CN1180502A - 弹性中间衬里 - Google Patents

弹性中间衬里 Download PDF

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CN1180502A
CN1180502A CN97102835A CN97102835A CN1180502A CN 1180502 A CN1180502 A CN 1180502A CN 97102835 A CN97102835 A CN 97102835A CN 97102835 A CN97102835 A CN 97102835A CN 1180502 A CN1180502 A CN 1180502A
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interlining
elasticity
yarn
polyester
polyamide
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CN1100508C (zh
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U·施尔伯
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Kufner Textilwerke GmbH
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
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    • D04H13/00—Other non-woven fabrics
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    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种弹性中间衬里,特别是一种弹性定型中间衬里,它含有基层以材料和固定于其上且由粘合剂组成的层,从而该基层材料含有由至少两种不同聚合物构成的多组分纤维。优选使用聚酯基双组分纤维,从而这些纱线还可与聚酯,聚酰胺,聚丙烯腈,粘胶纤维,羊毛或棉纱混合。此中间衬里可用作加固面料,特别是衣服下摆部分的弹性定型中间衬里。

Description

弹性中间衬里
本发明涉及一种中间衬里，特别是一种弹性定形中间衬里(setting interlining)，包括基层材料和固定于其上的一层，该层由粘合剂，优选热熔粘合剂化合物构成。
此类中间衬里已在服装工业中使用了许多年，特别是用来加固衣服的下摆部分(front portion)。这些中间衬里由基层材料和通常为热塑性的粘合剂构成，该基层材料可设计成机织织物，针织物或无纺织物，该粘合剂以丝网(screen)形式涂覆，因而该粘合剂使得与该衣服的面料粘合成为可能。
此类中间衬里的目的是以完全收放针成形的方式成形和稳定衣服。因为它们与面料相粘结，所以对成品衣服的特性具有决定性影响。外观，定形性能，柔软度，穿着舒适感以及清洗过程中的免烫性能通常决定性地取决于所用中间衬里的类型和结构。成品衣服的外观质量，手感以及免烫性能是服装品的特别重要的性能。
衣服还必须符合变化款式。因此，使用宽范围的不同面料。因此同样通常使用各种类型的中间衬里来加固这些不同面料。
由粘胶纤维(CV)，棉纱(CO)，聚酯(PES)，聚丙烯腈(PAN)及其混合物构成的短纤维纱通常用于基于机织织物的常规中间衬里。实际上，所用纱的细度在10至20ONm之间变化。这些中间衬里的重量通常为35-140g/m2。以此方式生产的机织织物或者用纤维素交联剂交联或者经热收缩稳定化。对该织物的一侧进行起绒或擦毛在中间衬里表面产生尽可能稠密的纤维网，因而获得该中间衬里的相当大的柔软度，体积和紧密织造特性。这一方面对成品的手感是至关重要的。然后用粘合剂，优选热熔粘合剂按已知技术涂覆未起绒的机织织物侧。当中间衬里与面料相粘结时，反面上的纤维网还防止热熔粘合剂透过中间衬里渗入到衬里织物侧。
类似的中间衬里也称为针织物。由CV，CO，PES，PAN及其混合物构成的上述短纤维纱用于纬纱中。经纱通常由细的长丝纱形成，该长丝纱优选由PES或聚酰胺(PA)构成且细度为25-78分特。未用热熔粘合剂涂覆的一侧再进行起绒，以达到柔软的手感和高体积并防止涂层穿透该中间衬里。
无纺织物也用作中间衬里的基层材料。此类用于衣服的下摆定形的中间衬里的重量通常为30-80g/m2。它们通常由丝网雕刻的轧光辊热固化。无纺织物通常也由可被织入的经纱和/或纬纱加固。这些纱同样包括上述细的长丝线或包括变形聚酯长丝。这些无纺织物可用热熔粘合剂涂覆。通常，涂层将穿透面料的危险因无纺特性而轻微。但在任何情况下，不利的是这种中间衬里不能获得上述起绒中间衬里的体积和柔软手感。
然而所有上述中间衬里所共有的是对于拉伸应力，这些中间衬里非常坚硬且在纵向和横向并不很具弹性。中间衬里的轻微可伸长性在高机械应力下是可能的。然而，该伸长在施加负荷后仅不充分改变。已知中间衬里所表现出的这一弹性缺乏代表着一个严重的缺陷。
若此类已知中间衬里与面料粘结，则该中间衬里不能跟随面料在洗涤过程中因热，在清洁过程中因溶剂或因外力的尺寸变化，这可能导致形成皱纹，使中间衬里部分地脱落或甚至产生波纹变形和筘隙。这显著损坏衣服的使用寿命。
尽管中间衬里与面料结合，如果现在试图避免此类分离和通过涂覆更大量的粘合剂来增强粘附，则粘合剂可能穿透中间衬里和/或面料。结果，不仅现成衣服制造商的定形压呢机被污染和顺利的定形顺序被相互粘附的坯布部分扰乱，而且这些衣服的手感以及因此商品价值也大受影响。
因为粘合剂施用量因此原因不能增加，所以试图就其收缩性能使中间衬里与各种面料相适应。然而该方法在服装工业实践中实际上不可能，因为制造了许多具有极其不同性能的不同面料，而且因经济原因，服装工业不得不用尽可能少的中间衬里品种来覆盖整个范围的面料。在弹性面料上使用这种坚硬中间衬里也不能获得令人满意的定形效果，因为中间衬里和面料的性能大为不同。
为了避免这些缺点，近年来开发了另一种定形中间衬里。这些中间衬里的特征在于使用细度为20-400分特的变形聚酯长丝线作纬纱。经纱可按与上述在已知的坚硬中间衬里中相似的方式构成，但也可由细度为25-约167分特的变形聚酯纱生产。机织或针织基层材料按已知技术由热熔粘合剂涂覆。这些中间衬里的重量通常为35-120g/m2。
定形中间衬里的性能由变形聚酯长丝线的性能决定。这些变形聚酯长丝线具有相当大的弹性，因为它们在斜穿(slanting-off)下暴露于经纱和纬纱方向的拉伸应力时很易伸长。一旦拉伸应力消失，这些纱线实际上回到其原始状态。在纬纱方向的弹性通常为20-25％，但可能多达40％。在经纱方向的弹性理想的是6-8％。至多15％的弹性值也是已知的，但在服装工业的制造情况下，要求更大的消耗以达到这一高弹性值。
该中间衬里的弹性使它能准确地符合面料因洗涤过程中的热，因清洁过程中的溶剂或因外力的尺寸变化。因此坚硬的起绒中间衬里的上述缺点得以避免。因此这种中间衬里-尤其当这些中间衬里就纬纱和经纱而言包含变形聚酯纱线时-在许多不同面料上具有几乎多功能用途。
卷曲变形聚酯纱线也产生高体积，当与面料结合时热熔粘合剂扭弯穿过中间衬里到达衬里织物侧。
这种中间衬里的另一缺点是变形聚酯长丝线不能在不损坏长丝的情况下起绒。
因此这种中间衬里的所得手感不能达到坚硬起绒中间衬里的柔软手感和精巧。
通过使用变形微纤维纱线来获得平缓变化，该纱线因单根长丝的细度而用来获得更柔软的手感。复合结构例如从EP-A-0289378也是已知的；除各自包含变形聚酯纱线的经纱和纬纱外，此类结构引入了由可起绒的非弹性纱线组成的第三纤维体系，正如还在经典的起绒中间衬里中所使用的。但结果是不能达到坚硬起绒中间衬里的织物外观，因为基本问题仍然是弹性纤维体系仍不能被起绒。
为此，这些弹性定形中间衬里和成品衣服的所得手感与经典的起绒中间衬里相比太过合成，干燥和人造，尤其是对于时装工业。
因此本发明是基于开发一种避免迄今已知类型的中间衬里的缺点的上述类型的中间衬里的技术问题；换句话说是开发一种具有坚硬的起绒中间衬里的有利手感和精巧性，同时又具有弹性、挠性和实际上多功能的中间衬里。
今人惊异的是，可以通过使用多组分纤维，特别是双组分纤维作为中间衬里的基层材料来解决这一问题。该多组分纤维由至少两种不同聚合物构成。这些多组分纤维的使用使得有可能生产一种同时也能容易地起绒的弹性中间衬里。
由两种不同聚合物构成的双组分纤维优选用作多组分纤维。基于聚酯，聚酰胺或聚丙烯腈的聚合物可用于该多组分纤维。各种聚合物组分的不同结构使纤维以三维方式卷曲，这从根本上与变形所达到的机械卷曲不同。卷曲的特征可通过改变两种组分的热收缩性能和/或用于生产多组分纤维的聚合物组分的定量比来影响。根据本发明，优选使用聚酯基双组分纤维，该聚酯聚合物基于两种不同二醇而构成。这些双组分纤维具有双面结构，各组分以50∶50的比例并排排列。此类纤维例如可以商标TERGAL X 403(由Rhne-Pulenc Textile制造)购得。
多组分纤维优选具有15-400mm，优选35-200mm的纤维长度。所用单根纤维纤度的细度为O.5-12分特，但优选为约6-8分特。特别优选的细度值为6.7分特。本发明的包含这些多组分纤维的短纤维纱线的细度为6-200Nm，但更优选16-32Nm。
通过使用由多组分纤维构成的短纤维纱线可获得比使用由标准聚酯组成的变形长丝线好得多的卷曲值。如下所述，通过比较聚酯基双组分纤维和变形聚酯纤维来说明更好的卷曲值：
双组分纤维Tergal X 403 标准聚酯
卷曲 35-37％ 24-25％
剩余卷曲 28-30％ 16-18％
耐卷曲性 80％ 60％
基于成本，可在生产纱线期间将这些多组分纤维与其他纤维混合。为此目的优选使用羊毛，粘胶纤维或棉线。也可以使用多组分纤维与例如聚酯，聚酰胺，聚丙烯腈以及任意性可有可无的上述羊毛，粘胶纤维或棉线的混合物。此时，若大于15％的伸长值待在成品中达到，则混合物中多组分纤维的比例优选为至少50％。
本发明弹性中间衬里的基层材料可这样生产：经纱和纬纱由任意性可有可无地混有上述聚酯，聚酰胺，聚丙烯腈，粘胶纤维，羊毛和棉纤维的多组分纤维组成，但除了这些多组分纤维外，可使用变形的或甚至未变形的短纤维纱。此时，可使用任意性可有可无地混有上述材料的多组分纤维作纬纱，使用例如基于聚酯或聚酰胺的变形或甚至未变形的纱线作经纱。
为单-或双-弹性的机织或针织织物或甚至无纺织物可使用多组分纤维生产。
以此方式获得的中间衬里现在可按常规技术在一侧起绒。同样按常用技术将热熔粘合剂施于该中间衬里的另一侧，优选以网点(dot screen)形式。本发明的中间衬里使得有可能在单一产品中把起绒中间衬里的所得手感与弹性中间衬里的有利拉伸性能结合起来。因此可使用本发明中间衬里来满足各种类型的面料，该中间衬里能满足该面料所呈现的任何尺寸变化。因此不再产生形变或筘隙，且中间衬里甚至不会脱落。
若生产针织中间衬里，也可引入另一纤维体系作支撑(standing)线。所得中间衬里同样很具弹性，因为使用本发明多组分纤维。
当然由双组分纤维组成的纱线和常规纱线也可能交替出现在纬纱中。通过使用双组分纤维，所得中间衬里很具弹性。
同样可能将无纺织物针织成含有多组分纤维的基层材料。通过使用多组分纤维，正如在开头提到的无纺织物的优点因此可与弹性性能相结合。
通过实施例在下面给出特别优选的实施方案，以更详细地说明本发明。实施例1：双拉伸中间衬里(机织织物)：经纱：1600根纱线，60％PES双组分纤维/40％粘胶纤维Nm32/1纬纱：60％PES双组分纤维/40％粘胶纤维32/1Nm纬纱密度：120起绒：8遍涂层：12g/m2聚酰胺热熔粘合剂成品重量：约95g/m2
通过在经纱中使用PES双组分纱线和在纬纱中使用PES双组分纱线，所得制品在经纱和纬纱方向为弹性，经纱和纬纱均被起绒。结果获得最佳的柔软手感。实施例2：双拉伸中间衬里(机织织物)经纱：4008根纱线，变形PES长丝，分特78/1 f32纬纱：60％PES双组分纤维/40％粘胶纤维Nm32/1纬纱密度：120起绒：8遍涂层：12g/m2聚酰胺热熔粘合剂成品重量：约84g/m2
通过在经纱中使用变形PES长丝线和在纬纱中使用PES双组分纱线，所得制品在经纱和纬纱方向为弹性，纬纱被起绒。该制品代表柔软手感与便宜价格的折衷。实施例3：单拉伸中间衬里(机织织物)，纬纱上具有弹性经纱：5420根纱线，PES平滑正常型/粘胶纤维50％/50％
  Nm60/1纬纱：60％PES双组分纤维/40％粘胶纤维Nm32/1纬纱密度：105起绒：8遍涂层：12g/m2聚酰胺热熔粘合剂成品重量：约88g/m2
通过在经纱中使用常规的坚硬PES/CV纱线和在纬纱使用PES双组分纱线，所得制品在纬纱方向具有弹性，纬纱和经纱被起绒。该制品具有非常柔软的手感且为单-弹性。实施例4：单拉伸中间衬里(针织物)，在纬纱上具有弹性经纱：2008g根纱线，聚酰胺长丝，平滑，分特44f13轴向细度：E24纬纱：60％PES双组分纤维/40％粘胶纤维Nm32/1纬纱密度：120起绒：8遍涂层：12g/m2聚酰胺热熔粘合剂成品重量：约89g/m2
通过在经纱中使用常规的坚硬PA纱线和在纬纱中使用PES双组分纱线，所得制品在纬纱方向具有弹性，纬纱被起绒。然而起绒纬纱的手感因细经纱和粗纬纱而占主要地位。该制品手感柔软且具有单-弹性。

Claims (13)

1.一种弹性中间衬里，特别是一种弹性定形中间衬里，包含基层材料和固定于其上的一层粘合剂，其特征在于所述基层材料含有由至少两种不同聚合物构成的多组分纤维。
2.根据权利要求1的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述多组分纤维为由两种基于聚酯，聚酰胺或聚丙烯腈或其混合物的不同聚合物构成的双组分纤维。
3.根据权利要求1或2的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述多组分纤维具有15-400mm的纤维长度。
4.根据权利要求1-3中任一项的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述多组分纤维的各根纤维的纤度为0.5-12分特。
5.根据权利要求1-4中任一项的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述多组分纤维以与由聚酯，聚酰胺，聚丙烯腈，粘胶纤维，棉纱或羊毛组成的纤维的混合物存在。
6.根据权利要求1-5中任一项的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述基层材料额外含有由聚酯，聚丙烯腈，聚酰胺，粘胶纤维，棉纱或羊毛或其混合物组成的变形或未变形短纤维纱线。
7.根据权利要求1-6中任一项的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述基层材料为机织织物，针织物或无纺织物。
8.根据权利要求1-7中任一项的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述基层材料为机织织物，其经纱或纬纱包含任意性可有可无地与聚酯，聚酰胺，聚丙烯腈，粘胶纤维，羊毛或棉纱混合的聚酯基多组分纤维。
9.根据权利要求1-7中任一项的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述基层材料为机织织物，其经纱包含变形或未变形的聚酯纱线，而纬纱包含任意性可有可无地与聚酯，聚酰胺，聚丙烯腈，粘胶纤维，羊毛或棉纱混合的聚酯基多组分纤维。
10.根据权利要求1-7中任一项的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于所述基层材料为针织物，其经纱包含变形或未变形的聚酰胺长线或聚酯长丝，而其纬纱包含任意性可有可无地与聚酯，聚酰胺，聚丙烯腈，粘胶纤维，羊毛或棉纱混合的聚酯基多组分纤维。
11.根据权利要求1-7中任一项的弹性中间衬里，其特征在于由多组分纤维组成的纱线和常规纱线交替出现在纬纱中。
12.根据权利要求1-10中任一项的所述弹性中间衬里作为加固面料的定形中间衬里的用途。
13.根据权利要求11的用途，用于加固衣服的下摆部分。
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CN1585842B (zh) * 2001-11-13 2010-05-26 因维斯塔技术有限公司 具有高回复的、纬向弹性织物
CN102220687A (zh) * 2011-04-27 2011-10-19 嘉兴学院 一种服装用不易钻绒的多功能无纺衬里布
CN102220687B (zh) * 2011-04-27 2012-11-28 嘉兴学院 一种服装用不易钻绒的多功能无纺衬里布
CN107109725A (zh) * 2014-12-12 2017-08-29 纳幕尔杜邦公司 针织加强织物
CN106436023A (zh) * 2016-12-12 2017-02-22 墨宝股份有限公司 一种饱和浸渍非织造新材料的生产工艺
CN112315078A (zh) * 2020-11-02 2021-02-05 江苏惠沣环保科技有限公司 一种三层一体热熔胶衬布的制备方法
CN112315078B (zh) * 2020-11-02 2024-03-22 江苏惠沣环保科技有限公司 一种三层一体热熔胶衬布的制备方法
CN115323579A (zh) * 2022-08-31 2022-11-11 读布科技(杭州)有限公司 一种高支高密导光面料的制备方法

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EP0842618A1 (de) 1998-05-20
ID26488A (id) 2001-01-11
US5922433A (en) 1999-07-13
LT4633B (lt) 2000-02-25
LV12305A (lv) 1999-07-20
DK0842618T4 (da) 2005-10-17
CZ134399A3 (cs) 1999-07-14
KR100417681B1 (ko) 2004-05-07
DE59707637D1 (de) 2002-08-08
UA56195C2 (uk) 2003-05-15
AU717612B2 (en) 2000-03-30
BR9712662A (pt) 1999-12-21
ATE219895T1 (de) 2002-07-15
EA199900397A1 (ru) 1999-10-28
KR19980032043A (ko) 1998-07-25
CN1100508C (zh) 2003-02-05
DE19644111C2 (de) 1998-12-24
DE19644111A1 (de) 1998-04-30
EA001197B1 (ru) 2000-12-25
AR009085A1 (es) 2000-03-08
AU5119098A (en) 1998-05-15
EE03901B1 (et) 2002-12-16
PL333011A1 (en) 1999-11-08
LT99058A (en) 1999-09-27
ES2179964T5 (es) 2006-03-01
EE9900160A (et) 1999-12-15
LV12305B (en) 1999-10-20
JP4056583B2 (ja) 2008-03-05
ES2179964T3 (es) 2003-02-01
DK0842618T3 (da) 2002-10-28
WO1998017134A1 (de) 1998-04-30
EP0842618B2 (de) 2005-08-03
JPH10130923A (ja) 1998-05-19
HK1010122A1 (en) 1999-06-17
PL187355B1 (pl) 2004-06-30
PT842618E (pt) 2002-11-29

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