CN110079925B - 制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法 - Google Patents

制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法 Download PDF

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CN110079925B
CN110079925B CN201910149526.9A CN201910149526A CN110079925B CN 110079925 B CN110079925 B CN 110079925B CN 201910149526 A CN201910149526 A CN 201910149526A CN 110079925 B CN110079925 B CN 110079925B
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fabric
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footwear
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CN110079925A (zh
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N·W·克拉里
董子豪
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Deckers Outdoor Corp
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Abstract

一种鞋类制品的制造方法，包括提供具有处理器的针织机，所述处理器被编程以使针织机针织具有多个鞋组成部分的毛绒织物并且同步针织毛纤维与网格布以形成包括鞋组成部分的毛绒织物。

Description

制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法
本发明专利申请是于2013年3月28日提交的发明名称为“用毛绒织物制造鞋的方法”的中国发明专利申请No.201380002019.3(国际申请号PCT/US2013/034265)的分案申请。
优先权声明
本非临时申请要求于2012年3月30号提交的美国临时申请 No.61/618,470、于2012年5月25号提交的美国临时申请 No.61/651,922、于2012年8月7号提交的美国临时申请No.61/680,608、于2012年11月6号提交的美国临时申请No.61/722,994的优先权和权益，并且要求作为于2013年3月15号提交的美国专利申请延续 No.13/840,786的优先权，以上每篇文献通过全文引用被结合于此。
背景技术
传统的鞋包括诸如鞋帮、中底和外底的几个部分，所述部分通过缝合、粘合或其它连接方法被连接在一起用以创造不同款式和尺寸的鞋。大体上，通过将不同材料的组成部分连接在一起而制成各个鞋帮，其中组成部分可包括不同的颜色、不同的图案和具有不同的性能特性。例如，通过将鞋面、相对立的左右侧片(即四分之一片的鞋面)和鞋跟稳定部连接在一起而共同制成鞋的鞋帮。布置这些不同且各种形状的片部件并从一块或多块皮革或其它材料上剪切下来。虽然试图利用尽可能多的材料，但不可避免地存在大量的浪费。此外，该布置和剪切过程是密集型的劳动。
因此，需要一种提高制造效率和减少材料浪费的制鞋方法。
发明内容
本说明书提供一种用毛绒织物制造鞋或其它产品的方法，该方法明显地提高了制造效率和减少了材料浪费。
在实施例中，制造鞋类制品或其它产品的方法包括提供具有处理器的针织机；将纤维的纱条供应至所述针织机，所述纱条包括毛纤维；并且控制所述针织机以将所述纤维和网格布纱线同步针织，以形成具有网格布侧和纤维绒侧的绒织物。所述纤维绒侧具有多个产品组成部分，所述产品组成部分由网格布上的纤维绒构成。所述方法还包括针织这样一种织物，所述织物包括具有多个纤维绒产品组成部分的一定长度的网格布。
在一实施例中，各产品组成部分是相同的。在另一实施例中，产品组成部分中的至少两个产品组成部分是不同的。
在又一实施例中，控制步骤包括控制所述针织机以针织这样的组成部分，所述组成部分具有相比其它区域毛纤维密度更高的区域。
在另一实施例中，所述供应步骤包括分开地向针织机供应主要为毛纤维的纱条和非毛纤维的纱条，并且其中控制步骤包括控制所述针织机以针织这样的组成部分，所述组成部分具有带有毛纤维和非毛纤维的不同组合的区域。
在一实施例中，所述产品组成部分包括具有不同长度的纤维。
在另一实施例中，所述网格布包括毛纤维和非毛纤维。
在又一实施例中，所述方法还包括在与每个产品组成部分相对的位置上用表明每个对应的组成部分的指示符对织物的网格布侧标记的步骤。
在另一实施例中，所述织物包括在没有毛纤维绒的产品组成部分之间的间隔。
在再一个实施例中，多个组成部分在网格布上被一起针织为一个单元。
在一实施例中，所述方法还包括如下步骤，从毛绒织物剪切和移除产品组成部分；以及利用从织物上剪下的产品组成部分组装鞋类制品。
另一实施例提供一种鞋类制品的制造方法，所述方法包括提供具有处理器的针织机，所述处理器被编程以使针织机针织具有多个鞋组成部分的毛绒织物，并且用组成部分指示符自动地标记各个鞋组成部分。
在又一实施例中，提供一种修剪的毛绒织物产品，并且修剪的毛绒织物产品包括纺织网格布和多个产品组成部分，其中所述产品组成部分包括在所述网格布的一侧上与所述网格布相针织的毛纤维绒。
在一实施例中，各产品组成部分是相同的。在另一实施例中，产品组成部分中的至少两个产品组成部分是不同的。
在一实施例中，所述毛绒包括如下的纤维，所述纤维具有不同毛密度的不同区域。
在另一实施例中，所述产品组成部分包括具有不同长度的毛纤维。
在另一实施例中，所述产品组成部分包括绒区域，所述绒区域具有毛纤维和非毛纤维的不同混合物。
在另一实施例中，所述织物还包括在织物的网格布侧上的指示符，所述指示符位于与每个产品组成部分相对的位置表明每个对应的组成部分。
在又一实施例中，与各个所述产品组成部分相关联的所述指示符表明鞋的款式。在另一实施例中，所述产品组成部分为鞋的内底。
附图说明
图1为包括了毛纤维的毛绒织物的正视图，所述毛纤维具有不同长度和密度；
图2为已知的鞋类制品的透视图；
图3为被用于制成图2所示鞋类制品的多个组成部分的俯视图；
图4为包括多个鞋组成部分的毛绒织物的毛纤维侧的局部透视图；
图5为图4的毛绒织物的网格布侧的局部透视图，示出了在鞋组成部分上标记的指示符；和
图6为包括多个鞋组成部分的毛绒织物的毛纤维侧的另一种实施例的局部透视图。
具体实施方式
参照附图，在下面仅以举例的方式描述本发明的各种实施例。参照伴随的详细描述，本领域技术人员将充分理解的是附图包括可不按比例绘制的图形。为了示意性说明的目的而可能夸大特征。从优选的实施例，技术人员将认识到本发明的附加特征和更宽泛的方面。
本说明书提供了一种用主要为毛绒的织物制造鞋或其他产品的方法。优选地如在共同拥有的于2013年3月15日提交的申请号为 13/838,551和标题为“Natural Wool PileFabric and Method for Making Wool Pile Fabric”的美国专利申请中所描述的方法形成绒织物，其申请是通过全文引用而被结合于此的。本说明书的方法明显地提高了制造效率和减少了材料浪费。
现参照附图，在所述方法的实施例中，处理被修剪的毛10，即清洗、梳理、扯条(slivered)、和针织、纺织或以其它方式固定到诸如纺织网格布12的基材11上。网格布12可为任何适合的材料或材料的结合，如天然的或合成的纤维纱线。在优选的实施例中，使用传统的管式或圆形针织机同步针织单独的或与其它非毛纤维相混合的被修剪的毛纤维14与网格布纱线。可代替管式针织而使用其它针织、纺织或无纺织造方法。如图1所示，被修剪的毛纤维14可包括具有不同长度和密度的纤维，如包括具有不同长度或高度的纤维。而且，在基材12 上的特别区域中的纤维数量、即纤维密度可以是相同的或可根据基材上的长度、宽度或任何适当的图案而变化。而且，诸如用于控制气味的天然或合成纤维的非毛纤维可与毛纤维相组合。在针织之前可混合这种非毛纤维和毛纤维，即向针织机供应的纤维纱条可包括混合型纤维。替代地，可将多个纱条供应给针织机，每个纱条包含不同类型的纤维或不同的混合纤维，并且可对所述针织机编程以用不同纤维或不同混合纤维针织不同的、预定区域。
图2和3示出了传统羊皮靴16的例子，其中所述靴包括通常通过缝合而被连接在一起的几个部分。靴的各个组成部分是从羊皮的生皮剪切的。羊皮是理想的和传统的“双面”羊皮，即一侧是光滑的，被鞣制成革，和另一侧是天然羊毛。生皮的颜色和稠度是变化的，所以理想的是用单一的生皮制成一双靴子。另外，天然羊皮的生皮的形状不规则、不统一、并且经常有不完善的地方。因此，熟练的皮革工人需要在生皮上布置和标记各个组成部分。然后将各个组成部分剪切并连接在一起以形成靴帮。
图3示出了在组装前的鞋帮18的不同零部件组成部分。特别地，所述组成部分包括前部或鞋面20、前裁片22、左侧四分之一裁片24、右侧四分之一裁片26和鞋跟部分28。应当理解的是，鞋跟部分28可选地用皮革、合成皮革、或其他非羊皮材料制成。靴也可以包括鞋垫或内底29。这些组成部分的每一个通常用手动标记和用组成部分切刀 (类似于标准化切刀(cookie cutter))从羊皮的生皮剪切。各个组成部分都有特定的、预定尺寸和形状，所述预定尺寸和形状取决于包括鞋/靴的款式和尺寸的各种因素。熟练的皮革工人需要在给定的生皮上布置每个组成部分以保持质量(一些组成部分是比其他的更明显)和最小化鞋腰(waist)。不管皮革工人的技能如何，存在着相当大的固有的低效率和材料的浪费。
根据本发明的方法，提高了效率和大大地减少了材料的浪费。本发明的方法可被用于制造广泛范围的各种基于织造的产品，包括服装和鞋类。现在参照图4和5，在连续过程中制造诸如被修剪的毛绒织物薄片30的绒织物。虽然能使用任何类型的织物形成方法，包括针织、纺织和无纺制造，然而优选的织物形成方法是管式或圆形针织。传统管式针织机具有多个给料机，所述多个给料机针织一根或多根纱线以形成整体的、管形织物。该织物被针织成管的形式并且然后被切开以形成扁长的、薄片状的或网状的织物。可使用针织方法制成鞋帮整体或组成部分，所述鞋帮整体或组成部分具有带有不同材料特性的不同区域或范围。在美国专利No.2,314,098、No.5,345,638和No.6,931,762 中描述了针织和其他类似的技术，所有文献均通过引用被结合于此。
所述绒织物被预先确定诸如指定宽度的尺寸。绒织物30包括基材或网格布12和被与网格布相针织的毛纤维14。针织机包括处理器，所述处理器可被编程以将一个或多个纤维同步针织到网格布以形成绒织物。更具体地，该处理器可被编程以针织不同的线迹，并与在预定区域或图案中的一根或多根纤维或不同颜色的纤维相结合。还可编程该处理器以在基础网格布上的不同区域、范围或图案中针织出不同的纤维密度。还可编程该处理器以控制针织机在网格布片材的指定区域或范围中针织非绒、针织织物。在本实施例中，处理器可以是计算机、可编程控制器、或具有处理器的其它计算机设备。
为提高制造效率，在织物片材30上的特别指定区域中，将用于例如单双鞋或靴子、或者可选地用于几双鞋或靴子的鞋类制品的各个组成部分32与网格布12同步针织。应当理解的是，离散的组成部分32 可以全部是诸如靴统部件的相同组成部分，或者是诸如鞋统部件和鞋面部件的多个不同组成部分，或更广泛地为各个不同的组成部分。进一步地，多个组成部分可以被组合和一起针织成整体件或单元。
现参照图4，其示出了一种毛绒织物的实施例，其中基础网格布包括多个离散的组成部分32。如组成部分34a、34b和34c的一些组成部分具有相同的纤维密度。如组成部分34d的其它组成部分具有不同的纤维密度，如组成部分34e具有不同的长度，或如组成部分34d和34f具有不同的图案。还可用如组成部分34g和34h的非纤维或具有微忽其微的纤维制造组成部分32。因此，本制造方法能够将被修剪的毛纤维14针织到网格布12上，以使网格布的一个或多个部分包括具有相同长度、密度、图案和/或颜色的纤维，或者包括具有不同的长度、密度、图案和/或颜色的纤维。因而，用于鞋或服装的相同款式、或不同款式的组成部分可被针织和形成在单件或一卷毛绒织物上。
图5示出了图4的毛绒织物或毛绒织物产品的网格布侧或非纤维侧。如所示的，各个组成部分已被例如用字母“A”和“B”标记，以标识与特定的鞋类制品相关联的组成部分32。例如，被标有字母“A”的组成部分可被用于左脚，而被标有字母“B”的组成部分被用于右脚。可替代地，被标有字母“A”的组成部分可被用于鞋款式“A”且被标有字母“B”的组成部分可被用于鞋款式“B”。可使用字母、数字、颜色或任何合适的标识符或指示符标识用于被指定鞋或鞋款式的组成部分32。而且，组成部分的非纤维侧可包括鞋款式的名称、条目或产品编号或任何其它适当的标识符或指示符。例如在图5中，不同鞋款式“A”和“B”的组成部分34g和34h具有不同的颜色或不同的颜色深浅来表示那些组成部分属于特定的鞋类款式。应当理解的是，在织物和更具体地在织物的网格布侧可用多个指示符标记，其中各个指示符标识不同的组成部分。指示符还可以标识每个组成部分、标识两个或更多的相同组成部分或任何适当数量的组成部分。
图6示出了另一个实施例，其中将单个产品组成部分的多个单元针织到网格布上。更具体地，将多个离散的内底36针织到网格布上。各个内底可具有相同的纤维长度和密度，或密度是可以变化的，如在各个内底的鞋跟部分具有更大的纤维密度。同样地，纤维可以包括全毛，或可包括混合纤维、例如毛和气味控制纤维。而且，各个内底可具有不同的区域范围，如在鞋跟处的密实的毛纤维绒和在前脚处的密度较小的混纺毛和气味控制纤维。如图6所示，各个内底也可有相同的或不同的尺寸。可选地，织物的长度段可包括相同尺寸和形状的外底、或左和右外底、或多个尺寸外底的多个单元。
可以预期的是，毛绒织物30可包括来自同一产品(诸如鞋)或者来自不同产品(诸如鞋、外套和帽子)的组成部分32。
在毛绒织物30上标记组成部分32之后，使用手动剪切或机器剪切或冲压从织物上剪切该组成部分。应当理解的是，使用任何适当的剪切方法可从毛绒织物30剪切或去除被标记的组成部分32。在这方面，可用一个或多个机器自动地剪切这些组成部分以从织物上除去鞋组成部分。在剪切完组成部分后，基于组成部分上的指示符将组成部分组装成至少一个鞋类制品。由于仅用被打算用于产品的区域与毛或其它纤维绒、和/或含有高品质的纱线相针织，所以大大地减少了浪费。浪费基本上被限于组成部分之间的廉价网格布。
通过在绒织物的连续长度上对用于一个或多个产品、款式或型号的产品组成部分(诸如鞋类或服装组成部分)高效地标记，在以上实施例中描述的本制造方法提高了制造效率和有助于减少材料的浪费。
尽管已在此描述了本制造方法的特别实施例，但本领域的技术人员可以理解的是，在不脱离本发明的更宽泛方面的情况下可以做出改变和修改。

Claims (10)

1.一种制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，所述方法包括：
提供具有处理器的针织机，
将纤维的纱条供应至所述针织机，所述纱条仅包括毛纤维，
对所述处理器编程以控制所述针织机以将所述纤维和网格布纱线同步针织，以形成具有网格布侧上的网格布和纤维绒侧的绒织物，其中编程步骤包括指示针织由纤维绒构成的用于至少两个不同产品款式的至少三个离散、分离且不同的产品组成部分，以及
针织这样一种织物，所述织物包括具有用于至少两个不同产品款式的所述至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分的一定长度的所述网格布，其中用于至少两个不同产品款式的所述至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分中的每个纤维绒产品组成部分与所述网格布在织物片材上的特别指定区域中同步针织。
2.如权利要求1所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，所述至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分具有不同的尺寸。
3.如权利要求1所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，所述至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分包含具有统一密度的纤维。
4.如权利要求1所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，所述至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分包含具有不同长度的纤维。
5.如权利要求1所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，还包括在与每个组成部分相对的位置上用表明每个相应的组成部分的指示符对织物的网格布侧标记。
6.如权利要求5所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，与所述至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分中的每个纤维绒产品组成部分相关联的指示符表明鞋的款式。
7.如权利要求1所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，所述织物包括在至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分之间缺少毛纤维绒的间隔。
8.如权利要求1所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，所述至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分为鞋类组成部分。
9.如权利要求1所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，多个纤维绒产品组成部分在网格布上被一起针织为一个单元。
10.如权利要求1所述的制造用于鞋类的毛绒织物的方法，其特征在于，所述方法还包括：
从毛绒织物剪切和移除所述至少三个纤维绒产品组成部分；以及
利用从所述织物片材上剪下的组成部分组装鞋类制品。
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