JP2004084103A - Composite yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a composite yarn capable of simultaneously expressing spun yarn-like feeling, soft stretchability and favorable surface-varied effects( crepe, surface bulkiness ) in woven fabrics. <P>SOLUTION: The composite yarn comprises filaments as the core component and staple fibers as the sheath component, wherein the filament consists of a conjugate fiber with two polyester fibers conjugated with each other in side-by-side fashion and the crimp percent of the conjugate fiber after treated in boiling water for 20 min to express crimps is ≥2.8%. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

【００３３】
［比較例１］
貼り合せる２種類のポリエステル、横断面形状および中空率を表１に示すように変えた以外は実施例１と同じ条件、方法で、表１（比較例１項）に示す特性および物性のポリエステルコンジュゲート繊維を得た。該ポリエステルコンジュゲート繊維を複合糸芯成分元糸として、実施例１と同じ条件、方法で表１（比較例１）に示す特性の複合糸を得た。
【００３４】
該複合糸を、実施例１と同じ評価を行った結果、表１から明らかなように、本例の複合糸からの織物では、充分なストレッチ性および表面変化効果は発現しなかった。
【００３５】
［実施例２〜４］
貼り合せる２種類のポリエステル、横断面形状、中空率および繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）／フィラメント数を表１（実施例２〜４項）に示すように変えた以外は実施例１と同じ条件、方法で、表１（実施例２〜４項）に示す特性および物性のポリエステルコンジュゲート繊維を得た。該ポリエステルコンジュゲート繊維を芯成分元糸および表１（実施例２〜４項）に示す短繊維を紡績粗糸として、ドラフト率、撚数および複合比率を表１（実施例２〜４項）に示すように変えた以外は実施例１と同じ条件、方法で表１（実施例２〜４項）に示す特性の複合糸を得た。
【００３６】
該複合糸を、実施例１と同じ評価を行った結果、表１（実施例２〜４項）から明らかなように、何れの例においても、複合糸からの織物は、優れた紡績糸様風合いを保持しつつ、ソフトなストレッチ性および好ましい表面変化効果を有していた。
【００３７】
【発明の効果】
本発明の複合糸によれば、織物に紡績糸様風合い、ソフトなストレッチ性および好ましい表面変化効果（シボ、表面嵩）とを同時に発現することができる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本発明の複合糸の１実施態様を示した側面図。
【図２】本発明のコンジュゲート繊維の横断面を例示した模式図。
【図３】本発明で用いる複合糸製造の１態様を例示した略線図。
【符号の説明】
１　：　ポリエステルコンジュゲート繊維
２　：　紡績粗糸
３　：　張力調整装置
４　：　供給ローラー
５　：　トップローラー
６　：　トランペットガイド
７　：　バックローラー
８　：　エプロン
９　：　フリース
１０：　糸ガイド
１１：　スピンドル
１２：　複合糸[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a composite yarn comprising a long fiber filament as a core component and a short fiber as a sheath component. More specifically, the present invention relates to a composite yarn that simultaneously exhibits a natural spun yarn-like feel, soft stretchability, and a favorable surface change effect on a woven fabric.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, a composite yarn combining a long fiber and a short fiber is a fiber material that can simultaneously exhibit the natural feel and appearance (hereinafter referred to as a spun yarn-like texture) provided by a spun yarn and the preferable waist and rebound provided by a long fiber. Many proposals have been made. In particular, composite yarns in which polyester filament filaments are disposed in the core component have become the mainstream of filament / staple fiber composite yarns because of the excellent properties of polyester filament filaments as materials for clothing.
[0003]
However, a long-fiber / short-fiber composite yarn in which a polyester long-fiber filament is disposed in a core component has no stretch property when formed into a woven fabric, and furthermore, the woven fabric surface is extremely flat and has a preferable unevenness change (hereinafter referred to as a grain). In some cases) or a large surface change caused by fine crimping (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as surface bulk) is poor.
[0004]
Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open Nos. 9-87940 and 9-195142 disclose, as an attempt to improve the stretchability of a woven fabric from a long fiber / short fiber composite yarn, a polytrimethylene terephthalate long fiber filament as a core component. Disposed long fiber / short fiber composite yarns are disclosed. Certainly, a woven fabric from a long fiber / short fiber composite yarn in which such a polytrimethylene terephthalate long fiber filament is disposed as a core component has a stretch property of about 10 to 20% in addition to a spun yarn-like texture, The resistive stress at the time of elongation, which gives a feeling of pressure when clothing is worn, is large, and a soft stretch property with less feeling of pressure is realized, like a fabric made from long fiber / short fiber composite yarn with conventional polyurethane fiber as the core component. Not. In addition, since the core component is a straight filament filament having no crimping or the like, the woven fabric surface was flat, and only a woven fabric having poor graining effect and surface bulk effect (hereinafter collectively referred to as preferable surface change) was obtained. .
[0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention has been made based on the background of the above-mentioned conventional technology, and an object of the present invention is to provide a composite yarn that simultaneously exhibits a natural spun yarn-like texture, a soft stretch property, and a favorable surface changing effect on a woven fabric. is there.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
As a result of intensive studies, the inventor of the present invention has found that the above-mentioned problem is "a composite yarn having a long fiber filament as a core component and a short fiber as a sheath component, wherein the two types of polyester have a side-by-side type. A composite yarn, wherein the conjugate fiber is a bonded conjugate fiber and has a crimp rate of 2.8% or more after being treated in boiling water for 20 minutes to develop crimp. Found to be solved by:
[0007]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The composite yarn of the present invention is a composite yarn having a long fiber filament as a core component and short fibers as a sheath component. Such a composite yarn has a large number of short fiber free ends protruding from the surface of the yarn, and has a fiber aggregate form in which a spun yarn-like texture developing ability is maintained.
[0008]
In the composite yarn of the present invention, the long fiber filament is a conjugate fiber obtained by laminating two types of polyester in a side-by-side type (hereinafter simply referred to as a polyester conjugate fiber). The long fiber filament shrinks, and a crimp is developed by the bimetal effect, and the entire composite yarn becomes a coil shape as shown in FIG. Such a coiled form provides a soft stretch property in the fabric and a favorable surface-altering effect. At this time, if the crimp rate after the polyester conjugate fiber is treated in boiling water for 20 minutes to develop crimp (hereinafter referred to as crimp rate) is 2.8% or more, preferably 4% or more. , A soft stretch property and a favorable surface change effect are exhibited. When the crimp ratio is less than 2.8%, the stretchability of the woven fabric does not become so large that a difference from a long fiber / short fiber composite yarn having a normal polyester long fiber filament as a core component is recognized. In addition, the fabric surface is flat, and grain and surface bulk do not become apparent.
[0009]
As the polyester used for the conjugate fiber, terephthalic acid is used as a main acid component, and ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, polyester containing at least one alkylene glycol selected from tetramethylene glycol and the like as a glycol component, or the above acid component and Copolymerized polyesters having isophthalic acid or the like as a third component in addition to the glycol component can be given. In addition, known additives such as pigments, dyes, matting agents, antifouling agents, fluorescent brighteners, flame retardants, stabilizers, ultraviolet absorbers, lubricants and the like may be added to these polyesters. .
[0010]
Among these polyesters, two polyethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities, copolymerized polyesters having polyethylene terephthalate and isophthalic acid as the third component, polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate, or two polytrimethylenes having different intrinsic viscosities The bonding of terephthalate can be preferably used.
[0011]
In the case of polyethylene terephthalate, those having an intrinsic viscosity (measured using an ortho-chlorophenol solution at 35 ° C. as a solvent) in the range of 0.40 to 1.10. In addition, two of them having a difference in intrinsic viscosity in the range of 0.2 to 0.7 can be selected and used. In the case of polytrimethylene terephthalate, those having an intrinsic viscosity (measured using an ortho-chlorophenol solution at 35 ° C. as a solvent) in the range of 0.6 to 1.5 are preferable. Two of them having a difference in intrinsic viscosity in the range of 0.3 to 0.7 can be selected and used.
[0012]
The bonding cross-sectional form needs to be a side-by-side type in order to exhibit a bimetal effect. As shown in FIG. 2, the entire cross section may be any of a circular shape, a multi-lobe shape, and a hollow shape.
[0013]
The bonding ratio (weight ratio) of the two types of polyester is preferably in the range of 40/60 to 60/40, and may be set to the above range in consideration of the heat shrinkage of each polyester.
[0014]
In addition, the single fiber fineness of the conjugate fiber is preferably in the range of 1 to 5 dtex in order to balance the stiffness / repulsion and the soft feel of the woven fabric.
[0015]
The polyester conjugate fiber preferably has a strength of 2 to 5 cN / dtex and an elongation of 30 to 50% for woven fabric.
[0016]
On the other hand, the short fibers constituting the sheath component may be short fibers such as cotton, wool, and synthetic fibers which are subjected to a usual spinning process. In particular, polyester short fibers are preferably used because they have good compatibility with the polyester conjugate fiber as the core component. The fineness of these short fibers is preferably in the range of 0.8 to 6.0 dtex and the fiber length is in the range of 30 to 70 mm.
[0017]
The composite weight ratio of the long fiber filament and the short fiber (long fiber filament / short fiber) is preferably in the range of 30/70 to 70/30 in view of the balance of stretchability, waist / rebound, and soft feel of the woven fabric. . Therefore, the total fineness of each fiber may be set such that the total fineness of the composite yarn is in the range of 100 to 600 dtex and the above composite weight ratio.
[0018]
The composite yarn of the present invention can be produced by, for example, an apparatus having a process for producing a core-spun yarn (long fiber / short fiber composite yarn) as shown in FIG.
That is, a polyester conjugate fiber (1) produced according to a conventional method of conjugate spinning and drawing is prepared as a core component base yarn, and a spun roving (2) is prepared as a sheath component base yarn. The polyester conjugate fiber is sent out by a supply roller (4) via a tension adjusting device (3), and is drawn and guided by a top roller (5). On the other hand, the spun roving (2) is pulled by the back roller (7) via the trumpet guide (6), and is pulled by the top roller (5) while being gripped by the apron (8). At this time, a draft of 20 to 70 times is applied between the back roller (7) and the top roller (5) to form a fleece (9).
[0019]
Next, the polyester conjugate fiber taken up by the top roller (5) and the fleece (9) are combined, wound up by a spindle (11) via a yarn guide (10), and combined with the composite yarn (12). Become. When the two yarns are combined on the top roller (5), both yarns are run as flat as possible, and the tension applied to the polyester conjugate fiber as the core component is set higher than the tension applied to the fleece as the sheath component. In this case, a composite yarn having a preferable core-sheath structure can be obtained.
[0020]
When the number of twists of the composite yarn is in the range of 300 to 800 turns / m, a more preferable surface changing effect can be obtained.
[0021]
The composite yarn thus obtained, when formed into a woven fabric, exhibits soft stretchability and a favorable surface changing effect together with a natural spun yarn-like texture. The composite yarn of the present invention may be used for knitted fabric.
[0022]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. Each item in the examples was measured by the following method.
[0023]
(1) Intrinsic viscosity Orthochlorophenol was used as a solvent and measured at 35 ° C.
[0024]
(2) Lamination ratio Cut the polyester conjugate fiber in any fiber cross-sectional direction, take a photograph of the fiber cross-section at a magnification of 750 times with a commercially available microscope, and cross the two types of polyester cross-section for all the constituent single-thread cross-sections. The area occupied by each surface was measured, and the ratio was defined as the bonding ratio (average value for all single yarn cross sections).
[0025]
(3) Hollowness ratio The hollow area (A) and the area (B) surrounding the cross section of each single yarn cross section were measured by the micrograph of the polyester conjugate fiber cross section micrograph of the preceding paragraph, and calculated by the following formula. The average value for the cross section was defined as the hollow ratio (%).
Hollow ratio (%) = A / B × 100
[0026]
(4) Crimp Rate A conjugate fiber sample is tensioned at 0.044 cN / dtex (50 mg / denier) and wound around a scab frame to form a scab of about 3300 dtex. After the cassette is made, a load of 0.00177 cN / dtex + 0.177 cN / dtex (2 mg / denier + 200 mg / denier) is applied to one end of the cassette, and the length L ₀ (cm) after 1 minute is measured. Next, in a state where the load of 0.177 cN / dtex (200 mg / denier) is removed, treatment is performed in boiling water at 100 ° C. for 20 minutes. After the boiling water treatment, the load of 0.00177 cN / dtex (2 mg / denier) is removed, and the mixture is naturally dried in a free state for 24 hours. A load of 0.00177 cN / dtex + 0.177 cN / dtex (2 mg / denier + 200 mg / denier) is again applied to the naturally dried sample, and the length L ₁ (cm) after one minute has elapsed is measured. Then removed load of 0.177cN / dtex (200mg / denier), after a lapse of 1 minute length _{L 2} was measured to calculate the shrinkage wound in the following formula. This measurement was performed 10 times, and the result was represented by the average value.
Total crimp rate TC (%) = [(L ₁ −L ₂ ) / L ₀ ] × 100
[0027]
(5) Strength and elongation A fiber sample was subjected to a tensile test in accordance with the method of JIS L1013 8.5.1, and the strength and elongation at break were measured.
[0028]
(6) Texture evaluation of woven fabric The composite yarn sample was twisted at 600 turns / m, and a woven fabric having a twill weave structure was formed using warp yarns and weft yarns. Next, refining / relaxation treatment at 80 ° C, preset dry heat treatment at 160 ° C for 45 seconds, 10% alkali weight reduction treatment, dyeing at 120 ° C for 30 minutes, natural drying, and final drying at 160 ° C for 45 seconds The fabric was set to obtain a texture evaluation fabric. An inspector sensory-tested the stretchability and surface change effect (texture, surface bulk) of the woven fabric, and rated the following.
Stretch softness level 1: Holds both ends of the fabric with both hands, and when pulled, has little resistance and stretches smoothly.
Level 2: When holding both ends of the fabric with both hands and pulling, a slight resistance is felt.
Level 3: There is strong resistance when holding both ends of the fabric with both hands and pulling.
Surface change effect (texture, surface bulk)
Level 1: Uniform and fine unevenness (texture) and bulk are recognized on the surface. The surface has a soft feel.
Level 2: The grain and bulk of the surface are felt somewhat coarse. The softness of the surface is slightly inferior to level 1.
Level 3: A flat appearance with almost no grain and bulk on the surface. The surface has a flat feel.
(7) Stretch rate The fabric for texture evaluation obtained in the preceding section (6) was subjected to an extension test according to JIS L1096 8.14.1b (Method B), and the extension rate (%) was calculated.
[0029]
[Example 1]
A polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.43 and a polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.82 were laminated at a weight ratio of 50/50 to a side-by-side type in a conventional composite spinning process to obtain a medium as shown in FIG. A conjugate fiber having a true circular cross section was prepared and prepared as a composite yarn core component original yarn. The properties and physical properties of the conjugate fiber were as shown in Table 1. On the other hand, polyethylene terephthalate short fibers having the properties shown in Table 1 were prepared as spun roving.
[0030]
The polyethylene terephthalate staple fiber was used as a spun roving yarn, drafted 40 times with a core spun yarn producing apparatus shown in FIG. 3 to form a fleece, and composited with the polyester conjugate fiber on a top roller. Was obtained.
[0031]
The composite yarn was formed into a woven fabric by the above-mentioned method (section (6)), and the stretch ratio was measured, and the softness of the stretch and the surface change effect (texture, surface bulk) were evaluated. As is clear from Table 1, the woven fabric from the composite yarn of this example had a soft stretch property and a favorable surface changing effect while maintaining an excellent spun yarn-like texture.
[0032]
[Table 1]

[0033]
[Comparative Example 1]
Polyester conjugate having properties and physical properties shown in Table 1 (Comparative Example 1) under the same conditions and method as in Example 1 except that the two kinds of polyester to be bonded, the cross-sectional shape and the hollow ratio were changed as shown in Table 1. A gate fiber was obtained. Using this polyester conjugate fiber as a composite yarn core component base yarn, a composite yarn having the characteristics shown in Table 1 (Comparative Example 1) was obtained under the same conditions and method as in Example 1.
[0034]
The composite yarn was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. As is clear from Table 1, the woven fabric from the composite yarn of this example did not exhibit sufficient stretchability and surface changing effect.
[0035]
[Examples 2 to 4]
The same conditions and method as in Example 1 except that the two kinds of polyester to be bonded, the cross-sectional shape, the hollow ratio and the fineness (dtex) / the number of filaments were changed as shown in Table 1 (Examples 2 to 4), Polyester conjugate fibers having the properties and physical properties shown in Table 1 (Examples 2 to 4) were obtained. Using the polyester conjugate fiber as the core component base yarn and the short fiber shown in Table 1 (Examples 2 to 4) as a spinning roving, the draft rate, number of twists, and composite ratio are shown in Table 1 (Examples 2 to 4). The composite yarns having the characteristics shown in Table 1 (Examples 2 to 4) were obtained under the same conditions and method as in Example 1 except that they were changed as shown in Table 1.
[0036]
As a result of performing the same evaluation on the composite yarn as in Example 1, as is clear from Table 1 (Examples 2 to 4), in any of the examples, the woven fabric from the composite yarn was an excellent spun yarn. It had a soft stretch property and a favorable surface changing effect while maintaining the texture.
[0037]
【The invention's effect】
ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to the composite yarn of this invention, a spun yarn-like feeling, a soft stretch property, and a favorable surface change effect (texture, surface bulk) can be simultaneously exhibited on the woven fabric.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a side view showing one embodiment of a composite yarn of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is a schematic view illustrating a cross section of the conjugate fiber of the present invention.
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram illustrating one embodiment of production of a composite yarn used in the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
1: polyester conjugate fiber 2: spun roving yarn 3: tension adjusting device 4: supply roller 5: top roller 6: trumpet guide 7: back roller 8: apron 9: fleece 10: yarn guide 11: spindle 12: composite yarn

Claims (5)

A composite yarn having a long fiber filament as a core component and a short fiber as a sheath component, wherein the long fiber filament is a conjugate fiber in which two kinds of polyesters are bonded in a side-by-side type, and is treated in boiling water for 20 minutes. A composite yarn, wherein the conjugate fiber has a crimp rate of 2.8% or more after the crimping is developed. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the two polyesters are polyethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the two polyesters are polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate and isophthalic acid as a third component. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the two polyesters are polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the two polyesters are polytrimethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities.

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