JP7328238B2 - Method for producing stretch fabric containing plant fibers and stretch fabric produced by this method - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a method for producing stretch fabrics and to fabrics produced by this method.

Plant fibers, especially bast fibers, and more particularly linen fibers, are known to be particularly stiff and irregular, not very extensible and easily creased. However, due to their high thermal conductivity, they are particularly suitable for producing summer garments and are therefore considered to be the finest natural fibres.

The state of the art makes linen fabric elastic by twisting linen yarns with elastic yarns, typically elastomeric (e.g. polyurethane) yarns, with low to high or very high twist coefficients. , which is caused by overtwisted yarns. Alternatively, the mechanism is supported by additional heat shrink yarns made of synthetic fibres. However, with this technique, the manufacturer is unable to obtain fabrics made from the above yarns with good elastic recovery and thus visible defects have been formed.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide a method for producing a stretch fabric and a stretch fabric produced by such a method, thereby overcoming the drawbacks of the prior art.

In particular, the present invention aims to provide a method of producing stretch fabrics that are comfortable and have a high degree of elasticity, while at the same time overcoming the tendency to form typical defects due to lack of elastic recovery.

According to the present invention, this object and other objects are achieved by a method and a fabric having the technical characteristics described in the attached independent claims.

The appended claims are an integral part of the technical teachings provided in the following detailed description of the invention. In particular, the attached dependent claims define some embodiments of the invention including preferred or optional technical features.

Further features and advantages of the present invention will be best understood upon reading the following detailed description, which is provided by way of example and is not limiting, particularly with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are briefly described below. .

FIG. 1 is a longitudinal schematic view of a stretch twisted yarn that can be used in a method practiced according to an illustrative embodiment of the invention. FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view of the elastic twisted yarn shown in FIG.

In particular, referring to Figures 1 and 2 by way of example, the present invention proposes a method of manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising the following operational steps:

- to provide a stretch twisted yarn (1) comprising a plurality of single yarns twisted together, wherein:

There are a pair of mixed yarns 10, 12 and an elastic single yarn 14, wherein the mixed yarns comprise substantially inextensible plant fibers mixed with water-soluble fibers and the elastic yarns comprise synthetic elastic fibers;

- providing a further yarn, for example a substantially non-extensible yarn comprising substantially non-extensible vegetable fibres;

- producing a fabric by weaving, by interweaving a set of yarns of said stretch twisted yarn 1 with a set of yarns of said further yarns, e.g. yarns of said substantially inextensible yarns; and

- Dissolving water-soluble fibers from said fabric.

Said further yarn need not necessarily be a substantially inextensible yarn. Alternatively, said further yarn may be the stretch twisted yarn 1 itself. Therefore, in this hypothesis, it is developed to weave fabrics in which both the weft and warp threads are made from the stretch twisted yarns 1 described above.

Thanks to these characteristics, the water-soluble fibers create a sort of filling inside the "cage" formed by the natural fiber bundles, thus allowing the yarn to resist weaving tension. Once the natural fibers are dissolved, the yarn releases a weight fraction reaching the water-soluble fiber content, and the cavities formed by the melting of the water-soluble fibers then wrap the natural fibers around the elastic yarn without thinning. cause elasticity that allows

Thus, the method reduces the tendency for defects to form in the fabric, maintains mechanical resistance and improves the elastic recovery capability of the fabric.

For example, as far as blended yarns are concerned, the weight proportion of water-soluble fibers is advantageously, but not necessarily, in the range of 20% to 70% of water-soluble fibers.

Although the above-described methods can guarantee ideal elasticity and comfort, natural fiber fabrics with a reduced proportion of synthetic fibers (eg, weight proportions substantially in the range of 1% to 5%) are used. manufacture. This occurs without the use of additional synthetic fibres, thus preserving well the appearance and characteristics typical of natural fibres, when in contact with them, along with their breathability and fresh feel when worn. Moreover, this method produces performance fabrics that meet high quality standards. Finally, the aforementioned method enables dry spinning with traditional wool or cotton systems, which allows for better distribution of fibers compared to traditional linen spinning systems.

The vegetable fibers of the mixed yarn are preferably bast fibers. More preferably, the bast fibers comprise linen fibers.

In an illustrative embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble fibers comprise alginate fibers. In a further illustrative embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble fibers comprise synthetic fibers made from polyvinyl alcohol or PVA.

The substantially inextensible yarn preferably comprises the same types of plant fibers used in the blend yarn.

The substantially inextensible yarn preferably comprises a single yarn made of substantially inextensible vegetable fibers and a single yarn made of animal fibers, said yarns being twisted together. In particular, the substantially inextensible vegetable fibers are bast fibers, especially linen fibers. In particular, animal fibers include silk fibres. According to a variant, the substantially inextensible yarn may consist of substantially inextensible vegetable fibres, such as pure bast fibres, in particular pure linen. According to this variant, the substantially inextensible yarn may comprise a pair of single yarns made of pure bast fibres, in particular linen fibres, said single yarns being twisted together.

In the aforementioned method, the weaving is preferably carried out such that a set of weft yarns comprises a plurality of yarns of stretch twisted yarn 1 alternating with a plurality of yarns of substantially inextensible yarn.

In the aforementioned method, the weaving is preferably carried out such that a set of warps comprises a plurality of threads of substantially inextensible yarn. In particular, the weaving is carried out such that a set of warp yarns comprises a plurality of yarns of stretch twisted yarn 1 alternating with a plurality of yarns of substantially inextensible yarn.

Preferably, the water-soluble fibers are dissolved from the fabric by a bath in an alkaline solution.

The fabric obtained is therefore preferably subject to possible dyeing and finishing operations, depending on the look and coverage to be obtained, especially after heat-setting and drying for stabilization of the elastic yarns.

Two illustrative embodiments of the invention are described below.

In a first illustrative embodiment of the invention, the substantially inextensible yarn comprises linen and silk yarns twisted together. Further, the stretch twisted yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed yarns 10, 12 in which linen fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers are present, and an elastic yarn 14 in which polyurethane fibers are present.

In this first embodiment, a set of warps consists of a plurality of threads of substantially inextensible yarns (including linen and silk threads twisted together). In addition, the set of weft yarns are substantially inextensible yarns (linen yarns twisted together and (including silk thread).

In a second illustrative embodiment of the invention, the substantially inextensible yarn comprises linen yarn and silk yarn twisted together. Further, the stretch twisted yarn 1 comprises a pair of mixed yarns 10, 12 in which linen fibers mixed with polyvinyl alcohol or PVA fibers are present, and an elastic yarn 14 in which polyurethane fibers are present.

In this second embodiment, a set of warp yarns is alternated with yarns of stretch twisted yarn 1 (comprising pairs of linen/polyvinyl alcohol blend yarn yarns 10, 12 and elastic yarns 14 of polyurethane fiber), substantially Consists of multiple threads of inextensible yarns (including linen and silk threads twisted together). Similarly, a set of weft yarns is a substantially inextensible yarn alternated with elastic twisted yarn 1 yarns (comprising pairs of linen/polyvinyl alcohol blend yarn yarns 10, 12 and elastic yarns 14 of polyurethane fiber). Consists of multiple strands of yarn (including linen and silk threads twisted together).

Alternatively, in both the first and second illustrative embodiments, the substantially inextensible yarns described therein (including linen yarns and silk yarns twisted together) may be, for example, , which comprises two linen threads twisted together, can be replaced by substantially inextensible yarns obtained from sole linen fibres.

Of course, the principles, embodiments and implementation details of the present invention are described above and illustrated in the drawings, by way of non-limiting example only, without going beyond the scope of protection provided by the appended claims. Wide variations can be made from what is shown.

For example, according to the invention, the fabrics that can be used to obtain the fabrics according to the invention are different, it is also possible to produce jacquard clothing fabrics and knitted fabrics according to the known techniques of the prior art.

For example, according to the present invention, cross-woven or knitted fabrics can be produced.

Claims (21)

A method of manufacturing a stretch fabric comprising the following operating steps:
- providing a stretch twisted yarn (1) comprising a plurality of single yarns (10, 12, 14) twisted together, wherein
a pair of mixed yarns (10, 12), said mixed yarns comprising non-extensible vegetable fibers mixed with water-soluble fibers;
an elastic single yarn (14) comprising a synthetic elastic fiber;
- providing further yarn;
- producing a fabric by weaving by interweaving a set of yarns of said stretch twisted yarn (1) with a set of yarns of said further yarn; and - dissolving said water-soluble fibers from said fabric. thing. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein said further yarn is said stretch twisted yarn. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein said further yarn is a non-extensible yarn comprising non-extensible vegetable fibers. 4. The method of claim 3, wherein the plant fibers of the mixed yarn are bast fibers. 5. The method of claim 4, wherein said bast fibers comprise linen fibers. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein said water-soluble fibers comprise alginate fibers. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein said water-soluble fibers comprise synthetic fibers made from polyvinyl alcohol. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein said synthetic elastic fibers comprise polyurethane fibers. 4. The method of claim 3, wherein said non-extensible yarn comprises the same type of vegetable fibers used in said mixed yarn. 4. The method of claim 3, wherein the vegetable fibers of the non-extensible yarn are bast fibers. 11. The method of claim 10, wherein said bast fibers comprise linen fibers. The non-extensible yarn comprises a first single yarn made of non-extensible plant fibers and a second single yarn made of animal fibers, the yarns being twisted together. Item 3. The method according to item 3. 13. The method of claim 12, wherein the plant fibers of the first single yarn comprise bast fibers. 14. The method of claim 13, wherein said bast fibers comprise linen fibers. 15. The method of any one of claims 12-14, wherein the animal fibers of the second single yarn comprise silk fibers. 4. The method of claim 3, wherein the non-extensible yarn comprises a pair of single yarns made from non-extensible plant fibers twisted together. 4. A method according to claim 3, wherein said weaving is carried out such that a set of weft yarns comprises a plurality of yarns of said stretch twisted yarn (1) alternated with a plurality of yarns of said inextensible yarn. 18. The method of claim 17, wherein said weaving is performed such that a set of warps comprises a plurality of threads of said inextensible yarn. 19. A method according to claim 18, wherein said weaving is carried out such that said set of warp yarns comprises a plurality of yarns of stretch twisted yarn (1) alternated with said plurality of yarns of inextensible yarn. 2. The weaving is carried out such that a set of wefts comprises a plurality of yarns of said stretch twisted yarn (1) and a set of warps comprises a plurality of yarns of said stretch twisted yarn (1). the method of. 2. The method of claim 1, wherein said water-soluble fibers are dissolved from said fabric by a bath in an alkaline solution.

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