CN1585842B - 具有高回复的、纬向弹性织物 - Google Patents

具有高回复的、纬向弹性织物 Download PDF

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CN1585842B
CN1585842B CN028224981A CN02822498A CN1585842B CN 1585842 B CN1585842 B CN 1585842B CN 028224981 A CN028224981 A CN 028224981A CN 02822498 A CN02822498 A CN 02822498A CN 1585842 B CN1585842 B CN 1585842B
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C·A·科维利
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INVISTA TECHNOLOGIES Sarl
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Abstract

本发明提供一种包含径向纤维和纬线的机织织物，其中：纬线选自单纬引纬和共嵌入结构；纬线包含短纤维纱和聚酯双组分长丝，其中所述聚酯双组分长丝包含聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)和聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)；并且聚酯双组分长丝在加热定形后的卷曲收缩率从约10％至约80％。另外，本发明还提供所述织物的制备方法。

Description

具有高回复的、纬向弹性织物
技术领域
本发明涉及在织物的纬线中包含短纤维纱和含聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)和聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)的聚酯双组分连续长丝的纬向弹性织物。
背景技术
聚酯双组分长丝披露于US3,671,379，而短纤维纱的起绒弹性织物披露于US5,922,433中。然而，在这些参考文献中披露的织物在拉伸后没有足够的回复性，除非双组分含量较高，因此仍然希望具有改进回复性的织物。
发明内容
本发明提供包含径向纤维和纬线的机织织物，其中：
a)纬线选自单纬引纬和共嵌入结构；
b)纬线包含短纤维纱和聚酯双组分长丝，其中所述聚酯双组分长丝包含聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)和聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)；和
c)聚酯双组分长丝在加热定形后的卷曲收缩率为约10％至约80％。
短纤维纱可以是棉。织物的纬向伸长率从约12％至约35％。本发明织物的纬线可具有单纬引纬结构，或者可具有共嵌入结构。在优选的实施方案中，聚酯双组分长丝在加热定形后的卷曲收缩率为至少约35％。该织物可是斜纹织物，例如，标准化卸载力至少约2.2N-m/g的斜纹织物。该织物可包含作为径向纤维的短纤维纱。
本发明织物的径向伸长率从约15％至约35％，并且以织物总重量计可包含约5重量％至约25重量％的双组分长丝。
另外，本发明还提供纬向弹性织物的制备方法。本发明的方法包括如下步骤：
A)提供包含聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)和聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)的双组分长丝，所述双组分长丝在加热定形后的卷曲收缩率至少约为10％；
B)提供短纤维纱；
C)提供径向纤维；和
D)通过选自共嵌入和单纬引纬的方法，使双组分长丝和短纤维纱与径向纤维进行交织，从而形成织物。
在优选的实施方案中，步骤(b)的短纤维纱是棉。步骤(d)的交织方法可是单纬引纬方法。在该方法的另一实施方案中，双组分长丝在加热定形后的卷曲收缩率从约35％至约80％。交织方法可是共嵌入法。在优选的实施方案中，该方法另外还包括：提供双组分长丝，其用量为以织物总重量计使步骤(d)的织物包含约5％重量至约25％重量的双组分长丝。
附图说明
图1是由织物面观察的、本发明单纬引纬的、纬向弹性织物的径组织点平面图。
图2是由织物面观察的、本发明共嵌入的、纬向弹性织物的径组织点平面图。
图3和4是由织物面观察的、不是本发明的纬向弹性织物的径组织点平面图。
具体实施方式
现在人们已经发现，在纬线中具有聚酯双组分长丝的某些纬向弹性织物结构，与所存在的双组分长丝量所期待的相比，具有高得多的卸载力。由于卸载力在织物拉伸之后提供良好的回复性，因此，高卸载力是所希望的。
在此所使用的“单纬引纬”指的是交织方法和交织结构，其中，聚酯双组分长丝和短纬纱交织在交替的纬纱中。
“共嵌入”指的是交织方法和交织结构，其中，聚酯双组分长丝和短纬纱一起交织在同样的纬纱中。两种方法和结构本是不同的方法和结构，其中，仅仅是聚酯双组分长丝或仅仅是短纤维纱用于纬纱中。
“聚酯双组分长丝”意指：包含一对沿纤维长度方向彼此紧密附着的聚酯的连续长丝，以致使纤维横截面例如是并列型、偏心核-壳截面或能够产生有用卷曲的其它合适的截面。
用于本发明织物和方法的聚酯双组分长丝包含重量比约30/70至70/30的聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)和聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)，并且热定型后的卷曲收缩率至少约10％，优选至少约35％，最多约80％。优选的是，以织物总重量为基准，双组分长丝在织物中的含量至少约5％重量，并且最多约25％重量。也用于纬纱中的短纤维纱可以是棉，羊毛，亚麻线，聚己内酰胺，聚己二酰己二胺，聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)，聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)，等等。棉是优选的。
本发明的织物具有单纬引纬或共嵌入结构，并且可是平纹织物，斜纹织物(例如2/1，3/1，2/2，1/2，1/3，人字形，和山形斜纹)，纬重平织物(例如2/3和2/2纬重平织物)，或缎纹织物。在附图中，白格是指经纱在纬纱下面，阴格是指经纱在纬纱上面，X表示聚酯双组分长丝纬纱，而O表示短纤维纬纱。在图2中，聚酯双组分纬线和短纬纱显示为作为一股纬纱交织(共嵌入)。
优选的是，本发明织物的纬向伸长率至少约12％，并且正常的纬向卸载力至少约2.2N-m/g。低伸长率在日常使用时难以感觉到，但低卸载力的织物在使用中将变成不希望的松垂和变形。为控制织物变长，另外也优选的是，纬向伸长率不大于约35％。
对织物的径向纤维没有特别的限制，前提条件是本发明的有益效果不受损害，并且可使用棉，聚己内酰胺，聚己二酰己二胺，聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)，聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)，羊毛，亚麻线，及其混合物的短纤维，另外也可使用聚己内酰胺，聚(己二酰己二胺)，聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)，聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)，聚(对苯二甲酸四亚甲酯)，斯潘德克斯，及其混合物的长丝。如果将具有弹性-和-回复性能的长丝或纱(例如斯潘德克斯，聚酯双组分纤维，等等)用于径纱中的话，该织物可具有径向弹性以及纬向弹性特性。例如，在经向的伸长率至少约15％，并且优选的是不大于约35％。
如果本发明的益处不有害地受到影响的话，各种各样的共聚用单体可少量地包括在双组分长丝的聚酯中(通常不多于约15％摩尔)。其例子包括：有4-12碳原子的直链、环状、和支链的脂族二羧酸(及其二酯)；有8-12碳原子的芳族二羧酸(及其二酯)，例如(间苯二酸，2，6-萘二甲酸，和5-磺基间苯二甲酸钠)；以及有3-8碳原子的直链、环状、和支链的脂族二醇(例如，1，3-丙二醇，1，2-丙二醇，1，4-丁二醇，3-甲基-1，5-戊二醇，2，2-二甲基-1，3-丙二醇，2-甲基-1，3-丙二醇，和1，4-环己二醇)。另外，在聚酯中还可包括如二氧化钛这样的添加剂。
在本发明的方法中，提供了这样的双组分长丝，它包含聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)和聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)，并且热定形后的卷曲收缩率至少约10％。另外还提供短纤维纱和径向纤维。通过选自共嵌入和单纬引纬的方法，使双组分长丝和短纤维纱与径向纤维进行交织，从而形成织物。双组分纬丝，短纤维纬纱，径向纤维，以及织物均可具有在本申请其它地方描述的组分、结构和性能。
可用于制造本发明织物且用于本发明方法中的织布机类型包括喷气织机，有梭织机，喷水织机，剑杆织机，和片梭织机。
按如下测量实施例中使用的聚酯双组分长丝在热定形后的卷曲收缩率。利用大约0.1gpd(0.09dN/tex)张力的摇绞纱机，将每一长丝试样形成为5000+/-5总旦数(5550dtex)的绞纱。在70+/-2(21+/-1℃)和65+/-2％相对湿度下对绞纱调理最少16小时。使绞纱基本垂直地挂起，在绞纱的底部挂一1.5mg/den(1.35mg/dtex)重物(例如对于5550dtex的绞纱7.5克重物)，使加重的绞纱达到平衡长度，并测量绞纱的长度(精确至1毫米以内)，并记作“Cb”。在该试验期间，使1.35mg/dtex的重物留在绞纱上。然后，将500克重物(100mg/d；90mg/dtex)悬挂于绞纱的底部，并测量绞纱的长度(精确至1毫米之内)，并记作“Lb”。根据下式，计算卷曲收缩率值(百分数)(在热定形之前，如该试验下面所述)，“CCb”。
CCb＝100X(Lb-Cb)/Lb
除去500g重物，并将绞纱挂在约250(121℃)烘箱中的支架并热定形5分钟，其间1.35mg/dtex重物仍挂在上面；然后，从烘箱中取出支架和绞纱，并如上所述调理2小时。该步骤设计用来模拟工业干燥热定形，后者是使双组分纤维产生最终卷曲的一种方式。按照上述方法测量绞纱的长度，并将其长度为记作“Ca”。再次将500-克重物悬挂于绞纱上，并如上测量绞纱长度，记作“La”。根据公式CCa＝100x(La-Ca)/La来计算热定形后的卷曲收缩率值(百分数)，“CCa”。
为了确定最终织物的纬向卸载力，从织物上切取3英寸×8英寸(7.6cmx20.3cm)的三个试样并在中间折叠以形成开环。每一试样的长度尺寸相当于织物的纬向尺寸，并且是进行试验的尺寸。离其边缘约1英寸(2.5厘米)将每一开环缝合在一起，从而形成周长6英寸(15.2厘米)的闭环。利用Instron拉伸试验机对织物环进行试验，所述试验机带有6-英寸(15.2厘米)的十字头，气压夹(大小3C，1英寸×3英寸(2.5×7.6厘米)平面，80psi(552kPa)气源)，和每分10英寸(25.4厘米/分)的图表记录速度。侧向地将u型棒夹在拉伸试验机夹子组之一之间，以便在棒的两端(两端之间2.78英寸(7厘米)，伸出末端约3英寸(7.6厘米))，从夹子伸出足够远，从而可靠地夹住织物环。将织物环置于伸出的棒端并拉伸至12磅(5.4kg)力并松驰；进行该循环总计3次。在第三循环松驰时，以“5％的有效伸长”测量卸载力(即，在第三循环时，以12磅(5.4kg)力伸长的长度为基准，织物已松驰5％时)，并以牛顿每厘米记录。为了对比不同基重和组分的织物，卸载力标准化为，将测试的卸载力除以织物基重并除以织物中聚酯双组分纤维的重量百分数。用于以下实施例的聚酯双组分纤维是Type-400(r)牌的聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)/聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)双组分纤维，可得自E.I.du Pont de Nemours and Company，1007Market Street；Wilmington，Delaware 19805。Type-400(r)牌聚酯双组分纤维在此还称为T-400(r)牌聚酯双组分纤维，或简单地称为“T-400(r)”。伸长百分比是在第三循环时，在12磅(5.4kg)力下测量的。在实施例中所有试样均为3/1斜纹织物。
实施例
利用18/1cc的棉径纱，和36cc的棉纬纱和/或150旦(167dtex)的T-400，即热定形后卷曲收缩率为39％的聚(对苯二甲酸乙二酯)//聚(对苯二甲酸丙二酯)双组分纤维(E.I.du Pont de Nemours andCompany)，在Dornier喷气织机上，以原径密为96径纱/英寸(38径纱/厘米)编织织物。试样1和2按图1的径组织点平面图进行编织，而试样3和4按图2的径组织点平面图进行编织。试样3和4彼此的不同之处在于：聚酯双组分长丝筒和棉筒在织布机上交换，以致使纱的插入顺序颠倒。对比试样1和2分别按图3和4的径组织点平面图进行编织，所述试样也是3/1斜纹织物。织布机条件对于所有织物都相同。在编织之后，在180(82℃)对织物喷射-冲洗30分钟，在265(129℃)用分散染料再在180(82℃)用直接染料进行喷染，然后在320(160℃)以染色织物幅宽热定形20秒钟。更多细节和结果列于表I中，其中，“Comp.”表示对比试样，并且纬纱和径纱密度分别以纬纱数/厘米和径纱数/厘米表示。通过将纬向卸载力除以织物基重并除以织物中T-400纤维的重量分数来计算“标准化的纬向卸载力”，并且以牛顿-米每克表示。
表
  样品   1   2   3   4   对比1   对比2
  纬纱   T-400(r)和棉   T-400(r)和棉   棉和T-400   T-400(r)和棉   仅是T-400(r)   仅是棉
  纬向结构   单纬引纬   单纬引纬   共嵌入   共嵌入   每根纬纱   每根纬纱
  原纬密   24   17   17   17   24   24
  整理后的纬密   31   21   20   21   30   29
  整理后的径密   43   39   40   39   42   42
  织物单位重量，g/m<sup>2</sup>   232   237   266   272   258   179
  T-400重量分数   0.131   0.093   0.170   0.170   0.303   0.0
  伸长率，％   15.1   17.1   18.2   19.3   17.9   10.7
  样品   1   2   3   4   对比1   对比2
  纬向卸载力，N/cm   1.1   0.6   1.3   1.6   1.5   0.0
  标准化的纬向卸载力，N-m/g   3.6   2.7   2.8   3.4   1.9   0.0
在表I中标准化的卸载力值表明：本发明的单纬引纬(试样1和2)和共嵌入织物(试样3和4)的卸载力，出乎意料和希望地明显高于在纬纱中仅有聚酯双组分长丝(对比试样1)的织物所期待的卸载力。

Claims (10)

1.一种包含径向纤维和纬线的机织织物，其中：
a)纬线选自单纬引纬和共嵌入结构；
b)纬线包含短纤维纱和聚酯双组分长丝，其中所述聚酯双组分长丝包含聚对苯二甲酸乙二酯和聚对苯二甲酸丙二酯；
c)聚酯双组分长丝在加热定形后的卷曲收缩率为约10％至约80％；
d)所述织物包含约5％重量至约25％重量的双组分长丝，并且标准化卸载力为至少约2.2N-m/g。
2.权利要求1的织物，其中短纤维纱是棉；织物的纬向伸长率为约12％至约35％。
3.权利要求1的织物，其中，纬线是单纬引纬结构。
4.权利要求1的织物，其中，纬线是共嵌入结构。
5.权利要求1的织物，其中，聚酯双组分长丝在加热定形后的卷曲收缩率为至少约35％。
6.权利要求1的织物，其中：织物是斜纹织物；并且径向纤维为短纤维纱。
7.权利要求1的织物，其径向伸长率为约15％至约35％。
8.一种制备纬向弹性织物的方法，包括如下步骤：
a)提供包含聚对苯二甲酸乙二酯和聚对苯二甲酸丙二酯的双组分长丝，所述双组分长丝在加热定形后的卷曲收缩率至少约为10％；
b)提供短纤维纱；
c)提供径向纤维；和
d)通过选自共嵌入和单纬引纬的方法，使双组分长丝和短纤维纱与径向纤维进行交织，从而形成织物；
其中所述织物包含约5％重量至约25％重量的双组分长丝，并且标准化卸载力为至少约2.2N-m/g。
9.权利要求8的方法，其中，步骤(b)的短纤维纱是棉，并且步骤(d)的编织方法是单纬引纬方法。
10.权利要求8的方法，其中：步骤(a)的双组分长丝在热定形后的卷曲收缩率为约35％至约80％；并且步骤(d)的编织方法是共嵌入法。
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