JP2006214056A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a woven fabric having excellent wash-and-wear properties corresponding to a washing machine with drying function, and suitable for shirt cloth. <P>SOLUTION: The woven fabric is obtained by using as a warp yarn and/or a weft yarn, a composite yarn of a filament and a staple fiber in a core-sheath structure obtained by using a polytrimethylene terephthalate-based filament and/or a conjugate filament composed by sticking two kinds of polyester-based polymers in which one is the polyester consisting essentially of a polytrimethylene terephthalate in a side-by-side shape along the longitudinal direction of the fiber as a core yarn, and a staple fiber obtained by mixing a polyester fiber with a cotton fiber in a ratio of (0:100)-(40:60) as a sheath yarn. The woven fabric can be the shirt cloth having excellent wash-and-wear properties. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2006,JPO&NCIPI

Description

  The present invention relates to a fabric suitable for a dress shirt fabric excellent in wash and wear property (W / W property).

  Conventionally, many researches and developments have been conducted on long and short fiber composite yarns composed of filaments and short fibers. Among them, for example, polyurethane-based elastic yarns were used as long and short fiber composite yarns with stretch properties. Examples thereof include composite yarns (CSY) with short fibers, and core yarns that converge stretchable filaments and place them at the core of the short fibers.

  However, such long and short fiber composite yarns mainly focus on imparting stretch properties to the fabric, and did not appeal for the effect of preventing wrinkles in washing machines with a drying function that has recently become mainstream.

  On the other hand, for example, it has been proposed to impart stretchability in one direction using cellulosic fibers and polyurethane elastic yarn (see Patent Document 1), but this imparts stretchability using polyurethane elastic yarn. In addition, it is shrink-proofed and regulates shrinkage when washed with a washing machine, and there is no description of tumbler drying.

  In addition, as an example using a filament, a fabric using a long and short fiber composite yarn having polyester and polytrimethylene terephthalate as a core yarn has been proposed (see Patent Document 2). The W / W property is not considered.

  On the other hand, long and short fiber composite yarns having bimetallic composite yarns using polytrimethylene terephthalate as core yarns have been proposed (see Patent Literature 3 and Patent Literature 4), but these proposals focus on composite yarns. In addition, it is intended to promote stretchability when it is made into a woven fabric, and W / W property is not considered.

Separately, a pant fabric has been proposed in which a composite spun yarn using 100% polytrimethylene terephthalate bimetal yarn as the core and short fibers as the sheath is subjected to strong twist to form a coil structure (patent) This proposal is aimed at obtaining stretchability, and does not mention W / W property corresponding to a dryer-integrated washing machine.
JP 2002-61050 A JP 2002-266180 A JP 2003-20533 A JP 2003-155636 A

  Therefore, the present invention has an object to obtain a woven fabric having good W / W properties that cannot be obtained by the above-described conventional technology, and further to obtain a woven fabric having soft stretch properties. .

  In order to solve the above-described problems, the fabric of the present invention has the following configuration.

  That is, the woven fabric of the present invention is a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction of two types of polyester polymers in which the core yarn is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber or / and one of them is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate. A core-sheath structure long / short fiber composite yarn using a short fiber mixed with a polyester fiber / cotton ratio of 0: 100 to 40:60 using a long fiber of a composite fiber bonded to A woven fabric characterized by being used for wefts.

  Further, the woven fabric of the present invention comprises a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as a core yarn and / or two types of polyester polymers, one of which is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, side-by-side along the fiber length direction. A core-sheath composite long / short fiber composite yarn using a short fiber mixed with a polyester fiber / cotton ratio of 0: 100 to 40:60 is used as a sheath yarn, using a long fiber of a composite fiber bonded to a mold, and warp Alternatively, the woven fabric is characterized in that a spun yarn having a polyester fiber: cotton ratio of 100: 0 to 40:60 is used for the weft and warp which are opposite to each other.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the fabric of the present invention, the fabric elongation rate in the direction using the core-sheath structure long / short fiber composite yarn is 10% to 20%, and the wash-and-wear property is a grade 3 or higher fabric. is there.

  Moreover, the fabric of the present invention is suitable for shirting such as dress shirting.

According to the present invention, by using the above-mentioned long and short fiber composite yarn containing polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as a warp and / or weft, it is possible to obtain a woven fabric excellent in W / W property. Further, by using the composite fiber bonded to the side-by-side type, it is possible to give the fabric a stretch property having a fabric elongation rate of 10% or more.

  In the woven fabric of the present invention, two types of polyester polymers, which are polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers or one of polyesters mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are attached to the core yarn side by side along the fiber length direction. A core-sheath structure long / short fiber composite yarn using a long fiber made of a combined composite fiber and a short fiber mixed with a ratio of polyester fiber: cotton from 0: 100 to 40:60 is used as the sheath yarn. By using it for the warp and / or the weft, W / W class 3 or more can be achieved.

  First, the long fibers (multifilament) of the composite fiber bonded to the side-by-side type constituting the core yarn of the long / short fiber composite yarn used in the present invention will be described.

  Side-by-side type composite fibers are bonded with polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, copolymerization components, copolymerization rates, and the like, and develop crimps due to differences in their elastic recovery characteristics and shrinkage characteristics. In the case of a side-by-side type composite fiber having a difference in intrinsic viscosity, the stress is concentrated on the high intrinsic viscosity side during spinning or drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side contracts greatly due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching, and distortion occurs in the single fiber, resulting in a three-dimensional coil crimp. It can be said that the diameter of this three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per unit fiber length are determined by the shrinkage difference (including the elastic recovery rate difference) between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component. And the number of coils per unit fiber length increases.

  The coil crimp required as a stretch material has a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent stretch characteristics and good appearance), and good coil sag resistance (depending on the number of stretches) The amount of sag of the coil is small and the stretch retention is excellent), and the hysteresis loss at the time of recovery of extension of the coil is small (excellent elasticity and good fit). While satisfying all these requirements, it has a characteristic as a polyester fiber, for example, moderate tension, drape, and high dyeing fastness, so that it can be a stretch material excellent in total balance.

  Here, in order to satisfy the coil characteristics described above, the characteristics of the high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) are important. Since the expansion / contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion / contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as a fulcrum, the polymer used for the high contraction component is required to have high extensibility and recoverability.

  Therefore, as a result of intensive studies to satisfy the above properties without impairing the properties of the polyester fiber, the present inventors mainly have polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as PTT) as a high shrinkage component. It was found that the polyester fiber (hereinafter sometimes abbreviated as PTT fiber) was used. PTT fibers have the same mechanical properties as polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) or polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) fibers, which are typical polyester fibers. In addition, the elastic recovery property and the elongation recovery property are extremely excellent while having chemical properties. This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the crystal structure of PTT is a Gauche-Gauche structure (the molecular chain is bent at 90 degrees), and further, the density of restraint points due to the interaction between benzene rings (stacking, parallel). This is probably because the molecular chain easily stretches and recovers due to the rotation of the methylene group.

  Here, PTT in the present invention is a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as the main glycol component. However, it may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of 20 mol%, more preferably 10 mol% or less.

  Examples of the copolymerizable compound include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol And diols such as cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol, but are not limited thereto. Further, if necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, silica or alumina fine particles as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives and coloring pigments as an antioxidant may be added.

  In addition, the low shrinkage component (low viscosity component) is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester that has good interfacial adhesion with PTT, which is a high shrinkage component, and has stable yarn-making properties. Considering mechanical properties, chemical properties, and raw material prices, PET capable of forming fibers is preferable.

  Further, the composite ratio of both components is preferably in the range of high shrinkage component: low shrinkage component = 75: 25 to 35:65 (% by weight) in terms of yarn production and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. More preferably, it is the range of 65: 35-45: 55.

  The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side type composite fiber constituting the long and short fiber composite yarn used in the present invention may be a round cross section, a flat cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-global cross section, an X-type cross section, and other known irregular cross sections, In particular, a dharma type cross section is preferable. The Dharma-type cross section referred to here is one in which the interface between the PTT component and the PET component is bonded in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction of the cross section.

  The side-by-side type composite fiber is easy to express crimps with torque in the S and Z directions in an aggregated form of multifilament phases. As a result, the entire long fiber (multifilament) is changed at the transition of S and Z torque. When twisted and made into a woven fabric, wrinkles are likely to occur.

  Therefore, it is preferable that the side-by-side type composite fiber constituting the long / short fiber composite yarn used in the present invention does not have a uniform crimp phase between the single fibers constituting the long fiber (multifilament). Here, the crimp phase refers to a pattern in which the crimp of the torque in the S direction and the crimp of the torque in the Z direction are alternately expressed in the single fiber. For example, by arranging the crimp of another single fiber in the Z-torque direction at a location where a single fiber exhibits S torque crimp, each other's torque is erased without losing stretch properties, and wrinkles are generated. Can be suppressed. It is necessary to disperse the crimping force in order to prevent the crimping phase from being aligned between the single fibers constituting the long fiber (multifilament). If so, the occurrence of wrinkles can be prevented, and a higher quality fabric can be obtained.

  Further, the single fiber fineness of the side-by-side type composite fiber is preferably 1.1 to 10 dtex, more preferably 1.1 to 6 dtex. By setting the single fiber fineness to 1.1 dtex or more and 3.0 dtex or less, the stretch property by crimping and the effect of suppressing wrinkles can be obtained.

  Further, the side-by-side type composite fiber constituting the long and short fiber composite yarn used in the present invention preferably has an extension recovery rate of 80% or more at 20% extension. If this elongation recovery rate is 80% or more, when it is made into a long and short composite yarn with a ring spinning machine, it has strong stretch back properties and crimp expression, so that it is strongly entangled with the short fiber component, and the form of the core-sheath structure Long and short composite yarns having excellent stability, swelling feeling and high stretch can be obtained, and good stretchability can be obtained when made into a woven fabric.

  The total fineness of the side-by-side type composite fiber used in the present invention is preferably 20 dtex to 100 dtex. When the total fineness is less than 20 dtex, the properties of the sheath yarn become the characteristics of the long and short fiber composite yarn, and it becomes difficult to exert the effects of the present invention. When the total fineness exceeds 100 dtex, the number of sheath yarns is reduced, and the core yarn is exposed to the sheath portion of the long / short fiber composite yarn. The total fineness preferred as the core yarn of the particularly preferred long / short fiber composite yarn used for shirting is 25 to 60 dtex.

  Further, the number of filaments of the side-by-side type composite fiber used in the present invention is determined by the total fineness and the short fiber fineness, but from the viewpoint of softness and feel against bending when made into a woven fabric, 6 to 46 filaments are preferable, and the stretch From the viewpoint of the properties and the effect of suppressing wrinkles during processing, it is more preferably 12 filaments to 36 filaments.

  In addition, when the core yarn constituting the long and short fiber composite yarn used in the present invention is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber alone, the total fineness and the number of filaments are the same as when the side-by-side composite fiber is used as the core yarn. Is preferred.

  Next, the short fibers constituting the sheath yarn of the long / short fiber composite yarn used in the present invention will be described. The fiber material used as the short fiber used in the present invention is preferably a combination of cotton and polyester fiber. There are various types of short fibers such as natural fibers such as wool and hemp, synthetic fibers such as acrylic fibers, polyamide fibers and polypropylene fibers, but cotton and polyester from the standpoint of heat resistance and washing resistance. Mixture of fibers is preferred.

  Moreover, it is preferable that the mixing ratio in the case of using cotton and polyester fiber as a sheath thread is polyester fiber: cotton from 0: 100 to 40:60. In the present invention, long and short fiber composite yarns are preferably used in the form of long and short fiber composite spun yarns. However, since the properties of the core yarn greatly affect the form stability, a material that can emphasize hygroscopicity and texture is selected for the sheath yarn. There is a need.

  Moreover, the cross-sectional shape of the short fiber constituting the short fiber used in the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be a round shape, a modified shape such as a polygonal shape, an H shape, or a hollow shape. Although the fineness of the short fiber is not particularly limited, it is preferably 0.5 to 5 dtex in consideration of spinnability, and the fiber length is preferably a fiber length according to various spinning methods, preferably 25 mm to 68 mm. Generally, it is used as a raw material for spinning, and more preferably has a fiber length of 38 mm belonging to short spinning.

  The count of the long / short fiber composite yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, but when producing the long / short fiber composite spun yarn, it is preferable to set the cross-sectional number of short fibers to be 50 or more and 200 or less, In order to use for shirting, 35 / 1S or less is preferable, and 40 / 1S or less and 60 / 1S or more are more preferable in terms of weight per unit area and thickness. The twist number T is preferably set slightly lower than that of a general long / short composite spun yarn. When T (times / in) = K (cotton count) 1/2 (K: twist coefficient), K = 3. A range of 0 to 4.0 is preferred.

  The long and short fiber composite yarn used in the present invention has a core-sheath structure composed of the above-described long fibers and short fibers and wound so that one is a core and the other is a sheath.

  In the case of a structure in which long fibers such as side-by-side type composite fiber yarns are used for the core part and the short fibers are wound on the sheath part, the swell feeling and sheath obtained by the excellent stretchability and recoverability of the side-by-side type composite fiber yarns A material having a soft texture can be obtained due to the fluffiness of the short fibers of the components.

  The composite ratio of the long fiber and the short fiber is long fiber / short fiber = 15/85 to 85/15 (% by weight) from the viewpoint of the extensibility of the composite yarn, the core cover property, and the spinning performance. preferable.

  Next, the manufacturing method of the long and short fiber composite yarn of the present invention will be described. For example, to combine side-by-side type composite fiber yarn with polyester short fiber and cotton using a ring spinning machine, to make side-by-side type composite fiber yarn appear at the core of long and short fiber composite yarn, and polyester short fiber and cotton appear on the surface Are preferably combined so as to maintain a certain difference in the supply speed of the two components during twisting. When the feed speeds from the side-by-side type composite fiber yarn, polyester short fiber, and cotton front roller are Vf and Vs, respectively, the speed relationship of the two components is Vf <Vs, and Vs = L · Vf (L: coefficient) L is preferably set to 1.01 to 1.025. The constant L is determined by the mixing ratio of the side-by-side type composite fiber yarn, the polyester short fiber, and cotton, the twist coefficient, and the like.

  Since the side-by-side type composite fiber yarn has excellent stretchability and recoverability, it stretches back immediately after being sent out from the front top roller, and twists and entangles while winding the other short fiber fleece, and the core component and sheath component are It is a long and short fiber composite yarn that is firmly wrapped in a core-sheath state without being separated and has excellent shape stability of the core-sheath structure. Further, the production method of the long and short fiber composite yarn is not limited to the above-described core-sheath type production method, but may be a fine spinning and twisting method.

  In the present invention, the long and short fiber composite yarn obtained as described above is used for warp and / or weft of a woven fabric. When the long / short fiber composite yarn is used as one of the warp or the weft, the partner yarn (the weft or the warp) is not particularly limited to a spun yarn or a filament yarn, but a spun yarn is preferably used for forming a shirt fabric. The material of the spun yarn is preferably a polyester fiber / cotton mixed product mainly composed of synthetic fiber having a low hygroscopic property in order to suppress the behavior during washing. When the sheath yarn of the long / short fiber composite yarn is 100% cotton, even if the polyester fiber is 100%, the cotton mixing ratio as a fabric can be maintained to some extent, so that wearing comfort can be obtained. Therefore, it is preferable to adjust the cotton mixture ratio of the spun yarn so that the material mixture ratio of the shirt fabric is 20% or more and 60% or less of cotton.

  The yarn count of the spun yarn used as the partner yarn is preferably 60S to 20S for single yarn, 120 / 2S to 40 / 2S for twin yarn, more preferably 45S to 30S for single yarn, and 100 for double yarn. / 2S to 60 / 2S is good. The material mixture ratio of the spun yarn is preferably in the range of 100: 0 to 40:60 for polyester fiber: cotton.

  The woven fabric of the present invention preferably has a woven fabric elongation of 10% or more and 20% or less for at least one of the processes.

  The fabric elongation rate is a stretch property parameter defined in “Measurement method” in the examples. If the stretch rate of the fabric is less than 10%, it may not be possible to follow the stretching of the skin during the movement of the human body, and if it exceeds 20%, the phenomenon that the surface of the fabric corrugates during ironing due to the thermal characteristics of the PPT polymer. It is done.

  Moreover, it is preferable that the elongation recovery rate of the woven fabric of the present invention in the direction having stretch properties is 70% or more. When the fabric elongation recovery rate is less than 70%, the fabric is difficult to recover when worn, and the knees and elbows may sag and become wrinkled.

  Further, in the present invention, the finish basis weight of the woven fabric is preferably 180 g / square meter or less because it is excellent in strength, fit and functionality as a shirting fabric. The basis weight is particularly preferably 100 to 150 g / square meter. Those with a basis weight of less than 100 g / sq.m. In addition, those having a basis weight exceeding 180 g / square meter tend to be heavy as shirting.

  The loom used in the present invention is not limited, and a loom such as an air jet loom or a rapier room can be used.

  As the texture of the woven fabric, surge (twill weave) is most preferable from the viewpoint of stretchability and softness, followed by plain weave and warp weave.

  After weaving, the fabric is usually relaxed heat-treated, intermediate set, dyed and finished. In the relaxation heat treatment, it is preferable to set the temperature in the liquid to 80 ° C. or higher so that the crimp of the side-by-side type composite fiber can be fully expressed by overcoming the fabric restraining force. In dyeing, since the fastness to dyeing is further enhanced, it is preferable to use a disperse dye on the polyester fiber side and a direct dye or reactive dye on the cotton side.

  The woven fabric obtained as described above is a polyester / plant system that has stretch properties, has a soft texture, has excellent wear comfort, and has dimensional stability and high dyeing fastness. A shirting fabric mixed with fibers can be provided.

Furthermore, the woven fabric of the present invention can have a W / W property of 3 or higher. When the W / W property is 3rd grade or less, wrinkles are noticed after washing and drying, and it is not in a situation that can be practically worn.
In the present invention, the reason why this W / W property is good is not clear, but is considered to be due to the thermal characteristics of the PPT fiber. Usually, since PET fibers have heat setting properties, wrinkle states are memorized by tumbler drying, which is not preferable for W / W properties. However, in the present invention, it is presumed that the use of the PPT fiber was able to improve it. PPT fibers have the property of being thermally stretched by heating, and the temperature starts from a state exceeding the glass transition point. When the tumbler is dried after water-based washing, the PPT fiber, which is a highly shrinkable component, stretches in the tumbler due to the drying heat, but the PET fiber that is the counterpart of the bimetal structure does not stretch. Become. When it is removed from the tumbler and cooled, the original crimp structure is restored again. However, for the W / W property, it is estimated that the movement of the apparent length of the yarn inhibits the heat setting property and is effective in preventing wrinkles.

  In the present invention, the fabric may be subjected to form stabilization processing as necessary. There is no particular limitation on the form stabilization method.

  Hereinafter, the woven fabric of the present invention will be described in detail in Examples. Evaluation methods in the examples are shown below.

(Evaluation methods)
(1) Average elongation rate:
It measured by the elongation rate A method (constant speed elongation method) of JIS L-1096 (2004). The higher the value, the better the stretchability.

(2) Growth recovery rate:
It was measured by the elongation recovery rate A method (repeated constant speed elongation method) of JIS L-1096 (2004). The higher the value, the higher the elongation recovery rate and the better.

(3) W / W property:
Selection processing method is JIS L-1096 (2004) 8.23.1 A method Net use tumble drying Completely repeated 10 times, then hung on a hanger and left to stand overnight, judgment is based on AATCC 124-1984 5-step replica method Every decision was made. Evaluation was made from grade 5 (good) to grade 1 (poor).

[Example 1]
Homo-PTT having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.40 and homo-PET having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 were melted separately, and a composite ratio (weight) was obtained from a composite spinneret with 24 holes at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. %) Was discharged at 50:50, and was taken up at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min. Further, the obtained undrawn yarn was heated at a hot roll temperature of 75 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 170 ° C., and a draw ratio of 3 ° C. using a hot roll-hot plate drawing machine (filing length: 20 cm, surface roughness: 3S). The film was stretched 3 times, and then continuously wound relaxed by 0.9 times without taking up once to obtain a stretched yarn of 55 dtex and 24 filaments. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties, and no yarn breakage occurred.

  Next, as a short fiber of the long / short fiber composite yarn, a cotton (average fiber length: 38 mm) 100% is processed through a normal spinning method to prepare 0.5 g / m of roving yarn. A fleece was spun through the large diameter part. On the other hand, the above-mentioned side-by-side type composite fiber yarns are respectively creeled, passed through a tension adjusting device (tenser), passed through a feed device, passed through the gap between the small diameter portion of the stepped top roller and the bottom roller, and combined with the fleece. The sample was wound around a pipe thread through a ring traveler at a twist number of 14.8 T / in (K = 3.2). At this time, the feed rate ratio of the fleece and side-by-side type composite fiber yarn from the feed device is Vs / Vf = 1.03, the core component is the side-by-side type composite fiber yarn, and the sheath component is the short fiber 30s of the present invention. A composite yarn was obtained.

(Fabric evaluation)
The above-mentioned long / short fiber composite yarn is used for the weft, and the warp yarn is made of 30 / 1S of 100% polyester fiber and woven with a 2/2 twill texture at a green density of 109 × 73 / 2.54 cm. A woven fabric made of long and short fiber composite spun yarn was obtained. Nep did not occur and the process passability was good. The obtained raw machine was subjected to relaxing heat treatment with an open soaper at a temperature of 95 ° C., dried, intermediately set at a dry heat of 180 ° C., and dyed at a temperature of 120 ° C. Then, it was finished and set by a pin tenter method with 160 ° C. dry heat. The density of the finished product was 145 × 77 pieces / 2.54 cm. As a result of sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having a soft stretch in the weft direction, no wrinkles, smooth and glossy, and a soft texture. The weft stretch rate of this fabric was 16%, and the recovery rate was 73%. Further, the W / W property was a third grade, which was a level with no practical problem.

[Example 2]
The base of Example 1 was changed to a 12-hole composite spinneret, and the other conditions were the same, and 33 dtex, 12 filament drawn yarn was obtained. Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties, and no yarn breakage occurred. Next, the filament yarn was used as the core yarn of the long / short fiber composite yarn, and the sheath / short fiber of the long / short fiber composite yarn was 100% cotton, and a 40 / 1S long / short fiber composite yarn was obtained in the same process as in Example 1. .

(Fabric evaluation)
The above-mentioned long / short fiber composite yarn is used for the weft, and the warp yarn is made of 100/1% polyester fiber 40 / 1S, and a plain fabric is woven at a raw machine density of 100 × 80 / 2.54 cm. A fabric made of composite spun yarn was obtained. Nep did not occur and the process passability was good. The obtained raw machine was subjected to relaxing heat treatment with an open soaper at a temperature of 95 ° C., dried, intermediately set at a dry heat of 180 ° C., and dyed at a temperature of 120 ° C. Then, finish setting was performed by a pin tenter method with 160 ° C. dry heat. The density of the finished product was 125 × 83 pieces / 2.54 cm. As a result of sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having a soft stretch in the weft direction, no wrinkles, smooth and glossy, and a soft texture. Further, the weft stretch rate of this fabric was 12%, and the recovery rate was 78%. Further, the W / W property was grade 4, which was a level with no practical problem.

[Example 3]
Using the filament of Example 2 as the core yarn, and using the raw cotton mixed with polyester fiber 1.4DTEX, 38 mm and cotton (average fiber length 38 mm) 4: 6 as the sheath yarn, the same process as Example 1 was used. A 1S long / short fiber composite yarn was obtained.

(Fabric evaluation)
The above-mentioned long / short polyester fiber 1 composite yarn is used as the weft, and the warp is made of polyester fiber 65 / cotton 45 / 1S, and a plain fabric is woven at a green density of 105 × 80 / 2.54 cm. A woven fabric composed of a long and short polyester fiber 1 composite spun yarn was obtained. Nep did not occur and the process passability was good. The obtained raw machine was subjected to a relaxing heat treatment at 95 ° C. using an open soaper, and after drying, intermediately set at a dry heat of 180 ° C. and dyed at a temperature of 120 ° C. Then, finish setting was performed by a pin tenter method with 160 ° C. dry heat. The density of the finished product was 130 × 83 pieces / 2.54 cm. As a result of sensory evaluation, the surface of the obtained woven fabric was a woven fabric having a soft stretch in the weft direction, no wrinkles, smooth and glossy, and a soft texture. Further, the weft stretch rate of this fabric was 10%, and the recovery rate was 80%. Further, the W / W property was 3.5 grade, which was a level with no practical problem.

[Comparative Example 1]
A homo-PET having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.40 and a homo-PET having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 were melted separately, and the compound ratio (wt%) was 50:50 from a 12-hole compound spinneret at a spinning temperature of 295 ° C. Was taken out at a spinning speed of 1450 m / min, and 145 dtex and a 12 filament side-by-side composite structure undrawn yarn was obtained. Further, using the same hot roll-hot plate stretching machine as that used in Example 1, the hot roll temperature was 89 ° C., the hot plate temperature was 150 ° C., and the draw ratio was 2.63 times. I tried to roll up with the next relaxing rate. When the relaxation rate was 0.9 times, reverse winding occurred on the hot roll, and thread breakage occurred frequently. Next, winding was attempted at a relaxation rate of 0.95 times, but in the same manner, the yarn was reversely wound and thread breakage occurred. Accordingly, the yarn was wound at a relaxation rate of 1 (no relaxation) to obtain a drawn yarn of 55 dtex and 12 filaments.

  Next, it was united with the same short fibers as in Example 1 to obtain a long and short fiber composite yarn having a count of 30 s, in which the core component was a latent crimpable polyester composite fiber and the sheath component was a short fiber.

(Fabric evaluation)
Subsequently, the weft yarn of Example 1 was replaced with the long and short fiber composite spun yarn obtained above, and weaving was performed according to the same standard as Example 1. The obtained raw machine was dyed and processed under the same conditions as in Example 1, and the fabric stretch rate was measured. As a result, the weft direction was 3% and lacked stretchability. Moreover, the W / W property was a level that was practically unacceptable to the second grade.

  The woven fabric of the present invention can be made into a woven fabric excellent in W / W property by using the above-mentioned long and short fiber composite yarn containing polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers as warp and / or weft. Suitable for shirting.

Claims (6)

  A composite fiber in which two types of polyester polymers, which are polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers and / or one of polyesters mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded side-by-side along the fiber length direction. A core-sheath structure long / short fiber composite yarn using long fibers and short fibers mixed in a ratio of polyester fiber: cotton from 0: 100 to 40:60 is used as warp and / or weft. A fabric characterized by that.   A composite fiber in which two types of polyester polymers, which are polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers and / or one of polyesters mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded side-by-side along the fiber length direction. A core-sheath structure long / short fiber composite yarn using short fibers mixed with a ratio of polyester fiber: cotton from 0: 100 to 40:60 for sheath yarn is used for warp or weft and is in conflict. A woven fabric comprising a spun yarn having a ratio of polyester fiber: cotton of 100: 0 to 40:60 as weft or warp.   The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a woven fabric elongation rate in a direction using the core-sheath structure long / short fiber composite yarn is 10% to 20%.   The woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the wash and wear property is grade 3 or higher.   The shirt fabric which consists of a textile fabric in any one of Claims 1-4.   A dress shirt fabric comprising the woven fabric according to claim 1.