JP2015086493A - Method for producing composite false-twisted yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for producing a composite false-twisted yarn that can suppress the occurrence of a snag when made into a woven or knitted fabric and is excellent in stretchability without using a side-by-side type conjugate yarn and a polyurethane elastic yarn, and to provide a woven and knitted fabric containing a composite false-twisted yarn obtained by the method.SOLUTION: The method for producing a composite false-twisted yarn that is made of two polyester multifilament yarns and does not have a core-sheath two layer structure, includes executing false twisting according to a two stage heater false twisting method under a condition satisfying the following conditions (1)-(3): (1) the temperature of a first heater 4 is 180°C or higher and the temperature of a second heater 7 is 160°C or lower, (2) the false twist coefficient K derived from a specific relation between a total fineness (denier) and the number of false twisting is 32000-38000, and (3) the overfeeding rate at the second heater 7 is 20% or more. The two polyester multifilament yarns have a single fiber fineness of 0.5-5.0 dtex.

Description

  The present invention relates to a method for producing a composite false twist yarn composed of two polyester multifilament yarns, and a woven or knitted fabric containing the composite false twist yarn obtained by the production method.

  Conventionally, a composite false twisted yarn composed of two multifilament yarns is used for the purpose of, for example, giving the fabric a texture or aesthetics that cannot be expressed by a single yarn.

  For example, as a method for producing a composite false twisted yarn that gives a spun-like texture, a method is known in which two multifilament yarns having different elongations are aligned and entangled and then false twisted (for example, patent document) 1 and 2). That is, when the multifilament yarns having different elongations are aligned and false twisted, the multifilament yarns having low elongation are positioned in the core, and the multifilament yarns having high elongation are stretched around the core yarn. In this state, it is wound and coated to produce a composite false twisted yarn with a core-sheath two-layer structure.

  As a composite false twisted yarn that can give a woven or knitted fabric with a soft touch, firmness and repellent texture and an excellent tonal appearance, the multifilament yarn constituting the core is a cationic dye having a single fiber fineness of 6.5 to 11 denier A multifilament that constitutes the core portion as a non-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, and the multifilament yarn that constitutes the sheath portion as a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 0.8 to 2.2 denier A composite false twist yarn is known in which the total fineness ratio of the multifilament yarn constituting the sheath portion relative to the yarn is 0.7 to 1.4 and there is a difference of 4 to 20% in length between the two multifilament yarns. (For example, refer to Patent Document 3).

Japanese Examined Patent Publication No.59-39526 Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-19733 JP-A-1-282358

  However, the composite false twisted yarns of the core-sheath two-layer structure disclosed in Patent Documents 1 to 3 are wound around the core yarns in the form of alternating twisted yarns, so that the core yarns are tightened by the sheath yarns. For this reason, there is a problem in that crimping of the core yarn is difficult to occur and lacks stretchability like a single false twisted yarn.

  On the other hand, a method of obtaining stretch properties by using a side-by-side type conjugate yarn for the low elongation multifilament yarn constituting the core yarn is also known, but in order to develop the crimp of the conjugate yarn, the conjugate yarn It is necessary to make the binding force acting on the sheet as small as possible, so that strong twist cannot be applied, the structure of the fabric must be loosened, and the crimp tends to become thick, and the fabric tends to be thick. There is a characteristic that shrinkage is lost due to expansion and it is difficult to return to the original size, and there are significant restrictions depending on the application.

  In order to solve the above problems, the present inventors considered that the difference in elongation between two polyester multifilament yarns used as composite false twisted yarns should be reduced to avoid a core-sheath two-layer structure. However, when the one-stage heater false twist method as disclosed in Patent Documents 1 to 3 is performed, the false twist crimp becomes too loose, and there is a problem that snag is generated when a woven or knitted fabric is obtained. I knew that. In particular, it has been found that when two polyester multifilament yarns are false twisted so as not to have a core-sheath two-layer structure, the two polyester multifilament yarns are less likely to converge and snag is more likely to occur.

  The present invention provides a method for producing a composite false twisted yarn that is excellent in stretch properties without using side-by-side conjugate yarns, polyurethane elastic yarns, or the like, while suppressing the occurrence of snag when used as a woven or knitted fabric, and the production method. An object is to provide a woven or knitted fabric including a composite false twisted yarn.

  The present inventors have studied to solve the above-mentioned problems, and have focused on performing false twisting by a two-stage heater false twist method. The false twisting method includes a so-called one-stage heater false twist method that has been false twisted and a two-stage heater false twist method that further heat-treats the yarn that has been false twisted by the single-stage heater. In general, the first-stage heater false twist method is a false twisted yarn with high bulkiness and a large residual torque, and the two-stage heater false twist method is a false twisted yarn with a low bulkiness and low residual torque. . As a setting condition of the two-stage heater performed for torque reduction, for example, JP-A-2005-290634 discloses a temperature of 170 ° C. and an overfeed rate of 8%. As a result of further diligent study, the present inventors set the difference in length of two polyester multifilament yarns to 5% or less by the two-stage heater false twist method, and sets the false twist number and the first heater temperature to a specific range. Furthermore, it was found that the above-mentioned problems can be solved by making the second heater temperature as low as 160 ° C. or less, which is not normally performed, and also by increasing the overfeed rate in the second heater as high as 20% or more which is not normally performed. It was. That is, the gist of the present invention is as follows.

(I) A method for producing a composite false twisted yarn comprising two polyester multifilament yarns and having no core-sheath two-layer structure, which satisfies the following conditions (1) to (3) by a two-stage heater false twist method A method for producing a composite false twisted yarn, characterized in that false twisting is performed under the following conditions.
(1) The first heater temperature is 180 ° C. or higher and the second heater temperature is 160 ° C. or lower. (2) The false twist coefficient K calculated by the following formula (I) is 32000-38000.

(3) Overfeed rate in the second heater is 20% or more

(Ii) The method for producing a composite false twisted yarn according to (i), wherein the single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns is 0.5 to 5.0 dtex.
(Iii) Of the two polyester multifilament yarns, the total fineness of one polyester multifilament yarn is 84 to 330 dtex, and the total fineness of the other polyester multifilament yarn is 56 to 220 dtex (i) or The manufacturing method of the composite false twist yarn as described in (ii).
(Iv) Of the two polyester multifilament yarns, the total fineness of one polyester multifilament yarn is 1.5 times or more of the total fineness of the other polyester multifilament yarn, (i) to (iii) The manufacturing method of the composite false twist yarn in any one.
(V) Of the two polyester multifilament yarns, one polyester multifilament yarn is a cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament yarn and the other is a cationic dye non-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn (i) )-(Iv) The manufacturing method of the composite false twist yarn in any one of.
(Vi) A woven fabric containing a composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method according to any one of (i) to (v) above, and conforming to JIS L 1096 2010 8.16.1 A method (constant speed elongation method) The elongation measured according to the warp and latitude directions is 10% or more, and the snag property evaluated according to the JIS L 1058 2011 D-3 method is grade 4 or more in the warp and latitude directions. Woven fabric.
(Vii) A knitted fabric comprising a composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method according to any one of (i) to (v) above, and conforming to JIS L 1096 2010 8.16.1 A method (constant speed elongation method) The elongation measured according to the wale and course directions is 15% or more, and the snag property evaluated according to the JIS L 1058 2011 D-3 method is grade 3 or more in the wale and course directions. Knitting to do.

  According to the production method of the present invention, it is possible to produce a composite false twisted yarn that is excellent in stretch properties without using side-by-side type conjugate yarn or polyurethane elastic yarn while suppressing the occurrence of snag when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric. . Furthermore, according to the woven or knitted fabric containing the composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method, it should have excellent stretch properties without using side-by-side conjugate yarn or polyurethane elastic yarn while suppressing the occurrence of snag. Is possible.

It is a schematic process drawing explaining an example of the manufacturing method of this invention.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  In the present invention, two polyester multifilament yarns are used. It does not specifically limit as polyester which comprises two polyester multifilament yarns. According to the composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention, a woven or knitted fabric excellent in stretchability can be obtained without using a side-by-side conjugate yarn or a polyurethane elastic yarn.

  Of the two polyester multifilament yarns, one polyester multifilament yarn is preferably a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, and the other is preferably a cationic dye-undyed polyester multifilament yarn. Thereby, when it is set as a woven or knitted fabric, for example, if it is dyed using only a cationic dye or using a cationic dye and a disperse dye, a toned appearance can be given to the woven or knitted fabric. In particular, the tone appearance is different from the rough tone of a woven or knitted fabric made of a composite false twisted yarn obtained by a two-stage heater false twist method under normal conditions, as will be described later. It is easy to achieve an excellent tone appearance of the top tone with a short running tone expression, which is different from the delicate tone of the woven or knitted fabric.

  The cationic dye-dyeable polyester is a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing components that can be dyed with a cationic dye, and examples thereof include polyesters obtained by copolymerizing an isophthalic acid component having a sulfonate group in a polyethylene terephthalate unit. And polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. As a copolymerization amount of the isophthalic acid component which has a sulfonate group, 0.5-5 mol% is mentioned with respect to all the acid components, for example. Moreover, a cationic dye non-dyeing polyester is polyester which does not copolymerize the component which can be dye | stained with a cationic dye, For example, a polyethylene terephthalate etc. are mentioned.

  The two polyester multifilament yarns as supply yarns preferably have an elongation difference of 60% or less, and more preferably 30% or less. Thereby, it becomes easy to make the difference in the length of two polyester multifilament yarns, which will be described later, small, for example, there is no fear that the core yarn is tightened by the sheath yarn, and the obtained composite false twisted yarn has excellent stretch properties. It becomes easy.

  In the present invention, the single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns constituting the composite false twist yarn is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 dtex. By setting it as this range, the composite false twisted yarn obtained becomes easier to converge two polyester multifilament yarns, and tends to be more excellent in stretchability and snagability when made into a woven or knitted fabric.

  In the present invention, of the two polyester multifilament yarns constituting the composite false twist yarn, the total fineness of one polyester multifilament yarn is 84 to 330 dtex, and the total fineness of the other polyester multifilament yarn is 56 to 220 dtex. Preferably there is. By setting it as this range, the composite false twisted yarn obtained becomes easier to converge two polyester multifilament yarns, and tends to be more excellent in stretchability and snagability when made into a woven or knitted fabric.

  It is preferable that the total fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns is different from the viewpoint of further improving the converging property and further improving the snug property, and the total fineness of one polyester multifilament yarn is different from that of the other polyester multifilament yarn. It is more preferable that the total fineness is 1.3 times or more. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of further improving the bundling property and stretchability, it is more preferable that the total fineness of one polyester multifilament yarn is 1.8 times or more the total fineness of the other polyester multifilament yarn.

  As described above, the total fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns is different, and one of the two polyester multifilament yarns is a polyester dyeable polyester multifilament. When it is a yarn and the other is a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, it is preferable to increase the total fineness of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn. Cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarns are more susceptible to snags than cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarns. It is because it becomes easy to make it more excellent.

  The composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention requires that two polyester multifilaments do not exhibit a core-sheath two-layer structure. In the present invention, not having a core-sheath two-layer structure means that one multifilament is used as a core yarn and the other multifilament is not wound around the core yarn. Thereby, for example, there is no fear that the core yarn is tightened by the sheath yarn, and the obtained composite false twisted yarn has excellent stretch properties. As a method for preventing the core-sheath two-layer structure from being exhibited, for example, reducing the yarn length difference between two polyester multifilaments can be mentioned. A preferable yarn length difference is 0 to 5%.

  The above yarn length difference is obtained by taking a sample of 100 cm from a composite false twisted yarn, separating it into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn, and applying a load of 0.1 cN / dtex to each yarn. The length of the yarn in the state is measured and calculated according to the following formula (II).

  When the composite false twist yarn is subjected to an air entanglement treatment, the yarn length difference between the two polyester multifilaments does not substantially change before and after the treatment. Therefore, the measurement of the yarn length difference may be measured by taking a composite false twisted yarn before being entangled by an entanglement imparting device and separating it into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn. .

  As a method of setting the yarn length difference to 0 to 5%, for example, a method of setting the difference in elongation of two polyester multifilaments to be supplied yarns to 60%, preferably 30% or less, or two methods to supply yarns Examples include a method of adjusting the feed rate of the polyester multifilament.

  In the production method of the present invention, false twisting is required by a two-stage heater false twist method. In general, the two-stage heater false twisting method is false twisted yarn with low bulkiness and low residual torque, and is not applied to woven or knitted fabrics that usually require high stretchability. However, the present inventors surprisingly have excellent stretch properties while suppressing the occurrence of snag when made into a woven or knitted fabric by false twisting under the conditions described later by the two-stage heater false twist method. It has been found that the composite false twisted yarn can be applied to a woven or knitted fabric that requires high stretchability.

  FIG. 1 is a schematic process diagram for explaining an example of the production method of the present invention. First, one polyester multifilament yarn 1 and the other polyester multifilament yarn 2 are supplied to a supply roller 3.

  The two polyester multifilament yarns that have passed through the supply roller 3 are heated by the first heater 4. Here, the temperature of the 1st heater 4 needs to be 180 degreeC or more, and it is preferable to set it as 200 degreeC or more and 235 degrees C or less. By making it 180 degreeC or more and setting it as the false twist number etc. which are mentioned later, the composite false twisted yarn obtained becomes the thing excellent in the stretch property when it is set as a woven / knitted fabric. Moreover, by setting it as 200 degreeC or more and 235 degrees C or less, the composite false twisted yarn obtained becomes easier to make compatible the stretch property and snag property when it is set as a woven or knitted fabric. It does not specifically limit as a 1st heater, For example, a point contact type heater, a contact type heater, or a non-contact type heater is mentioned.

  The two polyester multifilament yarns heated by the first heater 4 are false twisted by the twisting device 5. At this time, it is necessary for the false twist coefficient K calculated by the following formula (I) to satisfy 32000-38000, and 33000-37000 is preferable. In the first-stage heater false twisting method and the two-stage heater false twisting method, the false twisting coefficient usually employed is about 30000. In the present invention, false twisting is performed as a false twist coefficient higher than the false twist coefficient normally employed. As a result, the composite false twisted yarn obtained has excellent stretchability and snagability when made into a woven or knitted fabric. Further, when false twisting is performed with a false twisting factor of about 30000 and the setting conditions of the two-stage heater described later are used, the shrinkage due to false twist crimping in the second heater of the composite false twisted yarn becomes insufficient, and the second heater This makes it easier for yarn to sway. And the composite false twisted yarn in which the yarn swayed has unevenness in the heat treatment by the second heater, and is inferior in stretch property and snag property when made into a woven or knitted fabric. However, according to the present invention, since the false twist coefficient K is 32000 to 38000, the shrinkage due to false twist crimp in the second heater is balanced with the overfeed rate of 20% or more, which will be described later. It is hard to occur and can be uniformly heat-treated, and has excellent stretch properties and snag properties when made into a woven or knitted fabric.

  It does not specifically limit as the twisting apparatus 5, For example, a pin, a friction disk, a turning nozzle, a belt etc. are mentioned. Examples of the twisting tension include 0.2 to 0.6 cN / dtex. The draw ratio in false twisting is not particularly limited, and examples include 1.3 to 1.8 times.

  The two polyester multifilament yarns subjected to false twisting are sent to the second heater 7 by the first delivery roller 6 and heat-treated.

  In this invention, the temperature of the 2nd heater 7 needs to be 160 degrees C or less, and it is preferable that it is 130-150 degreeC. In general, the two-stage heater false twisting method is applied for the purpose of obtaining false twisted yarn having a small residual torque in order to improve the woven or knitted article, and the temperature that is normally set is 170 ° C. or higher. However, in this case, the composite false twisted yarn obtained is inferior in bulkiness and inferior in stretch properties. On the other hand, in the present invention, the stretch property and the snag property can be made compatible by setting the temperature to 160 ° C. or lower, which is lower than the normally set temperature, and the overfeed rate described later. In particular, by setting the temperature to 130 to 150 ° C., the obtained composite false twisted yarn can be made more excellent in stretchability and snagability when made into a woven or knitted fabric. As the second heater 7, a non-contact heater is preferably employed. Since the composite false twisted yarn does not come into contact with the heater surface in the second heater, the occurrence of sink-like portions on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric due to stretching of the crimp is reduced, and the snag property is likely to be further improved.

  In the present invention, the overfeed rate in the second heater 7 needs to be 20% or more, preferably 25 to 60%, and more preferably 28 to 35%. In the two-stage heater false twisting method, the overfeed rate that is normally set is at most about 15% and never 20% or more. This is because yarn swaying occurs in the second heater. On the other hand, in the present invention, false twisting is performed as the above-mentioned high false twist coefficient, so that even if the overfeed rate in the second heater 7 is 20% or more, yarn fluctuation hardly occurs and uniform heat treatment can be performed. And by making 2nd heater temperature below 160 degree | times and making an overfeed rate into 20% or more, while making the stretch property excellent, the snag property was excellent although it did not exhibit a core sheath 2 layer structure. Can be. That is, in the present invention, the composite false twisted yarn does not exhibit a core-sheath two-layer structure and the conditions (1) to (3) according to the two-stage heater false twist method are closely related to each other. It is possible to achieve both sexiness.

  Although the mechanism of action of the composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention, which is excellent in stretchability and snag properties when made into a woven or knitted fabric, is not clear, it is a composite that is heated by a first heater and false twisted as a high false twist coefficient While the false twisted yarn is bulky, each single fiber in the composite false twisted yarn is irregularly crimped. By performing the heat treatment at the above-mentioned temperature at the above-mentioned overfeed rate in the second heater, It is presumed that the single fibers are easily aligned while maintaining a bulky state, and as a result, they are excellent in stretch properties and snag properties when made into a woven or knitted fabric.

  The composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention does not exhibit a core-sheath two-layer structure, and the single fibers are easily aligned like a composite false twisted yarn obtained by a two-stage heater false twist method under normal conditions. It becomes easy to keep a single fiber bulky like a composite false twisted yarn obtained by a one-stage heater false twist method under normal conditions. Therefore, of the two polyester multifilament yarns constituting the composite false twist yarn, one polyester multifilament yarn is a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, and the other is a cationic dye-dyed polyester multifilament yarn. In this case, if the woven or knitted fabric containing the composite false twist yarn is dyed with a cationic dye or a cationic dye and a disperse dye, a composite false twist yarn obtained by a two-stage heater false twist method or a one-stage heater false twist method under normal conditions. It has a tone appearance that cannot be expressed with. Specifically, when the single fibers are aligned to some extent, it becomes a running wrinkle that can not be expressed by the one-stage heater false twisting method, and the single fibers remain bulky (the crimped form is large). Compared with the two-stage heater false twist method, the running tack is shortened. In addition, by not exhibiting a core-sheath two-layer structure, the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn and the cationic dye-non-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn are uniformly exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, resulting in a top tone. Therefore, in the production method of the present invention, if the two polyester multifilament yarns are configured as described above, it is easy to achieve a top tone with an excellent top tone with a short running wrinkle expression.

  In the present invention, it is preferable to subject the composite false twisted yarn heat-treated with the second heater to an air entanglement treatment. Thereby, it becomes more difficult to separate the two polyester multifilament yarns constituting the composite false twist yarn. Although it does not specifically limit as the entanglement provision apparatus 9 which performs an air entanglement process, It is more preferable to use an interlace nozzle from a viewpoint of stretch property. It is not limited as an air pressure, For example, 0.5-2.0 MPa is mentioned. Examples of the number of entanglements imparted to the composite false twisted yarn include 50 to 130 / m.

  In the present invention, a twisting step of subjecting the composite false twisted yarn to additional twisting can be included. Thereby, the composite false twisted yarn obtained becomes more excellent in snag property. In the twisting process, when additional twisting is performed under conditions of 800 to 1500 T / M, a set temperature of 60 to 85 ° C., and a set time of 20 to 60 minutes, particularly excellent snag properties while maintaining excellent stretch properties can do.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention includes a composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention. This
While suppressing the generation of snag, it is possible to achieve excellent stretch properties without using a side-by-side conjugate yarn or polyurethane elastic yarn.

  The woven or knitted structure of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples of the woven structure include plain weave, oblique pattern weave, satin weave, twill weave, etc. Examples thereof include circular knitting structures such as knitting and interlock knitting, and warp knitting structures such as half knitting, denby knitting, and atlas knitting.

  From the standpoint of achieving both stretch and snag properties, the fabric density is preferably 50 to 180 / 2.54 cm in both warp and weft, depending on the total fineness of the composite false twisted yarn used. The course is preferably 28-80 pieces / 2.54 cm. From the same viewpoint, the cover factor of the fabric is preferably 2100 to 4000, and the cover factor of the knitted fabric is preferably 1000 to 2000. Here, the warp density and the weft density are measured and calculated according to the JIS L 1096: 2010 8.6.1A method, and the course density and the wale density are measured according to JIS L 1096: 2010 8.6.2. The cover factor CF of the woven fabric is calculated according to the following formula (III), and the cover factor CF of the knitted fabric is calculated according to the following formula (IV).

  In the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the mixing ratio of the composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention is preferably 30 to 100% in the case of a knitted fabric, preferably 50 to 100% in the case of a woven fabric, and more preferably 100% as a woven or knitted fabric. preferable.

  The woven fabric of the present invention has an elongation measured in accordance with JIS L 1096 2010 8.16.1 A method (constant speed elongation method), and both the weft and the weft are 10% or more, and JIS L 1058 2011 D- The snag properties evaluated in accordance with the three methods are preferably both grades and latitudes of 4 or more, the elongation is 15% or more and 12% or more, and the snag properties are both longitude and latitude. More preferably, it is quaternary or higher. In order to satisfy the above, in addition to including the composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention, it is possible to adjust the woven structure, the woven density, the cover factor, and the mixing ratio as appropriate.

  The knitted fabric of the present invention has an elongation measured in accordance with JIS L 1096 2010 8.16.1 A method (constant speed extension method) of 15% or more in the wale and course directions, and JIS L 1058 2011 D. It is preferable that the snag property evaluated based on -3 method is 3rd grade or more in a wale and a course direction. In order to satisfy the above, in addition to including the composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method of the present invention, it is possible to appropriately adjust the knitting structure, the knitting density, the cover factor, and the mixing ratio.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be dyed under conventionally known conditions. For example, when a cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament yarn is used as one multifilament yarn in the production method of the present invention, dyeing is performed using a cationic dye or a combination of a cationic dye and a disperse dye.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. In addition, the evaluation method in an Example and a comparative example is as follows.

1. Yarn length difference between two polyester multifilament yarns during composite false twist Measurement and calculation were performed by the method described above.

2. Total fineness, single fiber fineness The total fineness was measured and calculated according to the JIS L 1013 2010 8.3.1B method. Single fiber fineness was calculated by dividing the total fineness by the number of filaments.

3. Stretchability of woven / knitted fabric JIS L 1096 2010 8.16.1 Along with the method of A (constant speed elongation method), the longitudinal, weft or wale, and elongation in the course direction of the woven / knitted fabric was measured, calculated and evaluated. In the case of woven fabric, 10% or more in the warp and weft directions was accepted, and in the case of knitted fabric, 15% or more in both the wale and course directions were accepted.

4). Snag property The snag property of the woven or knitted fabric in the longitudinal, weft or wale and course directions was evaluated according to the JIS L 1058 2011 D-3 method. In the case of woven fabrics, both the warp and the weft are grades 4 and above, and in the case of knitted fabrics, the grades are 3 and above in both the wale and course directions.

Example 1
Of the two polyester multifilament yarns to be supplied, one polyester multifilament yarn is a polyester multifilament yarn having a polyester terephthalate of 280 dtex48 filament and an elongation of 120.3%, the other polyester multifilament yarn. As the filament yarn, a polyester multifilament yarn having 140 dtex 36 filaments and 132.1% elongation, which is composed of polyethylene terephthalate, was prepared.

  The two polyester multifilament yarns described above were processed according to the process shown in FIG. First, the above-mentioned two polyester multifilament yarns were supplied to the supply roller 3 and heated under the conditions shown in Table 1 with the first heater 4 which is a contact heater, and false twisting was performed with the twisting device 5. . Subsequently, the two polyester multifilament yarns subjected to false twisting are sent to the second heater 7 which is a non-contact type heater by the first delivery roller 6 and heat-treated under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a composite false twist yarn. It was. Next, using an interlace nozzle as the entanglement imparting device 9, the obtained composite false twisted yarn is sent to the entanglement imparting device 9 by the second delivery roller 8, and the obtained composite false twisted yarn is entangled under the conditions shown in Table 1. Then, it was wound around a package 12 to obtain a composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. The yarn length difference, elongation, total fineness, and single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns in the composite false twist are the composite before passing through the second delivery roller 8 and entangled by the entanglement imparting device 9. The false twisted yarn was taken out, and the one separated into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn was measured. Further, the total fineness of the composite false twisted yarn was measured using the composite false twisted yarn wound around the package 12.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft, and was used as a raw material of an Oxford structure having a warp density of 86 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 / 2.54 cm. Subsequently, the obtained raw machine was relaxed and scoured using a scourer, and the temperature was 130 ° C. using a disperse dye (DyStar's trade name DIANIX NAVY BLUE UN-SE 200%: 2.5 owf). Dyeing was performed under the condition of dyeing for 30 minutes. Thereafter, a finishing set was performed at 160 ° C. for 20 seconds to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 106 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 98 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 3255. The stretchability and snag property of the fabric were evaluated using the fabric.

(Example 2)
The composite false twisted yarn obtained in Example 1 was twisted at 1200 T / M in the S direction and heat-set under the conditions of 85 ° C. × 40 minutes to obtain the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. The yarn length difference, elongation, total fineness, and single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns in the composite false twist are the composite before passing through the second delivery roller 8 and entangled by the entanglement imparting device 9. The false twisted yarn was taken out, and the one separated into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn was measured. Further, the total fineness of the composite false twisted yarn was measured using the composite false twisted yarn wound around the package 12.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft, and was used as a raw material of an Oxford structure having a warp density of 86 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 80 / 2.54 cm. Next, the obtained raw machine was relaxed and scoured using a scourer, subjected to liquid flow relaxation at a temperature of 130 ° C., dried and preset at a temperature of 190 ° C. The pre-set fabric was dyed with a disperse dye (trade name DIANIX NAVY BLUE UN-SE 200%: 2.5 owf manufactured by DyStar) at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, finishing set was performed at 150 ° C. for 30 seconds to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 102 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 94 / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 3127. The stretchability and snag property of the fabric were evaluated using the fabric.

(Example 3)
Using the composite false twisted yarn obtained in Example 1, a circular knitted fabric having an inlay structure was knitted using a 22G33 inch circular knitting machine. Next, the obtained circular knitted fabric was relaxed and scoured using a scouring machine, and the temperature was set to 130 using a disperse dye (DyStar's trade name DIANIX NAVY BLUE UN-SE 200%: 2.5 owf). Dyeing was carried out at 30 ° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, a finishing set was performed at 170 ° C. for 30 seconds to obtain a knitted fabric having a wale density of 56 pieces / 2.54 cm, a course density of 36 pieces / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 1468. The stretchability and snag property of the knitted fabric were evaluated using the knitted fabric.

Example 4
Of the two polyester multifilament yarns used as the supply yarn, the polyester constituting one polyester multifilament yarn is polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid with 1.5 mol% of the total acid component. As a polyester multifilament yarn, a polyester dyeable dyeable polyester multifilament yarn having a 277.8 dtex48 filament and an elongation of 133.8% is used as the other polyester multifilament yarn. The polyester is polyethylene terephthalate, 130 dtex36 filament, and an elongation of 123.1%. A cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn was prepared.

  The two polyester multifilament yarns described above were processed according to the process shown in FIG. First, the above-mentioned two polyester multifilament yarns were supplied to the supply roller 3 and heated under the conditions shown in Table 1 with the first heater 4 which is a contact heater, and false twisting was performed with the twisting device 5. . Subsequently, the two polyester multifilament yarns subjected to false twisting are sent to the second heater 7 which is a non-contact type heater by the first delivery roller 6 and heat-treated under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a composite false twist yarn. It was. Next, using an interlace nozzle as the entanglement imparting device 9, the obtained composite false twisted yarn is sent to the entanglement imparting device 9 by the second delivery roller 8, and the obtained composite false twisted yarn is entangled under the conditions shown in Table 1. Then, it was wound around a package 12 to obtain a composite false twisted yarn of the present invention. The yarn length difference, elongation, total fineness, and single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns in the composite false twist are the composite before passing through the second delivery roller 8 and entangled by the entanglement imparting device 9. The false twisted yarn was taken out, and the one separated into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn was measured. Further, the total fineness of the composite false twisted yarn was measured using the composite false twisted yarn wound around the package 12.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to make a 3/1 twill weave with a warp density of 80 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 / 2.54 cm. Subsequently, the obtained raw machine is scoured using a scouring machine, and a disperse dye (trade name DIANIX Powder BLUE SE CONC: 3.6% owf, manufactured by DyStar), cationic dye (trade name, manufactured by Hitachi Chemical Co., Ltd.) C. D.P.N BLACK IT-ID: 3.6% owf) was used for staining at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, a finishing set was performed at 150 ° C. for 30 seconds to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 98 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 88 / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 2930. The stretchability and snag property of the fabric were evaluated using the fabric.

(Comparative Example 1)
As the two polyester multifilament yarns used as the supply yarn, the same ones as in Example 4 were prepared.

  The two polyester multifilament yarns described above were processed according to the process shown in FIG. First, the above-mentioned two polyester multifilament yarns were supplied to the supply roller 3 and heated under the conditions shown in Table 1 with the first heater 4 which is a contact heater, and false twisting was performed with the twisting device 5. . Subsequently, the two polyester multifilament yarns subjected to false twisting are sent to the second heater 7 which is a non-contact type heater by the first delivery roller 6 and heat-treated under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a composite false twist yarn. It was. Next, using an interlace nozzle as the entanglement imparting device 9, the obtained composite false twisted yarn is sent to the entanglement imparting device 9 by the second delivery roller 8, and the obtained composite false twisted yarn is entangled under the conditions shown in Table 1. Then, it was wound around a package 12 to obtain a composite false twisted yarn of a comparative example. The yarn length difference, elongation, total fineness, and single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns in the composite false twist are the composite before passing through the second delivery roller 8 and entangled by the entanglement imparting device 9. The false twisted yarn was taken out, and the one separated into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn was measured. Further, the total fineness of the composite false twisted yarn was measured using the composite false twisted yarn wound around the package 12.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to make a 3/1 twill weave with a warp density of 80 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 / 2.54 cm. Subsequently, the obtained raw machine is scoured by a conventional method, and a disperse dye (trade name: DIANIX Powder BLUE SE CONC: 3.6% owf, manufactured by DyStar), a cationic dye (trade name: C.H., manufactured by Hitachi Chemical Co., Ltd.). D.P. BLACK BLACK IT-ID: 3.6% owf) was stained at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, finishing set was performed at 150 ° C. for 30 seconds to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 92 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 84 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 2933. The stretchability and snag property of the fabric were evaluated using the fabric.

(Comparative Example 2)
The composite false twisted yarn obtained in Comparative Example 1 was twisted at 1200 T / M in the S direction and heat-set under conditions of 85 ° C. × 40 minutes to obtain a composite false twisted yarn of Comparative Example. The yarn length difference, elongation, total fineness, and single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns in the composite false twist are the composite before passing through the second delivery roller 8 and entangled by the entanglement imparting device 9. The false twisted yarn was taken out, and the one separated into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn was measured. Further, the total fineness of the composite false twisted yarn was measured using the composite false twisted yarn wound around the package 12.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to make a 3/1 twill weave with a warp density of 80 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 / 2.54 cm. Subsequently, the obtained raw machine is scoured by a conventional method, and a disperse dye (trade name: DIANIX Powder BLUE SE CONC: 3.6% owf, manufactured by DyStar), a cationic dye (trade name: C.H., manufactured by Hitachi Chemical Co., Ltd.). D.P. BLACK BLACK IT-ID: 3.6% owf) was stained at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, finishing set was performed at 150 ° C. for 30 seconds to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 88 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 78 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 2773. The stretchability and snag property of the fabric were evaluated using the fabric.

(Comparative Example 3)
As the two polyester multifilament yarns used as the supply yarn, the same ones as in Example 4 were prepared.

  The above-mentioned two polyester multifilament yarns are supplied to the supply roller 3, heated under the conditions shown in Table 1 with the first heater 4 which is a contact heater, and subjected to false twisting by the twisting device 5, and a composite false twist yarn It was. That is, the composite false twist was performed by the one-stage heater false twist method. Subsequently, an interlace nozzle is used as the entanglement imparting device 9, and the first false delivery roller 6 and the second heater 7 are not allowed to pass through the composite false twisted yarn subjected to false twisting. 9 and the resulting composite false twisted yarn was entangled under the conditions shown in Table 1 and wound around the package 12 to obtain a composite false twisted yarn of a comparative example. The yarn length difference, elongation, total fineness, and single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns in the composite false twist are the composite before passing through the second delivery roller 8 and entangled by the entanglement imparting device 9. The false twisted yarn was taken out, and the one separated into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn was measured. Further, the total fineness of the composite false twisted yarn was measured using the composite false twisted yarn wound around the package 12.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft to make a 3/1 twill weave with a warp density of 80 / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 72 / 2.54 cm. Subsequently, the obtained raw machine is scoured by a conventional method, and a disperse dye (trade name: DIANIX Powder BLUE SE CONC: 3.6% owf, manufactured by DyStar), a cationic dye (trade name: C.H., manufactured by Hitachi Chemical Co., Ltd.). D.P. BLACK BLACK IT-ID: 3.6% owf) was stained at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 30 minutes. Thereafter, finishing set was performed at 150 ° C. for 30 seconds to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 95 / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 86 / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 2615. The stretchability and snag property of the fabric were evaluated using the fabric.

(Comparative Example 4)
Of the two polyester multifilament yarns to be supplied, one polyester multifilament yarn is a 94 dtex 48 filament whose polyester is polyethylene terephthalate, a polyester multifilament yarn having an elongation of 116.5%, and the other polyester multifilament yarn. As the filament yarn, a polyester multifilament yarn having 52.5 dtex 36 filaments and an elongation of 114.9%, the polyester of which is polyethylene terephthalate, was prepared.

  The two polyester multifilament yarns described above were processed according to the process shown in FIG. First, the above-mentioned two polyester multifilament yarns were supplied to the supply roller 3 and heated under the conditions shown in Table 1 with the first heater 4 which is a contact heater, and false twisting was performed with the twisting device 5. . Subsequently, the two polyester multifilament yarns subjected to false twisting are sent to the second heater 7 which is a non-contact type heater by the first delivery roller 6 and heat-treated under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a composite false twist yarn. It was. Next, using an interlace nozzle as the entanglement imparting device 9, the obtained composite false twisted yarn is sent to the entanglement imparting device 9 by the second delivery roller 8, and the obtained composite false twisted yarn is entangled under the conditions shown in Table 1. Then, it was wound around a package 12 to obtain a composite false twisted yarn of a comparative example. The yarn length difference, elongation, total fineness, and single fiber fineness of the two polyester multifilament yarns in the composite false twist are the composite before passing through the second delivery roller 8 and entangled by the entanglement imparting device 9. The false twisted yarn was taken out, and the one separated into one polyester multifilament yarn and the other polyester multifilament yarn was measured. Further, the total fineness of the composite false twisted yarn was measured using the composite false twisted yarn wound around the package 12.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was used for warp and weft, and was used as a raw material of an Oxford structure having a warp density of 134 yarns / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 120 yarns / 2.54 cm. Subsequently, the obtained raw machine was relaxed and scoured using a scourer, and the temperature was 130 ° C. using a disperse dye (DyStar's trade name DIANIX NAVY BLUE UN-SE 200%: 2.5 owf). Dyeing was performed under the condition of dyeing for 30 minutes. Thereafter, a finishing set was performed at 160 ° C. for 20 seconds to obtain a woven fabric having a warp density of 156 yarns / 2.54 cm, a weft density of 138 yarns / 2.54 cm, and a cover factor of 3193. The stretchability and snag property of the fabric were evaluated using the fabric.

(Comparative Examples 5 and 6)
A composite false twisted yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the two-stage heater false twist method was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1.

  The obtained results are shown in Table 1.

  Since Examples 1-4 performed false twisting on the conditions which satisfy the conditions of above-mentioned (1)-(3) by the two-stage heater false twist method, the obtained compound false twisted yarn was woven and knitted. While suppressing the generation of snag when it was done, it was excellent in stretch properties without using side-by-side conjugate yarn or polyurethane elastic yarn. Among them, Example 4 satisfied the above-mentioned conditions (1) to (3) by the two-stage heater false twisting method, despite using a cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn that is disadvantageous for snag properties. Since the total fineness of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn was 1.5 times or more the total fineness of the cationic dye-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, The obtained composite false-twisted yarn had higher converging properties and excellent snag properties. In addition, Example 4 is different from the rough tones obtained in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, and is different from the natural small tones obtained from the composite false twisted yarn with the core-sheath two-layer structure, and has a short running wrinkle expression. It was possible to obtain a tonal appearance with excellent tone.

  On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 and 2 had a false twist coefficient of less than 32000, a temperature of the second heater of over 160 ° C., and an overfeed rate of less than 20% (conditions of a normal two-stage heater false twist method) Therefore, the obtained composite false twisted yarn was inferior in stretchability when made into a woven fabric. In addition, the tone appearance was not a top tone tone appearance with a short running tone expression, but a rough tone.

  Since the comparative example 3 performed false twisting by the 1 stage heater false twist method which makes false twist coefficient less than 32000, the obtained composite false twisted thread is slightly inferior to the stretch property when it is used as a woven fabric, and has snag properties. It was inferior. In addition, the sensation after dyeing was superior to that of Example 4.

  In Comparative Example 4, the false twisting coefficient was less than 32000, and false twisting was performed under the conditions satisfying the above conditions (1) and (3). Shrinkage was insufficient and yarn swaying occurred in the second heater, and the resulting composite false twisted yarn was inferior in stretchability and snagability when made into a woven fabric.

  In Comparative Example 5, since the overfeed rate in the second heater was less than 20%, the composite false twisted yarn was inferior in stretchability when subjected to heat in a state where the crimp was stretched to form a woven fabric. It was.

  In Comparative Example 6, since the temperature of the second heater exceeded 160 ° C., the composite false twisted yarn received excessive heat and was crimped or inferior in stretchability when used as a woven fabric. It was.

1 one multifilament yarn 2 other multifilament yarn 3 supply roller 4 first heater 5 twisting device 6 first delivery roller 7 second heater 8 second delivery roller 9 entanglement applying device 10 third delivery roller 11 Winding roller 12 package

Claims (7)

A method for producing a composite false twisted yarn comprising two polyester multifilament yarns and having no core-sheath two-layer structure,
A method for producing a composite false twisted yarn, which is false twisted under conditions satisfying the following conditions (1) to (3) by a two-stage heater false twist method.
(1) The first heater temperature is 180 ° C. or higher and the second heater temperature is 160 ° C. or lower. (2) The false twist coefficient K calculated by the following formula (I) is 32000-38000.
(3) Overfeed rate in the second heater is 20% or more   The method for producing a composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the single filament fineness of the polyester multifilament yarn is 0.5 to 5.0 dtex.   The total fineness of one polyester multifilament yarn is 84 to 330 dtex among the two polyester multifilament yarns, and the total fineness of the other polyester multifilament yarn is 56 to 220 dtex. A method for producing a composite false twisted yarn.   The total fineness of one polyester multifilament yarn is 1.3 times or more of the total fineness of the other polyester multifilament yarn among the two polyester multifilament yarns. A method for producing a composite false twisted yarn.   Of the two polyester multifilament yarns, one polyester multifilament yarn is a cationic dye dyeable polyester multifilament yarn, and the other is a cationic dye non-dyeable polyester multifilament yarn. The manufacturing method of the composite false twist yarn of any one of Claims 1. A woven fabric comprising a composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method according to any one of claims 1 to 5,
The elongation measured according to JIS L 1096 2010 8.16.1 A method (constant speed extension method) is 10% or more in the longitude and latitude directions,
A woven fabric characterized in that the snag property evaluated according to the JIS L 1058 2011 D-3 method is grade 4 or higher in the warp and weft directions. A knitted fabric comprising a composite false twisted yarn obtained by the production method according to any one of claims 1 to 5,
Elongation measured according to JIS L 1096 2010 8.16.1 A method (constant speed extension method) is 15% or more in the wale and course directions,
A knitted fabric characterized in that the snag property evaluated in accordance with JIS L 1058 2011 D-3 method is grade 3 or higher in the wale and course directions.