JP4123646B2 - Polyester fiber yarn and fabric - Google Patents

Polyester fiber yarn and fabric Download PDF

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JP4123646B2
JP4123646B2 JP21346199A JP21346199A JP4123646B2 JP 4123646 B2 JP4123646 B2 JP 4123646B2 JP 21346199 A JP21346199 A JP 21346199A JP 21346199 A JP21346199 A JP 21346199A JP 4123646 B2 JP4123646 B2 JP 4123646B2
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yarn
polyester fiber
crimp
fabric
dtex
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JP2001040537A (en
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明 木代
隆志 越智
鍋島  敬太郎
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東レ株式会社
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Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarn capable of imparting stretch properties to a fabric with excellent crimp-producing ability, and a fabric using the same.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Synthetic fiber fabrics are widely used because they are superior to natural fiber fabrics and semi-synthetic fiber fabrics in terms of durability and easy care. However, compared with natural fiber cloth and semi-synthetic fiber cloth, since it is inferior in aesthetics and texture, various improvements have been added. One direction of this is imitation of natural fibers and semi-synthetic fibers. On the other hand, in recent years, improvements in the appearance and texture have been actively made aiming at the unique direction of synthetic fibers that are completely different from natural fibers and semi-synthetic fibers. In this movement, natural fibers and semi-synthetic fibers are not good, but various studies have been conducted to expand the field where synthetic fibers are good. One of the big things is the characteristics of light weight and stretch.
[0003]
Conventionally, there is a method of using a hollow cross-section fiber having a hollow portion in a single yarn for imparting lightness. However, in order to achieve a sufficiently high hollow ratio in single component spinning, there are great difficulties in the spinning technology such as the design of the base and cooling of the spun yarn, and the method of eluting the core components using core-sheath composite spinning greatly increases the cost. There was a problem that would become.
[0004]
On the other hand, with regard to imparting stretch properties, for example, there is conventionally a method of imparting stretch properties by mixing polyurethane fibers in a woven fabric. However, polyurethane fibers have a hard texture as a characteristic property of polyurethane, and there is a problem in that the texture and drape of the fabric is reduced. Furthermore, polyurethane fibers are difficult to dye with polyester dyes, and even when used in combination with polyester fibers, the dyeing process is complicated and it is difficult to dye in a desired color.
[0005]
In order to solve this problem, for example, as disclosed in JP-A No. 11-43835, a latently crimpable polyester fiber yarn in which polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) having different shrinkage characteristics is combined in a side-by-side manner. After weaving with twisted yarn added to the strip, a wet structure is developed in the length direction of the central portion of the yarn by wet heat relaxation treatment at 100 ° C. or higher (FIG. 1), thereby providing lightness and stretchability. Is described. Certainly, this method can provide a lightweight and stretchable material that can be satisfied to some extent, but there is a problem that the stretch is difficult to develop due to the high-order processing step and repeated use of the fabric or is easy to break. This was attributed to the fact that the crimp development property of the latent crimp development polyester fiber yarn under the fabric restraint and the crimp retention ratio against repeated elongation were low.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention is a latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarn capable of improving the crimp expression ability under fabric restraint, which has been a problem in the past, and improving the crimp retention ratio against repeated elongation, and obtaining a fabric excellent in stretch properties. The present invention provides a fabric that uses a strip and is more excellent in stretchability than conventional ones.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The above object is a yarn composed of at least two types of latently crimpable polyester fibers composed of polymers, wherein Worcester spots are 2.0% or less and the maximum value of shrinkage stress is 0.25 cN / dtex or more, E0Is over 30%, E3.5The yarn comprising the latently crimpable polyester fiber satisfying 5% or more at the same time is twisted and has the ability to develop a hollow structure in the length direction of the central portion of the yarn by heat treatment. Achieved by polyester fiber yarns.
(However, E0: Crimp elongation rate when heat-treated without load
E3.5: 3.5 × 10-3Crimp elongation after heat treatment under cN / dtex load
Crimp elongation (%) = [(L1-L2) / L1] X 100%
L1: After skeining the yarn, the skein is treated with boiling water for 15 minutes, then further subjected to a dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. for 15 minutes, and then 180 × 10-3Skein length when cN / dtex load is suspended
L2: L1After measurement, the suspended load is 180 × 10-3cN / dtex to 0.9 × 10-3skein length when replaced with cN / dtex)
[0008]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Conventionally, as described in JP-A-11-43835, JP-A-6-322661, etc., the latent crimpable polyester fiber yarn is heat-treated in a state close to load-free, and the crimping property there is obtained. This did not necessarily reflect the crimp characteristics under fabric restraint. The present invention pays attention to the fact that the ability to develop crimps under restraint is important in the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber, and adopts a value called crimp extension rate obtained by changing the processing load as an index thereof. Is. The crimp elongation rate is an index indicating the degree of crimp expression, measured by the method of FIG. 2, and defined by the following formula.
[0009]
Crimp elongation (%) = [(L1-L2) / L1] X 100%
L1: After skeining the yarn, the skein is treated with boiling water for 15 minutes, then further subjected to a 180 ° C. dry heat treatment for 15 minutes, and then 180 × 10-3Skein length L when hanging cN / dtex load2: L1After measurement, the suspended load is 180 × 10-3cN / dtex to 0.9 × 10-3Skein length when replaced with cN / dtex
E0: Crimp elongation rate when heat-treated without load
E3.5: 3.5 × 10-3Crimp elongation after heat treatment under cN / dtex load
That is, E0Is an index representing the degree of occurrence of crimp in a load-free manner, and corresponds to the conventional number of crimps. Meanwhile, E3.5Is an index indicating the degree of crimp expression under restraint, and indicates how much crimp expression ability can be exhibited under fabric restraint.
[0010]
E0Is 30% or more, preferably 40% or more, more preferably 60% or more.
[0011]
In addition, in order to express sufficient crimp in the fabric and obtain stretch properties,3.5Is 5% or more. E3.5Is preferably 10% or more, more preferably 20% or more.
[0012]
In addition, the intrinsic viscosity difference of PET as described in JP-A-11-43835, or polyester side-by-side type composite fiber yarn of homo-PET and high-shrinkage copolymerized PET as described in JP-A-5-295634 is E.3.5Is as low as about 0.5%, and the crimping ability under fabric restraint is low.
[0013]
In addition, the shrinkage stress is also important for overcoming the fabric restraint and causing crimps, and the maximum value of the stress is 0.25 cN / dtex (0.28 gf / d) or more. Preferably, the maximum value of the stress is 0.30 cN / dtex (0.34 gf / d) or more. Moreover, it is preferable that the temperature which shows the maximum of shrinkage stress is 110 degreeC or more.
[0014]
In addition, it is important that the latent crimp-generating polyester fiber yarn used in the present invention is not stretched, but this can be evaluated by a crimp retention ratio against repeated elongation. In the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarn used in the present invention, the crimp retention is preferably 90% or more. The crimp retention is more preferably 95% or more.
[0015]
From the standpoint of preventing stained spots on the fabric, the Worcester spots (hereinafter abbreviated as U%) of the latently crimpable polyester fiber yarn used in the present invention is 2.0% or less, preferably 1.0% or less. is there.
[0016]
The elongation of the latently crimpable polyester fiber yarn used in the present invention is preferably 20 to 50% from the viewpoint of handleability of the yarn. More preferably, it is 25 to 35%. Moreover, when the handleability after fabric formation is considered, it is preferable that the linear shrinkage rate of the fiber yarn is 20% or less.
[0017]
Polyester in the present invention is terephthalic acid as an acidic component, PET using ethylene diol as a diol component, terephthalic acid as an acidic component, polypropylene terephthalate using 1,3-propanediol as a diol component (hereinafter abbreviated as PPT), Examples thereof include polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) using terephthalic acid as the acidic component and 1,4-butanediol as the diol component. Further, a part of the diol component and the acid component may be substituted with other copolymerizable components within a range of 15 mol% or less. These may also contain other polymers, matting agents, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments and other additives.
[0018]
The latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber used in the present invention is composed of two types of polymers, and the two types of polymers are preferably in the form of a side-by-side type composite or an eccentric core-sheath type composite.
[0019]
In the case of a side-by-side type composite fiber, if the melt viscosity ratio of the two types of polymers is in the range of 1.00 to 2.00, a simple parallel merging composite die (FIG. 3 (a)) can be used. vol. 54, P-173 (1998) as described, it is possible to avoid the problem of spinnability deterioration due to polymer bending at the die. Such a combination of melt viscosities has the advantage that operability can be greatly improved. Preferably, the melt viscosity ratio is 1.00 to 1.43. Here, the melt viscosity ratio is defined by the following formula. The measurement conditions for melt viscosity are the same as normal melt spinning conditions for polyester, with a temperature of 280 ° C. and a strain rate of 6080 sec.-1It was.
[0020]
Melt viscosity ratio = V1 / V2
V1: Melt viscosity value (poise) of a polymer having a relatively large melt viscosity
V2: Melt viscosity value (poise) of a polymer having a relatively low melt viscosity
On the other hand, in the case of an eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber, it is preferable that the sheath polymer and the core polymer have an alkali weight loss rate ratio of 3 times or more and that the sheath polymer is fast. This is because when the sheath polymer is rapidly reduced in alkali, the composite form of the fiber can be changed from the eccentric core sheath to the side-by-side by the reduction in alkali. For this reason, it becomes possible to control the crimp expression ability of the fiber by reducing the alkali. In other words, even if the raw yarn is the same, it is possible to design various fabrics by higher processing. That is, it has an advantage that quick response such as correspondence to a small amount of other varieties, complaints, and replacement of products becomes easy.
[0021]
The alkali weight loss rate can be evaluated by preparing a cylindrical yarn of a fiber yarn produced by the usual two-step method of low speed spinning and drawing, performing alkali weight loss by a conventional method, and calculating the weight loss rate with respect to the processing time. .
[0022]
  The polymer combination of the composite fiber is not particularly limited, but PET and PPT'sA combination is preferable from the viewpoint of versatility. In addition, when the combination of PET and PPT is used, the crimped coil diameter is smaller than in the case of the combination of PET and PET or PET and PBT, and the crimp phase is easily aligned and the quality is excellent. At this time, PP inside the crimpT isBe placedIt is important that thisImproved stretchabilityTo do.
[0023]
  In addition, MeltPP with large difference in melt viscosityTThe combination used is preferable because the stretch properties are dramatically improved.
[0024]
In the present invention, the fiber cross-sectional shape is not limited in any way, but for example, a cross-sectional shape as shown in FIG. 4 is conceivable. Among these, the semi-circular side-by-side type with a round cross-section has a good balance between crimp development and texture, but it has a triangular cross-section when aiming for a dry texture, and a hollow side-by-side type when aiming for light weight and heat insulation. The cross-sectional shape can be appropriately selected according to the above.
[0025]
Also, the composite ratio of the polymer is not limited at all, but it is preferably 3/7 to 7/3 from the viewpoint of crimp expression. More preferably, it is 4/6 to 6/4, and further preferably 5/5.
[0026]
  Although the latent crimp expression polyester fiber yarn used by this invention is not limited at all to a manufacturing method, For example, it can obtain by the following methods. That is, P having a melt viscosity of about 400 poise.PSpinning T and PET having a melt viscosity ratio in the range of 1.00 to 2.00 as a side bi-sad type composite fiber or an eccentric core-sheath type composite fiber, and then drawing the same, the latent crimp development of the present invention Polyester fibers can be obtained. In the case of adopting a side-by-side type composite, the melt viscosity ratio is in the range of 1.00 to 1.43 from the viewpoint of suppressing polymer bending and improving operability by uniformizing the discharge polymer flow rate ratio from the mouthpiece hole. It is preferable to do.
[0027]
  PPConsidering that the melting point of T is about 30 ° C. lower than that of PET, the spinning temperature is preferably 255 to 280 ° C., which is lower than the spinning temperature of ordinary PET.
[0028]
  Also, if the spinning speed is 2000 m / min or less, PET and P in the drawn fiberPDifference in shrinkage rate of T is large, which is preferable from the viewpoint of crimping.
[0029]
In particular, high-speed spun fibers exhibit good crimping just by spinning, and mechanical properties are sufficient, but in the case of low-speed spun fibers, stretching is preferably performed. At this time, the draw ratio is preferably determined so that the crimping ability can be sufficiently exhibited. In the case of an undrawn fiber having a spinning speed of about 1500 m / min, the draw ratio is preferably about 2.50 to 3.20. The stretching temperature is preferably 60 to 100 ° C., and the heat setting temperature is preferably 100 to 140 ° C. from the viewpoints of yarn production and crimp expression.
[0030]
In the present invention, after forming the fabric, heat treatment at a temperature equal to or higher than the glass transition temperature is performed, and the latent crimped polyester fiber yarn is formed as a hollow structure yarn in which a hollow structure is expressed in the length direction of the central portion of the yarn. Is the point. Thereby, lightweight property and stretch property can be expressed effectively. Furthermore, by expressing the hollow structure, it is possible to obtain a unique swell and repulsion feeling different from those caused by differences in yarn length such as different shrinkage mixed yarn and composite false twist yarn. In order to effectively develop the hollow structure, it is necessary to align the phases of crimps generated in the latently crimpable polyester fiber yarn as much as possible during the heat treatment after forming the fabric. For this purpose, it is necessary to apply twisted yarns in order to keep the aggregate form of the multifilaments as much as possible. The number of twisted yarns varies depending on the case, but when the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarn is used alone, it is preferable to apply a twist with a twist coefficient K of 3000 to 30000. At this time, in the conventional crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarn by the combination of PET and PET, the ability to develop crimp under restraint (E3.5) Is low, the stretchability tends to be excessively lowered particularly when the K is from 10,000 or more to medium twist. However, since the latent crimp-generating polyester fiber yarn used in the present invention has excellent crimp-generating ability under restraint, it is superior to conventional products in that sufficient stretchability can be obtained even with strong twisting. one of. When mixed with other yarns, sweet twisting may be used.
Here, the twist coefficient K is defined by the following equation.
[0031]
K = T x (fineness x 0.9)1/2
T: Number of twists per meter (T / m)
Fineness: dtex
In the present invention, the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarn can be used alone, but when mixed with a low-shrinkage fiber yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less, in addition to the stretch property, Further, it is preferable because it can add a larger swell and soft feeling. Latent crimped polyester fiber yarns are hollow structure yarns that are coiled in the fabric, which may give a slightly stiff impression as a touch, but soft low-shrink fibers When wound around a latently crimped polyester fiber yarn that has become a hollow structure yarn, it acts as a cushion, improving the soft feeling, and increasing the yarn diameter as a multifilament, improving the feeling of swelling It is preferable. For this reason, it is advantageous that the low shrinkage fiber yarn has a lower boiling water shrinkage rate, preferably the boiling water shrinkage rate is 10% or less, more preferably 4% or less, and even more preferably 0% or less. Further, it is advantageous that the initial tensile resistance of the low shrinkage fiber yarn is low, and it is preferably 50 cN / dtex or less. Furthermore, since the softness of the low-shrinkable fiber is improved when the single yarn fineness is thin, the single yarn fineness is preferably 2.5 dtex or less, more preferably 1.0 dtex or less. In order to adopt the above-described yarn structure of the blended yarn, it is preferable that twist is also added to the blended yarn consisting of the latently crimped polyester fiber yarn and the low-shrinkage fiber yarn.
[0032]
The present invention can be suitably used for shirts, blouses, pants, skirts, suits, blousons and the like.
[0033]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. In addition, the measuring method in an Example used the following method.
A. Crimp elongation (Figure 2)
Crimp elongation (%) = [(L1-L2) / L1] X 100%
L1: After skeining the yarn, the skein is treated with boiling water for 15 minutes, then further subjected to a dry heat treatment at 180 ° C. for 15 minutes, and then 180 × 10-3Skein length when cN / dtex load is suspended
L2: L1After measurement, the suspended load is 180 × 10-3cN / dtex (0.2 gf / d) to 0.9 × 10-3Skein length when replaced with cN / dtex (1 mgf / d)
E0: Crimp elongation rate when heat-treated without load
E3.5: 3.5 × 10-3Crimp elongation when heat-treated under cN / dtex (4 mgf / d) load
B. Crimp retention for repeated stretching
First, the crimp elongation rate is measured. Set this value to P1And Next, this skein performs the following process. 90x10-3A load of cN / dtex (0.1 gf / d) is suspended for 1 minute, and then the load is removed and left for 3 minutes without load. This is repeated as 10 cycles. Then again 0.9 × 10-3Skein length L when hanging cN / dtex loadThreeIs measured, and the crimp extension rate P after repeated extension is2Calculate Then, the crimp retention rate is calculated by the following formula.
[0034]
  P2(%) = [(L1-L3) / L1] × 100% crimp retention = [P2/ P1] X 100%
C. Shrinkage stress
  It measured with the temperature increase rate of 150 degree-C / min with the Kanebo engineering thermal stress measuring device. The sample was a 10 cm × 2 loop, and the initial tension was fineness (decitex) × 0.9 × (1/30) gf.
D. Elongation
  The load-elongation curve was obtained under the conditions shown in JIS L1013 with an initial sample length = 50 mm and a pulling speed = 50 mm / min. Elongation was divided by the initial sample length to determine elongation.
E. Melt viscosity
  Measurement was performed in a nitrogen atmosphere using a Capillograph 1B manufactured by Toyo Seiki Co., Ltd. Measurement temperature 280 ° C, strain rate 6080sec-1Was measured three times, and the average value was taken as the melt viscosity.
F. Initial tensile resistance
  Measurement was performed according to JIS L1013.
G. Alkaline weight loss rate
  After spinning the test polymer at a spinning temperature of polymer melting point + 30 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1500 m / min to obtain an undrawn fiber yarn, a draw ratio at which the drawn fiber yarn elongation becomes 40% and a draw temperature of 90 ° C. Then, a drawing-heat treatment is performed at a heat setting temperature of 130 ° C. to obtain a drawn fiber yarn of 56 dtex, 12 filaments. Then, a tube knitting is produced and alkali weight reduction is performed by a conventional method. The weight loss rate with respect to the alkali treatment time at this time is obtained, and the alkali weight loss rate (weight loss rate per unit time) is calculated.
H. Boiling water shrinkage
  Boiling water shrinkage rate (%) = [(L0'-L1’) / L0']] × 100%
  L0′: Original length of skein measured by skeining the yarn and measuring under an initial load of 0.09 cN / dtex
  L1': L0The skeins measured for 'were treated in boiling water for 15 minutes in a substantially load-free state, and after air drying, the skein length under an initial load of 0.09 cN / dtex
I. Linear shrinkage
  Linear shrinkage (%) = [(L0-L1‘’) / L0] X 100%
  L0: Original length of skein measured after skeining yarn and under initial load of 0.18 cN / dtex
  L1‘’ : L0When the skein was measured for 15 minutes in boiling water in a substantially load-free state, and after air drying, the skein length under an initial load of 0.18 cN / dtex, ie, when the crimp was fully extended by a relatively heavy load Is the boiling water shrinkage of the fiber.
J. et al. Wooster spot (U%)
  The measurement was performed in the normal mode while feeding the yarn at a speed of 200 m / min, using a USTER TESTER 1 Model C manufactured by Zellweger.
K. Texture evaluation
  The woven fabrics obtained in Examples and Comparative Examples were subjected to sensory evaluation at 1 to 5 grades with respect to swelling, softness, rebound, stretchability, lightness, and dyed spots. Grade 3 or higher was accepted.
Example1
  Homo PPT containing no titanium oxide with a melt viscosity of 410 poise and homo PET containing 0.03 wt% of titanium oxide with a melt viscosity of 370 poise were separately melted at 260 ° C. and 285 ° C., respectively, and a stainless steel nonwoven fabric filter having an absolute filtration diameter of 15 μm was used. After performing filtration separately, it was discharged at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. as a side-by-side type composite fiber (FIG. 4B) having a composite ratio of 1: 1 from a parallel merged composite spinneret having 12 holes (FIG. 3A). . The melt viscosity ratio at this time was 1.11. Winding 168 dtex, 12 filaments of unstretched fiber yarn at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min, and then using a drawing machine having a hot roller, the temperature of the first hot roller is 70 ° C. and the temperature of the second hot roller is 130 ° C. The film was stretched at a stretch ratio of 3.00. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties and no yarn breakage. The physical property values thereof are shown in Table 1. PPT entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp expression ability. E0The coil diameter of the crimp produced by the heat treatment for the measurement was very fine, and the phases were aligned, so that the quality was very high.
Example2
  Homo PPT containing no titanium oxide with a melt viscosity of 3000 poise and homo-PET containing 0.03 wt% of titanium oxide with a melt viscosity of 370 poise were separately melted at 280 ° C. and 285 ° C., respectively, and a stainless steel nonwoven fabric filter having an absolute filtration diameter of 15 μm was used. After separately filtering, the side-by-side type composite fiber (FIG. 4 (b)) having a composite ratio of 1: 1 from the insertion type composite spinneret (FIG. 3 (b)) described in JP-A-9-157941 having 12 holes. ) At a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. Winding unstretched fiber yarn of 190 dtex, 12 filaments at a spinning speed of 1350 m / min, and then using a drawing machine having a hot roller, the temperature of the first hot roller is 80 ° C. and the temperature of the second hot roller is 130 ° C. The film was stretched at a stretch ratio of 3.40. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties and no yarn breakage. The physical property values thereof are shown in Table 1. The high viscosity PPT entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp expression ability. E0The diameter of the crimped coil that appears due to heat treatment for the measurement of the material is very fine, and the phase is aligned, resulting in a very high quality.
Example3
  Example except that the side-by-side type composite was changed to the eccentric core-sheath type composite (FIG. 4 (h)), and the polymer was changed as follows.1The melt spinning was carried out under the same conditions as above. At this time, PET containing 0.40 wt% of titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 400 poise was used as the sheath polymer, and PPT not containing the titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 700 poise was used as the core polymer, and the PET had an alkali weight loss rate three times faster than PPT. Using this unstretched fiber yarn,The temperature of the first hot roller is 80 ° C, the temperature of the second hot roller is 130 ° C,The draw ratio is 2.6ZeroStretching was performed under the conditions. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties and no yarn breakage. The physical property values thereof are shown in Table 1, and showed excellent crimp expression ability. E0The diameter of the crimped coil that appears due to heat treatment for the measurement of the material is very fine, and the phase is aligned, resulting in a very high quality.
Example4
  Example except that the cross-sectional shape of the fiber is a trilobal cross-section (FIG. 4C)1The melt spinning was carried out under the same conditions as above. Example using the unstretched fiber yarn, except that the draw ratio was 2.95.1It extended | stretched on the conditions similar to. The physical property values thereof are shown in Table 1. PPT entered the inside of the crimp and showed excellent crimp expression ability. E0The diameter of the crimped coil that appears due to heat treatment for the measurement of the material is very fine, and the phase is aligned, resulting in a very high quality.
Comparative Example 1
  Homo PET containing 0.03 wt% of titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 130 poise (intrinsic viscosity 0.46) and a melt viscosity of 2650 poise (intrinsic viscosity 0.77) was separately melted at 275 ° C. and 290 ° C., respectively, and the absolute filtration diameter was 15 μm. After filtering separately using a stainless steel nonwoven fabric filter, a side-by-side type composite fiber (Fig. 3 (a)) having a pore number of 12 and having a composite ratio of 1: 1 from the insertion type die described in JP-A-9-157941 (Fig. 3 (a)). 4 (a)) was discharged at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. The melt viscosity ratio at this time was 20.3. Winding 154 dtex, 12 filaments of undrawn fiber yarn at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min, and then using a drawing machine having a hot roller, the temperature of the first hot roller is 90 ° C. and the temperature of the second hot roller is 130 ° C. The film was stretched at a stretching ratio of 2.80. Both the spinning and the drawing were inferior in yarn production, and many yarn breaks occurred. The physical property values are shown in Table 1.3.5= 0.5%, the crimp expression ability under restraint was low, and the crimp retention was 65%.
Comparative Example 2
  Homo PET containing 0.03 wt% of titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 2000 poise (intrinsic viscosity 0.73) and a melt viscosity of 2650 poise (ultimate viscosity 0.77) was melted separately at 290 ° C., and the spinning temperature was 290 ° C.After separately filtering using a stainless steel nonwoven fabric filter having an absolute filtration diameter of 15 μm, a parallel merged composite spinneret (third (a)) having 12 holes was used, and a side-by-side composite fiber having a composite ratio of 1: 1 was used.Melt spinning was performed, and an undrawn fiber yarn of 154 dtex, 12 filaments was wound at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min (FIG. 4B). The melt viscosity ratio at this time was 1.33. Thereafter, using a stretching machine having a hot roller, stretching was performed at a temperature of the first hot roller of 90 ° C., a temperature of the second hot roller of 130 ° C., and a stretching ratio of 2.80. The spinning and drawing properties were good, but E3.5= 0.2% and the crimp expression ability under restraint was low.
Comparative Example 3
  The same as Comparative Example 2 except that a homo PET containing 0.03 wt% of titanium oxide having a melt viscosity of 2000 poise and a co-polymer PET containing 0.03 wt% of titanium oxide copolymerized with 10 mol% of isophthalic acid as an acid component having a melt viscosity of 2100 poise were used. The melt spinning was performed under the conditions of 154 dtex, 12 filaments of undrawn fiber yarn at a spinning speed of 1500 m / min (FIG. 4 (a)). The melt viscosity ratio at this time was 1.05. Thereafter, using a stretching machine having a hot roller, stretching was performed at a temperature of the first hot roller of 90 ° C., a temperature of the second hot roller of 130 ° C., and a stretching ratio of 2.80. The spinning and drawing properties were good, but E3.5= 0.4% and the crimp expression ability under restraint was low, and the crimp retention was as low as 55%.
[0035]
Comparative Example 4
Spinning and drawing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the draw ratio was 2.00 times to obtain a latently crimped polyester fiber yarn. The physical property values of these are shown in Table 1, which is inferior to the shrinkage stress and Wooster spots.
[0036]
[Table 1]
[0037]
Example5
  Example 14The latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarns obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were used as a raw yarn, and a twisted yarn with a twisting coefficient K = 15000 was applied thereto, and a twist-stop set was performed with 65 ° C. steam. A plain weave was prepared using the same yarn for the warp and the weft. The yarn density at this time was 110 warps / inch and 91 wefts / inch for the weft, and the torque balance was achieved by alternating S twist / Z twist. The obtained raw machine was processed as follows. First, relaxing scouring was performed at 90 ° C., and then an intermediate set was applied by a pin tenter at a dry heat of 180 ° C. And after giving 15% alkali weight loss by a conventional method, it dye | stained at 130 degreeC by the conventional method again.
[0038]
  And when the cross section of the obtained fabric was observed with an electron microscope, Examples 1 to4As for the yarns of Comparative Examples 1 and 2, it was confirmed that a hollow structure similar to that in FIG. 1 was developed, but in Comparative Example 2, the hollow structure was not developed.
[0039]
  Moreover, sensory evaluation was performed for the texture of the obtained fabric. Example 14As is expected from the properties of the raw yarn, the yarns having a base yarn exhibited good stretch properties, but in Comparative Examples 1 to 4, the stretch properties were inferior. Further, in Comparative Example 4, the stain was deteriorated. Examples1-4In the case where the PPT entered the inside of the crimp, the crimped coil diameter was small and the phases were uniform in the original yarn, so that the fabric surface was very beautiful and rich in aesthetics.
[0040]
[Table 2]
[0041]
Example6
  Example1Example 3 Except for the latent crimp-forming polyester fiber yarn obtained in 15Fabrics were prepared and evaluated in the same manner as described above. All of them had a hollow structure in the woven fabric and had excellent stretch properties.
[0042]
[Table 3]
[0043]
Example7
  Example 12Then, using the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarn obtained in Comparative Examples 1 and 3 as a raw yarn, a blended yarn yarn of this and a low shrinkage fiber yarn was prepared under the conditions shown in Table 4, and 65 ° C. A twist set was made by steam. A plain weave was produced under the conditions shown in Table 4 using the same yarn for the warp and the weft. Then the example5Were processed and evaluated.
[0044]
When the cross section of the obtained fabric was observed with an electron microscope, it was confirmed that a cavity structure similar to FIG. 1 was developed.
[0045]
  Moreover, sensory evaluation was performed for the texture of the obtained fabric (Table 5). Example 12As expected from the properties of the raw yarn, the material having the yarn as a raw material exhibited good stretch properties, but those using Comparative Examples 1 and 3 as the raw yarn had poor stretch properties.
[0046]
  The levelAandBIn the case where the PPT entered the inside of the crimp, the crimped coil diameter was small and the phases were uniform in the original yarn, so that the fabric surface was very beautiful and rich in aesthetics.
[0047]
[Table 4]
[0048]
[Table 5]
[0049]
Example8
  Example2The twisted yarn of K = 15000 was applied to the latent crimp-expressing polyester fiber yarn obtained in (1) above, and the set was twisted with 65 ° C. steam. This strong twisted yarn was subjected to 28 gauge circular knitting to knit a knitted fabric with an interlock structure. This was performed in the same manner as in Example 11 until staining. However, the alkali weight loss was 10%. Since the crimped coil diameter was small and the phases were uniform in the raw yarn, very beautiful wrinkles appeared on the surface of the fabric, and it was rich in aesthetics. Moreover, although the texture evaluation result is shown in Table 6, very good stretch property was expressed.
[0050]
[Table 6]
[0051]
Comparative Example 5
  Example of polyester fiber yarn having latent crimps obtained in Comparative Example 18The knitting was knitted in the same manner as above and dyeing was performed. Compared to Example 14, the crimped coil diameter was large and the phase was shifted, so that the aesthetics of the fabric surface were inferior. Moreover, although the texture evaluation result is shown in Table 6, it was inferior to stretch property.
[0052]
【The invention's effect】
By using a latently crimpable polyester fiber yarn that has improved the crimping ability under the restraint of the fabric, which has been a problem in the past, and the crimp retention rate against repeated stretching, the stretchability and lightness are improved. It was possible to provide an excellent fabric.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a photomicrograph showing the shape of a fiber having a hollow structure in the center.
FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a method for measuring crimp elongation rate.
FIG. 3 is a view showing a base for side-by-side composite spinning.
FIG. 4 is a view showing a fiber cross-sectional shape of a polyester fiber.

Claims (6)

  1. It is a yarn composed of two types of polymers and is made of a latently crimpable polyester fiber in which the inside of the crimp is substantially polypropylene terephthalate, and has a Wooster spot of 2.0% or less and a maximum value of shrinkage stress. The latent crimpable polyester fiber yarn that simultaneously satisfies 0.25 cN / dtex or more, E 0 of 30% or more, and E 3.5 of 5% or more is twisted, and heat treatment is performed on the center portion of the yarn. A polyester fiber yarn characterized by having an ability to develop a hollow structure in the length direction.
    (However, E 0 : Crimp elongation ratio when heat-treated without load E 3.5 : Crimp elongation ratio when heat-treated under 3.5 × 10 −3 cN / dtex load Crimp elongation ratio (%) = [(L 1 −L 2 ) / L 1 ] × 100%
    L 1 : After skeining the yarn, the skein is treated with boiling water for 15 minutes, further subjected to 180 ° C. dry heat treatment for 15 minutes, and then the skein length when a load of 180 × 10 −3 cN / dtex is suspended L 2 : L After one measurement, the skein length when the suspended load is changed from 180 × 10 −3 cN / dtex to 0.9 × 10 −3 cN / dtex)
  2. The polyester fiber yarn according to claim 1, wherein the outer side of the crimp is composed of a latently crimpable polyester fiber which is substantially polyethylene terephthalate.
  3. 3. A polyester fiber yarn, characterized in that the yarn comprising the latently crimpable polyester fiber according to claim 1 or 2 and the yarn comprising a low shrinkage fiber having a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less are mixed. .
  4. The fabric characterized by including the polyester fiber thread | yarn which made the hollow structure express in the length direction of the center part of the thread | yarn by heat processing in any one of Claims 1-3 .
  5. The polyester fiber yarn according to claim 1 or 2 is twisted with a twist coefficient K of 3000 to 30000, formed into a fabric, and then heat treated to form a hollow structure in the latently crimped polyester fiber yarn. A method for producing a fabric, characterized in that
  6. Twisted polyester fiber yarns according to claim 3 Symbol placement, after forming a fabric using this, is characterized by the expression of latent crimp polyester fiber yarn in the cavity structure by heat treatment fabric Manufacturing method.
JP21346199A 1999-07-28 1999-07-28 Polyester fiber yarn and fabric Expired - Lifetime JP4123646B2 (en)

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EP1394296B1 (en) 2001-04-17 2011-01-12 Teijin Fibers Limited False twist yarn of polyester composite fiber and method for production thereof
KR100538507B1 (en) 2001-09-18 2005-12-23 아사히 가세이 셍이 가부시키가이샤 Polyester Composite Fiber Pirn and Production Method Therefor
US6846560B2 (en) * 2002-05-27 2005-01-25 Asahi Kasei Kabushiki Kaisha Conjugate fiber and method of producing same

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