CN110785161A - 用于改善皮肤外观的组合物和方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了低pH化妆品组合物和用于改善皮肤外观的方法。本文的低pH化妆品组合物包含糖类和任选的一种或多种附加护肤活性物质以改善皮肤的外观。较低的pH减少或甚至消除了与糖类诱导的糖化相关联的一些皮肤健康和外观缺陷。
Description
技术领域
本公开整体涉及提供皮肤健康和/或外观有益效果的美容方法及其组合物。更具体地讲,本公开涉及在低pH下利用核糖以提供皮肤有益效果而不导致糖化的方法和组合物。
背景技术
皮肤是抵抗环境侵害的第一道防线,否则会损害敏感的下层组织和器官。例如,皮肤在生物体与其环境之间保持相对水不可渗透的屏障以防止脱水。此外,皮肤在人的身体外观中起到关键作用。一般来讲,大多数人希望具有更年轻、看起来健康的皮肤。并且对于这些人中的一些人,诉说皮肤老化迹象,诸如皮肤变薄、皱纹和老年斑是年轻消失的不期望的暗示。因此,在讲究年轻(youth-conscious)的社会中,治疗皮肤老化迹象已成为急速发展的行业。治疗范围从美容霜膏和保湿剂到各种形式的美容手术。
已知许多天然和合成的试剂用于护肤组合物中,所述护肤组合物被市售以治疗各种皮肤状况,尤其是与老化相关联的那些。熟知的护肤剂的一个示例是核糖。核糖是在美容行业中用于提供多种皮肤健康有益效果的戊糖单糖。US 2007/0231288公开了在化妆品组合物中使用D-核糖以改善皮肤细胞的代谢,从而改善皮肤的功能和外观。US 6,638,519描述了糖诸如核糖在化妆品组合物中作为表面活性剂和保湿剂的用途。US 8,911,774公开了用于抗老化皮肤治疗的局部用组合物,其包括D核糖作为“用于DNA修复过程的基本材料”。
然而,糖诸如核糖也可通过糖化损害皮肤。糖化一般被认为是涉及单糖(例如,葡萄糖或核糖)的非酶促过程,该单糖经由一系列反应与氨基酸的氨基基团反应,所述一系列反应的特征在于晚期糖化终末产物(“AGE”)的形成。AGE可导致皮肤中的蛋白质,尤其是胶原和弹性蛋白的交联,其可表现为减少的皮肤弹性、细纹和皱纹、以及看起来灰黄的皮肤。还已知糖化随着年龄和暴露于紫外线辐射而有规律地增加。
因此,希望提供一种化妆品护肤组合物,其包含核糖但不有助于皮肤中的糖化。
发明内容
本文描述了用于美容治疗皮肤状况和/或改善外观的局部用护肤组合物。所述组合物包含掺入到皮肤病学可接受的载体中的约0.01%至约15%的糖类。所述组合物具有小于5.0的pH;所述组合物被配制成使得所述组合物中的糖类不会增加人类皮肤的胶原基质中的糖化。
还公开了使用本发明的低pH组合物的方法。所述方法包括识别皮肤的目标部分,在皮肤的目标部分中期望治疗并且在治疗期期间将本发明的化妆品组合物局部施用至皮肤的目标部分。对于所述组合物,治疗期应具有足够的长度,以改善目标皮肤部分的状况和/或外观。
附图说明
图1为示出各种pH下含核糖组合物的黄度差异的图表。
图2为示出各种pH下含核糖组合物的FLR差异的图表。
具体实施方式
糖类诸如核糖的皮肤健康有益效果是有据可查的,但由于它们在糖化中的显著作用,它们可能不适用于一些护肤组合物中。令人惊奇的是,现已发现当将糖类诸如核糖包含在处于相对较低pH下的局部用护肤组合物中时,皮肤的胶原基质中与糖类相关联的糖化可显著减少。
化妆品组合物通常被配制成具有略微酸性至略微碱性的pH(例如,pH 5.0至8.0),据信其改善组合物中的某些成分(例如烟酰胺、水杨酸酯和中和的增稠剂)的稳定性。然而,配制处于较低的pH下的护肤组合物(例如,小于pH 5.0、4.5、4.0、3.5、3.0,或甚至小于pH2.5)似乎减少了皮肤的胶原基质中与糖诸如核糖相关联的糖化。此外,酸性皮肤组合物还可以增强皮肤的酸性外膜,提供可被包含在组合物中的其它类型的皮肤试剂的柔韧性,和/或提供剥落有益效果。
说明书中对“实施方案”或类似方法的引用意指与该实施方案结合描述的具体材料、特征、结构、和/或特性包括在至少一个实施方案、任选多个实施方案中,但这并不意味所有实施方案包括所描述的材料、特征、结构、和/或特性。此外,材料、特征、结构、和/或特性可以任何合适的方式结合在不同的实施方案中,并且材料、特征、结构、和/或特性可以省略或替换所描述的。因此,除非另外说明或声明不相容性,否则尽管未在组合中明确地例示,本文所述的实施方案和方面可包括其它实施方案和/或方面的元件或组件或者可与其它实施方案和/或方面的元件或组件组合。
在所有实施方案中,除非另外特别说明,否则所有百分比均按所述化妆品组合物的重量计。除非另外特别说明,否则所有比率均为重量比。所有范围是包括端值在内的且可组合的。有效数字的数既不表达对所示量的限制,也不表达对测量精确性的限制。所有数值应理解为被词“约”修饰,除非另外特别指明。除非另外指明,否则所有测量均被理解为是在大约25℃和环境条件下进行的,其中“环境条件”是指在约1个大气压和约50%的相对湿度下的条件。所有数值范围均包括更窄的范围;所描述的范围上限和下限是可互换的,以进一步形成没有明确描述的范围。
本发明的组合物可包含本文所述的基本组分以及任选的成分,可基本上由其组成或由其组成。如本文所用,“基本上由...组成”是指组合物或组分可包含附加成分,只要附加成分不在本质上改变受权利要求书保护的组合物或方法的基本特征和新颖特征。如说明书和所附权利要求书中所用,除非上下文另外清楚地指明,否则单数形式“一个”、“一种”和“该(所述)”旨在也包括复数形式。
定义
如参照组合物所用的“施用(Apply或application)”意指将本发明的组合物施用或铺展到人类皮肤表面,诸如表皮上。
“化妆剂”意指旨在被擦涂、倾倒、喷洒、喷涂、引入或以其它方式施用于哺乳动物身体或其任何部位以提供美容效果的任何物质及其任何组分。化妆剂可包含通常被美国食品及药品管理局承认安全(GRAS)的物质、食品添加剂和用于非化妆消费品(包括非处方药物)的材料。
“有效量”是指足以在治疗期的过程内显著诱导对角质组织的积极有益效果的化合物或组合物的量。积极有益效果可为健康、外观和/或感觉有益效果,其包括独立的或组合的本文所公开的有益效果。
“色素沉着过度的”和“色素沉着过度的斑点”是指具有相对较高的黑素含量的皮肤的局部部分。色素沉着过度的斑点的示例包括但不限于老年斑、黑斑、黄褐斑、雀斑、发炎后色素沉着过度,日光诱导的色素沉着的瑕疵等。
“改善外观”是指在男性和/或女性皮肤外观中提供可测量的、期望的变化或有益效果,其可例如通过色素沉着过度的斑点的斑点面积分数的减小和/或灰黄皮肤的b*值的降低来量化。用于确定外观改善的示例性方法更详细地描述于下文中。
“L*a*b*”是指由国际照明委员会(“CIE”)规定的公认的颜色空间。三个坐标代表(i)色彩的亮度(即,L*=0产生黑色并且L*=100指示弥散白色),(ii)介于品红和绿色之间的颜色的位置(即,负a*值指示绿色而正a*值指示品红)和(iii)介于黄色和蓝色之间的颜色的位置(即,负b*值指示蓝色而正b*值指示黄色)。
如本文所用,“低pH”是指pH小于4.0但通常大于1.0的化妆品组合物。确定组合物的pH的合适方法在下文中更详细地描述。
“糖类”是指糖。本文的糖类可以是单糖、二糖、低聚糖、或多糖;糖酸;糖衍生物;或改性糖。
“安全有效量”是指成分的足够低以避免严重副作用(在合理的医学判断范围内)的有效量。
当涉及本文的皮肤外观时,“灰黄”是指就特定个体而言通常与不健康状态相关联的异常的黄色或苍白肤色。看起来灰黄的皮肤可以被客观地诊断(例如,利用色值,诸如L*或b*)或者主观地诊断(例如,通过护肤专业人员或消费者)。
“护肤”是指调节和/或改善皮肤状况。一些非限制性示例包括通过提供更光滑、更均匀的外观和/或感觉来改善皮肤外观和/或感觉;增加皮肤的一个或多个层的厚度;改善皮肤的弹性或回弹性;改善皮肤的紧致度;和减少皮肤的油性的、有光泽的、和/或无光泽的外观、改善皮肤的水合状态或保湿状态、改善细纹和/或皱纹的外观、改善皮肤剥落或脱屑、使皮肤丰满、改善皮肤阻隔性、改善肤色、减少发红或皮肤疹斑的外观、和/或改善皮肤的亮度、光彩、或半透明性。
“护肤活性物质”是指当施用于皮肤时,向皮肤或通常存在于其中的细胞类型提供即时和/或长久有益效果的化合物或化合物的组合。护肤活性物质可调节和/或改善皮肤或其相关细胞(例如,改善皮肤弹性、水合、皮肤屏障功能,和/或细胞代谢)。
“护肤组合物”是指包含护肤活性物质并且调节和/或改善皮肤状况的组合物。
“肤色”是基础皮肤颜色或颜色均匀度的总体外观。肤色通常特征在于较大的皮肤区域,其通常大于100mm2,直至并包括整个面部皮肤或其它身体皮肤表面(例如,臂部、腿部、背部、手部、颈部、胸部和腹部)。肤色可由图像分析测定。肤色的一种量度是亮度,其可通过L*a*b*色彩空间中的L*坐标(国际照明委员会)测量。发色团标测,诸如黑素标测和黑素浓度也可被用作肤色的指示。平均黑素可由发色团标测图数据进行计算。另外,肤色可与也可由发色团标测图数据计算的黑素均匀度(例如,标准偏差)相关。
如本文所用,“治疗期”是指将材料或组合物施用至目标皮肤表面的时间长度和/或频率。
“载体对照”是指与测试组合物相同的阴性对照,不同的是其确实包含所关注的特定活性物质(例如,不包含核糖)。
化妆品组合物
本文的化妆品组合物旨在局部施用至皮肤。本发明的组合物可用于治疗多种皮肤状况,诸如例如与炎症相关或由炎症引起的那些;日光损伤;老化(内在或外在);色素沉着过度(例如,老年斑);脂溢性角化病;光化性角化病;UV暴露;皮肤灰黄或发黄;皮肤暗淡;皮肤发红;皮脂分泌;粗糙纹理、皱纹、受损的皮肤屏障(例如,干燥的皮肤),接触性皮炎;特应性皮炎;湿疹;角质化障碍;牛皮癣;创伤愈合;等等。
本文的这些化妆品组合物包含有效量的合适的糖类诸如核糖(例如,D-核糖)和皮肤病学可接受的载体。本发明的组合物可任选地包含通常包含在化妆品护肤组合物中的一种或多种类型的皮肤活性物质。可适用于本文的糖类的非限制性示例包括三糖诸如甘油醛和二羟基丙酮;四糖,诸如赤藓糖、苏阿糖、赤藓酮糖;戊糖,诸如核糖、阿拉伯糖、核酮糖、木酮糖、木糖、来苏糖、脱氧核糖、二酮糖、核糖酸和核糖二酸(ribaric acid);己糖,诸如阿洛糖、阿卓糖、葡萄糖、半乳糖、甘露糖、果糖、艾杜糖、塔罗糖、阿洛酮糖、山梨糖、塔格糖、古洛糖、岩藻糖、鼠李糖、葡糖醛酸、醛糖、醛糖酸、葡糖二酸、gularic acid、半乳糖二酸、半乳糖醛酸;庚糖,诸如景天庚酮糖;壬糖,诸如神经氨酸,糖类衍生物,诸如5-磷酸核酮糖、5-磷酸木酮糖、5-磷酸核糖、7-磷酸景天庚酮糖、3-磷酸甘油醛、6-磷酸果糖、4-磷酸赤藓糖、6-磷酸葡萄糖、6-磷酸葡萄糖酸-δ-内酯、6-磷酸葡萄糖酸、磷酸二羟丙酮、1,6-二磷酸果糖;糖苷,例诸如木糖苷;木糖醇;海藻糖;以及改性的糖类,诸如N-乙酰葡糖胺、N-乙酰半乳糖胺和葡糖胺。尤其适用于本文的糖类是RIBOXYL牌核糖,其购自Lucas MeyerCosmetics(France)。糖类可以以按组合物的重量计介于0.05%和15%之间(例如,1%至15%,2%至10%,3%至8%或甚至4%至6%)存在。
本文的化妆品组合物被配制成具有相对较低的pH(例如,小于5.0、4.5、4.0、3.5、3.0、或甚至小于2.5),并且可以以各种产品形式提供,所述产品形式包括但不限于溶液、悬浮液、洗剂、霜膏、凝胶、爽肤水、条状物、喷剂、气溶胶、软膏、清洁液体洗剂和固体棒、糊剂、泡沫、摩丝、剃刮霜膏、擦拭物、条带、贴片、电动贴片、水凝胶、成膜产品、面膜和皮肤膜(具有和不具有不溶性片材)、化妆品诸如粉底、眼线膏和眼影等等。化妆品组合物形式可根据所选择的具体皮肤病学可接受的载体(如果存在于组合物中)确定。本文的化妆品组合物可使用制备此类组合物的常规方法来制备。
皮肤病学可接受的载体
本文的组合物包括皮肤病学可接受的载体(其可称为“载体”)。短语“皮肤病学可接受的载体”是指所述载体适于局部施用于角质组织,具有良好的美学性质,与所述组合物中的活性物质相容,并且不引起任何不合理的安全或毒性问题。在一个实施方案中,所述载体以按所述组合物的重量计约50%至约99%、约60%至约98%、约70%至约98%、或约80%至约95%的含量存在。
所述载体可为多种形式。在一些情况下,组分(例如提取物、防晒活性物质、附加组分)的溶解度或分散度可决定载体的形式和特征。非限制性示例包括简单溶液(例如水性的或无水的)、分散体、乳液、和固体形式(例如凝胶、条状物、可流动的固体、或无定形材料)。在某些实施方案中,皮肤病学可接受的载体为乳液的形式。乳液一般可分类为具有连续水相(例如,水包油和水包油包水)或连续油相(例如,油包水或水包油)。本发明的油相可包含硅油、非硅油(如烃油、酯、醚)、以及它们的混合物。水相通常包含水和水溶性成分(例如,水溶性保湿剂、调理剂、抗微生物剂、湿润剂和/或其它护肤活性物质)。然而,在一些情况中,水相可包含不是水的组分,该组分包括但不限于水溶性保湿剂、调理剂、抗微生物剂、湿润剂和/或其它水溶性护肤活性物质。在一些情况中,组合物的非水组分包括湿润剂,诸如甘油和/或其它多元醇。乳液还可包含基于载体的重量计例如约1%至约10%或约2%至约5%的乳化剂。乳化剂可为非离子型、阴离子型或阳离子型。一些合适的乳化剂公开于例如Dickert等人于1973年8月28日公布的美国专利3,755,560;Dixon等人于1983年12月20日公布的美国专利4,421,769;和McCutcheon的Detergents and Emulsifiers,北美版,第317-324页(1986)中,其各自以引用方式并入本文。
载体可包含一种或多种皮肤病学可接受的亲水性稀释剂。如本文所用,“稀释剂”包括材料,烟酰胺和/或糖类能够分散、溶解或以其他方式掺入该材料中。亲水性稀释剂包括水、有机亲水性稀释剂诸如低级一价醇(如C1-C4)和低分子量二醇和多元醇,包括丙二醇、聚乙二醇(如分子量200-600g/mol)、聚丙二醇(如分子量425-2025g/mol)、甘油、丁二醇、1,2,4-丁三醇、山梨醇酯、1,2,6-己三醇、乙醇、异丙醇、山梨醇酯、丁二醇、醚丙醇、乙氧基化醚、丙氧基化醚以及它们的组合。
增稠剂
在一些情况下,可能期望使用耐受较低pH范围的增稠剂(“稳定脂肪醇增稠剂”)。例如,中和的增稠剂可在较低的pH下降解,因此可不向所述组合物赋予期望的增稠或感觉特性。另一方面,脂肪醇增稠剂诸如鲸蜡醇和硬脂醇通常在低pH(例如,小于5.0的pH或甚至介于约2.5至约4.0之间的pH)下是稳定的,因此尤其适用于本文的低pH组合物中。因此,本发明的组合物可不含或基本上不含中和的增稠剂和/或可具有0.1%至10%(例如,约0.5%至约8%,约1.0%至约5%,或甚至约2%至约4%)的稳定脂肪醇增稠剂。
防晒活性物质
在一些情况下,可能期望在本发明的组合物中包含一种或多种防晒活性物质。本主题发明的组合物可包含一种或多种防晒活性物质(或防晒剂)和/或紫外线吸收剂。本文中,“防晒活性物质”包括防晒剂和物理防晒物两者。防晒活性物质和紫外线吸收剂可为有机或无机的。合适的防晒活性物质和紫外线吸收剂的示例作为“防晒剂”公开于PersonalCare Product Council的International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary andHandbook,第十三版中。尤其适宜的防晒活性物质为对甲氧基肉桂酸2-乙基己酯(可以以PARSOLTM MCX商购获得)、4,4'-叔丁基甲氧基联苯酰甲烷(可以以PARSOLTM 1789商购获得)、2-羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、辛基二甲基对氨基苯甲酸、二倍酰三油酸酯、2,2-二羟基-4-甲氧基二苯甲酮、乙基-4-(双(羟丙基))氨基苯甲酸酯、2-乙基己基-2-氰基-3,3-二苯基丙烯酸酯、2-乙基己基-水杨酸酯、甘油基对氨基苯甲酸酯、3,3,5-三甲基环己基水杨酸酯、邻氨基苯甲酸薄荷酯、对二甲基氨基苯甲酸或氨基苯甲酸酯、2-乙基己基对二甲基氨基苯甲酸酯、2-苯基苯并咪唑-5-磺酸、2-(对二甲基氨基苯基)-5-磺基苯并噁唑酸、氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯、氧化锌、亚苄基樟脑及其衍生物、二氧化钛、以及它们的混合物。所述组合物可包含按组合物的重量计约1%至约20%,或甚至约2%至约10%的防晒活性物质和/或紫外线吸收剂。确切的量将根据所选的防晒活性物质和/或紫外线吸收剂以及期望的防晒因子(SPF)而变化,并且在本领域技术人员的知识和判断范围内。
其它任选的成分
本发明的组合物可任选地包含一种或多种常用于化妆品组合物中的附加成分(例如,着色剂、护肤活性物质、抗炎剂、防晒剂、乳化剂、缓冲剂、流变改性剂、这些的组合等),前提条件是该附加成分不会不利地改变由本发明组合物提供的皮肤健康或外观有益效果。当掺入组合物中时,附加成分应该适用于与人类皮肤组织接触,而没有不适当的毒性、不相容性、不稳定性、变应性应答等等。附加活性物质的一些非限制性示例包括维生素、矿物质、肽和肽衍生物、糖胺、防晒剂、控油剂、微粒、类黄酮化合物、毛发生长调节剂、抗氧化剂和/或抗氧化剂前体、防腐剂、蛋白酶抑制剂、酪氨酸酶抑制剂、抗炎剂、保湿剂、剥落剂、亮肤剂、免晒美黑剂、润滑剂、抗痤疮活性物质、抗蜂窝炎活性物质、螯合剂、抗皱活性物质、抗萎缩活性物质、植物甾醇和/或植物激素、N-酰基氨基酸化合物、抗微生物剂和抗真菌剂。可适用于本文的附加成分和/或护肤活性物质的其它非限制性示例描述于美国公布2002/0022040;2003/0049212;2004/0175347;2006/0275237;2007/0196344;2008/0181956;2008/0206373;2010/00092408;2008/0206373;2010/0239510;2010/0189669;2010/0272667;2011/0262025;2011/0097286;2012/0197016;2012/0128683;2012/0148515;2012/0156146;和2013/0022557;以及美国专利5,939,082;5,872,112;6,492,326;6,696,049;6,524,598;5,972,359;和6,174,533中。
当在本文组合物中包含任选成分时,可能期望选择在低pH下不与组合物中的其它成分形成复合物或以其他方式不期望地与组合物中的其他成分相互作用的成分,尤其是pH敏感成分如烟酰胺、水杨酸酯和肽。在一些情况下,可能期望选择经由不同生物学途径起作用的护肤活性物质,使得所述活性物质不相互干扰,这种相互干扰可降低两种试剂的功效。当存在时,所述任选成分可以以按所述组合物的重量计0.0001%至50%;0.001%至20%;或甚至0.01%至10%(例如50%、40%、30%、20%、10%、5%、4%、3%、2%、1%、0.5%或0.1%)的量被包含。
使用方法
本发明的方法包括鉴定需要处理的皮肤的目标部分(例如,面部皮肤表面诸如前额、口周、下巴、眶周、鼻部和/或面颊),并且将包含糖类(例如,核糖)和任选的一种或多种附加护肤剂的低pH组合物施用至皮肤的目标部分。在一些情况下,皮肤的目标部分可具有灰黄肤色或表现出一些其它不期望的皮肤状况。在一些情况下,皮肤的目标部分可能看起来不会遭受皮肤状况,诸如与糖化效应相关联的皮肤状况,但是如果它是日后通常表现出不期望的糖化效应或一些其他皮肤状况的部分(例如,通常不被衣服覆盖的皮肤表面,诸如面部皮肤表面、手部和臂部皮肤表面、脚部和腿部皮肤表面、以及颈部和胸部皮肤表面),则使用者(例如,相对年轻的使用者)仍可能希望靶向此类皮肤区域。这样,本发明的组合物可以以预防性能力使用。所述组合物可以在治疗期期间施用至目标皮肤部分,并且如果需要,施用至周围皮肤每天至少一次、每天两次、或以每天更频繁的方式。当每天两次地施用时,第一次与第二次施用相隔至少1至12个小时。通常,所述组合物可在早上和/或晚上临睡觉前施用。当根据本文的方法使用时,本发明的组合物可改善皮肤状况的外观而不导致糖化。
治疗期理想地为存在于低pH组合物中的皮肤活性物质改善皮肤的目标部分的外观的足够时间。在一些情况下,本文含糖类的低pH组合物例如在与载体对照相比时甚至可减少糖化。治疗期可持续至少1周(例如,约2周、4周、8周或甚至12周)。在一些情况下,治疗期将延长至多个月(即,3至12个月)或多年。在一些情况下,组合物可在至少2周、4周、8周或12周的治疗期期间,在一周中的大多数时间(例如,每周至少4天、5天或6天)施用每天至少一次或甚至每天两次。
施用组合物的步骤可通过局部施用来实现。关于组合物的施用,术语“局部的”、“局部”、“局部地”意指将组合物递送到目标区域(例如,色素沉着过度的斑点或其部分)而使对不期望治疗的皮肤表面的递送最小化。组合物可施用至并且轻轻揉进区域皮肤中。组合物或皮肤病学可接受的载体的形式应被选择成有利于局部施用。虽然本文的某些实施方案设想将组合物局部施用到某一区域,但应当理解,本文的组合物可更全面地或广泛地施用到一个或多个皮肤表面。在某些实施方案中,本文的组合物可用作多步美容方案的一部分,其中本发明的组合物可在一种或多种其它组合物之前和/或之后施用。
晚期糖化终末产物测定
AGE测定提供了确定受试试剂如何影响糖化的体外方法。具体地讲,可在特定pH下将糖类施用至明胶,所述明胶用作胶原的替代物(即,高平均分子质量的不均匀混合物,存在于胶原中的水溶性蛋白),并且通过分光光度计检测所得的AGE。当将糖类诸如核糖添加到样品中时,其以与胶原反应的非常相同的方式与明胶中的蛋白质发生反应,以产生AGE。分光光度计检测到与所得AGE相关联的荧光强度(“FLR”)或黄度(b*),然后可将其与皮肤中发生的糖化的量相关联。较低的b*和FLR值对应于较少的AGE,因此对应于较少的糖化。
以250μl/孔的总体积在96孔板(例如,FALCON牌96孔组织培养板或等同物)中制备每个测试样品的三次平行测定。将包含测试样品的板置于标准细胞培养培养箱(例如,购自Fisher Scientific(Waltham,MA)的THERMO SCIENTIFIC FORMA牌培养箱或等同物)中,并且在37℃下用5%CO2和95%相对湿度培养达测试的持续时间。荧光强度和黄度在测试开始时测量(时间=0),并且一般每天监测,除了周末。为了测量FLR或b*,将含有测试样品的板从培养箱中取出并置于SPECTRAMAX Plus牌分光光度计(购自Molecular Devices(Sunnyvale,California)或等同物)中。为了检测荧光强度(“FLR”),分光光度计设定为400/465nm(ex/em)。为了检测黄度(b*),分光光度计被设定成以10nm增量收集350nm至750nm的吸收光谱。来自黄度测量的吸收光谱通过使用合适的转换软件的计算机随后被转换为L*a*b*值。
通过比较取样时间点处的孔的FLR与时间=0处的初始FLR来确定荧光强度的变化(“ΔFLR”)。通过比较时间=0处的初始b*值与所关注的时间点处的b*值来确定特定时间点处的黄度(“Δb*”)的变化。
实施例
在pH(即pH 6.8、5、4.5、4、3.5和2.5)范围内测定对于含核糖的组合物而言pH对糖化的影响。对于每个测试组以1ml体积一式三份制备测试样品,以适应小体积pH滴定方法所需的阈值体积。每1毫升体积的样品使用450μL的2%w/v明胶溶液(以目录号G1393购自Sigma),100μl的25.9%w/v核糖溶液(购自Sigma,目录号R7500-25G),以及足够量的Dulbecco’s磷酸盐缓冲盐水(“DPBS”)(购自Gibco’s)的组合以使样品体积达到1ml来制备。使用1N HCl将样品的pH调节至所需的水平。在对于每个治疗组一式三份制备1ml批次后,将来自每个批次的250ul递送至96孔板上的每个孔。对于2.59%w/v的核糖浓度,每个孔应含有112.5ul的2%明胶,10ul的25.9%w/v核糖溶液,和127.5ul的PBS/1N HCl。载体对照包含112.5μl明胶和137.5μl DPBS,并且具有6.7的未调节的pH。
根据上述AGE测定,测定每个测试样品的本实施例中的平均ΔFLR和Δb*。测试的持续时间为38天。每个测试样本的pH示于表1中。将组合物A用作阳性对照,并且组合物V为载体对照。该测试的结果总结于下表2至7中。31天的结果示于图1和图2中。
表1
表2
表3
表4
表5
表6
表7
用作阳性对照的组合物A显示出如所预期的随时间推移的FLR和黄度的持续增加。组合物B显示出在20、31和38天时的FLR增加,但仅显示出在31和38天时的黄度的增加。但甚至在20天时,相对于阴性对照(即组合物V),组合物B的黄度降低显著改善。组合物C、D、E和F表现出与pH降低相对应的荧光和黄度降低的趋势。令人惊奇的是,组合物D、E和F相对于载体对照甚至显示出b*的改善(即,降低),这表明糖类诸如核糖实际上可用于在较低pH下对抗糖化的某些方面。因此,重要的是在较低的pH下配制包含糖类诸如核糖的护肤组合物,以避免或甚至抵抗糖化的不期望效应。因此,当根据所述方法使用时,本发明的组合物可减少皮肤中AGE和/或黄度的存在。
本文所公开的量纲和值不应理解为严格限于所引用的精确数值。相反,除非另外指明,否则每个此类量纲旨在表示所述值以及围绕该值功能上等同的范围。例如,公开为“40mm”的量纲旨在表示“约40mm”。
除非明确排除或以其它方式限制,否则本文中引用的每一篇文献,包括任何交叉引用或相关专利或专利申请以及本申请对其要求优先权或其有益效果的任何专利申请或专利,均据此全文以引用方式并入本文。对任何文献的引用不是对其作为与所公开的本发明或本文受权利要求书保护的任何内容相关的现有技术的认可,或不是对其自身或与任何一个或多个其他参考文献的任何组合提出、建议或公开了任何此类发明的认可。此外,当本文献中术语的任何含义或定义与以引用方式并入的文献中相同术语的任何含义或定义矛盾时,应当服从在本文献中赋予该术语的含义或定义。
虽然已举例说明和描述了本发明的具体实施方案,但是对于本领域技术人员来说显而易见的是,在不脱离本发明的实质和范围的情况下可作出多个其它变化和修改。因此,本文旨在于所附权利要求中涵盖属于本发明范围内的所有此类变化和修改。
Claims (12)
1.一种局部用护肤组合物,所述局部用护肤组合物包含:
a)0.01%至15%的糖类;和
b)皮肤病学可接受的载体,其中所述组合物具有小于5.0的pH。
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其中所述糖类选自甘油醛、二羟基丙酮、赤藓糖、苏阿糖、赤藓酮糖、核糖、阿拉伯糖、核酮糖、木酮糖、木糖、来苏糖、脱氧核糖、二酮糖、核糖酸、核糖二酸、阿洛糖、阿卓糖、葡萄糖、半乳糖、甘露糖、果糖、艾杜糖、塔罗糖、阿洛酮糖、山梨糖、塔格糖、古洛糖、岩藻糖、鼠李糖、葡糖醛酸、醛糖、醛糖酸、葡糖二酸、gularic acid、半乳糖二酸、半乳糖醛酸、景天庚酮糖、神经氨酸、5-磷酸核酮糖、5-磷酸木酮糖、5-磷酸核糖、7-磷酸景天庚酮糖、3-磷酸甘油醛、6-磷酸果糖、4-磷酸赤藓糖、6-磷酸葡萄糖、6-磷酸葡萄糖酸-δ-内酯、配糖体、6-磷酸葡萄糖酸、磷酸二羟丙酮、1,6-二磷酸果糖、N-乙酰葡糖胺、N-乙酰半乳糖胺、葡糖胺,以及它们的组合。
3.根据权利要求2所述的组合物,其中所述糖类为核糖。
4.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述pH为4.5或更小,优选介于2.5和4.0之间。
5.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,所述组合物还包含0.1%至10%,优选1%至5%的稳定脂肪醇增稠剂,所述稳定脂肪醇增稠剂选自鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇,以及它们的组合。
6.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,所述组合物还包含至少一种附加护肤活性物质,所述附加护肤活性物质选自维生素、矿物质、肽、糖胺、防晒剂、控油剂、类黄酮化合物、抗氧化剂、蛋白酶抑制剂、酪氨酸酶抑制剂、抗炎剂、保湿剂、剥落剂、亮肤剂、抗痤疮剂、抗皱剂、植物甾醇、N-酰基氨基酸化合物、抗微生物剂、抗真菌剂,以及它们的组合。
7.根据权利要求6所述的组合物,所述组合物还包含约0.01%至约15%的烟酰胺。
8.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述组合物在晚期糖化终末产物(AGE)测定中相对于载体对照不增加糖化。
9.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述组合物在所述AGE测定中相对于载体对照不增加b*值。
10.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物,其中所述组合物在所述AGE测定中相对于载体对照不增加荧光强度值。
11.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的组合物用于美容处理皮肤状况而不增加胶原中的糖化的用途。
12.根据权利要求1至10中任一项所述的组合物用于减少胶原中糖类诱导的糖化的用途。
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US20200253851A1 (en) | 2020-08-13 |
US20180369110A1 (en) | 2018-12-27 |
US11110049B2 (en) | 2021-09-07 |
EP3641725A1 (en) | 2020-04-29 |
JP2021102655A (ja) | 2021-07-15 |
WO2018237218A1 (en) | 2018-12-27 |
US10660838B2 (en) | 2020-05-26 |
JP2020524146A (ja) | 2020-08-13 |
CN110785161B (zh) | 2023-06-20 |
JP6997222B2 (ja) | 2022-01-17 |
CN114788791A (zh) | 2022-07-26 |
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