JP2000129560A - Production of knit fabric using filament and staple composite spun yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a method for producing a knit fabric having a surface outlook rich in a high quality feeling of a solvent-spun cellulose-based staple fiber with a fibril touch having a high quality feeling, soft property, swelling feeling, stiffness, body, resiliency, adequate drape property and water absorbing property, and also equipped with excellent stretching property, wrinkle resistance and dimensional stability of a polyester filament yarn simultaneously. SOLUTION: This method for producing a knit fabric using a filament and staple composite spun yarn is provided by arranging a polyester conjugate filament yarn A compounded by arranging polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics as parallel or a sheath/core with an eccentric core type and having a latent crimping property as a core part, and a solvent- spun cellulose-based staple fiber B having <=3 denier single fiber denier as a sheath part to obtain a filament and staple composite spun yarn having (20:80)-(50:50) weight ratio of the sheath to core and an actual twist of 4.2-6.5 twist factor, performing a knitting by using the above composite yarn and then performing a finishing treatment including a process of forming fibrils on the surface by agitating and abrading in a wet state.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a knitted fabric using long and short composite spun yarns having fibrils.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester long fiber knitted fabric is superior to other synthetic fibers and natural fibers in terms of so-called easy care, such as being less likely to wrinkle when worn and having excellent pleating properties. It is widely used mainly in the outer field, and its demand is increasing year by year. Under these circumstances, polyester filaments have been developed to imitate the feel and appearance of conventional natural and synthetic fibers, and technology development and research for imparting drapability, stretchability, etc. have been conducted. ing. In recent years, as a dominant bond between a long fiber and a short fiber, technology development using a long / short composite has been particularly actively performed. Various yarn processing methods, such as a spun yarn with a long and short composite, have been developed, but a knitted fabric having a spun yarn-like real twist structure and having an appropriate stretch property has not yet been obtained.

[0003] Conventional knitted fabrics provided with stretch properties include covering yarns made of polyurethane-based elastic yarns as a core yarn and covered with other fibers, or interlinking of spun yarns with false twisted yarns of polyester long fibers. Knitted articles and the like. However, when the above-mentioned covering yarn is used, the texture is limited due to the high degree of difficulty in knitting, the degree of difficulty in dyeing is high, and the texture of the spun yarn is sufficient in the case of cross knitting with a polyester long fiber false twisted yarn. There were drawbacks such as not being obtained and insufficient stretchability.

Recently, the solvent-spun cellulose fibers swollen in a wet state are subjected to strong agitation or repeated friction to separate and separate in a branched form with a fiber diameter of 1 to several μm along the fiber axis direction. Solvent-spun cellulose fiber products that utilize the so-called fibrillation phenomenon are attracting attention,
Established as a high-end clothing material. Unlike fluffing, the ultrafine fibrillated fiber group makes subtle and unique shadows appear on the surface of clothing due to the diffuse reflection of light. It seems that it has been accepted by the market seeking a new sensibility. However, when used as a clothing material, the fiber properties, like general cellulosic fibers, tend to wrinkle due to poor elastic recovery compared to synthetic fiber materials such as polyester, and shrink after washing. There is a problem that the applicability of the apparel is limited to some high-grade applications with high fashionability, and the applicability to the practical apparel field is limited.

[0005]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks and provides a high-grade fibril touch of a solvent-spun cellulose short fiber with a high-grade surface appearance, softness, and fullness. To provide a method for producing a knitted fabric having excellent elasticity, anti-wrinkling property, and dimensional stability, which have excellent elasticity, elasticity, resilience, moderate drapability and water absorption, and polyester filament yarn. Aim.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention has been accomplished to achieve the above-mentioned object, and a latent crimp obtained by arranging polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties in a parallel type or an eccentric core-sheath type. The polyester composite long fiber yarn having the property is disposed in the core portion, and the solvent-spun cellulose short fiber having a single fiber denier of 3 denier or less is disposed in the sheath portion, and the mixed weight ratio thereof is 20:
After knitting using a long and short composite spun yarn having a real twist of 80 to 50:50 and a twist coefficient α of 4.2 to 6.5 according to the following formula, the surface is rubbed by stirring and friction in a wet state. The present invention provides a method for producing a knitted fabric using long and short composite spun yarns, wherein a finishing process including a step of generating fibrils is performed. α = T / S ^1/2 where α: twist coefficient, S: cotton count of long and short composite spun yarn,
T: Number of twists per inch.

[0007]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below in detail.
In the present invention, the polyester composite long fiber yarn is a latently crimpable long fiber yarn obtained by laying out polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties in a parallel type or an eccentric core-sheath type and performing a composite spinning. Examples of the polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics include a combination of polyethylene terephthalates having different viscosities, and a combination of polyethylene terephthalate and a polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component with ethylene terephthalate units. Intrinsic Viscosity of Low Viscosity Components in Combination of Polyethylene Terephthalate with Different Viscosity (IV)
Is preferably in the range of 0.43 to 0.55, and the intrinsic viscosity (IV) of one of the high viscosity components is preferably in the range of 0.68 to 0.85. When the intrinsic viscosity (IV) of the low-viscosity component is less than 0.43, and when the intrinsic viscosity (IV) of the high-viscosity component is less than 0.68, the crimp developing power is poor. It is not preferable because it is small. When the intrinsic viscosity (IV) of the low-viscosity component exceeds 0.55, and when the intrinsic viscosity (IV) of the high-viscosity component exceeds 0.85, the spinning / drawing property is poor and productivity is unfavorably reduced. The difference in intrinsic viscosity (IV) between the low viscosity component and the high viscosity component is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 0.4. When the viscosity difference is less than 0.2, the appearance of crimp is poor, and stretchability cannot be obtained. When it exceeds 0.4, composite spinning becomes difficult. The intrinsic viscosity (IV) here is a value measured at 20 ° C. in a mixed solvent of phenol and tetrachloroethane in an equal weight.

In the case of a combination of polyethylene terephthalate and a polyester obtained by copolymerizing an ethylene terephthalate unit with a third component, the third component may be, for example, isophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, bisphenols, neopentyl glycol or , 6
-Cyclohexanediol and the like. The ratio of the low shrinkage component to the high shrinkage component is 40:
It is preferably in the range of 60 to 60:40. Outside this range, the crimping properties are undesirably reduced. In addition, a known compound such as a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, and an antifouling agent can be added and mixed to any of the polyester polymers as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.

The polyester composite long fiber yarn used in the present invention is a long fiber yarn having latent crimping performance, and is a yarn that exhibits three-dimensional crimping, so-called spiral crimping, when heated under no tension. The properties of the crimp developed after heating are as follows: the crimp rate after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is 50%.
% And the elastic modulus is preferably 70% or more. The crimp rate and the elastic modulus after the treatment with the boiling water for 30 minutes were measured by the following methods. Double the skein obtained by winding a polyester composite long fiber thread five times with a measuring machine, suspend it on a stand with a load of 1/6000 g / D, and further 1/1
The length a is measured by applying a load of 0 g / D. Then 1 / 6000g
The sample is allowed to stand for 30 minutes with a load of / D, and then placed in boiling water for 30 minutes while maintaining this state. Then, air-dry for 30 minutes and apply a load of 1/500 g / D to measure the length b. Next, remove the load of 1/500 g / D, change the load to 1/20 g / D, and measure the length c. In addition, 1 / 20g
Remove the load of / D, apply a load of 1/500 g / D again, and measure its length d. Then, the crimp rate and the elastic modulus are calculated by the following equations. Crimp rate = ((c−b) / c) × 100 Modulus = ((cd) / (c−b)) × 100

In the present invention, if the crimp rate after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is less than 50%, the extensibility of the fiber after the onset of crimp is poor, and thus the obtained knitted fabric has good extensibility. It becomes difficult to do. Further, if the elastic modulus after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is less than 70%, the elongation recoverability of the fiber after the onset of crimp is low, and therefore. It becomes difficult to impart good stretchability to the resulting knit.

The solvent-spun cellulosic staple fibers in the present invention are pulp as a raw material, a solvent capable of dissolving them,
For example, a fiber produced by spinning a solution dissolved in N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide, dimethylfluoxide, N-methylpiperidine-N-oxide, dimethylacetamide, or the like by a dry-wet spinning method. Is a new type of cellulosic fiber whose fiber composition is already known as "LYOCELL".

The single fiber fineness of the solvent-spun cellulose short fibers used in the present invention is 3 denier or less. The use of thick short fibers having a single fiber fineness of more than 3 deniers reduces the number of fibers constituting the spun yarn, causes draft spots and yarn breakage, and makes it difficult to spin a practical core-sheath yarn. Because. In order to maintain the quality of the core-sheath spun yarn and maintain the aesthetic appearance of the surface appearance of the knitted fabric after fibrillation, the short fiber fineness is 1-2 denier and the average fiber length is 30-
Preferably it is 50 mm.

The yarn structure of the long and short composite spun yarn of the present invention is a structure in which polyester composite long fiber yarns are relatively arranged on the core side, and solvent-spun cellulose short fibers are relatively arranged on the sheath side. The weight ratio of these core-sheaths is from 20:80 to 50:50.
Range. When the weight ratio of the polyester composite long fiber yarn disposed on the core side is less than 20%, the effect of utilizing the elasticity due to the appearance of crimp is small, and the expected stretchability of the knitted fabric cannot be obtained. If it exceeds 50%, the stretchability of the knitted fabric can be obtained, but the number of solvent-spun cellulose short fibers disposed on the sheath side decreases, and the extent of covering the polyester composite long fiber yarn decreases, resulting in wind appearance. Even if it becomes long fiber-like, productivity is not good.

A polyester composite long fiber yarn is arranged on the core side,
For the composite spun yarn having a structure in which the solvent-spun cellulose short fibers are arranged on the sheath side, a polyester composite long fiber yarn is supplied so as to overlap a solvent-spun cellulose short fiber sliver that has undergone a predetermined draft in front of the front roll. However, it is generally obtained by twisting the solvent-spun cellulosic short fiber so as to cover the polyester composite long fiber yarn. As the spinning machine in this case, any ring spinning machine such as cotton spinning, card spinning, wool spinning, and silk spinning may be used.

In the present invention, the twist of the composite spun yarn is set in the range of 4.2 to 6.5 in terms of twist coefficient. Within this range, the short fiber is wound around the long fiber and fixed, and
Waist and resilience can be imparted. The smaller the twist coefficient is, the softer the texture is obtained, and the larger the twist coefficient is, the more crisp the texture is. However, if it is too small, the short fibers may fall off, and if it is too large, the texture becomes hard.

The knitted fabric in the present invention is obtained by knitting using the above-mentioned long and short composite spun yarn. The knitted composite yarn may be knitted using only the above-mentioned long and short composite spun yarns, or may be knitted with other fiber yarns. It is preferable that the constituent weight ratio of the long and short composite spun yarns accounts for 50% or more. The structure of the knitted fabric may be any.

In the present invention, a finishing process including a step of generating fibrils on the surface by subjecting the knitted fabric to friction / rubbing treatment in a wet state is performed. This is to perform a so-called fibril in which the solvent-spun cellulose short fiber present on the surface of the long and short composite spun yarn is separated and separated in a branched form during the finishing process. The solvent-spun cellulose fibers swollen in the wet state can be obtained by rubbing or repeatedly applying friction with strong stirring, but in order to uniformly generate fibrils on the woven or knitted fabric surface without unevenness,
It is preferable to incorporate a step of using a rotary type washer or a liquid-flow type dyeing machine capable of repeatedly exerting rubbing and friction caused by stirring in a wet state for exclusive use to generate fibrils. Other dyeing finishing steps may be performed under the conditions of a normal dyeing finishing step.

[0018]

According to the present invention, a latently crimped polyester filament fiber is disposed in a core portion and a solvent-spun cellulose short fiber is disposed in a sheath portion.
The knitted fabric is composed of a long-short composite spun yarn having a core-sheath structure, and a solvent-spun cellulose-based short fiber on the surface of the knitted fabric can be easily formed into a skin-skin fibril by repeatedly stirring and rubbing in a wet state. The latent crimp-type polyester continuous fiber yarn of the part can impart appropriate stretchability and resilience, and can also obtain excellent wrinkle resistance and dimensional stability. It is possible to obtain an excellent knitted fabric having both unusual aesthetics and clothing functionality that can be utilized to the maximum.

[0019]

Next, the present invention will be described specifically with reference to examples. The measurement and evaluation of the performance of the fabric in the examples were performed by the following methods. (1) Fibril feeling The fibril feeling was relatively evaluated by visual observation and feeling, and was evaluated in four stages: ◎: very good, ：: good, Δ: normal, ×: poor. (2) Wrinkle resistance The wrinkle resistance is calculated by the Monsanto method of JIS L-1018. (3) Washing shrinkage The shrinkage was calculated by hanging and drying according to JIS L-0217103 method. (4) Stretchability The elongation rate was measured according to JIS L-1018. (Constant speed elongation method, load 500gf)

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate was used as a low-shrinkage component, and a polyester comprising 12 mol% of an isophthalic acid component, 88 mol% of a terephthalic acid component and a diol component such as diethylene glycol was used as a high-shrinkage component.
50 denier / 12 filaments of a side-by-side type latently crimped polyester composite continuous fiber yarn having a composite ratio of 50:50 by a melt composite spinning method (a crimp rate of 69.5% after being treated with boiling water for 30 minutes, with boiling water). Modulus of elasticity 8 after 30 minutes treatment
0%) and 1.3 denier 4 of a solvent-spun cellulose short fiber.
A roving system consisting of a 0 mm roving is supplied to a ring spinning machine, and a solvent-spun cellulose short fiber sliver is supplied in such a manner that a latently crimped polyester long fiber yarn is superimposed just before the front roll that has received a predetermined draft. And a twist coefficient of 4.2 (25 tons / inch) and a core-sheath ratio of 64: 3.
6. A long and short composite spun yarn of 36-count British cotton count was obtained. Using this long and short composite spun yarn, a picket sheet was knitted with a circular knitting machine having a pot diameter of 30 inches and a gauge of 28G. After the knitted fabric is scoured by a conventional method, it is dyed in two baths of a disperse dye and a reactive dye in a usual dyeing process, and then the solution is dyed at a bath ratio of 1:10 using a liquid dyeing machine. After the temperature was raised to ° C., the mixture was continuously operated for 60 minutes to generate fibrils by stirring and rubbing, and then dried with a tumble dryer to obtain a knitted long and short composite spun yarn according to the present invention.

Comparative Example 1 In Example 1, a latently crimped polyester filament fiber 5
A knitted fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that 50 denier / 12 filaments of ordinary polyester filament fibers were used instead of 0 denier / 12 filaments.

Comparative Example 2 A knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that ordinary cotton fibers were used instead of the solvent-spun cellulose short fibers. Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 obtained
Table 1 also shows the evaluation results of the knitted fabrics Nos. 1 to 2.

[0023]

[Table 1]

It is clear from Table 1 that the knitted fabric of Example 1 according to the present invention has a good fibril feeling, has a stretch property, does not easily wrinkle, and has little shrinkage in washing.
On the other hand, Comparative Example 1, in which the latently-crimped polyester continuous fiber yarn was not used, had good fibril appearance, anti-wrinkling property, and washing shrinkage, but had poor stretchability, and was poor in solvent-spun cellulose. Comparative Example 2 in which ordinary cotton fibers were used in place of the short fibers had poorer fibril appearance, wrinkle resistance, and washing shrinkage than Example 1.

[0025]

The knitted long / short composite yarn produced according to the present invention does not lose the characteristics of the solvent-spun cellulose short fiber, and has a suitable stretchability, resilience, softness and swelling. The composite spun yarn knitted fabric which is excellent in tailoring and has comfort attributable to stretchability when worn can be obtained.

 ──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continued on the front page F term (reference) 3B154 AA07 AA12 AA18 AB21 BA25 BB01 BB58 BC48 BE02 BF20 BF29 DA09 4L002 AA00 AA07 AB01 AB02 AB05 BA01 DA02 DA04 EA06 4L031 AA02 AA18 AB23 AB26 AB33 CA09 DA00 MA05 MA17 MA UA02

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A polyester fiber having latent crimpability, comprising polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties arranged in a side-by-side or eccentric core-sheath type, and having a latent crimping property. A solvent-spun cellulosic short fiber of denier or less is disposed in the sheath, and the weight ratio of the core and sheath is 20:80 to 5
0:50, and the twist coefficient K according to the following equation is 4.2 to
6. A knitting process using a long and short composite spun yarn having a real twist of 6.5, and then performing a finishing process including a step of generating fibrils on the surface by stirring and rubbing in a wet state. Manufacturing method of knitted fabric using yarn. K = T / S ^1/2 where K: twist coefficient, S: cotton count of long and short composite spun yarn,
T: Number of twists per inch.