JPH09143836A - Fibrilated core-sheath composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain the subject soft woven or knitted fabric having peach skin- like surface feeling, excellent in crease resistance, hardly having shrinkage in washing, having good skin touch and useful also as practical clothes by covering the circumference of a polyester-based short fiber forming the core part with a cellulose-based short fiber spun using a solvent to form a fibril. SOLUTION: A core-sheath type composite yarn having a sheath part (having 0.7-3.0 mixed weight ratio (B/A) of the components A and B), formed by covering the circumference of (A) a polyester-based short fiber forming a core part with (B) a cellulose-based short fiber spun using a solvent, having <=3d single fiber denier and <=64mm average fiber length is formed into a woven fabric in which a composite spun yarn (having 0.7-3.0 blend weight ratio of the components A and B) having core-sheath structure forming the sheath part occupy >=50wt.% and the surface of the component B is fibrilated by a rotary type washer, etc.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a core-sheath composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric having fibrils, which has a peach-skin-like high-quality surface appearance, is excellent in wrinkle resistance, has less washing shrinkage, and is soft. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having a good texture and a good touch.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Recently, solvent-spun cellulosic fibers swollen in a wet state have been subjected to strong agitation and repeated friction to cause branching and separation in a fiber diameter of 1 to several μm along the fiber axis direction. Solvent-spun cellulosic fiber products that utilize the so-called fibrillation phenomenon are drawing attention and are becoming established as high-grade clothing materials. This is different from fluffing, because the ultrafine fibrillated fiber groups cause a subtle and unique shadow to appear on the surface of the clothing due to the diffuse reflection of light, giving a peach-skin-like appearance and soft and repulsive appearance. It seems that the product was accepted by the market that demanded new sensibilities because of its good texture and good touch.

Solvent-spun cellulosic fibers are produced by an epoch-making process in which pulp, which is the main raw material, is physically dissolved in an amine oxide solvent, which is the auxiliary raw material, and the cellulose molecules are made into fibers without dividing them as much as possible. In addition, compared to existing cellulosic clothing fibers, such as cotton and rayon produced by the viscose method, it has superior dry-wet strength and fiber shrinkage, and is soft, soft to the touch, and fibrillated. It is known that high-sensitivity products with a unique surface feeling can be obtained, but when used as a clothing material, the fiber properties are, after all, cellulosic fibers, so compared with synthetic fiber materials such as polyester. It has a problem that it tends to wrinkle due to poor elasticity recovery, and it easily shrinks after washing. For clothing, it is used for some high-end applications with high fashionability. Limited, there is Kirai be restricted for expansion into practical apparel fields.

[0004]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is intended to solve the above problems, and does not lose the features of solvent-spun cellulosic fibers, is soft and has a good feel, and has a peach-skin-like surface due to fibrillation. An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric for clothing, which has a feeling, is less likely to wrinkle, and has excellent dimensional stability after washing.

[0005]

In order to solve these problems, the present inventors have conducted detailed analytical studies on the mechanism of fibril formation of solvent-spun cellulosic short fibers. That is, in the process of producing solvent-spun cellulosic fibers, when the cellulose solution is extruded and cooled, the cellulose molecules crystallize and are oriented as thousands of microfibers to form fibers. Thousands of microfibers are joined by a "glue" of amorphous or non-oriented cellulose to form a fiber. When the fibers are rubbed in the wet state, the glue part is It absorbs many times its own weight of water and swells and expands. When mechanical force is applied, the glue part collapses, and fibrils may be formed by separating the cellulose molecules into crystallized microfiber fibers. It has been found that this fibril tends to occur only in the outermost layer of the fiber, and in the spun yarn, it is on the yarn shaft side. Found that occur in the concentration of the surface layer, it was accomplished the present invention.

That is, according to the present invention, the single fiber denier is 3d.
The solvent-spun cellulose short fibers (a) and polyester short fibers (b) having an average fiber length of 64 mm or less constitute the sheath portion and the core portion of the core-sheath composite spun yarn, and the mixing weight ratio thereof is 0. A core-sheath composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric comprising a core-sheath composite spun yarn satisfying the following condition: 0.7 ≦ (a) / (b) ≦ 3.0, characterized by having fibrils on its surface. It is a thing.

[0007]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The present invention is described in detail below.
The solvent-spun cellulosic short fibers (a) in the present invention are made of pulp as a raw material and a solvent capable of dissolving the pulp, for example,
A fiber produced by spinning a solution dissolved in N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide, dimethylsulfoxide, N-methylpiperidine-N-oxide, dimethylacetamide, etc. by a dry-wet spinning method. A new type of cellulosic artificial fiber that has already been recognized as a composition label "LYOCELL" and has a thickness and length suitable for spinning, that is, a single fiber denier is 3d or less, and an average fiber length is 64 mm. Refers to within. This forms the sheath portion of the composite spun yarn having a core-sheath structure in the present invention.

The single fiber denier and average fiber length of the solvent-spun cellulosic short fibers (a) in the present invention must be 3d or less and 64 mm or less. If the monofilament denier is thicker than 3d, the number of fibers constituting the spun yarn will be reduced, and draft spots and yarn breakages will occur frequently, making it difficult to spin a practical core-sheath structure yarn. When the average fiber length is longer than 64 mm, it becomes difficult to control the fibers during the spinning draft, and spots and neps are generated, and the fibers protruding from the surface of the spun yarn, so-called fluff, become long, and the yarn quality of the spun yarn is increased. And the appearance of the woven or knitted fabric after fibrillation is significantly impaired. In order to maintain the quality of the spun yarn having a core-sheath structure and maintain the aesthetic appearance of the surface appearance of the woven or knitted fabric after fibrillation, single fiber denier
2d, the average fiber length is preferably 30 to 50 mm.

The polyester short fibers (b) in the present invention include polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, and copolymers thereof, which have the thickness and length necessary for spinning into a core-sheath structure after spinning. A single fiber denier and an average fiber length must be 3d or less and 64 mm or less in order to form a core portion of the core-sheath composite spun yarn of the present invention. If the monofilament denier is thicker than 3d, the number of fiber constituents as spun yarn will decrease, and frequent occurrence of draft spots and yarn breakage will make spinning of a practical core-sheath structure yarn difficult, and the average fiber If the length is longer than 64 mm, it will be difficult to control the fibers during spinning draft, and spots or neps will be generated, and the fibers that form the core will be mixed in the sheath, or pilling will occur when protruding from the spun yarn surface. As a result, the quality of the spun yarn is degraded, and the appearance of the woven or knitted fabric after fibrillation is significantly impaired. In order to maintain the quality of the spun yarn with a core-sheath structure and to maintain the aesthetic appearance of the surface appearance of the woven or knitted fabric after fibrillation,
Single fiber denier is 1-2d, average fiber length is 30-50mm
Is most desirable.

Next, the core-sheath composite spun yarn of the present invention will be described. The core-sheath composite spun yarn according to the present invention is a composite spun yarn having a core-sheath structure in which a polyester-based short fiber (b) forming a core is coated with a solvent-spun cellulose short fiber (a) to form a sheath. Says a thread. A solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber (a) and a polyester-based short fiber (b) are mixed in a fibrous state to form an ordinary mixed-spun spun yarn, or a polyester short-fiber (b) in the sheath portion of the composite spun yarn. In the case of mixed woven fabrics, the polyester fluff appearing on the outer and outer layers of the composite spun yarn produces fibrils after weaving, that is, pilling occurs by applying strong stirring and repeated friction in a wet state. Note that the fibril fiber and pilling are mixed on the surface of the knitted fabric, which significantly impairs the appearance.

The mixing weight ratio of both fibers of the composite spun yarn must be 0.7≤ (a) / (b) ≤3.0. Solvent-spun cellulosic short fibers forming a sheath (a)
And a polyester-based short fiber (b) forming a core /
When the weight ratio for mixing the cores is less than 0.7, the sheath layer of the core-sheath composite spun yarn is reduced, and the core fibers are exposed in the outermost layer of the core-sheath composite spun yarn. Pilling occurs during the formation process, which significantly impairs the surface appearance of the woven or knitted fabric. On the other hand, when the weight ratio of the sheath / core mixture is greater than 3.0, it becomes difficult to improve the fiber properties of polyester, that is, to improve wrinkle resistance, prevent shrinkage due to washing, and maintain dimensional stability. It cannot be used for woven and knitted fabrics with clothing. From these viewpoints, the most preferable sheath / core mixture weight ratio is 1.0 ≦ (a) / (b) ≦
The range is 2.5.

The number of twists applied to the composite spun yarn of the present invention is
The number of twists that can be twisted by ordinary spinning without disturbing the spinning quality may be sufficient, and the twist coefficient K expressed by the following equation is preferably 3.0 to 4.0. K = T / Ne (however, T: number of twists / inch, Ne: cotton count)

In the composite spun yarn according to the present invention, the sliver prepared for the core portion and the sheath portion respectively are subjected to a roving process to form a roving yarn, one for the core portion and one or a plurality of rovings for the sheath portion. It is obtained by spinning and twisting the yarn on the draft part of the ring spinning machine at regular intervals. After the roving for the core is in the middle and the roving for the sheath is placed on both sides, the yarn is drafted. , It is obtained by covering the core fiber that has been stretched by the twisting action with the sheath fiber,
It can be manufactured by other known methods, and the present invention is not limited thereto. The composite spun yarn woven fabric and knitted fabric according to the present invention may be composed of only the core-sheath composite spun yarn, or may be woven or knitted with another fiber material, but in order to obtain a good fibril appearance, The weight composition ratio of the core-sheath composite spun yarn to the woven or knitted material is preferably 50% or more.

Solvent-spun cellulosic short fibers on the surface of the core-sheath composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric of the present invention are formed by branching to form so-called fibrils. To form so-called fibrils, a solvent swollen in a wet state by a usual dyeing process is used. It can be obtained by applying strong stirring and repeated rubbing to spun cellulosic fibers, but in order to generate uniform fibrils on the surface of woven and knitted fabric, it is necessary to repeat relaxation, stirring and rubbing in a wet state for a long time. It is preferable to incorporate a process dedicated to the production of fibrils using a rotary washer or a jet dyeing machine capable of working.

With the above-mentioned constitution, the present invention solves the above-mentioned problems that the conventional solvent-spun cellulosic fiber woven and knitted fabric has, that is, the characteristics of the solvent-spun cellulosic fiber are not lost and the softness is soft. A versatile woven and knitted fabric that is soft to the touch, has a highly sensitive appearance with a unique surface feeling that incorporates fibrillation properties, is less likely to wrinkle, and has excellent dimensional stability after washing, and is also versatile. Is obtained.

[0016]

According to the present invention, a composite spun yarn having a core-sheath structure in which a polyester-based short fiber (b) forming a core portion is coated with a solvent-spun cellulose short fiber (a) to form a sheath portion is woven. When a knitted fabric is formed and repeatedly agitated and rubbed in a wet state, the solvent-spun cellulose short fibers on the surface of the woven and knitted fabric are fibrillated to give a peach skin tone, and the polyester short fibers (b) of the core part are formed. ) Exhibits wrinkle resistance and dimensional stability, and while maximizing the advantages of each fiber, by complementing each other's defects, an excellent woven and knitted fabric with aesthetics and clothing functionality is obtained. Will be available.

[0017]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. The measurement and evaluation of the performance of the fabrics in the examples were carried out by the following methods. (1) Appearance After the processed fabric was rolled up, 10 m in total width was randomly extracted as a sample, the entire surface of the fabric was observed, and evaluated in the following two stages. ◯: It has a uniform peach skin tone and does not have fiber lumps, pills, or neps. ×: Poor peach skin tone, lack of uniformity, and conspicuous fiber lumps mixed as pills and neps.

(2) Feeling The feeling of touch was judged by handling, and the following three grades were relatively evaluated. ○: Soft and smooth with no roughness △: Softness and smoothness slightly lacking ×: Poor softness and smoothness, rough and rough (3) Washing shrinkage The following three-stage evaluation was performed. ○: Washing shrinkage rate is 2.5% or less △: Washing shrinkage rate is 2.5 to 4.0% ×: Washing shrinkage rate is 4.0% or more

(4) Wrinkle resistance A class is determined by a method according to AATCC-128-74.
Evaluation was made in the following three stages. ○: 3 to 4 grade or more △: 3 grade to 2 to 3 grade ×: 2 grade or less (5) Pilling The grade was judged by JIS L-1076 (ICI type method, 10 hours), and evaluated in the following 3 grades. . ○: 3rd grade or higher △: 2nd to 3rd grade ×: 2nd grade or lower

Example 1 A polyester staple fiber (1.5 d × 38 mm) produced by a conventional method was used in a ring spinning process for spinning a short cotton by a conventional method, such as blended cotton, carding, kneading, roving. A roving yarn for the core of the core-sheath composite spun yarn is made through the process, while using the "Lentzing Lyocell" 1.5d x 40mm manufactured by Lentzing Co. After that, a roving was prepared for the sheath of the core-sheath composite spun yarn. Each of these roving yarns was placed on the back roller of the ring spinning machine and then stretched, with each of the roving yarns being in contact with each roving yarn with the polyester staple roving yarn in the middle. By twisting with a twist coefficient K = 3.6,
Polyester staple is the core, solvent-spun cellulose-based short fibers are the sheath, sheath / core ratio = 65% / 35% = 1.86 (for spun yarn A), sheath / core ratio = 40% / 60% = 0. 67 (for spun yarn B), sheath / core ratio = 80% / 20% = 4.0 (for spun yarn C), English cotton count 30s (A)
Three types of core-sheath composite spun yarns (B) and (C) were obtained.

Further, the above-mentioned solvent-spun cellulosic short fiber roving is drawn by a ring spinning machine and twisted with a twist coefficient K = 3.6, and the spun yarn (D) of English cotton count 30s and the solvent Spun cellulose-based short fibers and polyester staple fibers were mixed and spun at a blending weight ratio of 65% / 35% = 1.86 in a blending cotton process, then stretched by a ring spinning machine through a conventional process, and a twist coefficient K =
A spun yarn (E) of English cotton count 30s twisted in 3.6 was obtained. The obtained five types of core-sheath composite spun yarns (A) to (E) and blended spun yarns were used as warp and weft, respectively, and a plain woven fabric having a warp density of 100 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 80 yarns / inch (A ') (B') (C ') (D') (E ') was woven.

Subsequently, desizing and scouring were carried out by a conventional method (A ')
(B '), (C'), and (E ') are dyed in two baths of a disperse dye and a reactive dye in black, which is the color whose fibril formation is the easiest to judge visually, and (D') is black only in the reactive dye. After dyeing each of them, using a jet dyeing machine for the purpose of forming fibrils, the weight ratio of the fabric weight to the water = 1:10
After operating for 60 minutes continuously after heating to 0 ℃,
The fabric was stirred and rubbed. Then, it was dried in a tumble dryer to obtain a finished fabric (A ′) and a comparative fabric (B ′) (C ′) (D ′) (E ′) according to the present invention.

The characteristics of fibril formation appearance, feeling, washing shrinkage, wrinkle resistance, and pilling property of these five types of processed fabrics were measured and evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 1.

[0024]

[Table 1]

As is clear from Table 1, the processed fabric (A ') according to the present invention has a high-quality appearance in which peach-skin-like fibrils are uniformly formed, and has a good texture and a good texture. ， It did not easily shrink even after washing, it was excellent in dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance, and it was highly versatile with excellent clothing characteristics in both sensory and functional aspects.

Example 2 (A) and (B) of English cotton count 30s prepared in Example 1
(C) Three kinds of core-sheath composite spun yarn, the solvent spun cellulose-based short fiber spun yarn (D), and the mixed spun yarn of the solvent-spun cellulose short fiber and polyester suf (E)
The diameter of the shuttle is 34 inches, 28
A circular knitted fabric (A ″) (B ″) (C ″) (D ″) (E ″) was knitted with a plain weave structure using a circular knitting machine having a gauge and a number of 102 threads.

Then, the hair-burning, desizing and scouring are carried out by a conventional method.
(A '') (B '') (C '') (E '') is dyed black with two baths of disperse dye and reactive dye, and (D '') is dyed black only with reactive dye. Using a jet dyeing machine for the purpose of fibril formation, the weight ratio of fabric weight to water = 1:10
The temperature was raised to 80 ° C. under the above conditions, and the knitted fabric was stirred and rubbed by continuously operating for 60 minutes. Then, it was dried in a tumble dryer to obtain a finished knitted fabric (A ′) and a comparative knitted fabric (B ′) (C ′) (D ′) (E ′) according to the present invention.

The characteristics of fibril formation appearance, feel, washing shrinkage, wrinkle resistance, and pilling property of these five types of finished knitted fabrics were measured and evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 2 together.

[0029]

[Table 2]

As is clear from Table 2, the finished knitted fabric (A ') according to the present invention has a high quality appearance in which peach-skin-like fibrils are evenly formed, and has a good texture and a good texture. ， It did not easily shrink even after washing, it was excellent in dimensional stability and wrinkle resistance, and it was highly versatile with excellent clothing characteristics in both sensory and functional aspects.

A polyester spinning fiber (3.5 d × 38 mm) produced by a conventional method and a solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber “Lentzing Lyocell” (3.5 d × 40 mm) manufactured by Lentzing Co., Ltd. were used for the spinning of cotton wool. I tried to make roving through blended cotton, carding, kneading, and roving in the spinning process, but draft spots occurred and roving breakage occurred frequently, and then the polyester staple roving was in the middle. After arranging a total of three yarns on the back roller of the ring spinning machine while contacting each roving yarn in the shape of a river, the polyester fabric is stretched and twisted with a twist coefficient of K = 3.6. Is the core and solvent-spun cellulose-based short fibers are the sheath. The sheath / core ratio = 65% / 35% = 1.86 English cotton count 30
Although s was tried to be spun, many yarn breakages and many yarn spots were not obtained, and a practical core-sheath composite spun yarn could not be obtained, and it could not be used for woven or knitting.

Similarly, 2.0 d × 76 mm polyester staple fibers and solvent-spun cellulosic short fibers were used, and in the ring spinning process for synthetic fiber spinning, the mixed yarn, carding, kneading, and roving were passed through the roving process. I tried to create
Draft spots and neps occur, then
With the polyester staple roving in the middle, and contacting each roving in the shape of a river, a total of three yarns were placed on the back roller of the ring spinning machine, then stretched and added with a twist coefficient K = 3.6. By twisting, the polyester staple becomes the core and the solvent-spun cellulose short fibers become the sheath, sheath / core ratio = 65%
I tried to spin English cotton count 30s adjusted to /35%=1.86, but many yarn breakages and conspicuous yarn spots and many neps occur on the yarn side face, which is a practical core-sheath composite. A spun yarn could not be obtained and could not be used for woven knitting as in the above.

[0033]

Industrial Applicability The core-sheath composite spun yarn fabric produced by the present invention does not lose the features of solvent-spun cellulosic fibers, is soft and has a good feel, and has a unique peach-skin-like surface to which fibrillating properties are applied. The woven and knitted fabric was highly versatile as it had a sensational, highly sensitive appearance, was less likely to wrinkle, and had excellent dimensional stability after washing.

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Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A sheath-core composite spun yarn comprising a solvent-spun cellulose short fiber (a) and a polyester short fiber (b) having a monofilament denier of 3 d or less and an average fiber length of 64 mm or less to form a sheath portion and a core portion. Each of them is composed, and the mixture weight ratio is 0.7 ≦
A core-sheath composite spun yarn woven or knitted fabric comprising a core-sheath composite spun yarn satisfying (a) / (b) ≤ 3.0, which has fibrils on its surface.