JP2003073951A - Covered yarn and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a stretchable fabric which is thin, has a flat touch, and has elegant gloss, drape, dry touch and scroop characteristic to silk. SOLUTION: The covered yarn comprising a core yarn and a sheath yarn is characterized by using a side-by-side type or eccentric sheath-core type polyester-based conjugate fiber yarn comprising polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and polytrimethylene terephthalate as another component as the core yarn and further using a silk yarn as the sheath yarn.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a coated yarn and a method for producing the same.

More specifically, using the coated yarn of the present invention,
By applying a high-order process and using it for clothes, etc., a covered yarn, which has a thin and flat feeling, and can obtain a stretched cloth having an elegant luster unique to silk, a soft feeling, and a silky tactile feeling, and The manufacturing method is related.

[0003]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a stretch material, an elastic coated yarn obtained by coating a polyurethane elastic fiber as a core yarn with a polyamide fiber or a polyester fiber in a single layer or a double layer has been used for general clothing such as stockings, innerwear and outerwear. Has been used. Furthermore, in order to impart gloss, softness, and silkiness, a polyurethane elastic fiber and silk fiber have been knitted and woven together. However, the knitted fabric obtained by such a method can be obtained with excellent fit and stretchability, but the texture becomes hard and the drape property deteriorates, and it is possible to sufficiently meet the demand of consumers. could not. In general, polyurethane-based elastic fibers have the drawbacks of being easily embrittled by chlorine due to their chemical structure and being easily yellowed by light or gas.Therefore, there has been a technology to improve durability against chlorine, light and gas, and yellowing resistance as compared with conventional techniques. Although it has been disclosed, it is insufficient and development of a textured yarn capable of improving these defects is urgently needed.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is, when subjected to high-order processing, to be used for clothes or the like, excellent in durability, chlorine resistance, and light resistance which cannot be obtained by the conventional techniques, and It is an object of the present invention to provide a coated yarn which is thin and has an elegant luster, an excellent drape property, a firmness and elasticity, and a stretch fabric having a soft feeling and a silk squeal, and a method for producing the same.

[0005]

The coated yarn of the present invention adopts the following means in order to solve the above problems.

That is, a covering yarn consisting of a core yarn and a sheath yarn, wherein one of the constituent components of the core yarn is mainly composed of polyethylene terephthalate and the other constituent component is mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate. An eccentric sheath / core type polyester-based composite fiber is used, and a silk fiber is used as a sheath yarn, which is a covering yarn.

Further, the method for producing a coated yarn of the present invention adopts the following means in order to solve the above problems.

That is, as a core yarn, side-by-side type or eccentric sheath / core type polyester-based composite fibers in which one of the constituents contains polyethylene terephthalate as the main component and the other constituent contains polytrimethylene terephthalate as the main constituent. A method for producing a coated yarn, which comprises using the fiber and covering the silk fiber as a sheath yarn.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The coated yarn of the present invention will be described below. FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of the coated yarn of the present invention. The covering yarn (C) is a silk fiber (B) in which a polyester-based composite fiber (A) which is a core yarn is a sheath yarn around the core.
It is coated with a single layer or a double layer. FIG. 2 is a schematic side view of the coated yarn (f) of the present invention which has been treated with boiling water at 98 ° C. for 30 minutes under no load. When the polyester-based composite fiber (d) as the core yarn is treated with boiling water, latent crimps are developed, and the coated yarn of the present invention becomes bulky and rich in stretchability.

The core yarn in the coated yarn of the present invention is a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type in which one of the constituent components contains polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and the other constituent component contains polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component. It is a polyester-based composite fiber.

By bonding polymers having different intrinsic viscosities to each other in the polyester-based conjugate fiber, stress concentrates on the high viscosity side during spinning and drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side is largely shrunk due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the difference in heat shrinkage in the heat treatment step of the cloth, and distortion occurs in the single fiber to take a three-dimensional coil crimp form. It can be said that the diameter of the three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per single fiber length are determined by the shrinkage difference (including the elastic recovery rate difference) between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component. Is small, and the number of coils per unit fiber length is large.

Coil crimps required as a stretch material have a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent elongation characteristics and good appearance), and good coil sag resistance (expansion and contraction). The amount of coil fatigue depending on the number of times is small and the stretch retention property is excellent. Furthermore, the expansion and contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion and contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as the fulcrum. The polymer used for is required to have high extensibility and recoverability. Therefore, the inventors of the present invention have conducted extensive studies in order to satisfy the above properties without impairing the properties of polyester. As a result, the low shrinkage component contains polyethylene terephthalate as a main component, and the high shrinkage component contains polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component. It was found to use the polyester composite fiber. The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber has mechanical properties and chemical properties equivalent to those of polyethylene terephthalate fiber and polybutylene terephthalate fiber, which are typical polyester fibers, and is extremely excellent in elongation recovery. This is because the methylene chain of the alkylene glycol part in the crystal structure of polytrimethylene terephthalate is gauche-
The gauche structure (the molecular chain bends at 90 degrees), the density of constraint points due to the interaction between the benzene rings (stacking, parallel) is low, and the flexibility is high. We believe that it will easily grow and recover.

The polyethylene terephthalate, which is a constituent component of the core yarn in the coated yarn of the present invention, is preferably a polymer component having an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit. That is, as the polyethylene terephthalate in the present invention, terephthalic acid is the main acid component, and ethylene glycol is the main glycol component.
The polyester obtained as a component is preferred. However, it is also preferable that the content of other copolymerizable component capable of forming an ester bond is 20 mol% or less.
Those contained in the following ratios are more preferable. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include sulfonic acid, sodium sulfonic acid, sulfuric acid, sulfuric acid ester, diethyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, aliphatic sulfonic acid, ethanesulfonic acid, chlorobenzenesulfonic acid, alicyclic sulfonic acid, isophthalic acid, sebacic acid. , Dicarboxylic acids such as azelaic acid, dimer acid, adipic acid, oxalic acid, and decanedicarboxylic acid; dicarboxylic acids such as p-hydroxybenzoic acid and hydroxycarboxylic acids such as ε-caprolactone;
Triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol,
Diols such as hydroquinone and bisphenol A are preferably used.

If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, a hindered phenol derivative as an antioxidant, and a coloring pigment may be added.

The polytrimethylene terephthalate, which is another component of the core yarn of the coated yarn of the present invention, is preferably a polymer component having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit.

That is, as the polytrimethylene terephthalate in the present invention, a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3 propanediol as a main glycol component is preferable. However, it is also preferable that the content of the other copolymerizable component capable of forming an ester bond is 20 mol% or less, and that of 10 mol% or less is more preferable. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include diphthalic acids such as isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimer acid, sebacic acid and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,
Diols such as butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexanedimethanol, polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol are preferably used.

If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, a hindered phenol derivative as an antioxidant, a color pigment, etc. may be added.

In the present invention, the intrinsic viscosity of polytrimethylene terephthalate is 1. From the viewpoint of expressing a coiled crimp and obtaining desired stretchability when forming a knitted fabric.
It is preferably 0 or more, more preferably 1.2 or more.

The cross-sectional shape of the single fiber of the polyester composite fiber used in the present invention is a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type.

Unless the cross-sectional shape is a side-by-side type or an eccentric sheath / core type, when heat is applied to the yarn,
There is a problem that the coiled crimp does not appear and the yarn cannot be stretched.

The weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate in the polyester composite fiber is in the range of 30/70 or more and 70/30 or less from the viewpoint of spinnability and dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction. It is preferable.

The fineness of the polyester composite fiber is preferably in the range of 20 decitex or more and 1000 decitex or less depending on the purpose of use.

Further, the single yarn fineness of the polyester composite fiber is preferably in the range of 0.4 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less depending on the use.

Silk fiber is used for the sheath yarn in the coated yarn of the present invention. If silk fiber is not used for the sheath yarn, there is a problem in that when it is made into a knitted fabric, it is impossible to achieve an elegant luster, a silky feel, a soft touch, a drape property, and a refreshing feeling. The silk fiber used as the sheath yarn in the coated yarn of the present invention is a raw yarn, a filament yarn such as a ball yarn or a silk spun yarn,
Any of spun yarn such as silk spun pongee yarn and pongee yarn,
When used for high-gloss high-quality clothing, it is preferable to use raw silk. The type, fineness, mode, etc. of the silk fiber used for the sheath yarn include the gloss, form, stretchability, and
It may be appropriately selected in consideration of the texture.

The fineness of the sheath yarn is preferably in the range of 20 decitex or more and 1000 decitex or less depending on the purpose of use.

Furthermore, the single yarn fineness of the sheath yarn is 0.
The range of 4 decitex or more and 25 decitex or less is preferable.

In the coated yarn of the present invention, the sheath yarn may be a single coating around the core yarn from the viewpoint of obtaining excellent elasticity, and the sheath yarn may be the core from the viewpoint of obtaining excellent covering properties. The yarn may be double-coated.

Next, the method for producing the coated yarn of the present invention will be described. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the method for producing a coated yarn of the present invention.

In the present invention, the polyester-based composite fiber is used as a core yarn, and silk fiber is coated thereon as a sheath yarn.

A commercially available covering machine or the like is preferably used for coating.

FIG. 3 shows an example of double coating. In FIG. 3, the polyester-based conjugate fiber used as the core yarn 1 is
From the viewpoint of obtaining a stable draft and preventing the occurrence of yarn breakage because it has a coil-shaped actual crimp, stabilizes the balloon of the sheath yarn 2, suppresses Yorimura in the yarn length direction, and slab-like processing. From the viewpoint of preventing the yarn from being formed, between the washer tenser 3 and the feed roller 4 immediately before being inserted into the draft zone between the feed roller 4 and the delivery roller 11 of the covering machine, 0.01 cN / dtex is applied.
It is preferable to apply the above pretension. As a method of pretensioning the core yarn, see FIG.
In the above, the washer tensor 3 is used, but a magnet tensor or the like is also preferably used.

While the core yarn is pretensioned with 0.01 cN / dtex or more, the running of the core yarn is stabilized,
From the viewpoint of preventing yarn breakage, damage to the rubber roller in drafts, uneven drawing due to slipping of yarn between drafts, and yarn breakage, the draft is preferably in the range of 0.95 or more and 1.6 or less, It is more preferable that the range is 1.03 or more and 1.2 or less.

The sheath yarn is made of H by a commercially available high-speed winder.
After being wound on the bobbin 2, it is installed on the lower spindle 5 and the upper spindle 7 as shown in FIG. 3, and is wound on the core yarn by rotating the spindle to form a coated yarn.

The obtained coated yarn is taken up by the take-up roller 1.
It is wound on cheese 14 by 3.

When producing the single-coated yarn, one H bobbin is installed on either the upper spindle or the lower spindle, and the spindle yarn is wound around the core yarn by rotating the spindle.

When the sheath yarn is coated on the core yarn, the twist number of the sheath yarn may be appropriately selected depending on the denier of the sheath yarn and the number of filaments, but it is preferably in the range of 100 to 2000 T / m.

In the case of double coating, it is preferable that the number of upper twists is 0.7 to 0.9 times the number of lower twists. It is preferable to apply in the opposite direction.

The knitted fabric using the coated yarn of the present invention has a beautiful luster and appearance, has a drape property, a soft texture, is silky, and has excellent stretchability and morphological stability. For clothing, it is not limited to kimono and obi, but it can be used as stretch materials such as high-class blouses, dresses, casual blouson, high-class innerwear, and nightwear.

[0039]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples.

The intrinsic viscosity (η) in the examples was determined by the following method. However, the present invention is not limited to these examples. [Intrinsic Viscosity (η)] 0.10 g of a sample was dissolved in 10 ml of orthochlorophenol and measured at a temperature of 25 ° C using an Ostwald viscometer.

[Example 1] Polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.31 and polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.52 were separately melted and spun at a spinning temperature of 260 ° C from a 24-hole composite spinneret. / Polytrimethylene terephthalate is discharged at a weight ratio of 50/50, and the spinning speed is 14
It was taken up at 00 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn of 165 dtex24 filament. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate stretching machine, hot roll temperature 70 ° C., hot plate temperature 145
The film was drawn at a draw ratio of 3.0 ° C. of 3.0 to obtain a side-by-side type polyester-based composite fiber (drawn yarn) of 56 dtex24 filament. The obtained polyester-based composite fiber was used as a core yarn, the raw yarn in 31 of silk was used as a sheath yarn, and a covering process was performed under the following conditions using the covering process shown in FIG. The core yarn is subjected to a pre-tension of 0.01 cN / dtex or more between the washer tenser 3 and the feed roller 4 immediately before being inserted into the draft zone between the feed roller 4 and the delivery roller 11 of the covering machine. Then, the yarn was fed through the washer tensor.

Pre-tension: 4 g Draft: 1.1 times Twist number: Z1400 T / m Spindle speed: 6000 rpm Winding ratio: 95.0% Using the obtained single coated yarn, 28 gauge, 1-knitting machine After knitting, scouring, dyeing with disperse dye and acid dye for one bath, and finishing, beautiful gloss, drape, elegant appearance, thin and flat texture, soft and silky A knitted fabric having a good touch and good stretchability and suitable for a high-class blouse was obtained.

Further, a woven fabric was formed by using the obtained single-coated yarn as a weft yarn, followed by relaxing scouring with hot water at 97 ° C. to obtain a taffeta woven fabric. The woven fabric using the coated yarn of the present invention was rich in drape, had beautiful luster and appearance, had a soft feeling, and had good stretchability, and was suitable for Japanese clothing.

Example 2 The same 56 dtex24 filament side-by-side type polyester composite fiber as that used in Example 1 was used as the core yarn, and the raw yarn in the silk 31 was used as the sheath yarn. A covering process was performed under the conditions described above to obtain a double-coated yarn.

Pretension: 4 g Draft: 1.1 times Lower twist: S800 T / m Top twist: Z680 T / m Spindle speed: 6000 rpm Winding ratio: 96.0% Using the obtained double coated yarn , As in Example 1, 28
After knitting with a gauge, a single knitting machine, refining, dyeing with a disperse dye and acid dye in a single bath, and finishing, the fabric has a thin and flat feel, and a soft and silky tactile sensation that is rich in stretchability. A knitted fabric suitable for high-quality shirts, nightwear, and innerwear was obtained. Although the stretchability was reduced as compared with Example 1, the knitted fabric had a better dry feeling and a refreshing feeling because the coverage was good.

Further, the obtained double-coated yarn was used as a weft to form a woven fabric, which was subsequently subjected to relax scouring with hot water at 97 ° C. to obtain a taffeta woven fabric. The woven fabric using the yarn of the present invention is rich in resilience, has a sharp feeling, has good stretchability, and is suitable for Japanese clothing.

[Comparative Example 1] A single-coated yarn was prepared by using 20 dtex of polyurethane-based elastic fiber as a core yarn and using a raw yarn in silk 31 as a sheath yarn under the following conditions in the same manner as in Example 1. Got However, the polyurethane-based elastic fiber was fed by rolling (feeding positively).

Draft: 3.0 times Twist number: Z1000T / m Spindle speed: 6000 rpm Winding ratio: 93.0% Using the obtained single coated yarn, as in Example 1, 28
As a result of knitting with a gauge, a single-knitting machine, dyeing with an acid dye, and finishing, it has a high level of elasticity, but is inferior in durability when worn, chlorine resistance, light resistance, thick fabric, and texture. A hard knitted fabric was obtained.

Further, a woven fabric was formed by using the obtained single-coated yarn as a weft yarn, followed by relaxing scouring with hot water at 97 ° C. to obtain a taffeta woven fabric. The obtained woven fabric was highly stretchable, but the woven fabric was thick and had a hard texture.

[Comparative Example 2] A double-coated yarn was prepared in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1 except that 20 dtex of polyurethane elastic fiber was used as the core yarn and the raw yarn in the silk 31 was used as the sheath yarn under the following conditions. Got

Draft: 3.0 times Lower twist number: S800 T / m Upper twist number: Z680 T / m Spindle speed: 6000 rpm Winding ratio: 95.0% Using the obtained double coated yarn, Example 1 28 as well as
As a result of knitting with a gauge, a single-knitting machine, dyeing with an acid dye, and finishing, it has a high level of elasticity, but is inferior in durability when worn, chlorine resistance, light resistance, thick fabric, and texture. A hard knitted fabric was obtained.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 The same 56dtex24 filament side-by-side type polyester conjugate fiber used in Example 1 was used as the core yarn and 56d as the sheath yarn.
A covering process was performed under the following conditions in the same manner as in Comparative Example 1 using polypropylene yarn of tex24 filament.

Pre-tension: 4 g Draft: 1.1 times Twist number: Z1400 T / m Spindle speed: 10000 rpm Winding ratio: 95.0% Using the obtained single coated yarn, a 28 gauge, single knitting machine As a result of knitting, scouring and finishing, the same stretchability as that of Example 1 was obtained, but a satisfactory knitted fabric was not obtained due to gloss, softness and drapeability.

[0054]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION By using the coated yarn of the present invention, the cloth has a thin and flat feeling, and the elegant luster peculiar to silk,
It is possible to obtain a stretch fabric having a drape property, a soft feeling, and a silky tactile sensation.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view showing an example of a coated yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic side view showing an example of the coated yarn of the present invention which has been subjected to boiling water treatment in a no-load state.

FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a method for producing a coated yarn of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

(B): Core thread (B): sheath thread (C): Coated yarn (D): Core thread (E): sheath thread (F): Coated yarn 1: Core thread 2: sheath yarn 3: Washer tensor 4: Feed roller 5: Lower spindle 6: Lower belt 7: Upper spindle 8: Upper belt 9: H bobbin 10: Snell guide 11: Delivery roller 12: Guide bar 13: Take-up roller 14: cheese

Continued front page    (72) Inventor Shana Masanori             1-2-2 Sonoyama, Otsu City, Shiga Prefecture             DuPont Co., Ltd. Shiga Plant F-term (reference) 4L036 MA05 MA08 MA15 MA17 MA39                       PA46 RA03 RA04 RA24 UA01                       UA08

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A covering yarn comprising a core yarn and a sheath yarn, wherein one of the constituent components of the core yarn is polyethylene terephthalate as a main component and the other constituent component is a polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component. An eccentric sheath-core type polyester composite fiber is used, and a sheath yarn is made of silk fiber, which is a covered yarn. 2. The coated yarn according to claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of polyethylene terephthalate / polytrimethylene terephthalate of the polyester-based conjugate fiber is 30/70 to 70/30. 3. A side-by-side type or eccentric sheath / core type polyester-based composite fiber, one of the constituents of which has polyethylene terephthalate as a main component, and the other constituent of which has polytrimethylene terephthalate as a main component, as a core yarn. A method for producing a coated yarn, which comprises using the silk fiber as a sheath yarn from the above. 4. The method for producing a coated yarn according to claim 3, wherein the sheath yarn is coated once. 5. The method for producing a coated yarn according to claim 3, wherein the sheath yarn is doubly coated.