US2467237A - Method of making boots from knitted tubular stock - Google Patents

Method of making boots from knitted tubular stock Download PDF

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Publication number
US2467237A
US2467237A US655144A US65514446A US2467237A US 2467237 A US2467237 A US 2467237A US 655144 A US655144 A US 655144A US 65514446 A US65514446 A US 65514446A US 2467237 A US2467237 A US 2467237A
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Prior art keywords
boot
blank
knitted
tubing
making
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US655144A
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Roy E Sherman
Ludwig P Hanson
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MISHAWAKA RUBBER
WOOLEN Manufacturing Co
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MISHAWAKA RUBBER
WOOLEN Manufacturing Co
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/04Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B1/00Footwear characterised by the material
    • A43B1/02Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
    • A43B1/023Animal fibres
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B3/00Footwear characterised by the shape or the use
    • A43B3/02Boots covering the lower leg
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D3/00Lasts
    • A43D3/02Lasts for making or repairing shoes
    • A43D3/023Hinge constructions for articulated lasts

Definitions

  • Our invention relates to boots and a method of making same, and has reference more particularly to a construction and method wherein the boot is made from an initially straight tubular section.
  • Boots of the character to which this invention relates are usually made of knitted material, a blank therefor being knitted in substantially the shape of the boot but in a very large size, somewhat like a large knitted sock, and then fulled and shrunk to the required boot size, thus compacting the material into a thickened, dense felt-like mass, after which the sole, heel, fastenings, and reinforcings are applied to form the completed boot.
  • the principal objects of our invention are to simplify and facilitate the making of knitted wool boots; to utilize straight tubular stock for making the blanks from which the boots are made: and to produce a knitted wool boot more economically than heretofore and which is as serviceable as those heretofore produced, these and other objects being accomplished as more fully pointed out hereinafter and as shown in the accompanying drawing in which,
  • Fig. l is a side view of the blank employed for making the boot and showing fragmentarily in dotted lines a length of stock from which the blank is cut;
  • Fig. 2 is an end view of the open end of the boot blank
  • Fig. 3 is a side view of the adjustable form on which the blank, after fulling and shrinking, is shaped into the boot form, the form being shown in the straightened out position and the blank being shown in dotted lines thereon;
  • Fig. 4 is a similar view of the form adjusted to the boot shape and showing the foot formed blank thereon in dotted lines, and
  • Fig. 5 is a side view of the completed boot.
  • the knitted tube is cut into suitable lengths ior making the boots, such as the length between the lines l2 and I3, and then each length is stitched around one end, as indicated at I4 in suitable shape to form the toe of the finished boot and the surplus material trimmed off beyond the stitching along the line l5, which latter trimming operation may be performed simultaneously with the stitching by a suitable trimming device attached to and operable conjointly with the stitching machine as is wel] known in the art.
  • the stitching extends along the sides of the tube substantially beyond the ends I6 of the trimmed edge l5, as indicated at ll, so as to avoid any possibility of breaking open of the stitching at these ends in the subsequent manufacturing operations or in the use of the boot, and thus a secure connection is assured and the seam portion is so completely incorporated in the structure in the subsequent operations that it substantially disappears and becomes invisible.
  • the blank is turned insidev out so that the edge of the seam is at the inside and then the blank is fulled and shrunk to the size required for the boot.
  • This fulling and shrinking is performed by lling a wooden tub containing dilute sulphuiic acid with these blanks I0, all turned inside out as aforesaid, and beating them in this sulphurlc acid bath, this being an operation that is well known in the art and the same operation that has appearance thereof is changed to that of a densely compacted felt of appreciably greater thick-- ness than the original knitted material.
  • the blank is then steamed so that the bres are pliable, and after steaming it is placed on a form on which it is stretched and shaped in the boot shape.
  • This form is of a semicollapsible type which may be adjusted to an elongated form as shown in Fig. 3 to facilitate application of the straight shrunken blank Iii thereon, after which it is adjusted to the foot shape form of Fig. 4 to stretch and shape the blank as required for the boot.
  • this form is made with front and rear leg portions I8 and I9 respectively, properly shaped or rounded to correspond substantially to the front and rear of the leg and connected by spaced links 2li and 2
  • the instep and toe portion 22 may be adjusted to project upwardly as shown in Fig. 3 to facilitate application thereon of the shrunken and steamed blank I which is then pulled down thereon as indicated by the dotted lines at III in Fig. 3, it being desirable in this operation of applying the blank I0 to arrange the blank thereon so that the seam produced by the stitching I'd extends transversely across the toe of the form so that in the finished boot it will lie in a plane substantially parallel with the bottom of the boot.
  • the form is then adjusted to the normal foot shape of Fig. 4, this being preferably accomplished by a machine which engages the outer ends of the leg portions IB and I9 and relatively adjusts same so as to force the angle and toe portion 22 of the form to the 90 degree position of Fig. 4, and thereby stretch and shape the blank to the required boot shape as indicated by dotted lines at IIJ in Fig. 4.
  • the blank After the blank is dried and set on the Fig. 4 form in the required boot shape, it is removed from the form and the counter strip 25 and counter 26 secured thereon, also the sole 2l' and heel 28, and it is slitted down the front and provided with the usual closing means, su-ch as eyelets 29 and lace 3D, all in the same manner as in previous felt boots of this type.
  • the method of making a boot of the class described comprises providing substantially straight seamless knitted woolen tube stock of substantially uniform circumferential size throughout its length, cutting from said stock a length of tubing suitable for the boot and stitching a seam arcuately across one open end thereof to form a conveXly rounded closure across said end, then shrinking said closed end tubing and thereby thickening and compacting the knitted woolen wall thereof, and thereafter deforming and permanently shaping a seamless portion of said tubing from the straight tubular form thereof into angular composite heel, ankle and instep form with the seamed end of the tubing localized in the toe portion of the boot.
  • the method of making a boot of the class described comprises providing substantially straight seamless knitted woolen tube stock of substantially uniform circumferential size throughout its length, cutting from said stock a length of tubing suitable for the boot and stitching and trimming a seam arcuately across one open end thereof to form a con- Vexly rounded closure across said end, then turning the closed end tubing inside out, then shrinking said closed end tubing and thereby thickening and compacting the knitted woolen wall thereof, and thereafter deforming and permanently shaping a seamless portion of said tubing from the straight tubular form thereof into angular composite heel, ankle and instep form with the seamed end of the tubing localized in the toe portion of the boot.
  • the method of making a boot of the class described comprises providing substantially straight seamless knitted woolen tube stock of substantially uniform circumferential size throughout its length, cutting from said stock a length of tubing suitable for the boot and stitching and trimming a seam arcuately across one open end thereof to form a convexly rounded closure across said end, then turning the closed end tub-ing inside out, then shrinking said closed end tubing and thereby thickening and compacting the knitted woolen wall thereof, and thereafter deforming and permanently shaping a seamless portion of said tubing from the straight tubular form thereof into angular composite heel, ankle and instep form with the seam at lthe end of the tubing localized and embedded in and extending transversely across the toe portion of the boot.

Description

April 12, 1949. R E. SHERMAN ETAL METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS FROM KNITTED TUBULAR STOCK mea March 18, 194e INVENTORS. effizcz?? f 76228022 Patented Apr. 12, 1949 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE METHOD OF MAKING BOOTS FROM KNITTED TUBULAR STOCK Application March 18, 1946, Serial No. 655,144
4 Claims. 1
Our invention relates to boots and a method of making same, and has reference more particularly to a construction and method wherein the boot is made from an initially straight tubular section.
Boots of the character to which this invention relates are usually made of knitted material, a blank therefor being knitted in substantially the shape of the boot but in a very large size, somewhat like a large knitted sock, and then fulled and shrunk to the required boot size, thus compacting the material into a thickened, dense felt-like mass, after which the sole, heel, fastenings, and reinforcings are applied to form the completed boot.
The making of such blanks is relatively slow, however, because of the sock shape or boot form in which each blank is knitted, and moreover, quite complicated knitting machines are required to knit the blanks in the boot form with the foot portion knitted at an angle to the leg portion and closed at the toe.
The principal objects of our invention are to simplify and facilitate the making of knitted wool boots; to utilize straight tubular stock for making the blanks from which the boots are made: and to produce a knitted wool boot more economically than heretofore and which is as serviceable as those heretofore produced, these and other objects being accomplished as more fully pointed out hereinafter and as shown in the accompanying drawing in which,
Fig. l is a side view of the blank employed for making the boot and showing fragmentarily in dotted lines a length of stock from which the blank is cut;
Fig. 2 is an end view of the open end of the boot blank;
Fig. 3 is a side view of the adjustable form on which the blank, after fulling and shrinking, is shaped into the boot form, the form being shown in the straightened out position and the blank being shown in dotted lines thereon;
Fig. 4 is a similar view of the form adjusted to the boot shape and showing the foot formed blank thereon in dotted lines, and
Fig. 5 is a side view of the completed boot.
in making a boot in accordance with the present invention, no sock shaped blank is required, butinstead the material-from which the boot is to be made is knitted in continuous straight tubular form, a fragmentary portion of the length thereof being represented in Fig. 1 by the full line portion Ill and the dotted line extensions Il thereof, a coarse Wool yarn being employed and the material knitted in sufficiently large tubular form so that blanks cut therefrom, when fulled and shrunk, as hereinafter explained, will be of the proper size for the boot that is to be made therefrom.
Thereafter the knitted tube is cut into suitable lengths ior making the boots, such as the length between the lines l2 and I3, and then each length is stitched around one end, as indicated at I4 in suitable shape to form the toe of the finished boot and the surplus material trimmed off beyond the stitching along the line l5, which latter trimming operation may be performed simultaneously with the stitching by a suitable trimming device attached to and operable conjointly with the stitching machine as is wel] known in the art.
Preferably the stitching extends along the sides of the tube substantially beyond the ends I6 of the trimmed edge l5, as indicated at ll, so as to avoid any possibility of breaking open of the stitching at these ends in the subsequent manufacturing operations or in the use of the boot, and thus a secure connection is assured and the seam portion is so completely incorporated in the structure in the subsequent operations that it substantially disappears and becomes invisible.
After the blank l0 has been prepared as above described, the blank is turned insidev out so that the edge of the seam is at the inside and then the blank is fulled and shrunk to the size required for the boot.
This fulling and shrinking is performed by lling a wooden tub containing dilute sulphuiic acid with these blanks I0, all turned inside out as aforesaid, and beating them in this sulphurlc acid bath, this being an operation that is well known in the art and the same operation that has appearance thereof is changed to that of a densely compacted felt of appreciably greater thick-- ness than the original knitted material.
After this fulling and shrinking operation, the blank is then steamed so that the bres are pliable, and after steaming it is placed on a form on which it is stretched and shaped in the boot shape.
This form, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, is of a semicollapsible type which may be adjusted to an elongated form as shown in Fig. 3 to facilitate application of the straight shrunken blank Iii thereon, after which it is adjusted to the foot shape form of Fig. 4 to stretch and shape the blank as required for the boot.
Thus, this form is made with front and rear leg portions I8 and I9 respectively, properly shaped or rounded to correspond substantially to the front and rear of the leg and connected by spaced links 2li and 2| so that they are relatively movable longitudinally, and the link 2I, which is pivoted to the front leg portion I8 approximately at the instep bend, has attached thereto an eX- tension 22 of instep and toe form with a rearwardly extending part 23, which in the normal Fig. 4 position of the form, projects toward the lower end of the rear leg portion i9 which is shaped at its lower end as at 24 to correspond to the required heel shape, the heel portion 24 being arranged to cooperate with the extension 23 of the instep and toe portion 22 to form the bottom or sole portion of the boot.
Thus, by relative adjustment of the two leg portions I 8 and I9, the instep and toe portion 22 may be adjusted to project upwardly as shown in Fig. 3 to facilitate application thereon of the shrunken and steamed blank I which is then pulled down thereon as indicated by the dotted lines at III in Fig. 3, it being desirable in this operation of applying the blank I0 to arrange the blank thereon so that the seam produced by the stitching I'd extends transversely across the toe of the form so that in the finished boot it will lie in a plane substantially parallel with the bottom of the boot.
After the steamed and shrunken blank lil has been applied on the -collapsed form of Fig. 3, the form is then adjusted to the normal foot shape of Fig. 4, this being preferably accomplished by a machine which engages the outer ends of the leg portions IB and I9 and relatively adjusts same so as to force the angle and toe portion 22 of the form to the 90 degree position of Fig. 4, and thereby stretch and shape the blank to the required boot shape as indicated by dotted lines at IIJ in Fig. 4.
After the blank is dried and set on the Fig. 4 form in the required boot shape, it is removed from the form and the counter strip 25 and counter 26 secured thereon, also the sole 2l' and heel 28, and it is slitted down the front and provided with the usual closing means, su-ch as eyelets 29 and lace 3D, all in the same manner as in previous felt boots of this type.
In the shaping of the steamed blank Ill on the form of Figs. 3 and 4, there is some thinning out of the material around the heel area because of the stretching thereof to the heel shape, but this thinning out is of no consequence because theV material is covered and amply reinforced at these places by the counter strip 25 and counter 26 and also the heel portion of the sole 21.
While we have shown and described our invention in a. preferred form, we are aware that modications can be made therein without departing fr ornthe spirit of the invention, the scope of which is to be determined by the appended claims.
What we claim as our invention is:
1. The method of making a boot of the class described, which said method comprises providing substantially straight seamless knitted woolen tube stock of substantially uniform circumferential size throughout its length, cutting from said stock a length of tubing suitable for the boot and stitching a seam arcuately across one open end thereof to form a conveXly rounded closure across said end, then shrinking said closed end tubing and thereby thickening and compacting the knitted woolen wall thereof, and thereafter deforming and permanently shaping a seamless portion of said tubing from the straight tubular form thereof into angular composite heel, ankle and instep form with the seamed end of the tubing localized in the toe portion of the boot.
2. The method of making a boot of the class described, which said method comprises providing substantially straight seamless knitted woolen tube stock of substantially uniform circumferential size throughout its length, cutting from said stock a length of tubing suitable for the boot and stitching and trimming a seam arcuately across one open end thereof to form a con- Vexly rounded closure across said end, then turning the closed end tubing inside out, then shrinking said closed end tubing and thereby thickening and compacting the knitted woolen wall thereof, and thereafter deforming and permanently shaping a seamless portion of said tubing from the straight tubular form thereof into angular composite heel, ankle and instep form with the seamed end of the tubing localized in the toe portion of the boot.
3. The method of making a boot of the class described, which said method comprises providing substantially straight seamless knitted woolen tube stock of substantially uniform circumferential size throughout its length, cutting from said stock a length of tubing suitable for the boot and stitching and trimming a seam arcuately across one open end thereof to form a convexly rounded closure across said end, then turning the closed end tub-ing inside out, then shrinking said closed end tubing and thereby thickening and compacting the knitted woolen wall thereof, and thereafter deforming and permanently shaping a seamless portion of said tubing from the straight tubular form thereof into angular composite heel, ankle and instep form with the seam at lthe end of the tubing localized and embedded in and extending transversely across the toe portion of the boot.
4. The method of making a boot of the class described, which said method comprises providing substantially straight seamless knitted woolen tube stock of substantially uniform circumferential size throughout its length, cutting from said stock a length of tubing suitable for the boot and stitching and trimming a seam arcuately across one open end thereof to form a convexly rounded closure across said end, then turning the closed end tubing inside out, then shrinking said closed end tubing and thereby thickening and compacting the knitted woolen wall thereof, and thereafter deforming and permanently shaping a seamless portion of said tubing from the straight tubular form thereof into angular composite heel, ankle and instep form with the seam at the end of the tubing localized and embedded in and extending transversely across the toe portion of the boot, then slitting the front of the seamless ltube and applying fastening means therealong and also attaching a. sole and Number heel reinforcings to the foot shaped portion of 297,280 the tubing. 322,285 ROY E. SHERMAN. 343,135 LUDWIG P. HANSON. 5 376,373 501,133 REFERENCES CITED 533,528 The following references are of record in the 112201209 file of this patent: 13663627 10 1,972,976 UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,147,197 Number Name Date 2,292,455
256,538 Bissell Apr. 18, 1882 6 Name Date Messer Apr. 22, 1884 Hawley July 14, 1885 Messer June 1, 1886 Dodge Jan. 10, 1888 Clark July 11, 1893 Ephraim June 1, 1897 Ellis Mar. 21, 1917 Glidden June 24, 1930 Burnham Sept. 11, 1934 Glidden Feb. 14, 1939 LHollier Aug. 11, 1942
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Cited By (22)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2677201A (en) * 1950-07-06 1954-05-04 Lyon George Albert Shoe of thin gauge sheet metal
US3093916A (en) * 1955-06-20 1963-06-18 Handcraft Company Inc Stretchable footwear
US5564162A (en) * 1994-03-22 1996-10-15 Adjas; Nabil Boot tree with compressible links
US20110061265A1 (en) * 2000-03-10 2011-03-17 Lyden Robert M Custom article of footwear and method of making the same
US8266749B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2012-09-18 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US20140082905A1 (en) * 2012-09-25 2014-03-27 Long John Tsung Right Industrial Co., Ltd. Weaving Method of Three-Dimensional Vamp
US8701232B1 (en) * 2013-09-05 2014-04-22 Nike, Inc. Method of forming an article of footwear incorporating a trimmed knitted upper
US20180140050A1 (en) * 2016-11-22 2018-05-24 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing shoe embryo tailored from tubular fabric and associated shoe embryo
EP3326479A1 (en) * 2016-11-25 2018-05-30 Wholeknit International Co., Ltd. Method for manufacturing shoe embryo tailored from tubular fabric and associated shoe embryo
US10051918B2 (en) 2015-05-08 2018-08-21 Under Armour, Inc. Footwear including a textile upper
US10092058B2 (en) 2013-09-05 2018-10-09 Nike, Inc. Method of forming an article of footwear incorporating a knitted upper with tensile strand
USD838948S1 (en) * 2016-05-20 2019-01-29 Valentino S.P.A. Shoe
US10455885B2 (en) 2014-10-02 2019-10-29 Adidas Ag Flat weft-knitted upper for sports shoes
US10645999B2 (en) 2014-03-25 2020-05-12 Under Armour, Inc. Footwear upper including variable stitch density
US10834992B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2020-11-17 Adidas Ag Shoe
US10939729B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2021-03-09 Adidas Ag Knitted shoe upper
US11044963B2 (en) 2014-02-11 2021-06-29 Adidas Ag Soccer shoe
EP3895574A1 (en) 2020-04-17 2021-10-20 Horse Pilot Boot suitable for practising horse riding and comprising an upper that is deformable in width and length
EP3964615A2 (en) 2020-09-08 2022-03-09 adidas AG Article comprising a knit element with threads knitted together and diverging
IT202100013652A1 (en) * 2021-05-26 2022-11-26 Autec Di Geri Ing Fabrizio & C S A S DEVICE FOR HANDLING A MOBILE PART OF A SHOE LAST
US11589637B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2023-02-28 Adidas Ag Layered shoe upper
US11666113B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2023-06-06 Adidas Ag Shoe with knitted outer sole

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US2677201A (en) * 1950-07-06 1954-05-04 Lyon George Albert Shoe of thin gauge sheet metal
US3093916A (en) * 1955-06-20 1963-06-18 Handcraft Company Inc Stretchable footwear
US5564162A (en) * 1994-03-22 1996-10-15 Adjas; Nabil Boot tree with compressible links
US20110061265A1 (en) * 2000-03-10 2011-03-17 Lyden Robert M Custom article of footwear and method of making the same
US8209883B2 (en) 2000-03-10 2012-07-03 Robert Michael Lyden Custom article of footwear and method of making the same
US10130135B2 (en) 2004-03-03 2018-11-20 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9961954B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-05-08 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US11849795B2 (en) 2004-03-03 2023-12-26 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US10834989B2 (en) 2004-03-03 2020-11-17 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US20170311670A1 (en) * 2004-03-03 2017-11-02 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US20170303628A1 (en) * 2004-03-03 2017-10-26 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US8266749B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2012-09-18 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US20170311671A1 (en) * 2004-03-03 2017-11-02 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US20170318894A1 (en) * 2004-03-03 2017-11-09 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9907351B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-03-06 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9907350B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-03-06 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9918510B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-03-20 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9918511B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-03-20 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US10130136B2 (en) 2004-03-03 2018-11-20 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9924759B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-03-27 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9924758B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-03-27 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9930923B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-04-03 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9936758B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-04-10 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9943130B2 (en) * 2004-03-03 2018-04-17 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US9986781B2 (en) 2004-03-03 2018-06-05 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear having a textile upper
US8959691B2 (en) * 2012-09-25 2015-02-24 Long John Tsung Right Industrial Co., Ltd. Weaving method of three-dimensional vamp
US20140082905A1 (en) * 2012-09-25 2014-03-27 Long John Tsung Right Industrial Co., Ltd. Weaving Method of Three-Dimensional Vamp
US10834992B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2020-11-17 Adidas Ag Shoe
US11896083B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2024-02-13 Adidas Ag Knitted shoe upper
US11129433B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2021-09-28 Adidas Ag Shoe
US11678712B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2023-06-20 Adidas Ag Shoe
US11666113B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2023-06-06 Adidas Ag Shoe with knitted outer sole
US11589637B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2023-02-28 Adidas Ag Layered shoe upper
US10939729B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2021-03-09 Adidas Ag Knitted shoe upper
US11116275B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2021-09-14 Adidas Ag Shoe
US10834991B2 (en) 2013-04-19 2020-11-17 Adidas Ag Shoe
US9339076B2 (en) 2013-09-05 2016-05-17 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear incorporating a trimmed knitted upper
US10512296B2 (en) 2013-09-05 2019-12-24 Nike, Inc. Article of footwear incorporating a trimmed knitted upper
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