US20170114481A1

US20170114481A1 - Woven fabric comprising elastic on both warp and weft and method of making same

Info

Publication number: US20170114481A1
Application number: US14/921,800
Authority: US
Inventors: Israel Robles Lobato
Original assignee: Grupo Romatex De Mexico SA de CV
Current assignee: Grupo Romatex De Mexico SA de CV
Priority date: 2015-10-23
Filing date: 2015-10-23
Publication date: 2017-04-27

Abstract

A woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns is provided, wherein the warp yarns and weft yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers. The woven fabric comprises an elastane content of 2% to 15% by weight based on total woven fabric weight. The woven fabric has an elasticity on warp ranging from about 110% to about 150% and an elongation on weft from about 110% to about 170%. According to the AATCC 135 Test Method, the shrinkage on warp is 0% to −8%, and the shrinkage on weft is 0% to −20%. Methods of making the woven fabrics are also provided.

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD

The presently disclosed subject matter relates generally to the manufacture of woven fabrics and more particularly to a woven fabric comprising an elastic on both warp and weft and a method of making same.

BACKGROUND

Textile manufacturers generally understand the importance of the right quality parameters to achieve fabrics acceptable to consumers. However, the industry is still seeking ways to produce stretch fabrics with better recovery characteristics. For example, a typical quality issue for current stretch fabrics is that the fabrics fail to return to their original size after wearing. Consumers see bagging and sagging of the garment after long time wear. Namely, when fabrics are over stretched in some parts of the body, such as in knee, butt, and waist, they don't quickly recover to their original size and shape. Consequently, the garment shape and appearance is compromised. Therefore, new approaches are needed for manufacturing woven fabrics that have improved stretch recovery characteristics.

SUMMARY

In one embodiment, a woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns is provided, wherein: a) the warp yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers; b) the weft yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers; and c) the woven fabric comprises an elastane content of 2% to 15% by weight based on total woven fabric weight.
In another embodiment, a woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns is provided, wherein: a) the warp yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers; b) the weft yarns comprise a combination of: i) a pick of yarn comprising an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers; and ii) a pick of yarn that does not comprise elastane; and c) the woven fabric comprises an elastane content of 2% to 15% by weight based on total woven fabric weight.
In some embodiments, the woven fabric has an elasticity on warp ranging from about 110% to about 150%. In other embodiments, the woven fabric has an elongation on weft from about 110% to about 170%. In further embodiments, the shrinkage on warp according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is 0% to −8%. In still further embodiments, the shrinkage on weft according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is 0% to −20%. In another embodiment, wherein the warp yarn is at least 40% of the weft yarn. In another embodiment, the cellulose fibers are cotton fibers. In another embodiment, the woven fabric does not comprise a separate control yarn.
In another embodiment, a method of making the woven fabric is provided, comprising the steps of: i) obtaining the warp yarns of (a); obtaining the weft yarns of (b); and iii) weaving together the warp yarns of (a) with the weft yarns of (b). In some embodiments, step iii) is a weave selected from the group consisting of 1/1, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, 5/1, 2/2, 3/3, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, and 1/5. In another embodiment, steps (i) and (ii) comprise spinning of the elastane core at 0.5 to 5 times the speed of spinning the cellulose fibers or the short staple polyester fibers.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Having thus described the presently disclosed subject matter in general terms, reference will now be made to the accompanying Drawings, which are not necessarily drawn to scale, and wherein:

FIG. 1A and FIG. 1B illustrates a perspective view and a cross-sectional view, respectively, of an example of the presently disclosed woven fabric comprising an elastic on both warp and weft;

FIG. 2 illustrates two examples of weave representations of the presently disclosed woven fabric comprising an elastic on both warp and weft;

FIG. 3A and FIG. 3B illustrate plan views of a sample of the presently disclosed woven fabric and a process of measuring of the elasticity thereof; and

FIG. 4 illustrates a flow diagram of an example of a method of making the presently disclosed the presently disclosed woven fabric comprising an elastic on both warp and weft.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

The presently disclosed subject matter now will be described more fully hereinafter with reference to the accompanying Drawings, in which some, but not all embodiments of the presently disclosed subject matter are shown. Like numbers refer to like elements throughout. The presently disclosed subject matter may be embodied in many different forms and should not be construed as limited to the embodiments set forth herein; rather, these embodiments are provided so that this disclosure will satisfy applicable legal requirements. Indeed, many modifications and other embodiments of the presently disclosed subject matter set forth herein will come to mind to one skilled in the art to which the presently disclosed subject matter pertains having the benefit of the teachings presented in the foregoing descriptions and the associated Drawings. Therefore, it is to be understood that the presently disclosed subject matter is not to be limited to the specific embodiments disclosed and that modifications and other embodiments are intended to be included within the scope of the appended claims.
In one embodiment, a woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns is provided, wherein: a) the warp yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers; b) the weft yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers; and c) the woven fabric comprises an elastane content of 2% to 15% by weight based on total woven fabric weight.
In another embodiment, a woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns is provided, wherein: a) the warp yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers; b) the weft yarns comprise a combination of: i) a pick of yarn comprising an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers; and ii) a pick of yarn that does not comprise elastane; and c) the woven fabric comprises an elastane content of 2% to 15% by weight based on total woven fabric weight.
The presently disclosed woven fabrics may be marketed and sold under the name ROMATEX BI STRETCH NAFTA FRIENDLY™.
In some embodiments, the woven fabric has an elasticity on warp ranging from about 110% to about 150%. In other embodiments, the woven fabric has an elongation on weft from about 110% to about 170%. In further embodiments, the shrinkage on warp according to the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) 135 Test Method is 0% to −8%. In still further embodiments, the shrinkage on weft according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is 0% to −20%. In another embodiment, wherein the warp yarn is at least 40% of the weft yarn. In another embodiment, the cellulose fibers are cotton fibers.
In another embodiment, the woven fabric does not comprise a separate control yarn as described in PCT Patent App. Pub. No. WO 2013148659. For example, PCT Patent App. Pub. No. WO 2013148659 describes an article including a woven fabric wherein at least one of either the warp yarns or the weft yarns includes: a) a corespun elastic base yarn having a denier and comprising staple fiber and an elastic fiber core; and b) a separate control yarn selected from the group consisting of a single filament yarn, a multiple filament yarn, a composite yarn, and combinations thereof; having a denier greater than zero to about 0.8 times the denier of the corespun elastic base yarn; wherein the woven fabric includes: 1) a ratio of corespun base yarn ends to control yarn ends of up to about 6:1; or 2) a ratio of corespun base yarn picks to control yarn picks of up to about 6:1; or 3) both a ratio of corespun base yarn ends to control yarn ends of up to about 6:1; and a ratio of corespun base yarn picks to control yarn picks of up to about 6:1.
In another embodiment, a method of making the woven fabric is provided, comprising the steps of: i) obtaining the warp yarns of (a); obtaining the weft yarns of (b); and iii) weaving together the warp yarns of (a) with the weft yarns of (b). In some embodiments, step iii) is a weave selected from the group consisting of 1/1, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, 5/1, 2/2, 3/3, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, and 1/5. In another embodiment, steps (i) and (ii) comprise spinning of the elastane core at 0.5 to 5 times the speed of spinning the cellulose fibers or the short staple polyester fibers.
Referring now to FIG. 1A and FIG. 1B is a perspective view and a cross-sectional view, respectively, of an example of the presently disclosed woven fabric 100 comprising an elastic on both warp and weft. The woven fabric 100 includes warp yarns composed by elastane covered with spun fiber of cotton or other cellulose spun fiber, or a mixture of cotton with cellulose spun fiber, or a mixture of cotton with short staple polyester, or a mixture of cotton with cellulose and short staple polyester spun. The weft yarns, or at least 50% of them, are yarns composed by elastane covered with spun fiber of cotton or other cellulose spun fiber, or mixture of cotton with cellulose spun fiber, or mixture of cotton with short staple polyester, or mixture of cotton with cellulose and short staple polyester spun. The remaining weft yarns may be made of spun cotton or polyester filament or spun cellulose fiber (viscose, modal, etc.).
As described above, the presently disclosed woven fabric 100 may be woven, for example, on 1/1, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, 5/1, 2/2, 3/3, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5 weaves. FIG. 1B is a cross-sectional view of the woven fabric 100 taken along line A-A of FIG. 1A. In the example shown in FIG. 1B, the woven fabric 100 is a 1/1 weave. As shown in FIG. 1B, the woven fabric 100 includes warp yarns 110 and weft yarns 120. Each of the warp yarns 110 and each of the weft yarns 120 includes an elastic yarn 112 at its core, wherein the elastic yarn 112 is covered with fibers 114. The elastic yarn 112 at the core of warp yarns 110 and weft yarns 120 can be, for example, from about 10 D to about 1600 D (D=Denier, a unit of measure for the linear mass density of fibers, defines as the mass in grams per 9000 meters).
The fibers 114 can be, for example, spun fiber of cotton or other cellulose spun fiber, or a mixture of cotton with cellulose spun fiber, or a mixture of cotton with short staple polyester, or a mixture of cotton with cellulose and short staple polyester spun. The warp yarns 110 may have indigo color or sulfur color or a combination of both or any other kind of color. The weft yarns 120 may have a plain white color.
Again, the warp (e.g., warp yarns 110) is woven using any loom known in the art, including for example an air jet loom, rapier loom, projectile loom, water jet loom, or shuttle loom. In the weaving process, the elastane of the warp (e.g., warp yarns 110) and the weft (e.g., weft yarns 120) may have a drawing ranging from about 0.5 to about 5 times the speed of feeding of the cotton spun fiber, or any cellulose fiber spun, or mixture of cotton with cellulose fiber spun, or mixture of cotton with short staple polyester spun, or mixture of cotton with cellulose fiber spun.
Referring now to FIG. 2 is two examples of weave representations of the presently disclosed woven fabric 100 comprising an elastic on both warp and weft. Namely, a weave representation 200 shows a flat cloth on 3/1 weave, wherein the patterned squares are the elastic warp yarns and white squares are the elastic weft yarns. Additionally, a weave representation 205 shows a flat cloth on 2/2 weave.
Referring now to FIG. 3A and FIG. 3B are plan views of a sample 300 of the presently disclosed woven fabric 100 and a process of measuring of the elasticity thereof. The sample 300 can begin, for example, as a 1 square meter patch of the woven fabric 100. The process of measuring of the elasticity thereof begins by washing the sample 300 of woven fabric 100 according to the wash process of the AATCC 135 Test Method; entitled “Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering.” The AATCC 135 Test Method is the method used for evaluating dimensional change after replicating laundering procedures commonly used by consumers. Four washing temperatures, three agitation cycles, two rinse temperatures and four drying procedures cover the common home care options available to consumers using current laundering machines. The dimensional changes of fabric specimens subjected to home laundering care are measured using pairs of bench marks applied to the fabric before laundering.
In the presently disclosed woven fabric 100 comprising an elastic on both warp and weft, the shrinkage on warp according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is from about 0% to about −8%. The shrinkage on weft according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is from 0% to about −20%.
After washing, the sample 300 is cut into two rectangles. The first rectangle is cut parallel to warp direction, the second rectangle is cut parallel to weft direction. In one example, each of the rectangles has an overall length L of about 55 cm and a width w of about 6.4 cm. Two marks spaced about 50 cm apart are provided on the surface of each of the two rectangles. By way of example, FIG. 3A shows one of these rectangles cut to these dimensions and in a relaxed or un-stretched state. A first mark 310 is provided a distance d1 of 2.5 cm from one end of the sample 300. A second mark 312 is provided a distance d2 of 2.5 cm from the other end of the sample 300. Accordingly, the first mark 310 is a distance of about 50 cm from the second mark 312. In the relaxed state of the sample 300, this 50-cm distance between the first mark 310 and the second mark 312 is called the original length OL.
Next, one end of the rectangular sample 300 is held secure so that the rectangular sample 300 hangs freely. Next and referring now to FIG. 3B, with the rectangular sample 300 hanging freely, a 3-pound weight (e.g., a weight 350) is placed on the free end of the rectangular sample 300 and is allowed to freely hang and stretch the rectangular sample 300 for about 3 seconds. At the end of 3 seconds, the weight is removed. This process is repeated 3 times. At the end of the third cycle, the 3-pound weight is allowed to stretch the rectangular sample 300 once again, while the distance between the first mark 310 and the second mark 312 is measured. The distance between the first mark 310 and the second mark 312 after 3 stretching cycles is called length L1.
The percentage of elasticity is determined by the following formula:
Percent Elasticity=(L1×100)÷OL
For example, if OL is 50 cm and L1 is 55 cm, then: Percent Elasticity=(55×100)÷ 50=110%.
This process is performed on both rectangular samples 300, i.e., the rectangle cut parallel to warp direction and the rectangle cut parallel to weft direction. The presently disclosed woven fabric 100 comprising an elastic on both warp and weft has an elasticity on warp ranging from about 110% to about 150%, and an elasticity on weft ranging from about 110% to about 170%. The fabric can have any ligament that can be done by plain loom with cams or dobby.
Referring now to FIG. 4 is a flow diagram of an example of a method 400 of making the presently disclosed the presently disclosed woven fabric 100 comprising an elastic on both warp and weft. The method 400 may include, but is not limited to, the following steps.
At a step 410, the elastic warp yarn is spun with fibers. For example, and referring again to FIG. 1B, the warp yarn 110 can be formed by spinning elastic yarn 112 with fibers 114 using known processes. The fibers 114 can be, for example, spun fiber of cotton or other cellulose spun fiber, or mixture of cotton with cellulose spun fiber, or mixture of cotton with short staple polyester, or mixture of cotton with cellulose and short staple polyester spun. The warp yarns 110 may have indigo color or sulfur color or a combination of both or any other kind of color. In this step, the draft of elastic yarn 112 is from about 0.5 to about 5 times the speed of feeding the fibers 114.
At a step 415, the elastic weft yarn is spun with fibers. For example, and referring again to FIG. 1B, the weft yarn 120 can be formed by spinning elastic yarn 112 with fibers 114 using known processes. Again, the fibers 114 can be, for example, spun fiber of cotton or other cellulose spun fiber, or mixture of cotton with cellulose spun fiber, or mixture of cotton with short staple polyester, or mixture of cotton with cellulose and short staple polyester spun. The weft yarns 120 may have a plain white color. In this step, the draft of elastic yarn 112 is from about 0.5 to about 5 times the speed of feeding the fibers 114.
At a step 420, the warp and weft components are woven together to form the presently disclosed woven fabric 100 comprising an elastic on both warp and weft. For example, the warp yarn 110 formed in step 410 and the weft yarn 120 formed in step 415 are woven together. For example, the woven fabric 100 is woven using any loom known in the art, including for example an air jet loom, rapier loom, projectile loom, water jet loom, or shuttle loom. The woven fabric 100 may be woven, for example, on 1/1, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, 5/1, 2/2, 3/3, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5 weaves. The elastane content on the resulting woven fabric 100 may be from about 1% to about 15% of the total composition of the woven fabric 100.
Following long-standing patent law convention, the terms “a,” “an,” and “the” refer to “one or more” when used in this application, including the claims. Thus, for example, reference to “a subject” includes a plurality of subjects, unless the context clearly is to the contrary (e.g., a plurality of subjects), and so forth.
Throughout this specification and the claims, the terms “comprise,” “comprises,” and “comprising” are used in a non-exclusive sense, except where the context requires otherwise. Likewise, the term “include” and its grammatical variants are intended to be non-limiting, such that recitation of items in a list is not to the exclusion of other like items that can be substituted or added to the listed items.
For the purposes of this specification and appended claims, unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts, sizes, dimensions, proportions, shapes, formulations, parameters, percentages, quantities, characteristics, and other numerical values used in the specification and claims, are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term “about” even though the term “about” may not expressly appear with the value, amount or range. Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are not and need not be exact, but may be approximate and/or larger or smaller as desired, reflecting tolerances, conversion factors, rounding off, measurement error and the like, and other factors known to those of skill in the art depending on the desired properties sought to be obtained by the presently disclosed subject matter. For example, the term “about,” when referring to a value can be meant to encompass variations of, in some embodiments, ±100% in some embodiments ±50%, in some embodiments ±20%, in some embodiments ±10%, in some embodiments ±5%, in some embodiments ±1%, in some embodiments ±0.5%, and in some embodiments ±0.1% from the specified amount, as such variations are appropriate to perform the disclosed methods or employ the disclosed compositions.
Further, the term “about” when used in connection with one or more numbers or numerical ranges, should be understood to refer to all such numbers, including all numbers in a range and modifies that range by extending the boundaries above and below the numerical values set forth. The recitation of numerical ranges by endpoints includes all numbers, e.g., whole integers, including fractions thereof, subsumed within that range (for example, the recitation of 1 to 5 includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, as well as fractions thereof, e.g., 1.5, 2.25, 3.75, 4.1, and the like) and any range within that range.
Although the foregoing subject matter has been described in some detail by way of illustration and example for purposes of clarity of understanding, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that certain changes and modifications can be practiced within the scope of the appended claims.

Claims

That which is claimed:

1. A woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein:

a. The warp yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers;

b. The weft yarns comprise an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers or short staple polyester fibers; and

c. The woven fabric comprises an elastane content of 2% to 15% by weight based on total woven fabric weight.

2. The woven fabric of claim 1, wherein the woven fabric has an elasticity on warp ranging from about 110% to about 150%.

3. The woven fabric of claim 1, wherein the woven fabric has an elongation on weft from about 110% to about 170%.

4. The woven fabric of claim 1, wherein the shrinkage on warp according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is 0% to −8%.

5. The woven fabric of claim 1, wherein the shrinkage on weft according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is 0% to −20%.

6. The woven fabric of claim 1, wherein the warp yarn is at least 40% of the weft yarn.

7. The woven fabric of claim 1, wherein the cellulose fibers are cotton fibers.

8. The woven fabric of claim 1, wherein the woven fabric does not comprise a separate control yarn.

9. A method of making the woven fabric of claim 1, comprising the steps of:

i. Obtaining the warp yarns of 1(a);

ii. Obtaining the weft yarns of 1(b); and

Weaving together the warp yarns of 1(a) with the weft yarns of 1(b).

10. The method of claim 9, wherein step 9(c) is a weave selected from the group consisting of 1/1, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, 5/1, 2/2, 3/3, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, and 1/5.

11. The method of claim 9, wherein the steps of 9(a) and 9(b) comprise spinning of the elastane core at 0.5 to 5 times the speed of spinning the cellulose fibers or the short staple polyester fibers.

12. A woven fabric comprising warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein:

b. The weft yarns comprise a combination of:

i. A pick of yarn comprising an elastane core covered by cellulose fibers; and

ii. A pick of yarn that does not comprise elastane; and

13. The woven fabric of claim 12, wherein the woven fabric has an elasticity on warp ranging from about 110% to about 150%.

14. The woven fabric of claim 12, wherein the woven fabric has an elongation on weft from about 110% to about 170%.

15. The woven fabric of claim 12, wherein the shrinkage on warp according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is 0% to −8%.

16. The woven fabric of claim 12, wherein the shrinkage on weft according to the AATCC 135 Test Method is 0% to −20%.

17. The woven fabric of claim 12, wherein the warp yarn is at least 40% of the weft yarn.

18. The woven fabric of claim 12, wherein the cellulose fibers are cotton fibers.

19. The woven fabric of claim 12, wherein the woven fabric does not comprise a separate control yarn.

20. A method of making the woven fabric of claim 12, comprising the steps of:

i. Obtaining the warp yarns of 12(a);

ii. Obtaining the weft yarns of 12(b); and

iii. Weaving together the warp yarns of 12(a) with the weft yarns of 12(b).

21. The method of claim 20, wherein step 20(c) is a weave selected from the group consisting of 1/1, 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, 5/1, 2/2, 3/3, 1/2, 1/3, 1/4, and 1/5.

22. The method of claim 20, wherein the steps of 20(a) and 20(b) comprise spinning of the elastane core at 0.5 to 5 times the speed of spinning the cellulose fibers or the short staple polyester fibers.