WO2016091203A1 - 一种仿棉针织面料、涤纶长丝及其生产方法 - Google Patents

一种仿棉针织面料、涤纶长丝及其生产方法 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016091203A1
WO2016091203A1 PCT/CN2015/097077 CN2015097077W WO2016091203A1 WO 2016091203 A1 WO2016091203 A1 WO 2016091203A1 CN 2015097077 W CN2015097077 W CN 2015097077W WO 2016091203 A1 WO2016091203 A1 WO 2016091203A1
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Prior art keywords
fabric
cotton
polyester
polyester filament
filament
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PCT/CN2015/097077
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
翁佛全
张晴
梁海燕
范宏伟
管其兵
Original Assignee
东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
东丽合成纤维（南通）有限公司
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Application filed by 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司, 东丽合成纤维（南通）有限公司 filed Critical 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司
Priority to CN201580062496.8A priority Critical patent/CN107109722B/zh
Priority to US15/534,926 priority patent/US20180237960A1/en
Priority to KR1020177019326A priority patent/KR20170102888A/ko
Priority to EP15866696.6A priority patent/EP3231912A4/en
Priority to JP2017549574A priority patent/JP6577593B2/ja
Publication of WO2016091203A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016091203A1/zh

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0206—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting
    • D02G1/0266—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist by false-twisting false-twisting machines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/06—Non-run fabrics or articles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/0005—Materials specially adapted for outerwear made from a plurality of interconnected elements
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/10—Knitted
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F6/88—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds
    • D01F6/92—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds of polyesters
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/02—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist
    • D02G1/0286—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns
    • D02G1/0293—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by twisting, fixing the twist and backtwisting, i.e. by imparting false twist characterised by the use of certain filaments, fibres or yarns composed, at least in part, of natural fibres

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cotton-like knitted fabric, a polyester filament and a production method thereof, in particular to a cotton-like knitted fabric suitable for making a T-shirt and a polyester filament used as a raw material thereof.
  • a cotton-like knitted fabric and a production method thereof are disclosed in the patent document CN103898670A, which is obtained by mixing a pure polyester spun yarn, a polyester-cotton spun yarn and a spandex, and the knitted fabric is processed by a high-temperature alkali reduction process.
  • a good soft feeling and a strong cotton sensation greatly improve the water absorption and quick-drying property, and improve the shortage of chemical fiber fabrics when wearing, but the high-temperature alkali reduction treatment dissolves the hairiness of the fabric surface and reduces The hairiness of the fabric, and the high processing temperature, requires the use of caustic soda, can not achieve the purpose of "energy saving and emission reduction", and increase the processing cost; in addition, most of the raw materials used for weaving are short fibers, which will affect the breathability and bursting strength of the fabric.
  • a jacquard air layer super imitation cotton suction is disclosed.
  • the effect and water absorption and quick drying are excellent, but since the Porel fiber used is a special functional fiber, the content is relatively high, which increases the production cost.
  • a processed yarn which is soft in hand and has a concave and convex surface is obtained by melt-blending a polyester filament, and the fabric obtained therefrom has a gritty feeling and a hollow feeling, but due to the yarn
  • the coefficient of variation of the length of the false twist zone is too small, the distribution of the pore area of the obtained fabric is uniform, the gloss is strong, and the appearance and feel of the cotton product are not provided; and a polyester partial melting wire is disclosed in the patent document No. 2000-303287.
  • the crotch in the direction of the false twist, the untwisted crimping portion, and the crotch in the untwisting direction alternately, the surface of the yarn is substantially invisible, and the gloss is reduced, thereby solving the unevenness of the fabric of the felt fabric and Rough hand feel, but it is difficult to control the flawless crimping part between the crotch and the crotch direction in the direction of the false twist.
  • the processing is cumbersome and costly, and the fabric made from it is strong and cannot be matched with Cotton products are comparable in feel and appearance.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a polyester filament which is simple in processing, soft to the touch, and strong in natural fiber, and has excellent effect on the imitation cotton obtained therefrom, and has good gas permeability, burst strength, and water absorption and quick drying. Sexual cotton woven fabric with UV resistance.
  • the imitation cotton knitted fabric of the present invention is a weft knitted fabric knitted from a woven raw material comprising at least 45% by weight or more of polyester filament; the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered on 6000 to 22000 ⁇ m 2 and dispersed above 2 ⁇ . And the coefficient of variation of the pore area is greater than 40%.
  • the polyester filament of the invention is alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the false twist direction is 0.3 cm or less, the coefficient of variation is 60% or more, and the diameter is the diameter of the opposite direction. 30% to 70%, and the total length of the false twist direction in the polyester filament is 20.0% to 40.0% of the total length of the polyester filament.
  • the distribution of the pore area of the cotton-like knitted fabric of the invention is consistent with that of the cotton-containing product, and has the appearance of the cotton-containing product; and because the polyester filament is used as the main raw material, it has good gas permeability compared with the short-fiber product (JISL1096-2010) Standard A method: 75 ⁇ 150cm 3 /cm 2 / s) and burst strength (JISL1096-2010 standard: 700kpa or more); superior water absorption and quick drying compared with cotton products (Kecken method: residual moisture rate after 60min
  • the diameter of the polyester filament used in the present invention is uneven, the diffuse reflection effect of the fabric is improved, and the polyester itself has an ultraviolet ring-resistant aromatic ring molecular structure, so the fabric has excellent ultraviolet resistance (Australia) Standard AS/NZS4399-1996: UPF value is above 45).
  • the fabric of the present invention is particularly suitable for use in making T-shirts and the like.
  • the method for processing the polyester filament of the present invention is simple and
  • FIG. 1 is a side view showing the longitudinal direction of a polyester filament of the present invention. Among them: 1 is the false ⁇ direction ⁇ area, 2 is the reverse direction ⁇ area, and 3 is the false ⁇ direction ⁇ area.
  • FIG. 2 is a flow chart showing the processing of the polyester filament of the present invention.
  • 4 is polyester pre-oriented yarn POY
  • 5 is the first roller
  • 6 is the first hot box
  • 7 is the false twister
  • 8 is the moving sliver
  • 9 is the 2nd roller
  • 10 is the 2nd hot box
  • 12 is a polyester filament (DTY)
  • 13 is a take-up drum.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is a weft knitted fabric knitted from a woven raw material comprising at least 45% by weight or more of polyester filaments, and the pore area distribution is centered on 6000 to 22000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed in 2 ⁇ or more, and the pore area is The coefficient of variation is greater than 40%.
  • the polyester filament fabric has superior properties such as gas permeability and burst strength as compared with the polyester staple fiber fabric, and thus is used as the weaving raw material of the present invention.
  • it is considered as a woven structure of the present invention in view of the fact that the weft-knitted structure has better elasticity and softer comfort than other types of tissues.
  • the woven raw material used in the present invention when the content of the polyester filament used is less than 45%, the pores of the fabric are reduced, the gas permeability is lowered, and the wearing comfort is affected; and the appearance of the cotton-like product is not obtained, and the pore area thereof is not obtained.
  • the distribution center is not in the range of 6000 to 22000 ⁇ m 2 .
  • the pore area distribution of the fabric is centered on 6000 to 22000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , and the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is more than 40%, which is consistent with the appearance effect of the cotton-containing product.
  • CV coefficient of variation
  • the center of the pore area distribution of the fabric is greater than 22000 ⁇ m 2 , it means that the pores of the fabric become larger, the fabric is too loose, and the requirements of the waist and the thick feeling of the cotton-containing product cannot be achieved. If the pore area is dispersed within 2 ⁇ and the coefficient of variation of the pore area of the fabric is less than 40%, the pore size of the fabric is uniform, the unevenness is weak, and the gloss of the fabric is relatively strong (that is, the chemical fiber is strong), which is lower than that of the cotton-containing product. The gloss is contrary.
  • the polyester filament content used in the present invention It is preferably 100%.
  • a polyester spun yarn such as a polyester spun yarn or a natural fiber may be used in combination with the polyester filament yarn used in the present invention to achieve the effect of imitation cotton.
  • the polyester filament used in the present invention is alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the false twist direction has an average length of 0.3 cm or less, a length coefficient of variation of 60% or more, and a diameter of opposite.
  • the direction of the direction of the crotch region is 30% to 70%, and the total length of the false twist zone in the polyester filament is 20.0% to 40.0% of the total length of the polyester filament.
  • Such polyester filaments not only have an appearance, but also have properties similar to those of cotton spinning.
  • the false twist direction refers to the untwisted portion of the yarn
  • the reverse direction refers to the untwisted portion of the yarn.
  • the proportion of the false twist direction in the yarn length direction increases, and the yarn becomes relatively thin and hard, although it is made by the same.
  • the texture of the obtained fabric has an increased lumbar sensation, but the hand feels harder.
  • the coefficient of variation (CV) of the length is less than 60%, the distribution of the pore area of the fabric obtained by the invention has a tendency to become uniform, and there is a possibility that the effect of the imitation cotton is weakened, and it is difficult to obtain the imitation cotton. Exterior.
  • the polyester filament used in the present invention has a smaller ratio of the diameter of the false twisting direction to the diameter of the twisted area in the opposite direction, that is, the larger the difference between the diameter of the false twisting direction and the diameter of the opposite direction, the larger the fabric pores.
  • the more uneven the area distribution the closer the appearance of the fabric is to the cotton-containing product; however, if the ratio of the diameter of the false twist zone to the diameter of the twisted zone is less than 30%, the diameter and the opposite direction of the false twist zone are opposite.
  • the difference in diameter of the area is too large, which may cause the pores of the fabric to be too large, and the denseness is lowered, which affects the effect of imitation cotton.
  • the ratio of the diameter of the zone is greater than 70%, the difference between the diameter of the false twist zone and the diameter of the reverse turn zone may be small, which may cause the pore distribution of the fabric to be too uniform and affect the appearance of the imitation cotton; in addition, it may also result in The diameter of the false twist zone in the opposite direction of the yarn is reduced, so that the softness of the fabric is lowered.
  • the polyester filaments used in the present invention have a total fineness of 56 to 220 dtex.
  • the total fineness is less than 56dtex, the void area of the fabric obtained by the fabric becomes smaller, the difference of the pore area is reduced, and the thickness of the fabric is thinned, and there is a possibility that the appearance of the imitation cotton and the hand feeling are weakened; and when the total fineness is more than 220 dtex, The pores of the obtained fabric become large, and it is impossible to obtain a dense feeling like a cotton product, and the fabric is too thick, and the imitation cotton effect is poor.
  • the monofilament fineness of the polyester filament used in the present invention is preferably less than 1.3 dtex. If the single-filament fineness is more than 1.3dtex, it may affect the delicate feel of the fabric and reduce the imitation cotton effect.
  • the fabric of the invention is obtained by combining the above-mentioned polyester filaments or the two polyester filaments, and then kneading, refining, dyeing and shaping, so as to ensure the uniformity of the fabric and the pore distribution. If 56-100 dtex of the above polyester filament is used, it can be woven by double feeding; if 100-220 dtex of the above polyester filament is used, Weaving can be done with a single feed.
  • the cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably obtained through a wool processing project.
  • the equipment used for the raising process is not particularly limited, and an Italian Sperotto sanding machine can be used, with a speed of 5 to 30 m/min, a tension of 0.4 to 0.6 MPa, and a mesh number of 160 to 240 #.
  • the cotton-like knit fabric of the present invention has a bending rigidity (B) of 0.015 to 0.045 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, a surface roughness (SMD) of 3 to 6 ⁇ , and a compression specific work (WC) of 0.2 to 0.8 N ⁇ cm. /cm 2 , these properties are consistent with the cotton T-shirt fabrics sold on the market.
  • the invention solves the technical difficulty that the ordinary polyester filament cotton fabric has the same surface roughness as the cotton-containing product, and the bending rigidity and the compression ratio work cannot meet the requirements of the cotton product.
  • the bending stiffness here refers to the rigidness of the fabric, which reflects the waist-feel of the fabric.
  • the surface roughness refers to the flatness of the surface of the fabric. Small means that the fabric feels smooth, and vice versa; compression specific work refers to the fluffy feel of the fabric. The larger the value, the more fluffy the fabric.
  • the weave structure is not particularly limited, and in order to impart a certain dense feeling to the fabric, a flat needle structure or a bead structure or the like may be used, and a flat needle structure is preferable.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention can be obtained by the following method: the polyester pre-oriented yarn POY is heated into the first hot box after passing through the first roller according to the process of FIG. 2, and then introduced into the false twister and the second roller in turn.
  • the second hot box and the third roller obtain a product; wherein the temperature in the first hot box is 230 to 250 ° C; and the D/Y ratio is 1.5 to 2.5.
  • the speed is not limited, but it is preferably 300 to 500 m/min for convenience of handling; the stretching ratio is not limited, but is preferably 1.10 to 2.00 for convenient handling.
  • the polyester pre-oriented yarn POY used in the foregoing process can be obtained by a method known in the art, for example, by melt-spinning using a commercially available polyester chip raw material.
  • the speed of the melt spinning can be suitably set, and it is preferably carried out at a speed of 2,500 to 3,500 m/min.
  • the fineness and the number of filaments of the obtained polyester pre-oriented yarn POY are not particularly limited, but in order to obtain a polyester filament suitable for use in the present invention, the fineness of the polyester pre-oriented yarn POY is preferably 70 to 280 dtex, and the number of filaments is preferably 70 to 280.
  • the ratio of the total length to the total length of the polyester filament will be less than 20 %, the softness of the fabric made by it is improved, the lumbar sensation is weakened, and the feeling of imitation cotton cannot be obtained; and the ratio of the diameter of the sacral zone in the opposite direction of the false twist is also less than 30%, and the diameter of the two regions is The difference becomes larger, which makes the distribution of the pore area of the fabric more uneven, but at the same time, the partial pore area in the fabric is too large, and the same dense feeling as the cotton product cannot be achieved.
  • the average length of the false twist zone is more than 0.3 cm, and the total length of the filament is more than 40% of the total length of the filament. The feeling is improved, but the softness is greatly reduced, and the feeling of imitation cotton is also not obtained. If the ratio of the diameter of the false twist zone to the diameter of the reverse zone is greater than 70%, the diameter of the false twist zone in the opposite direction of the yarn becomes smaller, and the overall yarn is too stiff, which affects the cotton-like effect of the fabric (softness). ).
  • the coefficient of variation (CV) of the length of the false twist direction of the polyester filament yarn needs to be controlled to be more than 60%, so the D/Y ratio needs to be set to 1.5 to 2.5 during the processing. .
  • the D/Y ratio here refers to the surface speed of the stacked disc divided by the surface speed of the 2 roller. If the D/Y ratio is less than 1.5, the untwisting tension is too large, and the false twist direction is destroyed. The length distribution becomes too uniform, resulting in a coefficient of variation (CV) that is too small.
  • the coefficient of variation (CV) is less than 60%, the distribution of the pore area of the fabric produced by the fabric has a tendency to become uniform, and the effect of the cotton knot is weakened. The appearance of the cotton-containing product may not be obtained; and if the D/Y ratio is more than 2.5, the untwisting tension is too small, and the yarn quality cannot be guaranteed.
  • the polyester filament of the present invention has a fineness of 56 to 220 dtex. If the fineness is less than 56dtex, that is to say, the raw material wire used is relatively thin, in the process of the first hot box false twisting, the raw material filament may be too fine to cause excessive melting false twist phenomenon, which makes the reverse direction of the twisting process difficult to solve. ⁇ , the diameter of the ⁇ , the difference between the diameter of the false ⁇ direction and the ⁇ area of the reverse direction becomes smaller, and the pore area of the fabric formed by the yoke becomes smaller, and the difference in the area of the pores tends to become inconspicuous, which may be difficult Obtaining the appearance of the cotton-containing product; in addition, it may cause the average length of the false twist zone to be greater than 0.3 cm, and the total length of the total length of the filament is more than 40%, such a polyester filament feel It will be harder, and the fabric formed by the fabric will be improved, but it is difficult to obtain a soft feeling like a cotton product.
  • the raw material wire used is relatively thick.
  • the raw material wire may be too thick, which may cause insufficient melting, so that the diameter of the false twisting zone will be reversed.
  • the ratio of the diameter of the false ⁇ direction to the diameter of the ⁇ area may be less than 30%, then the difference in diameter between the two areas becomes larger, and the pore area of the fabric formed by it becomes larger.
  • the denseness of cotton-containing products tends to decrease; in addition, it is also possible that the total length of the false-twisting direction is less than 20% of the total length of the filaments, and the fabrics obtained therefrom are difficult to obtain.
  • the lumbar sensation of cotton products is more than 220dtex, that is, the raw material wire used is relatively thick.
  • the raw material wire may be too thick, which may cause insufficient melting, so that the diameter of the false twisting zone will be reversed.
  • the ratio of the diameter of the false ⁇ direction to the diameter of the ⁇ area may be less than 30%, then the difference in diameter between the two areas becomes
  • the polyester filament of the present invention has a single filament fineness of 1.30 dtex or less.
  • D / Y ratio is set to 1.5 ⁇ 2.5, if the final product
  • the monofilament fineness of the polyester filament is more than 1.30 dtex, the single yarn fineness of the raw material yarn is relatively large, and the appearance of the polyester filament obtained by the above processing conditions is close to that of the cotton yarn, and the pore distribution of the fabric obtained by the same is also
  • the cotton-containing products are similar, but due to the relatively high fineness of the monofilament, the delicate feeling of the cotton-containing product may be difficult to obtain.
  • test methods of each parameter involved in the present invention are as follows:
  • the threshold is too small or too large, the actual pore size of the sample cannot be covered.
  • the threshold is too small, the measured pore area is smaller than the actual area; when it is too large, the measured pore area is larger than the actual area;
  • polyester filaments were randomly selected, and then the lengths of 20 groups of false twist directions were measured. Finally, the standard deviation ⁇ and the length average ⁇ were calculated. (For the test method, refer to "(7) Polyester filaments on the false ⁇ The ratio of the length of the direction zone to the total length of the polyester filament").
  • the KES fabric style instrument is a fabric style instrument designed and manufactured by Dr. Kawabata Hiroshi, a professor at Kyoto University, Japan, in which FB2 is a bending performance tester.
  • the KES fabric style instrument is a fabric style instrument designed and manufactured by Dr. Kawabata Hiroshi, a professor at Kyoto University, Japan, where FB4 is a friction and surface roughness tester.
  • the KES fabric style instrument is a fabric style instrument designed and manufactured by Dr. Kawabata Hiroshi, a professor at Kyoto University, Japan, where FB3 is a compression performance and thickness tester.
  • the softness of the filament it is divided into four grades of excellent, good, medium and poor. Among them, 15 or more people think that the filament is soft, it is excellent, 10 to 14 people are good, 5 to 10 are medium, and less than 5 are bad.
  • Polyester slicing material Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
  • the process was subjected to false twisting at a speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, a stretching ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, and the obtained fineness was 100 dtex, the number of filaments was 144, and the single yarn fineness was obtained.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the false twist direction has an average length of 0.13 cm, a length coefficient of variation (CV) of 78%, and a diameter of the opposite direction.
  • the total length of the 43%, false twisting direction is 31.3% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester POY having a fineness of 252 dtex and a number of filaments of 278; The process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, a draw ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a fineness of 200 dtex, a number of filaments of 278, and a monofilament. Polyester filament with a fineness of 0.72 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.10 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 78%, and the diameter is the diameter of the opposite direction.
  • the total length of the 40%, false twist direction zone is 22.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
  • the process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, a stretching ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a fineness of 56 dtex, a number of filaments of 78, and a monofilament.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the average length of the false twist direction is 0.18 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 79%, and the diameter is the diameter of the reverse direction.
  • the total length of the 55%, false twist direction zone is 35.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material (Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a filament number of 144; The process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 232 ° C, a draw ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of filaments of 144, and a monofilament. Polyester filament with a fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.10 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 77%, and the diameter is the opposite direction.
  • the total length of the % and false twist directions is 21.0% of the total length of the polyester filaments. See Table 1 for details.
  • Polyester slicing material (Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester with a fineness of 128 dtex and a filament count of 144.
  • Polystyrene POY then according to the process of Figure 2, the speed is 400m / min, the first hot box temperature is 245 ° C, the stretching ratio is 1.26, the D / Y ratio is 1.9 processing conditions, false twist processing, to obtain a fineness of 100dtex, A polyester filament having a filament number of 144 and a single filament fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.25 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 78%, and the diameter is the diameter of the opposite direction.
  • the total length of the 54%, false twisting direction is 38.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
  • the process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, a stretching ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.6, to obtain a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of filaments of 144, and a monofilament.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.25 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 61%, and the diameter is the diameter of the reverse direction.
  • the total length of the 56% and false twist direction is 38.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material (Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a filament number of 144; The process is at a speed of 400 m/min, the first hot box temperature The processing conditions of 238 ° C, the stretching ratio of 1.26, and the D/Y ratio of 2.3 were subjected to false twist processing to obtain a polyester filament having a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of filaments of 144, and a single yarn fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.10 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 90%, and the diameter is the reverse direction.
  • the total length of the % and false twist directions is 21.0% of the total length of the polyester filaments. See Table 1 for details.
  • Polyester slicing material manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
  • Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd. was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester POY having a fineness of 169 dtex and a number of filaments of 96;
  • the process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, a draw ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a fineness of 134 dtex, a number of filaments of 96, and a monofilament.
  • Polyester filament with a fineness of 1.40 dtex was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester POY having a fineness of 169 dtex and a number of filaments of 96;
  • the process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.12 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 79%, and the diameter is the diameter of the reverse direction.
  • the total length of the 40%, false twist direction zone is 28.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester POY having a fineness of 40 dtex and a number of filaments of 36; The process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, a draw ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a fineness of 28 dtex, a number of filaments of 36, and a monofilament. Polyester filament with a fineness of 0.78 dtex
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.31 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 78%, and the diameter is the reverse direction.
  • the total length of the % and false twist directions is 42.0% of the total length of the polyester filaments. See Table 1 for details.
  • Polyester slicing material Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
  • the process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, a stretching ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a fineness of 250 dtex, a number of filaments of 288, and a monofilament.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.08 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 79%, and the diameter is the diameter of the reverse direction.
  • the total length of the 28%, false twist direction ⁇ zone is 18.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material (Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a filament number of 144; The process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 252 ° C, a draw ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of filaments of 144, and a monofilament. Polyester filament with a fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester false twisted filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the false twist direction has an average length of 0.35 cm and a length coefficient of variation (C.V) of 79%.
  • the diameter is 78% of the diameter of the crotch region in the opposite direction, and the total length of the crotch region in the false twist direction is 42.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.
  • the process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 225 ° C, a stretching ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.9, to obtain a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of filaments of 144, and a monofilament.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.06 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 80%, and the diameter is the diameter of the reverse direction.
  • the total length of the 26% and false twisting direction is 18.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Polyester slicing material (Dongli Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected and melt-spun at a speed of 2800 m/min to obtain a polyester POY having a fineness of 128 dtex and a filament number of 144; The process was subjected to false twisting at a processing speed of 400 m/min, a first hot box temperature of 238 ° C, a stretching ratio of 1.26, and a D/Y ratio of 1.3, to obtain a fineness of 100 dtex, a number of filaments of 144, and a monofilament. Polyester filament with a fineness of 0.69 dtex.
  • the obtained polyester filaments are alternately formed by the false twist direction and the reverse direction, wherein the mean length of the false twist direction is 0.38 cm, the length coefficient of variation (CV) is 55%, and the diameter is the diameter of the opposite direction.
  • the total length of the 68%, false twisting direction is 55.0% of the total length of the polyester filament, as shown in Table 1.
  • Example 3 55 wt% of a 56 dtex-78f ordinary polyester false twisted textured yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of the polyester filament of Example 3 were used for woven on a single-sided circular knitting machine. A grey fabric was obtained, followed by refining (80 ° C ⁇ 20 min), dyeing (98 ° C ⁇ 30 min), setting (160 ° C ⁇ 72 sec), and raising processing to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 6000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 41%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.025 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 4.1 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.35 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 2 55 wt% of 200 dtex-278f ordinary polyester false twisted textured yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 45% by weight of the polyester filament of Example 2 were obtained by plain knitting on a single-sided circular knitting machine. The fabric was then subjected to refining (80 ° C ⁇ 20 min), dyeing (98 ° C ⁇ 30 min), setting (160 ° C ⁇ 72 S), and raising to obtain the imitation cotton knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 15000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 47%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.015 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 3.0 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.80 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • a 35% by weight 100 dtex-144f ordinary polyester false twisted textured yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 65% by weight of the polyester filament of Example 7 were used in one-side circular knitting.
  • the jersey flat knitting fabric was obtained to obtain a grey fabric, and then refined (80 ° C ⁇ 20 min), dyed (98 ° C ⁇ 30 min), and shaped (160 ° C ⁇ 72 S) to obtain the imitation cotton knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered on 14000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 51%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.024 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 3.8 ⁇ and compression specific work (WC) were 0.75 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • a 3 wt% 100 dtex-144f ordinary polyester false twisted textured yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 65% by weight of the polyester filament of Example 6 were used to obtain a flat needle weave on a single-sided circular knitting machine.
  • the grey cloth was then subjected to refining (80 ° C ⁇ 20 min), dyeing (98 ° C ⁇ 30 min), and styling (160 ° C ⁇ 72 S) to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 13000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 48%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.034 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 4.9 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.30 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 6900 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 58%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.045 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 6.0 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.20 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • the wool processing fabric of the present invention is obtained by raising the wool.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 22000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 63%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.037 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 5.1 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.50 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 8 100% by weight of the polyester filament of Example 8 was selected, and the fabric was obtained by flat knitting on a single-sided circular knitting machine, followed by refining (80 ° C ⁇ 20 min), dyeing (98 ° C ⁇ 30 min), and setting (160 ° C ⁇ 72S) ), the wool processing to obtain imitation cotton knitted fabric.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered on 19000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 64%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.046 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 6.3 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.48 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 3 60% by weight of 56dtex-78f ordinary polyester false twisted textured yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 40% by weight of the polyester filament of Example 3 were obtained by plain knitting on a single-sided circular knitting machine. Grey fabric, then refined (80 ° C ⁇ 20 min), dyed (98 ° C ⁇ 30min), stereotyped (160 ° C ⁇ 72S), raised fabric to obtain imitation cotton knitted fabric.
  • Example 2 60% by weight of 200dtex-278f ordinary polyester false twisted textured yarn (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) and 40% by weight of the polyester filament of Example 2 were obtained by plain knitting on a single-sided circular knitting machine. The grey fabric was then refined (80 ° C ⁇ 20 min), dyed (98 ° C ⁇ 30 min), shaped (160 ° C ⁇ 72 S), and raised to obtain a cotton-like knitted fabric.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 12000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 35%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.008 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 1.8 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.85 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric was centered at 4200 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area was 27%, the bending stiffness (B) was 0.030 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) was 5.0 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.18 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabrics are shown in Table 2.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric was centered at 25000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area was 51%, the bending stiffness (B) was 0.007 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) was 1.6 ⁇ , compression specific work (WC) was 0.90 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • the pore area distribution of the obtained fabric is centered at 8000 ⁇ m 2 , dispersed above 2 ⁇ , the coefficient of variation (CV) of the pore area is 25%, the bending stiffness (B) is 0.050 N ⁇ cm 2 /cm, and the surface roughness (SMD) is 7.1 ⁇ and compression specific work (WC) were 0.15 N ⁇ cm/cm 2 .
  • the performance parameters of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2.
  • Example 1 Example 2 and Example 3 that the higher the total fineness, the shorter the average length of the false twist direction region, the smaller the proportion on the filament, and the opposite direction.
  • the same polyester yarn POY is processed at the same false twist speed, the first hot box temperature and the stretching ratio, and the higher the D/Y ratio, the obtained polyester
  • Example 8 As can be seen from Example 8, when the single yarn fineness exceeds 1.3 dtex, although the appearance of the yarn and various performance indexes are close to those of the cotton spun yarn, the yarn feel is deteriorated.
  • Example 9 and Example 13 Example 10 and Example 14 that under the same fineness, the content of the yarn 2 increases, the pore area of the fabric becomes larger, and the coefficient of variation of the pore area distribution becomes larger; The rigidity becomes larger, the surface roughness becomes larger, and the compression specific work becomes smaller, that is, the imitation cotton effect becomes stronger.
  • Example 11 and Example 12 It can be seen from Example 11 and Example 12 that the smaller the diameter ratio of the yarn 2 and the larger the coefficient of variation of the length of the false twist zone, the larger the pore size of the fabric, and the larger the coefficient of variation of the pore area of the fabric. That is, the more uneven the distribution; in addition, the length of the false twisting direction is shortened, the proportion is reduced, the softness of the fabric is increased, the bending rigidity is reduced, the surface roughness is decreased, and the compression specific work is increased, that is, the bulkiness is increased.
  • Example 9 It can be seen from Example 9 and Example 10 that the larger the fineness of the yarn 2, the smaller the diameter ratio, the larger the pore area of the fabric, the larger the coefficient of variation of the pore area, that is, the more uneven the distribution; The shorter the average length of the zone, the smaller the proportion, the smaller the bending stiffness of the fabric, the smaller the surface roughness, and the smaller the compression specific work, the larger the bulkiness.
  • Example 15 It can be seen from Example 15 that although the pore distribution of the fabric is close to that of the cotton-containing product, since the single-filament fineness of the yarn 2 exceeds 1.3 dtex, the surface roughness of the fabric is relatively large, which affects the imitation cotton effect.

Abstract

一种仿棉针织面料、涤纶长丝及其生产方法。该面料为由包含至少45％重量以上的涤纶长丝的编织原料编织而成的纬编针织物；该面料的孔隙面积分布以6000～22000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，且孔隙面积的变异系数大于40％。该涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区（1，3）和反方向捻区（2）交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区（1，3）的平均长度为0.3cm以下、长度变异系数为60％以上、直径为反方向捻区（2）直径的30％～70％、且总长度为该涤纶长丝总长度的20.0％～40.0％。该针织面料具有极强的棉质手感，而且具有良好的透气性、破裂强度、吸水速干性和抗紫外线能力。

Description

一种仿棉针织面料、涤纶长丝及其生产方法 技术领域
本发明涉及一种仿棉针织面料、涤纶长丝及其生产方法，具体涉及一种适合制作T恤的仿棉针织面料及作为其原料使用的涤纶长丝。
背景技术
目前，市场上的针织T恤大多以棉纤维为主，相对化纤T恤来说，具有良好的柔软性和吸水性两大优点，但是在使用过程中，棉产品的缺点也逐渐暴露出来，如透气性与速干性都比较差等。另外，随着市场需求量的不断增加，棉纤维的供给存在一定的压力，同时棉花的种植容易受气候的影响，使得棉原材料的供给存在很大的不稳定性。因此，使用化纤代替棉纤维，生产出具有棉的优点、且又能解决棉缺点的仿棉针织面料是非常有必要的。
目前，关于仿棉针织面料的研究也是比较多的。如专利文献CN103898670A中公开了一种仿棉针织面料及其生产方法，通过使用纯涤纶短纤纱、涤棉短纤纱与氨纶进行混编，编成的面料经过高温碱减量工序处理，获得了良好的柔软感及较强的棉感，大大提高了吸水速干性性，改善了化纤面料在穿着时会产生“闷”的不足，但是高温碱减量处理会溶解面料表面的毛羽，降低面料的毛羽感，而且处理温度高，需要使用烧碱，不能实现“节能减排”的目的，增加了加工成本；另外，编织所用原材料大部分是短纤维，会影响面料的透气性以及破裂强度。
又如专利文献CN102517775A中公开了一种提花空气层超仿棉吸 湿发热针织面料，至少使用由Porel纤维(毛细管涤纶长纤维)和纤维素纤维形成的混纺纱线，且该混纺纱中纤维素纤维的含量为50％～60％，因此所得针织面料仿棉效果及吸水速干性都非常优越，但是由于所用Porel纤维属于特殊的功能性纤维，含量相对较高，增加了生产成本。
另外，目前也有通过对涤纶长丝进行假捻加工处理，使纱线具有一定天然纤维风格的技术。如专利文献CN103603113A中公开了一种通过对涤纶长丝进行融着假捻而得到手感柔软且表面具有凹凸感的加工丝，由其制得的面料具有砂砾感、镂空感，但是由于纱线的假捻方向捻区长度的变异系数过小，所得面料孔隙面积分布均匀，光泽感强，不具有棉制品外观及手感；又如专利文献特开2000-303287中公开了一种涤纶部分融着丝，假捻方向的捻部、无捻的卷缩部、解捻方向的捻部交替存在，纱线表面基本看不出粗节，光泽感降低，解决了麻感面料的布面不均一性以及粗糙的手感，但是要控制假捻方向的捻部和解捻方向的捻部中间存在无捻的卷缩部比较困难，加工繁琐、成本高，而且由其制得的面料麻感强，不能具备与棉制品媲美的手感及外观。
发明内容
针对以上问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种加工简单、手感柔软、天然纤维感强的涤纶长丝，以及由其制得的仿棉效果优越且具有良好的透气性、破裂强度、吸水速干性以及抗紫外线能力的仿棉针织面料。
本发明的技术解决方案：
本发明的仿棉针织面料，为由包含至少45重量％以上的涤纶长丝的编织原料编织而成的纬编针织物；该面料的孔隙面积分布以6000～ 22000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，且孔隙面积的变异系数大于40％。
本发明的涤纶长丝，由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.3cm以下、变异系数为60％以上、直径为反方向捻区直径的30％～70％、且该涤纶长丝中假捻方向捻区的总长度为该涤纶长丝总长度的20.0％～40.0％。
本发明的仿棉针织面料的孔隙面积分布与含棉产品一致，具有含棉产品的外观；同时由于采用涤纶长丝作为主要原料，与短纤维产品相比又具有良好的透气性(JISL1096-2010标准A法：75～150cm3/cm2/s)及破裂强度(JISL1096-2010标准：700kpa以上)；与含棉产品相比具有优越的吸水速干性(科肯法：60min后残留水分率为10％以下)；再者，由于本发明所用涤纶长丝的直径不均一提高了面料的漫反射效果，而且涤纶本身就具有抗紫外线的芳香环分子结构，因此面料的抗紫外性能优良(澳大利亚标准AS/NZS4399-1996：UPF值为45以上)。本发明的面料尤其适合用于制作T恤等。另外，本发明的涤纶长丝的加工方法简单易行，手感柔软，天然纤维感强。
附图说明
图1是本发明的涤纶长丝的长方向侧面形态图。其中：1为假捻方向捻区，2为反方向捻区，3为假捻方向捻区。
图2是本发明的涤纶长丝的加工流程图。其中4为涤纶预取向丝POY，5为第1罗拉，6为第1热箱，7为假捻器，8为移动中的纱条，9为第2罗拉，10为第2热箱，11为第3罗拉，12为涤纶长丝(加弹加工丝DTY)，13为卷取筒。
具体实施方式
本发明的针织面料为由包含至少45重量％以上的涤纶长丝的编织原料编织而成的纬编针织物，其孔隙面积分布以6000～22000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，且孔隙面积的变异系数大于40％。
考虑到化学纤维中涤纶长丝加工简单、成本低廉；相较于涤纶短纤面料，涤纶长丝面料的透气性、破裂强度等性能都较为优越，因此作为本发明的编织原料。另外，考虑到纬编组织相较于其他类型的组织具有更好的弹性及柔软舒适性，因此作为本发明的编织组织。
用于本发明的编织原料中，所用涤纶长丝的含量小于45％的话，面料的孔隙减小，透气性会降低，影响穿着舒适性；而且，不能获得仿含棉产品的外观，其孔隙面积的分布中心不在6000～22000μm2内。
本发明中，面料的孔隙面积分布以6000～22000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，且孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)大于40％，与含棉产品的外观效果一致。当面料的孔隙面积分布中心小于6000μm2时，说明面料的孔隙变小、紧密程度变大，面料手感过硬而导致棉感降低；此外，面料过于紧密时面料的透气性减小、弹性减弱，大大降低了穿着舒适性。当面料的孔隙面积分布中心大于22000μm2时，说明面料的孔隙变大，面料过于疏松，无法达到含棉产品的腰骨感、厚实感的要求。如果孔隙面积分散在2σ以内、面料孔隙面积变异系数小于40％的话，说明面料孔隙大小均匀，凹凸感弱，面料的光泽感比较强(即化纤感强)，这与含棉产品所具有的低光泽感相违背。
为使面料的孔隙分布更接近于含棉产品，本发明所用涤纶长丝含量 优选为100％。所用的涤纶长丝含量越大，孔隙面积的分布越不均匀，越能模仿纯棉短纤面料的外观及手感。当然本发明中也可采用如涤纶短纤纱、天然纤维的短纤纱等与本发明所用涤纶长丝交编从而达到仿棉的效果。
优选，本发明所用的涤纶长丝，由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.3cm以下、长度变异系数为60％以上、直径为反方向捻区直径的30％～70％、且该涤纶长丝中假捻方向捻区的总长度为该涤纶长丝总长度的20.0％～40.0％。这样的涤纶长丝不但外观，而且各项性能也与棉纺纱接近。这里的假捻方向捻区是指纱线的未解捻部分、反方向捻区是指纱线的解捻部分。
本发明所用的涤纶长丝，如果假捻方向捻区的平均长度大于0.3cm的话，纱线长度方向上假捻方向捻区所占比例增加，纱线相对变细且变硬，虽然由其制得的面料的腰骨感增加，但是手感有变硬的趋势。
本发明所用的涤纶长丝，如果长度变异系数(C.V)小于60％的话，由其制得的面料的孔隙面积分布有变均匀的趋势，有可能出现仿棉效果减弱的现象，难以获得仿棉外观。
本发明所用的涤纶长丝，假捻方向捻区的直径占反方向捻区的直径的比例越小，即假捻方向捻区的直径与反方向捻区的直径之差越大，面料孔隙的面积分布越不均匀，面料的外观越接近于含棉产品；但是，如果假捻方向捻区的直径占反方向捻区直径的比例小于30％的话，假捻方向捻区的直径与反方向捻区直径差异过大，有可能导致面料的孔隙过大，致密感下降，影响仿棉效果。如果假捻方向捻区的直径占反方向捻 区直径的比例大于70％的话，假捻方向捻区的直径与反方向捻区的直径的差异不大，有可能导致面料的孔隙分布过于均匀，影响仿棉的外观效果；另外，还可能导致纱线的反方向假捻区的直径变细，使得面料的柔软度降低。
另外，本发明所用涤纶长丝，假捻方向捻区的总长度占涤纶长丝总长度的比率越小，越能赋予面料良好的蓬松感与柔软感。如果假捻方向捻区所占比例小于20％的话，虽然面料的蓬松感与柔软感得到提高，但是有可能会出现腰骨感降低的问题，无法达到棉产品的腰骨感与柔软感的统一；而假捻方向捻区所占比例大于40％的话，面料的腰骨感虽然增加，但是有可能会出现柔软感降低的问题，同样无法达到棉产品的腰骨感与柔软感的统一。
本发明所用的涤纶长丝的总纤度为56～220dtex。当总纤度小于56dtex时，由其制得的面料的孔隙面积变小、孔隙面积差异降低，而且面料厚度变薄，有可能没有仿棉外观效果及手感减弱；而总纤度大于220dtex时，由其制得的面料的孔隙变大，有可能无法获得如全棉产品般的致密感，而且面料过于厚实，仿棉效果欠佳。
本发明所用的涤纶长丝的单丝纤度优选小于1.3dtex。如果单丝纤度大于1.3dtex的话，有可能会影响面料的细腻手感，降低仿棉效果。
本发明的面料，由单根上述涤纶长丝编织或者双根上述涤纶长丝合并后编织再进行精炼、染色、定型等加工而得到，这样可以保证面料的致密感与孔隙分布达成统一。如采用56～100dtex上述涤纶长丝的话，可采用双根喂入进行编织；又如采用100～220dtex上述涤纶长丝的话， 可采用单根喂入进行编织。
为了使得面料的手感更加接近于棉产品，本发明的仿棉针织面料优选经过起毛加工工程获得。起毛加工所用设备没有特别限定，可采用意大利Sperotto砂皮磨毛机，车速5～30m/min、张力0.4～0.6MPa、砂皮目数160～240#。
优选，本发明的仿棉针织面料的弯曲刚度(B)为0.015～0.045N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为3～6μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.2～0.8N·cm/cm2，这些性能均与市场上销售的全棉T恤面料一致。本发明解决了普通涤纶长丝仿棉面料即便表面粗糙度与含棉产品一样，弯曲刚度和压缩比功却无法达到棉产品要求的技术难点。这里的弯曲刚度是指面料的刚柔性，体现面料的腰骨感，数值越大面料刚度越大，而棉制品兼具一定的柔软感和腰骨感；表面粗糙度是指面料表面的平整性，数值小表示面料手感光滑，反之粗糙；压缩比功是指面料的蓬松感，数值越大，则表示面料越蓬松。
本发明的仿棉针织面料，编织组织没有特别限定，为赋予面料一定的致密感，可采用平针组织或珠地组织等，优选平针组织。
本发明的涤纶长丝，可以由如下方法制得：将涤纶预取向丝POY，按照附图2的工序通过第一罗拉后进入第一热箱加热，再依次经导入假捻器、第二罗拉、第二热箱、第三罗拉，得到产品；其中第一热箱中的温度为230～250℃；D/Y比为1.5～2.5。前述工序中，进行速度没有限制，但为方便操作，可优选为300～500m/min；延伸倍率也没有限定，但为方便操作，可优选为1.10～2.00。
用于前述工序中的涤纶预取向丝POY可通过本领域已知的方法获得，例如可以使用市售的涤纶切片原料，进行溶融纺丝来获得。溶融纺丝的速度可适宜设定，优选为2500～3500m/min的速度进行。得到的涤纶预取向丝POY的纤度和单丝根数没有特别限制，但为便于得到适用于本发明的涤纶长丝，涤纶预取向丝POY的纤度优选为70～280dtex、单丝根数优选为70～280。
在上述加工过程中，当第一热箱的温度低于230℃时，虽然假捻方向捻区的平均长度可以控制在0.3cm以下、但其总长度占涤纶长丝总长度的比例会小于20％，由其制得的面料柔软感得到了提高，腰骨感减弱，无法获得仿棉的手感；并且，假捻方向捻区占反方向捻区的直径比例也会小于30％，两区域的直径差异变大，这样虽然可使面料的孔隙面积分布变得更加不均匀，但同时也会导致面料中的部分孔隙面积过大，无法实现与棉产品一样的致密感。而如果第一热箱的温度高于250℃的话，假捻方向捻区的平均长度超过0.3cm，而且其总长度占长丝总长的比例也会超过40％，由其制得的面料虽然腰骨感得到提高，但是柔软度却大大降低，同样无法获得仿棉的手感。如果假捻方向捻区的直径占反方向捻区的直径的比例大于70％的话，纱线的反方向假捻区的直径变小，纱线整体过于僵硬，影响面料的仿棉效果(柔软度)。
考虑到要获得仿棉结效果的话，涤纶长丝的假捻方向捻区长度的变异系数(C.V)需要控制在60％以上，因此在加工过程中，D/Y比需要设定为1.5～2.5。这里的D/Y比是指叠盘的表面速度除以2罗拉表面速度。如果D/Y比小于1.5的话，解捻张力过大，假捻方向捻区被破坏， 其长度分布变得过于均匀，导致变异系数(C.V)过小，当变异系数(C.V)小于60％时，由其制得的面料的孔隙面积分布有变均匀的趋势，似棉结的效果减弱，有可能无法获得含棉产品的外观；而如果D/Y比大于2.5的话，解捻张力过小，纱线品质无法保证。
优选，本发明的涤纶长丝的纤度为56～220dtex。如果纤度小于56dtex的话，也就是说所用原料丝比较细，在第一热箱假捻过程中，原料丝过细可能会产生过度的融着假捻现象，导致解捻过程中反方向捻区难以解捻，使其直径变小，假捻方向捻区与反方向捻区的直径差异变小，由其形成的面料的孔隙面积变小、且孔隙的面积差异有变不明显的倾向，有可能难以获得含棉产品的外观；另外，还有可能会导致假捻方向捻区的平均长度大于0.3cm、其总长度在长丝总长度上所占的比例高于40％，这样的涤纶长丝手感会比较硬，由其形成的面料虽然腰骨感得到了提高，但是却难以获得如含棉产品般的柔软感。如果纤度大于220dtex的话，也就是所用原料丝比较粗，在第一热箱假捻过程中，原料丝过粗可能会产生未充分融着的现象，这样一来反方向假捻区的直径就会相对变大，而假捻方向捻区的直径占反方向捻区的直径的比例可能会小于30％，那么两区域的直径差异就变大了，由其形成的面料的孔隙面积也就变大，如含棉产品般的致密感有下降的趋势；另外，还有可能使假捻方向捻区的总长度在长丝总长度上所占的比例小于20％，由其制得的面料难以获得含棉产品的腰骨感。
同时优选，本发明的涤纶长丝的单丝纤度为1.30dtex以下。当第一热箱温度设定为230～250℃、D/Y比设定为1.5～2.5时，如果最终产品 涤纶长丝的单丝纤度大于1.30dtex的话，原料丝的单丝纤度也就比较大，通过上述加工条件制得的涤纶长丝外观等与棉纱接近，由其制得的面料的孔隙分布也与含棉产品相近，但是由于单丝纤度相对比较高，可能含棉产品的细腻感难以获得。
实施例
本发明中所涉及的各参数的测试方法如下：
(1)面料的孔隙面积的标准方差及孔隙面积分布中心值
①准备样品：从面料上剪取尺寸为20cm×20cm、表面平整的样布；
②在数码显微镜(KEYENCE公司)50倍镜头下拍摄样品的布面照片，
(a)通过旋转控制板上的亮度旋钮在1/3～2/3之间调节样品的亮度。小于1/3时，曝光率过小，样品的照片过于昏暗，样品上的孔隙无法识别；大于2/3时，曝光率过大，同样样品上的孔隙也无法识别；
(b)镜头调至50倍，并通过旋转XY平台或控制板上的对焦旋钮调整样品的清晰度，确保样品上孔隙清楚。镜头的倍率过小时，样品孔隙的外观面积过小，影响下一步亮度抽取孔隙面积的精度；而镜头倍率过高时，所拍摄的样品照片的总面积过小，孔隙的个数少，影响孔隙面积的实际分布精度；
(c)保存图片，所得图片中所呈现的面料的面积约为3.6×107μm2；
③利用KEYENCE公司提供VHX-2000/Ver2.35软件的自动测量面积功能中的亮度抽取方法；
(a)点击自动测量面积按钮；
(b)选中亮度抽取方法，抽取样品照片的亮度区域图；
(c)选中界面中的“暗”选项，得到照片中的孔隙图；
(d)调节阈值使样品的孔隙正好被覆盖，阈值的范围为-80～+80；
阈值过小或过大都无法使样品的实际孔隙大小正好被覆盖，阈值过小时，测量的孔隙面积比实际的面积要小；过大时，则测量的孔隙面积比实际面积要大；
(e)最后点击“下一步”得到样品孔隙的面积数据，保存数据。并记录样品孔隙面积的标准方差σ及孔隙面积分布中心值μ(单位：μm2)。
(2)变异系数
①面料孔隙面积的变异系数：
孔隙面积的标准方差σ÷孔隙面积分布中心值μ×100％。
②涤纶长丝假捻方向捻区长度的变异系数：
假捻方向捻区长度的变异系数＝假捻方向捻区长度的标准方差σ÷假捻方向捻区长度的平均值μ×100％。
其中，随机选取50cm的涤纶长丝，然后测出20组假捻方向捻区的长度，最后计算出标准方差σ及长度平均值μ(测试方法参照下文的「(7)涤纶长丝上假捻方向捻区的长度占涤纶长丝总长度的比例」)。
(3)弯曲刚度
根据KES FB2法。(KES织物风格仪是由日本京都大学教授川端季雄博士设计制造的织物风格仪，其中FB2是弯曲性能测试仪。)
(4)表面粗糙度
根据KES FB4法。(KES织物风格仪是由日本京都大学教授川端季雄博士设计制造的织物风格仪，其中FB4是摩擦及表面粗糙度测试仪。)
(5)压缩比功
根据KES FB3法。(KES织物风格仪是由日本京都大学教授川端季雄博士设计制造的织物风格仪，其中FB3是压缩性能及厚度测试仪。)
(6)涤纶长丝上假捻方向捻区的直径占反方向捻区直径的比例
从面料中随机抽取选取5根20cm的本发明的涤纶长丝，利用KEYENCE公司的数码显微镜，50倍镜头下使用KEYENCE数码系统的测量工具测量每根涤纶长丝上假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区的直径。每根涤纶长丝测量5组数据并计算每根的比值平均值，5根都测量好后再计算总比值平均值。
(7)涤纶长丝上假捻方向捻区的长度占涤纶长丝总长度的比例
从面料中随机抽取选取5根50cm的本发明的涤纶长丝，对每根长丝分别加以0.1g/D的张力，再利用EIB-E(劳森-海默菲尔公司的型号LAWSON-HEMPHILL)测量长丝上假捻方向捻区的长度，每根涤纶长丝测量5组数据并计算每根的长度比例平均值，5根都测量好后再计算最终的长度比例平均值。
(8)涤纶长丝的柔软度
通过20人进行感观评价，按照长丝的柔软程度分为优、良、中、差4个等级。其中，大于或等于15人认为长丝柔软则为优、10～14人则为良、5～10为中、少于5人则为差。
下面结合实施例及比较例对本发明作进一步的描述。
实施例1
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为128dtex、单丝根数为144的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为100dtex、单丝根数为144、单丝纤度为0.69dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.13cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为78％、直径为反方向捻区直径的43％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的31.3％，具体见表1。
实施例2
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为252dtex、单丝根数为278的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为200dtex、单丝根数为278、单丝纤度为0.72dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.10cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为78％、直径为反方向捻区直径的40％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的22.0％，具体见表1。
实施例3
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为71dtex、单丝根数为78的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为56dtex、单丝根数为78、单丝纤度为0.72dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.18cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为79％、直径为反方向捻区直径的55％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的35.0％，具体见表1。
实施例4
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为128dtex、单丝根数为144的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为232℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为100dtex、单丝根数为144、单丝纤度为0.69dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.10cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为77％、直径为反方向捻区直径39％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的21.0％，具体见表1。
实施例5
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为128dtex、单丝根数为144的涤 纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为245℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为100dtex、单丝根数为144、单丝纤度为0.69dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.25cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为78％、直径为反方向捻区直径的54％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的38.0％，具体见表1。
实施例6
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为128dtex、单丝根数为144的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.6的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为100dtex、单丝根数为144、单丝纤度为0.69dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.25cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为61％、直径为反方向捻区直径的56％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的38.0％，具体见表1。
实施例7
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为128dtex、单丝根数为144的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度 为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为2.3的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为100dtex、单丝根数为144、单丝纤度为0.69dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.10cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为90％、直径为反方向捻区直径38％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的21.0％，具体见表1。
实施例8
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为169dtex、单丝根数为96的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为134dtex、单丝根数为96、单丝纤度为1.40dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.12cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为79％、直径为反方向捻区直径的40％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的28.0％，具体见表1。
比较例1
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为40dtex、单丝根数为36的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为28dtex、单丝根数为36、单丝纤度为0.78dtex的涤纶长丝
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.31cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为78％、直径为反方向捻区直径80％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的42.0％，具体见表1。
比较例2
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为410dtex、单丝根数为288的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为250dtex、单丝根数为288、单丝纤度为0.87dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.08cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为79％、直径为反方向捻区直径的28％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的18.0％，具体见表1。
比较例3
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为128dtex、单丝根数为144的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为252℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为100dtex、单丝根数为144、单丝纤度为0.69dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶假捻长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.35cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为79％、直 径为反方向捻区直径的78％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的42.0％，具体见表1。
比较例4
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为128dtex、单丝根数为144的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为225℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.9的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为100dtex、单丝根数为144、单丝纤度为0.69dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.06cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为80％、直径为反方向捻区直径的26％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的18.0％，具体见表1。
比较例5
选用涤纶切片原料(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)，并以2800m/min的速度进行溶融纺丝，得到纤度为128dtex、单丝根数为144的涤纶POY；然后按照附图2的工序以速度为400m/min、第一热箱温度为238℃、延伸倍率为1.26、D/Y比为1.3的加工条件进行假捻加工，得到纤度为100dtex、单丝根数为144、单丝纤度为0.69dtex的涤纶长丝。
所得涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.38cm、长度变异系数(C.V)为55％、直径为反方向捻区直径的68％、假捻方向捻区的总长度为涤纶长丝总长度的55.0％，具体见表1。
实施例9
选用55重量％的56dtex-78f的普通涤纶假捻加工纱(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)与45重量％的实施例3的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72秒)、起毛加工，得到本发明的仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以6000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为41％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.025N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为4.1μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.35N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
实施例10
选用55重量％的200dtex-278f普通涤纶假捻加工纱(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)与45重量％的实施例2的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到本发明的仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以15000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为47％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.015N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为3.0μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.80N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
实施例11
选用35重量％的100dtex-144f普通涤纶假捻加工纱(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)与65重量％的实施例7的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编 机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)得到本发明的仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以14000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为51％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.024N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为3.8μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.75N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
实施例12
选用35重量％的100dtex-144f普通涤纶假捻加工纱(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)与65重量％的实施例6的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)得到本发明的仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以13000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为48％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.034N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为4.9μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.30N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
实施例13
选用100重量％的实施例3的涤纶长丝，通过双纱合并的形式，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到本发明的仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以6900μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为58％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.045N·cm2/cm、 表面粗糙度(SMD)为6.0μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.20N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
实施例14
选用100重量％的实施例2的涤纶长丝，天竺组织在单面圆编机上编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到本发明的仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以22000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为63％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.037N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为5.1μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.50N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
实施例15
选用100重量％的实施例8的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以19000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为64％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.046N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为6.3μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.48N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
比较例6
选用60重量％的56dtex-78f普通涤纶假捻加工纱(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)与40重量％的实施例3的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃× 30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以4600μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为30％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.012N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为2.1μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.36N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
比较例7
选用60重量％的200dtex-278f普通涤纶假捻加工纱(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)与40重量％的实施例2的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以12000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为35％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.008N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为1.8μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.85N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
比较例8
选用55重量％的28dtex-36f普通涤纶假捻加工纱(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)与45重量％的比较例1的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)得到仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以4200μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为27％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.030N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为5.0μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.18N·cm/cm2。所 得面料各性能参数见表2。
比较例9
选用55重量％的250dtex-288f普通涤纶假捻加工纱(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)与45重量％的比较例2的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72S)、起毛加工得到仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以25000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为51％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.007N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为1.6μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.90N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
比较例10
选用100重量％的比较例6的涤纶长丝，在单面圆编机上平针组织编织得到坯布，然后进行精炼(80℃×20min)、染色(98℃×30min)、定型(160℃×72秒)、起毛加工得到仿棉针织面料。
所得面料的孔隙面积分布以8000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，孔隙面积的变异系数(C.V)为25％，弯曲刚度(B)为0.050N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度(SMD)为7.1μ、压缩比功(WC)为0.15N·cm/cm2。所得面料各性能参数见表2。
Figure PCTCN2015097077-appb-000001
由表1可知
(1)由实施例1、实施例2与实施例3可以看出，总纤度越高，假捻方向捻区的平均长度越短，在长丝上所占比例越少，而且与反方向捻区的直径比越小，但长度变异系数基本不变。
(2)由实施例1、实施例4与实施例5可以看出，对同样的涤纶POY采用相同假捻速度、延伸倍率及D/Y比加工时，第一热箱温度越高，所得涤纶长丝的假捻方向捻区的平均长度相对变长，在长丝上所占比例变多，与反方向捻区的直径比变大，但长度变异系数相接近。
(3)由实施例1、实施例6与实施例7可以看出，对同样的涤纶POY采用相同假捻速度、第一热箱温度及延伸倍率加工时，D/Y比越高，所得涤纶长丝的假捻方向捻区的平均长度越小，在长丝上所占比例越少，与反方向捻区的直径比越小，长度变异系数越大，纱线越柔软。
(4)由实施例8可以看出，单丝纤度超过1.3dtex时，虽然纱线外观、各项性能指标与棉纺纱接近，但纱线手感变差。
(5)由比较例1、比较例2可以看出，涤纶长丝总纤度过小或者过大时，并不能获得与棉纺纱相近的外观及性能；过小会形成涤纶全僵纱，过大则变成普通涤纶假捻纱。
(6)由比较例3可以看出，当第一热箱温度超过250℃时，纱线全僵，硬；由比较例4可以看出第一热箱温度低于230℃时，纱线过于蓬松，接近普通涤纶假捻纱。
(7)由比较例5可以看出，当D/Y比小于1.5时，不能获得与棉纺纱相近的外观及性能，纱线僵硬。
Figure PCTCN2015097077-appb-000002
由表2可知：
(1)由实施例9和实施例13、实施例10和实施例14可以看出，相同纤度下，纱线2的含量增加，面料的孔隙面积变大、孔隙面积分布变异系数变大；弯曲刚度变大、表面粗糙度变大、压缩比功变小，即仿棉效果变强。
(2)由实施例11和实施例12可以看出，纱线2直径比越小、假捻方向捻区长度的变异系数越大，面料的孔隙越大，面料的孔隙面积的变异系数越大即分布越不均匀；另外，假捻方向捻区长度变短、所占比例变少，面料的柔软性增加，弯曲刚度减小、表面粗糙度减小、压缩比功增大即蓬松度增加。
(3)由实施例9和实施例10可以看出，纱线2纤度越大、直径比越小、面料的孔隙面积越大，孔隙面积变异系数越大即分布越不均匀；假捻方向捻区的平均长度越短、所占比例越小，面料的弯曲刚度越小，表面粗糙度越小，而压缩比功越小即蓬松度越大。
(4)由实施例15可以看出，虽然面料的孔隙分布接近含棉产品，但是由于纱线2的单丝纤度超过1.3dtex，面料表面粗糙度比较大，影响了仿棉效果。
(5)由比较例6和比较例7可以看出，纱线2的含量低于45％时，不能获得与含棉产品一致的孔隙面积的变异系数，因此不具备棉产品的外观。
(6)由比较例8可以看出，由于所用纱线2为普通涤纶全僵纱，导致面料无法获得与含棉产品一致的外观(孔隙面积及孔隙面积变异系数过小)；而且面料蓬松度过小，无棉产品般的柔软感。
(7)由比较例9可以看出，所用纱线2接近普通涤纶假捻纱导致面料的孔隙面积过大，无棉产品的致密感；而且面料的弯曲刚度不足，无棉产品的腰骨感。
(8)由比较例10可以看出，由于所用纱线2不具有与棉纺纱相近的外观及性能，所以面料的孔隙分布过于均匀，无棉产品的外观；而且弯曲刚度过大，无棉产品的柔软感。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种仿棉针织面料，其特征是：该面料为由包含至少45％重量以上的涤纶长丝的编织原料编织而成的纬编针织物；该面料的孔隙面积分布以6000～22000μm2为中心、分散在2σ以上，且孔隙面积的变异系数大于40％。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的仿棉针织面料，其特征是：所述涤纶长丝的含量为100重量％。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述的仿棉针织面料，其特征是：所述涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.3cm以下、长度变异系数为60％以上、直径为反方向捻区直径的30％～70％、且所述涤纶长丝中假捻方向捻区的总长度为所述涤纶长丝总长度的20.0％～40.0％。
  4. 根据权利要求1或2所述的仿棉针织面料，其特征是：所述涤纶长丝的总纤度为56～220dtex，单丝纤度为1.30dtex以下。
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述的仿棉针织面料，其特征是：该面料为起毛品。
  6. 根据权利要求1或2所述的仿棉针织面料，其特征是：该面料由单根长丝编织或者双根长丝合并后编织得到。
  7. 根据权利要求1或2所述的仿棉针织面料，其特征是：该面料的弯曲刚度为0.015～0.045N·cm2/cm、表面粗糙度为3.0～6.0μ、压缩比功为0.20～0.80N·cm/cm2。
  8. 一种涤纶长丝，其特征是：所述涤纶长丝由假捻方向捻区和反方向捻区交替形成，其中，假捻方向捻区的平均长度为0.3cm以下、长度变异系数为60％以上、直径为反方向捻区直径的30％～70％、且长度为所述涤纶长丝总长度的20.0％～40.0％。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的涤纶长丝，其特征是：所述涤纶长丝的总纤度为56～220dtex、单丝纤度为1.30dtex以下。
  10. 一种用于制造权利要求8或9所述的涤纶长丝的方法，包括下述步骤：
    将涤纶预取向丝导入第一罗拉，然后导入第一热箱中加热，再依次导入假捻器、第二罗拉、第二热箱、第三罗拉，得到所述涤纶长丝；
    其中第一热箱中的温度为230～250℃；
    并且，前述步骤中的D/Y比为1.5～2.5。
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