JP2003268639A - False-twisted processed yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a false-twisted processed yarn giving a stretchable cloth having stiffness, body and resilience, exhibiting a flat appearance and having a soft and dry feeling, and a method for producing the same. <P>SOLUTION: The false-twisted processed yarn is characterized by interlacing a polyester composite fiber of a side by side type or a sheath core type having an eccentric core, consisting of one of the constituting components consisting mainly of a polyethylene terephthalate and another constituting component consisting mainly of a polytrimethylene terephthalate, with a polyester fiber and then false-twisting. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2003,JPO

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a false twist textured yarn and a method for producing the same.

More specifically, the false twisted yarn of the present invention is used for higher-order processing and used for clothes or the like to obtain a stretched fabric having a flat feeling, excellent shape stability and a dry feeling. TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a false twist textured yarn and a method for producing the same.

[0003]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a stretch material, a polyurethane-based elastic fiber serving as a core yarn is aligned with polyamide fiber or polyethylene terephthalate fiber, and then false-twisted. It has been used for general clothing such as innerwear and outerwear. In this way, when forming a knitted fabric with the processed yarn using the polyurethane elastic fiber as the core yarn, the fit property,
Although it is possible to obtain a material having excellent stretchability, there are drawbacks that the surface of the fabric is wrinkled, the fabric becomes thick, and the texture becomes hard.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a flat appearance with a firmness, elasticity, and repulsion that cannot be obtained by the conventional techniques when it is subjected to high-order processing and used for clothes and the like. Another object of the present invention is to provide a false twisted textured yarn capable of obtaining a stretch fabric having a soft and dry touch and a method for producing the same.

[0005]

The false twisted yarn of the present invention is
The following means are adopted to solve the above problems.

That is, one of the constituent components is polyethylene terephthalate as a main component, and the other constituent component is mainly polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is a side-by-side type or eccentric sheath / core type polyester-based composite fiber and polyester fiber. Is a false-twisted yarn characterized by being entangled and false-twisted.

Further, the method for producing the false twist textured yarn of the present invention is
The following means are adopted to solve the above problems.

That is, one of the constituent components is a polyethylene terephthalate main component, and the other constituent component is a polytrimethylene terephthalate main component, which is a side-by-side type or eccentric sheath / core type polyester-based composite fiber and its elongation. Is a method for producing a false twist textured yarn, which comprises aligning and intertwining a polyester fiber having a degree of elongation higher than that of the polyester-based composite fiber, and then performing false twisting.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described below. FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of the false twist textured yarn of the present invention. The false twisted yarn (c) of the present invention is substantially non-twisted, and the polyester-based composite fiber (a) that becomes the core yarn is twist-coated with the polyester fiber (b) that becomes the sheath yarn and entangled. The form which has a part (d) is shown.

The false twisted yarn of the present invention is a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type in which one of the constituent components contains polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and the other constituent component contains polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component. A polyester-based composite fiber is used.

Since the polymers having different intrinsic viscosities are adhered to each other in the polyester-based conjugate fiber, stress concentrates on the high viscosity side during spinning and drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side is largely shrunk due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the difference in heat shrinkage in the heat treatment step of the cloth, and distortion occurs in the single fiber to take a three-dimensional coil crimp form. It can be said that the diameter of the three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per single fiber length are determined by the shrinkage difference (including the elastic recovery rate difference) between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component. Is small, and the number of coils per unit fiber length is large.

Coil crimps required as a stretch material have a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent elongation characteristics and good appearance), and good coil sag resistance (expansion and contraction). The amount of coil fatigue depending on the number of times is small and the stretch retention property is excellent. Furthermore, the expansion and contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion and contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as the fulcrum. The polymer used for is required to have high extensibility and recoverability. Therefore, the inventors of the present invention have conducted extensive studies in order to satisfy the above properties without impairing the properties of polyester. As a result, the low shrinkage component contains polyethylene terephthalate as a main component, and the high shrinkage component contains polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component. It was found that the above polyester-based composite fiber was used. The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber has mechanical properties and chemical properties equivalent to those of polyethylene terephthalate fiber and polybutylene terephthalate fiber, which are typical polyester fibers, and is extremely excellent in elongation recovery.
This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the crystal structure of polytrimethylene terephthalate has a gauche-gauche structure (the molecular chain is bent at 90 degrees).
Furthermore, because the density of constraint points due to the interaction (stacking, parallel) between benzene rings is low and the flexibility is high, it is considered that the molecular chain is easily extended and recovered by the rotation of the methylene group.

The polyethylene terephthalate, which is a constituent component of the polyester-based composite fiber used in the false twisted yarn of the present invention, is preferably a polymer component having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit.

That is, as the polyethylene terephthalate in the present invention, a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and ethylene glycol as a main glycol component is preferable. However, it is also preferable that the content of the other copolymerizable component capable of forming an ester bond is 20 mol% or less, and that of 10 mol% or less is more preferable. As the copolymerizable compound, for example, sulfonic acid, sodium sulfonic acid,
Sulfuric acid, sulfuric acid ester, diethyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, aliphatic sulfonic acid, ethanesulfonic acid, chlorobenzenesulfonic acid, alicyclic sulfonic acid, isophthalic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dimer acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, decanedicarboxylic acid Dicarboxylic acid such as acid, p-
Dicarboxylic suns such as hydroxybenzoic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acids such as ε-caprolactone, diols such as triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, hydroquinone and bisphenol A are preferably used.

If necessary, titanium dioxide serving as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina serving as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivative serving as an antioxidant, and a coloring pigment may be added.

The polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is another constituent of the polyester-based conjugate fiber used in the false twisted yarn of the present invention, is preferably a polymer component containing a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit.

That is, as the polytrimethylene terephthalate in the present invention, a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3 propanediol as a main glycol component is preferable. However, it is also preferable that the content of the other copolymerizable component capable of forming an ester bond is 20 mol% or less, and that of 10 mol% or less is more preferable. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include diphthalic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,
Diols such as butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol are preferably used.

If necessary, titanium dioxide serving as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina serving as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivative serving as an antioxidant, and a coloring pigment may be added.

In the present invention, the intrinsic viscosity of polytrimethylene terephthalate is 1. From the viewpoint of expressing a coiled crimp and obtaining desired stretchability when forming a knitted fabric.
It is preferably 0 or more, more preferably 1.2 or more.

The polyester composite fiber used in the present invention has a single yarn cross-sectional shape of a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type.

Unless the cross-sectional shape is a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type, when heat is applied to the yarn,
There is a problem that the coiled crimp does not appear and the yarn cannot be stretched.

The weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester composite fiber is in the range of 30/70 or more and 70/30 or less from the viewpoint of spinnability and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. It is preferable.

The fineness of the polyester composite fiber is preferably in the range of 10 decitex or more and 60 decitex or less depending on the purpose of use.

The polyester-based composite fiber has a single yarn fineness of 0.
The range of 4 decitex or more and 2.5 decitex or less is preferable.

Polyester fiber is used for the false twisted yarn of the present invention.

The polyester fiber used in the present invention is
The main components are polyethylene terephthalate, polymethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate,
A filament fiber made of either polybutylene terephthalate or polyhexamethylene terephthalate is preferable. From the viewpoint of iron resistance, polyethylene terephthalate fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate is preferable.

From the viewpoint of producing a core-sheath structure by causing a difference in yarn length between the polyester fiber and the polyester-based composite fiber, the elongation of the polyester fiber is preferably larger than that of the polyester-based composite fiber.

The elongation difference between the polyester fiber and the polyester-based composite fiber is preferably 50% or more.

That is, it is preferable that the following relation is satisfied.

Elongation (%) of polyester fiber-Elongation (%) of polyester-based composite fiber ≧ 50 (%) In the present invention, the polyester fiber is used from the viewpoint of easily developing a core-sheath structure because the elongation is large. It is preferably a highly oriented undrawn yarn rather than a drawn yarn.

The monofilament cross-sectional shape of the polyester fiber used in the present invention is preferably circular, triangular, flat, hexagonal or the like.

The fineness of the polyester fiber is preferably in the range of 30 decitex or more and 1000 decitex or less depending on the purpose of use.

From the viewpoint of obtaining soft touch properties, the single fiber fineness of the polyester fiber is preferably 3 decitex or less.

The false twisted yarn of the present invention is obtained by false twisting the polyester composite fibers and the polyester fibers intertwined with each other. If the polyester-based composite fiber and the polyester fiber are not entangled with each other, the core yarn and the sheath yarn are easily separated, and there is a problem that the yarn length difference between the core yarn and the sheath yarn becomes large and fluff or tarmi occurs. . In particular, when the false twisted yarn of the present invention is subjected to additional twisting, the yarn is squeezed by a traveler of a twisting machine and becomes a nep, or a white streak is formed when a knitted fabric is formed.

Next, the method for producing the false twist textured yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the method for producing the false twist textured yarn of the present invention.

In the method for producing a false twisted yarn of the present invention, the polyester-based composite fiber and the polyester fiber are aligned, entangled and then false twisted.

In FIG. 2, the polyester-based composite fiber 1 and the polyester fiber 2 are aligned, and an overfeed is given between the feed roller 3 and the feed roller 5, so that the polyester-based composite fiber can withstand the false twisting process. Entanglement to obtain fixation between the polyester fibers.

The overfeed given between the feed roller 3 and the feed roller 5 is 0.5% or more and 5.0% or more.
The following is preferable.

During the confounding process, the pressure of the nozzle 4 is
The pressure is preferably 0.1 MPa or more and 0.5 MPa or less.

Nozzle 4 used for the confounding process in the present invention
Preferred are fluid agitation nozzles (so-called "Taslan" nozzles) or interlaced nozzles.

Next, when false twisting is performed, the polyester fiber having a high elongation is selectively stretched, and a yarn length difference is generated between the polyester fiber having a low elongation and the polyester composite fiber having a low elongation. It is possible to develop a core-sheath structure in which the fiber is the core yarn and the polyester fiber having high elongation is the sheath yarn.

From the viewpoint of exhibiting an excellent core-sheath structure, the difference in elongation between the polyester fiber and the polyester-based composite fiber used is preferably 50% or more.

That is, it is preferable to satisfy the following equation.

Elongation (%) of Polyester Fiber-Elongation (%) of Polyester Composite Fiber ≧ 50 (%) The entangled yarn is twisted between the feed roller 5 and the delivery roller 8 by the twisted body 7. Hot plate 6 while being false twisted
Heat set on top. As the twisted body used for false twisting, any of a pin, a friction disc, and a belt may be used.

From the viewpoint of obtaining sufficient crimp and preventing the occurrence of double twist which causes yarn breakage, the false twist number T (T / m)
Is a false twist coefficient K given by the following equation: 12000 to 320
It is preferable to set it to be 00.

False twist coefficient K = T × D ^1/2 D: Fineness (dtex) of false twisted yarn A sufficient crimp is provided to prevent single yarn breakage, yarn breakage, and fluffing due to heat deterioration of the fiber. From this point of view, the temperature during false twisting is preferably 140 ° C. or higher and 210 ° C. or lower.

The false twisted processed yarn passes through the delivery roller 8 and is taken up by the take-up roller 9.

It is also preferable that the processed yarn of the present invention is subjected to actual twisting and further made into a woven fabric, and then subjected to weight reduction processing or the like to give an appropriate elasticity.

The woven or knitted fabric using the false twisted yarn of the present invention has a soft surface touch, a firm waist, a bulge, a lightweight feeling, a refreshing feeling,
Excellent stretchability and morphological stability, especially for clothing, especially outerwear such as jackets and bottoms, dresses,
It can be used as stretch material for women's clothing such as skirts and arm warmers, sports clothing such as jerseys, athletic wear, and ski wear.

[0051]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples.

The intrinsic viscosity (η) in the examples was determined by the following method. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples. [Intrinsic Viscosity (η)] 0.10 g of a sample was dissolved in 10 ml of orthochlorophenol and measured at a temperature of 25 ° C using an Ostwald viscometer.

[Example 1] Polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.52 were separately melted and spun at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C through a 24-hole composite spinneret. / Polytrimethylene terephthalate is discharged at a weight ratio of 50/50, and the spinning speed is 14
It was taken up at 00 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn of 165 dtex24 filament. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate stretching machine, hot roll temperature 70 ° C., hot plate temperature 145
Stretching was performed at a draw ratio of 3.0 ° C. to obtain 56 dtex24 filaments and a side-by-side type polyester composite fiber (stretched yarn) having an elongation of 30.5%.

The obtained polyester-based composite fiber was used as a core yarn, 106 dtex36 filament, and elongation of 168.
Using 2% polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn as the sheath yarn, the core yarn and the sheath yarn are aligned under the following conditions using the process shown in FIG. A twisted yarn was obtained.

Nozzle: Interlaced nozzle Overfeed rate in nozzle section: + 2% Pneumatic pressure of nozzle: 0.2 MPa Processing speed: 400 m / min (yarn speed on delivery roller 8) Draw ratio: 1.15 Twisted body: Friction Disc (ceramic) False twist direction: S D / Y ratio: 1.60 False twist number: 2420 T / m (K = 28634) Heater: Hot plate (2.5 m) False twist processing temperature: 190 ° C. Obtained processing Using yarn, knitting with a 28 gauge, 1-knitting machine, dyeing with a disperse dye for polyester, and finish processing, resulting in a bulky and flat appearance, and firmness,
A knitted fabric having a dry feel and good stretchability and suitable for a knit for women was obtained.

Further, the obtained false twisted yarn was used as a weft to form a woven fabric, followed by relaxing scouring with hot water at 97 ° C. and finish heat setting at 160 ° C. to obtain a 1/3 twill woven fabric. A woven fabric using the false twisted textured yarn of the present invention has a bulky and flat appearance, has a soft and dry feel together, is excellent in elasticity, and has good stretchability,
It was suitable for women's clothing.

Example 2 Polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.52 were separately melted and spun at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. from a 24-hole composite spinneret. / Polytrimethylene terephthalate is discharged at a weight ratio of 50/50, and the spinning speed is 14
The undrawn yarn of 495 dtex34 filament was obtained by drawing at 00 m / min. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate stretching machine, hot roll temperature 70 ° C., hot plate temperature 145
Stretching was carried out at a stretching ratio of 3.0 ° C. to obtain 165 dtex34 filaments and a side-by-side type polyester composite fiber (stretched yarn) having an elongation of 30.1%.

Next, the polyester-based composite fiber obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 was used as a core yarn, and 220 dtex48 filaments and polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn having an elongation of 158.1% were used as sheath yarns. Using the steps shown, the core yarn and the sheath yarn were aligned under the following conditions, entangled and false twisted to give a false twisted yarn.

Nozzle: Interlaced nozzle Overfeed rate in nozzle section: + 2% Pneumatic pressure of nozzle: 0.2 MPa Processing speed: 400 m / min (yarn speed on delivery roller 8) Draw ratio: 1.15 Twisted body: Friction Disc (ceramic) False twisting direction: S D / Y ratio: 1.52 False twisting number: 1420 T / m (K = 25986) Heater: Hot plate (2.5 m) False twisting temperature: 195 ° C. Forming a fabric using twisted yarn as weft yarn,
Subsequently, the mixture was relaxed and scoured with hot water at 97 ° C., and finally heat-fixed at 160 ° C. to obtain 1/3 twill fabric. A woven fabric using the processed yarn of the present invention has a bulky and flat appearance, is rich in elasticity, resilience and resilience, has a soft and dry feeling, has good stretchability, and is suitable for an outerwear of medium-thickness Met.

[Comparative Example 1] Polyethylene terephthalate stretched yarn of 56 dtex24 filament was used as a sheath yarn and 33 dtex of polyurethane elastic fiber as a core yarn.
Under the following conditions, the core yarn and the sheath yarn were aligned and subjected to entanglement treatment and false twisting to obtain a textured yarn. The polyurethane fiber was pre-drafted before the polyethylene terephthalate stretched yarn was aligned.

Pre-draft of polyurethane fiber: 3.0 Nozzle: Interlaced nozzle Overfeed rate of nozzle section: + 2% Pneumatic pressure of nozzle: 0.2 MPa Processing speed: 400 m / min (yarn speed on delivery roller 8) Draw ratio : 1.15 Twisted body: Friction disk (ceramic) False twist direction: S D / Y ratio: 1.75 False twist number: 3680 T / m (K = 28089) Heater: Hot plate (2.5 m) False twist Processing temperature: 190 ° C Using the obtained false twist textured yarn, knitting with a 28 gauge, 1-knitting machine, dyeing with a disperse dye for polyester, and finishing, resulting in poor elasticity, poor resilience, and hard texture ,
The knitted fabric has poor stretchability.

[Comparative Example 2] 56tex24 filament, polyethylene terephthalate stretched yarn having an elongation of 29.3% was used as a core yarn, and 106dtex36 filament used in Example 1 and polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented unstretched having an elongation of 168.2% were used. Using the yarn as the sheath yarn, the core yarn and the sheath yarn were aligned under the following conditions and subjected to the entanglement treatment and the false twisting process to obtain the false twisted yarn, using the process shown in FIG.

Nozzle: Interlaced nozzle Overfeed rate of nozzle section: + 2% Pneumatic pressure of nozzle: 0.2 MPa Processing speed: 400 m / min (yarn speed on delivery roller 8) Draw ratio: 1.15 Twisted body: Friction Disk (ceramic) False twisting direction: S D / Y ratio: 1.60 False twisting number: 2420 T / m (K = 28634) Heater: Hot plate (2.5 m) False twisting temperature: 190 ° C. Knitted with a 28 gauge, single-pitch knitting machine using twisted yarn, dyed with a disperse dye for polyester, and as a result of finishing processing, there is a feeling of repulsion, but the texture is hard and the knitted fabric lacks stretchability. It was

[Comparative Example 3] The same 56 dtex24 filaments as used in Example 1, side-by-side type polyester composite fiber (drawn yarn) having an elongation of 30.5% was used as a core yarn, and 106 dtex36 filaments and an elongation of 1 were used.
Using 68.2% polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn as the sheath yarn, the core yarn and the sheath yarn were aligned under the following conditions, and false twisting was performed without entanglement treatment to obtain a false twisted yarn. .

Processing speed: 400 m / min (yarn speed on the delivery roller 8) Draw ratio: 1.15 Twisted body: Friction disk (made of ceramic) False twist direction: S D / Y ratio: 1.60 False twist number : 2420 T / m (K = 28634) Heater: Hot plate (2.5 m) False twisting temperature: 190 ° C The obtained false twisted yarn was easy to separate the core yarn and the sheath yarn, and fluffs and tarmi were generated.

The obtained false twisted yarn was knitted with a 28 gauge, 1-pitch knitting machine, dyed with a disperse dye for polyester, and finish-processed. As a result, the fabric surface was bulky but was uneven due to fluff and tarmi Occurred, and a knitted fabric having an inferior appearance quality was obtained. During knitting, a fastener phenomenon occurred due to unraveling due to the fluff and tarmi of the false twisted yarn, and the yarn was frequently broken.

[0067]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION By using the false twisted textured yarn of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a stretch cloth having a firmness, elasticity, repulsion feeling, a flat appearance and a soft and dry touch.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of a false twist textured yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a method for producing a false twist textured yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

(A): Polyester composite fiber (B): Polyester fiber (C): False twisted yarn (D): Entangled part 1: Polyester composite fiber 2: Polyester fiber 3: Feed roller 4: Nozzle 5: Feed roller 6: Hot plate 7: twisted body 8: Delivery roller 9: Take-up roller 10: False twisted yarn

Continued front page    (72) Inventor Hironori Uranaka             1-2-2 Sonoyama, Otsu City, Shiga Prefecture             DuPont Co., Ltd. Shiga Plant F-term (reference) 4L036 MA05 MA15 MA17 MA24 MA26                       MA33 MA39 MA40 PA07 PA18                       PA33 PA42 PA46 RA04 UA01                       UA06

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A side-by-side type or eccentric sheath / core type polyester-based composite fiber and polyester fiber in which one of the constituents contains polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and the other constituent contains polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main constituent. The false twisted yarn is characterized by being entangled with and false twisted. 2. The false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate of the polyester-based composite fiber is 30/70 to 70/30. 3. A side-by-side type or eccentric sheath / core type polyester-based composite fiber in which one of the constituents is mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate and the other constituent is mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, and its elongation. Is aligned with a polyester fiber having a greater elongation than the polyester-based composite fiber, and after being entangled,
A method for producing a false twist textured yarn, which comprises performing false twist. 4. The method for producing a false twisted yarn according to claim 3, wherein the elongation difference between the polyester fiber and the polyester-based composite fiber is 50% or more. 5. A false twist coefficient K given by the following general formula (I):
Is 12000 or more and 32000 or less, The manufacturing method of the false twist textured yarn of Claim 3 or 4 characterized by the above-mentioned. K = T × D ^1/2 …………… (I) T: Number of false twists (T / m) D: Fineness of false twisted yarn (dtex)