US20030106171A1

US20030106171A1 - Comfort moccasin

Info

Publication number: US20030106171A1
Application number: US10/014,031
Authority: US
Inventors: David Issler
Original assignee: Columbia Insurance Co
Current assignee: Columbia Insurance Co
Priority date: 2001-12-10
Filing date: 2001-12-10
Publication date: 2003-06-12

Abstract

A method for making footwear includes providing a moccasin including a plug attaching to a vamp; providing a sole having an upper surface with a cavity formed within the forward portion of the sole; and, providing a cushioning layer within the cavity of the sole. The present method offers cushioning for the sole of the foot re-creating the “almost barefoot” feeling characteristic of traditional, authentic moccasins. The present method and comfort moccasin provides shock absorption to the sole of the foot in a simple and economical attachment of the moccasin to a sole having a cushioning layer, creating the comfortable and supple barefoot feel of traditional moccasins.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

This invention relates to footwear and method of constructing footwear.

BACKGROUND

The moccasin is a construction that originated in North America where the Native Americans sewed two pieces of leather together by hand with a durable thread. For the most part, moccasins have characteristics that make it particularly well suited to provide maximum comfort to a wearer's tired and weary foot. Each style of moccasin has a unique look and feel depending on the assembly and materials used. Typically, moccasins are soft and pliable, but in order to make them durable and suitable for hard and abrasive surfaces such as cement, a rigid outsole may be attached to the bottom surface of the moccasin. This, however, takes away the “bare foot” feel of the original, authentic “True Moccasin.”

SUMMARY

In a general aspect of the invention, a method for constructing footwear includes providing a moccasin, a sole having an upper surface with a cavity formed within the forward portion of the sole, and a cushioning layer within the cavity of the sole. The moccasin includes a plug attached to a vamp.

In embodiments of the invention, one or more of the following features may also be included. The forward portion of the sole corresponds to a region extending between a metatarsal region and a toe region of the moccasin. The method may also include providing a finished fake welt around an outer peripheral portion of the sole.

In certain embodiments, a sock liner is provided within the moccasin. The method further includes hand sewing the plug to the vamp to form an area defining a volume for receiving a wearer's foot.

As yet another feature, the method also includes providing and securing resilient material within the cavity of the outsole.

Additionally, the method includes forming a rearward portion of the moccasin to accommodate the wearer's heel.

As another feature, the method includes securely attaching the bottom surface of the moccasin to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole.

The method can also include forming a comfort moccasin by aligning a front bottom surface of the moccasin over the cushioning layer of the sole and securely attaching the moccasin in an attachment area within the cavity of the sole along the outer peripheral portion of the sole.

According to another aspect of the invention, a comfort moccasin includes a moccasin including a plug attached to a vamp; a sole having an upper surface with a cavity formed within the forward portion of the sole; and, a cushioning layer positioned within the cavity of the sole.

In embodiments of the invention, one or more of the following features may also be included. A finished fake welt is provided around an outer peripheral portion of the sole, and a sock liner is attached within the moccasin.

The forward portion of the sole corresponds to a region extending between a metatarsal region and a toe region of the moccasin. The plug is hand sewn to the vamp to form an area defining a volume for receiving the wearer's foot.

As another feature, a bottom surface of the moccasin is securely attached to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole. Further, the front bottom surface of the moccasin is aligned over the cushioning layer of the sole and the moccasin is securely attached to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole along the outer peripheral portion.

Additionally, a fiber tuck is positioned within a rearward portion of the moccasin. The fiber tuck is formed of a rigid fiber material and includes a metal reinforcement shank. Furthermore, the sock liner is positioned in a rearward portion of the moccasin extending from a metatarsal region to the rear portion of the moccasin, and the sock liner is positioned above the fiber tuck to provide cushioning to the wearer's foot in this region.

As yet another feature, the moccasin is lasted with a last having a convex bottom surface, and the moccasin is securely attached to the attachment area using Littleway stitching.

Embodiments may have one or more of the following advantages.

Wearers have a variety of factors to consider when choosing the right type of footwear to wear, not the last of which is comfort, the main reason wearers have preferred moccasins to other many types of footwear in the market.

The method for making footwear described above provides cushioning for the sole of the foot re-creating the “almost barefoot” feeling characteristic of traditional, authentic moccasins. The present invention provides, in other words, shock absorption to the sole of the foot where comfort is most needed.

Another advantage provided is the solid design making it durable for outdoors and street-wear usage. The footwear may be used for many years on abrasive surfaces such as cement, asphalt or any type of industrial surface without reducing the life of the footwear. The footwear can be used daily as a stylish, dress type of shoe, capable of withstanding years of outdoor use.

In addition, this method is flexible and maintains the superior qualities of the traditional, authentic moccasins, providing the relaxed feel, comfort and style of these original pieces.

Furthermore, the footwear of the present invention can be easily slipped off and on, staying securely on the wearer's foot.

Moccasins can also be worn barefoot and the footwear provides roomier toe area in the moccasin for increased comfort, which eliminates any irritation on top of toes such as blisters especially when worn barefoot. Moreover, as the forepart of the footwear has been finished in the inside part and the upper leather of the vamp is wrapped around the convex last, the need for additional insert socks is eliminated. Thus space is gained. Eliminating discomfort especially in the sole of the foot can significantly help prevent back troubles, feet soreness, and many other types of common foot ailments and injuries.

The present method also provides a durable and comfortable sole. The sole provides excellent wear characteristics, providing resistance, best performance, and long term benefits to the wearer. In addition, the footwear is lightweight with supple qualities, easy to care for, and also readily resoleable if required. Further, the stitching provided for the secure attachment of the footwear components allows the footwear to withstand constant abrasive abuse without fear of tears and rips.

The details of one or more embodiments of the invention are set forth in the accompanying drawings and the description below. Other features, objects, and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the description and drawings, and from the claims.

DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 is a perspective side view of the components of a comfort moccasin. [0025]
FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the comfort moccasin of FIG. 1. [0026]
FIG. 3 shows the interior components of the comfort moccasin of FIG. 2. [0027]
FIG. 4 is a perspective view of a sole. [0028]
FIG. 5 is a bottom surface view of the comfort moccasin of FIG. 1. [0029]
FIG. 6 is a pictorial side view of the sole of FIG. 5. [0030]
FIG. 7 is a perspective view of the completed comfort moccasin of FIG. 1.[0031]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

Referring now to the figures in which identical elements are numbered identically throughout, a description of the embodiments of the present invention will now be provided. [0032]
Referring to FIG. 1, a [0033] comfort moccasin 10 includes a moccasin 12 and a sole 14 having a cushioning layer 16. The comfort moccasin 10 is built by joining the moccasin 12 to the sole 14 as will be described more fully below. The description of the components of the comfort moccasin 10 follows.
Referring to FIG. 2, [0034] moccasin 12 has a plug 18 stitched to a vamp 20, preferably by hand-sewing. This way, the plug 18 covers the upper part of a wearer's foot and toes.
The [0035] plug 18 can have various types of designs and constructions. Ornamental details may be included in the plug 18. In this embodiment, the plug 18 includes a saddle 88 stitched to the sides of the vamp 20 extending across the plug 18. The saddle 88 includes an ornamental mini chain-like decoration for a distinctive aesthetic appeal. The saddle 88 also helps to hold the plug 18 in place preventing any strain or excessive stretch on the toe seam 48. The plug 18 can also incorporate a front tie design for tying with a drawstring or laces so that the moccasin 12 can be snug as desired to the wearer's foot.
The [0036] plug 18, by covering the upper part of the wearer's foot, forms an internal spacing with the vamp 20 where the wearer's foot is inserted, i.e., an area 50 defining a volume for placement of the foot.
The [0037] plug 18 and the vamp 20 are preferably made of the same material (e.g., leather). The vamp 20 may also include an inner liner (not shown) covering the side vamp 34 for aesthetic or practical purposes such as absorbing moisture when the moccasin is used barefoot. Moccasins can be made from several different types of leather. The type of leather used gives the moccasin a characteristic quality and feel. Moccasin 12 can be crafted out of leather, suede, moose hide, buffalo skin, cowhide, elk, sheep, deerskin, including oil tanned and glove tanned, all of which can stretch and provide a comfortable fit. The different type, thickness, and quality of leather determine not only the suppleness and comfort of the moccasin but also the years of dependable service a moccasin guarantees. The inner lining of the moccasin 12 may also be made of a thinner, more absorbent and breathable type of leather, or any polyester type of material. Although leather is preferably the material of choice for quality moccasins such as moccasin 12, any suitable material with good qualities, i.e., tear resistant, durable, such as high quality stitched-in textile made of strong fiber material, may be used to make the plug 18 and the vamp 20.
The [0038] vamp 20 includes a bottom surface 52 and a bottom peripheral portion 79 for attachment to the sole 14. Vamp 20 also includes a foxing 30 that includes a reinforcement seam 32. The foxing 30 is stitched to the vamp 20 which covers a heel region accommodating the wearer's foot in the rearward portion 46 of moccasin 12 for superior support in the heel area. Moccasin 12 provides reinforcement in the foxing 30 because this region is often crushed when inserting the foot, by straining or squeezing the foxing 30 especially when wearers are in a hurry and do not use shoehorns to help put on the moccasin 12 without crushing the foxing 30. Accordingly, the reinforcement strip 12 provides stability, durability, and secured fit.
The foxing [0039] 30 and the reinforcement seam 32 are machine stitched to the vamp 20 from the inner side vamp 34. The vamp 20 also includes a perimeter stitching 33 provided continuously around an entire upper opening 37 of moccasin 12 to form a collar 35. The collar 35 extends the life of the moccasin 12 by preventing loose threads and provides a firmer and more solid construction as well as a styled crafty appearance.
The [0040] moccasin 12 also includes in the area 50 defining the volume for the wearer's foot, a toe region 42, a metatarsal region 44, and a rearward portion 46. The metatarsal region 44 corresponds to the first metatarsal region, i.e. where the moccasin 12 bends or “breaks” at the MetaTarsal Phalangeal (MTP) joint. Within the area 50, a sock liner 22 is positioned between the metatarsal region 44 and the rearward portion 46 where the heel sits. The inner components of the moccasin 12 are further described with respect to FIG. 3.
Referring to FIG. 3, a [0041] sock liner 22, a fiber tuck 68, and a metal reinforcement steel shank 70 form an inner moccasin assembly 23. Each of these layers may be used for alignment with the other layer components. The inner moccasin assembly 23 extends from the metatarsal region 44 to the rearward portion 46. In particular, the metal reinforcement steel shank 70 is aligned with a center region 69 of the fiber tuck 68. The metal reinforcement steel shank 70 can be attached to the fiber tuck 68 by fixing means such as cylindrical metal rods, screws, or pins.
The [0042] fiber tuck 68 is formed of a rigid fiber material composed of cellulose fibers such as cardboard for providing structural rigidity and maintaining the shape of the moccasin 12. The fiber tuck 68 can also have characteristics which are flexible, lightweight, heat insulating, breathable, and also inert against bacteria and fungus. In the inner assembly 23, the fiber tuck 68 is joined by the metal reinforcement steel shank 70, thus providing the structural rigidity to the heel 28 of the moccasin 12 where it is most needed. Moreover, the fiber tuck 68 and the metal reinforcement steel shank 70 support the heel 28 attached to the sole 14.
In the [0043] inner moccasin assembly 23, the sock liner 22 is provided as well. The sock liner 22 is a padded structure designed to provide cushioning and support to the wearer's foot. Further, the sock liner 22 is porous, having air apertures 25 to increase the porosity of the already porous sock liner 22 for foot ventilation, drying, and comfort. The sock liner 22 includes a sock liner convex part 29 which includes air holes. The sock liner 22 is made preferably of leather but any suitable material may be used. In some embodiments, the sock liner 22 may be decoratively quilted to provide an aesthetically pleasing look to the interior surface of the moccasin 12. In addition, the sock liner 22 includes a full foam on drill and elastic cookie arch support in the sock liner convex part 29.
Referring now to FIG. 4, the sole [0044] 14 has an upper surface 21 and includes a strip of finished welt 24 positioned continuously around the entire contoured perimeter of the sole 14. The sole 14 also includes a cushioning layer 16 and a U-shaped heel 18. The sole 14 is preferably made of leather, thus providing superior defining characteristics, such as durability, style, and comfort.
The strip of [0045] finished welt 24 is also preferably made of leather. The finished welt 24 includes a zigzag pattern 64 in a slightly inclined position, i.e., the zigzag pattern 64 has a downward-sloped design where the finished welt 24 has a slightly larger thickness in the perimeter region than in the region where the finished welt joins the cavity area 27. Accordingly, the downward-sloped design of the strip of finished welt 24 forms a cavity 26 of the sole which defines the cavity area 27.
In particular, the [0046] cushioning layer 16 includes reduced edges and is preferably about 3-5 mm in thickness. The cushioning layer 16 is cushy and covers the most important part of the moccasin 12 where most of the shock-absorption is needed, i.e., the forward portion 62 of the sole 14. Because the comfort moccasin 10 uses an authentic and original moccasin 12, no insole or cushioning is provided in the region extending from the metatarsal region 44 to the toe region 42 of the moccasin 12. Thus, cushioning layer 16 is critical in giving the support needed to provide the supple, soft cushioning required to obtain the “almost barefoot” feel of the original moccasins. The cushioning layer 16 is bound tightly to the sole 14 by adhesive glue. Preferably, the cushioning layer 16 is shaped in conformity with the sole 14, and is spaced from the recessed channel 60 by about {fraction (1/4)} inch from the periphery of the sole 14. When the moccasin 12 is stitched to the sole 14, the cushioning layer 16 is held securely at its edges by the gluing.
As completed, the [0047] cushioning layer 16 provides enhanced wearing comfort. Depending upon the thickness of the cushioning layer 16, the fact that the cushioning layer 16 is provided in the cavity 26 of the sole 14 and not in the moccasin 12 increases the space needed for the toes because no insole or cushioning layer need to be provided in the moccasin 12. This way, a roomier moccasin 12 results greatly enhancing the benefits of the comfort moccasin 10.
The sole [0048] 14, although preferably made of leather, can be also made of a monolithic synthetic composition material which is light in weight, just as wear resistant as leather, flexible, and highly resilient or elastic. The sole 14 may be produced of a plastic material, for example, from a vinyl polymer, polyolefin, or polystyrene. The sole 14 provides a flexible and durable structure for the moccasin 12. The sole 14 is also preferably designed to provide the styled silhouette and support, making the comfort moccasin 10 aesthetically desirable and comfortable for the wearer.
The sole [0049] 14 includes a U-shaped heel 18 having stacked characteristics. The U-shaped heel 18 is constructed of a quality leather heel base 90 having a top surface (not shown), a bottom surface (not shown), and a heel edge 91 which extends continuously around the back and both sides of the heel base 90. The heel base 90 includes a front edge 96. A rubber lift 92 is secured to the bottom surface of the heel base 90, thus forming a bottom heel surface 94, which may be roughened or lined to provide improved traction. Both the heel edge 91 and an entire peripheral surface 98 of the sole 14 are highly dressed and polished to display the appearance of a highly styled heel 18 and sole 14. The heel base 90 provides additional heel support, lift, and non-skidability. The walking surface 56, especially the rubber lift 92, ensures that the contact between the ground and the walking surface is uniformly distributed so that the comfort moccasin 10 can be worn for prolonged duration.
Referring to FIG. 5, a walking surface [0050] 56 of the sole 14 is shown. A recessed channel 60 is provided in the opposite walking side of the forward portion 62 of the sole 14. The walking surface 56 is shown with the heel 28 having the rubber lift 92.
Referring to FIG. 6, a side view of the sole [0051] 14 is shown. The heel 28 has a thickness 84 larger than the sole thickness 86. The thickness 84 may be of any desired thickness across its length suitable for moccasin assembly and construction.
The construction method of this embodiment will now be described in conjunction with the accompanying figures. [0052]
In preparation for constructing the [0053] comfort moccasin 10, the plug 18 is first water-saturated. Meanwhile, the vamp 20 is cut and stitched to form the collar 35. Similarly, the vamp 20 is water saturated for pulling around the bottom of a last (not shown) in a lasting process (not shown) which will be described further below. A last is a three-dimensional human foot form where the moccasin 12 is molded. A last with a slightly convex bottom is used to create a true, authentic moccasin 12. Prior to the lasting process, the components of the vamp 40, i.e., the foxing 30 and the reinforcement seam 32 are stitched to the vamp 20 in the rear section.
Also prior to the lasting process, the [0054] inner moccasin assembly 23 is assembled, i.e., the metal reinforcement steel shank 70 and the fiber tuck 68 are attached in the center region 69 of the fiber tuck 68. This is achieved by the use of fixing means such as cylindrical metal rods, screws, or pins.
Prior to attaching the [0055] moccasin 12 to the sole 14, the lasting process is performed. The water-saturated vamp 20 is pulled over the convex last, i.e., covering the bottom surface 52 and leaving the hand-sewing edges of the vamp 20 exposed. In other words, the vamp 20 is pulled around the bottom of the last. Then, the vamp 20 is joined with the plug 18 by means of a hand-sewing operation creating the toe seam 48, i.e., the plug 18 is positioned and hand sewn to the vamp 20. The sewing operation continues along the entire toe region 42 of the moccasin 12. The joining of these components by stitching creates a one-piece “cavity”, creating the area 50 defining a volume for placement of the wearer's foot.
Thereafter, the [0056] fiber tuck 68 and the metal reinforcement steel shank 70 are inserted in the rearward portion 46 of the moccasin 12. Next, the heelseat lasting (not shown) is performed.
The [0057] moccasin 12 is now left to dry on the last after hammering of the vamp 20 eliminates wrinkles. The bottom surface 52 of the moccasin 12 is roughed and the outsole 14 is fixed temporarily only strongly enough to hold the moccasin 12 in place while the last is removed.
A [0058] moccasin 12 without the sole 14 is the most traditional, authentic type of moccasin, extremely comfortable, light weight, and with a pliable soft bottom surface 52. A pair of moccasin 12 without soles will last several years if worn only indoors. But for wearing outdoors, i.e., on abrasive walking surfaces such as cement, the sole 14 must be provided. We now turn to the preparation and making of the sole 14.
The sole [0059] 14 is built using a fake welt construction. In particular the sole 14 is built by joining the heel base 90 to the strip of finished welt 24 around the entire contoured perimeter of the sole 14, thus forming the peripheral surface 98 of the sole 14. The rubber lift 92 is attached to the rear part of the walking surface 56 of the sole 14. The cushioning layer 16 is adhesively attached in the cavity area 27 of cavity 26 of the sole 14. The heel edge 91 and the peripheral surface 98 of the sole 14 are polished and styled. The sole 14 is now prepared and ready to be securely attached to the moccasin 12.
Next, the last is removed for the Littleway stitching operation of the [0060] moccasin 12 to the sole 14. A sewing machine used for sewing leather articles in the footwear industry includes a moveable pivotal horn (not shown) that can be positioned within the moccasin 12 from the upper opening 37 of the moccasin 12. The moveable horn moves around a contoured bottom peripheral portion 79 in the bottom surface 52 of the moccasin 12 stitching the moccasin 12 to the sole 14 through the contoured bottom peripheral portion 79. In particular, the needles of the horn follow a circular path, and the Littleway stitching is performed in the recessed channel 60 in the forward portion 62 of the sole 14.
Finally, the [0061] sock liner 22 can be inserted through the upper opening 37 made available now after removal of the last and the horn. The sock liner 22 can be adhesively combined with the fiber tuck 68 in a compact fashion, securely attaching all the components of the inner moccasin assembly 23. Because the comfort moccasin 10 can be made more comfortable by providing as many layers of cushion or foam inserts as desired, adequate space is provided so that the wearer may choose do add additional inserts if this is desired. Accordingly, the sock liner 22 is inserted into the moccasin 12 so as to be disposed only between metatarsal region 44 and rearward portion 46 of moccasin 12. So that the sock liner 22 does not dislodge, tear or bend when inserting or removing the foot from the shoe, adhesive gluing or other secure means for attachment must be accurately performed. The completed comfort moccasin 10 is shown in FIG. 7.
Although the [0062] comfort moccasin 10 is preferably built with the moccasin 12, the comfort moccasin 10 may also be made with any loafer-style type of footwear which does not have an insole. Therefore, the comfort moccasin 10 is not only limited to moccasins. Moreover, the method of construction herein described relates to general methods of footwear manufacturing which are entirely within the scope of the invention. Furthermore, a number of embodiments of the invention have been described. Nevertheless, it will be understood that various modifications may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Accordingly, other embodiments are within the scope of the following claims.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A method for construction of footwear comprising:

providing a moccasin including a plug attached to a vamp;

providing a sole having an upper surface with a cavity formed within the forward portion of the sole; and, providing a cushioning layer within the cavity of the sole.

2. The method of claim 1 further comprising providing a finished fake welt around an outer peripheral portion of the sole, wherein the sole includes a walking surface having a forward region.

3. The method of claim 1 further comprising providing a sock liner in the moccasin, hand sewing the plug to the vamp to form an area defining a volume for receiving a wearer's foot.

4. The method of claim 1 wherein the forward portion of the sole corresponds to a region extending between a metatarsal region and a toe region of the moccasin.

5. The method of claim 1 further comprising providing and securing a resilient material within the cavity of the outsole.

6. The method of claim 1 further comprising securely attaching a bottom surface of the moccasin to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole.

7. The method of claim 1 further comprising forming a comfort moccasin by aligning a front bottom surface of the moccasin over the cushioning layer of the sole and securely attaching the moccasin in an attachment area within the cavity of the sole along the outer peripheral portion of the sole.

8. The method of claim 1 further comprising attaching the moccasin to the sole using a Littleway stitching operation.

9. The method of claim 3 wherein the sock liner is positioned in a rearward portion of the moccasin extending from a metatarsal region to the rear portion of the moccasin.

10. The method of claim 9 wherein the sock liner is positioned above the fiber tuck to provide cushioning to the wearer's foot extending from a metatarsal region to a heel region of the wearer's foot.

11. The method of claim 1 further comprising hand sewing the moccasin on a last having a convex bottom surface.

12. The method of claim 1 wherein the moccasin is hand-made and the moccasin and the sole are made of leather.

13. The method of claim 2 wherein the finished fake welt is made of leather.

14. The method of claim 6 wherein the securing includes Littleway stitching of a bottom peripheral portion of the moccasin to the outer peripheral portion of the sole.

15. The method of claim 7 wherein forming a comfort moccasin includes Littleway stitching of a bottom peripheral portion of the moccasin to the outer peripheral portion of the sole.

16. The method of claim 7 wherein the cushioning layer is adhesively attached to the forward portion of the sole.

17. The method of claim 1 wherein the sole includes a heel.

18. The method of claim 1 wherein the cushioning layer is made of a foam material.

19. The method of claim 1 wherein the moccasin is a loafer style shoe.

20. A comfort moccasin comprising:

a moccasin including a plug attached to a vamp;

a sole having an upper surface with a cavity formed within the forward portion of the sole; and,

a cushioning layer positioned within the cavity of the sole.

21. The method of claim 20 wherein a resilient material is provided within the cavity of the outsole.

22. The method of claim 20 wherein a bottom surface of the moccasin is securely attached to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole.

23. The method of claim 20 wherein the front bottom surface of the moccasin is aligned over the cushioning layer of the sole and the moccasin is securely attached to an attachment area within the cavity of the sole along the outer peripheral portion of the sole.