JP2008156762A - Textured composite yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a textured composite yarn capable of obtaining fabrics having flat surface touch, tension and stiffness, and soft touch, and have excellent stretchability, and to provide a method for producing the same. <P>SOLUTION: This textured composite yarn being side-by-side type or eccentric sheath-core type polyester conjugate filament yarns which has one constituent consisting mainly of polyethylene terephthalate and the other constituent consisting mainly of polytrimethylene terephthalate. the textured composite yarn satisfies the following (1) to (4): (1) the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate/polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester conjugate filament yarn is 30/70 to 70/30; (2) the single filament fineness of the polyester filaments is 0.3-1.2 dtex; (3) a torque twist number is <40 T/m; and (4) the number of entanglement is 30-200/m. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2008,JPO&INPIT

Description

  The present invention relates to a composite processed yarn that can be used for clothes and the like, and has a flat surface feeling, a firm feeling and a soft texture, and can obtain a fabric excellent in stretchability, and a method for producing the same.

  Conventionally, as a stretch material, composite processed yarns made by blending false-twisted polyurethane elastic fibers and polyamide fibers or polyethylene terephthalate fibers have been proposed and used for general clothing applications such as stockings, socks, inners and outers. (See Patent Document 1). As described above, when a knitted fabric or a woven fabric is formed with a processed yarn using polyurethane elastic fibers as a core yarn, it is possible to obtain a product having excellent fit and stretchability, but the disadvantage that the texture becomes hard due to the thickness. Have.

Polyester composite fibers have also been proposed (see Patent Document 2). However, when a fabric is formed, the surface of the fabric is wrinkled, and a certain degree of stretchability can be obtained, but a flat surface can be obtained. There wasn't.
JP 2001-288632 A JP 2001-288621 A

  An object of the present invention is a fabric that has a flat surface feeling, a firm feeling and a soft texture, which are not obtained by conventional techniques, and is excellent in stretchability when subjected to high-order processing and used for clothes, etc. Is to provide a composite processed yarn and a method for producing the same.

  The composite processed yarn of the present invention has the following configuration.

That is, a polyester composite long fiber having one component as a main component of polyethylene terephthalate and the other component as a main component of polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type, and another polyester long fiber The composite processed yarn is characterized in that the following (1) to (4) are satisfied.
(1) The weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester composite long fiber is 30/70 to 70/30.
(2) The single fiber fineness of the polyester long fiber is 0.3 decitex or more and 1.2 decitex or less (3) The torque twist number is less than 40 T / m (4) The entanglement number is 30 / m or more and 200 / m or less The manufacturing method of the composite processed yarn of the invention has the following configuration.

  That is, a polyester composite long fiber having one component as a main component of polyethylene terephthalate and the other component as a main component of polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type, and another polyester long fiber Is a method for producing a composite processed yarn, which comprises subjecting to a temporary heat treatment, followed by a relaxation heat treatment.

  By using the composite processed yarn of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a fabric having a flat surface feeling, a firm feeling and a soft texture, and further having excellent stretch properties.

  FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of the composite processed yarn of the present invention. The composite processed yarn (c) of the present invention comprises a polyester composite long fiber (I) and a polyester long fiber (B), each having a temporary twisted crimp, and an entangled part (d) and a spread part (e) Is an example in which are alternately present.

  FIG. 2 shows a schematic side view of the composite processed yarn (H) of the present invention that has been subjected to boiling water treatment at 98 ° C. for 30 minutes under no load. By the boiling water treatment, the polyester composite long fiber (f) develops crimp. On the other hand, since the polyester long fiber (g) has undergone a relaxation heat treatment, crimping has occurred before the boiling water treatment, so the polyester composite long fiber (f) surface hardly shrinks after the boiling water treatment. It becomes the form which floated from. For this reason, after forming a fabric using the composite processed yarn of the present invention, crimps appear in a process in which heat is applied to the yarn, such as dyeing, so that a fabric that is bulky and rich in stretch properties can be formed. it can.

  The composite processed yarn of the present invention has a polyester composite long fiber in which one constituent component is composed mainly of polyethylene terephthalate and the other constituent component is a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type composed mainly of polytrimethylene terephthalate. Used. Since two polymers having different intrinsic viscosities are bonded together in this way, stress is concentrated on the high viscosity side during spinning / drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side is greatly shrunk due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the heat shrinkage difference in the heat treatment process of the fabric, so that distortion occurs in the single fiber and takes the form of a three-dimensional coil crimp. It can be said that the diameter of this three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per single fiber length are determined by the shrinkage difference (including the elastic recovery rate difference) between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component. And the number of coils per unit fiber length increases. As a stretch material, coil crimp has a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (ie, excellent stretch characteristics and good appearance), and good coil sag resistance (stretching) It is preferable that the amount of coil sag according to the number of times is small and the stretch retention is excellent. Furthermore, since the expansion / contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion / contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as a fulcrum, the polymer used for the high contraction component preferably has high extensibility and recoverability.

  The polyethylene terephthalate used for the composite long fiber is composed of a polymer component having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit. That is, a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and ethylene glycol as the main glycol component is preferable. The copolymerization component which can form another ester bond may be contained in the ratio of 20 mol% or less, Preferably it is contained in the ratio of 10 mol% or less. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include sulfonic acid, sodium sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, sulfuric ester, diethyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, aliphatic sulfonic acid, ethane sulfonic acid, chlorobenzene sulfonic acid, alicyclic sulfonic acid, isophthalic acid, sebacic acid , Dicarboxylic acids such as azelaic acid, dimer acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, decanedicarboxylic acid, hydroxycarboxylic acids such as p-hydroxybenzoic acid and ε-caprolactone, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propanediol Diols such as butanediol, pentanediol, hydroquinone and bisphenol A can be used. If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments as an antioxidant may be added.

  The polytrimethylene terephthalate used for the composite long fiber is composed of a polymer component having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit. That is, a polyester obtained using terephthalic acid as the main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as the main glycol component is preferable. The copolymerization component which can form another ester bond may be contained in the ratio of 20 mol% or less, Preferably it is contained in the ratio of 10 mol% or less. As copolymerizable compounds, dicarboxylic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexane Diols such as dimethanol, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol can be used.

  Polytrimethylene terephthalate has the same mechanical and chemical properties as polyethylene terephthalate and polybutylene terephthalate, which are typical polyester filaments, and is extremely excellent in stretch recovery. This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the polytrimethylene terephthalate crystal structure has a Gauche-Gauche structure (the molecular chain bends at 90 degrees), and is further constrained by the interaction between benzene rings (stacking, parallel). It is thought that the molecular chain is easily stretched and recovered by the rotation of the methylene group because the point density is low and the flexibility is high.

  If necessary, the polyester composite long fiber may be added with titanium dioxide as a matting agent, silica or alumina fine particles as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments as an antioxidant, and the like. In the present invention, the intrinsic viscosity of polytrimethylene terephthalate is preferably 1.0 or more from the viewpoint of obtaining coil-shaped crimps and obtaining desired stretchability when a knitted fabric is formed. It is more preferable that The single yarn cross-sectional shape of the polyester composite long fiber used in the present invention is a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type. If the cross-sectional shape is not the side-by-side type or the eccentric core-sheath type, when heat is applied to the yarn, there is a problem that the coiled crimp does not appear and the yarn cannot be provided with elasticity.

  The weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester composite long fiber is in the range of 30/70 or more and 70/30 or less from the viewpoints of yarn production and dimensional uniformity of the coil in the fiber length direction. Preferably it is 35/65 or more and 65/35 or less, More preferably, it is the range of 40/60 or more and 60/40 or less.

  The total fineness of the polyester composite continuous fiber may be determined according to the purpose of use, and is preferably in the range of 30 dtex to 170 dtex. The single fiber fineness is preferably in the range of 2.0 dtex to 8.0 dtex.

  Since the composite processed yarn of the present invention is mixed with the above-mentioned polyester composite long fiber, other polyester long fiber is used. As the polyester long fiber, a filament fiber whose main component is made of polyethylene terephthalate, polymethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyhexamethylene terephthalate, or the like is preferable. From the viewpoint of iron resistance, those made of polyethylene terephthalate are preferred. The form of the polyester long fiber may be a drawn yarn or a highly oriented undrawn yarn. The single yarn cross-sectional shape of the polyester continuous fiber may be any of circular, triangular, flat, hexagonal and the like.

  The single fiber fineness of the polyester long fiber is not less than 0.3 dtex and not more than 1.2 dtex. If the single fiber fineness is less than 0.3 dtex, there is a concern about fluff and yarn breakage during temporary twisting. On the other hand, if it is larger than 1.2 decitex, it becomes difficult to interlace with the polyester composite long fiber, and it becomes difficult to obtain a desired number of entanglements. Also, a soft texture cannot be obtained. The total fineness of the polyester long fibers is preferably in the range of 30 dtex or more and 1000 dtex or less depending on the purpose of use.

  The number of torque twists of the composite processed yarn of the present invention is less than 40 T / m. When the number of torque twists is more than 40 T / m, lowering of high-order machining passability such as defective yarn release, winding around a guide, fluctuation in process tension, etc. is likely to occur. Furthermore, when a fabric is formed, it is not preferable because it leads to a slanting direction and a reduction in surface quality. Preferably it is less than 35 T / m, more preferably less than 30 T / m.

  Further, the number of entanglements of the composite processed yarn of the present invention is 30 / m or more and 200 / m or less. When the number of entanglement is less than 30 / m, the binding force due to the entanglement between the polyester composite long fiber and the polyester long fiber is insufficient, and the unwinding property from the processed yarn is poor due to the generation of yarn cracks, coarse loops, tarmi, etc. And thread breakage, and adversely affects the appearance quality of the product. On the other hand, when the number of entanglements is greater than 200 / m, the constraining force due to entanglement is too strong, and moderate bulkiness and stretchability are reduced. The lower limit of the number of entanglements is preferably 40 pieces / m or more, more preferably 50 pieces / m or more. Moreover, the upper limit of the preferable number of entanglement is 190 pieces / m or less, More preferably, it is 180 pieces / m or less.

  The composite processed yarn of the present invention preferably has an expansion / contraction elongation rate of 25% or more and 45% or less from the viewpoint of maintaining an appropriate stretch.

  Next, the manufacturing method of the composite processed yarn of this invention is demonstrated using drawing.

  FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a method for producing a composite processed yarn of the present invention. In the method for producing a composite processed yarn according to the present invention, the polyester composite long fiber and the polyester long fiber are mixed, temporarily twisted, and then subjected to relaxation heat treatment. In FIG. 3, the polyester composite long fiber 1 and the polyester long fiber 2 are aligned on the feed roller 3, and are mixed with the entanglement nozzle 4 while overfeeding between the feed roller 3 and the feed roller 5. Applied. As the entanglement nozzle 4 used for the fiber mixing process in the present invention, an interlace nozzle is preferable. The overfeed provided is preferably 0.5% or more and 5.0% or less. Moreover, it is preferable that the pressure of the entanglement nozzle 4 shall be 0.1 MPa or more and 0.5 MPa or less in the case of a fiber mixing process. The mixed yarn is temporarily twisted while being thermally set on the heater 6 between the feed roller 5 and the delivery roller 8. As the twisted body 7 used for false twisting, any of a pin, a friction disk, and a belt may be used. The false twisting temperature is preferably 160 ° C. or higher and 230 ° C. or lower from the viewpoint of sufficiently imparting crimps and suppressing the occurrence of single yarn breakage, yarn breakage, and fluff due to thermal degradation of the fiber. The draw ratio in the temporary twist is preferably 1.0 or more and 1.3 or less.

  Further, the yarn subjected to the temporary twist is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment by the heater 9 while applying overfeed between the delivery roller 8 and the feed roller 10 in order to suppress the torque generated by the false twist. The heater used for the relaxation heat treatment is preferably a non-contact type tube heater. The heat treatment temperature is preferably 160 ° C. or higher and 230 ° C. or lower. The yarn subjected to the relaxation heat treatment is wound around the package 12 by the take-up roller 11.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples.

In addition, the intrinsic viscosity (η), the torque twist number (T / m), the entanglement number (pieces / m), and the expansion / contraction elongation rate (%) in the examples were determined by the following methods.
[Intrinsic viscosity (η)]
A sample of 0.10 g was dissolved in 10 ml of orthochlorophenol and measured using an Ostwald viscometer at a temperature of 25 ° C.
[Torque twist (T / m)]
After fixing both ends of the working thread sampled to a length of 1 m in the lateral direction and suspending a load 14 of 0.44 cN / dtex at the center of the composite working thread 13, both ends of the working thread are gradually brought closer to each other. As shown in Fig. 2, both ends are completely matched. When matched, the number of twisted processed yarns is measured as the number of torque twists per 50 cm, converted to the number of torque twists per meter, and the number of torque twists (T / m).
[Number of entanglements (pieces / m)]
Using an entanglement tester (type ET-500) manufactured by Toray Industries, Inc., the spread length (mm) was measured and calculated from the spread length by the following formula.

Number of entanglements (pieces / m) = 1000 / opening length (mm)
[Extension / stretch rate (%)]
Measure according to JIS L 1013 (1999) “Testing method for chemical fiber filament yarn” “8.11 Stretchability a) Method A (when measuring one by one)”. As a sample pretreatment method, hot water treatment is performed at 90 ° C. for 20 minutes under a load of 2 mg / d. Next, the load is removed and air-dried for one day and night. Next, the length of the sample under a load of 2 mg / d is measured (L0). Thereafter, the length of the sample under a load with a load of 0.1 g / d is measured (L1). And the expansion / contraction elongation rate is calculated by the following formula.
Expansion / contraction elongation (%) = [(L1-L0) / L0] × 100
[Example 1]
Polytrimethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.52 were melted separately, and the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate from a composite spinneret with 24 holes at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C. Was discharged at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn of 135 dtex24 filaments. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate drawing machine, drawing is performed at a hot roll temperature of 70 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 145 ° C., and a draw ratio of 3.0 to obtain a side-by-side type polyester composite long fiber (drawn yarn) of 44 dtex 24 filaments. It was.

Using this obtained polyester composite long fiber and 66 dtex 144 filament polyethylene terephthalate long fiber (drawn yarn), using MACH-33H (Murata Kikai) as in the process shown in FIG. A mixed fiber, temporary twisting and relaxation heat treatment were applied to obtain a composite yarn.
<Mixed fiber treatment>
Entanglement pressure: 0.25 MPa
Confounding feed rate: + 1.0%
Nozzle: Interlace nozzle <provisional twist processing conditions>
Processing speed: 300 m / min (yarn speed on the delivery roller 8)
Stretch ratio: 1.05
Twisted body: Belt V / R ratio: 1.38
Belt crossing angle: 110 °
False twisting direction: S
Temporary twisting temperature: 180 ° C
<Relaxation heat treatment conditions>
Relaxation heat treatment temperature: 160 ° C
Relaxation condition: + 30%
Table 1 shows the number of torque twists, the number of entanglements, and the expansion and contraction rate of the obtained composite processed yarn.

Using this composite processed yarn, it was knitted with a 28 gauge, one-neck knitting machine, dyed with a disperse dye for polyester by a conventional method, and finished. The resulting knitted fabric had a flat appearance, had a soft bulky property, a firm feeling and a soft texture, and was excellent in stretchability.
[Example 2]
The same 44 dtex 24 filament side-by-side polyester composite long fiber (drawn yarn) and 84 dtex 72 filament polyethylene terephthalate long fiber (drawn yarn) as in Example 1 were used, and the entanglement feed rate in the mixed fiber treatment was + 1.5%. Were subjected to blending treatment, temporary twist processing and relaxation heat treatment in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a composite processed yarn.

  Table 1 shows the number of torque twists, the number of entanglements, and the expansion and contraction rate of the obtained composite processed yarn.

A woven fabric was formed by using the obtained composite processed yarn as a weft, followed by relaxing scouring with hot water at 97 ° C. and finishing heat setting at 160 ° C. to obtain a 1/3 twill fabric. The obtained woven fabric had a flat appearance, had a soft and dry feeling, had good stretchability, and was suitable for a jacket.
[Comparative Example 1]
Using a 33 dtex polyurethane elastic fiber and a 84 dtex 72 filament polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn, the fiber mixing treatment was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that the temporary twisting speed was 200 m / min (the yarn speed on the delivery roller 8). As a result, a composite processed yarn was obtained. In addition, a rolling roller was used for supplying the polyurethane fiber, and a pre-draft (3.0) was applied before aligning with the polyethylene terephthalate false twisted yarn.

  Table 1 shows the number of torque twists, the number of entanglements, and the expansion and contraction rate of the obtained composite processed yarn.

Using this composite processed yarn, it was knitted with a 28 gauge, one-neck knitting machine, dyed with a disperse dye for polyester by a conventional method, and finished. The obtained knitted fabric was a knitted fabric having a rough texture and a firm texture.
[Comparative Example 2]
The same 44 dtex 24 filament side-by-side polyester composite long fiber (drawn yarn) and 66 dtex 144 filament polyethylene terephthalate long fiber (drawn yarn) as in Example 1 were used, and the entanglement feed rate in the mixed fiber treatment was set to + 1.5%. In the same manner as in Example 1 except that the relaxation heat treatment was not performed later, a mixed fiber treatment and a temporary twisting process were performed to obtain a composite processed yarn.
Table 1 shows the number of torque twists, the number of entanglements, and the expansion and contraction rate of the obtained composite processed yarn.

  Using this composite processed yarn, it was knitted with a 28 gauge, one-neck knitting machine, dyed with a disperse dye for polyester by a conventional method, and finished. The obtained knitted fabric was wrinkled on the surface of the knitted fabric, and a flat surface feeling could not be obtained.

  The composite processed yarn of the present invention has a soft bulky property, a firm feeling, and a soft texture, and further has excellent stretchability, especially for clothing, such as outerwear such as jackets and bottoms, dresses, skirts, arm warmers, etc. Stretch materials such as women's clothing, jerseys, athletic wear, and sports clothing such as ski wear can be provided.

It is a schematic side view showing an example of the composite processed yarn of the present invention. It is a schematic side view which shows an example of the composite processing thread | yarn of this invention processed by the boiling water in the no-load state. It is a schematic diagram which shows an example of the manufacturing method of the composite process yarn of this invention. Explanatory drawing for measuring the number of torque twists

Explanation of symbols

(B): Polyester composite long fiber (b): Other polyester long fiber (c): Composite processed yarn (d): Entangled part (e): Opening part (f): Polyester compound long fiber (g): Other Polyester long fiber (C): Composite processed yarn 1: Polyester composite long fiber 2: Polyester long fiber 3: Feed roller 4: Entangling nozzle 5: Feed roller 6: Heater 7: Twisted body 8: Delivery roller 9: Heater 10: Feed roller 11: Take-up roller 12: Package 13: Composite thread 14: Load

Claims (4)

A composite of polyester composite long fiber, one of which is composed mainly of polyethylene terephthalate and the other component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is a side-by-side type or eccentric core-sheath type, and another polyester long fiber A composite processed yarn characterized by satisfying the following (1) to (4):
(1) The weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester composite long fiber is 30/70 to 70/30.
(2) The single fiber fineness of the polyester long fiber is 0.3 decitex or more and 1.2 decitex or less (3) The number of torque twists is less than 40 T / m (4) The number of entanglements is 30 / m or more and 200 / m or less The composite processed yarn according to claim 1, wherein the stretch elongation rate is 25% or more and 45% or less. A polyester composite long fiber, one of which is composed mainly of polyethylene terephthalate and the other component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is a side-by-side type or an eccentric core-sheath type, is mixed with another polyester long fiber. A method for producing a composite processed yarn, which comprises subjecting to a relaxation heat treatment after fiberizing and temporary twisting. The method for producing a composite processed yarn according to claim 3, wherein the mixed fiber is entangled.

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