JP3992604B2 - Polyester blended yarn - Google Patents

Description

【００５７】
【発明の効果】
本発明によれば、高級梳毛調の繊細で上品な手触り感、ふくらみ感を発現でき、ストレッチ性が高く、しかもノングリッター効果に優れた布帛が得られる混繊糸を提供することができる。[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a mixed yarn made of polyester fibers having different heat shrinkage rates.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, as a polyester fiber that can provide a delicate and elegant feel and swell like a high-grade eyelash-like fabric, for example, Patent Documents 1 to 3 disclose false twisted two-layer structures using a mixed fiber false twisting method. Yarns have been proposed. However, the fabric composed of these false twisted two-layer structure yarns has a problem that it lacks a deep color feeling after dyeing because it exhibits a unique luster, that is, a so-called glitter.
[0003]
On the other hand, there is a market demand for imparting excellent stretch properties so that such high-grade eyelash-like fabrics can be developed into clothes that are more active, such as casual wear and sporty wear. However, a fabric made of the above-described false twisted two-layer structure yarn has a limit in application development because a sufficient stretch cannot be obtained.
[0004]
[Patent Document 1]
Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-19733
[Patent Document 2]
Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 61-20661 [0006]
[Patent Document 3]
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2-139440
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention has been made against the background of the above-described prior art, and its purpose is to provide a polyester blended yarn that has a high-grade eyelash sensation, has high stretchability, and is excellent in non-glitter effect. It is to provide.
[0008]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
When the present inventors have skillfully combined two types of latently crimped fibers having different shrinkage ratios, the present invention has extremely high-grade eyelash feeling and stretchability without using a false twisting method as in the prior art. It was found that a mixed fiber was obtained.
[0009]
Thus, according to the present invention, each is a blended yarn made of at least one type of polyester and having two types of fibers having different thermal shrinkage rates mixed and entangled, and the low shrinkage fiber has hot water shrinkage. A latent crimping fiber having a rate of 0.5 to 6.0 %, a high shrinkage fiber having a boiling water shrinkage rate of 10% or more and a crimping rate after boiling water treatment of 1.5% or more There is provided a polyester mixed yarn, which is a shrinkable fiber, and none of the low shrinkage fiber, the high shrinkage fiber, and the mixed yarn is false twisted.
[0010]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The polyester blended yarn of the present invention is a blended yarn composed of at least one kind of polyester and two kinds of fibers having different heat shrinkage rates.
Examples of the polyester constituting the two types of fibers, that is, the low-shrinkage fiber and the high-shrinkage fiber, include, for example, polyethylene terephthalate polyester whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and polytrimethylene terephthalate whose main repeating unit is trimethylene terephthalate. And polybutylene terephthalate polyester whose main repeating unit is butylene terephthalate, and the like, and polyethylene terephthalate polyester whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate is particularly preferable.
[0011]
The polyethylene terephthalate-based, polytrimethylene terephthalate-based, or polybutylene terephthalate-based polyester described above has a small amount of copolymer component (usually less than 20 mol% based on the total acid component) as necessary. For example, examples of the copolymerizable acid component include isophthalic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, and the diol component includes the above-mentioned Other than the glycol component forming the repeating unit, ethylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, polyethylene glycol, polytetramethylene glycol, etc. can be mentioned. .
[0012]
The polyester may contain known additives such as pigments, dyes, matting agents, antifouling agents, fluorescent brighteners, flame retardants, stabilizers, ultraviolet absorbers, lubricants, and the like. .
[0013]
In the present invention, both the low shrinkage fiber and the high shrinkage fiber are latent crimpable fibers. For example, when spinning one kind of polyester, a fiber obtained by anisotropically cooling the yarn melted and discharged under the die. It may be a composite fiber in which two types of polyester are combined into a side-by-side type and an eccentric core-sheath type.
[0014]
In the case of the former anisotropically cooled fiber, the polyester constituting this can be selected from the polyesters described above. Further, in the case of the latter composite fiber, the combination of the polyesters constituting this may be a combination of different polyesters among the above-mentioned polyesters, or a combination of polyesters having different intrinsic viscosities even with the same polyester. There may be.
[0015]
In the present invention, the low shrinkage fiber is preferably a composite fiber in which two types of polyester are combined into a side-by-side type and an eccentric core-sheath type, and among them, isophthalic acid is 8 to 15 mol% based on the total acid component. The composite fiber is preferably a composite fiber in which a copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate and a polyester containing substantially no copolymerization component are combined as described above. From such a composite fiber, a softer and more delicate fabric can be obtained.
[0016]
In addition, the intrinsic viscosity of the polyester constituting the composite fiber (measured at a temperature of 30 ° C. using an orthochlorophenol solvent) has a low shrinkage component due to the stability of yarn production and the ease of developing latent crimps. It is preferable that the range is 0.50 to 1.0, the high shrinkage component is 0.35 to 0.55, and the difference is 0.15 or more.
[0017]
Furthermore, although the production method of the low shrinkage fiber will be described in detail later, when the low shrinkage fiber is a composite fiber as described above, the composite fiber is taken up at a take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min in melt spinning. It is preferable that the composite fiber is subjected to relaxation heat treatment. When such a composite fiber is used, a fabric excellent in high-grade eyelash feeling having a softer and more delicate feel can be obtained.
[0018]
In the present invention, the low-shrinkage fiber needs to have a boiling water shrinkage of 0.5 to 8.0%, preferably 2.0 to 6.0%. When the boiling water shrinkage rate is less than 0.5%, the high-grade eyelash feeling intended by the present invention cannot be obtained. On the other hand, when the boiling water shrinkage rate exceeds 8.0%, the difference in shrinkage from the high shrinkage fiber described later becomes small, and excellent high-grade eyelash feeling and stretchability cannot be obtained.
[0019]
On the other hand, the high shrinkage fiber is preferably a composite fiber in which two types of polyester are combined into a side-by-side type and an eccentric core-sheath type, and among them, a composite fiber in which polyethylene terephthalate having a different intrinsic viscosity is combined as described above is used. preferable.
[0020]
In the present invention, the high shrinkage fiber needs to have a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or more, preferably 10 to 50%, more preferably 10 to 40%. If the boiling water shrinkage is less than 10%, high stretchability cannot be obtained. Further, the difference from the shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage fibers is not sufficient, and an excellent high-grade eyelash feeling cannot be obtained.
[0021]
Moreover, in this invention, it is necessary to make the crimp rate after the boiling-water process of a highly shrinkable fiber into 1.5% or more. If the crimp rate is less than 1.5%, sufficient stretch properties and high-grade eyelashes cannot be obtained.
[0022]
In the present invention, the low shrinkage fiber and the high shrinkage fiber are mixed and entangled to obtain a mixed yarn, which is heat-treated, so that the high shrinkage fiber is mainly in the core portion and the low elongation fiber is mainly in the sheath. It can be set as the structure distribute | arranged to the part. Moreover, at the core and the sheath, crimps with different crimp directions and periods appear due to the difference in shrinkage between the low shrinkage fiber and the high shrinkage fiber, and these different crimps appear in the mixed yarn. Since it expresses in the core part and the sheath part, a two-stage crimped structure is formed. This two-stage crimped structure brings a high-class eyelash feel to the fabric, and at the same time, sufficient stretch properties are exhibited. It was also found that the above-described low-shrinkage fibers were arranged in the sheath, whereby an extremely superior high-grade eyelash feeling that was not obtained before was obtained.
[0023]
In the present invention, the single fiber fineness of the low shrinkage fibers is preferably 0.05 to 3.5 dtex, and the single yarn fineness of the high shrinkage fibers is preferably 0.55 to 15.0 dtex. Moreover, it is preferable that the single yarn fineness of a low shrinkage fiber is lower than the single fiber fineness of a high shrinkage fiber, and the difference is preferably 0.5 dtex or more, more preferably 1.0 dtex or more. By making such a difference in fineness, crimps with different crimp sizes appear between the core and the sheath to form a clear two-stage crimp structure, and a more delicate feel and a high-grade eyelash feel. An excellent fabric is obtained.
[0024]
The blended yarn of the present invention is a blended yarn in which high-shrinkable fibers and low-shrinkable fibers are mixed and entangled. As a result, the surface of the fabric tends to have a rough appearance. On the other hand, if the surface is too high, the inter-fiber voids decrease, the fabric does not swell sufficiently, and high-grade eyelashes are difficult to obtain. For this reason, the number of entanglements is preferably in the range of 10 to 90 pieces / m, more preferably in the range of 15 to 50 pieces / m.
[0025]
The blended yarn of the present invention is obtained by blending the above-described high-shrinkage fibers and low-shrinkage fibers, and can be produced without going through a conventional false twisting process. For this reason, from the mixed yarn of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric excellent in so-called non-glitter effect free from glitter and shine caused by deformation of the fiber cross section during false twisting.
[0026]
In the present invention, the single fiber cross-sectional shape of the low-shrinkage fiber and the high-shrinkage fiber is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain a non-glitter effect, a cross-section that is crushed and deformed like a false twisted yarn is not preferable.
[0027]
The polyester mixed yarn of the present invention described above can be produced, for example, by the following method.
[0028]
Low-shrinkage fibers are prepared by drying two types of pelletized polyester in a conventional manner, melting them in a normal melt spinning facility equipped with a screw extruder, compound spinning into a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type, and cooling. Then, an appropriate oil agent is applied, and the film is drawn at a take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min without drawing to form a latent crimpable conjugate fiber. When the take-up speed exceeds 4000 m / min, it becomes difficult to adjust the boiling water shrinkage of the composite fiber to 0.5 to 8.0% by performing the relaxation heat treatment described later, and a fabric having a high-grade eyelash feeling can be obtained. It tends to be difficult. On the other hand, when the take-up speed is less than 2000 m / min, the resulting composite fiber is likely to be fragile, and the handleability of the mixed fiber is deteriorated.
[0029]
In the latent crimpable conjugate fiber having such a difference in shrinkage rate, the boiling water shrinkage rate is reduced to 0.5 by adjusting the heat treatment conditions and relaxing heat treatment of the conjugate fiber taken up at the spinning speed in the above range. A low shrinkage yarn of ˜8.0% can be obtained. For example, after winding the taken-up conjugate fiber, it is passed through a heat treatment device in which a heater is installed between at least two rotating rollers, and subjected to relaxation heat treatment, resulting in low shrinkage with a boiling water shrinkage of 0.5 to 8.0%. Use fiber. The heater is preferably a non-contact type in terms of process passage. At this time, the relaxation rate varies depending on the spinning speed described above, but is preferably in the range of 1 to 45%, more preferably in the range of 1 to 10%. When the relaxation rate is less than 1%, the shrinkage rate tends to be higher than 8%. On the other hand, when the relaxation rate exceeds 45%, the running yarn often winds around the roller during the relaxation heat treatment.
[0030]
At this time, the heater temperature is preferably 180 to 280 ° C, more preferably 200 to 260 ° C. When the heater temperature is less than 180 ° C., the boiling water shrinkage tends to exceed 10%. On the other hand, when the heater temperature exceeds 280 ° C., yarn breakage is likely to occur near the heater.
[0031]
On the other hand, as described above, the high yield fiber may be a fiber subjected to anisotropic cooling, or a composite fiber such as a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type fiber.
[0032]
In the case of the fibers subjected to the former anisotropic cooling, the polyester pellets can be melted and discharged from a known spinneret, taken up at 500 to 2000 m / min, and stretched as necessary. In that case, it can manufacture by spraying 5-30 degreeC cooling air perpendicularly | vertically with respect to a discharge yarn just under a spinneret. The drawing may be performed separately after winding the unstretched fiber once, or may be performed continuously after the unstretched fiber is taken up by spinning.
[0033]
In the case of the latter composite fiber, a high shrinkage yarn can be obtained by the following method. Two different types of polyester pellets are melt-spun from a known composite spinneret, wound up at 1000 to 4000 m / min, and the obtained undrawn yarn is drawn. At this time, the undrawn yarn may not be wound up in this way and may be drawn directly after spinning.
[0034]
The stretching / heat setting is preferably performed at a stretching temperature in the range of 30 to 100 ° C and a heat setting temperature in the range of 140 to 280 ° C. When the preheating temperature is less than 30 ° C., it becomes non-uniform stretching and tends to be a fiber with many quality spots. On the other hand, when the preheating temperature exceeds 100 ° C., the spinnability tends to become unstable, for example, the yarn swaying on the roller is large and the yarn unevenness is large. In addition, when the stretching set temperature is less than 140 ° C., stretching cannot be stably performed, stretching spots are generated, and fluff and staining spots are easily generated. On the other hand, when the stretching set temperature exceeds 280 ° C., yarn breakage is likely to occur during heat setting.
[0035]
The draw ratio varies depending on the spinning speed, but is preferably set so that the elongation of the highly contracted fiber after drawing is 25 to 65%. When the draw ratio is set so that the degree of elongation is less than 25%, the yarn breakage and fluff in the drawing increase. On the other hand, when the draw ratio is set such that the elongation exceeds 65%, it is not preferable because unstretched multifilaments are often observed in the resulting highly shrinkable fibers.
[0036]
Using the well-known interlace nozzle, the degree of entanglement is 15 to 90 pieces / m while aligning the low-shrinkable fibers and the high-shrinkable fibers thus obtained and applying 1 to 5% overfeed. Thus, the polyester pressure yarn can be obtained by adjusting the nozzle pressure and air pressure and entangled with the mixture.
[0037]
The obtained polyester blended yarn is woven or knitted, and is subjected to scouring, dyeing, and finish processing, which are generally performed, and latent crimps are developed, and high-grade eyelash feeling, stretchability, and non-glitter effect are excellent. Can be woven or knitted.
[0038]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples. In addition, each item in an Example was measured with the following method.
[0039]
(1) Intrinsic viscosity Measured at 35 ° C. using orthochlorophenol as a solvent.
[0040]
(2) Boiling water shrinkage (%)
Measured according to JIS L1013 8.18.1 B method.
[0041]
(3) A crimp of 1225/2500 mN × 9 × display tex (50 mg × display denier) is applied to the casserole frame to make a casket of about 3300 dtex (3000 de). After the casket was prepared, a load of 49/2500 mN × 9 × display tex + 49/25 mN × 9 × display tex (2 mg × display denier + 200 mg × display denier) was added to one end of the casserole, and the length L0 (cm) after 1 minute had passed. Measure. Subsequently, it is treated in boiling water at 100 ° C. for 20 minutes with the load of 49/25 mN × 9 × display tex (200 mg × display denier) removed. After the boiling water treatment, the load of 49/2500 mN × 9 × display tex (2 mg × display denier) is removed, and it is naturally dried in a free state for 24 hours. A load of 49/2500 mN x 9 x display tex + 49/25 mN x 9 x display tex (2 mg x display denier + 200 mg x display denier) is added to the naturally dried sample, and the length L1 (cm) after 1 minute has passed. taking measurement. Next, the load of 49/25 mN × 9 × display tex (200 mg × display denier) was removed, the length L2 after 1 minute was measured, and the next total crimp rate was calculated. In addition, the measurement was performed 10 times and the average value was calculated | required.
Crimp rate (%) = [(L1-L2) / L0] × 100
[0042]
(4) Entanglement degree (ke / m)
It measured according to JIS L1013 8.15.
[0043]
(5) A test piece having a stretch rate of 5 cm × 20 cm is gripped with an initial load of 20 g using a tensile tester with an automatic recording device so that the grip interval is 10 cm. After extending to a constant load of 5 kg, immediately return to the original position at the same speed and draw a load-extension curve. The stretch rate is expressed by the following equation when the extension distance is set to Lcm (up to 0.01 cm) immediately before returning to the original position at the same speed after extending to the above 1.5 kg constant load.
ST = [L / 10] × 100 (%)
[0044]
(6) High-grade eyelash feeling, non-glitter effect Weaved mixed yarn with warp 192 / 3.79cm, 144 weft / 3.79cm weave, dyed blue, and high-grade eyelash feeling by five experts (Soft and delicate feel, swelling feeling), non-glitter effect was evaluated. The results were shown as good and bad.
[0045]
[Example 1]
Polyethylene terephthalate copolymer polyester having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 obtained by copolymerization of 10 mol% of isophthalic acid based on the total acid components and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.43 at a composite weight ratio of 50/50 Composite melt spinning (melt spinning temperature: 280 ° C., melt viscosity difference: 70 Pa · sec) in a side-by-side mold, wound at a take-up speed of 3000 m / min, and then stretched 1.6 times, stretched speed 600 m / min, stretched The film was stretched and heat-set at a temperature of 90 ° C. and a heat setting temperature of 230 ° C. to obtain a highly shrinkable fiber of 110 dtex 24 filaments.
[0046]
On the other hand, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.43 are compound melt-spun into a side-by-side type at a compound weight ratio of 50/50 (melt spinning temperature: 285 ° C., difference in melt viscosity: 70 Pa · sec) and wound up at a take-up speed of 3000 m / min, to obtain a composite fiber of 70 dtex 24 filaments. The obtained composite fiber was passed through a non-contact type slit heater set at 230 ° C. (relaxation heat treatment temperature), and subjected to relaxation heat treatment at a relaxation rate of 3.5% and a passing speed of 400 m / min. Combined with the high shrinkage fiber, the fiber was entangled with a mixed fiber entanglement treatment with a pneumatic pressure of 0.2 MPa of an interlace nozzle. The obtained blended yarn had 183 dtex 48 filaments and the entanglement degree was 35 / m.
[0047]
Table 1 shows the boiling water shrinkage rate of the low shrinkage fibers and the boiling water shrinkage rate and the crimping rate of the high shrinkage fibers among the obtained mixed yarns.
[0048]
As a result of weaving the above mixed yarn and evaluating the texture, it was excellent in stretchability and non-glitter effect, had a delicate feel and moderate swelling, and was excellent in high-grade eyelash feeling.
[0049]
[Example 2]
Except for changing the heat setting temperature when producing high shrinkage fibers from 230 ° C. to 250 ° C. and changing the relaxation rate when producing low shrinkage fibers from 3.5% to 6%, the same as in Example 1. A blended yarn was obtained. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
[0050]
[Example 3]
Except for changing the heat setting temperature when producing the high shrinkage fiber from 230 ° C. to 150 ° C. and changing the relaxation rate when producing the low shrinkage fiber from 3.5% to 8%, the same as in Example 1. A blended yarn was obtained. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
[0051]
[Comparative Example 1]
A mixed yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the relaxation rate in producing the low shrinkage fiber was changed from 3.5% to 12%. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
[0052]
[Comparative Example 2]
A blended yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the relaxation rate in producing the low shrinkage fiber was changed from 3.5% to 0%. The evaluation results are shown in Table 1.
[0053]
[Comparative Example 3]
The mixed yarn is the same as in Example 1 except that the low shrinkage fiber is not a composite fiber but a fiber obtained by winding polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 at a melt spinning temperature of 280 ° C. and a spinning speed of 3200 m / min. Got. As a result of evaluation, no expression of crimp was observed in the sheath portion of the blended yarn, resulting in a lack of high-class eyelash feeling.
[0054]
[Comparative Example 4]
A mixed yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.63 was changed to polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.55 among the polyester constituting the highly shrinkable fiber. As a result of the evaluation, since the crimp rate of the highly shrinkable fiber that is the core yarn is insufficient, the blended yarn does not form a two-stage crimped structure, and both the high-class eyelash feeling and the stretchability are low.
[0055]
[Comparative Example 5]
When producing a low shrinkage fiber, a mixed fiber was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the fiber was subjected to false twisting. As a result of the evaluation, shining peculiar to false twisted yarn was found in the fabric, resulting in lack of non-glitter effect.
[0056]
[Table 1]

[0057]
【The invention's effect】
ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, the mixed yarn which can express the delicate and refined feel of a high-class eyelash tone and a feeling of swell, a stretch property, and the excellent non-glitter effect can be provided.

Claims (5)

Each is a blended yarn made of at least one kind of polyester and having two kinds of fibers having different heat shrinkage rates mixed and entangled, and the low shrinkage fiber has a boiling water shrinkage of 0.5 to 6.0. %, A highly shrinkable fiber is a latently crimpable fiber having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 10% or more and a crimping ratio after boiling water treatment of 1.5% or more. None of the fiber, the highly shrinkable fiber, and the mixed yarn are false twisted.   The polyester mixed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the low shrinkage fiber is a latent crimpable conjugate fiber in which two kinds of polyester are compounded in a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type.   The polyester mixed yarn according to claim 2, wherein the low shrinkage fiber is a latent crimpable conjugate fiber obtained by drawing at a take-up speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min in melt spinning and subjecting the low shrink fiber to relaxation heat treatment.   The polyester mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the high shrinkage fiber is a latent crimpable conjugate fiber in which two kinds of polyester are compounded into a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type.   The fineness of the high shrinkage fiber is larger than that of the low shrinkage fiber, and the single fiber fineness of the low shrinkage fiber and the high shrinkage fiber is 0.05 to 3.5 dtex and 0.55 to 15.0 dtex, respectively. The polyester mixed yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4, which is 5 dtex or more.