JP2019085676A - False-twisted conjugated polyester yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

To provide a false-twisted conjugated yarn which can impart good feeling with body and stiffness and soft touch, appropriate stretchability, and excellent dyeability on making a woven or knitted fabric.SOLUTION: A false-twisted conjugated yarn has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 3.5 dtex and a total fineness of 120 to 170 dtex, and comprises: a polyester fiber A having a latent crimping property that elicits 55% or more of a crimp ratio after the boiling water treatment measured by the predetermined condition; and a polyester fiber B having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 5.0 dtex and a total fineness of 150 to 240 dtex, and has difference in the crimp ratio after the boiling water treatment measured by the predetermined condition between the polyester fiber A and the polyester fiber B of 30 to 90%. By forming the false-twisted conjugated yarns into a woven or knitted fabric and crimping the polyester fiber A, good feeling with body and stiffness and soft touch, appropriate stretchability, and excellent dyeability are imparted to the woven or knitted fabric.SELECTED DRAWING: Figure 1

Description

  The present invention relates to a composite false-twisted yarn capable of imparting, when made into a woven or knitted fabric, a good texture having a feeling of stiffness and a feeling of softness, an appropriate stretchability, and an excellent dyeing performance. The present invention also relates to a method of producing the composite false twisted yarn.

  Conventionally, as a stretch material, a composite false twisting yarn obtained by compound false twisting processing of a polyester yarn having latent crimpability and another polyester yarn is known.

  For example, in Patent Document 1, as a method of producing a composite false twisted yarn capable of giving high stretchability and a feeling of swelling to a fabric, a side by side type polyester conjugate undrawn yarn and a polyester undrawn yarn are aligned, A method of producing a polyester composite false twisted yarn is also disclosed in which both yarns are false-twisted at the same draw ratio of 1.2 or more. According to the manufacturing method, a difference in elongation between the drawn yarn and the conjugate yarn causes a yarn-to-foot difference (yarn length difference), and the composite false-twisted yarn to be obtained has the conjugate yarn as a core yarn. It has a core-sheath structure and gives the fabric a feeling of swelling. And, since the core yarn is a side-by-side type conjugate yarn excellent in crimp development property, a crimp heat that overcomes the restraint between the core yarn and the sheath yarn is developed by the stretching heat treatment in false twisting, which is excellent for the fabric It is said to give a stretch.

  Further, in Patent Document 2, polyester having a latent crimp performance as a method of producing a composite false-twisted yarn which has a firm, stiff, rebound feeling, a flat appearance, and a soft and dry touch fabric is obtained. A process is disclosed for producing a composite false-twisted yarn which is subjected to a composite false-twisting process after the yarn and another polyester yarn are aligned and intertwined. According to the manufacturing method, it is difficult to separate the polyester yarn having the latent crimp performance to be the core yarn and the other polyester yarn to be the sheath yarn, and the fluff and the sagging are reduced. It is believed that the yarn is squeezed by the traveler to reduce the occurrence of neps and the formation of white streaks when forming a woven or knitted fabric.

  Furthermore, in Patent Document 3, as a method for producing a composite false-twisted yarn having both stretchability, lightness and bulkiness, polyester yarn having low crimpability and other polyester yarn having high elongation are described. After conducting composite false twisting under the same draw ratio conditions of temperature 110 ° C. or less and draw ratio 1.2 times or less, heat treatment is further carried out at heater temperature 140 ° C. or more, and composites having substantially no yarn length difference A process is disclosed for making polyester composite false twist yarns which are false twist yarns. According to the manufacturing method, when composite false twisting is performed under conditions of a temperature of 110 ° C. or less and a draw ratio of 1.2 times or less, a yarn length between a polyester yarn having latent crimp performance and another polyester yarn Although a difference occurs, heat treatment with the secondary heater causes the other polyester yarns, which are sheath yarns, to shrink and substantially eliminate the yarn length difference. Then, the self-stretchability is imparted to the other polyester yarn, and a difference in yarn length is expressed again in the heat treatment in the dyeing step, and it is said that the stretchability is enhanced.

  However, the composite false-twisted yarn obtained by the method disclosed in Patent Documents 1 to 3 has a defect in terms of imparting stretchability. Therefore, in Patent Document 4, a polyester composite false twisting yarn comprising a polyester yarn having latent crimpability and another polyester yarn as a composite false twisting yarn capable of imparting excellent stretchability, the polyester having the above-mentioned latent crimpability The yarn length difference of the other polyester yarn to the yarn is 0 to 5%, and the crimp rate of the polyester yarn having the latent crimp performance is 40% or more, and the latent crimp performance to the other polyester yarn A composite false-twisted yarn is proposed in which the difference in crimp percentage of polyester yarns having 10% or more.

  The composite false twist yarn disclosed in Patent Document 4 is excellent in stretchability and can also impart soft bulkiness, and thus is a material particularly suitable for ladies' clothes and the like. However, when the composite false twist yarn disclosed in Patent Document 4 is used in uniform clothes for offices and factories, the stretchability is felt strongly, and further, it is not satisfactory in terms of a sense of stiffness and a sense of softness. Furthermore, the composite false twist yarn disclosed in Patent Document 4 may have glare after dyeing, and there is room for improvement in terms of dyeability.

JP-A-2-175935 Unexamined-Japanese-Patent No. 2003-268639 JP 2005-299000A JP, 2015-117448, A

  An object of the present invention is to provide a composite false-twisted yarn capable of imparting a good feeling with a feeling of hardness and a feeling of softness, appropriate stretchability, and excellent dyeability, when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric.

  The inventors of the present invention conducted intensive studies to solve the above problems and found that the single yarn fineness degree is 1.5 to 3.5 dtex and the total fineness degree is 120 to 170 dtex, and the haze after boiling water treatment measured under predetermined conditions. The polyester yarn A having a latent crimp performance with a shrinkage ratio of 55% or more, and a polyester yarn B having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 5.0 dtex and a total fineness of 150 to 240 dtex, A composite false twisted yarn having a difference in crimp percentage after boiling water treatment measured with the polyester yarn B under a predetermined condition is 30 to 90%, and when the polyester yarn A is crimped into a woven or knitted fabric, it feels brittle. It has been found that it can impart good texture with a soft feeling, moderate stretchability, and excellent dyeability, and is suitable as a material for uniform clothes for offices and factories. The present invention has been completed by repeating studies based on such findings.

That is, the present invention provides the invention of the aspects listed below.
Item 1. A composite false twisted yarn comprising polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B, wherein
The latent crimpability of the polyester yarn A having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 3.5 dtex and a total fineness of 120 to 170 dtex and a crimp percentage after boiling water treatment of 55% or more measured under the following conditions Have
The polyester yarn B has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 5.0 dtex and a total fineness of 150 to 240 dtex,
The composite false twisted yarn, wherein the difference in crimp rate after boiling water treatment measured under the following conditions between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is 30 to 90%.
<Crimp rate after boiling water treatment>
A thread to be measured is made into a cassette with 5 turns by using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, and left for a whole day and night while the cassette is suspended from the stand. Next, the cassette is placed in boiling water under a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex (load 1) and subjected to a wet heat treatment for 30 minutes, and then moisture is lightly taken up by filter paper and left for 30 minutes in air. Next, while a load 1 is applied, a light load (load 2) of 0.00177 cN / dtex is further applied, and the length a (cm) of the cassette is measured. Next, only load 2 is removed, a heavy load (load 3) of 0.044 cN / dtex is applied, and the length b (cm) of the case is measured. Then, the crimp rate (%) is calculated according to the following equation.
Crimp rate after boiling water treatment (%) = [(ba) / b] × 100
Item 2. The composite false twisted yarn according to Item 1, wherein the single fiber constituting the polyester yarn A is a composite fiber containing two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability as a constituent resin.
Item 3. The composite false twist yarn according to Item 2, wherein a difference in intrinsic viscosity of the two types of polyester resins is 0.3 to 0.8 dL / g.
Item 4. The composite false twisted yarn according to item 2 or 3, wherein the two types of polyester resins are homopolyethylene terephthalate in which the repeating units consist essentially of all ethylene terephthalate and homopolyethylene terephthalate in which the repeating units consist essentially of all butylene terephthalate. .
Item 5. The composite false twist yarn according to Item 1, wherein the crimp rate of the composite false twist yarn after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions is 35 to 50%.
Item 6. The composite false twisted yarn according to any one of Items 1 to 5, wherein the number of interlacing is 90 to 200 / m.
Item 7. A method of producing the composite false twisted yarn according to any one of items 1 to 6,
Polyester highly oriented yarn A having a total fineness of 150 to 260 dtex and an elongation of 130 to 160% and latent crimp performance, and a polyester highly oriented yarn having a total fineness of 200 to 370 dtex and an elongation of 130 to 160% A first step of aligning B simultaneously and performing simultaneous drawing and false twisting processing so as to satisfy the following conditions (i) and (ii):
(i) The polyester highly oriented yarn A (polyester yarn A) after simultaneous drawing and false twisting has a crimp rate of 55% or more after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions.
(ii) The crimped ratio after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions of polyester highly oriented yarn A (polyester yarn A) and polyester highly oriented yarn B (polyester yarn B) after drawing simultaneously and false-twisting is 30 to 90 %become.
And a second step of entanglement of the composite false twisted yarn obtained in the first step.
Item 8. In the first step, simultaneous drawing and false twisting are performed under the conditions of a false twist heater temperature of 180 to 300 ° C., a draw ratio of 1.3 to 1.6 times, and a heater number of 1.
Item 8. The production method according to Item 7.
Item 9. Item 7. A woven or knitted fabric, wherein the composite false twisted yarn according to any one of items 1 to 6 is woven and knitted, and the polyester yarn A contained in the composite false twisted yarn is crimped.

  According to the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention, when the polyester yarn A is crimped after being woven into a woven or knitted fabric, it is possible to impart a good texture with a sense of hardness and softness, appropriate stretchability, and excellent dyeability. It is suitable as a material for uniform clothing for offices and factories.

It is an example of the schematic process drawing of the manufacturing method of the composite false twisted yarn of this invention.

  The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is a composite false twisted yarn comprising polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B, wherein (i) the polyester yarn A has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 3.5 dtex and a total fineness of 120 to 170 dtex And has a latent crimpability such that the crimp rate after boiling water treatment measured under predetermined conditions is 55% or more, (ii) the polyester yarn B has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 5.0 dtex, And the total fineness is 150 to 240 dtex, and (iii) the difference in crimp rate after boiling water treatment measured under predetermined conditions between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is 30 to 90%. It is characterized by Hereinafter, the composite false twist yarn of the present invention will be described in detail.

[Polyester thread A]
The single yarn fineness of the polyester yarn A is 1.5 to 3.5 dtex. The single yarn fineness of the polyester yarn A is preferably 1.8 to 3.2 dtex, from the viewpoint of more suitably imparting a good texture having a sense of softness and a feeling of softness, a suitable stretchability, and an excellent dyeability. It can be mentioned.

  Moreover, the total fineness of the polyester yarn A is 120 to 170 dtex. The total fineness of the polyester yarn A is preferably 130 to 160 dtex from the viewpoint of suitably imparting a good texture having a feeling of softness and a feeling of softness, a suitable stretchability, and an excellent dyeability.

  The number of single yarns of the single fiber constituting the polyester yarn A may be appropriately set so as to satisfy the single yarn fineness and the total fineness, and for example, 30 to 80, preferably 40 to 70 may be mentioned. .

  The polyester yarn A constituting the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention has a predetermined latent crimpability. In the present invention, “latent crimpability” is the ability to express coil-like three-dimensional crimp by contraction by heating, swelling or the like.

The latent crimpability of the polyester yarn A is, specifically, the property that the crimp rate after boiling water treatment measured under the following conditions is 55% or more. By having such latent crimpability, it is possible to impart a good texture with a sense of hardness and a softness, an appropriate stretchability, and an excellent dyeability. As a crimp percentage after boiling water treatment measured under the following conditions of polyester yarn A, from the viewpoint of more suitably imparting a good texture having a sense of softness and a feeling of softness, an appropriate stretchability, and an excellent dyeability, Preferably 55 to 90%, more preferably 60 to 80%, particularly preferably 60 to 70% can be mentioned.
<Measurement conditions of crimp rate after boiling water treatment>
Remove polyester yarn A from the composite false-twisted yarn. The taken out polyester yarn A is made into a cassette of 5 turns by using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, and left for a whole day and night while the cassette is suspended on a stand. Next, the cassette is placed in boiling water under a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex (load 1) and subjected to a wet heat treatment for 30 minutes, and then moisture is lightly taken up by filter paper and left for 30 minutes in air. Next, while a load 1 is applied, a light load (load 2) of 0.00177 cN / dtex is further applied, and the length a (cm) of the cassette is measured. Next, only load 2 is removed, a heavy load (load 3) of 0.044 cN / dtex is applied, and the length b (cm) of the case is measured. And the crimp rate (%) after boiling water treatment is calculated according to the following formula. In addition, the measurement of the crimp rate after boiling water treatment is performed about three of polyester yarn A, and let each average be a crimp rate after boiling water treatment of polyester yarn A. Here, the boiling water is water which is in a boiling state and substantially at about 98.degree.
Crimp rate after boiling water treatment (%) = [(ba) / b] × 100

  In order to provide the above-mentioned latent crimpability in the polyester yarn A, a composite in which the single fiber constituting the polyester yarn A is an eccentric core-sheath type or a side-by-side type using two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkage properties as constituent resins It is good if it is fiber.

  The combination of two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability is not particularly limited. For example, polyethylene terephthalate having different intrinsic viscosities (homopolyethylene terephthalate in which all repeating units consist essentially of ethylene terephthalate (hereinafter referred to as homoPET) )), Combinations of isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, bisphenol A or polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxy) phenyl} propane and homoPET And a combination of homoPET and polybutylene terephthalate (homopolyethylene terephthalate of which all repeating units are substantially all butylene terephthalate (hereinafter sometimes referred to as homo PBT)). Among them, a combination of homoPET and homoPBT is suitable for imparting a good feeling with a feeling of hardness and a feeling of softness, an appropriate stretchability, and an excellent dyeability.

  The difference in the limiting viscosity of the two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkage properties to be the constituent resin of the polyester yarn A is, for example, 0.3 to 0.8 dL / g, from the viewpoint of providing the latent crimpability. Preferably, 0.4 to 0.7 dL / g can be mentioned.

  In addition, as the two types of polyester resins having different heat-shrinkability to be a constituent resin of polyester yarn A, specifically, the intrinsic viscosity of one polyester resin is 0.7 to 1.3 dL / g, preferably 0.8. And the intrinsic viscosity of the other polyester resin is 0.2 to 0.7 dL / g, preferably 0.3 to 0.6 dL / g.

  In the present invention, the intrinsic viscosity is a value determined by measuring at a temperature of 20 ° C., using a capillary viscometer, using an equal mixture of phenol and ethane tetrachloride as a solvent.

  The ratio of the two types of polyester resins having different heat-shrinkability to be the constituent resin of polyester yarn A may be appropriately set according to the degree of latent crimpability to be applied, etc. For example, polyester having high intrinsic viscosity The weight ratio of resin / polyester resin with low intrinsic viscosity is 30/70 to 70/30, preferably 35/65 to 65/35.

[Polyester yarn B]
As polyester yarn B, polyester yarn which does not have latent crimpability or has a significantly lower crimpability than polyester yarn A is used.

  The type of polyester resin constituting the polyester yarn B is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include aromatic polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate; cationic dyeable polyester, polylactic acid, etc. .

  The single yarn fineness of the polyester yarn B is 1.5 to 5.0 dtex. The polyester yarn B preferably has a single yarn fineness of 2.0 to 3.5 dtex from the viewpoint of more suitably imparting a good texture having a sense of softness and a feeling of softness, a suitable stretchability, and an excellent dyeability. It can be mentioned.

  Moreover, the total fineness of the polyester yarn B is 150 to 240 dtex. The total fineness of the polyester yarn B is preferably 160 to 210 dtex from the viewpoint of more suitably imparting a good feeling with a sense of softness and a feeling of softness, a suitable stretchability, and an excellent dyeability.

  The number of single yarns of the single fiber constituting the polyester yarn B may be appropriately set so as to satisfy the single yarn fineness and the total fineness, but for example, 30 to 120, preferably 40 to 100 can be mentioned. .

  The crimp rate of the polyester yarn B after the boiling water treatment is not particularly limited as long as it satisfies the difference in the crimp rate of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B after the boiling water treatment described below, for example, 0 to 25 %, Preferably 5 to 20%, more preferably 7 to 18%. The crimp rate of the polyester yarn B after boiling water treatment is measured according to the method described in the above [Polyester yarn A] column, with the polyester yarn B removed from the composite false twisted yarn.

[Difference in crimp rate of polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B]
The difference in crimp rate after boiling water treatment of the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is 30 to 90%. Thus, the polyester yarn A having latent crimpability of a predetermined single yarn fineness and total fineness and the polyester yarn B of a predetermined single yarn fineness and total fineness are used in combination, and crimped after boiling water treatment of both By setting the difference in rate to the above-mentioned range, it becomes possible to impart good feeling with moderate feeling and soft feeling, appropriate stretchability, and excellent dyeability.

  As a difference in crimp percentage after boiling water treatment of polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B from the viewpoint of more suitably imparting a good texture with a sense of softness and a feeling of softness, an appropriate stretchability, and an excellent dyeability. Preferably 40 to 70%, more preferably 45 to 60% can be mentioned.

  In addition, since the polyester yarn A has a large crimp rate after boiling water treatment as compared with the polyester yarn B, in the present invention, the difference in the crimp ratio between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is determined after the boiling water treatment of the polyester yarn A. The value obtained by subtracting the crimp rate after boiling water treatment of the polyester yarn B from the crimp rate of

[Composite false twist yarn]
The composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention is a composite false-twisted yarn including the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B as constituent yarns.

  In the present invention, "composite false twist" refers to processing a plurality of yarns by false twisting to form one false twisted yarn. That is, the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention is a crimped yarn in which at least one polyester yarn A and at least one polyester yarn B are subjected to false twist processing to form a composite. The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention preferably includes a crimped yarn obtained by performing false twist processing on one polyester yarn A and one polyester yarn B to form a composite.

  With regard to the crimp rate after boiling water treatment of the composite false twisted yarn itself (composite false twist yarn itself after entanglement treatment) of the present invention, the difference between the crimp rates after boiling water treatment of polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B described above is satisfied. Although it does not restrict | limit especially as a limit, For example, 35 to 50%, More preferably, 37 to 47% is mentioned. By satisfying the crimp rate after such boiling water treatment, it becomes possible to more suitably impart a good feeling with a feeling of stiffness and a feeling of softness, appropriate stretchability, and excellent dyeability. The crimp rate of the composite false twist yarn after boiling water treatment is measured according to the method described in the above [Polyester yarn A] column, using the composite false twist yarn as a measurement target yarn.

  The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention preferably includes an entangled portion and a non-entangled portion in the longitudinal direction and the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B do not exhibit a core-sheath structure in the non-entangled portion. As a result, by the heat treatment after forming the woven or knitted fabric, the latent crimp of the polyester yarn having the latent crimp performance can be easily sufficiently expressed.

  In the composite false-twisted yarn of the present invention, the number of entangled parts (number of entangled parts) is not particularly limited, but for example, 90 to 200 / m, preferably 100 to 180 / m, more preferably 110 to 160. Number / m is included. By providing such a number of entanglements, it is possible to more suitably impart a good texture with a sense of hardness and a softness, an appropriate stretchability, and an excellent dyeability. In the present invention, the number of interlacing of the composite false twisted yarn is a value obtained by measurement based on the JIS L1013 8.15 hook method.

[Production method]
The composite false twisted yarn of the present invention can be produced through the following first and second steps.
First step : polyester highly oriented yarn A having a total fineness of 150 to 260 dtex and an elongation of 130 to 160% and a latent crimp performance, and a total fineness of 200 to 370 dtex and an elongation of 130 to 160% A step of aligning the polyester highly oriented yarns B and performing simultaneous drawing and false twisting so as to satisfy the following conditions (i) and (ii):
(i) The polyester highly oriented yarn A (polyester yarn A) after simultaneous drawing and false twisting has a crimp rate of 55% or more after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions.
(ii) The crimped ratio after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions of polyester highly oriented yarn A (polyester yarn A) and polyester highly oriented yarn B (polyester yarn B) after drawing simultaneously and false-twisting is 30 to 90 %become.
Second step : A step of entanglement of the composite false twisted yarn obtained in the first step.

  The polyester highly oriented yarn A used in the first step becomes the polyester yarn A constituting the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention after the drawing simultaneous false twisting processing. Further, the polyester highly oriented yarn B used in the first step becomes a polyester yarn B constituting the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention after the drawing simultaneous false twist processing.

  Hereafter, the manufacturing method of the composite false twist yarn of this invention is demonstrated for every process.

(Step 1)
In the first step, the drawing simultaneous false twisting process is performed using the specific polyester highly oriented yarn A and the polyester highly oriented yarn B.

  In the present invention, the “polyester highly oriented yarn” is an undrawn multifilament yarn obtained by spinning and winding a polyester polymer at a speed of about 2000 to 4000 m / min.

  Since the polyester highly oriented yarn A becomes a polyester yarn A after drawing simultaneous false twisting, it has latent crimpability so that the crimp rate after the above-mentioned boiling water treatment can be satisfied after the drawing simultaneous false twisting. It will be necessary. In order to provide such a latent crimpability in polyester highly oriented yarn A, an eccentric core sheath in which monofilaments constituting polyester highly oriented yarn A are composed of two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability. What is necessary is just to comprise the composite fiber made into the type | mold or the side-by-side type, and the example, ratio, etc. of 2 types of polyester resins from which heat shrinkability differs are as above-mentioned.

  The total fineness of the polyester highly oriented yarn A may be 150 to 260 dtex, preferably 160 to 240 dtex. By satisfying such a total fineness, it becomes possible to preferably satisfy the total fineness of the polyester yarn A described above after the drawing simultaneously and false twisting processing.

  The single yarn fineness of the polyester highly oriented yarn A is determined according to the total fineness and the number of single yarns described above, and for example, 1.5 to 9 dtex, preferably 2.5 to 6.5 dtex, and more preferably 2.5 to 5 5.0 dtex is mentioned.

  The number of single yarns of single fibers constituting the polyester highly oriented yarn A is the same as that of the polyester yarn A.

  The elongation of the polyester highly oriented yarn A may be 130 to 160%, preferably 135 to 155%. In the present invention, the elongation of the polyester highly oriented yarn A is tensioned under the conditions of a sample length of 200 mm and a tension speed of 200 mm / min using a constant speed elongation type tension tester based on JIS L1013 8.5.1. It is a value determined by conducting a test. The measuring method of the elongation of polyester highly oriented yarn B described later is the same.

  Since the polyester highly oriented yarn B is a raw yarn of the polyester yarn B, it is an undrawn multifilament yarn having no latent crimpability or a significantly lower latent crimpability than the polyester yarn A. Accordingly, the type and the like of the polyester resin constituting the polyester highly oriented yarn B are the same as those of the polyester yarn B.

  The total fineness of the polyester highly oriented yarn B may be 200 to 370 dtex, preferably 210 to 350 dtex. By satisfying such a total fineness, it becomes possible to preferably satisfy the total fineness of the polyester yarn B described above after the drawing simultaneously and false twisting processing.

  The single yarn fineness of the polyester highly oriented yarn B is determined according to the above-mentioned total fineness and the number of single yarns, and is, for example, 1.0 to 15 dtex, preferably 2 to 10 dtex.

  The number of single yarns of single fibers constituting the polyester highly oriented yarn B is the same as that of the polyester yarn B.

  The elongation of the polyester highly oriented yarn B may be 130 to 160%, preferably 135 to 155%.

  The difference (absolute value) in the elongation between polyester highly oriented yarn A and polyester highly oriented yarn B is preferably 50% or less, more preferably 0 to 40%, particularly preferably 0 to 30%, most preferably 0 10% can be mentioned. Thus, by reducing the difference in elongation between the two, it is possible to obtain a composite false-twisted yarn capable of more suitably imparting a good feeling with a sense of hardness and a feeling of softness, appropriate stretchability, and excellent dyeability. Becomes possible.

The drawing simultaneous false twisting process is performed so that the polyester highly oriented yarn A and the polyester highly oriented yarn B are aligned to satisfy the following conditions (i) and (ii).
(i) The polyester highly oriented yarn A (polyester yarn A) after simultaneous drawing and false twisting has a crimp rate of 55% or more after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions.
(ii) The difference in the crimp rate after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions of the polyester highly oriented yarn A (polyester yarn A) and the polyester highly oriented yarn B (polyester yarn B) after the drawing simultaneous false-twisting process is 30 ~ 90%.

  In order to satisfy the conditions (i) and (ii), the draw ratio, temperature conditions, twist tension, K value (untwist tension / twist tension), etc. are appropriately adjusted according to the type of false twisting device. do it.

  As a suitable example of the conditions of the drawing simultaneous false twisting process for satisfy | filling the conditions of said (i) and (ii), a draw ratio is 1.3 to 1.6 times, the number of heaters is one, and heater temperature is 180. Preferably, the draw ratio is 1.35 to 1.55, the number of heaters is 1, and the heater temperature is 200 to 280 ° C.

  The false twisting device used in the simultaneous drawing and false twisting process is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a pin, a friction disc, a belt, and the like.

  The twist tension in the simultaneous drawing and false twisting process may be appropriately set so as to satisfy the above conditions (i) and (ii) according to the type of false twisting device to be used. In the case, 0.1 to 0.3 cN / dtex is usually mentioned.

  The K value (untwisting tension / twisting tension) in drawing simultaneous false twisting may be appropriately set so as to satisfy the conditions (i) and (ii) according to the type of false twisting device to be used. Although it is preferable, for example, in the case of disc false twist, it is usually 0.5 to 1.0, preferably 0.6 to 0.9.

(Step 2)
In the second step, the composite false twisted yarn obtained in the first step is subjected to an entangling process.

  In the second step, the confounding processing apparatus (fluid nozzle) used in the confounding process is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include an interlace nozzle, a Taslan nozzle and the like, and preferably an interlace nozzle.

  As an air pressure in confounding processing, 0.2-0.7 MPa, preferably 0.3-0.5 MPa is mentioned, for example.

  Moreover, as an overfeed rate in a confounding process, 2 to 6%, preferably 3 to 5% is mentioned, for example. In the present invention, the term "overfeed rate" refers to a yarn speed immediately before being introduced into the fluid nozzle as V1, and a yarn speed immediately after passing the fluid nozzle as V2, overfeed rate (%) = {(V1-V2) ) / V2} × 100.

(Outline of manufacturing process)
Next, the outline of the manufacturing process of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to the schematic view of FIG. The polyester highly oriented yarn A and the polyester highly oriented yarn B are supplied to the supply roller 1 from the package YA of the polyester highly oriented yarn A and the package YB of the polyester highly oriented yarn B. Then, the polyester highly oriented yarn A and the polyester highly oriented yarn B are aligned by the supply roller 1, passed through the heater 1 and heated, and false-twisted by the false twister 3. Then, the sheet is sent from the first take-up roller 4 to the interlacing device 5 to be subjected to the take-off process, passes through the second take-off roller 6, and is taken up by the take-up roller 7 into the package 8.

[Weaving]
The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is obtained by weaving and knitting the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention and crimping the polyester yarn A contained in the composite false twisted yarn. After weaving and knitting the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention, the polyester yarn A is crimped (represents the latent crimp performance) by heating, swelling, etc., so that it has a good feeling with a sense of hardness and a feeling of softness, and appropriate stretchability And a woven or knitted fabric having excellent dyeability is obtained.

  The conditions for crimping the polyester yarn A after weaving and knitting are not particularly limited and may be appropriately set according to the latent crimp performance of the polyester yarn A. For example, even if the crimp is revealed in a hot water bath Also, even in general dyeing treatment, scouring treatment, heat setting, etc. performed on a woven or knitted fabric, the polyester yarn A is crimped, a good feel with a sense of hardness and a feeling of softness, moderate stretchability And excellent dyeability can be provided.

  The use amount of the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention in the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention may be appropriately set according to the hardness and softness to be imparted, the stretchability, and the dyeability, for example, 60 mass% or more Preferably 70% by mass or more, more preferably 80% by mass or more, 95% by mass or more, or 100% by mass can be mentioned.

  The structure of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may be appropriately set according to the application and the like. For example, if it is a woven fabric, it may be plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and if necessary, a multiple structure etc., and if it is a knit, it may be a round knit palanquin, smooth, warp knit tricot, if necessary. It may be an organization or the like.

  The cover (CF) of the woven and knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but in the case of a woven fabric, for example, CF is 2,000 to 2,900, preferably 2,200 to 2,700.

ＤＴ：マルチフィラメントの繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）
ＷＡＤ：経糸密度（本／２．５４ｃｍ）
ＷＥＤ：緯糸密度（本／２．５４ｃｍ）
なお、マルチフィラメント糸の繊度は、織物の場合はＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６：２０１０ ８．９．９．１．ａのＡ法に従い、測定される。経糸密度及び緯糸密度は、ＪＩＳ Ｌ １０９６：２０１０ ８．６．１Ａ法に従い、測定される。 Here, CF is calculated by the following formula (I) in the case of a woven fabric, and calculated by the following formula (II) in the case of a knitted fabric.

DT: Multifilament fineness (dtex)
WAD: warp density (book / 2.54 cm)
WED: Weft density (book / 2.54 cm)
The fineness of the multifilament yarn is, in the case of a woven fabric, JIS L 1096: 2010 89.9.1. It is measured according to method A of a. The warp density and weft density are measured in accordance with JIS L 1096: 2010 8.6.1A.

  The use of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include uniforms (for office, factory, etc.), sportswear, innerwear, men's clothes, women's clothes and the like. Among them, the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention using the composite false twisted yarn of the present invention has stretchability particularly suitable as a material of a uniform while having good texture with excellent feeling and softness and excellent dyeing properties. And is particularly suitable for uniform applications.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail by way of examples. However, the present invention is not limited by the following examples.

1. Measurement method and evaluation method The measurement and evaluation in the following examples and comparative examples were performed according to the following methods.

(1) Fineness The fineness was measured according to JIS L 1013 8.3.1B. The single fiber fineness was determined by dividing the total fineness by the number of filaments as the single fiber fineness.

(2) Elongation Elongation is based on JIS L1013 8.5.1, using a constant speed elongation type tension tester, by conducting a tensile test under the conditions of a sample length of 200 mm and a tensile speed of 200 mm / min. It was measured.

(3) Crimp ratio after boiling water treatment A thread to be measured was made into a cassette having 5 turns by using a measuring machine with a frame width of 1.125 m, and the cassette was left standing overnight with being suspended from the stand. Next, the cassette was placed in boiling water under a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex (load 1) and subjected to a wet heat treatment for 30 minutes, then lightly absorbed with filter paper and left air-dried for 30 minutes. Next, while a load 1 was applied, a light load (load 2) of 0.00177 cN / dtex was further applied, and the length a (cm) of the cassette was measured. Next, only load 2 was removed, a heavy load (load 3) of 0.044 cN / dtex was applied, and the length b (cm) of the case was measured. And the crimp rate (%) after boiling water treatment was computed according to the following formula. In addition, the measurement of the crimp rate after boiling water treatment was performed about three threads used as a measuring object, and each average was made into the crimp rate after boiling water treatment.
Crimp rate after boiling water treatment (%) = [(ba) / b] × 100

(4) Difference in yarn length of polyester yarn B relative to polyester yarn A in composite false twisted yarn Take a sample 100 cm from the composite false twisted yarn before interlacing treatment, separate polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B, and separate each yarn into 0.1 cN. The yarn length was measured under a load of / dtex, and the yarn length difference (%) was calculated according to the following equation.
Thread length difference (%) = {(L _B- L _A ) / L _B } x 100
L _A : Length of polyester yarn A L _B : Length of polyester yarn B

(5) Number of Interlacing Number The number of interlacing (number / m) of composite false twisted yarn was measured based on JIS L1013 8.15 hook method.

(6) L * value A cylindrical knit fabric of about 30 cm was created from the composite false-twisted yarn using a tubular knitting machine (hook diameter: 3.5 inches, number of needles: 260 N) manufactured by Eiko Sangyo Co., Ltd. Next, scouring and staining were performed under the following conditions. Then, the L * value was measured using a color difference meter (Macbeth spectrophotometer CE-3100 manufactured by Macbeth Co., Ltd.) using the cylindrical knitted fabric subjected to scouring dyeing. The lower the L value, the darker the color.
(Condition of scouring)
Refinement agent: Sunmall FL (manufactured by Nikka Chemical) 1 g / l
Temperature x time: 80 ° C x 20 minutes (dispersion dyeing conditions)
Dye: Dianix Blue UN-SE (manufactured by Dianix) 1% o. m. f
-Auxiliary agent: Nikkasan salt SN-130 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / l
: Acetic acid 0.2 cc / l
・ Temperature × time: 130 ° C. × 30 minutes ・ Bath ratio: 1:30

(7) Stretchability With respect to the obtained woven fabric, stretchability was evaluated by the following criteria by touch.
◎: It is excellent in moderate stretchability which is neither too strong nor too weak.
:: Stretchability is somewhat strong or weak, but moderate stretchability is good.
Δ: Stretchability is strong or weak, but moderate stretchability is common.
X: Stretchability is too strong or too weak.

(8) Texture The texture of the obtained woven fabric was evaluated according to the following criteria by touch.
◎: Remarkable in any of feeling and soft feeling.
:: Both hardness and soft feeling are good.
:: Both of the feeling and soft feeling are common.
X: At least one of the hardness and the feeling of softness are inferior.

The obtained woven fabric was visually evaluated for the quality at the time of dyeing according to the following criteria.
◎: remarkably excellent.
○: Good.
Δ: Normal
X: squeaky feeling, neps, irritability, or muscle-like appearance and inferior

2. Production of Composite False Twisted Yarn and Fabric (Example 1)
As polyester highly oriented yarn A having latent crimp performance, homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.05 and homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47 as a composite ratio (weight ratio: homo PBT / homo PBT) 50/50 in a side-by-side type A composite yarn (200 dtex 48 filaments, elongation 148%) was used. In addition, as a polyester highly oriented yarn B, a homoPET yarn (240 dtex 72 filaments, elongation 142%) was used.

  According to the manufacturing process shown in FIG. 1, polyester highly oriented yarn A and polyester highly oriented yarn B are supplied to the supply roller 1 and a urethane contact disk as the heater 2 and a 9 mm thick urethane disk as the false twister 3 (disk configuration Z1 6-K), using an interlace nozzle as the interlacing device 5, and subjecting it to stretching compound false twisting and entanglement processing under the conditions shown in Table 1 (the air pressure at the time of interlace is 0.37 MPa), A composite false-twisted yarn was obtained. The composite false-twisted yarn thus obtained includes an entangled portion and a non-entangled portion in the longitudinal direction of the polyester, and the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B do not exhibit a core-sheath structure in the non-entangled portion.

  The composite false twist yarn thus obtained was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn to weave a 2/2 twill fabric at a warp density of 82 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 60 yarns / inch.

The obtained woven fabric was scoured at 80 ° C. for 20 minutes with 2 g / l of a nonionic surfactant (Sun Malle, Sanmor FL, Japan) and relaxed at 100 ° C. for 20 minutes. Then, it was dyed under the following staining conditions, and finished set at 170 ° C. to obtain a woven fabric.
(Staining conditions)
Dye: Dianix Blue UN-SE (manufactured by Dianix) 1% o. m. f
-Auxiliary agent: Nikkasan salt SN-130 (manufactured by Nikka Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / l
: Acetic acid 0.2 cc / l
・ Temperature × time: 130 ° C. × 30 minutes ・ Bath ratio: 1:30

(Example 2)
A composite false-twisted yarn was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that homo-PET yarn (216 dtex 96 filaments, elongation 142%) was used as polyester highly oriented yarn B, to obtain a woven fabric. The composite false-twisted yarn thus obtained includes an entangled portion and a non-entangled portion in the longitudinal direction of the polyester, and the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B do not exhibit a core-sheath structure in the non-entangled portion.

(Example 3)
A composite false-twisted yarn was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that homo-PET yarn (329 dtex 48 filaments, elongation 142%) was used as polyester highly oriented yarn B, to obtain a woven fabric. The composite false-twisted yarn thus obtained includes an entangled portion and a non-entangled portion in the longitudinal direction of the polyester, and the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B do not exhibit a core-sheath structure in the non-entangled portion.

(Example 4)
Composite yarns in which homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.05 and homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47 are compounded in a side-by-side type as a composite ratio (weight ratio: homo PBT / homo PBT) 50/50 as polyester highly oriented yarn A Composite false-twisted yarn under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that 172 dtex 62 filaments, elongation 108%) were used, and homo-PET yarn (240 dtex 72 filaments, elongation 142%) was used as polyester highly oriented yarn B. Manufactured and obtained textiles. The composite false-twisted yarn thus obtained includes an entangled portion and a non-entangled portion in the longitudinal direction of the polyester, and the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B do not exhibit a core-sheath structure in the non-entangled portion.

(Comparative example 1)
As polyester highly oriented yarn A having latent crimp performance, homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.05 and homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47 as a composite ratio (weight ratio: homo PBT / homo PBT) 50/50 in a side-by-side type A composite yarn (84 dtex 24 filaments, elongation 108%) was used. In addition, as a polyester highly oriented yarn B, a homoPET yarn (90 dtex 156 filament, elongation 96%) was used.

  Next, pin false twisting was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a composite false twisted yarn.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was woven under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.

(Comparative example 2)
As polyester highly oriented yarn A having latent crimp performance, homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.05 and homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47 as a composite ratio (weight ratio: homo PBT / homo PBT) 50/50 in a side-by-side type A composite yarn (84 dtex 24 filaments, elongation 108%) was used. Moreover, as a polyester highly oriented yarn B, a homoPET yarn (90 dtex 48 filaments, elongation 117%) was used.

  Next, disc false twist was performed under the conditions shown in Table 1 to obtain a composite false twist yarn.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was woven under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.

(Comparative example 3)
Composite yarns in which homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.05 and homo PBT with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47 are compounded in a side-by-side type as a composite ratio (weight ratio: homo PBT / homo PBT) 50/50 as polyester highly oriented yarn A 287 dtex 48 filaments, elongation 148%) were used. A composite false-twisted yarn was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that homo-PET yarn (329 dtex 48 filaments, elongation 142%) was used as polyester highly oriented yarn B.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was woven under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.

(Comparative example 4)
Instead of polyester highly oriented yarn A, homoPET yarn (200 dtex 48 filaments, elongation 148%) was used. A composite false-twisted yarn was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1 except that homo-PET yarn (240 dtex 72 filaments, elongation 142%) was used as polyester highly oriented yarn B.

  The obtained composite false twisted yarn was woven under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a woven fabric.

3. Evaluation results Production of composite false twisted yarn and fabric The evaluation results of each composite false twisted yarn and fabric are shown in Table 2. The knitted fabric obtained in Examples 1 to 4 had appropriate stretchability, had a texture and a feeling of softness and softness, and the quality at the time of dyeing was practically acceptable. In particular, the knitted fabric obtained in Example 1 was remarkably excellent in moderate stretchability, hardness and softness, and quality at the time of dyeing. On the other hand, the knitted fabric obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 4 could not satisfy all the appropriate stretchability, the feeling of softness and the texture at the time of dyeing.

  From the above results, a polyester yarn having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 3.5 dtex, a total fineness of 120 to 170 dtex, and a latent crimpability of 55% or more of a crimp rate after boiling water treatment, and a single yarn fineness of 1.5 A composite temporary yarn having a difference in crimp percentage of 30 to 90% after boiling water treatment between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B, using the polyester yarn B having a total fineness of 150 to 240 dtex and a total fineness of 150 to 240 dtex. It has been revealed that the twisted yarn can impart an appropriate stretchability, a feeling of hardness and softness, and a quality at the time of dyeing.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 supply roller 2 heater 3 false twisting tool 4 first take-up roller 5 interlacing processing device 6 second take-up roller 7 take-up roller 8 package false twisted yarn package YA package of polyester yarn A having latent crimp performance YB other polyester yarn B package

Claims (9)

A composite false twisted yarn comprising polyester yarn A and polyester yarn B, wherein
The latent crimpability of the polyester yarn A having a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 3.5 dtex and a total fineness of 120 to 170 dtex and a crimp percentage after boiling water treatment of 55% or more measured under the following conditions Have
The polyester yarn B has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 5.0 dtex and a total fineness of 150 to 240 dtex,
The composite false twisted yarn, wherein the difference in crimp rate after boiling water treatment measured under the following conditions between the polyester yarn A and the polyester yarn B is 30 to 90%.
<Crimp rate after boiling water treatment>
A thread to be measured is made into a cassette with 5 turns by using a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m, and left for a whole day and night while the cassette is suspended from the stand. Next, the cassette is placed in boiling water under a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex (load 1) and subjected to a wet heat treatment for 30 minutes, and then moisture is lightly taken up by filter paper and left for 30 minutes in air. Next, while a load 1 is applied, a light load (load 2) of 0.00177 cN / dtex is further applied, and the length a (cm) of the cassette is measured. Next, only load 2 is removed, a heavy load (load 3) of 0.044 cN / dtex is applied, and the length b (cm) of the case is measured. Then, the crimp rate (%) is calculated according to the following equation.
Crimp rate after boiling water treatment (%) = [(ba) / b] × 100   The composite false twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein the single fiber constituting the polyester yarn A is a composite fiber including two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkability as a constituent resin.   The composite false twisted yarn according to claim 2, wherein a difference in intrinsic viscosity of the two polyester resins is 0.3 to 0.8 dL / g.   4. The composite according to claim 2, wherein the two polyester resins are homopolyethylene terephthalate in which the repeating units consist essentially of all ethylene terephthalate and homopolyethylene terephthalate in which the repeating units consist substantially of all butylene terephthalate. Twisted yarn.   The composite false twist yarn according to claim 1, wherein the crimp rate of the composite false twist yarn after boiling water treatment measured under the conditions is 35 to 50%.   The composite false twist yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the number of interlacing is 90 to 200 per m. A method of producing the composite false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6,
Polyester highly oriented yarn A having a total fineness of 150 to 260 dtex and an elongation of 130 to 160% and latent crimp performance, and a polyester highly oriented yarn having a total fineness of 200 to 370 dtex and an elongation of 130 to 160% A first step of aligning B simultaneously and performing simultaneous drawing and false twisting processing so as to satisfy the following conditions (i) and (ii):
(i) The polyester highly oriented yarn A (polyester yarn A) after simultaneous drawing and false twisting has a crimp rate of 55% or more after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions.
(ii) The crimped ratio after boiling water treatment measured under the above conditions of polyester highly oriented yarn A (polyester yarn A) and polyester highly oriented yarn B (polyester yarn B) after drawing simultaneously and false-twisting is 30 to 90 %become.
And a second step of entanglement of the composite false twisted yarn obtained in the first step. In the first step, simultaneous drawing and false twisting are performed under the conditions of a false twist heater temperature of 180 to 300 ° C., a draw ratio of 1.3 to 1.6 times, and a heater number of 1.
The method according to claim 7.   A woven or knitted fabric, wherein the composite false twisted yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 6 is woven and knitted, and the polyester yarn A contained in the composite false twisted yarn is crimped.

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