JP3915398B2 - fabric - Google Patents

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a plant-based fiber fabric having a high softness that is comfortable to wear and a high stretch.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Conventionally, fabrics made of plant fibers such as cotton and rayon are widely used as fabrics for jeans and work clothes because they are hygroscopic and have a natural feeling on the surface.
[0003]
However, there is a problem that there is no stretch due to the uniqueness of the fiber, the texture is hard, and it is stiff and difficult to wear. In addition, as washing is performed, the shrinkage increases and the dimensional stability is lacking. Further, the color is lost by washing and other white objects are stained, and the dyeing fastness is not good.
[0004]
For these reasons, it is conceivable that plant fibers can be mixed with elastic fibers such as polyurethane to give stretch properties, but polyurethane deteriorates with chlorine in tap water, and it can be processed by stone washer processing such as jeans. When the color is lost, the product is deteriorated by a reducing agent or alkali, so that it is difficult to commercialize the product.
[0005]
On the other hand, when polyester is mixed, there are few such problems of chemical resistance, but the essential stretchability is insufficient.
[0006]
For example, a polyester false twisted yarn is bulky but its stretchability is quite insufficient.
[0007]
Further, in the conventional side-by-side type composite polyester, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 44-2504 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-308271 disclose a side-by-side composite of polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) having an intrinsic viscosity difference or an intrinsic viscosity difference. Yarn, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 5-295634 describes side-by-side composite yarns of non-copolymerized PET and copolymer PET having higher shrinkage than that. If such a side-by-side type composite fiber is used, a yarn with a certain degree of stretchability can be obtained, but the stretchability when made into a woven fabric becomes insufficient, and it is difficult to obtain a satisfactory stretchable fabric. There is a problem of lack of stability. This is because the conventional side-by-side type composite yarn has a low crimping ability in restraining the fabric, or the crimp is easy to get loose due to external force.
[0008]
The side-by-side type composite yarn does not use the stretch property due to the expansion and contraction of the fiber itself like a polyurethane fiber, but uses the expansion and contraction of the three-dimensional coil caused by the difference in contraction rate between the composite polymers for the stretch property. Yes. For this reason, for example, when subjected to heat treatment under fabric restraint where the shrinkage of the polymer is restricted, the heat is fixed as it is, and the coil does not fully develop because it loses further shrinkage, and the above problem has occurred. It was.
[0009]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Therefore, the present invention has a stretch property that is not obtained by the above-described conventional technology, has a soft texture, has a functionality excellent in wearing comfort, and has dimensional stability and high dyeing fastness. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester / vegetable fiber mixed fabric having the following characteristics.
[0010]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In order to solve the above-described problems, the present invention mainly has the following configuration.
[0011]
That is, a sweet twisted yarn of 500 times / m or less composed of a composite fiber filament in which two types of polyester polymers, one of which is polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded side by side along the fiber length direction. 20% to 90% of the weight of the woven fabric, and a woven fabric mixed with spun yarn made of plant fiber, having an average elongation of 15% or more and an average elongation recovery of 70% or more This is a woven fabric.
[0012]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In the woven fabric of the present invention, a polyester side-by-side type composite fiber is used for at least one of the warp and the weft.
[0013]
Side-by-side type composite fibers are bonded with polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, copolymerization components, copolymerization rates, and the like, and crimps are developed due to differences in their elastic recovery characteristics and shrinkage characteristics. In the case of a side-by-side type composite having an intrinsic viscosity difference, stress concentrates on the high intrinsic viscosity side during spinning and drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side contracts greatly due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the heat shrinkage rate difference in the heat treatment process of the fabric, and distortion occurs in the single fiber, resulting in a three-dimensional coil crimp. It can be said that the diameter of this three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per unit fiber length are determined by the contraction difference (including the elastic recovery rate difference) between the high contraction component and the low contraction component. And the number of coils per unit fiber length increases.
[0014]
The coil crimp required as a stretch material has a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent stretch characteristics and good appearance), and good coil sag resistance (depending on the number of stretches) The amount of sag of the coil is small and the stretch retention is excellent), and the hysteresis loss at the time of recovery of extension of the coil is small (excellent elasticity and good fit). While satisfying all these requirements, it has a characteristic as polyester, for example, moderate tension, drape, and high dyeing fastness, so that it can be made into a stretch material excellent in total balance.
[0015]
Here, in order to satisfy the coil characteristics described above, the characteristics of the high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) are important. Since the expansion / contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion / contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as a fulcrum, the polymer used for the high contraction component is required to have high extensibility and recoverability.
[0016]
Accordingly, as a result of intensive studies to satisfy the above-mentioned properties without impairing the properties of the polyester, the present inventors have used a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) as a high shrinkage component. I found. PTT fibers have the same mechanical and chemical characteristics as polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) and polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PBT) fibers, which are typical polyester fibers, and are elastic. Excellent recovery and elongation recovery. This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the crystal structure of PTT is a Gauche-Gauche structure (the molecular chain is bent at 90 degrees), and further, the density of restraint points due to the interaction between benzene rings (stacking, parallel) This is because the molecular chain can be easily stretched and recovered by the rotation of the methylene group.
[0017]
Here, PTT in the present invention is a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as the main glycol component. However, it may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of 20 mol% or less, more preferably 10 mol% or less. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, Although diols, such as cyclohexane dimethanol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, can be mentioned, it is not limited to these. If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments as an antioxidant may be added.
[0018]
In addition, the low shrinkage component (low viscosity component) is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester that has good interfacial adhesion with PTT, which is a high shrinkage component, and has stable yarn-making properties. Considering mechanical properties, chemical properties, and raw material prices, PET capable of forming fibers is preferable.
[0019]
Moreover, the composite ratio of both components is preferably in the range of high shrinkage component: low shrinkage component = 75: 25 to 35:65 (% by weight) in terms of yarn production and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. : The range of 35-45: 55 is more preferable.
[0020]
The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side type composite fiber used in the present invention may be a round cross-section, a triangular cross-section, a multi-lobe cross-section, a flat cross-section, a Dalma cross-section, an X-type cross-section, or any other irregular cross-section. From the balance of the texture, a semi-circular side-by-side with a round cross section, a lightweight side, a hollow side-by-side aiming at heat insulation, a triangular section side-by-side aiming at a dry texture, etc. are preferably used.
[0021]
The single yarn fineness is preferably 1.1 to 10 dtex, more preferably 1.1 to 6 dtex. By setting it to 1.1 dtex or more, the effect of stretchability by crimping can be obtained, and by setting it to 10 dtex or less, a wrinkled feeling can be suppressed.
[0022]
In the present invention, it is preferable from the viewpoint of stretchability and texture that this side-by-side type composite fiber is used in a substantially untwisted to sweet-twisted manner. Substantially no twist is a sweet twist of 500 times / m or less, particularly preferably 300 times / m or less, applied to the warp to improve the weaving property.
[0023]
When the actual twist is applied beyond this, the smooth touch and soft texture are impaired and the texture becomes hard, and the single yarn arrangement is uneven, and the gloss is lost due to irregular reflection of light due to the unevenness.
[0024]
It is important that the polyester stretch fabric of the present invention has a fabric stretch rate of 15% or more for at least one of the processes. The fabric elongation rate is a stretch property parameter defined in “Measurement method” in the examples. When the stretch rate of the fabric is less than 15%, it is impossible to follow the expansion and contraction of the skin during the movement of the human body, and a product with satisfactory comfort cannot be obtained.
Further, the stretch recovery rate of the fabric of the present invention must be 70% or more. When the fabric elongation recovery rate is less than 70%, the fabric does not recover when worn, causing the knees and elbows to sag and become wrinkled. The average elongation rate and the recovery rate in the present invention mean the average values of the warp and weft of the fabric.
[0025]
In the present invention, the mixing ratio of the side-by-side type composite fiber and the plant fiber is 20% to 90% as the weight ratio of the side-by-side type composite fiber in the fabric weight. In view of stretchability and fastness, it is particularly preferable to mix within a range of 30 to 80%. If it is less than 20%, the stretchability and dimensional stability are poor, and if it exceeds 90%, the hygroscopic property and surface change of the plant fiber are poor, which is not preferable.
[0026]
In the present invention, the method of mixing the composite fiber and the plant fiber is not particularly limited. However, as a method for maximizing the effect of the present invention, one or both of the warp yarn and the weft yarn are used. A method of interweaving such a composite fiber independently by untwisting or sweet twisting or a method of twisting with a cotton yarn is preferable. In particular, in the method of weaving, it is preferable from the viewpoint of further improving the dimensional stability that the composite fibers and the plant fibers are alternately arranged in warps and wefts one by one. In addition to simply twisting the composite fiber and the plant fiber, the fine spinning method of spinning the composite fiber to the core yarn and the plant fiber to the sheath yarn is also rational and preferable.
[0027]
In the present invention, a fabric having a fabric basis weight of 200 g / m 2 or more is preferable because it has excellent strength, fit, and functionality as jeans and work clothes. The thing of 250-500 g / square meter is especially preferable. Those less than 200 g / sq.m are thin and flaky, which is not preferable because it may be inappropriate. Those over 500 g / sq.m are heavy and heavy and are generally not preferred.
[0028]
As described above, the use of the woven fabric according to the present invention is particularly preferable because it is most effective for pants such as jeans, slacks and skirts, and outerwear such as work clothes and uniforms.
[0029]
The plant-based fibers referred to in the present invention are plants or regenerated fibers made from plants, and semi-synthetic fibers. Specifically, plant fibers such as cotton and hemp, viscose rayon, cupra, tencel, lyocell, and modal. It is a thing of the concept including semi-synthetic fibers, such as regenerated fiber, acetate, and triacetate.
[0030]
Although the loom used when obtaining the textile fabric of the present invention is not limited, for example, an air jet loom or a rapier room can be used.
[0031]
As the constituent fineness (total fineness) of the woven fabric, a yarn of 220 to 550 decitex is used as a mixed yarn of a composite fiber filament yarn and a plant fiber (spun yarn) as a warp or weft in relation to the basis weight. preferable.
[0032]
As the texture of the woven fabric, surge (twill weave) is most preferable from the viewpoint of stretch and softness, followed by plain weave and warp weave.
[0033]
After weaving, normal heat treatment, intermediate set, dyeing and finishing. In the relaxation heat treatment, it is preferable to set the temperature in the liquid to 80 ° C. or higher so that the crimp of the side-by-side type composite fiber can be fully expressed by overcoming the fabric restraining force. For dyeing, it is preferable to use disperse dyes on the polyester side and indigo dyes or reactive dyes on the cotton side because dyeing fastness can be further enhanced. Further, in the case of jeans, after dyeing and sewing, the dyeing dyed with Stone Wattsshire is partially decomposed so that a faded feeling (fading feeling) is developed.
[0034]
As described above, the woven fabric thus obtained has a stretch, a soft texture, a functionality excellent in wearing comfort, a polyester / plant-based fiber having dimensional stability and high dyeing fastness. Mixed fabrics can be provided.
[0035]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples. The evaluation methods in the examples are as follows.
(Evaluation methods)
(1) Textile average elongation rate It measured by the elongation rate A method (constant speed elongation method) of JIS L-1096. The higher the value, the higher the stretchability and the better. The elongation rates for the warp direction and the weft direction of the fabric were added, and the added value was halved to obtain the average elongation rate.
(2) Average growth recovery rate:
Measured by JIS L-1096 elongation recovery rate A method (repeated constant speed elongation method). The higher the value, the higher the stretchability and the better. Specifically, the elongation recovery rate for each of the warp direction and the weft direction of the fabric was added, and the added value was halved to obtain the average elongation recovery rate.
(3) Soft feeling:
The fabric after dyeing was held in hand, and sensory evaluation by 10 people was performed in three stages as follows.
Judgment display ○: Soft feeling is very good.
[0036]
(Triangle | delta): A soft feeling is the same as a general textile.
[0037]
X: There is no soft feeling.
(4) Dimensional stability:
The rate of dimensional change due to washing of the dyed finished fabric was evaluated according to the JIS-1042G method. The smaller the value, the better the dimensional change. Usually, the dimensional change rate is good if it is 2.5% or less.
(5) Dye fastness:
The fastness to washing of the fabric of the dyed finished product was evaluated according to JIS-L-0844 in five stages. Specifically, Grade 5 is excellent with no contamination or discoloration. Grade 4: Good, Grade 3: Normal, Grade 2: Inferior due to contamination, discoloration, and the like. First grade: Very poor.
Example 1
(Yarn making)
Homo-PTT with intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.40 and homo-PET with intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60 were melted separately, and the composite ratio (wt%) was obtained from a composite spinneret with 24 holes at a spinning temperature of 275 ° C. It was discharged at 50:50, and was taken out at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min to obtain 495 dtex and a 24 filament side-by-side composite structure undrawn yarn. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate drawing machine (filing length: 20 cm, surface roughness: 3S), the hot roll temperature is 75 ° C., the hot plate temperature is 170 ° C., and the draw ratio is 3.3 times, and then drawn once. Without being continuously wound, the yarn was relaxed by 0.9 times continuously to obtain a 165 dtex, 24-filament drawn yarn.
[0038]
Both the spinning and the drawing had good yarn-making properties, and no yarn breakage occurred.
(Weaving)
For the warp and weft, the obtained side-by-side type composite fibers were twisted together with a twist number of 100 t / m and used as 330 dtex, and this was used by twisting with the 30th cotton yarn. Subsequently, the rapier was woven into 2/2 twill at a green machine density of 88 × 73 pieces / 2.54 cm. The weave weight was 330 g / square meter.
[0039]
The mixing ratio is 23% / 23% / 54% in the ratio of PTT / PET to cotton in the side-by-side type composite fiber.
(Dyeing finish)
The obtained raw machine was subjected to a relaxing heat treatment at 95 ° C. with an open soaper, dried, set in the middle at 180 ° C. dry heat, and dyed with blue disperse dye and indigo dye at 130 ° C. and 98 ° C. in two baths. Then, finish setting was performed by a pin tenter method with dry heat of 170 ° C. The density of the finished product was 112 × 95 / 2.54 cm. The finish basis weight was 413 g / square meter.
Comparative Example 1
A woven fabric was finished in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a twisted yarn of 165 dtex and 24 filaments were twisted in the same manner as cotton yarn. The mixing ratio is 46% / 54% with PET / cotton.
Comparative Example 2
A woven fabric was finished in the same manner as in Example 1 except that polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) 100% single yarn was temporarily twisted yarn: 165 dtex and 24 filaments were twisted in the same manner as cotton yarn. The mixing ratio is 46% / 54% with PTT / cotton.
(Evaluation results)
The average elongation of the woven fabric obtained in Example 1 is 22% (warp direction: 21%, weft direction: 23%), and the average elongation recovery rate is 89% (warp direction: 85%, weft direction: 92%). ) And showed very good stretchability. Also, the texture was extremely soft (texture evaluation (soft evaluation): ◯), and at the same time, the dimensional stability was warp direction: 0.3%, weft direction: 0.2%, and dyeing fastness was The discoloration, contamination, and color fading were high physical properties of 4 to 5 grades and high fastness.
[0040]
In Comparative Example 1, the average stretch rate of the fabric was 3.3% (warp direction: 3.0%, weft direction: 3.5%), which was completely unsatisfactory.
[0041]
In Comparative Example 2, the average stretch rate of the fabric is 8.8% (warp direction: 8.4%, weft direction: 9.1%), and the average stretch recovery rate is 40% (warp direction: 43%, Latitude direction: 37%) and inferior.
[0042]
The fabric obtained in Example 1 was sewed on jeans and processed with a stone washer. Although this thing was worn for a long period of time, it showed excellent wearing comfort, high physical properties and high fastness as in the evaluation of the fabric.
Example 2
Side-by-side composite fibers similar to those in Example 1 and cotton 20 count were alternately arranged on warps and wefts, respectively, and weaved and woven into a plain weave. The loom used was an air jet, and weaved into a fabric of 72 × 67 / 2.54 cm in terms of the density of raw machinery. The mixing ratio is 18% / 18% / 64% in the ratio of PTT / PET to cotton in the side-by-side type composite fiber.
[0043]
The obtained raw machine was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1 (however, the color was black). The density of the finished product was 94 × 87 pieces / 2.54 cm. The finish basis weight was 372 g / square meter.
[0044]
The average elongation rate of the fabric obtained in Example 2 was 26% (warp direction: 26%, weft direction: 25%), and the average elongation recovery rate was 90% (warp direction: 88%, weft direction: 92%). There was also a very soft texture (texture evaluation: ◯), and dimensional stability was warp yarn direction: 0.4%, weft direction: 0.3%, and dyeing fastness was discolored and stained Moreover, the color fading was highly functional with grade 4 or higher.
Example 3
A woven fabric was finished in accordance with Example 1 except that the same side-by-side composite fiber as in Example 1 and the regenerated fiber Tencel 30 count were used. The mixing ratio is 21% / 21% / 58% between PTT / PET and Tencel.
[0045]
The obtained raw machine was dyed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The density of the finish was 92 × 86 pieces / 2.54 cm. The finish basis weight was 376 g / square meter.
[0046]
The average elongation of the woven fabric obtained in Example 3 was 22% (warp direction: 20%, weft direction: 24%), and the average elongation recovery rate was 89% (warp direction: 87%, weft direction: 91%). There was also a very soft texture (texture evaluation: ◯), dimensional stability was warp direction: 0.2%, weft direction: 0.2%, and dyeing fastness was discolored, stained, color Even if it fell, it had high functionality of grade 4-5 or higher.
[0047]
The fabric obtained in Example 3 was sewed on work clothes, and this was worn for a long time. As with the evaluation of the fabric, it showed excellent wearing comfort, high physical properties, and high fastness.
[0048]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention, there is a stretch / polyester / plant that has a stretch that could not be obtained by the prior art, has a soft texture, has excellent wear comfort, and has dimensional stability and high dyeing fastness. It is possible to provide a woven fabric for mixed fibers.

Claims (4)

A sweet twisted yarn of 500 times / m or less consisting of a composite fiber filament in which two types of polyester polymers, one of which is polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded side-by-side along the fiber length direction. 20% to 90%, and a woven fabric mixed with a spun yarn made of plant fibers, characterized in that the average elongation is 15% or more and the average elongation recovery is 70% or more. fabric. 2. The fabric according to claim 1, wherein the plant fiber is cotton. The woven fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a finish basis weight is 200 g / square meter or more. The woven fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the use is jeans or work clothes.