JPH0657581A - Stretchable woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a stretchable woven fabric having excellent fabric quality. CONSTITUTION:The woven fabric is composed of multifilament yarn as the warp and single covered yarn of an elastic fiber as the weft. The twist number of the single covered yarn is 500-1,200T/m and one or two each of S-twist yarns and Z-twist yarns are alternately arranged to form the stretchable woven fabric having excellent fabric quality.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

FIELD OF THE INVENTION This invention relates to stretch fabrics.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Stretchable fabrics using elastic fibers typified by polyurethane have been widely used for innerwear and support stockings, especially in knitted fabrics because of their high stretchability and stretchback property. For textiles, for example, ski wear has been proposed as a mixed woven product using elastic fibers obtained by covering polyester multifilament yarns as warp yarns and polyester multifilament yarns as weft yarns. However, especially when the single-covered yarn is used for the weft, twisting of the fabric occurs or a good fabric quality cannot be obtained.

[0003]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a stretchable woven fabric which solves the above drawbacks.

[0004]

The present invention is a woven fabric comprising a single covered yarn in which the warp yarn is a multifilament yarn and the weft yarn is an elastic fiber, and the twist number of the single covered yarn is 500 to 1200 T / m. In addition, the stretchable woven fabric is characterized in that one S yarn and two Z yarns are alternately arranged. Regarding the cause of impairing the fabric quality, the present inventors have variously examined factors that constitute the fabric such as material, denier, number of filaments, structure, density, etc., and found that there is a large correlation with the twist direction of the single covered yarn. It was clarified that an excellent quality can be obtained by alternately using S twisted yarn and Z twisted yarn of a single covered yarn having a specific twist number.

Generally, in the case of a strongly twisted yarn of 2000 T / m or more, it is known that the S twisted yarn and the Z twisted yarn are alternately used, but they are alternately used at a low twist number level of 500 to 1200 T / m as in the present invention. It is never used and is not known to be used alternately in weft insertion of single covered yarns.

The elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably a polyurethane yarn or a polyether polyester block copolymer type compound having a fineness of 10 to 140,
10 to 70 denier is preferable, and the yarn to be coated is a multifilament yarn such as polyester or nylon,
Spun yarn and crimped yarn are used, and their fineness is 20 to 15
0 is preferably 75 to 150 denier, the draft ratio of the elastic fiber at the time of coating is 100 to 350%, and the number of twists to be wound is 500 to 1200 T / m (covering property is insufficient at less than 500 T / m and 1200 T / m is required). If it exceeds the above range, the covering property will not be further improved, but only the cost will be increased, and the drawback of being liable to occur will easily occur), and its weight ratio is preferably 1 to 5 times that of the elastic fiber.

In the present invention, one or two S-twisted yarns and Z-twisted yarns of such a single-covered yarn are alternately formed, and the object of the present invention is to provide the S-twisted yarns and the Z-twisted yarns alone, or three or more alternately. Not achieved. The fineness and the number of twists of the S twist yarn and the Z twist yarn should be almost the same (± 10%, preferably ±
Within 5% is good. ).

On the other hand, the multifilament yarn of the warp preferably has a twist coefficient (= twist number × √fineness) of 5000 to 2
It is preferable to use twisted yarn of 8000, preferably 5000 to 10000, because residual strain is small and stretch back property is excellent, and materials include silk, cupra, rayon, polyester, nylon, acrylic, etc., but polyester and nylon are particularly preferable. Also, the same material as the covering yarn of the single covered yarn is preferable.

The form of the multifilament yarn may be used as it is as a raw yarn, or a false twist crimped yarn, a fluid jet processed yarn, a design yarn such as a slab yarn by a phase difference false twist, a sheath core structure processed yarn, a yarn length. A so-called thick and thin yarn having a partially undrawn portion in the direction, a different shrinkage mixed yarn by spinning or post-mixing (for example, JP-A-55-57013 and JP-A-4-10).
0945 etc.), carded yarn such as high elongation yarn such as polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn (POY), and low elongation yarn such as polyester regular yarn, cationic dyeable yarn or 60
It may be a draw-entangled entangled false-twisted yarn with a spin-take ab yarn spun at a winding speed of 00 m / min or more, and may be appropriately selected according to the desired fabric texture. The fineness of the multifilament yarn is 30 to 200, preferably 75 to 150.
Denier, filament number 10-150, preferably 3
6 to 96 is preferable.

Regarding the structure of the woven fabric, there are flat, twill, satin and modified structures thereof, but the satin design is particularly preferable, and the weaving density is 130 to 200, preferably 150 to 180 yarns /
Inch, weft 50-90, preferably 60-80 lines / inch, finishing density 150-220, preferably 170-
200 lines / inch, weft 60-100, preferably 70-9
It is 0 / inch.

At the time of finishing, it is essential to process so as not to generate wrinkles and uneven widths. For example, a process of putting in a winding form, processing in a spread state, and then winding without shaking off is adopted. Preferably. As the finishing step, after weaving, hot water relaxation (1 to 5 minutes in the range of 40 to 100 ° C., in particular, a multi-step relaxation of two or three or more steps in which the temperature is changed from low temperature is preferable), a preset (160 At 190 ° C. for 10 to 30 seconds), if necessary, an alkali weight reduction process of about 10 to 30%, and then a dyeing finish process.

[0012]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples.

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity (η) of 0.65 as a low-shrinkage component yarn was spun from a spinneret at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C., cooled with an air flow from one direction orthogonal to the yarn, The unstretched yarn wound at a speed of 1500 m / min is heat-stretched, and then reheat-stretched to give 50
A d / 36f yarn (boiling water shrinkage ratio 6%, initial tensile resistance of original yarn 1400 kg / mm ² , initial tensile resistance after boiling water treatment 1000 kg / mm ² ) was obtained. As a highly-shrinkable component yarn, an intrinsic viscosity (η) of 0.75,2,2-bis {4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl} propane was copolymerized with 10 mol of all glycol components, and polyethylene terephthalate was spun at 800 m / After winding at a speed of a minute, heat drawing is performed, and a yarn of 30d / 12f (boiling water shrinkage 22%,
Initial yarn tensile resistance of 1050 kg / mm ^2, was obtained after boiling water treatment of the initial tensile resistance degree 450kg / mm ^2). These yarns are interlaced and mixed to obtain a different shrinkage mixed yarn having an entanglement number of 64 and a total boiling water shrinkage rate of 21%, and further 1000
The twisted yarn (twisting coefficient 8944) of twisting / m is used for the warp,
For the weft yarn, a polyurethane-based elastic fiber 40d (made by Asahi Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd., trade name Roika) with a polyester multi-filament yarn of 150d / 96f in a single direction with a twist number of 700 T / m in the S direction and a Z number of the same twist number Weaving 5 satin woven fabrics by alternately wefting two yarns with single covering of direction (warp 103 yarns / inch, weft 80 yarns / inch), then relaxing with hot water, presetting, and dyeing according to the usual method , Finish processing (warp 153 / inch, weft 90 /
inch).

As a comparative example, a satin woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as in the example except that three S-twisted yarns, only Z-twisted yarns, and three S-twisted yarns and Z-twisted yarns were alternately inserted and finished in the same manner. In the examples, the fabric was not twisted and the fabric quality was excellent, but in all the comparative examples, the fabric was twisted and the fabric quality was poor.

[0015]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION The present invention provides a stretchable fabric excellent in fabric quality.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric comprising a single covered yarn in which a warp yarn is a multifilament yarn and a weft yarn is an elastic fiber, and the twist number of the single covered yarn is 500 to 12.
Stretchable woven fabric, which is 00 T / m and is configured by alternating one or two S twist yarns and Z twist yarns.