JP5116995B2 - Long / short composite spun yarn and fabric comprising the same - Google Patents

Long / short composite spun yarn and fabric comprising the same Download PDF

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JP5116995B2
JP5116995B2 JP2006155942A JP2006155942A JP5116995B2 JP 5116995 B2 JP5116995 B2 JP 5116995B2 JP 2006155942 A JP2006155942 A JP 2006155942A JP 2006155942 A JP2006155942 A JP 2006155942A JP 5116995 B2 JP5116995 B2 JP 5116995B2
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fiber
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spun yarn
yarn
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知徳 新宅
功 青柳
登 鎌田
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東レ株式会社
丸一繊維株式会社
モリリン株式会社
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本発明は、ピーチスキンタッチ調の表面感を有し、膨らみ感、高ソフトストレッチ性と回復性に優れた長短複合紡績糸に関し、該長短複合紡績糸を用いた織編物等の布帛に関する。   The present invention relates to a long / short composite spun yarn having a peach skin touch-like surface feeling and having excellent swell feeling, high soft stretch properties and recoverability, and relates to a fabric such as a woven or knitted fabric using the long / short composite spun yarn.
従来、ピーチスキンタッチ調の表面感を得ること等をねらいとした複合紡績糸としてさまざまなものが提案されている。   Conventionally, various yarns have been proposed as composite spun yarn aiming at obtaining a peach skin touch-like surface feeling.
たとえば、軽量で嵩高性に富み、保温性に優れるとともに平面や屈曲などの摩擦に対しても、白化現象の生じにくい、複合紡績糸として、中空率10〜40%、沸水収縮率8%以上の中空フィラメント糸と短繊維束とが重ね合わされて加撚してなる芯鞘構造の複合紡績糸であって、芯部の中空フィラメント糸と鞘部の短繊維束との混用重量比が芯/鞘≦1.5であり、糸形成後、沸水処理されてなる複合紡績糸が提案されている(特許文献1)。   For example, as a composite spun yarn having a light weight, high bulkiness, excellent heat retention, and less likely to cause whitening even against friction such as flat surfaces and bending, a hollow rate of 10 to 40% and boiling water shrinkage rate of 8% or more A composite spun yarn having a core-sheath structure in which a hollow filament yarn and a short fiber bundle are superposed and twisted, and the mixed weight ratio of the hollow filament yarn in the core portion and the short fiber bundle in the sheath portion is a core / sheath A composite spun yarn obtained by boiling water treatment after yarn formation is proposed (Patent Document 1).
しかしながら、特許文献1に記載の提案では、加撚していることから、フィラメントの沸水収縮率の規制や、さらにはヌードヤーン発生を抑えるために、必ず沸水処理が必要であることから、製造に関しては生産管理などが難しいものであった。   However, in the proposal described in Patent Document 1, since it is twisted, boiling water treatment is always necessary to regulate the boiling water shrinkage rate of the filament and to further suppress the occurrence of nude yarn. Production management was difficult.
また、ピーチスキン調の表面外観を有し、防皺性にすぐれ、洗濯収縮が少なく、ソフトな風合と肌触りの良好な織編物として、単繊維デニールが3d以下で、平均繊維長が64mm以内の溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維(a)とポリエステル系短繊維(b)により芯鞘複合紡績糸の鞘部と芯部をそれぞれ構成し、その混用重量比を0.7≦(a)/(b)≦3.0としてなる芯鞘複合紡績糸よりなる織編物であって、その表面にフィブリルを有する芯鞘複合紡績糸織編物が提案されている(特許文献2)。   In addition, it has a peach skin-like surface appearance, excellent anti-molding properties, little washing shrinkage, soft knitted fabric and knitted fabric with a soft feel and a good feel, with a single fiber denier of 3d or less and an average fiber length of 64mm or less. The solvent-spun cellulose short fiber (a) and the polyester short fiber (b) constitute the sheath and core of the core-sheath composite spun yarn, respectively, and the mixed weight ratio is 0.7 ≦ (a) / (b ) A woven or knitted fabric made of a core / sheath composite spun yarn satisfying ≦ 3.0, and a core / sheath composite spun yarn / knitted fabric having fibrils on the surface thereof has been proposed (Patent Document 2).
しかしながら、このものはハリ、コシ感やピリング性で劣るものであった。
また、フィブリル化する特性を応用した独特のピーチスキン調の表面感を有する外観を有し、洗濯後の寸法安定性にも優れ、ソフトで肌触が良好な、衣料用の複合紡績糸として、溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維の紡績糸を芯糸に用い、一本または複数本のフィラメント糸を鞘糸として用い、フィラメント糸の少なくとも一本が、紡績撚方向とは逆方向に配置されている溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維を用いた複合紡績糸が提案されている(特許文献3)。
However, this was inferior in elasticity, stiffness and pilling.
In addition, as a composite spun yarn for clothing that has a unique peach skin-like surface appearance that applies the properties of fibrillation, has excellent dimensional stability after washing, is soft and soft to the touch, Solvent-spun cellulose in which a spun yarn of solvent-spun cellulose fiber is used as a core yarn, one or more filament yarns are used as sheath yarns, and at least one of the filament yarns is arranged in a direction opposite to the spinning twist direction A composite spun yarn using fibers has been proposed (Patent Document 3).
しかしながら、このものはハリ、コシ感や風合いの点ではまだ改良の余地があると判断されるものであった。   However, it was judged that there was still room for improvement in terms of elasticity, stiffness and texture.
一方、フィラメントと短繊維から構成される長短複合紡績糸に関しては、数々の研究・開発が行われており、フィラメントに伸縮性フィラメントを用いてストレッチ性を付与したものとして、例えばポリウレタン系の弾性糸を使用した短繊維との複合紡績糸(CSY)や、伸縮性を持ったフィラメントを集束させて短繊維束の芯部に位置させるコアヤーン等があげられる。しかしながら、繊維自身の伸縮によるストレッチ性を利用しているポリウレタン系のような弾性繊維を用いた場合には、高いストレッチ性と反発性は得られるが、風合いやドレープ性、染色性に劣るといった問題がある。また、仮撚加工糸のような比較的大きな捲縮を持ったフィラメントを用いた場合には、ある程度のストレッチ性は得られるが、フカツキ感が強くなりすぎて好ましくない。   On the other hand, many researches and developments have been conducted on long and short composite spun yarns composed of filaments and short fibers. For example, polyurethane-based elastic yarns that have been provided with stretch properties using stretchable filaments. And composite yarns (CSY) with short fibers using cores, and core yarns that converge stretchable filaments and place them at the core of the short fiber bundle. However, when using elastic fibers such as polyurethane, which utilizes the stretchability of the fiber itself, high stretchability and resilience can be obtained, but the texture, drapeability, and dyeability are poor. There is. In addition, when a filament having a relatively large crimp such as false twisted yarn is used, a certain degree of stretchability is obtained, but the feeling of fluffiness becomes too strong, which is not preferable.
そこで、伸縮性フィラメントとして、複合ポリマ間の収縮率差によって生じる3次元コイルを持ったサイドバイサイド型複合繊維を用いることが考えられる。   Therefore, it is conceivable to use a side-by-side type composite fiber having a three-dimensional coil generated by a difference in contraction rate between composite polymers as the stretchable filament.
しかし、従来のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維は、織物拘束中で熱処理を受けると、そのままポリマーの収縮が熱固定されて捲縮の回復能力が低くなるために十分なストレッチ性が得られなくなるという問題があった。また、フィラメントと短繊維の長短複合紡績糸では、芯成分と鞘成分との絡合性、拘束性に欠け、鞘成分と芯成分が分離したいわゆるヌードヤーンの発生、また後の織編物工程通過時の摩擦によるネップの発生等の問題があった。   However, when the conventional side-by-side type composite fiber is subjected to heat treatment in a fabric restraint, the shrinkage of the polymer is fixed as it is, and the ability to recover crimp is reduced, so that sufficient stretchability cannot be obtained. It was. In addition, long and short composite spun yarns of filaments and short fibers lack in entanglement and restraint between the core component and the sheath component, so-called nude yarn is generated in which the sheath component and the core component are separated, and pass through the subsequent knitting and knitting process. There were problems such as the generation of neps due to friction at times.
そこで、従来の長短複合紡績糸は上記のような問題を防ぐために、紡績糸の撚りを通常対比高めに設定して、芯成分のフィラメントと鞘成分の短繊維を強く拘束させている。しかし、このような方法によると短繊維成分の収束が強くなるために、ソフトな風合いと膨らみ感が得られないだけでなく、芯成分にサイドバイサイド型の複合繊維フィラメントを用いた場合には捲縮の発現を抑制してしまい、結果的にストレッチ性も損なわれるという問題があった。   Therefore, in order to prevent the above-described problems, the conventional long and short composite spun yarn strongly constrains the core component filament and the sheath component short fiber by setting the twist of the spun yarn to be higher than usual. However, according to such a method, the short fiber component is strongly converged, so that not only a soft texture and a feeling of swelling are obtained, but also when a side-by-side type composite fiber filament is used as the core component, crimping is performed. There is a problem in that the expression of is suppressed, and as a result, the stretchability is also impaired.
そこで、一方にポリメチレンテレフタレートを主体としたポリエステルを使用したサイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントを用いた長短複合紡績糸が提案されている(特許文献4)。このサイドバイサイド型複合繊維を用いることにより良好なストレッチ性を得ることができるが、ハリ、コシ感や風合いの点で更なる改良が求められていた。
特開平7−278982号公報 特開平9−143836号公報 特開平11−172544号公報 特開2003−20533号公報
Thus, a long / short composite spun yarn using a side-by-side type composite fiber filament using polyester mainly composed of polymethylene terephthalate has been proposed (Patent Document 4). Although good stretchability can be obtained by using this side-by-side type composite fiber, further improvements have been demanded in terms of elasticity, firmness and texture.
JP-A-7-278982 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 9-143836 JP 11-172544 A JP 2003-20533 A
本発明は、良好なピーチスキンタッチ調の表面感を有し、ハリ・コシ感や触感にも優れた布帛を提供することを可能にする新規な長短複合紡績糸と、該長短複合紡績糸を使用して得られる良好なピーチスキンタッチ調の表面感、良好なハリ・コシ感と触感を有する織編物・布帛を提供することを目的とする。   The present invention provides a novel long / short composite spun yarn that has a good peach skin touch-like surface feel, and that can provide a fabric that is excellent in elasticity, touch and touch, and the long / short composite spun yarn. An object of the present invention is to provide a woven / knitted fabric / fabric having a good peach skin touch-like surface feeling obtained by use, and a good firmness, firmness and feel.
前記した課題を解決するため本発明は、次の(1)記載の構成を有する。
(1)一方がポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを主体としたポリエステルである2種類のポリエステル系重合体を繊維長さ方向に沿ってサイドバイサイド型に貼り合わせた複合繊維フィラメントを芯部に有し、鞘部に、繊維軸方向に沿って1〜10μmの繊維直径で剥離分繊したフィブリルを有する溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維を有するとともに、実質的に無撚である長短複合紡績糸であって、前記芯部のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントが紡績糸全体の15〜60重量%を占め、前記鞘部の溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維が紡績糸全体の40〜85重量%を占めることを特徴とする長短複合紡績糸。
In order to solve the above-described problem, the present invention has the following configuration (1).
(1) The core portion has a composite fiber filament in which two types of polyester polymers, one of which is polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded side-by-side along the fiber length direction. A long and short composite spun yarn having solvent-spun cellulose-based short fibers having fibrils separated and separated at a fiber diameter of 1 to 10 μm along the fiber axis direction, and substantially non-twisted, A long / short composite spun yarn , wherein the side-by-side type composite fiber filament occupies 15 to 60% by weight of the entire spun yarn, and the solvent-spun cellulose fiber in the sheath portion occupies 40 to 85% by weight of the spun yarn.
また、かかる本発明の長短複合紡績糸は、より好ましくは、以下の(2)〜(3)のうちのいずれかに記載の具体的構成を有するものである。 In addition, the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention preferably has a specific configuration described in any of the following (2) to (3) .
(2)前記サイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントの20%伸長時の伸長回復率が80%以上であることを特徴とする前記(1)に記載の長短複合紡績糸。 (2) The long / short composite spun yarn according to (1), wherein an elongation recovery rate at 20% elongation of the side-by-side type composite fiber filament is 80% or more.
(3)表面にフィブリルを有している上記(1)〜(2)のいずれかに記載の長短複合紡績糸が用いられてなり、ピーチスキンタッチ調を有することを特徴とする布帛。 (3) A fabric having a peach skin touch tone, comprising the long and short composite spun yarn according to any one of the above (1) to (2) having fibrils on the surface.
本発明によれば、良好なピーチスキンタッチ調の表面感を有し、これまでにないハリ・コシ感や触感を有する、風合いに優れた布帛を提供することができる。   ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, it can provide the fabric excellent in the texture which has the surface feeling of a favorable peach skin touch tone, and has an unprecedented firmness and a touch feeling.
本発明の長短複合紡績糸は、一方がポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを主体としたポリエステルである2種類のポリエステル系重合体を繊維長さ方向に沿ってサイドバイサイド型に貼り合わせた複合繊維フィラメントを芯部に有し、鞘部に、繊維軸方向に沿って1〜10μmの繊維直径で剥離分繊したフィブリルを有する溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維を有するとともに、実質的に無撚の長短複合紡績糸である。 The long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention has a composite fiber filament in which two types of polyester polymers, one of which is polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, bonded side by side along the fiber length direction. It has a solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber having fibrils separated and separated at a fiber diameter of 1 to 10 μm along the fiber axis direction in the sheath portion, and is a substantially untwisted long / short composite spun yarn.
まず、本発明の長短複合紡績糸に用いるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維のマルチフィラメントについて説明する。   First, the multifilament of the side-by-side type composite fiber used for the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention will be described.
本発明で用いるサイドバイサイド型の複合繊維は、固有粘度や共重合成分、共重合率等が異なる重合体を貼り合わせ、それらの弾性回復特性や収縮特性の差によって、捲縮を発現するものである。固有粘度差を有するサイドバイサイド型複合の場合、紡糸、延伸時に高固有粘度側に応力が集中するため、2成分間で内部歪みが異なる。そのため、延伸後の弾性回復率差により高粘度側が大きく収縮し、単繊維内で歪みが生じて3次元コイル捲縮の形態をとる。この3次元コイルの径および単位繊維長当たりのコイル数は、高収縮成分と低収縮成分との収縮差(弾性回復率差を含む)によって決まると言ってもよく、収縮差が大きいほどコイル径が小さく、単位繊維長当たりのコイル数が多くなる。   The side-by-side type composite fiber used in the present invention is one in which polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, copolymerization components, copolymerization rates, and the like are bonded together, and crimps are developed due to differences in their elastic recovery characteristics and shrinkage characteristics. . In the case of a side-by-side type composite having an intrinsic viscosity difference, stress concentrates on the high intrinsic viscosity side during spinning and drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side contracts greatly due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching, and distortion occurs in the single fiber, resulting in a three-dimensional coil crimp. It can be said that the diameter of this three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per unit fiber length are determined by the shrinkage difference (including the elastic recovery rate difference) between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component. And the number of coils per unit fiber length increases.
ストレッチ素材として要求されるコイル捲縮は、コイル径が小さく、単位繊維長当たりのコイル数が多い(伸長特性に優れ、見映えが良い)、コイルの耐へたり性が良い(伸縮回数に応じたコイルのへたり量が小さく、ストレッチ保持性に優れる)、さらにはコイルの伸長回復時におけるヒステリシスロスが小さい(弾発性に優れ、フィット感がよい)等である。これらの要求を全て満足しつつ、ポリエステルとしての特性、例えば適度な張り腰、ドレープ性、高染色堅牢性を有することで、トータルバランスに優れたストレッチ素材とすることができる。   The coil crimp required as a stretch material has a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent stretch characteristics and good appearance), and good coil sag resistance (depending on the number of stretches) The amount of sag of the coil is small and the stretch retention is excellent), and the hysteresis loss at the time of recovery of extension of the coil is small (excellent elasticity and good fit). While satisfying all these requirements, it has a characteristic as polyester, for example, moderate tension, drape, and high dyeing fastness, so that it can be made into a stretch material excellent in total balance.
ここで、前記のコイル特性を満足するためには高収縮成分(高粘度成分)の特性が重要となる。コイルの伸縮特性は、低収縮成分を支点とした高収縮成分の伸縮特性が支配的となるため、高収縮成分に用いる重合体には高い伸長性および回復性が要求される。   Here, in order to satisfy the coil characteristics described above, the characteristics of the high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) are important. Since the expansion / contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion / contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as a fulcrum, the polymer used for the high contraction component is required to have high extensibility and recoverability.
そこで、本発明者らはポリエステルの特性を損なうことなく前記特性を満足させるために鋭意検討した結果、高収縮成分にポリトリメチレンテレフタレート(以下、PTTと略記する)を主体としたポリエステルを用いることを見出した。PTT繊維は、代表的なポリエステル繊維であるポリエチレンテレフタレート(以下、PETと略記する)やポリブチレンテレフタレート(以下、PBTと略記する)繊維と同等の力学的特性や化学的特性を有しつつ、弾性回復性、伸長回復性が極めて優れている。   Accordingly, as a result of intensive studies to satisfy the above-mentioned properties without impairing the properties of the polyester, the present inventors have used a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) as a high shrinkage component. I found. PTT fibers have the same mechanical and chemical characteristics as polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) and polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) fibers, which are typical polyester fibers, and are elastic. Excellent recovery and elongation recovery.
これは、PTTの結晶構造においてアルキレングリコール部のメチレン鎖がゴーシュ−ゴーシュの構造(分子鎖が90度に屈曲)であること、さらにはベンゼン環同士の相互作用(スタッキング、並列)による拘束点密度が低く、フレキシビリティーが高いことから、メチレン基の回転により分子鎖が容易に伸長・回復するためと考えられる。   This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the crystal structure of PTT is a Gauche-Gauche structure (the molecular chain is bent at 90 degrees), and further, the density of restraint points due to the interaction between benzene rings (stacking, parallel) This is probably because the molecular chain easily stretches and recovers due to the rotation of the methylene group.
ここで、本発明におけるPTTとは、テレフタル酸を主たる酸成分とし、1,3−プロパンジオールを主たるグリコール成分として得られるポリエステルである。ただし、20モル%、より好ましくは10モル%以下の割合で他のエステル結合の形成が可能な共重合成分を含むものであってもよい。共重合可能な化合物として、例えばイソフタル酸、コハク酸、シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸、アジピン酸、ダイマ酸、セバシン酸、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸などのジカルボン酸類、エチレングリコール、ジエチレングリコール、ブタンジオール、ネオペンチルグリコール、シクロヘキサンジメタノール、ポリエチレングリコール、ポリプロピレングリコールなどのジオール類を挙げることができるが、これらに限定されるものではない。また、必要に応じて、艶消し剤となる二酸化チタン、滑剤としてのシリカやアルミナの微粒子、抗酸化剤としてヒンダードフェノール誘導体、着色顔料などを添加してもよい。   Here, PTT in the present invention is a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as the main glycol component. However, it may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of 20 mol%, more preferably 10 mol% or less. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, Although diols, such as cyclohexane dimethanol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, can be mentioned, it is not limited to these. If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments as an antioxidant may be added.
また、低収縮成分(低粘度成分)には高収縮成分であるPTTとの界面接着性が良好で、製糸性が安定している繊維形成性ポリエステルであれば特に限定されるものではないが、力学的特性、化学的特性および原料価格を考慮すると、繊維形成能のあるPETが好ましい。   In addition, the low shrinkage component (low viscosity component) is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester that has good interfacial adhesion with PTT, which is a high shrinkage component, and has stable yarn-making properties. Considering mechanical properties, chemical properties, and raw material prices, PET capable of forming fibers is preferable.
また、両成分の複合比率は製糸性および繊維長さ方向のコイルの寸法均質性の点で、高収縮成分:低収縮成分=75:25〜35:65(重量%)の範囲が好ましく、65:35〜45:55の範囲がより好ましい。   Moreover, the composite ratio of both components is preferably in the range of high shrinkage component: low shrinkage component = 75: 25 to 35:65 (% by weight) in terms of yarn production and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. : The range of 35-45: 55 is more preferable.
本発明の長短複合紡績糸に用いるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維の断面形状は、丸断面、扁平断面、三角断面、マルチローバル断面、X型断面、その他の異形断面であってもよいが、特にダルマ型断面であることがより好ましい。   The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side type composite fiber used in the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention may be a round cross section, a flat cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-loval cross section, an X-shaped cross section, or other irregular cross sections, but in particular, a dharma type cross section. It is more preferable that
ここでいうダルマ型断面とは、例えば、図1に示すようなPTT成分イとPET成分ロの界面が断面の長手方向に対して交差する方向、好ましくは垂直方向に貼り合わされたものである。   The dharma-shaped cross section referred to here is, for example, bonded in the direction in which the interface between the PTT component A and the PET component B intersects with the longitudinal direction of the cross section, as shown in FIG.
サイドバイサイド型複合繊維は、マルチフィラメントの位相が揃い集合した形でSとZ方向のトルクを有するクリンプが交互に発現しやすく、結果的にSとZのトルクの変わり目においてマルチフィラメント全体が捩れ、織物にした場合にシボが発生しやすい。   The side-by-side type composite fiber is easy to express crimps having torque in the S and Z directions alternately in the form of multifilament phases being aligned, and as a result, the entire multifilament is twisted at the transition of the S and Z torques. If this is done, wrinkles are likely to occur.
そのため本発明の長短複合紡績糸に用いるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維は、捲縮の位相がマルチフィラメントを構成する単糸間で揃っていないことが好ましい。   Therefore, it is preferable that the side-by-side type composite fiber used for the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention does not have a crimped phase that is uniform between the single yarns constituting the multifilament.
ここで捲縮の位相とは、単糸においてS方向のトルクの捲縮とZ方向のトルクの捲縮とが交互に発現しているパターンをいう。例えばある単糸がSトルクの捲縮を呈している箇所に、別の単糸のZトルクの捲縮を配することにより、ストレッチ性は損なうことなく互いのトルクを消し合い、シボの発生を抑えることができる。捲縮の位相がマルチフィラメントを構成する単糸間で揃わないようにするためには、捲縮力を分散させる必要があり、その手段としては、サイドバイサイド型複合繊維の断面が、特に図1に示すようなダルマ型断面であれば、良好にシボの発生を防ぐことができ、より高品位の織物を得ることができる。   Here, the phase of crimp refers to a pattern in which the crimp of torque in the S direction and the crimp of torque in the Z direction are alternately expressed in a single yarn. For example, by arranging the crimp of the Z torque of another single yarn at a place where one single yarn exhibits S torque crimp, the mutual torque is erased without losing the stretch property, and the generation of wrinkles Can be suppressed. In order to prevent the crimping phases from being aligned between the single yarns constituting the multifilament, it is necessary to disperse the crimping force. As a means for this, the cross-section of the side-by-side type composite fiber is particularly shown in FIG. With the Dalma type cross section as shown, the occurrence of wrinkles can be prevented satisfactorily and a higher quality fabric can be obtained.
また、サイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントの単糸繊度は、1.1〜10デシテックスが好ましく、より好ましくは1.1〜6デシテックスである。1.1デシテックス以上とすることで、捲縮によるストレッチ性の実効を得ることができる。   Further, the single yarn fineness of the side-by-side type composite fiber filament is preferably 1.1 to 10 dtex, and more preferably 1.1 to 6 dtex. By setting it to 1.1 decitex or more, the effect of stretchability by crimping can be obtained.
また、本発明の長短複合紡績糸に用いられるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維は、20%伸張時の伸長回復率が80%以上であることが好ましい。この伸長回復率が80%以上であれば、長短複合紡績糸にした際に優れたストレッチバック性と捲縮発現性により、短繊維成分と強固に絡み合い、芯鞘型構造の形態安定性に優れ、膨らみ感、高ストレッチを有する長短複合紡績糸を得ることができ、織物としたとき良好なストッレッチ性を得ることができる。   The side-by-side type composite fiber used for the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention preferably has an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more when stretched by 20%. If this stretch recovery rate is 80% or more, the stretch-back property and the crimp development property, which are excellent when making a long and short composite spun yarn, are strongly entangled with the short fiber component and excellent in the shape stability of the core-sheath structure. A long and short composite spun yarn having a feeling of swelling and high stretch can be obtained, and good stretchability can be obtained when it is made into a woven fabric.
次に、本発明の長短複合紡績糸に用いる溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維について説明する。本発明において、該短繊維は、長短複合紡績糸の鞘部を構成するものであり、かつ溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維からなるものを用いる。溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維を用いる理由は、フィブリル化がしやすく、布帛中において良好なピーチスキンタッチ調を実現しやすいからである。   Next, solvent-spun cellulose-based short fibers used for the long and short composite spun yarns of the present invention will be described. In the present invention, the short fibers are those constituting the sheath of long / short composite spun yarns and made of solvent-spun cellulose short fibers. The reason for using solvent-spun cellulose-based short fibers is that they are easily fibrillated and a good peach skin touch tone is easily achieved in the fabric.
該溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維の断面形状は、特に限定されず、丸形であっても、多角形、H型、中空などの異形断面であってもよい。また、溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維の繊度についても特に限定されないが、紡積性を考慮すると0.6〜5デシテックスの範囲内にすることが好ましい。繊維長については各種紡績方法に応じた繊維長とするのがよいが、空気精紡を用いる場合は、その紡績原理を考慮すると25mm〜51mm程度が好適に使用でき、さらには30mm〜44mmの範囲内とするのが最も好ましい。また、該短繊維の繊度についても特に限定されないが、紡積性を考慮すると0.6〜5デシテックスが好ましい。   The cross-sectional shape of the solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber is not particularly limited, and may be round or irregularly shaped such as polygonal, H-shaped or hollow. Further, the fineness of the solvent-spun cellulose short fiber is not particularly limited, but is preferably in the range of 0.6 to 5 dtex in view of spinnability. The fiber length is preferably a fiber length corresponding to various spinning methods. However, when air spinning is used, about 25 mm to 51 mm can be preferably used in consideration of the spinning principle, and further, the range is 30 mm to 44 mm. Most preferably, it is within. Further, the fineness of the short fibers is not particularly limited, but 0.6 to 5 dtex is preferable in consideration of spinnability.
以下、本発明の長短複合紡績糸と、本発明の長短複合紡績糸を用いて得られる織編物などについてさらに詳細に説明する。   Hereinafter, the long / short composite spun yarn of the present invention and the woven / knitted fabric obtained by using the long / short composite spun yarn of the present invention will be described in more detail.
本発明の長短複合紡績糸は、芯部に前述のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントを鞘部に溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維を有してなり、さらには優れたカバリング性と軽量性および、膨らみ感を得るために、紡績糸自体が実質的に無撚りであることが重要である。   The long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention has the above-mentioned side-by-side type composite fiber filament in the core portion and the solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber in the sheath portion, and further provides excellent covering properties, light weight, and a feeling of swelling. Therefore, it is important that the spun yarn itself is substantially untwisted.
すなわち、実質的に無撚り構造糸であれば、実撚り糸のような短繊維成分による芯部のフィラメント成分への強い拘束力や、芯部のフィラメントに付与される実撚りによって、前述のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントの優れたストレッチバック性や捲縮発現性を抑制することはなく、優れたソフトストレッチ性や回復性、および膨らみ感といった風合いを十分に発揮することができる。さらには、サイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントの3次元コイル捲縮が紡績糸内部においても十分に発現するので、無撚り構造でありながら短繊維成分との絡合性が十分に得られ、しごきなどによる鞘部の剥離も少ない良好な長短複合紡績糸が得られる。   That is, if the yarn is a substantially untwisted structure yarn, the above-mentioned side-by-side type is achieved by the strong binding force to the filament component of the core portion by the short fiber component such as the actual twist yarn or the actual twist imparted to the filament of the core portion. The excellent stretch back property and crimp development property of the composite fiber filament are not suppressed, and excellent soft stretch properties, recoverability, and a feeling of swelling can be sufficiently exhibited. Further, since the three-dimensional coil crimp of the side-by-side type composite fiber filament is sufficiently expressed even inside the spun yarn, the entanglement with the short fiber component can be sufficiently obtained although it is a non-twisted structure, and the sheath due to ironing etc. A good long and short composite spun yarn with little peeling of the part can be obtained.
ここで、本発明における実質的に無撚り構造糸とは、撚りのトルクの作用による撚り戻りの発生がないか、もしくはきわめて小さい状態のものであることをいい、溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維成分の平均繊維長をLsとした場合、4.0T/Ls以下の実撚りがかかっているものまたは無撚状のものを言うものである。撚り数が4.0T/Ls以下の場合には、撚りのトルクの作用による撚り戻りの発生がないので、実質的に無撚り構造糸ということができるものである。   Here, the substantially untwisted structure yarn in the present invention means that there is no occurrence of untwisting due to the action of twisting torque, or a very small state, and the solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber component When the average fiber length is Ls, it means that a real twist of 4.0 T / Ls or less is applied or a non-twisted one. When the number of twists is 4.0 T / Ls or less, there is no occurrence of untwisting due to the action of twisting torque, so that it can be said to be a substantially untwisted structure yarn.
さらに、実撚り構造糸の場合には、芯部のフィラメントを鞘部の短繊維により十分に被覆し、また、しごきなどによる短繊維成分の脱落を防ぐために、撚り数を通常対比高めに設定する必要がある。しかし、この場合には短繊維成分による芯部のフィラメントを拘束する力が高くなり過ぎて、前述のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維の優れたストレッチバック性が失われてしまい、また、芯部のフィラメントにも実撚りが付与されるために捲縮発現性が低下し、十分な膨らみ感が得られなくなるので、本発明が目的とする優れた風合いを得る手段としてはふさわしくない。   Furthermore, in the case of a real twist structure yarn, the number of twists is set to be higher than usual in order to sufficiently cover the filament in the core with the short fibers in the sheath and prevent the short fiber components from falling off due to ironing or the like. There is a need. However, in this case, the force that restrains the filament in the core due to the short fiber component becomes too high, and the excellent stretch-back property of the above-mentioned side-by-side type composite fiber is lost. Since the real twist is imparted, the expression of crimps is lowered, and a sufficient feeling of swelling cannot be obtained. Therefore, it is not suitable as a means for obtaining the excellent texture intended by the present invention.
また、本発明の長短複合紡績糸においては、鞘部の溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維成分が長短複合紡績糸全体に占める混率は40〜85重量%の範囲にあることが肝要であり、さらには50〜70重量%の範囲にあることがより好ましい。溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維成分の混率が40重量%より小さい場合には、溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維の繊維本数が少なくなるため、十分な被覆性が得られず、逆に85重量%よりも大きい場合には、溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維成分の物性の影響が支配的となり、通常繊維との有意差が小さくなり、したがって、溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維による被覆性と前述のような優れた性能を兼ね備えた長短複合紡績糸を得るためには、溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維成分の混率が50〜70重量%の範囲にあることがより好ましい。 In the long / short composite spun yarn of the present invention, it is important that the solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber component in the sheath is in the range of 40 to 85% by weight in the entire long / short composite spun yarn. More preferably, it is in the range of -70% by weight. When the mixing ratio of the solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber component is less than 40% by weight, the number of solvent-spun cellulose-based short fibers decreases, so that sufficient coverage cannot be obtained, and conversely, it is larger than 85% by weight. In this case, the influence of the physical properties of the solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber component becomes dominant, and a significant difference from the normal fiber is reduced. Therefore, the coverage by the solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber and the excellent performance as described above are achieved. In order to obtain the combined short and long composite spun yarn, it is more preferable that the mixing ratio of the solvent-spun cellulose short fiber component is in the range of 50 to 70% by weight.
本発明の長短複合紡績糸において、鞘部に位置する溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維は、繊維軸方向に沿って1〜10μmの繊維直径で剥離分繊したフィブリルを有することが重要である。ここで、剥離分繊したフィブリルの繊維直径とは、乾燥状態のもので、繊維軸にある枝毛状の結晶繊維幅をいい、また、剥離分繊とは主にμm単位の幅で繊維軸に沿って分繊化した状態であることをいう。上述した剥離分繊したフィブリルの繊維直径は、より好ましくは、2〜5μmである。 In the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention, it is important that the solvent-spun cellulose short fibers located in the sheath have fibrils separated and separated at a fiber diameter of 1 to 10 μm along the fiber axis direction. Here, the fiber diameter of the separated fibrils refers to the width of the split-like crystal fiber in the fiber axis in the dry state, and the peeled fiber is mainly the width of the fiber axis in units of μm. It means that it is in a state of being divided along the line. More preferably, the fiber diameter of the fibrils subjected to the above-described separation and splitting is 2 to 5 μm.
本発明の長短複合紡績糸を用いて布帛とするには、従来から布帛化する方法として知られている方法で製織、編成等して行うことができ、特別なことは必要ない。注意する点としては、無撚の効果が失われてしまうような加撚作用やしごくような物理的作用を紡績工程や布帛化工程で与えることがないようにすべき点である。   In order to make a fabric using the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention, it can be carried out by weaving, knitting or the like by a method conventionally known as a method for forming a fabric, and nothing special is required. It should be noted that a twisting action and a squeezing physical action that cause the effect of untwisting to be lost should not be given in the spinning process or the cloth making process.
本発明の長短複合紡績糸により、優れた吸水性・抗ピル性を有し軽量性に優れ、従来にないハリコシの優れた風合いを有する布帛を得ることができる。   With the long and short composite spun yarns of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric having excellent water absorption and anti-pill properties, excellent lightness, and an unprecedented sharpness.
本発明により得られる該織物、編物等の布帛は、該織物・編物もしくは布帛の表面にフィブリルを有していることによりピーチスキンタッチ調を有するものである。   The fabric such as woven fabric and knitted fabric obtained by the present invention has a peach skin touch tone by having fibrils on the surface of the woven fabric, knitted fabric or fabric.
なお、本発明の効果が損なわれない範囲で、他の糸と交織、交編することももちろん可能である。   Of course, other yarns can be woven or knitted as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
次に、本発明の長短複合紡績糸を製造する方法の1例について具体的に説明する。   Next, an example of a method for producing the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention will be specifically described.
まず、前述のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメント繊維および溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維をそれぞれ準備する。それぞれの繊維の製造方法は公知の方法によればよい。次に、これら繊維を紡績し、紡績糸とする。   First, the aforementioned side-by-side type composite fiber filament fiber and solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber are prepared. Each fiber may be produced by a known method. Next, these fibers are spun into a spun yarn.
紡績方法としては、できあがる長短複合紡績糸が実質的に無撚りとなる方法であれば特に限定されないのであるが、空気流の作用により溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維成分を結束させて紡績糸を形成する汎用の空気精紡機において、適当なフィードローラと糸道ガイドなどの長繊維用の設備を介して、フィラメントを糸形成部手前で溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維束の中心部に供給することにより得る方法を好ましく用いることができる。   The spinning method is not particularly limited as long as the resulting long and short composite spun yarn is substantially non-twisted, but the spun yarn is formed by binding solvent-spun cellulose short fiber components by the action of airflow. In a general-purpose air spinning machine, a method obtained by supplying filaments to the center of a solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber bundle in front of the yarn forming unit via an appropriate feed roller and a long fiber facility such as a yarn path guide Can be preferably used.
特に好ましいのは、“ムラタ・ボルテックス・スピナー”(村田機械社製:以下、MVSと記す)を用いる方法である。空気流の作用を利用する紡績方法は、各種のものが、提案、開発、利用されているが、本発明の長短複合紡績糸を得るにはカバー率が良いことが重要であり、MVSを用いた紡績方法はこれを最も達成しうる紡績方法の一つである。   Particularly preferred is a method using “Murata Vortex Spinner” (Murata Machine Co., Ltd .: hereinafter referred to as MVS). Various spinning methods utilizing the action of airflow have been proposed, developed and used. However, in order to obtain the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention, it is important that the coverage is good, and MVS is used. The spinning method used is one of the spinning methods that can achieve this most.
また、その他の方法としては、次のような方法がある。まず、溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維成分に、好ましくは120℃以下の低い融点を有する低融点繊維をある一定比率で混ぜて、リング精紡機を用いる長短複合紡績糸の一般的な製造方法によって実撚り構造の長短複合紡績糸を得る。次に、ホットローラー、または非接触式の熱板を有するリング撚糸機にこの長短複合紡績糸を仕掛けて、精紡機とは逆撚り方向での同じ撚り数の撚りを与えて、撚りを完全に戻しながら、ホットローラー、または熱板によって前述した低融点繊維を周りの短繊維やフィラメントに融着させて無撚り長短複合紡績糸を得ることができる。該方法の場合、混ぜる低融点繊維の混率や与える撚り数およびホットローラー、または熱板の温度設定値などを得られる長短複合紡績糸の風合いを損なわないように適正に設定することが重要である。   Other methods include the following methods. First, the solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber component is mixed with a low melting point fiber having a low melting point of preferably 120 ° C. or less at a certain ratio, and is actually twisted by a general production method of long and short composite spun yarn using a ring spinning machine. A long and short composite spun yarn with a structure is obtained. Next, this long and short composite spun yarn is placed on a hot-roller or a ring twisting machine with a non-contact type hot plate, giving the same number of twists in the reverse twisting direction as the spinning machine, and the twisting is completed. While returning, the low-melting fiber mentioned above can be fused to the surrounding short fibers and filaments by a hot roller or a hot plate to obtain an untwisted long / short composite spun yarn. In the case of this method, it is important to set appropriately so as not to impair the texture of the long and short composite spun yarn that can obtain the mixing ratio of the low melting point fiber to be mixed, the number of twists to be given, the temperature setting value of the hot roller, or the hot platen. .
以下、本発明を実施例で詳細に説明する。
〔評価測定方法〕
(1)伸長回復率
自記記録装置付定速伸長型引張試験機を用い、1デシテックス当たり0.0826cNの初荷重をかけた状態で20cmのつかみの間隔に取り付け、引張速度を20cm/minとして、20%の伸度まで引き伸ばし、直ちに、同じ速度で除重した。完全に除重した後、直ちに、初荷重まで引き伸ばし、このときの回復伸びを伸長回復率とした。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.
[Evaluation measurement method]
(1) Elongation recovery rate Using a constant speed extension type tensile tester with a self-recording device, with an initial load of 0.0826 cN per decitex, attached to a 20 cm grip interval, with a tensile speed of 20 cm / min. It was stretched to 20% elongation and immediately deweighted at the same rate. Immediately after complete dewetting, the film was stretched to the initial load, and the recovery elongation at this time was defined as the elongation recovery rate.
(2)被覆性評価
評価は得られた長短複合紡績糸の側面を25倍の顕微鏡で観察し、糸長1m当たりに芯部のフィラメントが表層部から確認できる箇所の数により判断した。
判定基準は、×:10カ所以上またはヌードヤーンの発生、△:5〜9カ所、○:1〜5カ所、◎:0カ所、とする4段階評価で行った。
(2) Coverability evaluation Evaluation was made by observing the side face of the obtained long / short composite spun yarn with a 25 × microscope, and judging from the number of places where the filament of the core portion could be confirmed from the surface layer per 1 m of yarn length.
Judgment criteria were four-step evaluation: x: 10 or more places or occurrence of nude yarn, Δ: 5-9 places, ◯: 1-5 places, ◎: 0 places.
(3)ピリング性
長短複合紡績糸を経糸と緯糸の両方に使用して平織組織の織物を製織し、JIS L−1076(1992)のICI法を用い、処理時間は10時間で処理し級判別した。
(3) Pilling property Weaving a plain weave fabric using both long and short composite spun yarns for both warp and weft, using the ICI method of JIS L-1076 (1992), processing time is 10 hours, and class discrimination did.
(4)官能評価
長短複合紡績糸を経糸と緯糸の両方に使用して平織組織の織物を製織し、得られた生機をオープンソーパーで95℃でリラックス熱処理し、乾燥後、乾熱180℃で中間セットし、120℃で染色し、その後160℃の乾熱でピンテンター方式により仕上セットを行った。
(4) Sensory evaluation Weaving a plain weave fabric using both long and short composite spun yarns for both warp and weft. The resulting machine is relaxed and heat treated at 95 ° C with an open soaper, dried and dried at 180 ° C. Intermediate setting was performed, dyeing was performed at 120 ° C., and then finishing setting was performed by a pin tenter method with a dry heat of 160 ° C.
得られた布帛について、ハリコシ感、軽量感、触感、表面感(特にピーチスキンタッチ)につき10人のモニターにより官能試験を実施し、その判定結果の平均を評価結果とした。   The obtained fabric was subjected to a sensory test with 10 monitors for a sense of firmness, lightness, touch, and surface (particularly peach skin touch), and the average of the determination results was taken as the evaluation result.
なお、評価の判定基準は、×:全く感じない、△:ほとんど感じない、○:感じる、◎:強く感じるの4段階評価で行い、×=0点、△=1点、○=2点、◎=3点と点数に置き換え、その平均点を求め、0.0〜0.9点を×、1.0〜1.5点を△、1.6〜2.5点を○、2.6点以上を◎、として評価した。   The evaluation criteria are as follows: x: not felt at all, Δ: hardly felt, ◯: felt, ◎: felt strongly, x = 0 point, Δ = 1 point, ○ = 2 point, ◎ = Replaced with 3 points and averaged points, 0.0 to 0.9 points x, 1.0 to 1.5 points Δ, 1.6 to 2.5 points ○, 6 points or more were evaluated as ◎.
実施例1
固有粘度(IV)が1.40のホモPTT(ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート)と固有粘度(IV)が0.60のホモPETをそれぞれ別々に溶融し、紡糸温度275℃で24孔の複合紡糸口金から複合比(重量%)50:50で吐出し、紡糸速度1400m/分で引取り165デシテックス、24フィラメントのサイドバイサイド型複合構造未延伸糸(繊維断面は図1に示すようなダルマ型断面)を得た。さらにホットロール−熱板系延伸機(接糸長:20cm、表面粗度:3s)を用い、ホットロール温度75℃、熱板温度170℃、延伸倍率3.3倍で延伸し、次いでいったん引き取ることなく、連続して0.9倍でリラックスして巻き取り、55デシテックス、24フィラメントの延伸糸を得た。紡糸、延伸とも製糸性は良好であり、糸切れは発生しなかった。
Example 1
Homo-PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate) with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.40 and homo-PET with an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 were melted separately from a 24-hole composite spinneret at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. It is discharged at a composite ratio (% by weight) of 50:50, and is taken up at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min. It was. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate drawing machine (filing length: 20 cm, surface roughness: 3 s), the hot roll temperature is 75 ° C., the hot plate temperature is 170 ° C., and the draw ratio is 3.3 times, and then drawn once. Then, it was continuously wound relaxed at 0.9 times to obtain a drawn yarn of 55 dtex and 24 filaments. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties, and no yarn breakage occurred.
得られたサイドバイサイド型複合繊維の持性は、伸長回復率:85.5%と優れた伸長回復性を示した。   The obtained side-by-side type composite fibers had excellent elongation recovery with an elongation recovery rate of 85.5%.
長短複合紡績糸の短繊維として改質セルロース系短繊維(“リヨセル”、1.3dtex×40mm:LENZING社製)を使用し、通常の紡績方式を経て1.0g/mの太さのスライバーを作成した。   Using a modified cellulose short fiber (“Lyocell”, 1.3 dtex × 40 mm: manufactured by LENZING) as a short fiber for long and short composite spun yarn, a sliver with a thickness of 1.0 g / m is passed through a normal spinning method. Created.
得られたスライバーをMVS精紡機に仕掛け、フィラメント用のフィードローラ装置と糸道ガイドを介して、前述の中空型フィラメントをフロントトップローラー〜セカンドトップローラ間から短繊維束の幅方向中心位置に供給し、綿方式の番手で30’sの長短複合紡績糸を得た。被覆性に優れ、糸切れの発生も少なく、紡績性は良好であった。   The obtained sliver is mounted on the MVS spinning machine, and the hollow filament is supplied from the front top roller to the second top roller to the center position in the width direction of the short fiber bundle through the filament feed roller device and the yarn path guide. Thus, a 30 'long and short composite spun yarn was obtained with a cotton count. The coating property was excellent, the occurrence of yarn breakage was small, and the spinnability was good.
得られた長短複合紡績糸をヨコ糸として、タテ糸をポリエチレンテレフタレートフィラメント糸とし、通常の織機を用いて、織組織を3/1ツイルとし、織目付283g/m2 の織物を得た。得られた布帛について、各評価を行った結果、表1に示すように、被覆性は良好で、膨らみ感、ソフトストレッチ性、回復性および表面感に優れたものであった。 The obtained long and short composite spun yarn was used as a weft yarn, the warp yarn was used as a polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn, and the woven structure was set to 3/1 twill using a normal loom to obtain a woven fabric having a texture of 283 g / m 2 . As a result of each evaluation of the obtained fabric, as shown in Table 1, the covering property was good, and the swelling feeling, soft stretchability, recoverability and surface feeling were excellent.
実施例2
表1に示す混率になるよう、0.8g/mの太さのスライバーを作成し、空気精紡機のドラフト率を180倍に設定した以外には実施例1と同じ方法により、綿方式の番手で60’sの長短複合紡績糸を得た。
Example 2
A cotton swatch was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a sliver with a thickness of 0.8 g / m was prepared so as to have the mixing ratio shown in Table 1, and the draft rate of the air spinning machine was set to 180 times. A 60's long / short composite spun yarn was obtained.
また、布帛を実施例1と同じように織物を得た。得られた布帛について各評価を行った結果、被覆性は良好で、膨らみ感、ソフトストレッチ性、回復性および表面感に優れたものであった。   Further, a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result of performing each evaluation on the obtained fabric, the covering property was good, and the swelled feeling, the soft stretch property, the recoverability and the surface feeling were excellent.
実施例3
表1に示す混率になるように2.0g/mの太さのスライバーを作成し、空気精紡機のドラフト率を90倍に設定した以外には実施例1と同様の方法により、綿方式の番手で20’sの長短複合紡績糸を得た。
Example 3
A sliver with a thickness of 2.0 g / m was prepared so as to have the mixing ratio shown in Table 1, and the cotton method was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the draft rate of the air spinning machine was set to 90 times. A 20's long and short composite spun yarn was obtained with a count.
また、布帛を実施例1と同じように織物を得た。得られた布帛について各評価を行った結果、被覆性は良好で、膨らみ感、ソフトストレッチ性、回復性および表面感に優れたものであった。   Further, a woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result of performing each evaluation on the obtained fabric, the covering property was good, and the swelled feeling, the soft stretch property, the recoverability and the surface feeling were excellent.
実施例4
表1に示す混率になるよう、2.5g/mの太さのスライバーを作成し、空気精紡機のドラフト率を50倍に設定した以外には実施例1と同様の方法により、綿方式の番手で11’sの長短複合紡績糸を得た。
Example 4
A sliver having a thickness of 2.5 g / m was prepared so as to have the mixing ratio shown in Table 1, and the cotton method was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the draft rate of the air spinning machine was set to 50 times. 11's long and short composite spun yarn was obtained with a count.
得られた長短複合糸は被覆性には優れていた。サイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントの混率が低いために、官能評価では膨らみ感、ソフトストレッチ性、回復性は実施例1〜3よりは劣っていたが、表面感は優れたものであった。   The obtained long and short composite yarns were excellent in coverage. Since the mixing ratio of the side-by-side type composite fiber filament was low, the feeling of swelling, soft stretchability, and recoverability were inferior to those of Examples 1 to 3 in sensory evaluation, but the surface feeling was excellent.
実施例5
表1に示す混率になるよう、0.6g/mの太さのスライバーを作成し、空気精紡機のドラフト率を200倍に設定した以外には実施例1と同様の方法により、綿方式の番手で70’sの長短複合紡績糸を得た。
Example 5
A sliver having a thickness of 0.6 g / m was prepared so as to have the mixing ratio shown in Table 1, and the cotton method was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the draft rate of the air spinning machine was set to 200 times. A 70's long and short composite spun yarn was obtained with a count.
官能評価で優れたものが得られたが、短繊維の本数が少ないために被覆性がやや低く、ヌードヤーンの発生がやや多かった。   An excellent sensory evaluation was obtained, but the coverage was slightly low due to the small number of short fibers, and the generation of nude yarn was somewhat high.
比較例1
実施例1と同じ短繊維を用い、通常の紡績方式を経て0.35g/mの太さの粗糸を作成しリング精紡機に仕掛けた。一方、実施例1で用いたのものと同じサイドバイサイド型複合繊維をフロントトップローラー〜セカンドトップローラー間から短繊維束の中心位置に、フィラメント用のフィードローラー装置と糸道ガイドを介して供給し、リング精紡機のドラフト率を40倍、撚り数を27.8T/2.54cmに設定して、綿方式の番手で30’sの長短複合紡績糸を得た。
Comparative Example 1
Using the same short fiber as in Example 1, a roving yarn having a thickness of 0.35 g / m was prepared through a normal spinning method and mounted on a ring spinning machine. On the other hand, the same side-by-side type composite fiber as that used in Example 1 is supplied from between the front top roller to the second top roller to the center position of the short fiber bundle through a feed roller device for filament and a yarn path guide, The draft rate of the spinning machine was set to 40 times and the number of twists was set to 27.8 T / 2.54 cm, and a 30's long / short composite spun yarn was obtained with a cotton count.
得られた長短複合紡績糸は紡績性に優れたものであったが、被覆性が実施例1と対比すると劣るものであった。実撚りによるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維への拘束力が強いために、製織すると織目付296g/m2 の織物を得ることができたものの、ピリング性、ソフトストレッチ性に劣り、その他の官能評価でも良好な結果を得ることができなかった。 The obtained long and short composite spun yarn was excellent in spinnability, but its coverage was inferior to that of Example 1. Because the binding force to the side-by-side type composite fiber by real twist is strong, weaving yielded a woven fabric with a texture of 296 g / m 2 , but was inferior in pilling and soft stretch properties, and good in other sensory evaluations The result could not be obtained.
比較例2
実施例1で用いたものと同じスライバーを用い、フィラメントを供給せずにMVS精紡機に仕掛け30sの紡績糸を得た。実施例1と同じように、織目付287g/m2 の織物を得て各評価を行ったが、中心部にサイドバイサイド型複合繊維を用いていないために、膨らみ感、ソフトストレッチ性、回復性十分なソフトストレッチ性がないものであった。
Comparative Example 2
The same sliver as that used in Example 1 was used, and a 30 s spun yarn was obtained using an MVS spinning machine without supplying filaments. As in Example 1, a woven fabric with a texture of 287 g / m 2 was obtained and each evaluation was performed. However, since no side-by-side type composite fiber was used at the center, swelling feeling, soft stretchability, and sufficient recovery were achieved. There was no soft stretch.
比較例3
長短複合紡績糸の短繊維としてビスコース法レーヨン短繊維(1.7dtex×38mm)を使用した以外は、実施例1と同様にして、綿方式の番手で30’sの長短複合紡績糸を得た。得られた長短複合紡績糸は被覆性に優れ、糸切れの発生も少なく、加工後の中空部破損もなく紡績性は良好であった。
Comparative Example 3
A 30's long / short composite spun yarn is obtained with a cotton count as in Example 1, except that viscose rayon short fiber (1.7 dtex × 38 mm) is used as the short fiber of the long / short composite spun yarn. It was. The obtained long and short composite spun yarns were excellent in covering properties, produced few yarn breaks, and had good spinning properties without breakage of the hollow portions after processing.
得られた長短複合紡績糸を実施例1と同様に、織目付290g/m2 の織物を得た。得られた布帛について各評価を行った結果、膨らみ感、ソフトストレッチ性、回復性には優れたものであった優れたものであったが、ビスコース法レーヨン短繊維を用いたためにピーチスキンタッチ調の表面感が得られなかった。 A woven fabric having a texture of 290 g / m 2 was obtained from the obtained long and short composite spun yarn in the same manner as in Example 1. As a result of performing each evaluation on the obtained fabric, it was excellent in feeling of swelling, soft stretchability, and recoverability, but because of using viscose rayon short fiber, peach skin touch A tonal surface was not obtained.
図1は、本発明に用いられるサイドバイサイド型複合繊維の横断面形状の一態様例を示す概略横断面モデル図である。FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional model diagram showing an example of a cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side type composite fiber used in the present invention.
符号の説明Explanation of symbols
イ:ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート
ロ:ポリエチレンテレフタレート
B: Polytrimethylene terephthalate B: Polyethylene terephthalate

Claims (3)

  1. 一方がポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを主体としたポリエステルである2種類のポリエステル系重合体を繊維長さ方向に沿ってサイドバイサイド型に貼り合わせた複合繊維フィラメントを芯部に有し、鞘部に、繊維軸方向に沿って1〜10μmの繊維直径で剥離分繊したフィブリルを有する溶剤紡糸セルロース系短繊維を有するとともに、実質的に無撚である長短複合紡績糸であって、前記芯部のサイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントが紡績糸全体の15〜60重量%を占め、前記鞘部の溶剤紡糸セルロース繊維が紡績糸全体の40〜85重量%を占めることを特徴とする長短複合紡績糸。 The core has a composite fiber filament in which two polyester polymers, one of which is polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded side-by-side along the fiber length direction. A solvent-spun cellulosic short fiber having fibrils separated and separated with a fiber diameter of 1 to 10 μm along the direction, and a substantially short untwisted long / short composite spun yarn having a side-by-side type composite of the core part A long / short composite spun yarn , wherein fiber filaments occupy 15 to 60% by weight of the whole spun yarn, and solvent-spun cellulose fibers in the sheath part occupy 40 to 85% by weight of the whole spun yarn.
  2. 前記サイドバイサイド型複合繊維フィラメントの20%伸長時の伸長回復率が80%以上であることを特徴とする請求項1に記載の長短複合紡績糸。 The long / short composite spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the side-by-side type composite fiber filament has an elongation recovery rate of 80% or more at 20% elongation.
  3. 表面にフィブリルを有している請求項1〜2のいずれかに記載の長短複合紡績糸が用いられてなり、ピーチスキンタッチ調を有すること特徴とする布帛。 A fabric having a peach skin touch tone using the long and short composite spun yarn according to any one of claims 1 and 2 having a fibril on a surface thereof.
JP2006155942A 2006-06-05 2006-06-05 Long / short composite spun yarn and fabric comprising the same Expired - Fee Related JP5116995B2 (en)

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JP2009293136A (en) * 2008-06-02 2009-12-17 Toray Ind Inc Long-short conjugated spun yarn and seamless knitted product using the same

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JPH09143836A (en) * 1995-11-29 1997-06-03 Unitika Ltd Fibrilated core-sheath composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric
JP2000129560A (en) * 1998-10-23 2000-05-09 Unitika Ltd Production of knit fabric using filament and staple composite spun yarn
JP3465640B2 (en) * 1999-07-23 2003-11-10 東レ株式会社 Long and short composite spun yarn and woven fabric
JP3915398B2 (en) * 2000-11-17 2007-05-16 東レ株式会社 fabric
JP2003020533A (en) * 2001-07-04 2003-01-24 Toray Ind Inc Composite yarn of filament and staple fiber
JP2004084103A (en) * 2002-08-26 2004-03-18 Teijin Ltd Composite yarn
JP2004084102A (en) * 2002-08-26 2004-03-18 Teijin Ltd Polyester composite yarn
JP4196261B2 (en) * 2002-11-29 2008-12-17 東洋紡績株式会社 Stretch bulky short fiber knitted fabric and method for producing the same
JP2006077338A (en) * 2004-09-08 2006-03-23 Opelontex Co Ltd Stretchable shirting fabric

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