JP6403412B2 - アッパー - Google Patents
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- JP6403412B2 JP6403412B2 JP2014077437A JP2014077437A JP6403412B2 JP 6403412 B2 JP6403412 B2 JP 6403412B2 JP 2014077437 A JP2014077437 A JP 2014077437A JP 2014077437 A JP2014077437 A JP 2014077437A JP 6403412 B2 JP6403412 B2 JP 6403412B2
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
- A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
- A43B1/04—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/0265—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions
- A43B23/027—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions with a part of the upper particularly flexible, e.g. permitting articulation or torsion
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/0265—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions
- A43B23/0275—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form having different properties in different directions with a part of the upper particularly rigid, e.g. resisting articulation or torsion
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/01—Surface features
- D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
- D10B2403/0114—Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
- D10B2403/022—Lofty fabric with variably spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
- D10B2403/024—Fabric incorporating additional compounds
- D10B2403/0241—Fabric incorporating additional compounds enhancing mechanical properties
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/03—Shape features
- D10B2403/032—Flat fabric of variable width, e.g. including one or more fashioned panels
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
Description
本発明において使用されるニットウェアは、一方の緯編み編成布および単糸経編み編成布と、他方の多重糸経編み編成布とに区分される。ニットウェア特有の特徴は、インターロック編み糸ループから形成される点である。これらの糸ループは、ステッチとも呼ばれ、1つまたは複数の糸から形成され得る。
さらに、三次元(3D)ニットウェアが、緯編み機および経編み機において、特に平編み機において製造可能である。これは、空間構造を備えるニットウェアであるが、単一プロセスで緯編みまたは経編みされる。三次元緯編み技術または三次元経編み技術により、シームを用いずに空間ニットウェアを製造すること、一体でのおよび単一プロセスでの切断または製造が、可能となる。
ニットウェアおよび特に緯編み編成布は、広範な機能的特性を備えることが可能であり、本発明において有利に使用され得る。
本発明のニットウェアに対して使用される糸は、繊維を通常含む。上記で説明したように、長さに対してその太さが細い可撓性構造物は、繊維と呼ばれる。使用に関して事実上無制限の長さを有する非常に長い繊維は、フィラメントと呼ばれる。繊維は、紡績されてまたは撚り合わされて、糸になる。しかし、繊維は、長いものも可能であり、回転されて糸になる。繊維は、天然材料または合成材料から構成され得る。天然繊維は、堆肥化可能であるため、環境に優しい。天然繊維には、例えば綿、羊毛、アルパカ毛、麻、ココナッツ繊維、または絹などが含まれる。合成繊維には、Nylon(商標)、ポリエステル、エラステイン、もしくはスパンデックスなどのそれぞれのポリマーベース繊維、または従来的な繊維としてもしくは高性能繊維もしくは工業技術繊維として生産され得るKevlar(商標)がある。
フラワを有する多角形断面711、例えば亜麻、
重畳部分を有する楕円〜円形断面712、例えば羊毛、
拡張および巻込みを伴う平坦状の楕円断面713、例えば綿、
部分的細溝を有する円形鋸歯断面714、例えばレーヨン、
ライ豆断面720、平滑表面、
鋸歯ライ豆断面721、例えばAvril(商標)レーヨン、
丸みエッジを有する三角形断面722、例えば絹、
三葉星形断面723、光沢性のより高い外観を有する三角形繊維など、
部分的細溝を有するこん棒状断面724、キラキラと輝く外観、例えばアセテート、
平坦状および幅広の断面731、例えば別設計のアセテート、
星形またはコンサーティーナ断面732、
中空中心を有する座屈チューブの形状の断面733、および
空部を有する正方形断面734、例えばAnsoIV(商標)ナイロン。
アラミド繊維:摩耗および有機溶剤に対する良好な耐性、非導電性、最大500℃までの耐熱性、
パラアラミド繊維:Kevlar(商標)、Techova(商標)、およびTwaron(商標)の商標名で知られているもの、優れた強度−重量特性、高いヤング率および高い引張強度(メタアラミドを上回る)、低い伸縮性および低い破断点伸び(約3.5%)、着色の困難さ、
メタアラミド:Numex(商標)、Teijinconex(商標)、New Star(商標)、X−Fiper(商標)の商標名で知られているもの、
ダイニーマ繊維:あらゆる公知の熱可塑性プラスチックの中で最高の衝撃強度、腐食性化学薬品(酸化性酸を除く)に対する高い耐性、極めて低い吸湿性、nylon(商標)およびアセテートよりも著しく低くTeflonと同等の非常に低い摩擦係数、自己潤滑性、摩耗に対する高い耐性(炭素鋼に比べて15倍の高さの耐摩耗性)、無毒性、
炭素繊維:炭素原子から実質的に構成された直径約0.005〜0.010mmの極細繊維、サイズに関して高い安定性、1つの糸が数千の炭素繊維から形成される、高い引張強度、軽量、低い熱膨張率、伸縮または曲げに対して非常に強い、熱伝導性および電気伝導性、
ガラス繊維:高い表面積−重量比、空気を内部に捕獲することによりガラス繊維ブロックが良好な断熱性を実現、0.05W/(m×K)の熱伝導性、繊維がより細いほど延性がより高いことにより最細繊維が最も高い強度を有する、ガラスがアモルファス構造を有することによりガラス繊維の特性は繊維に沿っておよび断面にわたって同一となる、繊維の曲げ直径と繊維直径との相関性、断熱性、電気絶縁性、防音性、炭素繊維に比べてより高い破断点伸縮性。
複数の異なる糸が、本発明において使用されるニットウェアを製造するために使用され得る。既に定義したように、直径に対してその長さが長い1つまたは複数の繊維からなる構造物を、糸と呼ぶ。
緯編みニットウェアまたは経編みニットウェアは、その構造により、織成布帛材料よりも大幅に高い可撓性および伸縮性を有する。したがって、例えば本発明によるアッパーまたはソールの特定の領域などにおける特定の適用および要件のために、可撓性および伸縮性を低下させて十分な安定性を実現することが必要となる。
既に定義したように、モノフィラメントは、単一フィラメントすなわち単一繊維から構成された糸である。したがって、モノフィラメントの伸縮性は、多数の繊維から製造された糸の伸縮性よりも大幅に低い。また、このことにより、モノフィラメントから製造されるかまたはモノフィラメントを含む、および本発明において使用される、ニットウェアの伸縮性が低下する。
前章で説明された2つの層を有する緯編み編成布は、さらに、「ポリマーコーティング」の章で既に説明したようなポリマーコーティングによって補強することが可能である。このポリマー材料は、モノフィラメントから作製された緯編み層に対して適用される。これを行う際に、ポリマー材料は、モノフィラメントが非常に平滑かつ丸い表面を有するため、モノフィラメントの材料(例えばポリアミド材料)に対して連結せず、下に位置する第1の糸(例えばポリエステル糸)の第1の層に実質的に浸透する。したがって、後のプレス時に、ポリマー材料は、第1の層の糸に融着し、第1の層を補強する。この実施において、ポリマー材料は、第1の層の第1の糸および第2の層のモノフィラメントよりも低い融点を有する。プレス時の温度は、ポリマー材料のみが溶融し、モノフィラメントまたは第1の糸は溶融しないように、選択される。
追加的にまたは代替的には、補強と伸縮性の低減とを目的として、本発明により使用されるニットウェアの糸は、プレス後にニットウェアを固定する溶着糸であることも可能である。実質的に3つのタイプの溶着糸が、すなわち非熱可塑性糸により囲まれた熱可塑性糸、熱可塑性糸で囲まれた非熱可塑性糸、および熱可塑性材料の純溶着糸が存在する。熱可塑性糸と非熱可塑性糸との間の結合を向上させるために、非熱可塑性糸の表面をテクスチャー化することが可能である。
例えばアッパーおよび/またはソールなどにおいて本発明のために使用されるニットウェアを補強するためのさらなる1つの可能性は、熱可塑性布帛の使用である。これは、熱可塑性織成布または熱可塑性ニットウェアである。熱可塑性布帛は、熱を受けると少なくとも部分的に溶融し、冷却することにより剛化する。例えば、熱可塑性布帛は、ニットウェアを備えることができるアッパーまたはソールの表面に対して、例えば圧力および熱の印加などにより、適用することができる。冷却することにより、熱可塑性布帛は、剛化し、例えばその熱可塑性布帛が配置された領域においてアッパーまたはソールを特定的に補強する。
図9は、本発明によるアッパー51の第1の実施形態を示す。アッパー51は、ニットウェアから完全にまたは部分的に製造され得る。「ニットウェア」の章で説明されるように、ニットウェアは、緯編み機または経編み機で製造され得る。ニットウェアに加えて、アッパー51は、例えば織成布などの他の布帛と、例えばプラスチック、レザー、または金属などから作製された紐環などの非布帛要素とを備えてもよい。
11 緯編み編成布
12 緯編み編成布
13 経編み編成布
14 レッグ
15 フィラー糸
21 トリコット編み、トリコット編みの交絡
22 2×1平編み、2×1平編みの交絡
23 アトラス編み、アトラス編みの交絡
24 糸
31 ウェール
32 コース
41 ラッチニードル
42 可動ラッチ
43 フック
44 糸
45 ステッチ
51 アッパー
52 布帛領域
53 布帛領域
54 シーム
55 シーム
61 シューソール
62 接着テープ
80 二層ニットウェア
81 正面図
82 背面図
83 第1の緯編み層
84 第2の緯編み層
85 ステッチ
91a 第1の部分領域
91b 第1の部分領域
91c 第1の部分領域
91d 第1の部分領域
91e 第1の部分領域
92a 第2の部分領域
92b 第2の部分領域
92c 第2の部分領域
92d 第2の部分領域
92e 第2の部分領域
93 長手方向軸
101 ゾーン
102 ゾーン
103 ゾーン
104 第五趾
105 第一趾
111 足首
112 ゾーン
121 第1の部分領域
122 第2の部分領域
710 円形断面
711 フラワを有する多角形断面
712 重畳部分を有する楕円〜円形断面
713 拡張および巻込みを伴う平坦状の楕円断面
714 部分的細溝を有する円形鋸歯断面
720 ライ豆断面
721 鋸歯ライ豆断面
722 丸みエッジを有する三角形断面
723 三葉星形断面
724 部分的細溝を有するこん棒状断面
730 骨形状断面
731 平坦状および幅広の断面
732 星形またはコンサーティーナ断面
733 中空中心を有する座屈チューブの形状の断面
734 空部を有する正方形断面
Claims (16)
- シューズ用のアッパー(51)であって、
a.一体のニットウェアとして製造された、少なくとも1つの第1の部分領域(91a、91c)および少なくとも1つの第2の部分領域(92a、92c)を備え、
b.前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)は、第1の糸を含み、前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)は、第2の糸を含み、
c.前記第1の糸は、前記第2の糸よりも高い弾性を有しており、
d.前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)の外形は、前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)の外形に沿っており、前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)及び前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)は、前記アッパー(51)の長手方向軸(93)に対して交差する方向において、前記アッパー(51)の甲領域をわたって延在する、アッパー(51)。 - 前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)および前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)は、前記シューズの着用時に、前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)が前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)よりも伸張されるように配置される、請求項1に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記ニットウェアは緯編みされる、請求項1または2に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記ニットウェアは経編みされる、請求項1または2に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)および前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)は、相互に対して平行に延在する、請求項1から4のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)および前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)は、前記アッパーの前記長手方向軸(93)に対して交差するように延在する、請求項1から5のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)および前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)は、前記アッパー(51)の中足部領域の外側もしくは内側にまたは両側に配置される、請求項1から6のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記第1の部分領域(91b、91c)は、前記アッパー(51)の足首領域にまたは甲領域にも配置される、請求項1から7のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)および前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)は、前記アッパー(51)の長手方向軸(93)の周囲に対称的に配置される、請求項1から8のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記第1の糸は、エラステインまたはゴムを含む、請求項1から9のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記ニットウェアは、モノフィラメントをさらに含む、請求項1から10のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記ニットウェアは、溶着糸をさらに含む、請求項1から11のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)または前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)または両部分領域(91a、91c、92a、92c)は、インタルジア編み技術またはジャカード織り技術において緯編みされる、請求項1から12のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 前記アッパー(51)は、着用者の足を少なくとも部分的に囲み、前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)または前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)または両部分領域は、ソールの領域に少なくとも部分的に配置される、請求項1から13のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)。
- 請求項1から14のいずれか一項に記載のアッパー(51)を備える、シューズ。
- 請求項1から14のいずれか一項に記載のアッパーを製造する方法であって、少なくとも1つの第1の部分領域(91a、91c)および少なくとも1つの第2の部分領域(92a、92c)を一体ニットウェアとして製造するステップを含み、前記第1の部分領域(91a、91c)は、第1の糸を含み、前記第2の部分領域(92a、92c)は、第2の糸を含み、前記第1の糸は、前記第2の糸よりも高い弾性を有する、方法。
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