JP2003113554A - Composite fabric and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Composite fabric and method for producing the same

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Publication number
JP2003113554A
JP2003113554A JP2002223254A JP2002223254A JP2003113554A JP 2003113554 A JP2003113554 A JP 2003113554A JP 2002223254 A JP2002223254 A JP 2002223254A JP 2002223254 A JP2002223254 A JP 2002223254A JP 2003113554 A JP2003113554 A JP 2003113554A
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yarn
polyester
composite
fiber
fabric
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JP2003113554A5 (en
JP4292763B2 (en
Inventor
Motoharu Kitajima
Keitaro Nabeshima
Hidetoshi Suzuki
Nobuyuki Tanabe
基晴 北嶋
信幸 田辺
秀利 鈴木
鍋島  敬太郎
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Toray Ind Inc
東レ株式会社
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Priority to JP2001-233204 priority
Priority to JP2001-233203 priority
Priority to JP2002223254A priority patent/JP4292763B2/en
Application filed by Toray Ind Inc, 東レ株式会社 filed Critical Toray Ind Inc
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Publication of JP2003113554A publication Critical patent/JP2003113554A/en
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Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a fabric having a soft and resilient feeling. SOLUTION: This composite fabric comprises a polyester-based conjugate yarn comprising two or more kinds of polyester-based polymers in which at least one component is a polyester consisting essentially of a polytrimethylene terephthalate, and at least one kind of fiber selected from a natural fiber, a regenerated fiber comprising a cellulosic polymer, a semisynthetic fiber and a refined cellulose fiber.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD [0001] The present invention has been made semi-visible, which gives a soft stretchability when formed into a cloth, and is non-torque, so that it is difficult for grain to appear and a soft and repulsive texture is given. Polyester composite yarn that exhibits excellent three-dimensional crimps by crimping and heat treatment at normal temperature / normal temperature in low temperature region, selected from natural fiber, regenerated fiber composed of cellulosic polymer, semi-synthetic fiber, and purified cellulose fiber The present invention relates to a composite fabric with at least one fiber and a method for producing the same.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Since polyester fibers have various excellent properties including mechanical properties, they are widely used not only for clothing. In addition, various methods have been adopted in order to impart stretchability to a polyester-based cloth by a recent stretch boom.

For example, there is a method of imparting stretchability by mixing polyurethane type elastic fibers in a woven fabric. However, when polyurethane-based elastic fibers are mixed, the texture is hard as a property peculiar to polyurethane, the texture and drape of the woven fabric are deteriorated, and there is a problem that wrinkles easily occur due to the lack of setability and the pleat property is poor. . In addition, disperse dyes for polyester are difficult to dye, and there is a problem of contamination. Therefore, not only is the dyeing process complicated, such as strengthening the reduction washing, but it is difficult to dye the desired color.

There is also a method of imparting stretchability to a woven fabric by subjecting a polyester fiber to false twisting and using a fiber that exhibits twisting / untwisting torque. However, the false twisted yarn has a feeling of warping and tends to transfer torque to the texture on the surface of the woven fabric, which is apt to be a woven fabric defect. For this reason, it has been attempted to balance the torque by heat treatment or S / Z twisting to balance the stretchability and the defects due to wrinkling, but there has been a problem that the stretchability is generally too low. ..

On the other hand, various latent crimp-expressing polyester fibers utilizing a side-by-side composite have been proposed as a method that does not use polyurethane-based elastic fibers or false twisted yarns. The latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber has the ability to develop crimps by heat treatment or to develop finer crimps than before heat treatment, and is distinguished from ordinary false twisted yarns. .

For example, JP-B-44-2504 and JP-A-4-308271 disclose side-by-side type composite yarns of polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) having a difference in intrinsic viscosity or a difference in intrinsic viscosity, and JP-A-5-205.
JP-A-295634 describes a side-by-side composite yarn of homo-PET and copolymer PET having a higher shrinkability than that of homo-PET. Although it is possible to obtain a certain degree of stretchability by using such a latent crimp developable polyester fiber, the stretchability when formed into a woven fabric is insufficient, and it is difficult to obtain a satisfactory stretchable woven fabric. was there. This is because the side-by-side type composite yarn as described above has a low crimp-developing ability during binding of the woven fabric, or the crimp is easily set by external force. The side-by-side type composite yarn does not use the stretchability due to the expansion and contraction of the fiber itself like the polyurethane-based elastic fiber, but uses the stretchability of the three-dimensional coil caused by the difference in shrinkage ratio between the composite polymers for the stretchability. . Therefore, for example, when the polymer is subjected to heat treatment under a woven fabric constraint in which the shrinkage is restricted, the polymer is heat-set as it is, and further shrinkage ability is lost, so that the coil is not sufficiently developed and the above problem is considered to occur. Furthermore, when the composite yarn is used alone as a fabric, when it is used in combination with other fibers, there is a problem in the crimp development ability due to the binding force.

A particularly big problem is the conventional PET / PET.
In order to develop latent three-dimensional crimps in the dyeing process, it is not possible to use latent-type conjugate yarns under the temperature conditions of normal temperature and normal pressure. It is necessary to give the cloth some action such as kneading effect, and there is no problem with the mixed cloth with heat resistant fiber such as polyester fiber, but it can be applied to the composite cloth such as natural fiber or synthetic fiber such as acetate or synthetic fiber such as nylon. There wasn't. For example, in the dyeing process of cotton fabric, normally, a mercerizing process is essential, but this mercerizing process cannot be crimped because it is heat-treated at high temperature in a tension state after padding in a high-concentration alkaline solution, Since the crimp is not heat-cured and the crimp-developing ability disappears, the crimp does not develop in the subsequent steps. Therefore, it is necessary to express it before the mercerizing process. Generally, the mercerizing process is generally incorporated in the continuous dyeing process, and since it is processed in a spread state from a raw machine, it is necessary to develop stretch in a relaxed temperature range of normal temperature and normal pressure.

Also, unlike cotton and hemp, natural fibers composed of animal protein, such as wool and silk, have a great influence on the heat and humidity temperature, pH, and external force (fir), so that the dyeing process conditions should be carefully considered. is necessary. In the processing of greige, it is usually necessary to carry out both the preheat treatment and the dyeing in the normal pressure / normal temperature region for the wet heat temperature. Scouring and relaxing are carried out in the pre-dyeing step, but since animal fibers are felted or fibrillated due to the effect of rubbing on the high temperature side, they are carried out in the range of low temperature to 95 ° C in the spread state. The dyeing temperature must be 110 ° C. or lower at the highest. Therefore, the polyester-based conjugate fiber composed of two or more kinds of polyester-based polymers used in combination with such animal natural fiber is a conventional PET / PE.
From the T series, a crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn in which at least one component is made of polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate is preferable because it can be carried out in the wet heat temperature range on the low temperature side, and more preferably polytrimethylene terephthalate. A homopolymer is desirable.

In addition, Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-19108 discloses a side-by-side type composite yarn using polytrimethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate. By using the method described in this patent publication, an appropriate stretchability can be imparted, but since the crimps between the single fibers have a strong tendency to associate with each other, the shrinkage force due to the coil crimps has anisotropy, and therefore there is no When used in a twist to a sweet twist, a willow-like grain appears. In addition, when the present inventors conducted a supplementary test,
It has also been found that the yarn quality is poor due to yarn unevenness that is thought to be due to the low spinning speed. This problem is that these side-by-side type composite yarns require high-temperature and high-pressure conditions in which the temperature for developing the crimps satisfying the crimp-expressing dyeing process exceeds the range of normal pressure, and the spread-like state. It is difficult to develop crimps in, for example, it was necessary to develop crimps in the action of a stream in the form of a loop, so the strength in the wet state is low, and the natural fibers and cellulosic chemical fibers have poor abrasion resistance. There was a problem with the combination with.

Further, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 11-269780 describes a method for dyeing a mixed product in which polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and cellulose fiber are mixed, and a dyeing method using a disperse dye and a reactive dye is shown. However, there is no disclosure of specific contents using a core / sheath type or side-by-side type composite yarn having a crimp-developing ability, and it relates to improvement within the range of conventional dyeing conditions. Although it is possible to improve the dyeing fastness by dyeing a fabric using the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, it is difficult to achieve a new effect such as stretchability on the fabric in good quality by combining it with the cellulose fiber.

[0011]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, a three-dimensional crimp is developed in a dyeing process in a relaxed heat treatment condition of a fabric at a room temperature and a normal pressure region, and there is no dye contamination which is a problem in a fabric containing a polyurethane elastic fiber. Improves the inferior crimping ability under fabric constraint, which is a problem with conventional polyester latent crimpable fibers and false twisted yarns, and is excellent in stretchability and has less wrinkles and dyeing It is an object of the present invention to provide a high-quality fabric with less wrinkles and dyeing spots during processing.

[0012]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention adopts the following constitutions. That is, (1)
A polyester-based composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester-based polymers, at least one of which is composed of polyester whose main component is polytrimethylene terephthalate;
A composite fabric comprising at least one fiber selected from semi-synthetic fibers and purified cellulose fibers.

(2) In the above (1), the polyester-based composite yarn is a semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn which develops crimps when unwound from a package in a yarn making process. The composite fabric described.

(3) The composite fabric as described in (1) or (2) above, which is heat-treated to allow the polyester-based composite yarn to develop shrinkage and three-dimensional coiled crimps. .

(4) The composite fabric according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein the polyester-based composite yarn has a stretching elongation ratio before heat treatment of 10 to 40%.

(5) In the above (3) or (4), the stretch elongation percentage after heat treatment of the polyester-based composite yarn is 30 to 150%, and the stretch elastic modulus is 85% or more. The composite fabric described.

(6) The polyester-based composite yarn is woven or knitted with at least one fiber yarn selected from cotton yarn, spun rayon yarn, copper ammonia rayon yarn, acetate filament yarn and refined cellulose fiber yarn. 7. The composite fabric according to any one of (1) to (5) above.

(7) The regenerated fiber composed of the cellulose-based polymer is a viscose filament and / or a spun yarn made from bamboo as a raw material.
~ The composite fabric according to any one of (6).

(8) The polyester-based composite yarn is formed into a composite fiber bundle and at least one fiber yarn selected from cotton yarn, spun rayon yarn, cuprammonium rayon yarn, acetate filament yarn and refined cellulose fiber yarn. The expansion and contraction rate of the composite fiber bundle after heat treatment is 10
It is -60%, The composite cloth in any one of said (1)-(7) characterized by the above-mentioned.

(9) The above-mentioned polyester-based composite yarn having a twist coefficient K of 0 to 20,000, which is untwisted to center-twisted, is used at least in part (1) to (8). 7. The composite fabric according to any one of 1.

However, twist coefficient K = T × D 0.5 T: number of twists per 1 m of yarn length, D: fineness of yarn (dtex) (10) When the polyester composite yarn is unwound from the package (3) The three-dimensional crimp has peaks and valleys that are out of phase between the monofilaments of the yarn, and the crimps are expressed in a coil shape, according to any one of the above (1) to (9). Composite fabric.

(11) When the polyester-based composite yarn is unwound from the package, the three-dimensional crimp peaks and troughs are coiled in a form in which the phases of the peaks and valleys are aligned between the single fibers of the yarn. The composite fabric according to any one of (1) to (9) above, which is a product.

(12) The composite fabric according to any one of the above (1) to (9), wherein the polyester-based composite yarn has a coiled hollow structure at the center in the lengthwise direction of the yarn.

(13) A polyester-based composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester-based polymers, at least one of which is composed of polyester whose main component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, and a recycled material composed of natural fibers and cellulose-based polymers. A composite fabric containing at least one fiber selected from fibers, semi-synthetic fibers and refined cellulose fibers is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment to develop a three-dimensional crimp in the polyester-based composite yarn, and then dyed. Method for manufacturing composite fabric.

(14) A dyeing process is carried out after the latent fabric three-dimensional crimp of the polyester-based composite yarn is developed by relaxing heat treatment of the composite fabric using the polyester-based composite yarn at least a part of which is subjected to the middle twist. The method for producing a composite fabric according to (13) above, wherein a coiled hollow structure is formed at the center of the polyester composite yarn in the lengthwise direction.

[0026]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The polyester-based composite yarn used in the present invention has at least one component composed of polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, and is composed of two or more kinds of polyester-based polymers. It is a thing. This polyester-based composite yarn has the ability to shrink by heat treatment and develop a three-dimensional crimp. The composite form is a side-by-side type, an eccentric core-sheath composite type, or a multilayer structure composite in which two or more types of polyester polymers having different viscosities are arranged along the length direction of the fiber regardless of the chemical structure of the polyester used. Examples thereof include those bonded to a mold, and a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath composite type is preferable in order to obtain good crimp characteristics.

When the polymers having different viscosities are made into the above-mentioned composite form, stress concentrates on the high viscosity side during spinning and stretching, so that internal strains are different between the respective components. Therefore, it is considered that the high-viscosity side is largely shrunk due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the difference in heat shrinkage rate in the heat treatment step of the cloth, and strain occurs in the single fiber to form a coil-shaped three-dimensional crimp form. .
The diameter of the three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per unit fiber length are calculated by adding the difference in shrinkage between the high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) and the low shrinkage component (low viscosity component) (elastic recovery difference and thermal shrinkage difference). The larger the contraction difference, the smaller the coil diameter and the larger the number of coils per unit fiber length.

The coil crimp required as a stretch material has a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent elongation characteristics and good appearance), and good coil settling resistance (expansion and contraction). For example, the amount of sagging of the coil is small according to the number of times and the stretch retention is excellent), and the hysteresis loss during expansion recovery of the coil is small (excellent elasticity and good fit). By satisfying these requirements and having the properties as polyester, for example, appropriate elasticity, drape, and high dyeing fastness, a stretch material having an excellent total balance can be obtained.

The inventors of the present invention have conducted extensive studies to satisfy the above characteristics without impairing the characteristics of the polyester. As a result, a polyester mainly containing polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) as at least one component was selected. It was found to be used. PTT fiber has mechanical properties and chemical properties equivalent to those of polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) and polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) fibers, which are typical polyester fibers, and also has elongation recovery properties. Is extremely excellent. This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the crystal structure of PTT has a gauche-gauche structure (the molecular chain bends at 90 degrees), and further, the density of constraint points due to the interaction (stacking, parallel) between benzene rings. It is thought that this is because the molecular chain easily extends and recovers due to the rotation of the methylene group because of low flexibility and high flexibility.

The other component to be combined with PTT is not particularly limited, and polyester having fiber forming performance can be used. The low-shrinkage component (low-viscosity component) of the present invention is preferably a fiber-forming polyester that has good interfacial adhesion with PTT, which is a high-shrinkage component, and stable spinnability, and has mechanical properties, chemical properties and Considering the raw material price, PTT, PET and PBT having a fiber forming ability are more preferable. When PTT is used for both the high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) and the low shrinkage component (low viscosity component), the stress can be concentrated on the higher viscosity component in the spinning process by adjusting the melting point and the glass transition point. It is more preferable because the rate difference can be increased. In addition, since the Young's modulus of the fiber can be lowered by using PTT as both components, there is an advantage that a crimped yarn which is softer and has excellent elasticity can be obtained. In addition,
When a fiber-forming polyester having an alkali weight loss rate higher than that of the above-mentioned two components is compounded into a single fiber cross section as the third component, by performing a weight reduction treatment after forming a fabric,
Fibers with a special cross-sectional shape can be obtained.

The viscosity referred to in the present invention is the intrinsic viscosity (I
V), which is a value measured by dissolving a sample in orthochlorophenol.

The composite ratio of the two components is high shrinkage component: low shrinkage component = 75: 25 to 35:65 (% by weight) from the viewpoints of spinnability and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. Is preferable, and the range of 65:35 to 45:55 is more preferable.

The PTT used in the present invention is a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as a main glycol component. However, it may contain 20 mol%, more preferably 10 mol% or less of a copolymerization component capable of forming another ester bond. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, 5
-Dicarboxylic acids such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, diols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, but are not limited to these. . Further, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, a hindered phenol derivative as an antioxidant, a coloring pigment and the like may be added, if necessary.

Further, in order to overcome the restraint force of the cloth and stably develop the coil-shaped three-dimensional crimp, the higher the shrinkage stress before heat treatment, the better the crimp developability under the restraint of the cloth, The lower the temperature at which the maximum shrinkage stress is exhibited, the better the latent crimp developability in the low temperature relaxation region, and the higher the temperature, the easier the handling in the finishing step. Therefore, in order to enhance the crimp developability in the heat treatment step of the fabric, the temperature at which the maximum shrinkage stress before the heat treatment is 100 ° C. or higher, preferably 11
0 ° C or higher, more preferably 130 ° C or higher, and the maximum value of shrinkage stress is 0.15 cN / dtex or higher, preferably 0.20 cN / dtex or higher, more preferably 0.25.
It is at least cN / dtex.

Further, the polyester-based composite yarn used in the present invention has a crimp due to stress relaxation when the shape of the raw yarn obtained by spinning, drawing and winding from a molten polymer is released from the wound form. The so-called semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn is preferable.

The term "semi-visible" as used herein means a state in which crimps are present at the time when the rolled form is released before heat treatment and three-dimensional crimps are further developed by heat treatment. .

The morphology of the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn is such that the phase of the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp is shifted between the single fibers of the yarn, as if it had undergone false twisting. It is desirable that the yarn has a three-dimensional crimp form and the bulkiness of the composite yarn is high. By increasing the bulkiness, it is possible to give a moderate bulge, which is the object of the present invention, and to obtain a soft and repulsive fabric. Furthermore, the phase shift of the crimps enhances the torque dispersion effect due to the coil crimps, and
Even in the sweet twist, there is almost no Yangyanagi-like graininess, and a high-quality fabric can be obtained. In addition, since it is possible to process the untwisted to sweet twist, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric having no sense of sheer. The above effect is achieved at a bulk height of 30 cc / g or more, preferably 40 cc / g or more, more preferably 50 cc / g or more. By the way, the special public Sho 44
PET with Intrinsic Viscosity Difference as described in JP-2504
The bulkiness of the system composite yarn or the composite yarn in the combination of homo PET and highly shrinkable copolymer PET as described in JP-A-5-295634 is at most about 10 cc / g. The bulkiness of the composite yarn disclosed in the gazette is about 20 cc / g.

Furthermore, when the fabric is used in the form of untwisted to sweet twist,
When used with medium to strong twists because of poor drape, elasticity, resilience, and resilience, and wrinkle resistance, the crimp shape at this time is the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp when unwound from the package. A semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn that exhibits a three-dimensional crimp in a coil shape in which the phases are uniform among the single fibers of the yarn is preferable. In this crimped form, the twist coefficient K of the twisted yarn is 7,000 or more, preferably 10,000 or more, so that the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn is at least partially formed. In the composite fabric used,
It can exhibit qualitative differences from untwisted to sweet twisted composite fabrics. Here, the twist coefficient K refers to that obtained by the following equation.

Twist coefficient K = T × D 0.5 T: Number of twists per 1 m of yarn length D: Fineness (dtex) of yarn In this way, the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn is converged and integrated. When the twisted yarn is made into a fabric in a state in which the phases of the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp are substantially formed, the three-dimensional crimp is developed by the relaxing heat treatment in the dyeing process, Since the coil-shaped hollow structure can be developed in the central portion in the length direction, the elastic backing property at the time of expansion and contraction due to the spring-like spring effect and the resilience due to the large rigidity against bending of the cloth are excellent.

The semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn of the present invention is stretched and stretched after heat treatment as described in JIS L 1090 (Test method for synthetic fiber filament bulky finished yarn) 5.7 item C method (simple method). It is preferable that the elastic modulus is 30% or more and the elastic modulus of expansion and contraction is 85% or more. conventionally,
As described in JP-A-6-322661, etc., latent crimp-expressing polyester fibers are heat-treated in a state close to load-free, and the expansion / contraction elongation rate thereof is regulated. It cannot be said that it does not necessarily reflect the expansion / contraction characteristics in the.

Therefore, in the present invention, paying attention to the importance of the crimp development ability under cloth restraint, heat treatment is carried out by the method shown in FIG. The elastic modulus was defined. In the present invention, the expansion and contraction rate after heat treatment is preferably 30 to 150% in order to sufficiently develop the crimp in the relaxing step of the dyeing step. In order to improve the stretchability, the higher the expansion / contraction elongation rate after heat treatment, the better. Therefore, it is more preferably 40% or more, further preferably 50% or more.
On the other hand, if it is too high, wrinkles may occur, so 130%
It is more preferably at most, and even more preferably at most 110%.

Expansion / contraction expansion rate (%) = [(L1-L0) / L0] × 100% Expansion / contraction elastic modulus (%) = [(L1-L2) / (L1-L0)] ×
100% L0: 90 ° C hot water treatment was carried out for 20 minutes with a 1.8 × 10 -3 cN / dtex load suspended on a fiber cassette, and the length of the cassette after air-drying for one day L1: L0 measurement, then L0 measurement load 90 x 10
-3 cN / dtex load is hung and after 30 seconds, the length L2: L1 is measured, then the L1 measurement load is removed and left for 2 minutes, then 1.8 × 10 -3 cN / dtex load is hung again and 3
The length of the cassette after 0 seconds, that is, 1.8 × 10 −3, which corresponds to the restraining force in the cloth
The same load as that of cN / dtex was hung on the fiber cassette and heat-treated, so that the crimp development capability under fabric constraint can be expressed by the expansion / contraction elongation ratio of the fiber cassette. It is shown that the higher the expansion / contraction elongation rate is, the higher the crimp development ability is, and it is preferable that it is 30% or more, since appropriate stretch characteristics can be given. The stretch elongation after heat treatment is preferably from 30 to 150%, and the higher the stretch elongation after heat treatment is, the more the stretch performance of the fabric is improved. It is 50% or more.

Incidentally, a PET-based composite yarn having an inherent viscosity difference as described in JP-B-44-2504, or a combination of homo PET and a highly shrinkable copolymer PET as described in JP-A-5-295634. In the composite yarn of No. 3, the expansion and contraction rate is about 5% at most.

When stretchability is imparted by expansion and contraction of coil crimps, the durability of the crimps is also an important factor, and the elastic modulus of expansion and contraction can be used as an index. The higher the stretch elastic modulus, the better the wear durability and fit, and the stretch elastic modulus after heat treatment of the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn of the present invention is preferably 85.
% Or more, more preferably 90% or more, and preferably 100% or less.

As described above, the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn preferably used in the present invention has a coil-shaped 3 when the original yarn is released from the binding force of the winding shape before the heat treatment. It is a composite yarn that expresses a so-called semi-exposed crimp having a dimensional crimp. Having the semi-exposed crimps before the heat treatment means that the crimps are present in the semi-exposed state in the composite yarn constituting the raw fabric before the heat treatment in the dyeing step in the composite fabric. It plays a role of weakening the restraint force at the crossing point and greatly promoting the expression of crimp due to shrinkage stress in the heat treatment in the subsequent dyeing step. Then, heat treatment in the dyeing step is performed to develop crimps, which makes it possible to provide a fabric having excellent bulges, stretchability, and the like, which were not possible with conventional latent crimped yarns. In particular, when a cellulosic fiber or a purified cellulosic fiber that absorbs moisture when wet is combined to form a cloth, it is effective because it is possible to suppress the constraint of the fibers in the cloth due to swelling or the like.

The expansion / contraction elongation ratio of the crimp before heat treatment is calculated by the following equation. In the present invention,
The expansion and contraction rate before heat treatment is preferably 10 to 40% in order to obtain sufficient swelling and stretchability of the fabric.

The crimp elongation rate before heat treatment is determined by the following formula from the measurement of the crimp elongation rate measured as shown in FIG.

Expansion and contraction rate before heat treatment (%) = [(L1−L
2) / L2] × 100% L1: 1.8 × 10 −3 cN / dtex 30
Lasse after 2 seconds L2: After measuring L1, remove the L1 measuring load, leave for 2 minutes, hang 90 × 10 −3 cN / dtex load, and 30 seconds after the cassette length Conventional latent crimp type PET / PET In the system conjugate conjugate fiber, the expansion / contraction elongation ratio before the heat treatment is zero in the measurement method. That is, (1a) or (2
As shown in a), although the raw yarn after spinning and drawing has a gentle three-dimensional crimp form, it is an apparent form and not a crimp that is actually manifested. Is to be expressed for the first time by the subsequent relaxing heat treatment as illustrated in (1b) or (2b) of FIG.

The semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn preferably used in the present invention has higher stretchability than a woven fabric in a knitted fabric in which the binding force of fibers in the fabric is low. It is the elongation at break after the boiling water treatment that remarkably expresses the characteristics. The higher the breaking elongation after boiling water treatment, the better the stretchability. Therefore, the breaking elongation after boiling water treatment is preferably 100% or more, more preferably 150% or more.

The breaking elongation after the boiling water treatment was measured by subjecting the sample fiber to boiling water treatment in a state close to no load to develop a coil crimp, and then 1.8 × 10 −3 cN / dtex. It was obtained by fixing the grip length under load and conducting a tensile test.

The cross-sectional shape of the polyester-based composite yarn used in the present invention may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobal cross section, a flat cross section, a hollow cross section, an X-shaped cross section, or any other known irregular cross section, without any limitation. However, the semicircular side-by-side type (a) and (b), the eccentric sheath-type (c) and (d) as shown in FIG. Side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type such as hollow side-by-side (e) aiming at heat retention, flat-section side-by-side (f), (g) and triangular-section side-by-side (h) aiming at dry texture are preferably used.

The polyester-based composite yarn used in the present invention is
Side-by-side composite flow or eccentric core is obtained by arranging polyester A mainly composed of PTT on one or more of two or more polyester polymers and polyester B having fiber-forming ability on the other, and merging at the upper part of the spinneret discharge hole. After the sheath composite flow is formed, it is discharged from a discharge hole for obtaining a desired cross-sectional shape. The discharged yarn may be manufactured by a two-step method in which it is cooled, solidified, and once wound and then stretched, or it is manufactured by a direct spin-drawing method in which it is drawn after spinning. Good.

After spinning and drawing, it is wound into a package,
After that, when the yarn is unwound from the package in the woven or knitting process, the size of the coil of the three-dimensional crimp, the crimp elongation rate, etc.
It is considered that it depends on the polymer and the spinning conditions. On the other hand, the appearance of the three-dimensional crimp, that is, the phase of the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp deviates between the single fibers of the yarn, or the peak and valley of the three-dimensional crimps between the single fibers of the yarn It is considered that the formation of the multifilament that is substantially evenly and convergently integrated depends on the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber, the viscosity of the polymer used for the side-by-side type and the eccentric core-sheath type, and the composite ratio and shape thereof. In addition, it is preferable to obtain the form in which the phase of the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp is shifted between the monofilaments of the yarn by utilizing the high elastic recovery stress of PTT. However, it is possible to develop crimps. In order to do so, after stretching between the hot rolls, 3 to
It is preferable to reduce the yarn tension by performing a relaxation treatment of 15%. When the crimps are developed, the yarns are opened, and the crimp phase is shifted to obtain a bulky form.

Next, the embodiment of the composite fabric of the present invention will be described.

The polyester-based composite yarn and the natural fiber, the regenerated fiber made of a cellulose-based polymer, the semi-synthetic fiber or the purified cellulose fiber can be used in a composite fabric in the form of interwoven, interwoven or intertwisted yarn, mixed yarn and the like. . For example, in a woven fabric, the yarn may be used as either a warp yarn or a weft yarn, and in the case of a yarn compounded by intertwisting or mixed fiber, it may be used for both warp and weft. A polyester composite yarn may be used as a weft yarn without twisting or twisting it with a warp yarn such as a natural fiber. Further, a natural fiber or the like and a polyester-based composite yarn can be applied to a composite fabric by fine spinning twisting, twisting yarn twisting (plying twist), and mixed fiber processing.

The polyester-based composite yarn used in the present invention is
Even if the woven fabric is untwisted or sweet twisted, there are few wrinkles, it has excellent stretchability, and the woven surface can be finished flat. In this case, when the original yarn is unwound from the package, it is preferable that the semi-exposed three-dimensional crimped form has the peaks and troughs of the crimps shifted in phase between the single fibers. The phase shift of the crimps occurring in the yarn enhances the torque dispersion effect due to the coil-shaped three-dimensional crimp, and there is almost no Yangyanagi-like wrinkling even in the untwisted to the sweet twist, and a high-quality fabric can be obtained. it can. In addition, it can be used with medium to strong twist.

The untwisted, middle-twisted, and strong-twisted wires as used herein mean
It is a general concept of the number of twists in the industry, but it is not twisted.
Area with almost no twist (including untwisted twist)
So, there is a sweet twist in the area where the number of twists is smaller than that of the middle twist. Typically
Is used by twisting the woven or knitted fabric in order to improve processability.
When used, it is called sweet twist. The number of twists T is the twist coefficient K = T × D
0.5When the twist coefficient K is constant,
It is a value that changes depending on the type of fiber etc.
However, sweet twist is generally about 30 to 500 T / m.
Middle twist refers to a twist number region between sweet twist and strong twist. Medium twist is strong
Twisted woven and knitted fabrics are used for wrinkles, wrinkles and soccer.
Twist that gives a dry touch due to such uneven effect and twist
Twist number less than the number, generally twist coefficient K is 500 ~
The area is about 20,000. Naturally, fineness and thread cross section
It depends on the shape and polymer. And what is strong twist
It is a region higher than the middle twist.

On the other hand, after twisting the multifilament yarn in which the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp are converged and integrated in a form in which the single fibers are substantially aligned, the three-dimensional crimp is developed by heat treatment. It becomes possible to develop a coiled hollow structure at the center of the yarn in the length direction. By adopting this form, it is possible to give the fabric excellent properties such as bulge, stretchability, stretch elasticity and elasticity and resilience.

When this yarn is used in a medium twist to a strong twist, the phases of the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp are substantially in a state where the multifilaments are converged and integrated when unwound from the package. Since they are aligned, a spring-like spring effect is obtained, and the elastic backing property at the time of expansion and contraction and the great rigidity of the fabric against bending are excellent in resilience.

The twisting method may be any of the usual equipment such as a filament or spun yarn compounding and twisting machine (down twister), an up twister method, a filament method or a double twister method of a span, and a covering method can also be carried out. In this twisted yarn, by using a polyurethane-based or polyether-ester-based elastic fiber in the covering yarn in the covering method, the characteristics of higher expansion / contraction elongation rate and recovery rate than those of ordinary synthetic fiber can be obtained. In addition, in combination with spun yarn, the PT
Due to the three-component composite of T and elastic fiber, it is possible to obtain a fabric having a better expansion / contraction recovery rate (kickback property) than CSY (composite yarn with elastic yarn in the spinning step of spinning). PTT used in combination with polyurethane elastic fiber
The conjugate yarn is more preferable because the crimped yarn made of the PPT homopolymer can lower the dyeing temperature.

In the knitted fabric, the knitted fabric can be used for horizontal knitting, circular knitting, and vertical knitting without any limitation. When the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn is used, it is possible to set a wider range of densities in greige than in the conventional latently crimped polyester composite fiber. That is, since the raw yarn has semi-exposed crimps, the space between the constituting yarns is a structural void structure due to the crimps developed when unwound from the package. By the relaxation treatment, latent crimps can be easily developed, and crimps can be easily developed during shrinkage in the width direction and the length direction. Therefore, the structure can be three-dimensionally shrunk, and the density is sufficiently high. Also, in the case of densely packed vegetative density, inter-fiber voids due to semi-exposed crimps between the constituent yarns make it possible to increase the latent crimp development power due to relaxation in the heat treatment of the dyeing process. Compared with the case of using the conventional latently crimped polyester conjugate fiber, the relaxation temperature of the dyeing process can be expressed in a low temperature region, the density after dyeing can be increased, and the stretchability can be increased. There are advantages.

The most significant advantage of the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn is that it can develop a three-dimensional latent crimp by a relaxation treatment in a temperature range of normal temperature and normal pressure. This is particularly useful when it is combined with fibers such as natural fibers, cellulosic fibers, purified cellulosic fibers or nylons that do not require a high pressure dyeing step to form a fabric.

In the composite fabric of the present invention, the yarns used in addition to the polyester-based composite yarns are natural fibers such as cotton or hemp, regenerated fibers made of cellulosic polymers such as rayon or copper ammonia rayon, and acetate (diacetate). Alternatively, at least one fiber selected from semi-synthetic fibers such as triacetate and purified cellulose fibers such as Lyocell and “TENCEL” (registered trademark) is used. Further, from the viewpoint of global environment conservation, it is possible to use viscose filaments or spun yarns made from natural or cultivated bamboo as the cellulosic fiber,
In addition to the stretchability of the polyester-based composite yarn, it has the effects of absorbing and releasing moisture, antibacterial properties, and generating negative ions.

An example of a composite fabric using natural fibers such as cotton and hemp and a polyester composite yarn will be described below.

In the case of a composite fabric using a natural fiber such as cotton or hemp and a polyester-based composite yarn, a cotton spun yarn or a hemp-spun yarn and a polyester-based composite yarn are mixed-woven, interwoven, or intertwisted yarn, a mixed fiber yarn, or the like. Can be used in. For example, in a woven fabric, a natural fiber may be used as either a warp yarn or a weft yarn, and may be used as both a warp yarn and a weft yarn as a yarn combined by intertwisting or mixed fiber. Further, cotton or hemp fiber may be used as the warp yarn, and the polyester-based composite yarn may be used as the weft yarn without twisting or twisting. In addition, cotton, hemp fiber and polyester-based composite yarn are finely spun twisted, twisted yarn mixed twist (ply twist),
It can be mixed and processed and applied to a composite fabric. In addition,
In the case of intertwisting (ply twisting), a composite twisted yarn developed as a normal drawing machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho Co., Ltd. in order to utilize crimp expression without problems in the weaving process if it is a semi-visible bulky crimp that is preferably used. Using a ring type twisting machine such as the improved DTF type, the semi-exposed crimp of the polyester-based composite fiber to be composited is aligned with the cotton fiber and the like without stretching and is compounded. It is preferable.

In the present invention, as a characteristic of the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn which is preferably used, the stretch elongation before heat treatment is 10 to 40% in order to obtain sufficient swelling and stretchability of the fabric. Preferably there is. The expansion and contraction rate after the heat treatment is 30 to 15 in order to sufficiently develop the crimp in the relaxing step of the dyeing step.
It is preferably 0%. To improve stretchability, the higher the expansion / contraction elongation after heat treatment, the better, so 40%
It is more preferable to be above, and it is still more preferable to be 50% or above. On the other hand, if it is too high, wrinkles may occur, so it is more preferably 130% or less, and
It is more preferably 0% or less. Those satisfying these fiber characteristics can be widely applied to the composite fabric used in the untwisted region.

On the other hand, the number of twists in the case of subjecting the polyester-based composite yarn to additional twisting and providing it to the composite fabric, when the polyester-based composite yarn alone is twisted, the upper limit of the twist coefficient K is preferably 20,000, and cotton. Or, in the case of a composite twisted yarn with hemp fibers, a slightly lower number of 10,000 to 15,0
It is preferable to set 00 to the upper limit range. This is because the cotton or hemp fiber tends to become hard when wet. Further, in the case of the composite twisted yarn of the cotton or hemp fiber, when the expansion / contraction elongation ratio after the heat treatment is in the range of 10 to 60%, excellent swelling and stretchability of the composite fabric are obtained, which is preferable.

The polyester-based composite yarn used for interlaced weaving and intertwisting is a type in which the phases of the three-dimensional crimps of the peaks and troughs are deviated between the single fibers of the yarn, and the form takes a form as if false twisting was performed, or 3 Any type of multifilament in which the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp are substantially aligned and converged and integrated between the single fibers can be used. Since the spun yarn of cotton or hemp fiber swells in a wet state, it is considered that wrinkles are unlikely to occur when the polyester-based composite yarn develops crimp due to shrinkage in the dyeing process. For the twisted yarn after the composite twisted yarn, it is preferable to carry out a twist setting in order to improve the passability in the next step. Although it varies depending on the number of twists, the crimp expression of the polyester type composite yarn is sufficiently relaxed by the heat treatment and the dyeing process. It is preferable to set the anti-twist at 70 ° C. or lower in order to bring out the best performance.

Further, when a type in which a three-dimensional crimp has a multifilament form in which peak and valley phases are substantially aligned and integrated between single fibers, in a weaving or twisting with cotton or hemp Even in the middle-to-strong twist region, three-dimensional crimps are developed in the relaxing stage of dyeing, and a coil-shaped hollow structure can be developed in the central part in the length direction of the yarn. , Has the effect of improving the stretch back property when stretching.

Next, in the weaving / knitting, these raw yarns and intertwisted yarns may be freely arranged in terms of arrangement, texture and the like depending on the design purpose of the woven fabric. In order to express the characteristics of the raw yarn used in this composite fabric, it is better to increase the ratio of cotton and hemp fibers appearing on the surface of the fabric, which gives a better texture and a better appearance.
The ratio is preferably 20 to 80% by weight of cotton and hemp fiber, and 20 to 80% by weight of polyester-based composite yarn. More preferably, it is 35 to 65%. The knitted fabric can be formed by circular knitting, warp knitting, weft insertion, and the mixing ratio may be similar to that of woven fabric.

Next, the dyeing process of the composite fabric using cotton fibers and hemp fibers will be described.

In dyeing a composite fabric using a polyester-based composite yarn and cotton or hemp fiber, the occurrence of wrinkles and the generation of wrinkles are suppressed, and the latent crimping ability of the polyester-based composite yarn is sufficiently brought out. pay attention to. For this reason, it is preferable that the equipment used in the relaxing step has a specification in which the treatment liquid layer can be subjected to multi-step temperature conditions by using a softer or open soaper type machine that can be performed in a spread state. The temperature is preferably such that the relaxation temperature starts from 60 ° C. or lower, and the temperature up to the normal temperature of 98 ° C. is sufficient, but if necessary, it can be thereafter relaxed by a liquid flow method. The subsequent dry heat set temperature is set to be lower than that of the conventional polyester. Since it is possible to develop latent crimps in boiling water under normal pressure, it is possible to obtain a stretch fabric by continuous dyeing that incorporates mercerizing in the dyeing process of a composite fabric of cellulosic fibers such as cotton and polyester fibers. It became possible.

A latent crimp type conjugate yarn such as a conventional PET / PET bimetal is difficult to develop crimps by a relaxing treatment with boiling water, and it was possible only after giving a rubbing effect in a high pressure temperature range. Therefore, the composite fabric using the cellulosic fiber and the conventional PET / PET latent crimp type conjugate yarn has a cerquette processing condition applied to the cellulosic fiber in continuous refining at a high temperature of 130 ° C. or more after padding with NaOH. Since the tension heat treatment is carried out in the above step, even if the relaxation treatment is carried out after that step, there is a limit in developing latent crimps, and it was impossible to obtain sufficient stretchability. On the other hand, it has been found that the composite fabric using the polyester-based composite yarn and the cotton fiber of the present invention is superior in that it can be dyed to obtain stretchability by the continuous dyeing method. Coloring conditions and finishing conditions by steaming after the mercerizing process may be normal process conditions.

In addition, in the dyeing process of the woven or knitted fabric using a part of cotton or hemp, it is important to incorporate a hair-burning process from the viewpoint of texture, appearance quality, and pilling measures. It is customary to decide before or after the dyeing process or according to the characteristics of the product to be processed. The conventional PET / PET-based latent crimp-type conjugate yarn composite fabric needs to be calcined after the crimps have been sufficiently developed, and the crimp development step is performed by a high temperature / high pressure liquid flow batch method. Therefore, it could not be incorporated into the spreading continuous process. On the other hand, the composite fabric using the polyester-based composite yarn of the present invention can be subjected to a hair-burning process in a greige machine, but it can be used in a spread-like relaxing step after the greige is opened.
After the dimensional crimp is developed, it is possible to carry out drying and singing, or to carry out dying after dyeing and to carry out singing in a continuous process.

In the composite fabric of the present invention, it is possible to use conventional natural fibers such as cotton and hemp for the warp yarns or the weft yarns, such as regenerated cellulose fibers, semi-synthetic fibers, purified cellulose fibers, polyester fibers and the like. Since it can be woven with short fiber spun yarn, it can be suitably used for shirts, blouses, pants, suits, blouson, etc. because of its wide range of thin to thick fields.

Next, in the case of a composite fabric with wool or silk which is an animal natural fiber, it can be carried out by means of interweaving, interlacing, intertwisting or the like as in the case of cotton or hemp which is the natural fiber of plant. Considering dyeing process conditions, it is preferable to use ordinary process conditions used for so-called wool and silk fabrics, since the effects on temperature, pH, and external force (rubber) are large. Be careful when exceeding these conditions. It is preferable to set and execute the conditions. That is, in the processing of greige, the moist heat temperature is usually carried out in the normal pressure / normal temperature region for both pretreatment and dyeing. Scouring and relaxing are carried out in the pre-dyeing step, but since animal fiber is felted or fibrillated due to the effect of rice fir on the high temperature side, it is carried out in the temperature range from low temperature to 95 ° C. The dyeing temperature is at most 1
It is preferably carried out at 10 ° C or lower.

Next, an example of a composite fabric using regenerated cellulose fibers will be described.

The regenerated cellulosic fiber is most commonly viscose rayon, and cuprammonium rayon (cupra), and lyocell, "TENCEL" (registered trademark) can be used as a purified cellulosic fiber. In addition, a cellulosic polymer made of natural or cultivated bamboo can be used.

These spun yarns are cellulose rayon,
Copper ammonia rayon, purified cellulose 100 each
% Or a mixed yarn of them and natural fibers or regenerated cellulose fibers is used. Also, as natural fibers, cotton,
Linen, bamboo, kenaf, and peach are suitable, and animal fiber wool and silk spinning can also be applied. In the case of blended spinning, it is possible to use a blended synthetic fiber. Also, regenerated cellulose-based filament yarn can be applied. Constituent requirements such as mixing ratio by mixing, knitting, and twisting with polyester-based composite yarns using these spun yarns (spun yarns), woven and knit structure, twisting conditions, etc. are the above-mentioned cotton and hemp fiber composite fabrics. It can be implemented by a design according to.

Further, in the case of these regenerated cellulose type filament yarns, there is no fluff, there is almost no original twist, and there are differences between so-called filament yarns and spun yarns such as fabric manufacturing process equipment. Select the condition that suits you. Also, the dyeing process can be performed according to the process of the composite fabric using cotton or hemp. The difference from the dyeing process of cotton and linen is that regenerated cellulosic fibers, especially copper ammonia rayon and purified cellulosic fibers, have large swelling properties, and the microfibrils of the fibers are thinned and fibrillation easily occurs on the fiber surface. It is necessary to pay attention to the characteristics of.

In the present invention, as a characteristic of the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn which is preferably used, the stretch elongation before heat treatment is 10 to 40% in order to obtain sufficient swelling and stretchability of the fabric. Preferably there is. The expansion and contraction rate after the heat treatment is 30 to 15 in order to sufficiently develop the crimp in the relaxing step of the dyeing step.
It is preferably 0%. To improve stretchability, the higher the expansion / contraction elongation after heat treatment, the better, so 40%
More preferably, it is more preferably 50% or more. On the other hand, if it is too high, wrinkles may occur, so 130% or less is more preferable and 1
It is more preferably 10% or less. Those satisfying these fiber characteristics can be widely applied to the composite fabric used in the untwisted region.

On the other hand, the number of twists in the case where the polyester-based composite yarn is subjected to post-twisting to be used for the composite fabric, the upper limit of the twist coefficient K is preferably 20,000 when the polyester-based composite yarn is twisted alone, and recycled. In the case of a composite twisted yarn with a cellulosic fiber, slightly lower than that of 10,000 to 1
It is preferable to set 5,000 as the upper limit range. This is because the regenerated cellulosic fibers tend to become hard when wet. Further, in the case of the composite twisted yarn of the regenerated cellulosic fiber, when the expansion / contraction elongation ratio after the heat treatment is in the range of 10 to 60%, the composite fabric is in a region where the composite fabric is bulged and the stretchability is satisfactory.

Next, an example of a composite fabric using regenerated cellulose type semi-synthetic fibers will be described.

As the regenerated cellulose type semi-synthetic fiber,
Examples include acetate (diacetate) and triacetate.

Since the acetate fiber has a low fiber strength and is easily fluffed, it requires extremely careful handling when producing a fabric and the fiber is straight.
It has low shrinkage, and when it is made into a fabric structure, it does not satisfy the required characteristics such as swelling feeling and stretchability. Therefore, it is usually used in combination with other fibers. Also,
Usually, acetate fiber is dyeable with disperse dye, but the disperse dye currently developed due to the fiber structure of acetate is 1
Dyeing is required at 20 ° C. or less, and when applied to a dyeing temperature range of 130 ° C. like ordinary polyester fibers, the same color property and sufficient color developability cannot be obtained. is there. As described above, the characteristics of the acetate fiber are complemented by the disadvantages, and the characteristic is the combination with the polyester-based composite yarn containing PTT as a constituent component for the composite fabric in order to take advantage of the advantages.

In the present invention, as a characteristic of the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn which is preferably used, the stretch elongation before heat treatment is 10 to 40% in order to obtain sufficient swelling and stretchability of the fabric. Preferably there is. The expansion and contraction rate after the heat treatment is 30 to 15 in order to sufficiently develop the crimp in the relaxing step of the dyeing step.
It is preferably 0%. To improve stretchability, the higher the expansion / contraction elongation after heat treatment, the better, so 40%
More preferably, it is more preferably 50% or more. On the other hand, if it is too high, wrinkles may occur, so 130% or less is more preferable and 1
It is more preferably 10% or less. Those satisfying these fiber characteristics can be widely applied to the composite fabric used in the untwisted region.

On the other hand, the number of twists in the case where the polyester-based composite yarn is subjected to post-twisting to be used for the composite fabric, the upper limit range of the twist coefficient is 2 when the polyester-based composite yarn is twisted alone.
10,000 is preferable, and in the case of the composite twisted yarn with acetate fiber, it is slightly lower than that of 15,000 to 18,000.
It is preferable that 0 is the upper limit range. This is because the acetate fibers easily become fluff. Further, in the case of this composite twisted yarn of acetate fiber, the expansion and contraction elongation rate after the heat treatment is 10
When it is in the range of up to 60%, it is in the region where the composite fabric swells and the stretchability is satisfactory.

When a polyester-based composite yarn is formed into a composite fabric by a method of arraying, weaving, or knitting, the twist coefficient in the case of no twist to middle twist is K = 20,000 as the upper limit. The number of twists of the composite twisted yarn when the polyester-based conjugate fiber and the acetate fiber are aligned and twisted, the twist coefficient K = 15,000.
0 is most preferable. In the case of twisted yarn, it is necessary to carry out a twist prevention set from the viewpoint of process passability, and the latent crimp expression of the semi-exposed crimped polyester composite yarn is relaxed by the heat treatment and dyeing process, although it differs depending on the number of twists. It is preferably 70 ° C. or lower in order to exert the effect.

In the weaving / knitting, these raw yarns and composite twisted yarns may be arranged in any desired arrangement and structure, depending on the design purpose of the woven fabric. In order to express the characteristics of the raw yarn used in this composite fabric, it is better for the appearance and the appearance to be improved by increasing the ratio of the acetate fibers on the surface of the fabric. The ratio is 50% by weight of the acetate fibers. ~ 80%,
50 to 20% of semi-exposed crimped polyester-based composite fibers are preferable. The knitted fabric can be formed by circular knitting, warp knitting, weft insertion, and the mixing ratio may be similar to that of woven fabric.

In the dyeing process, care should be taken to suppress the appearance of wrinkles and the generation of wrinkles in the composite fabric and to bring out the full potential crimping ability of the polyester composite yarn. For this reason, it is preferable that the equipment used in the relaxing step has a specification in which the treatment liquid layer can be subjected to multi-step temperature conditions by using a softer or open soaper type machine that can be performed in a spread state. The temperature is preferably such that the relaxation temperature starts from 60 ° C. or lower, and the temperature up to the normal temperature of 98 ° C. is sufficient, but if necessary, it can be thereafter relaxed by a liquid flow method. The subsequent dry heat set temperature is set to be lower than that of the conventional polyester. The dyeing temperature is
It is preferably 120 ° C. or lower, though it depends on the type of acetate. If the temperature range of polyester is adjusted, the same color and fastness may not be obtained. Dry heat set temperature is 180 ℃ for the pre-dyeing preset and 1 for the finishing set after the dyeing.
Keep at about 60 ° C. In addition, generally, in the dyeing process of a fabric using polyester fiber, an alkali weight reduction step is required in order to reduce the restraining force at the intersection point of the fabric and impart drape property and repulsion to the fabric. In the composite fabric of the invention, due to the effect of the polyester-based composite yarn, the constraining force at the crossing point is low, so alkali weight loss is not always necessary, but depending on the density of the fabric, it may be carried out. Absent. However, it is necessary to select conditions because the characteristics of the acetate fiber are changed by saponification of the hydroxyl group with a strong alkali.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. The following methods were used as the measuring methods in the examples.

A. Intrinsic viscosity orthochlorophenol (abbreviated as OCP below) 10
0.8 g of the sample polymer was dissolved in ml, and the relative viscosity ηr was calculated by the following equation using an Ostwald viscometer at 25 ° C., and IV was calculated.

Ηr = η / η 0 = (t × d) / (t 0 × d
0 ) IV = 0.0242 ηr + 0.2634 where η: viscosity of polymer solution η 0 : viscosity of OCP t: drop time of solution (sec) d: density of solution (g / cm 3 ) t 0 : drop of OCP Time (sec) d 0 : OCP density (g / cm 3 ) B. Shrinkage stress A thermal stress measuring instrument manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd.
The measurement was performed at a temperature rising rate of 150 ° C./min. Sample is 10 cm
Make a loop and double it (half) into a loop (as a 10 cm x 2 loop), and the initial tension is the fineness (d
tex) × 0.9 × (1/30) gf.

C. Bulk altitude FIG. 4 is a perspective view of a device for measuring the bulk altitude M, and FIG. 5 is a sketch for explaining the measuring method by this device. Two notches 6 are provided on the upper surface of the sample table 1, and the distance between the outer edge portions thereof is 6 mm.
cm PET film 2 is laid over, and the metal fitting 3 with the pointer and the load 4 are connected under the PET film 2. The pointer of the metal fitting 3 is set so as to indicate the zero position of the scale 5 when the sample is not attached. The sample has a display fineness of 50,0 using a measuring machine with a circumference of 1 m.
The yarn length is 00 dtex and the yarn length is 50 cm (for example, 50 dtex yarn is 50,000 / 50/2 = 50).
Since it is 0, a 500 m yarn is wound 500 times with a measuring machine to make a cassette with a display fineness of 50,000 dtex). Next, the obtained cassette 7 is inserted between the PET film 2 and the sample table 1 as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, and the contracted sample is pulled to fix the cassette 7 so that the cassette length becomes 25 cm. The load 4 is set to 50 g in total with the metal fitting 3 with a pointer, and L (cm) indicated by the pointer is read. The measurement is performed 3 times, and the bulk altitude M is calculated from the average L value by the following formula.

M (cc / g) = volume in film V / weight of yarn in film W V (cc) = L 2 /π×2.5 W (g) = 50000 × (0.5 / 0.25) ) × (0.
025/10000) = 0.25D. Expansion / contraction elongation / expansion / contraction elastic modulus According to JIS L1090 (test method for synthetic fiber filament bulky processed yarn), 5.7 item C method (simple method), heat treatment is performed by the method shown in FIG. The elastic elongation and elastic modulus were defined.

Expansion / contraction expansion rate (%) = [(L1-L0) / L0] × 100% Expansion / contraction elastic modulus (%) = [(L1-L2) / (L1-L0)] ×
100% L0: 90 ° C hot water treatment was carried out for 20 minutes with a 1.8 × 10 -3 cN / dtex load suspended on a fiber cassette, and the cassette length after air-drying for one day L1: L0 measurement, L0 measurement load 90 x 10
-3 cN / dtex load is hung and after 30 seconds, the length L2: L1 is measured, then the L1 measurement load is removed and left for 2 minutes, then 1.8 × 10 -3 cN / dtex load is hung again and 3
Length of the cassette after 0 seconds E. Expansion and contraction rate before heat treatment JIS L1090 (Synthetic fiber filament bulk textured yarn test method), 5.7 C method (simple method) is performed, and the following method is used in the measurement method shown in FIG. The expansion and contraction rate was defined by.

Expansion and contraction rate before heat treatment (%) = [(L2-L
1) / L1] × 100 L1: Measured load 1.8 × 10 −3 cN / dtex Loaded hook length after 30 seconds L2: After L1 measurement, L1 measured load is removed 90 × 10 −3
Hook length E.I. after 30 seconds with hanging load of cN / dtex. Expansion and contraction rate after heat treatment F. Breaking elongation after boiling water treatment The raw yarn was treated with hot water at 90 ° C for 20 minutes in a state close to no load to develop coil crimps, manufactured by Orientec Co., Ltd.
1.8 × 1 using TENSILON UCT-100
A constant-speed elongation test was carried out by fixing the grip length under a load of 0 -3 cN / dtex. Gripping interval is 50 mm, pulling speed is 20
It was determined from the elongation at the point at which it was pulled at 0 mm / min and showed the maximum strength.

[0098]

Examples Example 1 Warp yarn 100% cotton comber spun yarn 7.4 tex / 2
(Cotton count 80/2) was sized and set on an air jet loom. A woven fabric was made as a trial using polyester-based composite yarn as the weft yarn. The polyester-based composite yarn was manufactured as follows.

An intrinsic viscosity (IV) containing 0.35% by weight of titanium oxide as a matting agent was 1.38 (melt viscosity 12
80 poise) homo PTT and titanium oxide 0.3
Homo PET containing 5% by weight and having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 (melt viscosity 590 poise) was separately melted, and a composite ratio (% by weight) was 50:50 from a composite spinneret with 24 holes at a spinning temperature of 280 ° C. Discharge at a spinning speed of 1400
m / min, 179 dtex, 24 filament side-by-side type composite structure undrawn yarn (fiber cross section is shown in FIG.
g) was obtained. The maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn was 4.6 times. Further, after aging the undrawn yarn at an ambient temperature of 25 ° C. for 2 days, a first hot roll temperature of 80 is used by using a drawing machine.
℃, mirror hot finish (surface roughness 0.8S) second hot roll temperature 35 ℃, stretched between the first hot roll and the second hot roll at a draw ratio of 3.2 times (70% of the maximum draw ratio), The third hot roll temperature was 170 ° C., the relaxation rate between the second hot roll and the third hot roll was 9%, and the film was stretched 1.02 times between the third hot roll and the draw roll.
A drawn yarn of about 56 dtex and 24 filaments was obtained. The yarn tension in the relaxation treatment zone is 0.01 cN /
It was dtex. The spinnability and the drawability were good and no yarn breakage occurred. The shrinkage stress of the obtained yarn is 0.24 cN / dtex, the peak temperature of shrinkage stress is 142 ° C,
The bulk altitude was 42 cc / g. The original yarn has an expansion / contraction rate of 30.8% before heat treatment, and when unwound from the package, the individual filaments become semi-exposed due to stress relaxation, and the phases of the peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional coiled crimp are displaced. (Fig. 6 (1a)), and exhibited excellent bulkiness and stretchability. In addition, the expansion / contraction expansion ratio after heat treatment was 63.9%, and the expansion / contraction elastic modulus was 92% (example in FIG. 6 (1b)).

[0100] The trial production yarn was driven into a flat structure without twisting to make a raw machine having a width of 173 cm (warp density: 101 threads / 2.5 cm, weft density: 96 threads / 2.5 cm), and 6 with a softer.
Relaxed in 3 tanks at 0 ℃ -95 ℃, width 125c
m, horizontal density 97 lines / 2.5 cm. Subsequently, through a mercerizing process, the width was 120 cm and the horizontal density was 98 pieces / 2.5 cm. Set with a pin tenter with a width of 180 ° C., dye with a disperse dye at a dyeing temperature of 120 ° C., finish set at 160 ° C., and obtain a composite fabric with a width of 121 cm and a horizontal density of 99 pieces / 2.5 cm. The surface of the fabric is flat, no wrinkles are generated, it has an excellent gloss and color development due to the mercerizing effect, and the width is wide due to the expression of the crimp in the weft direction. It was something that had. A conventional polyester (PET type) that uses a 30% spandex covering thread in the width direction by a simple method.
It had a soft stretch and was soft and bulgy. As a result of examining the quality of the woven fabric, the washing dimensional change rate by the JIS L0217 method 103 washing was minus 1.2% in the vertical direction, minus 0.5% in the lateral direction, and the elongation rate by the method L1096B was 33%.
It was 3% and the elongation recovery rate was 85.7% after 1 hour.

Example 2 The warp yarn of Example 1 was used, and the PTT / PET bimetal conjugate yarn 56d used in Example 1 as the weft yarn.
tex, 2 filaments of 24 filaments aligned and 1,000T
/ M (twisting coefficient 10,580) S direction additional twisting,
Twist stop by vacuum setting for 30 minutes at 0 ° C wet heat,
A plain weave was prototyped. The greige width was 189 cm, and the density (91 warp threads / 2.5 cm, weft 71 threads / 2.5 cm). The greige was relaxed and scoured with a 95 ° C softener, mercerized, and 120 ° C jet dyeing for finishing. Finishing width 133 cm, warp thread density 128 threads /
The density was 2.5 cm and the weft density was 73 threads / 2.5 cm.
The finished woven fabric was a soft stretch woven fabric having a drapeable and compact surface feeling because it was twisted as twin yarns as compared with Example 1. The quality is JIS L0217, the washing dimension change rate by the 103 method washing is minus 1.0%, the horizontal is 0.0%, and the stretchability is 25.0% according to the L1096B method. The recovery rate was 87.5%, which was not a problem.

Example 3 The 56 dtex, 24-filament polyester-based composite yarn of Example 1 was supplied from the front roller in the spinning step of 100% cotton spinning, and CSY7.4 tex (cotton count 40 / The trial spinning of 1) was performed, and the twist setting was performed by a wet heat vacuum setting method at 65 ° C. for 30 minutes. The crimp extension ratio of the composite spun twisted yarn was 15% by heat treatment. This composite twisted composite yarn was used for the weft yarn of Example 1 to fabricate a woven fabric with a vertical double design. The amount of raw machinery is
Width 190 cm, density (vertical 90 / 2.5 cm, width 6)
7 lines / 2.5 cm). This greige was put into a usual dyeing process. Relaxing is spread and 50 ℃ to 98 ℃
After scouring in the temperature rising tank, dry heat was set at 170 ° C, and the width was 89 cm after relaxation and width was 130 c.
In m, the horizontal density was 68 lines / 2.5 cm. Subsequently, the temperature was raised with a jet dyeing machine to perform disperse dyeing at 120 ° C., reduction washing was performed, and dry heat finishing set was performed at 160 ° C., and the width was 130 cm and the horizontal density was 67 lines / 2.5 cm. The finished composite fabric had a high-grade appearance with little wrinkles on the surface, and had a soft stretch of about 15% in the vertical and horizontal directions, which was excellent in a soft swelling sensation. In addition, there was no difference in dyeing between the used yarns, and there was no flicker due to almost the same color, and there was no problem in dyeing fastness at an acceptable level.

Example 4 In the production conditions of the polyester-based composite yarn of Example 1,
A prototype was prepared by changing the cross-sectional shape of the multifilament yarn to the spinneret shape shown in FIG. 3a. The obtained yarn has an expansion / contraction rate of 28.5% before heat treatment, and when unwound from the package, the individual filaments are integrated due to stress relaxation and the peaks and troughs of the coiled crimp are relatively out of phase. The expression was semi-represented in a converged state without any (FIG. 6 (2a)), and the expansion / contraction characteristics of the three-dimensional crimp were shown. The expansion and contraction rate after heat treatment is 70.9
%, And the elastic modulus of elasticity was 91% (FIG. 6 (2b)). Except for the crimp characteristics, it was close to that of Example 1. A woven fabric was prepared from the raw yarn under the conditions of Example 2. Finishing width is 131c
The crimp development power is slightly large and the weft density is 73 threads /
It was not much different from 2.5 cm. As a result of scanning the cross section of this weft yarn with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., the polyester-based composite yarn was twisted and formed in the longitudinal direction of the multifilament aggregate having a shape thought to be caused by the appearance of coil crimps. It was a woven fabric having a hollow structure and excellent in elasticity and stretch back property as compared with the woven fabric of Example 2 and having a firm round feel.

Comparative Example 1 Comparison with Example 1 using a conventional crimp / PET IV difference (0.5 / 0.75) composite spinning latent crimp-expressing bimetal conjugate yarn 56dtex, 12 filament yarn. To produce a composite fabric. The latent crimp-expressing conjugate yarn used had a crimp elongation of 4 by heat treatment.
It was 5.1%. This conjugate multifilament yarn was made under the same conditions as in Example 1 to make a composite fabric greige. Compared with Example 1, the quality of the greige had a wide width of 185 cm without any width because there was no crimp expression. The greige machine was subjected to spreading relaxation under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the relaxing width was 180 cm and the horizontal density was 96. After that, mercerizing is performed and jet dyeing is performed at 120 ° C, width 1
It did not shrink at 75 cm and a horizontal density of 95 pieces / 2.5 cm. A composite cloth was used under the conditions of width setting.
The finished product had some wrinkles and was inferior to Example 1 in terms of quality and stretchability due to the difference in dyeability.

Example 5 Warp yarn was spun with “Tencel” (registered trademark) raw cotton A100 type 1.4 dtex, 38 mm, manufactured by Accordis, UK, 38 mm in a cotton spinning method at 19.7 tex count (cotton count 30/1). After this, warping was performed, slasher sizing was performed, and the air jet loom was set. A woven fabric was experimentally produced by using semi-exposed crimped polyester-based composite yarn (referred to as PTT conjugate yarn) 56dtex24 filament as the weft yarn. The PTT conjugate yarn is a homo PTT having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.38 (melt viscosity 1280 poise) containing 0.35% by weight of titanium oxide as a matting agent.
And an intrinsic viscosity (I
V) is 0.60 (melt viscosity 950 poise) homo P
Melt each ET separately and spin at a spinning temperature of 280 ° C for 24 hours.
A composite ratio (wt%) of 50:50 was discharged from the composite spinneret of the holes, and the yarn was collected at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min and 179 dte.
An x, 24 filament side-by-side type composite structure undrawn yarn (fiber cross-section shown in FIG. 3g) was obtained. The maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn was 4.6 times. Further, after aging the undrawn yarn at an ambient temperature of 25 ° C. for 2 days, the temperature of the first hot roll is 70 ° C., the temperature of the second hot roll of mirror finish (surface roughness 0.8S) is 35 ° C., using a drawing machine. Stretching at a draw ratio of 3.2 times between the first hot roll and the second hot roll (70% of the maximum draw ratio), and further relaxing between the second hot roll and the third hot roll at a temperature of the third hot roll of 170 ° C. The ratio was 9%, and the film was stretched 1.02 times between the third hot roll and the draw roll to give about 56 dtex, 2
A drawn yarn of 4 filaments was obtained. The yarn tension in the relaxation treatment zone was 0.01 cN / dtex.
The spinnability and the drawability were good and no yarn breakage occurred. The expansion and contraction rate of the raw yarn before heat setting is 30.8
The phase of the crimps was shifted by the semi-exposed crimp, and excellent bulkiness and stretchability were exhibited. After heat treatment, the expansion / contraction ratio is 63.9%, the expansion / contraction elastic modulus is 92%, and the contraction stress is 0.2.
4 cN / dtex, peak temperature of shrinkage stress 142 ° C, bulk altitude 4
It was 2 cc / g. (Two prototype yarns of 56 dtex are aligned 112 dtex and the number of twists is 1,000 t / m.
(Twisting coefficient K = 10,580) and twisting yarn is applied to the 2/2 twill structure and the width is 138 cm (warp density is 108 yarns / 2.
5cm, weft density 77 / 2.5cm)
Relax treatment was carried out in 3 baths at 60 ° C. to 95 ° C. with a softer, followed by setting with a pin tenter at a width of 180 ° C. and direct dyeing at a dyeing temperature of 100 ° C. Subsequently, finishing finishing was set at 160 ° C. to obtain a composite fabric having a width of 91 cm (warp density 163 / 2.5 cm, weft density 81 / 2.5 cm). The A100 type raw cotton is a non-fibrillated type raw cotton, and adopted a clear processing condition that does not incorporate the step of enzyme treatment fibrillation in the dyeing processing step. The surface of the fabric is flat, no wrinkles are generated, and the crimp expression of the compact PPT conjugate yarn with high density and excellent luster causes extremely large width shrinkage and compact vertical warp yarn.
Despite its high density, it had an excellent soft stretchability of 30% in the width direction by a simple method and showed a soft and swelling texture. As a result of checking the quality of finished products JIS
L0217's washing rate change by washing method 103 is minus 2.5% vertically, minus 0.5% horizontally, J
2. W & W property (wash & wear property) by washing and drying according to IS1096 is compared with ATCC judgment replica.
It was a passing level in the 5th grade. On the other hand, "Tencel"
The W & W property of 100% was a failure level between the first grade and the second grade. Further, the elongation rate in the horizontal direction of JIS-L1096B method was 35.5%, and the elongation recovery rate was 85.6% after 1 hour.

Example 6 The warp yarn of Example 1 was changed to use "TENCEL" raw cotton standard type 1.4 dtex, 38 mm, and 19.
A spun yarn of 7 tex (cotton number 30/1) was used. As the weft, the PTT / PET side-by-side type bimetal yarn 56dtex and 24 filaments used in Example 5 were used, and the weaving conditions of the weaving machine were the same as in Example 1. For the dyeing process, a fibrillation process incorporating an enzyme process was carried out for finishing. Finishing width 89 cm (warp density 166 / 2.5
cm, weft density 81 / 2.5 cm), the surface is fibrillated and has a compact, high-density elegant luster, and a soft texture and soft stretchability of 30% for a high-density feeling.
Had.

Example 7 Semi-visible bulky polyester-based composite yarn 5 obtained in Example 5
"Tencel" with 6dtex24 filaments twisted twice at 1,000 T / m (twist coefficient K = 10,580)
Using a spun yarn, a 24-gauge double circular knitting machine was alternately sewn to create an interlock knitted fabric. 9 according to the standard method
Relax scouring and dyeing were performed at 8 ° C, and a clear finish was set without passing through the fibrillation process by enzyme treatment.
The obtained cloth had an elegant luster on the surface, a high-quality surface with a high-density feel, and excellent stretchability.

Example 8 As a warp yarn, triacetate filament yarn 84dtex-20 filament-KBA2 manufactured by Celanese Co. of the Netherlands
The type was set up on an air jet loom with untwisted sizing. A woven fabric was made by trial using a semi-exposed crimped polyester composite yarn as a weft yarn. The polyester-based composite yarn was manufactured as follows. Titanium oxide is used as a matting agent.
Homo-PTT with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 35% by weight of 1.38 (melt viscosity 1280 poise) and an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.35% by weight of titanium oxide were 0.65.
Homo-PTTs with a melt viscosity of 260 poise were separately melted and discharged from a 36-hole composite spinneret at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. at a composite ratio (wt%) of 50:50 and drawn at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min to obtain 235 dtex, A 36 filament side-by-side composite structure undrawn yarn (fiber cross-section shown in FIG. 3a) was obtained. The maximum draw ratio of the undrawn yarn is 4.6.
It was double. Further, after aging the undrawn yarn for 2 days at an environmental temperature of 25 ° C., a drawing machine is used to perform a first hot roll temperature of 70 ° C., a second hot roll temperature of mirror finishing (surface roughness 0.8S) of 35 ° C., a first hot roll temperature of 35 ° C. Stretching between the hot roll and the second hot roll was performed at a draw ratio of 3.2 times (70% of the maximum draw ratio), and the relaxation rate between the second hot roll and the third hot roll was 13% at the third hot roll temperature of 170 ° C. The film was drawn 1.02 times between the third hot roll and the draw roll to obtain about 84 dtex and 36 filaments of drawn yarn. The yarn tension in the relaxation treatment zone was 0.
It was 01 cN / dtex. The spinnability and the drawability were good and no yarn breakage occurred. The raw yarn showed a shift in the crimp phase due to the semi-exposed crimp having a stretch elongation ratio before heat treatment of 28.7%, and exhibited excellent bulkiness and stretch properties. After the heat treatment, the expansion / contraction expansion ratio was 62.1%, the expansion / contraction elastic modulus was 95%, the contraction stress was 0.25 cN / dtex, the contraction stress peak temperature was 132 ° C., and the bulk height was 70 cc / g. The prototype yarn was untwisted and punched into a satin structure of 5 sheets (warp density 15
0 pieces / 2.5 cm, weft density 110 pieces / 2.5 cm)) is made, and the softening process of 3 tanks of 60 ° C to 95 ° C is performed with a softer, and then set with a pin tenter with a width of 180 ° C. Then, dyeing was performed with a disperse dye at a dyeing temperature of 120 ° C., and finishing finishing was set at 160 ° C. to obtain a composite fabric. The surface of the cloth was flat and free of grain, and had a stretchability of 32% in the width direction by a simple method, showing a soft and swelling texture.

Example 9 Using the semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn obtained in Example 8, triacetate multifilament yarn 84
20 filaments of dtex and 20 filaments were supplied to alternate yarn feeders by a 28 gauge single knitting machine to form a circular knitted fabric with a plain weave structure. This was subjected to relaxation scouring at 98 ° C. in a spread form by a conventional method, followed by dyeing and finish setting. The obtained fabric had a high quality with no surface wrinkles, and exhibited excellent stretchability and stretchback property as compared with the conventional 100% triacetate cloth.

Example 10 The semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn of 56 dtex24 filament of Example 8 was used, and triacetate multi-filament yarn 84 dtex of Celanese Co., Ltd.
The 0 filament yarn is aligned with a ring-type twisting machine manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho and pre-twisted at 30 T / M, and then the wound parn is subjected to additional twisting with a double twister 308 type manufactured by Murata Manufacturing to obtain a total twist of 1,000 T / M. (Twisting coefficient K: 1,1
In 83), two varieties of S and Z direction twists were made. The twist setting was performed by a wet heat vacuum setting method at 65 ° C. for 30 minutes.
The composite twisted yarn after the composite twisted yarn has a crimp elongation of 18 due to heat treatment.
%Met. Using this composite twisted composite yarn, two S and Z yarns were alternately used for the warp yarn and the weft yarn, and a woven fabric was trial-produced with a double warp structure. A rapier loom was used for weaving. Width of 143 cm, density (122 vertical / 2.5 cm, width 7)
7 lines / 2.5 cm). This greige was put into a usual dyeing process. Relaxing is spread and 50 ℃ to 98 ℃
After scouring was carried out in the temperature rising tank of No. 1, it was carried out at 110 ° C. in a liquid flow system. After that, it is preset at 170 ° C in dry heat and the width after relaxation is 89 cm from 106 cm to a width of 129.
The number of lines / 2.5 cm was 105 lines / 2.5 cm. Subsequently, the temperature was raised with a jet dyeing machine to dye the disperse dye at 120 ° C., and after reduction washing, a dry heat finishing set was performed at 160 ° C., and the width was 107 cm and the horizontal density was 104 lines / 2.5 cm.
The finished composite fabric had a high-grade appearance with little wrinkles on the surface, and had a soft stretch of about 25% or 15% in the vertical / horizontal direction, which was excellent in the sense of soft swelling in the vertical and horizontal directions. Further, there was no difference in dyeing between the used yarns, and there was no flicker due to almost the same color, and the dyeing fastness was acceptable and there was no problem.

Comparative Example 2 A latent crimp-developing bimetal conjugate yarn 56dtex, 12 filament yarn produced by a conventional PET / PET IV difference (0.5 / 0.75) composite spinning was used and compared with Example 10. To produce a composite fabric. The latent crimp-expressing conjugate yarn used was a multifilament yarn unwound from the original yarn pun, unlike the semi-exposed crimped polyester-based composite yarn shown in Example 10, in which single fibers were aggregated and had a loose coil. However, the multifilament yarn was not bulky, and the phases of the multifilament yarns were uniform, and the yarn had a straight shape with full stretch due to the tension at the time of compounding. The stretch elongation before heat treatment of the conjugate multifilament yarn was zero, and the crimp stretch ratio by heat treatment was 45.1%. This conjugate multifilament yarn and the triacetate multifilament yarn used in Example 10 were aligned to prepare a plied yarn under the same conditions. For the fabric, the same process as in Example 10 was selected for comparison. Twisting yarn and twist stop set were performed, and a composite fabric greige machine was created under the same conditions. Compared with the tenth example, the sexuality of the greige increased by about 2 cm. The greige cloth was passed through the greige cloth in a relaxed manner in a manner contradictory to the greige cloth of Example 10, but there was almost no shrinkage, so 110 ° C. was relaxed by jet dyeing. The relaxation width was 120 cm and the horizontal density was 85. After dry heat presetting, perform jet dyeing at 120 ° C and width 1
The composite fabric was raised under the finishing setting conditions of 18 cm and a horizontal density of 90 pieces / 2.5 cm. Although the finished product had some resilience, it was inferior to Example 10 in terms of quality and stretchability due to difference in dyeability.

Example 11 A fabric was produced by changing the weft yarn while leaving the warp yarn of Example 10 as it was. The following weft yarns were used. Semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn 56 of Example 10
dtex, 24 filament yarn, and PET / PET latent latent crimp expression conjugate yarn 5 used in Comparative Example 2
6 dtex, 12 filament yarns are drawn and aligned, and a composite twisted yarn is obtained under the ply-twisting method and twisting conditions of Example 10 and 112 dtex.
36 filament yarn was made (ie PTT / P
(A plied yarn of ET type conjugate yarn and conventional PET / PET type conjugate yarn). The crimp elongation of the obtained composite twisted yarn by heat treatment was 50.5%. Weaving and dyeing were performed under the same conditions as in Example 10. The relaxation width was 95 cm, which was rather low, but was finished to the same amount. Compared with the composite fabric of Example 10, it was slightly inferior in soft stretchability, but was excellent in tension and waist resilience and had a finish that looked good.

Example 12 A woven fabric was produced by changing the weft yarn while leaving the warp yarn of Example 10 as it was. The following weft yarns were used. Two semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn 56dtex24 filaments in which individual multifilaments having a circular cross section obtained in Example 4 are integrated and phases of valleys of three-dimensional crimps are substantially aligned are drawn. A woven fabric was made on a trial basis using the weft yarns that were aligned and twisted. The dyeing process was performed in the same batch as above to obtain a sample. As a result of scanning the cross section of the finished sample with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., the twisted aggregate of the multi-filament yarn with a Daruma-shaped cross-section has a phase shift. Although it had an aggregated form and almost no hollow form,
The polyester-based composite yarn having a circular cross-section was twisted, and a hollow hollow structure was developed in the length direction of the multifilament aggregate, which was considered to be formed by the expression of coil-like crimps, and was a woven fabric with excellent resilience.

Example 13 Bamboo fiber 100% spun yarn 14.7 tex spun by cotton spinning with 1.1 dtex staple and 38 mm fiber length by viscose method from Chinese bamboo cultivated in vertical yarn (Cotton count 40/1) was sized and set on an air jet loom. The polyester-based composite yarn used in Example 1 was used as the weft yarn without twisting, and was punched into a flat structure to fabricate a trial fabric. Raw machine width 173 cm (Supply density 101 / 2.5c
m, weft density 96 lines / 2.5 cm) was made, and a relaxing process was performed in a softener in three tanks at 60 ° C. to 95 ° C. to obtain a width of 125 cm and a horizontal density of 97 lines / 2.5 cm. Set with a pin tenter at a width of 180 ° C, dye with a disperse dye at a dyeing temperature of 120 ° C, and lower the temperature to 98 ° C.
Dye directly in the dyebath and set at 160 ° C,
A composite fabric having a width of 121 cm and a horizontal density of 99 pieces / 2.5 cm was obtained. The obtained fabric showed 28% stretchability in the horizontal direction by a simple method.

The hygroscopicity ΔMR was 5.9% and the hygroscopicity was at a comfort level when worn. Note that △ MR
(%) = Those obtained by MR 2 -MR 1. Here, MR 1 refers to the moisture absorption rate (%) when left to stand in an atmosphere of 20 × 65% RH for 24 hours from an absolutely dry state, and corresponds to the state of being in a clothes dance, that is, the environment before wearing. . In addition, MR 2 is 30 ° C x 90% RH from absolutely dry state.
It indicates the moisture absorption rate (%) when left in the atmosphere for 24 hours, and corresponds to the environment inside the clothes in the exercise state. △
MR is represented by a value obtained by subtracting the value of MR 1 from MR 2 , and corresponds to how much stuffiness in clothes is absorbed when exercising after wearing clothes. The higher the, the more comfortable it is.

Example 14 P with polytrimethylene terephthalate homopolymer
As a TT semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn,
The prototype was made as follows. Homo PTT with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.18 (melt viscosity 1120 poise) and an intrinsic viscosity (I
V) is 0.65 (melt viscosity 260 poise) homo P
Melt each TT separately and spin at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C for 12
A composite ratio (wt%) of 50:50 was discharged from the composite spinneret of the holes (fiber cross section is shown in FIG. 3g), and at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min, 165 decitex was obtained and a side-by-side composite structure undrawn yarn of 12 filaments was obtained. . Further, hot roll-hot plate drawing machine (thread length: 20 cm, surface roughness: 3
S), hot roll temperature 70 ° C., hot plate temperature 145
55 decitex by stretching at a draw ratio of 3.0 times
A drawn yarn of 2 filaments (single fiber fineness 4.6 decitex) was obtained. Fiber properties include shrinkage stress of 0.34 (cN
/ dtex), peak temperature 137 (° C), crimp extension ratio before heat treatment 22.2 (%), crimp extension ratio after heat treatment 60.5
(%)Met. Further, the crimp when unwound from the pattern is of a semi-exposed type in which the phases of peaks and valleys are shifted between the single fibers to form a Woolly processed yarn-like form (a form as shown in FIG. 6 (1a)). It was a thing.

[0117] The polyester-based composite yarns, which are four aligned and have a sweet twist of 200T / m, are used as the weft yarns.
A 13.9 tex count (metric type 2/72) 100% merino wool spun yarn was used as a warp yarn to prepare a poplin having a flat structure and dyed and finished. As a comparative product, 100% merino wool spun yarn was used for the warp yarn and the weft yarn to prepare a poplin having a flat structure.

[0118] Compared with the finished density vertical x horizontal 77 x 58 / 2.54 cm of the 100% wool fabric which is a comparative product,
The length × width density of the fabric according to the present invention is 75 × 65 /
It was 2.54 cm. The 100% wool product has the texture and quality that belong to the highest quality wool products, but has almost no stretchability. On the other hand, the woven fabric according to the present invention maintains the high quality of wool although the texture and quality are slightly different, and the stretchability in the horizontal direction is a simple method that is usually performed by stretching with a ruler. %
Was excellent in recovery power.

The comparative 100% wool woven fabric and the woven fabric using the PTT semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn according to the present invention were woven by a standard woolen fabric standard process, and were dyed and finished. The conditions were that of a worsted fabric, the dyeing conditions were a temperature of 105 ° C., the PTT side was dyed with a disperse dye, and then the temperature was lowered to dye the wool side under the conditions of wool.

[0120]

According to the present invention, a polyester composite yarn, a natural fiber, and a regenerated fiber composed of a cellulose polymer,
When a semi-synthetic fiber and at least one fiber selected from purified cellulose fibers are combined into a composite fabric by using a composite means such as interwoven, interwoven, or twisted yarn, the polyester composite yarn has excellent bulkiness. Due to the crimp-developing ability, since there are voids between the composite yarns, the binding force between fibers is small and the latent crimp-developing ability is excellent in the dyeing process. Further, as compared with the conventional latent crimp-expressing conjugate yarn, three-dimensional latent crimps can be manifested in the relaxation heat treatment in a low temperature region of normal temperature and normal pressure. It can be used in combination with natural fibers and cellulosic fibers, and it gives excellent stretchability with a soft touch with a bulge.Because it is non-torque, it does not easily give rise to Yangyanagi-like texture even if it is untwisted or sweet twisted. It is possible to obtain a high-quality fabric without the problem of dye contamination.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a diagram for explaining a method of measuring expansion / contraction expansion ratio and expansion / contraction elastic modulus.

FIG. 2 is a diagram for explaining a method for measuring an expansion / contraction elongation ratio that represents a semi-exposed crimp that appears in a yarn before heat treatment.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing an example of a fiber cross-sectional shape of the polyester-based composite yarn used in the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a diagram (front view) for explaining a method for measuring bulk altitude.

FIG. 5 is a diagram (cross-sectional view) for explaining a method for measuring bulk altitude.

FIG. 6 is a micrograph of a fiber shape showing an example of a crimped form of a polyester-based composite yarn preferably used in the present invention. (1a) shows a state in which, when unwound from the package wound in the yarn making process, the phases of the peaks and valleys of the crimps are shifted between the single fibers, and the coiled three-dimensional crimps are semi-visible. .
(1b) shows a state in which latent crimps were developed when (1a) was freely shrunk in hot water at 98 ° C. (2a) has a coiled shape in which the peaks and troughs of the crimps are aligned between the single fibers when unwound from the package wound in the yarn making process.
It shows a state where the dimensional crimp is semi-visible. (2b) is (2
When a) is freely shrunk in hot water of 98 ° C., a latent crimp is developed.

FIG. 7 is a photomicrograph of a fiber shape showing an example of the crimp form of a conventional PET / PET latent latent crimp type bimetal composite yarn as a reference example for the crimp form of the present invention. That is, (1a), (1b), (2a), (2b) in FIG.
Are (1a), (1b), (2a), and
It is a reference example corresponding to (2b).

[Explanation of symbols]

1: Sample stand 2: PET film 3: Metal fitting with pointer 4: load 5: Scale 6: Notch 7: Kase

   ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued front page    (72) Inventor Hidetoshi Suzuki             Toray shares 1-6-20 Dojima, Kita-ku, Osaka-shi             Company Osaka office F-term (reference) 4L002 AA00 AA01 AA02 AA07 AB00                       AB01 AB02 AB05 AC01 AC02                       BA01 DA01 DA04 EA06 FA01                 4L048 AA07 AA08 AA13 AA20 AA22                       AA51 AA55 AB01 AB07 AB12                       AB18 AB36 AC11 CA03 CA04                       CA13 CA15 DA02 DA03

Claims (14)

[Claims]
1. A polyester-based composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester-based polymers, at least one component of which is mainly polyester of polytrimethylene terephthalate, and a recycled fiber composed of natural fibers and cellulose-based polymers. A composite fabric comprising at least one fiber selected from a semi-synthetic fiber and a purified cellulose fiber.
2. The semi-exposed crimped bulky polyester-based composite yarn, wherein the polyester-based composite yarn develops crimps when unwound from a yarn-making process package. Composite fabric.
3. A composite fabric, characterized in that the composite fabric according to claim 1 or 2 is heat-treated to allow the polyester-based composite yarn to develop shrinkage and three-dimensional coil-like crimps.
4. The composite fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the stretching elongation ratio of the polyester-based composite yarn before heat treatment is 10 to 40%.
5. The stretch elongation of the polyester-based composite yarn after heat treatment is 30 to 150%, and the stretch elastic modulus is 8.
It is 5% or more, The composite cloth according to claim 3 or 4.
6. The polyester-based composite yarn is woven or knitted with at least one fiber yarn selected from cotton yarn, spun rayon yarn, copper ammonia rayon yarn, acetate filament yarn, and refined cellulose fiber yarn. The composite fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, which is characterized.
7. The composite fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the regenerated fiber made of the cellulose-based polymer is a viscose filament and / or a spun yarn made of bamboo as a raw material.
8. The polyester-based composite yarn is formed into a composite fiber bundle together with at least one fiber yarn selected from cotton yarn, spun rayon yarn, cuprammonium rayon yarn, acetate filament yarn and refined cellulose fiber yarn. The expansion and contraction rate of the composite fiber bundle after heat treatment is 10 to 60.
%, And the composite fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
9. The polyester-based composite yarn having a twist coefficient K of 0 to 20,000, which has been untwisted to center-twisted, is used at least in part. The composite fabric described. However, twist coefficient K = T × D 0.5 T: number of twists per 1 m of yarn length, D: fineness of yarn (dtex)
10. The polyester-based composite yarn, when unwound from a package, develops a coil-like crimp in a form in which the phases of peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp are shifted between the single fibers of the yarn. The composite fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein
11. The polyester-based composite yarn, when unwound from a package, develops a coil-like crimp in the form in which the phases of peaks and valleys of the three-dimensional crimp are aligned between the single fibers of the yarn. The composite fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein
12. The composite fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the polyester-based composite yarn has a coiled hollow structure at the center in the lengthwise direction of the yarn.
13. A polyester-based composite yarn composed of two or more kinds of polyester-based polymers, at least one component of which is mainly polyester of polytrimethylene terephthalate, and a recycled fiber composed of a natural fiber and a cellulose-based polymer. , A synthetic fabric containing at least one fiber selected from semi-synthetic fibers and purified cellulose fibers is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment to cause shrinkage and three-dimensional crimp in the polyester-based composite yarn, and then dyeing. A method for producing a composite fabric.
14. A composite fabric comprising the polyester-based composite yarn in which at least a part thereof is subjected to center twisting is subjected to a dyeing process after a latent heat-crimp of the polyester-based composite yarn is developed by relaxing heat treatment. The method for producing a composite fabric according to claim 13, wherein a coil-shaped hollow structure is formed in the central portion of the polyester-based composite yarn in the lengthwise direction.
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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JP2005155001A (en) * 2003-10-31 2005-06-16 Toray Ind Inc Fiber yarn and fabric using the same
JP2006214056A (en) * 2005-02-07 2006-08-17 Toray Ind Inc Woven fabric
JP2007009396A (en) * 2005-05-31 2007-01-18 Toray Ind Inc Union cloth and method for producing the same
US7310932B2 (en) 2005-02-11 2007-12-25 Invista North America S.A.R.L. Stretch woven fabrics
US7549281B2 (en) 2003-10-31 2009-06-23 Toray Industries, Inc. Fiber yarn and cloth using the same
JP2010031432A (en) * 2008-07-31 2010-02-12 Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd Stretch woven fabric
KR101321569B1 (en) 2012-06-29 2013-10-28 박창숙 Producing method of blended bulky t/r hair yarn and knit fabrics made thereof
JP2015120983A (en) * 2013-12-20 2015-07-02 ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 Interknit fabric
KR101828045B1 (en) 2016-03-14 2018-02-09 정근용 Method for manufactruring the textile having a three-dimensional structure
WO2018201658A1 (en) * 2017-05-05 2018-11-08 南通金仕达超微阻燃材料有限公司 Broad woven fabric using a blend of cotton and bamboo fiber, and production method thereof
KR20180136305A (en) * 2017-06-14 2018-12-24 주식회사 영우티앤에프리드 Multiplex high elastic fabric made from twisted yarn including high tension tri-acetate

Cited By (14)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2005155001A (en) * 2003-10-31 2005-06-16 Toray Ind Inc Fiber yarn and fabric using the same
US7549281B2 (en) 2003-10-31 2009-06-23 Toray Industries, Inc. Fiber yarn and cloth using the same
JP2006214056A (en) * 2005-02-07 2006-08-17 Toray Ind Inc Woven fabric
US7310932B2 (en) 2005-02-11 2007-12-25 Invista North America S.A.R.L. Stretch woven fabrics
US7461499B2 (en) 2005-02-11 2008-12-09 Invista North America S.Ar.L. Stretch woven fabrics
US7637091B2 (en) 2005-02-11 2009-12-29 Invista North America S.á.r.l. Stretch woven fabrics
JP2007009396A (en) * 2005-05-31 2007-01-18 Toray Ind Inc Union cloth and method for producing the same
JP2010031432A (en) * 2008-07-31 2010-02-12 Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co Ltd Stretch woven fabric
KR101321569B1 (en) 2012-06-29 2013-10-28 박창숙 Producing method of blended bulky t/r hair yarn and knit fabrics made thereof
JP2015120983A (en) * 2013-12-20 2015-07-02 ユニチカトレーディング株式会社 Interknit fabric
KR101828045B1 (en) 2016-03-14 2018-02-09 정근용 Method for manufactruring the textile having a three-dimensional structure
WO2018201658A1 (en) * 2017-05-05 2018-11-08 南通金仕达超微阻燃材料有限公司 Broad woven fabric using a blend of cotton and bamboo fiber, and production method thereof
KR20180136305A (en) * 2017-06-14 2018-12-24 주식회사 영우티앤에프리드 Multiplex high elastic fabric made from twisted yarn including high tension tri-acetate
KR101957331B1 (en) 2017-06-14 2019-03-13 주식회사 영우티앤에프리드 Multiplex high elastic fabric made from twisted yarn including high tension tri-acetate

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