JP4506130B2 - Dyed yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a dyed yarn and a method for producing the yarn.

  Polyester, so-called polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as “PET”) has a wide variety of properties because it has various excellent properties including mechanical properties. In addition, it has been desired to impart more excellent stretch properties to woven fabrics and knitted fabrics of polyester-based processed yarns by a recent stretch boom.

  On the other hand, these dyed products are woven into a lattice pattern or a jacquard pattern using various colored yarns, and the finished products are extremely luxurious and have high added value.

However, the processed yarn of these PET fibers (single component) can be dyed itself, but it is originally weak in crimp expression, and is not suitable in fields that require extremely stretch properties such as sports, innerwear, and uniform clothing. It is enough. In addition, the polymer has high rigidity and is crisp and has a hard texture. Furthermore, with processed yarns in which PET fibers are mixed with elastic yarns such as polyurethane fibers, the fastness to dyeing of polyurethane fibers is inferior, and the draping property Applications are greatly limited due to lack of cost and high cost.

  On the other hand, various side-by-side composite fibers of PET components have been proposed. For example, a side-by-side composite yarn of PET having an intrinsic viscosity difference or an intrinsic viscosity difference is proposed (for example, see Patent Documents 1 and 2), and a side-by-side composite yarn of non-copolymerized PET and copolymer PET having higher shrinkage than that is proposed. (For example, see Patent Document 3). If such a side-by-side type composite fiber is used, a yarn having a certain degree of stretchability can be obtained, but there is a problem that the stretchability when made into a woven fabric is insufficient and a satisfactory stretchable woven fabric is difficult to obtain. It was. This is because the side-by-side type composite yarn has a low crimp expression ability in a fabric restraint, or the crimp is easily set by an external force.

  Furthermore, in recent years, a single-component drawn yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) or a raw yarn in which different intrinsic viscosities of PTT are bonded side by side have been proposed. PTT is a polymer compared to PET. The structure is characterized by a soft texture because it has a high number of carbon atoms and therefore has a low melting point and low rigidity. However, the dyeing method of the raw yarn is conventionally known cheese dyeing, that is, the method of dyeing as it is without changing the caliber of the core tube, the yarn is fixed with the dyeing heat in a tension state. It is hardly expressed.

  In addition, a method has been proposed in which over-feeding is performed in advance in a yarn state before dyeing before heat treatment and crimping is performed (for example, see Patent Document 4). However, although this method certainly produces some degree of crimping, it can be continuously processed while the yarn is running, but due to the mechanism of the apparatus, the heat treatment time is less than 1 second and is extremely short, and overfeed is at most. Since only 10 to 20% can be taken and the heater is dry heat, the amount of heat is weaker than that of dyeing heat (wet heat), so that there is a limit to the expression of crimp, and the stretch property has not been sufficiently exhibited. Furthermore, such a method is a process of one yarn and one yarn, and there is a problem that it takes time, processing efficiency is low, and processing cost is high.

  In order to solve this problem, the method of dyeing in a normal husk state produces crimps in a free state, so that good stretchability can be obtained, but the multifilaments of the yarn are entangled with each other during dyeing. Since the yarn cannot be taken out and the cone cannot be raised, the processability is poor and this method cannot be applied.

As described above, there are no dyed yarns that have high crimp characteristics, excellent stretch properties, and a soft texture that is excellent in processability, and methods for efficiently producing them. It was.
Japanese Examined Patent Publication No. 44-2504 JP-A-4-308271 JP-A-5-295634 Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2003-020530

  The object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and has an extremely high stretchability and recoverability, a soft and bulky texture, and efficiently produces this with good processability. It is an object of the present invention to provide a dyed yarn and a method for producing the yarn.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention employs the following configuration. That is,
(1) One is a polyester component (A) composed mainly of polytrimethylene terephthalate, in the other side-by-side type polyester polymer along the fiber length direction is a polyester component mainly of polyethylene terephthalate (B) A multi-filament of composite composite fiber, a polyester multi-filament pre-dyed yarn mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, and the pre-dyed yarn is twisted with a twist coefficient (K) of 700 to 9000, And the stretch elongation rate is 20% or more, the stretch elastic modulus is 70% or more, and the composite ratio of the polyester component (A) mainly composed of the polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester multifilament is 35 to 65% by weight. The cross section of the polyester multifilament is flat Dyed yarn characterized by being mushroom type.

However, the twist coefficient (K) = T × (DT) ^1/2 ,
T: Number of twists (times / m), DT: Total yarn fineness (decitex).

(2) A polyester polymer, one of which is a polyester component (A) mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the other is a polyester component (B) mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate, is melt-spun from the same die, and the polyester component (a), so occupying the total weight proportion of 35% to 65% by weight relative to the polyester component (B), the fiber along the length of conjugated in a side-by-side type, then stretched, then twist factor Twist 700-9000, wind it up without setting it in a twisted state, treat it with wet heat of 70 ° C or higher in this state, then dye it with disperse dye at a temperature of 110 ° C-140 ° C and dry The dyed yarn production method according to the above (1), wherein the yarn is finished by finishing.

  INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention can provide a pre-dyed yarn that has an extremely high stretchability and recoverability, a soft and bulky texture, and that can be produced efficiently with high processing efficiency and a method for producing the yarn.

  The polyester mainly composed of PTT in the present invention is a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as a main glycol component. However, it may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of 20 mol% or less, more preferably 10 mol% or less. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, and neopentyl glycol. And diols such as cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol, and polypropylene glycol, but are not limited thereto. If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments as an antioxidant may be added.

  In the present invention, a false twisted yarn is preferable in the PTT homopolymer (PTT 100%) in order to maximize the stretch property which is the greatest feature of the present invention. Further, a stretched yarn of 100% PTT in which those having different intrinsic viscosities of PTT are bonded together is preferable.

  More preferably, two types of polyester polymers, one of which is a polyester component (A) mainly composed of PTT and the other is a polyester component (B) mainly composed of PET, are side-by-side along the fiber length direction. The multifilaments of the bonded composite fibers can have extremely high stretch rate and stretch elastic modulus after crimp expression, have good interface adhesion with PTT, which is a highly shrinkable component, and have stable yarn production, In consideration of mechanical properties, chemical properties, and raw material prices, it is preferable to combine PTT with PET, which is a low shrinkage component (low viscosity component).

  As PET, a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and ethylene glycol as a main glycol component is preferable. However, it is preferable that a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond is contained in a proportion of 20 mol% or less, and more preferred is a component contained in a proportion of 10 mol% or less. Examples of copolymerizable compounds include sulfonic acid, sodium sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, sulfate ester, diethyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, aliphatic sulfonic acid, ethanesulfonic acid, chlorobenzene sulfonic acid, alicyclic sulfonic acid, isophthalic acid, sebacic acid Dicarboxylic acids such as azelaic acid, dimer acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, decanedicarboxylic acid, hydroxycarboxylic acids such as p-hydroxybenzoic acid and ε-caprolactone, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propanediol, Diols such as butanediol, pentanediol, hydroquinone and bisphenol A are preferably used.

  If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments as an antioxidant may be added.

  Further, the composite ratio of the polyester component (A) mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate is preferably 30 to 70% by weight in the pre-dyed yarn. That is, the composite ratio of the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component is high shrinkage component: low shrinkage component = 70: 30 to 30:70 (% by weight) in terms of yarn-making property and dimensional uniformity of the coil in the fiber length direction. The range is preferable, and the range of 65:35 to 45:55 is more preferable.

  The cross-sectional shape of the side-by-side type composite fiber used in the present invention may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobe cross section, a flat cross section, a Dalma type cross section, an X type cross section, or other irregular cross sections. In view of the uniformity of shrinkage, a flat cross-sectional shape having a mushroom-type or dharma-type cross-sectional shape is particularly preferable. In addition, a semicircular side-by-side with a round cross section, a lightweight side, a hollow side-by-side aiming at heat insulation, a triangular cross-section side-by-side aiming at a dry texture, etc. are preferably used.

  The total fineness of the multifilament yarn is not limited, but is preferably 22 to 330 dtex, more preferably 40 to 165 dtex. By making it 22 dtex or more, the effect of stretchability by crimping can be obtained, and by making it 330 dtex or less, the wrinkle feeling can be suppressed. In addition, the fineness in this range is fine, so it is excellent in a high-class feeling, and any form of woven fabric and knitted fabric can be applied. In particular, a knitted fabric having 22 to 84 dtex is preferable for warp knitting and circular knitting, and a woven fabric having 56 to 165 dtex is particularly preferable because it has a delicate texture and stretchability.

  The monofilament fineness of the multifilament yarn is preferably 1.1 to 10 dtex, more preferably 1.1 to 6 dtex, which is not preferred and has a good balance of stretch properties and is in a preferred range.

  The multifilament yarn of the present invention can be drawn yarn or false twisted yarn thereof. By using the drawn yarn as it is, an excellent stretch property can be obtained. On the other hand, the false twist yarn can obtain a larger stretch property than the drawn yarn for both one heater and two heaters.

The dyed yarn in the present invention is one in which the yarn has a twist coefficient (K) of 700 to 9000. However, twist coefficient (K) = T × (DT) ^1/2 , T: number of twists (times / m), DT: total fineness (decitex) of yarn.

  Those having a twisting coefficient of less than 700 have almost no twist, and thus have a crimping property. However, the yarn cannot be entangled after re-dying and cannot be rewound (rewinded). In addition, those having a twist coefficient exceeding 9000 have a strong twist, a low crimp expression, a hard texture and a soft texture cannot be obtained, and there is a twist inversion called belitki and snar, In order to prevent this inversion, it is set by twisting, but this is not preferable because the crimping property is suppressed by this set. Those having a twist coefficient (K) of 700 to 9000 are free from such problems, and do not require crimping, soft texture, rewinding processability, and twist set, and both quality and processability are extremely favorable. is there.

  The dyed yarn in the present invention is a multifilament using the above-described PTT and has a stretch elongation rate of 20% or more and a stretch elastic modulus of 70% or more. Those having a crimp elongation of less than 20% are insufficient in stretch extensibility, and those having an elastic modulus of elasticity of less than 70% are insufficient in stretch recovery.

  In the present invention, the expansion / contraction elongation rate can be exhibited up to about 150% and the expansion / contraction elastic modulus can be exhibited up to about 98%.

  In addition, the expansion-contraction elongation rate and expansion-contraction elastic modulus as used in the field of this invention are calculated | required with the measuring method defined by JIS-1013C method.

Next, the manufacturing method of the present invention will be described.
As described above, a polyester polymer mainly composed of PTT is melt-spun and stretched. For example, the spinning temperature is 285 to 320 ° C., the spinning speed is 900 to 1600 m / min so as to make a normal undrawn yarn, and this is drawn at a draw ratio of 2.5 to 4.0 times. can get.

  In the case of a single yarn of PTT, the polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of PTT is spun using a yarn having a viscosity of about 0.6 to 1.50, and when this is false twisted at 180 to 210 ° C., a high stretch property is obtained. preferable. The intrinsic viscosity (IV value) is measured at 25 ° C. in orthochlorophonol by a conventional method.

  As the false twisting conditions, the false twisting temperature is 150 ° C. or higher and 210 ° C. or lower. As the false twisting machine, the pin false twisting machine is different, because the number of false twists varies depending on the yarn fineness and the like. However, in order to obtain high crimpability, a twist of about 3000 to 4000 turns / m at 56 dtex, and a processing speed of 50 to 150 m / min is preferable because high crimp is obtained.

  In the present invention, a PTT / PTT side-by-side bimetallic composite fiber may be used. In the case of PTT / PTT bimetal, the polymer inherent viscosity (IV) of PTT is a stretched yarn obtained by laminating a high IV of 0.5 to 1.50 and a low IV of 0.5 to 0.7. It is preferable because high stretchability can be obtained.

  More preferably, a PTT / PET bimetal having a high IV with a PTT polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.50 to 1.20, and a PET polymer intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.5 to 0.7. A drawn yarn obtained by laminating a low IV yarn is most preferable because extremely high stretchability can be obtained. In this case, the drawn yarn can be used as it is, and high stretchability can be obtained, so that it can be produced efficiently.

Next, the drawn yarn or false twisted yarn is twisted in a range where the twist coefficient (K) is 700 to 9000. For example, at an average total fineness of 84 dtex, a twist of 76 to 978 times / m is applied. The twisting machine is not particularly limited, and a normal down twister or a double twister can be applied. In addition, in order to prevent a twist nonuniformity, it is good to manage so that the process tension | tensile_strength of each weight may be united at the time of twisting. The working tension is preferably controlled to a tension (g / piece) of 1/8 to 1/12 of the yarn fineness per one yarn because there is no yarn breakage and uniformity.
After twisting, it is wound around the cassette without setting. As the amount of winding of the case, 500 to 1500 g per case is a preferable amount of winding because of the uniformity of crimp expression and the rewind property after dyeing.

  Next, this casserole is treated with wet heat (steam or hot water) of 70 ° C. or higher. A heat treatment temperature of 95 to 130 ° C. is preferable because large crimps are manifested. The treatment time is preferably 20 to 60 minutes in order to obtain crimp uniformity. As the processing machine, it is preferable to use a steam processing machine (such as a normal high-pressure steam kettle) that performs batch processing in a free state or a package dyeing machine that performs processing simultaneously with dyeing.

  Next, in this state, dyeing is performed with a disperse dye at 110 to 140 ° C. As for the dyeing temperature, since PTT has good contrast with PET and dyeability, it is preferable that light colors are dyed at 110 ° C to 130 ° C and dark colors are dyed at 120 ° C to 140 ° C. Then, it is washed with water, reduced, washed with water in a conventional manner, drained with a finishing oil, and dried. Drying is performed at 70 to 130 ° C. with dry heat, and then rewinded (rewinded) into a corn state on the core tube to obtain a dyed yarn product.

  The dyed yarn in the present invention is a multifilament using the above-mentioned PTT and has a stretch elongation of 20% or more and a stretch elastic modulus of 70% or more. When the stretch elongation rate is 20% or more and the stretch elastic modulus is 70% or more, when a knitted fabric is formed, good stretch properties, recoverability and form stability can be obtained, which is suitable as a stretch material. Particularly in sports clothing, innerwear, uniform clothing, etc., the knitted fabric sufficiently follows the stretch, is excellent in wearing comfort, and can suppress the occurrence of cracks in the elbows and knees.

  On the other hand, when the stretch / elongation rate of the processed yarn is less than 20%, a high stretch cannot be obtained, and when the stretch elastic modulus is less than 70%, the recoverability is inferior and warping of the elbows and knees may occur. Neither is preferred.

  As described above, the present invention enables a pre-dyed yarn having an extremely high stretchability and recoverability, a soft and bulky texture, and producing it efficiently with good processability and a method for producing the yarn.

Evaluation used in the examples was evaluated by the following method.
(1) Expansion / contraction elongation rate of dyed yarn JIS-L1013 was evaluated by the C method. The larger the value, the better the extensibility.
(2) Elastic modulus of dyed yarn JIS-L1013 was evaluated by the C method. The higher the value, the better the recovery.
(3) Texture of the pre-dyed yarn Using the pre-dyed yarn as the weft, make the fabric a soft feeling, and the texture of the bulky feeling is determined by 10 texture judges in four stages as follows: did.

In addition, warp uses 56 dtex, 24 filament polyester yarn, scouring,
evaluated.

A: Soft and bulky, extremely good
○: Good
△: Soft and bulky, slightly bad
X: Defect (4) Processability The processability was evaluated by the following judgment about the rewound property (rewinding) after dyeing with a cake.

◎: There is no tangling of the thread and rewinding property is very good.
○: Good
△: Slightly entangled yarn and slightly poor rewind
X: Defect (Example 1)
(1) Raw yarn (yarn making)
A homo-PTT having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 1.38 and a homo-PET having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.59 were melted separately, and the composite ratio (weight%) was obtained from a 36-hole composite spinning flat die at a spinning temperature of 274 ° C. ) It was discharged at 50:50 and taken up at a spinning speed of 1380 m / min to obtain a 276 dtex, 36-filament side-by-side composite structure undrawn yarn and a flat mushroom-type cross-sectional yarn. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate drawing machine (filing length: 20 cm, surface roughness: 3S), the hot roll temperature is 75 ° C., the hot plate temperature is 170 ° C., and the draw ratio is 3.2 times, and then taken once. Then, the yarn was continuously relaxed at 0.9 times and wound to obtain a stretched yarn of 84 dtex and 36 filaments. The drawn yarn was a flat mushroom type cross-sectional yarn having a strength of 4.3 cN / dtex and an elongation of 32%.
(2) Dyeing processing
(1) Twisted yarn The drawn yarn was twisted under the following conditions.

Number of twisted yarns: 800 times / m (twisting coefficient: 7344)
Twisting speed: 250m / min twisting tension: 7.5g / this twisting machine: double-Germany Star type 303 (Murata Machinery Co., Ltd.)
(2) Picking up the cake Then, the twisted drawn yarn was wound on a piece of 300 mm diameter, and 1 kg was wound per piece. The rolled casserole was shaped with an easy-to-handle shape by stopping with a hibiro thread according to a conventional method.

(3) Hydrothermal treatment The casserole was subjected to a wet heat treatment at 120 ° C. for 30 minutes in a normal high-pressure steam treatment machine with a temperature rising time of 40 minutes.

(4) Dyeing Next, this was dyed with a black disperse dye at 130 ° C. for 40 minutes with a heating time of 45 minutes. After dyeing, they were washed with hot water, washed with water, and washed with reduction (85 ° C. × 20 minutes) according to a conventional method.

(5) Finishing Next, 2.5% of the cationic finishing oil was applied (oiling), and then dried at 95 ° C.

This casserole was rewound according to a conventional method to obtain a dyed yarn.
Table 1 shows the evaluation results of this dyed yarn.

(Comparative Example 1)
Instead of the PTT / PET bimetal fiber, 84 dtex, 36 filament drawn yarn of polyester (PET 100% homopolymer) filament was spun and drawn by a usual method. The drawn yarn had a strength of 5.3 cN / dtex and an elongation of 32%.
This was subjected to normal false twisting (1 heater), and except that this was used, wet heat treatment, dyeing and finishing were performed according to Example 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
Instead of PTT / PET bimetal fibers, polyester multifilament yarns (84 decitex, 36 filaments) of side-by-side type composite fibers (bonding with intrinsic viscosities (IV) of 0.77 and 0.54) between PET components of homo-PET Except that was used, wet heat treatment, dyeing and finishing were carried out in accordance with Example 1 in accordance with Example 1.
The evaluation results of Comparative Examples 1 and 2 are also shown in Table 1.

（３）先染め糸の評価結果
表１から明らかなように、実施例１では伸縮伸長率が６１．７％、伸縮弾性率が８４．４％と優れたストレッチ性とストレッチ回復性があり、また、ソフトでかさ高のある風合いをもち、かつ、リワインド性も良好で加工通過性に全く問題がなく、円滑に製造することができた。
一方、比較例１、２ではストレッチ性とストレッチ回復性が不足しており、比較例２では染色後のリワインドで糸がもつれて作業性が悪く、生産することができなかった。

(3) Evaluation results of yarn-dyed yarn As is clear from Table 1, in Example 1, the stretch elongation rate is 61.7% and the stretch elastic modulus is 84.4%, which has excellent stretch properties and stretch recovery properties, Moreover, it had a soft and bulky texture, had good rewinding properties, had no problem in processing passability, and could be produced smoothly.
On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the stretchability and the stretch recovery property were insufficient, and in Comparative Example 2, the yarn was tangled in the rewind after dyeing, so that the workability was poor and could not be produced.

(Examples 2, 3, and 4)
Wet heat treatment, dyeing and finishing were carried out according to Example 1 except that the drawn yarn of PTT / PET bimetal composite fiber of Example 1 was changed to 56 dtex and 24 filaments and the twist coefficient was changed as follows. The results are shown in Table 2.
Example 2 Twisting coefficient: 711 (Number of twisting: 95 times / m)
Example 3 Twisting coefficient: 5012 (Number of twists: 670 times / m)
Example 4 ... Twist coefficient: 8976 (Number of twists: 1200 times / m)
(Comparative Examples 3 and 4)
Using the PTT / PET bimetallic composite fiber drawn yarns of Examples 2 to 4, wet heat treatment, dyeing, and finishing were performed according to Example 1 except that the twist coefficient was changed. The results are also shown in Table 2.
Comparative Example 3 Twisting coefficient: 673 (twisting number: 90 times / m)
Comparative Example 4 Twisting coefficient: 9350 (Number of twists: 1250 times / m)

（４）先染め糸の評価結果
表２から明らかなように、実施例２〜４では伸縮伸長率が６０％〜６４％で、伸縮弾性率が８３％〜８５％で優れたストレッチ性とストレッチ回復性があり、また、ソフトでかさ高のある風合いをもち、かつ、リワインド性も良好で加工通過性に全く問題がなく、円滑に製造することができた。
一方、比較例３〜４は何れも伸縮弾性率性、風合い、加工通過性が劣るものであった。

(4) Evaluation results of yarn-dyed yarn As is clear from Table 2, in Examples 2 to 4, the stretchability and stretch were excellent with the stretch elongation rate of 60% to 64% and the stretch elastic modulus of 83% to 85%. It was recoverable, had a soft and bulky texture, had good rewinding properties, had no problem in processing passability, and could be produced smoothly.
On the other hand, Comparative Examples 3 to 4 were all inferior in stretch elastic modulus, texture, and processability.

Claims (2)

Polyester component one is mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate (A), the composite of the other conjugated in a side-by-side type polyester polymer along the fiber length direction is a polyester component mainly of polyethylene terephthalate (B) Polyester multifilament yarn-dyed yarn mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is a multifilament of fiber, the yarn-dyed yarn is twisted with a twist coefficient (K) of 700 to 9000 and stretched and stretched The elastic modulus is 20% or more, the elastic modulus is 70% or more, and the composite ratio of the polyester component (A) mainly composed of the polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester multifilament is 35 to 65% by weight, The cross-section of the polyester multifilament is flat Dyed yarn, which is a co-form.
However, the twist coefficient (K) = T × (DT) ^1/2 ,
T: Number of twists (times / m), DT: Total yarn fineness (decitex). A polyester polymer, one of which is a polyester component (A) mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate and the other is a polyester component (B) mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate, is melt-spun from the same die, and the polyester component (A ) is, as occupying the total weight proportion of 35% to 65% by weight relative to the polyester component (B), the fiber along the length of conjugated in a side-by-side type, then stretched, then twist factor is 700-9000 Without twisting and setting, it is wound on a casserole, treated in such a state with a heat of 70 ° C. or higher, then dyed with a disperse dye at a temperature of 110 ° C. to 140 ° C., dried and finished. The method for producing a pre-dyed yarn according to claim 1.