EP3231912A1 - Aus baumwollimitat gestrickter stoff, terylenfilement und herstellungsverfahren dafür - Google Patents

Aus baumwollimitat gestrickter stoff, terylenfilement und herstellungsverfahren dafür Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3231912A1
EP3231912A1 EP15866696.6A EP15866696A EP3231912A1 EP 3231912 A1 EP3231912 A1 EP 3231912A1 EP 15866696 A EP15866696 A EP 15866696A EP 3231912 A1 EP3231912 A1 EP 3231912A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
twist
fabric
polyester
false
cotton
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP15866696.6A
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English (en)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3231912A4 (de
Inventor
Foquan WENG
Qing Zhang
Haiyan LIANG
Hongwei FAN
Qibing GUAN
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Toray Fibers Nantong Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Toray Fibers Nantong Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
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Application filed by Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd, Toray Fibers Nantong Co Ltd filed Critical Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
Publication of EP3231912A1 publication Critical patent/EP3231912A1/de
Publication of EP3231912A4 publication Critical patent/EP3231912A4/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • D02G1/0266—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting false-twisting machines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/06—Non-run fabrics or articles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/0005—Materials specially adapted for outerwear made from a plurality of interconnected elements
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/10—Knitted
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F6/88—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds
    • D01F6/92—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds of polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0286—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns
    • D02G1/0293—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns composed, at least in part, of natural fibres

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cotton-like knitted fabric, a polyester filament and a production method thereof, and in particular to a cotton-like knitted fabric suitable for manufacturing T-shirts and a polyester filament used as a raw material thereof.
  • the Patent Document CN103898670A has disclosed a cotton-like knitted fabric and a production method thereof, wherein the cotton-like knitted fabric is obtained by jointly knitting pure polyester staple yarns, polyester-cotton staple yarns and spandex yarns.
  • the obtained fabric is processed by high-temperature alkali deweighting to achieve excellent softness and cotton-like effect, the hydroscopic and fast-drying performance is greatly improved, and the defect that a fabric made of chemical fibers is stuffy when worn is overcome.
  • the high-temperature alkali deweighting will dissolve hairs on the surface of the fabric and reduce the hairiness of the fabric.
  • the Patent Document CN102517775A has disclosed a hygroscopic and exothermic super cotton-like knitted fabric with a jacquard air layer, which is formed from blended yarns made of Porel fibers (capillary polyester long fibers) and cellulosic fibers, with the content of the cellulosic fibers in the blended yarns being 50% to 60%.
  • the resulting knitted fabric is very excellent in cotton-like effect and hydroscopic and fast-drying performance.
  • the used Porel fibers belong to special functional fibers, the relatively high content of the Porel fibers increases the product cost.
  • the Patent Document CN103603113A has disclosed a textured yarn obtained by fusing and false-twisting polyester filaments, which is soft and has a concavo-convex feeling on the surface when touched.
  • a fabric formed from such a textured yarn has a gritty and hollow-out texture.
  • twist regions in a false-twist direction of the yarn have a too small coefficient of variation, the obtained fabric does not have the appearance and touch feeling of cotton products although it has a uniform pore area distribution and a high glossiness.
  • the Patent Document JP2000-303287 has disclosed a partially-fused polyester yarn, where twist portions in a false-twist direction, twistless crinkled portions and twist portions in a untwist direction are alternatively arranged.
  • On the surface of the yarn there are basically no nubs, and the glossiness is reduced, so that the heterogeneity and roughness of the surface of a linen fabric are solved.
  • the obtained fabric feels like linen and is unable to be compared with cotton products in touch feeling and appearance.
  • an objective of the present invention is to provide a polyester filament which is simple in processing, soft in touch feeling and high in natural fiber feeling, and a cotton-like knitted fabric obtained from the polyester filament, which feels like real cotton and is excellent in air permeability, bursting strength, hydroscopic and fast-drying performance, and ultraviolet resistance.
  • the present invention employs the following technical solutions.
  • the present invention provides a cotton-like knitted fabric which is a weft-knitted fabric obtained by material containing at least above 45% by weight of polyester filaments; and, the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered on 6000 to 22000 ⁇ m 2 and has a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , and the coefficient of variation of the pore area is greater than 40%.
  • the present invention provides a polyester filament which is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of less than 0.3 cm, a coefficient of variation of length of above 60%, a diameter that is 30% to 70% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 20.0% to 40.0% of the total length of the polyester filaments.
  • the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention has the same pore area distribution and the same appearance as the cotton-containing products. Meanwhile, since the polyester filament is used as the main raw material, compared with a product made of staple fibers, the cotton-like knitted fabric is excellent in air permeability (JISL1096-2010 standard method A: 75 to 150 cm 3 /cm 2 /s) and bursting strength (JISL 1096-2010 standard: above 700 kpa), and compared with a cotton-containing product, it is excellent in hydroscopic and fast-drying performance (Corken method: the residual moisture after 60 min is below 10%).
  • the non-uniform diameter of the polyester filaments used in the present invention improves the diffuse reflection effect of the fabric and the polyester itself has an ultraviolet-resistant aromatic ring molecular structure, the fabric is excellent in ultraviolet resistance (Australian standard AS/NZS4399-1996: the value of UPF is above 45).
  • the fabric of the present invention is particularly suitable for manufacturing T-shits or the like.
  • the method for processing the polyester filament of the present invention is simple and easy, and provides for soft touch feeling and high natural fiber feeling.
  • the present invention provides a knitted fabric which is a weft-knitted fabric obtained by material containing at least above 45% by weight of polyester filaments; and, the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered on 6000 to 22000 ⁇ m 2 and has a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , and the coefficient of variation of the pore area is greater than 40%.
  • the polyester filament among the chemical fibers is simple in processing and low in cost and the polyester filament fabric is excellent in air permeability, bursting strength and other performances when compared with a polyester staple fiber fabric
  • the polyester filament is used as a material in the present invention.
  • the weft-knitting stitch has better flexibility, softness and comfort than other types of stitches, the weft-knitting stitch is used as a knitting stitch in the present invention.
  • the content of polyester filaments is less than 45%, the pores of the fabric will be reduced and the air permeability will be degraded, and as a result, the wearing comfort will be influenced. Furthermore, the appearance of cotton-containing products cannot be realized, and the pore area distribution is not centered within 6000 to 22000 ⁇ m 2 .
  • the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered within 6000 to 22000 ⁇ m 2 and has a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area is greater than 40%, and the fabric has the same appearance as cotton-containing products.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered less than 6000 ⁇ m 2 , it is indicated that the fabric has smaller pores and higher compactness and does not feel like cotton due to too stiff touch feeling.
  • the fabric is too compact, the fabric has reduced air permeability and lower flexibility, and the wearing comfort is greatly degraded.
  • the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered more than 22000 ⁇ m 2 , it is indicated that the fabric has larger pores and is too loose, and as a result, the requirements on slenderness and thickness of the cotton-containing products cannot be met. If the pore area has a statistical variability of within 2 ⁇ and a coefficient of variation of the pore area of the fabric is less than 40%, it is indicated that the fabric has uniform pores, low concavo-convex feeling and high glossiness (i.e., feels like chemical fibers), which are contrary to the low glossiness of the cotton-containing products.
  • the content of the polyester filaments of the present invention is preferably 100%. If the content of polyester filaments is higher, the distribution of the pore area is more non-uniform, and the appearance and touch feeling of the pure cotton staple fiber fabric may be more imitated.
  • polyester staple yarns, natural fiber staple yarns or the like may be knitted with the polyester filaments of the present invention to realize the cotton-like effect.
  • the present invention provides a polyester filament which is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of less than 0.3 cm, a coefficient of variation of length of above 60%, a diameter that is 30% to 70% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 20.0% to 40.0% of the total length of the polyester filaments.
  • a polyester filament looks like a cotton spun yarn in terms of appearance and various performances.
  • the twist regions in the false-twist direction are twisted portions of the yarn, and the twist regions in the opposite direction are untwisted portions of the yarn.
  • polyester filament of the present invention if twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of greater than 0.3 cm, the proportion of the twist regions in the false-twist indirection in the length direction of the yarn will be increased, and the yarn will become thinner and stiffer. Although the slenderness of the obtained fabric is enhanced, the fabric tends to become stiffer when touched.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention if the coefficient of variation of length (C.V) is less than 60%, the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric tends to become uniform, and it is possible to reduce the cotton-like effect, so that it is difficult to obtain the cotton-like appearance.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention if a ratio of the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction is smaller, that is, there is a larger difference between the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction and the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, the fabric has a more non-uniform pore area distribution and an appearance more similar to the cotton-containing products.
  • the ratio of the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction is less than 30%, that is, there is a too large difference between the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction and the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, it is possible to result in too large pores of the fabric, decrease the compactness and thus influence the cotton-like effect.
  • the ratio of the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction is greater than 70%, that is, there is a small difference between the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction and the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, it is possible to result in too uniform pore distribution of the fabric, and thus influence the cotton-like appearance effect. In addition, it is also possible to result in a smaller diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction of the yarn, so that the softness of the fabric is decreased.
  • polyester filament of the present invention if a ratio of the total length of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the total length of the polyester filament is smaller, better fluffiness and softness may be endowed to the fabric. If the proportion of the twist regions in the false-twist direction is less than 20%, it is possible to decrease the slenderness even if the fluffiness and softness of the fabric are improved, so that the balance between the slenderness and the softness of cotton products cannot be realized.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention has a total fineness of 56 to 220 dtex.
  • the fabric formed from the polyester filament has a smaller pore area, a reduced pore area difference and a smaller thickness, and the cotton-like appearance effect and the touch feeling are likely to be decreased.
  • the total fineness is greater than 200 dtex, the fabric formed from the polyester filament has larger pores, a too large thickness and poor cotton-like effect, and the compactness of full-cotton products may not be realized.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention preferably has a monofilament fineness of less than 1.3 dtex. If the monofilament fineness is greater than 1.3 dtex, it is possible to influence the smoothness of the fabric and decrease the cotton-like effect.
  • the fabric of the present invention is obtained by knitting a single polyester filament or jointly knitting two polyester filaments, refining, dying, sizing and other processes. In this way, the balance between the compactness and the pore distribution of the fabric may be ensured. For example, if polyester filaments having a total fineness of 56 to 100 dtex are to be used, two polyester filaments may be fed for knitting. For another example, if polyester filaments having a total fineness of 100 to 200 dtex, a single polyester filament may be fed for knitting.
  • the cotton-like fabric of the present invention is preferably obtained by fluffing.
  • the equipment for fluffing is not specifically limited, and may be a sanding machine from Sperrotto in Italy, with a speed of 5 to 30 m/min, a tension of 0.4 to 0.6 MPa and a mesh of 160# to 240#.
  • the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention has a bending rigidity (B) of 0.015 to 0.045 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 3 to 6 ⁇ , and a compression energy (WC) of 0.2 to 0.8 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • B bending rigidity
  • SMD surface roughness
  • WC compression energy
  • the fabric is stiffer.
  • the cotton products have a certain flexibility and slenderness.
  • the surface roughness refers to the flatness of the surface of the fabric. If the surface roughness has a smaller value, the fabric is smoother; or otherwise, the fabric is rougher.
  • the compression energy refers to the fluffiness of the fabric. If the compression energy has a larger value, the fabric is more fluffy.
  • the knitting stitch is not specifically limited. Plain stitch, close-mesh stitch or the like may be used as long as a certain compactness is endowed to the fabric.
  • the plain stitch is preferred.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention may be obtained by the following method: leading a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY into a first roller, then into a first hot box for heating, and finally into a false twister, a second roller, a second hot box and a third roller in accordance with the procedure of Fig. 2 to obtain the finished product, where the temperature in the first hot box is 230°C to 250°C, and the D/Y ratio in the step is 1.5 to 2.5.
  • the speed is not limited, and may be preferably 300 to 500 m/min for convenient operation; and, the extension rate is also not limited, and may be preferably 1.10 to 2.00 for convenient operation.
  • the polyester pre-oriented yarn POY used in the above procedure may be obtained by a known method in the art, for example, by melt spinning commercially available polyester chip material.
  • the speed of melt spinning may be set properly, preferably 2500 to 3500 m/min.
  • the fineness of the obtained polyester pre-oriented yarn POY and the number of monofilaments are not specifically limited.
  • the fineness of the polyester pre-oriented yarn POY is preferably 70 to 280 dtex, and the number of monofilaments is preferably 70 to 208.
  • the ratio of the total length of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the total length of the polyester filament will be less than 20% even if the average length of the twist regions in the false-twist direction may be controlled less than 0.3 cm; and the fabric obtained from the polyester filament cannot feel like real cotton even if its softness is increased and the slenderness is decreased.
  • the ratio of the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction will also be less than 30%, and the difference in diameter between the two kinds of regions will become larger.
  • the pore area distribution of the fabric may become more non-uniform, the partial pore area of the fabric will be too large, so that the same compactness as the cotton products cannot be realized.
  • the temperature in the first hot box is higher than 250°C, the average length of the twist regions in the false-twist direction is greater than 0.3 cm, the ratio of the total length of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the total length of the filament will be also greater than 40%, and the fabric obtained from the filament has a greatly decreased softness although its slenderness is increased, so that the cotton-like touch feeling cannot also be realized.
  • the ratio of the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction is greater than 70%, the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction of the yarn becomes smaller, the yarn is too stiff as a whole, and the cotton-like effect (softness) of the fabric is thus influenced.
  • the coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of the twist regions in the false-twist direction of the polyester filament is to be controlled above 60%. Therefore, in the processing process, the D/Y ratio is to be set as 1.5 to 2.5.
  • the D/Y ratio here is obtained by dividing the surface speed of stacked discs by the surface speed of the two rollers. If the D/Y ratio is less than 1.5, the untwist tension is too large, the twist regions in the false-twist direction are damaged, the distribution in the length direction is too uniform, and the coefficient of variation (C.V) is too small.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention has a fineness of 56 to 220 dtex. If the fineness is less than 56 dtex, that is, the used raw yarn is thin, in the false-twisting process in the first hot box, the excessive fusion and false-twisting phenomenon may be caused due to too thin raw yarn, and it is difficult to untwist the twist regions in the opposite direction in the untwisting process, so that the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction becomes smaller.
  • the difference in diameter between the twist regions in the false-twist direction and the twist regions in the opposite direction becomes smaller, the pore area of the formed fabric becomes smaller, and the difference in the pore area tends to be not obvious, so that it may be impossible to realize the appearance of the cotton-containing products.
  • Such a polyester filament is relatively stiff, and the formed fabric is difficult to realize the same softness as the cotton-containing products even if its slenderness is increased.
  • the insufficient fusion phenomenon may be caused due to too thick raw yarn, so that the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction becomes larger and the ratio of the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction to the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction may be less than 30%.
  • the difference in diameter between the two regions becomes larger, the pore area of the formed fabric becomes larger, and, like the cotton-containing products, the compactness tends to decrease.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention has a monofilament fineness of less than 1.30 dtex.
  • the temperature in the first hot box is set as 230 to 250°C and the D/Y ratio is set as 1.5 to 2.5, and if the monofilament fineness of the finished product polyester filament is greater than 1.30 dtex, the monofilament fineness of the raw yarn is relatively large.
  • the polyester filament obtained under these processing conditions is similar to the cotton yarn in appearance or the like, and the pore distribution of the fabric obtained from the polyester filament is also similar to that of the cotton-containing products. However, since the monofilament fineness is relatively high, it may be difficult to realize the smoothness of the cotton-containing products.
  • a polyester filament having a length of 50 cm is randomly selected, the length of 20 twist regions in the false-twist direction is then measured, and finally, the standard variance ⁇ and the average length value ⁇ are calculated (the measurement method refers to ⁇ (7) Ratio of the length of the twist regions in the false-twist direction of the polyester filament to the total length of the polyester filament ⁇ hereinafter).
  • the KES FB2 method is used.
  • the KES fabric style tester is a fabric style tester designed and manufactured by Professor Kawabata Sueo from the Kyoto University, where FB2 is a bending performance tester.
  • the KES FB4 method is used.
  • the KES fabric style tester is a fabric style tester designed and manufactured by Professor Kawabata Sueo from the Kyoto University, where FB4 is a friction and surface roughness tester.
  • the KES FB3 method is used.
  • the KES fabric style tester is a fabric style tester designed and manufactured by Professor Kawabata Sueo from the Kyoto University, where FB3 is a compression performance and thickness tester.
  • polyester filaments each having a length of 20 cm in the present invention are randomly selected from the fabric, and the diameter of the twist regions in the false-twist direction and the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction of each polyester filament are measured by a measurement tool of the KEYENCE digital system by using a digital microscope with a 50X lens from KEYENCE. Five groups of data are measured for each polyester filament, the average of specific values of each polyester filament is calculated, and the average of the total specific values of the five polyester filaments is eventually calculated.
  • polyester filaments each having a length of 50 cm in the present invention are randomly selected from the fabric, and a tension of 0.1 g/D is applied to each filament.
  • the length of the twist regions in the false-twist direction of each filament is measured by EIB-E (model: LAWSON-HEMPHILL, from LAWSON-HEMPHILL).
  • Five groups of data are measured for each polyester filament, and the average of the length ratios of each polyester filament is calculated. The average of the total length ratios of the five polyester filaments is eventually calculated.
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a monofilament number of 144. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a monofilament number of 144 and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.13 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 78%, a diameter that is 43% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 31.3% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 252 dtex and a monofilament number of 278. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 200 dtex, a monofilament number of 278 and a monofilament fineness of 0.72 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.10 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 78%, a diameter that is 40% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 22.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 71 dtex and a monofilament number of 78. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 56 dtex, a monofilament number of 78 and a monofilament fineness of 0.72 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.18 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 79%, a diameter that is 55% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 35.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a monofilament number of 144. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 232°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a monofilament number of 144 and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.10 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 77%, a diameter that is 39% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 21.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a monofilament number of 144. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 245°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a monofilament number of 144 and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.25 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 78%, a diameter that is 54% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 38.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a monofilament number of 144. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.6, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a monofilament number of 144 and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.25 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 61 %, a diameter that is 56% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 38.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a monofilament number of 144. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 2.3, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a monofilament number of 144 and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.10 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 90%, a diameter that is 38% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 21.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 169 dtex and a monofilament number of 96. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 134 dtex, a monofilament number of 96 and a monofilament fineness of 1.40 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.12 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 79%, a diameter that is 40% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 28.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 40 dtex and a monofilament number of 36. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 28 dtex, a monofilament number of 36 and a monofilament fineness of 0.78 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.31 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 78%, a diameter that is 80% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 42.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 410 dtex and a monofilament number of 288. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 250 dtex, a monofilament number of 288 and a monofilament fineness of 0.87 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.08 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 79%, a diameter that is 28% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 18.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a monofilament number of 144. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 252°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a monofilament number of 144 and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained false-twisted polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.35 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 79%, a diameter that is 78% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 42.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a monofilament number of 144. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 225°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a monofilament number of 144 and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.06 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 80%, a diameter that is 26% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 18.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Polyester chip material (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected and then melt and spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester pre-oriented yarn POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a monofilament number of 144. Then, false-twisting is performed according to the procedure of Fig. 2 at a speed of 400 m/min, a temperature of 238°C in the first hot box, an extension rate of 1.26 and a D/Y ratio of 1.3, so as to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a monofilament number of 144 and a monofilament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filament is formed from alternatingly arranged twist regions in a false-twist direction and twist regions in an opposite direction, wherein the twist regions in the false-twist direction have an average length of 0.38 cm, a coefficient of variation (C.V) of length of 55%, a diameter that is 68% of the diameter of the twist regions in the opposite direction, and a total length that is 55.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, specifically referring to Table 1.
  • C.V coefficient of variation
  • Embodiment 3 55% by weight of common false-twisted polyester yarns in 56 dtex to 78f (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 3 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72s) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 6000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 41%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.025 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 4.1 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.35 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • Embodiment 2 55% by weight of common false-twisted polyester yarns in 200 dtex to 278f (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 2 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 15000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 47%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.015 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 3.0 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.80 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • Embodiment 7 35% by weight of common false-twisted polyester yarns in 100 dtex to 144f (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 65% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 7 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 14000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 51%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.024 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 3.8 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.75 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • 35% by weight of common false-twisted polyester yarns in 100 dtex to 144f (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 65% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 6 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 13000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 48%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.034 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 4.9 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.30 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • 100% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 3 are knitted, in a double-yarn merging manner, by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 6900 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 58%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.045 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 6.0 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.20 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • 100% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 2 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a gray fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 22000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 63%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.037 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 5.1 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.50 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • 100% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 8 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 19000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 64%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.046 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 6.3 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.48 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 4600 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 30%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.012 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 2.1 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.36 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 12000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 35%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.008 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 1.8 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.85 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • Embodiment 1 55% by weight of common false-twisted polyester yarns in 28 dtex to 36f (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 1 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 4200 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 27%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.030 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 5.0 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.18 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • Embodiment 2 55% by weight of common false-twisted polyester yarns in 250 dtex to 288f (produced by Toray Fiber(Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 2 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 25000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 51%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.007 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 1.6 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.90 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
  • 100% by weight of the polyester filaments obtained in Embodiment 6 are knitted by plain stitch on a single-sided circular knitting machine to obtain a grey fabric, and the grey fabric is then refined (80°C ⁇ 20min), dyed (98°C ⁇ 30min), sized (160°C ⁇ 72S) and fluffed to obtain the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the obtained fabric has a pore area distribution centered on 8000 ⁇ m 2 , a statistical variability of above 2 ⁇ , a coefficient of variation (C.V) of the pore area of 25%, a bending rigidity (B) of 0.050 N • cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 7.1 ⁇ and a compression energy (WC) of 0.15 N • cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric refer to Table 2.
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TW201932657A (zh) 2019-08-16
US20180237960A1 (en) 2018-08-23
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CN107109722A (zh) 2017-08-29
CN105734805A (zh) 2016-07-06
JP6577593B2 (ja) 2019-09-18
CN107109722B (zh) 2019-09-06
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