JP2018127743A - Bulky fabric, and production method of the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a bulky fabric having elasticity and bulkiness favorable for a denim product, and a production method of the same.SOLUTION: The bulky fabric of the present invention comprising warp yarns 1, and weft yarns 2, 3a, 3b is a weft double fabric where the warp yarns 1 are non-elastic yarns, and the weft yarns include the weft yarns 2 composing a ground texture, and the weft yarns 3a, 3b composing a float yarn texture. The weft yarn 2 is a covering yarn obtained by winding a non-elastic yarn as a covering yarn around a core elastic yarn. The weft yarn 3a, 3b is a multi-twisted yarn obtained by twisting at least one yarn selected from an elastic yarn and a stretchable yarn, and a non-elastic yarn together. The fabric texture composed of the warp yarns 1, and the weft yarns 2 is a twill weave or a flat weave. The fabric texture composed of the warp yarns 1, and the weft yarns 3a, 3b is a sateen weave.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

  The present invention relates to a bulky woven fabric having a weft double woven fabric structure and a method for producing the same.

  Bulky woven fabrics having a weft double woven structure are generally used for denim fabrics. This dough is manufactured by forming wefts as floating yarns on the back side (body side), making the fabric a hot water treatment, and shrinking the fabric in the width direction by the heat of subsequent drying. Patent Document 1 proposes that a non-crimped rat yarn is arranged in the front structure and a composite false twisted yarn of inelastic yarn is arranged as a floating structure in the back structure. Patent Document 2 proposes an elastic tape in which a rubber elastic yarn and a woolen processed yarn of synthetic fiber are arranged as warps, and a raw nylon multifilament yarn is arranged as a weft. In Patent Document 3, a hard yarn such as cotton is used as a warp, a yarn obtained by wrapping a polyester yarn around an elastic yarn is used as a ground fabric yarn of a weft, and a hard yarn such as cotton is used as a floating tissue yarn of a weft. The weft double woven fabric used has been proposed.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 11-181649 JP 2001-295152 A Special table 2013-520579 gazette

  However, conventional fabrics have poor stretchability, and further improvements have been demanded in denim products and the like.

  In order to solve the above problems, the present invention provides a bulky woven fabric having stretchability and bulkiness suitable for denim products and the like, and a method for producing the same.

  The bulky fabric of the present invention is a bulky fabric composed of warp and weft, wherein the warp is an inelastic yarn, and the weft comprises a weft (a) constituting a ground structure and a weft constituting a floating yarn structure. (B) a weft double woven fabric, wherein the weft yarn (a) is a covering yarn in which an inelastic yarn is wrapped around a core elastic yarn as a covering yarn, and the weft yarn (b) is an elastic yarn and a stretchable yarn It is a twisted yarn obtained by twisting at least one yarn selected from yarns and an inelastic yarn, and the fabric structure composed of the warp and weft (a) is a twill or plain weave, and is composed of the warp and weft (b). The woven fabric texture is a satin weave.

The method for producing a bulky woven fabric of the present invention is the above-described method for producing a bulky woven fabric, wherein the warp is an inelastic yarn,
The weft yarn (a) is a covering yarn obtained by winding an inelastic yarn around a core elastic yarn as a covering yarn, and the weft yarn (b) is a twisted at least one yarn selected from an elastic yarn and an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn. The weft and weft yarns (a) are made of twill or plain weave, and the weft and weft yarns (b) are made of satin weave to produce a weft double woven fabric, The weft double woven fabric is heated at 60 to 80 ° C. or brought into contact with water, and then dried at a temperature of 80 to 90 ° C. to shrink the width direction by 20 to 35%.

  The bulky woven fabric of the present invention is a weft double woven fabric including a weft yarn (a) constituting a ground structure and a weft yarn (b) constituting a floating yarn structure. a) is a covering yarn obtained by winding an inelastic yarn around a core elastic yarn as a covering yarn, and the weft (b) is a twisted at least one yarn selected from an elastic yarn and an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn. The woven fabric composed of warp and weft (a) is a twill or plain weave, and the woven fabric composed of warp and weft (b) is a satin weave. A bulky woven fabric can be provided. That is, the weft yarn (a) is a covering yarn obtained by winding an inelastic yarn around a core elastic yarn as a covering yarn, and the weft yarn (b) is at least one yarn selected from an elastic yarn and a stretch yarn and an inelastic yarn. The woven fabric composed of warp and weft (a) is a twill or plain weave, and the woven fabric composed of warp and weft (b) is a satin weave. Is highly stretchable and suitable for denim and the like. The method for producing a bulky fabric of the present invention can efficiently and reasonably produce the bulky fabric.

FIG. 1A is a table of a weft double woven fabric backing structure in one embodiment of the present invention, FIG. 1B is a table of the same table structure (2/1 right twill), and FIG. It is a table.

  The present invention is a bulky woven fabric composed of warp and weft, wherein the warp is an inelastic yarn, and the weft includes a weft (a) constituting a ground structure and a weft (b) constituting a floating yarn structure. It is a double woven fabric. That is, the ground structure is composed of the warp and the weft (a), and the floating structure is composed of the warp and the weft (b). The weft yarn (a) is a covering yarn obtained by winding an inelastic yarn around a core elastic yarn as a covering yarn, and the weft yarn (b) is a combination of at least one yarn selected from an elastic yarn and an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn. Twisted twisted yarn. The fabric structure composed of warp and weft (a) is a twill or plain weave, and the fabric structure composed of warp and weft (b) is a satin weave. The satin weave is preferably 8-24 sheets. 8-24 sheets satin weave refers to a structure in which wefts of 7 to 23 wefts are floated with respect to the warp. Thereby, it can be set as the bulky textile which has a stretching property and bulkiness, and this textile is suitable for denim etc.

  The elastic yarns of the wefts (a) and (b) are preferably yarns having a stretchability of 70% (1.7 times) or more at break elongation. If the elongation at break is in the above range, the fabric can also exhibit suitable stretchability. Specifically, polyurethane yarn, polyester elastomer yarn, polyamide elastomer yarn and the like are preferable, and polyurethane yarn and polyester elastomer yarn are particularly preferable. The stretch yarn of the weft yarn (b) is preferably, for example, a polyester conjugate filament yarn in which a polyethylene terephthalate component and a polytrimethylene terephthalate component are compound-spun side by side. An example of such stretchable yarn is “Lycra T400” (available from Toray Operontex) manufactured by Invista. The elastic yarn and the elastic yarn contract by heating. For example, when the washing temperature is 60 ° C., 30 minutes, then 40 ° C., 5 minutes of rinsing twice and then 80 ° C., 30 minutes of tumble drying, the polyurethane elastic yarn shrinks by 30-40%, and the polyester The system conjugate filament yarn shrinks by 20-30%.

  The inelastic yarn has a breaking elongation of 20 to 60% (1.2 to 1.6 times), and a yarn having no rubber elasticity is preferable. More preferred are polyester yarn, nylon yarn, cotton spun yarn, cellulosic rayon yarn, hemp yarn, wool yarn and the like. The polyester yarn and nylon yarn may be multifilament yarn or spun yarn. The polyester yarn is preferably polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polyethylene terephthalate (PBT), or the like. The nylon yarn is preferably a nylon yarn used for clothing such as nylon 6 and nylon 66.

  The inelastic yarn of the warp is preferably a cotton spun yarn. Cotton spun yarn is suitable as a denim fabric by indigo dyeing.

  The inelastic yarn of the weft (a) is preferably a wooly nylon yarn, a polyester (PET) yarn, a cotton spun yarn or the like. These non-elastic yarns are wound around a core spandex (polyurethane elastic yarn) or a polyester elastomer stretch yarn and used as a covering yarn. The woolly nylon thread has elasticity, and does not cause separation or the like following the shrinkage of the elastic thread during the shrinkage treatment after forming the fabric. The inelastic yarn of the weft (b) is preferably a cotton spun yarn.

  The woven fabric structure composed of warp and weft (b) is preferably 8-24 satin weave. 8-24 sheets satin weave refers to a structure in which wefts of 7 to 23 wefts are floated with respect to the warp. Thereby, it can be set as the bulky textile which has a stretching property and bulkiness, and this textile is suitable for denim etc. More preferably, 12 to 24 satin weaves are preferable. Thereby, it becomes a textile fabric with higher bulkiness. Cotton spun yarn has water absorbency and hygroscopicity, and is suitable as a comfortable clothes.

The weft yarn (b) comprises a spun yarn obtained by twisting an inelastic yarn at a twist number of 10 times / inch or more and an elastic filament yarn, less than 10 times / inch in a direction opposite to the twisting direction of the inelastic yarn. It is preferable that the yarn is a twisted yarn twisted together with the number of twists. More preferably, the spun yarn obtained by twisting the inelastic yarn at a twist number of 10 to 30 times / inch (primary twist) and the elastic filament yarn are applied three times in the direction opposite to the twisting direction of the inelastic yarn. Twist together with a twist number of inches or more and less than 10 turns / inch (secondary twist). The number of twists of the primary twist is 2.5 to 4.5 in terms of the twist coefficient K. This twist coefficient K is calculated by the following formula: K = T / √ (cotton count)
T: Number of twists (times / inch)
For example, for a spun yarn having a count of 16 (cotton count) and a primary twist of 10 times / inch, 10 / √16 = 2.5. In addition, the spun yarn with 44 count (cotton count) and primary twist of 30 times / inch is 30 / √44 = 4.5.
In this way, when the twist direction of the secondary twist is reversed to the twist direction of the primary twist, the inelastic yarn is untwisted to become a sweet twist, and when the elastic filament yarn is contracted, the inelastic yarn is not restrained and is bulky. Thus, a woven fabric having high bulkiness is obtained as a whole.

Next, a manufacturing method is demonstrated according to each process.
(1) Prepare an inelastic yarn as a warp. The warp is preferably a cotton spun yarn, a polyester spun yarn or a blended yarn of these. Among these, a cotton spun yarn capable of indigo dyeing is preferable.
(2) As the weft yarn (a), a covering yarn is prepared by winding an inelastic yarn around a core elastic yarn as a covering yarn. For example, a covering yarn (FTY) in which a wooly nylon yarn is wound around a spandex (polyurethane elastic yarn) is preferable.
(3) As the weft (b), a twisted yarn in which at least one yarn selected from an elastic yarn and a stretchable yarn and an inelastic yarn are twisted is prepared. For example, spandex (polyurethane elastic yarn) or polyester elastomer yarn is used as the elastic yarn, and cotton spun yarn is used as the inelastic yarn. Thereby, elasticity can be made high. As described above, the stretch yarn includes a polyester-based conjugate yarn.
(4) A weft double woven fabric is produced in which the weave fabric composed of warp and weft (a) is a twill or plain weave, and the weave fabric composed of warp and weft (b) is 8-24 satin weave. The reason for making the twill or plain weave with the warp and weft (a) is to make a solid fabric as the ground texture. The warp and weft yarns (b) are made of satin weave. When weft weave fabrics are heat treated and shrunk, the weft yarns (b) are arranged in a loop on the back of the weft double fabrics. This is to make a woven fabric. In the shrinkage treatment, the weft double woven fabric is heated to 60 to 80 ° C. or contacted with water and then dried at an ambient temperature of 80 to 90 ° C. to shrink the width direction by 20 to 35%. The heating water temperature is preferably 60 to 80 ° C. and time 2 to 3 minutes. The drying treatment is preferably performed at an atmospheric temperature of 80 to 90 ° C. and a time of 2 to 3 minutes. Thereby, the bulky fabric of the present invention is obtained.

  This will be described below with reference to the drawings. In the drawings, the same reference numerals denote the same parts. FIG. 1A is a table of a weft double woven fabric backing structure in one embodiment of the present invention, FIG. 1B is a table of the same table structure (2/1 right twill), and FIG. It is a table. In the surface structure of FIG. 1B, the warp 1 and the weft (a) 2 have a 2/1 right twill structure to form a woven fabric. In the back structure of FIG. 1C, the warp 1 and the wefts (b) 3a and 3b have a satin weave structure to form a woven fabric. In this example, a 12-sheet satin weave structure (11 warp floating structures). As can be seen by comparing the front structure of FIG. 1B and the back structure of FIG. 1C, two wefts (b) of the back structure are arranged for one weft (a) of the front structure. FIG. 1A is a diagram in which the surface structure of FIG. 1B and FIG. 1C are combined.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. The present invention is not limited to the following examples.

First, the measurement method for evaluation will be explained.
It measured using the Instron apparatus according to JIS-L-1096 strip method.
<Tear Strength>
Measured according to JIS-L-1096 pendulum method.
<Sliding resistance value>
It measured according to JIS-L-1096 B method 117.7N.
<Elongation recovery rate and growth rate>
Measured according to JIS-L-1096 B-1 method and B method 14.7N.
<Texture>
Touched by hand and sensory test.

Example 1
<Thread used>
(1) Warp yarn: 100% cotton spun yarn, cotton count 16 single yarn (16/1), number of twists 15.2 times / inch (Z twist), indigo-dyed product (2) weft yarn constituting the ground structure (a ): Covering yarn with Woolen nylon filament yarn (nylon 6, single fiber fineness 3.25decitex, 24 components) and total fineness 78decitex (TY NY78DT) wrapped around the core polyurethane filament yarn (fineness 44decitex) (FTY)
(3) Weft yarn constituting the floating yarn structure (b): 100% cotton spun yarn, cotton count 16 single yarn (16/1), number of twists 14.2 times / inch (Z twist), polyurethane filament yarn ( Twisted yarn with a fineness of 44 decitex) 4 times / inch (S twist)
The dough loom was used to produce the fabric structure shown in FIGS. 1A-C. The number of driven wefts (a) was 36 / inch on the loom, and the number of driven wefts (b) was 72 / inch, a total of 108 / inch. The mixing ratio was 92 mass% cotton, 4 mass% nylon, and 4 mass% polyurethane.
<Shrinkage treatment of double weft fabric>
The resulting weft double woven fabric was washed and tumble dried. The washing temperature was 60 ° C. for 30 minutes, and then rinsed twice at 40 ° C. for 5 minutes. Thereafter, tumble drying was performed at 80 ° C. for 30 minutes. At this time, the weft double woven fabric contracted in the width direction. The conditions and results are summarized in Table 1.

(Example 2)
As the weft yarn (b) constituting the floating yarn structure, 100% cotton spun yarn, cotton count 24 single yarn (24/1), twist number 16.8 times / inch (Z twist), polyurethane filament yarn (fineness 33decitex ) Is twisted 6 times / inch (S twist), and the number of wefts (a) is 39 / inch on the loom and the number of wefts (b) is 78 / Inch, the total was 117 lines / inch. The mixing ratio was 89% by weight cotton, 7% by weight nylon, and 4% by weight polyurethane. Other than that was the same as Example 1. Other conditions and results are summarized in Table 1.

(Example 3)
As the weft (a) constituting the ground structure, a core polyurethane filament yarn (fineness 22 decitex) and a woolen nylon filament yarn (nylon 6, single fiber fineness 3.25 decitex, 24 constitutional yarns) as a covering yarn, total fineness 78 decitex ( A covering yarn (FTY) wound with TY NY78DT) was used.
As the weft (b) constituting the floating yarn structure, 100% cotton spun yarn, cotton count No. 24 single yarn (24/1), number of twists 16.8 times / inch (Z twist), indigo dyed yarn, and polyester series Stretch yarn (sold by Toray Operontex Co., Ltd.) “Lycra T400” fineness 56decitex) is used and twisted 6 times / inch (S twist). Twist yarn (a) is driven on the loom. 39 / inch, and the number of weft yarns (b) to be driven was 78 / inch, for a total of 117 / inch. The mixing ratio was 84 mass% cotton, 9 mass% polyester elastomer yarn, 6 mass% nylon, and 1 mass% polyurethane. Other than that was the same as Example 1. Other conditions and results are summarized in Table 1.

  As is apparent from Table 1, each example product of the present invention has high lateral stretchability and was suitable for denim and the like. Also, the texture was bulky and was good overall.

  The bulky woven fabric of the present invention is suitable for general shirting, trousers, sports clothing and the like in addition to denim fabric.

1 Warp 2 Weft (a)
3a, 3b Weft (b)

Claims (10)

A bulky fabric composed of warp and weft,
The warp is an inelastic yarn;
The weft is a weft double woven fabric including a weft (a) constituting a ground structure and a weft (b) constituting a floating yarn structure,
The weft yarn (a) is a covering yarn obtained by winding an inelastic yarn around a core elastic yarn as a covering yarn,
The weft yarn (b) is a twisted yarn obtained by twisting at least one yarn selected from an elastic yarn and an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn,
The fabric structure composed of the warp and weft (a) is a twill or plain weave,
A bulky woven fabric characterized in that the woven fabric structure composed of the warp and the weft (b) is a satin weave.   The bulky woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the elastic yarns of the wefts (a) and (b) are yarns having rubber elasticity with a breaking elongation of 70% (1.7 times) or more.   The bulky woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the inelastic yarn is a yarn having a breaking elongation of 20 to 60% (1.2 to 1.6 times) and having no rubber elasticity.   The bulky woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the woven fabric structure composed of the warp and the weft (b) is 8-24 satin weave.   The bulky woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the warp is a cotton spun yarn.   The bulky woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the elastic yarns of the wefts (a) and (b) are polyurethane yarns.   The inelastic yarn of the wefts (a) and (b) is at least one yarn selected from polyester yarn, nylon yarn, cotton spun yarn, rayon yarn, hemp yarn and wool yarn. The bulky fabric described.   The weft yarn (b) comprises a spun yarn obtained by twisting an inelastic yarn at a twist number of 10 times / inch or more and an elastic filament yarn, less than 10 times / inch in a direction opposite to the twisting direction of the inelastic yarn. The bulky woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the woven yarn is a twisted yarn twisted together with the number of twists.   The bulky fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the stretch yarn of the weft (b) is a polyester-based conjugate yarn. A method for producing a bulky woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9,
Warp yarn is inelastic yarn,
The weft yarn (a) is a covering yarn obtained by winding an inelastic yarn around a core elastic yarn as a covering yarn,
The weft yarn (b) is a twisted yarn obtained by twisting at least one yarn selected from an elastic yarn and an elastic yarn and an inelastic yarn,
The fabric structure composed of the warp and weft (a) is a twill or plain weave, the fabric structure composed of the warp and weft (b) is a satin weave to produce a weft double fabric,
A bulky woven fabric characterized in that the weft double woven fabric is heated to 60 to 80 ° C. or brought into contact with water and then dried in a temperature atmosphere of 80 to 90 ° C. to shrink the width direction by 20 to 35%. Manufacturing method.

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