JP6871789B2 - Method for manufacturing composite heathered yarn, woven and knitted yarn, and composite heathered yarn - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a composite heathered yarn, a woven knitted fabric, and a method for producing a composite heathered yarn.

Conventionally, various polyester filaments capable of imparting a heather tone to a woven or knitted fabric have been studied. For example, Patent Document 1 describes a composite false twisted yarn which is excellent in fluffiness and stretchability and can exhibit heather tone when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric.

JP-A-2015-193951

When the technique of Patent Document 1 is used, a processed yarn having excellent fluffiness and stretchability and capable of expressing a fine heather tone can be obtained in the case of a woven or knitted fabric.

On the other hand, there is an increasing need for a natural heather tone as well as a fine heather tone, and for drapeability, there is an increasing need for an excellent feeling of falling. The present invention has been further improved with respect to Patent Document 1 with the aim of achieving a natural heather tone and drape property with a rich feeling of falling. The present invention, when made into a woven or knitted fabric, has excellent fluffiness (repulsion), excellent drapeability with a rich feeling of falling, and a deep-colored (luxury) natural heather tone that is not too precise. The purpose is to obtain a composite heathered yarn that can be expressed.

As a result of diligent studies, the present inventors surprisingly performed simultaneous false twist processing of a cation-undyed polyester conjugated yarn subjected to a specific heat drawing treatment and a cation-dyable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn. The composite heat-processed yarn obtained by false-twisting under low tension and low false-twisting coefficient, which is low tension and low false-twisting coefficient, has a deep (high-class feeling) when it is made into a woven or knitted yarn. ) We have arrived at the present invention by finding that it is capable of expressing a natural tone of color and is also excellent in drapeability and fluffiness.

That is, the present invention provides the inventions of the following aspects.
(1) Cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn having a single fiber fineness of 1 to 10 dtex and a crimp rate of 0 to 5%, and a cation having a single fiber fineness of 1 to 7 dtex and a crimp rate of 15 to 55%. A composite heat-processed yarn containing an undyed polyester conjugated yarn, wherein the content of the cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn is 65 to 90%, and the number of entanglements of the composite heat-processed yarn is 80 to 170 / m. Yes, the composite heat-processed yarn has a crimp ratio of 5 to 25%.

(2) The composite heathered yarn of (1), wherein the K / S value after tube knitting dyeing is 8.5 or more at the time of blue dyeing.

(3) The composite heathered yarn of (1) or (2), wherein the L * value after the tube knitting dyeing is 21 or less at the time of black dyeing.

(4) A method for producing a composite heathered yarn according to (1) to (3), which comprises the following steps (a) to (c).
(A) Cationic undyed high-orientation undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA having a single fiber fineness of 1.5 to 10 dtex is subjected to a thermal drawing treatment at a draw ratio of 1.5 to 1.7 times and a heat treatment temperature of 140 to 160 ° C. Step of obtaining drawn yarn (b) The drawn yarn and the cationic dye dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 10 dtex are subjected to the following conditions (i) to (iv). Step of obtaining false twisted yarn by performing simultaneous false twisting (i) 0.04 ≤ T ₁ ≤ 0.15
(Ii) 16000 ≤ T _W ≤ 26000
(Iii) -5 ≤ OF ≤ 1
(Iv) 140 ≤ HT ≤ 160
However, _{T 1:} twisting tension _{(cN / dtex), T W} : false twisting coefficient, OF: overfeed rate when false twisting, HT: a false twisting temperature (° C.).
(C) Step of mixing and entwining the false twisted yarn

A woven or knitted fabric containing the composite heathered yarn according to (1) to (3).

According to the composite heathered yarn of the present invention, it is possible to obtain a high-quality woven or knitted fabric which is excellent in drape and fluffiness (repulsion) with a rich feeling of falling and can express a natural heather tone with a deep color. Can be done. Further, according to the manufacturing method of the present invention, such a composite heathered yarn can be efficiently manufactured.

FIG. 5 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing an embodiment of a composite shape of a cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn used in the production method of the present invention. It is a process schematic which shows one Embodiment of the manufacturing method of the composite heathered yarn of this invention.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
[Composite heathered yarn]
The composite heathered yarn of the present invention has a drape property and drapeability when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric by using a cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn as a specific mixed fiber ratio and a crimp ratio as low as 5 to 25%. It has an excellent fluffy feeling (repulsion) and can express a natural heather tone that gives a deep color.

Cationic undyed polyester conjugate yarn (hereinafter, may be referred to as cationic undyed yarn) will be described below.
The crimp ratio of the cationic undyed yarn is 15 to 55%, preferably 25 to 45%, and more preferably 30 to 45%. That is, the cationic undyed yarn has an appropriate crimping property that is not too strong. By having such a crimping property, even if the content of the cationic dyeable yarn is increased, it is possible to develop a natural heather tone that is not too dense. If the crimp ratio is less than 15%, the stretchability and fluffiness are inferior when made into a woven knit, while when it exceeds 55%, the crimp is too strong, so that the stretchability is strong when made into a woven knit. It becomes too much, and it is inferior in drapeability with a rich feeling of falling, and the heather tone becomes too fine, and it is not possible to express a natural heather tone with a deep color, and it is inferior in luxury. As will be described later, in the cationic non-dyed yarn, two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage are bonded to each other, and for example, crimping is exhibited by applying heat. In order to keep the crimp rate of the cationic undyed yarn in such a range, for example, the heat treatment temperature in the heat drawing treatment described later may be set to 140 to 160 ° C., two types of polyester polymers may be selected as preferable ones, or tentatively described later. The false twist coefficient or temperature in the twisting process can be set in a preferable range.

The crimp ratio in the present invention can be obtained by measuring, for example, by the following method. First, a sample is squeezed with a frame circumference of 1.125 m with 5 turns, and then the skein is hung on a stand in a free state at room temperature for a whole day and night. Next, the skein is put into boiling water with a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex applied and subjected to a wet heat treatment for 30 minutes. Then, take out the skein, lightly remove the water with a filter paper, and leave it in a free state at room temperature for 30 minutes. Then, a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex and 0.00177 cN / dtex (light load) are applied to the skein, and the length X is measured. Subsequently, while the load of 0.000147 cN / dtex is applied, a load of 0.044 cN / dtex (heavy load) is applied instead of the light load, and the length Y is measured. Then, it is calculated based on the formula of crimp ratio (%) = (YX) / Y × 100. The crimp ratio is measured for five samples, and the average of each is taken as the crimp ratio of the sample (thread).

The cation-undyed yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is formed by bonding two types of polymers having different heat shrinkage properties, and a known polyester polymer having fiber-forming property is arbitrarily selected and used. be able to. For example, homopolyethylene terephthalate (homo PET) in which the repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate is used. In addition, polybutylene terephthalate, polytetramethylene terephthalate and the like can also be used. When two types of polyesters having different heat shrinkages are the same polyester, the heat shrinkage can be made different by making the ultimate viscosities of the two different. That is, PET having a relatively low ultimate viscosity can be used as a low heat shrinkable polyester, and PET having a high extreme viscosity can be used as a high heat shrinkable polyester.

When the two types of polyesters are the same, the difference in ultimate viscosity (η) is preferably 0.08 to 0.25, preferably 0.09 to 0.20, from the viewpoint of exhibiting stable crimpability. Is more preferable.

The combination of the two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkage is not particularly limited as long as the crimp ratio satisfies the above range, and polyethylene terephthalates having different extreme viscosities (hereinafter, may be abbreviated as PET) are used. , Isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, bisphenol A or PET obtained by copolymerizing 2,2-bis {4- (β-hydroxy) phenyl} propane and PET in which the repeating unit is substantially all ethylene terephthalate. (Hereinafter, it may be abbreviated as Homo PET), a combination of Homo PET and polybutylene terephthalate (hereinafter, may be abbreviated as Homo PBT) in which the repeating unit is substantially all butylene terephthalate, etc. Can be mentioned. When the combination of the polymers is a combination of homo PET and homo PBT, the drape property in a woven or knitted fabric tends to be particularly excellent. In the case of a combination of homo PET and homo PBT, the ultimate viscosity of homo PET is preferably 0.30 to 0.60, and the ultimate viscosity of homo PBT is preferably 0.80 to 1.30. The mass ratio of homo PET to homo PBT (homo PET / homo PBT) is preferably 30/70 to 50/50.

Further, when different kinds of polyesters are used, the heat shrinkage may be different even if the ultimate viscosities are the same. In such a case, it is not always necessary to provide a difference in the ultimate viscosities. In addition, the ultimate viscosity of the highly heat-shrinkable polyester may be lower than the limit viscosity of the low heat-shrinkable polyester. For example, as a highly heat-shrinkable polyester, one or more components of isophthalic acid, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and 2,2-bis [4- (B-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane are copolymerized. When the polymerized PET is used and the homopet polymer is used as the low heat shrinkable polyester, the heat shrinkage rate of the copolymerized PET polymer is relatively high, so that the ultimate viscosity of any polyester may be high. For example, the highly heat-shrinkable polyester contains 5 to 10 mol% of isophthalic acid and 3 to 8 mol% of 2,2-bis [4- (B-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane as a copolymerization component, and has an extreme viscosity (η). ) Is 0.50 to 1.50, and PET having an ultimate viscosity (η) of 0.30 to 0.60 is used as the low heat shrinkable polyester. With such a combination, it is possible to obtain a composite heathered yarn that can exhibit an appropriate crimping property that is not too strong, and when it is made into a woven or knitted material, it has a natural heather tone, a drape property with a rich drop feeling, and a fluffy feeling. Preferred for excellence. Further, as for the mass ratio in that case, when the ratio of the former / the latter is set to 50/50 to 70/35, a natural heather tone, a drape property with a rich feeling of falling, and a feeling of fluffiness can be further expressed.

The single fiber fineness of the cationic undyed yarn is 1 to 7 dtex, more preferably 1 to 6.8 dtex, further preferably 1 to 6.5 dtex, particularly preferably 2 to 5 dtex, and 2.5. Most preferably, it is ~ 3dtex. By setting the single fiber fineness in such a range, resilience and fluffiness can be expressed well, and the texture is less likely to be hardened, and the degree of mixed fiber entanglement is weak and the state of heather is reduced. It is possible to express an appearance that has both a natural heather tone and a deep hue.

The number of filaments of the cationic undyed yarn is preferably 10 to 30 in order to keep the content of the cationic dyeable yarn in an appropriate range and to achieve both a natural heather tone and a deep color. The total fineness of the cationic undyed yarn is preferably 32 to 38 dtex for the same reason.

Cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn (hereinafter, may be referred to as cationic dyeable yarn) will be described below.
The crimp ratio of the cationic dyeable yarn is 0 to 5%, preferably 0 to 3%. That is, the cationic dyeable yarn has a lower crimpability than the cationically undyed yarn. If it exceeds 5%, the crimping property of the composite heathered yarn as a whole becomes too strong (the crimping rate exceeds 25%), and when it is woven or knitted, it gives a natural heather tone and a feeling of falling. Neither is preferable because it is inferior in abundant drape. In order to set the crimp ratio of the cationic dyeable yarn in such a range, for example, the false twist temperature in the simultaneous false twist processing described later can be set to 140 to 160 ° C.

The elongation of the cationic dyeable yarn is preferably 110 to 130%, more preferably 115 to 125% from the viewpoint of dyeing more deeply because the progress of orientation is suppressed.

The cationic dyeable yarn is not particularly limited as long as it is dyed with a cationic dye. For example, polyethylene terephthalate composed of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid is mixed with 0.5 to 5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid. Examples include those that have been polymerized. By setting the copolymerization ratio of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid to 0.5 to 5 mol%, a natural texture that is not too dense when made into a woven or knitted fabric is expressed while maintaining the spinnability of the filament yarn. The copolymerization ratio is more preferably 1.0 to 3.5 mol%. As a result, the polyester of the other fiber constituting the composite heat-processed yarn can be made dyeable to the cationic dye, and the polyester of the other fiber is made cation-unstainable, for example, made of homo-PET, and the composite heat-cutting is obtained. When a woven or knitted fabric using yarn is dyed with a cationic dye and a disperse dye, it is possible to express a heather tone having a different color effect on the woven or knitted fabric.

The single fiber fineness of the cationic dyeable yarn is 1 to 10 dtex, preferably 1.5 to 5 dtex, and more preferably 1.5 to 3 dtex. By setting the single fiber fineness within the above range, it is possible to prevent the single fibers from becoming too thin and becoming densely entangled, the dyeing concentration becoming thin, and the degree of mixed fiber entanglement being weak and becoming a heather state, which is natural. It is possible to express a high-class appearance that can achieve both a gentle heather tone and a deep hue.

The number of filaments of the cationic dyeable yarn is preferably 20 to 70 in order to keep the content of the cationic dyeable yarn in an appropriate range and to achieve both a natural heather tone and a deep color tone. The total fineness of the cationic dyeable yarn is preferably 70 to 175 dtex for the same reason.

The composite heathered yarn of the present invention has an appropriate crimping property that is not too strong as a whole. In the composite heathered yarn of the present invention, the degree of crimping, that is, the crimping rate is 5 to 25%, preferably 8 to 20%, and more preferably 8 to 15%. By having such a crimp ratio, the stretchability is not excessively high when the knitted fabric is woven, the fluffiness and the drapeability are excellent, and a natural heather tone can be expressed. In order to keep the crimp ratio of the composite heathered yarn in the above range, for example, the conditions in the heat drawing treatment or the simultaneous false twisting described later may be preferable, or the composition of the cationic dyeable yarn and the cationic undyed yarn (for example, Fineness, crimp rate, etc.) can be preferred.

The composite heathered yarn is mixed and entangled as a whole yarn. The number of entangled composite heathered yarns is 80 to 170 yarns / m, preferably 100 to 150 yarns / m. When the number of entanglements is less than 80 / m, the entangled state is easily unraveled, and a feeling of fluffiness and a natural heather tone are less likely to occur. Further, when the entangled state becomes easy to be unwound, the guide wear inevitably received in the manufacturing process of the woven or knitted material causes the inside of the yarn to be displaced, and it is easy to induce defects in the woven or knitted material. On the other hand, when the number of entanglements exceeds 170 / m, the cationic dyed yarn and the cationic undyed yarn are entangled too tightly, resulting in a hard texture and poor drapeability and natural heather tone. In order to set the number of entangled yarns of the composite heathered yarn in the above range, for example, the false twist coefficient, the air pressure, and the overfeed rate of the false twist zone under the simultaneous false twisting processing conditions described later can be set in an appropriate range. In the present invention, the number of entanglements is a value obtained by measuring based on the JIS L1013 8.15 hook method.

In the composite heathered yarn of the present invention, the content (mass ratio) of the cationic dyeable yarn is 65 to 90% by mass, preferably 67 to 85% by mass, and preferably 69 to 85% by mass. More preferably, it is more preferably 70 to 85% by mass, and even more preferably 70 to 85% by mass. When the mass ratio (mixture ratio) of the cationic dyeable yarn is less than 65%, the ratio of the cationic dyeable yarn in the composite heathered yarn is too small, so that the natural heather tone, deep color and drape property are poor. On the other hand, when the mixing ratio of the cationic dyed yarn exceeds 90% by mass, the natural heather tone and fluffy feeling become poor.

In the composite heathered yarn of the present invention, at least one of the cationic dyeable yarn and the cationic undyed yarn is to contain an appropriate additive (for example, an antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, a deodorant, etc.). Therefore, it is possible to impart a secondary function to the composite heathered yarn.

The composite heathered yarn of the present invention has a high-quality appearance that has both a natural heather tone and a deep color. Therefore, the K / S value at the time of tube knitting dyeing is 8.5 at the time of blue dyeing. It is preferably 9 or more, and more preferably 9 or more. The composite heathered yarn of the present invention has an L * value at the time of cylinder knitting dyeing of 20 or less at the time of black dyeing in order to have an excellent high-class appearance that has both a natural heather tone and a deep color. It is preferable, and it is more preferable that it is 19 or less. The method of measuring the K / S value and the L * value will be described in detail in Examples.

In order to set the above L * value and K / S value in a specific range, for example, the content of cationic dyeable yarn may be set to an appropriate range, the crimp rate may be set to an appropriate range not too strong, or the constituent fibers may be set. The single fiber fineness of is in an appropriate range.

[Manufacturing method of composite heathered yarn]
In the method for producing a composite heathered yarn of the present invention, first, a cationic undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA and a cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB are prepared. By going through each step of the production method of the present invention, the cationic undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA becomes the above cationic undyed yarn, and the cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB becomes the above cationic dyeable yarn. It becomes a thread.

The cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA will be described below.
The cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA has a single yarn fineness of 1.5 to 10 dtex, preferably 2 to 8 dtex. By setting the single yarn fineness of the cationic undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA to this range, the single yarn fineness of the cationic undyed yarn is within the above range (that is, 1 to 7 dtex) when the composite heathered yarn is obtained. ). If it is less than 1.5 dtex, the entire yarn becomes thin and too soft, and when it is woven or knitted, the elasticity may be insufficient, or the fluffiness and drapeability may be inferior. Further, when the single yarn fineness exceeds 10 dtex, an appropriate fluffy feeling is insufficient, and only a hard texture can be obtained, which is not preferable.

The cation-undyed, highly oriented, unstretched polyester conjugate yarn YA can be made of, for example, a composite fiber in which two types of polyester resins having different heat shrinkages are eccentric core-sheath type or side-by-side type. The side-by-side type is preferable from the viewpoint of giving a fluffy feeling and stable crimpability to the woven or knitted fabric.

FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing an embodiment (side-by-side type) of a composite shape of a cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA. As the side-by-side type in the present invention, the joint surfaces of the two types of polyesters shown in FIG. 1 (A) are linearly and substantially equally bonded, and the joint surfaces shown in FIG. 1 (B) are curved. The ones that are joined together can be mentioned.

In the production method of the present invention, the elongation of the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA is preferably 105 to 130%, more preferably 110 to 125%. By setting the elongation to 105 to 130%, the obtained composite heathered yarn is less likely to have unstable physical properties due to external factors in the weaving and knitting process, and it becomes easier to obtain a woven and knitted fabric with stable quality. .. Elongation shall be measured and calculated according to JIS L 1013: 2010 8.5.1 Elongation Standard Time Test.

The cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB will be described below.
The cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB preferably has a single yarn fineness of 1 to 10 dtex, more preferably 2 to 8 dtex. Thereby, the single fiber fineness of the cationic dyeable yarn can be set in the above range. If the single yarn fineness of the cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB is less than 1 dtex, the single yarn fineness is too thin and the fiber opening effect of the yarn is insufficient, and the entanglement effect between the yarns is deteriorated, resulting in poor entanglement. It may be unfavorable because it occurs and the natural tone is poor, or fluff is likely to occur. On the other hand, if it exceeds 10 dtex, the fineness of the single yarn becomes too thick and the entanglement becomes loose, and the number of entanglements of the obtained composite heathered yarn may be out of the above range.

The elongation of the cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB is preferably 110 to 130%, more preferably 115 to 125%. When the elongation of the cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB is within such a range, the yarn breakage is further suppressed in the processing operation during the simultaneous false twisting process described later, and the cationic dyed polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB is further suppressed. At the time of spinning, yarn breakage or deterioration of quality is suppressed, and stable supply becomes easier.

The total fineness of the cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB is preferably 70 to 175 dtex, and more preferably 74 to 165 dtex. When the total fineness of the cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB is in such a range, it is preferable because it is not too fine and therefore has a more excellent fluffy feeling and the texture is not too hard.

In the production method of the present invention, first, the cation-undyed high-orientation undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA is subjected to heat drawing processing to obtain drawn yarn (heat drawing processing step).

The conditions for the hot stretching process are a heat treatment temperature of 140 to 160 ° C., preferably 150 to 160 ° C., and a stretching ratio of 1.50 to 1.70 times, preferably 1.55 to 1.65 times. When the draw ratio is less than 1.50 times, or when the heat treatment temperature is less than 140 ° C., the above-mentioned crimping property (crimping rate is 15 to 55%) can be exhibited in the cationic undyed yarn. However, when it is woven or knitted, it cannot give a feeling of fluffiness or resilience. Furthermore, when the draw ratio exceeds 1.70 times, or when the heat treatment temperature exceeds 160 ° C., yarn breakage and fluff may occur during yarn processing, which is not preferable.

The crimp ratio of the drawn yarn obtained by thermally drawing the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA is preferably 15 to 55%, preferably 30 to 45%. By setting the crimp ratio of the drawn yarn to 15 to 55%, it is possible to obtain a more appropriate crimped state when the composite heathered yarn of the present invention is obtained, and the natural heather tone is superior and even better. It is possible to impart a drape property rich in fluffy feeling, resilience and falling feeling.

Next, the drawn yarn that has undergone the heat drawing process and the cationic dyeable polyester high-orientation undrawn yarn YB are simultaneously false-twisted to obtain a false-twisted yarn (simultaneous false-twisting process). It is preferable to set the following specific conditions (i) to (iv) in the simultaneous false twisting process.
(I) The twisting tension (T ₁ ) is 0.04 cN / dtex ≤ T ₁ ≤ 0.15 cN / dtex, preferably 0.05 cN / dtex ≤ T ₁ ≤ 0.11 cN / dtex.
(Ii) false twisting coefficient _{(T W)} to 16000 ≦ _{T W} ≦ 26000, preferably 18000 ≦ _{T W} ≦ 25000
(Iii) False twist overfeed (OF) rate of -5% ≤ OF ≤ 1%, preferably -3% ≤ OF ≤ 0.6%.
(Iv) The false twist temperature is 140 ° C. ≤ HT ≤ 160 ° C., preferably 140 ° C. ≤ HT ≤ 150 ° C.

By performing false twisting under these conditions, the cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB becomes a low orientation yarn in which the progress of orientation is suppressed, and at the same time, it has high elongation and low crimp with little cross-sectional deformation. It becomes a cationic dyeable yarn. On the other hand, the drawn yarn is subjected to a heat drawing process in the previous step, and the yarn form in a high crimp state becomes a low crimp form, and the yarn morphology and the yarn physical characteristics are changed between the cationic dyed yarn and the cationic undyed yarn. In order to make it different, when the mixed fiber entanglement treatment described later is applied, it gives an excellent appearance with a natural texture and deep color, and when it is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it has a drape property rich in fluffiness, resilience and falling feeling. Obtainable.

If the twisting tension (T ₁ ) is less than 0.04 cN / dtex, or if the false twist OF rate exceeds 1%, the processing tension is too low to induce yarn breakage, which is not preferable. Further, when the confounding tension (T ₁ ) exceeds 0.15 cN / dtex, or when the false twist OF ratio is less than -5%, the yarns are excessively stretched and an extreme difference in yarn length occurs, resulting in processing. It is not preferable because it causes thread breakage, fluff induction, or partial confounding spots. Further, when the twisting tension (T ₁ ) and the false twist OF ratio are in the above ranges, the orientation of the cationic dyed yarn proceeds appropriately, so that the deep color and the natural heather tone are more excellent. When the false twist OF ratio is less than 0% (negative range), it indicates a stretched state.

If false twist coefficient (T _W) is less than 16000, the number of false-twist is too low become a paper-like hard texture to become too small confounding number of the above, it can not be granted natural Mokucho, swelling feeling, If it exceeds 26000, the crimped form of the entire thread becomes strong, and it is not possible to express a drape property and a fluffy feeling with a rich feeling of falling.

Further, if the false twist temperature (HT) is less than 140 ° C., the yarns are not sufficiently heat-fixed during false twisting, resulting in high shrinkage characteristics. There is. On the other hand, when the false twist temperature (HT) exceeds 160 ° C., the cationic dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB tends to be weak yarn, and fluffing occurs frequently, which causes troubles in unwinding or weaving. Therefore it is not preferable. Further, when the false twist temperature (HT) is in the above range, the orientation of the cationic dyeable yarn proceeds appropriately, so that an appropriate crimping property that is not too strong can be exhibited, and the drape has a feeling of falling. It is superior in sex, deep color and natural heather tone.

Examples of the false twisting apparatus include pins, friction discs, and the like, and are not particularly limited as long as they can be crimped.

Next, the false twisted yarn obtained as described above is mixed and entangled (mixed fiber entanglement step). This makes it easier to obtain a natural heather tone with a deep hue. As the mixed fiber entanglement treatment, a method of imparting entanglement using a fluid nozzle can be adopted, and a Taslan nozzle, an interlaced nozzle, or the like can be preferably adopted.

As the conditions of the mixed fiber entanglement step, for example, the air pressure is preferably set to 0.2 to 0.4 MPa, and the overfeed rate is preferably set to 1 to -1%. Regarding this mixed fiber entanglement treatment, either a continuous process or a discontinuous process may be selected depending on the purpose.

The composite heathered yarn of the present invention may be used without twisting, but by performing additional twisting in the range of the twist coefficient (R) of 5000 to 30000, a wider variety of heather tones can be expressed. .. The twist coefficient (R) can be calculated by the following formula.

Twist coefficient ^{_{(R) = T R × D}} 1/2
T _R: number of twists (times / M)
D ^1/2 : Total fineness of composite heathered yarn (dtex)

Next, an example of manufacturing the composite heathered yarn of the present invention will be described with reference to FIG.
The cation-undyed, highly oriented, unstretched polyester conjugate yarn YA is heat-stretched by the heat treatment heater 2 between the first supply roller 1 and the first take-up roller 3 to become drawn yarns (heat-stretching process). Next, the drawn yarn obtained by drawing the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA and the cation-dyed polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB are aligned with each other in the second supply roller 4 It is supplied to the false twist processing area between the and the second take-up roller 7, and simultaneous false twist processing is performed using the false twist heater 5 and the false twist pin device 6 (simultaneous false twist processing step).

Next, the second take-up roller 7 guides the user to the fluid processing area, and the third take-up roller 9 is subjected to fluid injection by, for example, a fluid nozzle 8, so that the fibers are mixed and entangled (mixed fiber entanglement step). The composite heat-processed yarn of the present invention is obtained. The obtained composite heathered yarn may be wound up on the package 11 by the take-up roller 10 via the third take-up roller 9.

[Woven knit]
The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven and knitted fabric in which the composite heathered yarn of the present invention is woven and knitted. Preferably, the composite heathered yarn of the present invention is contained in a mixing ratio of 50% by mass or more, and is 60% by mass or more, in order to be excellent in drapeability and fluffiness and excellent in natural heather tone with a deep color. It is more preferable that the mixture is contained in the mixture ratio of. Examples of fibers other than the composite heat-processed yarn of the present invention that can be contained in the woven and knitted fabric of the present invention include ordinary synthetic fibers and natural fibers, the form of which may be short fibers or long fibers. It may be a composite yarn such as a blended yarn.

When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven fabric, the cover factor (CF) of the woven fabric is preferably 1800 to 3000, although it is not particularly limited.
The cover factor (CF) is a numerical value of the coarseness and density of a woven or knitted fabric, and is calculated by the following formula in the case of a woven fabric. Here, in the formula, D indicates the total fineness of the warp threads. E indicates the total fineness of the weft.
CF = D ^1/2 x warp density (book ^/ 2.54 cm) + E 1/2 x weft density (book / 2.54 cm)

When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric, the surface density is preferably 100 to 130 courses / 2.54 cm and 80 to 100 wales / 2.54 cm, although not particularly limited.

The basis weight of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably ^{80 to 150 g / m 2 or less.}

The structure of the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, and an appropriate structure (plain weave, twill weave, satin weave for woven fabrics, multiple textures as necessary, circular knitted fabric, smooth, warp knitted tricot for knitted fabrics). , Multiple organizations if necessary) may be adopted.

[Manufacturing method of woven and knitted fabrics]
The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention can be obtained by weaving and knitting the above-mentioned composite heathered yarn to obtain a raw machine and then performing arbitrary post-processing. The weaving and knitting may be performed by using a known weaving machine and a knitting machine, and the preparatory step prior to the weaving and knitting may also use a known equipment.

Post-processing includes, for example, processing for refining and relaxing the raw machine, ordinary water-repellent processing, or calendar processing. After scouring and relaxing, preset the woven and knitted fabric. The preset is usually dry heat treated using a pin tenter. After the preset, it may be dyed according to a conventional method, and then the final set may be performed if necessary.

The woven and knitted fabric of the present invention using the composite heat-processed yarn of the present invention is suitably used for clothing applications, particularly uniform wear applications, ladies' wear applications, and sportswear applications.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples. The present invention is not limited to this example. The measurement method or evaluation method in the examples of the present invention is as follows.

1. 1. Fineness Measured according to JIS L1013 8.3.1.

2. Curing rate After removing the sample with a measuring machine with a frame circumference of 1.125 m with 5 turns, the sample was hung on a stand in a free state at room temperature for a whole day and night. Next, the skein was put into boiling water with a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex applied and subjected to a wet heat treatment for 30 minutes. Then, the skein was taken out, the water was lightly removed with a filter paper, and the mixture was left in a free state at room temperature for 30 minutes. Then, a load of 0.000147 cN / dtex and 0.00177 cN / dex (light load) were applied to the skein, and the length X was measured. Subsequently, while the load of 0.000147 cN / dtex was applied, a load of 0.044 cN / dtex (heavy load) was applied instead of the light load, and the length Y was measured. Then, it was calculated based on the formula of crimp ratio (%) = (YX) / Y × 100. The crimp ratio was measured for each of five samples, and the average of each sample was taken as the crimp ratio of the sample.

(3) Content of cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn Calculated based on the following formula.
Content rate (%) = [B / C] x 100
However, C: the total fineness (dtex) of the composite heathered yarn, and B: the processed yarn fineness (dtex) of the cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn.

(4) false twisting coefficient false twisting coefficient _{T W} = √ composite heather total fineness of yarn (dtex) × number false twist (T / M)

(5) Twisting tension (cN / dtex)
Twisting tension T ₁ = Twisting tension (cN) T ₁ / Total fineness of composite heathered yarn (dtex)

(6) Number of entanglements A stand with a chuck at the top and a stand of about 100 cm with 1 cm below it as the origin was prepared. After sandwiching one end of the sample with the chuck at the upper end of the scale, the sample was hung vertically, and a load of 0.1 cN / dtex was applied to the lower part of the sample to mark the upper and lower parts with a marking length of 50 cm. Next, a hook is inserted at the marking point on the upper part of the sample so as to divide the thread bundle into two, the hook is lowered, the part where the hook is stopped by the entanglement of the thread is used as the entangled portion, and this is repeated to make the marking length 50 cm. I counted the number of confoundings in between. The average number of confounding was calculated by measuring 5 times by this method, and the number obtained by the following formula was used as the number of confounding.
Number of confounding (pieces / m) = (average number of confounding / 50 cm) x 2

(7) L * value and K / S after tube knitting dyeing
<How to make a cylinder knitting machine>
A cylinder knitting machine of about 30 cm was produced using a cylinder knitting machine manufactured by Eiko Sangyo Co., Ltd. (kettle diameter: 3.5 inches, number of needles: 260 N). Then, refining and dyeing were performed under the following conditions.

(Refining conditions)
・ Refining agent: Sunmol FL (NICCA CHEMICAL) 1g / L
-Temperature x time: 80 ° C x 20 minutes

(I) Blue dyeing formulation / dye: Aizen Catiron Blue CD-F2RLH (manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1% omf
・ Auxiliary agent: Acetic acid 0.2cc / L

(Ii) Black dyeing prescription / dye: Kayacl Black R-ED (manufactured by Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd.) 10% omf
・ Auxiliary agent: Acetic acid 0.2cc / L

(Other dyeing conditions)
・ Bath ratio: 1:50
-Temperature x time: 130 ° C x 30 minutes (cleaning conditions)
-Reducing detergent: Biznor P-55 (one company oil and fat industry) 5 g / L
-Temperature x time: 80 ° C x 20 minutes (set conditions)
-Temperature x time: 170 ° C x 20 minutes Fold the tubular knitted fabric dyed with the above dyeing method so that light does not penetrate, and use a spectrophotometer "MS-CE3100" manufactured by Macbeth. , The reflectance was measured, the density index was obtained from the color difference formula of CIE Lab, and the L * value and K / S were obtained. The smaller the L * value, the deeper the color, and the larger the K / S value, the deeper the color.

(8) Sensory evaluation The obtained woven and knitted fabric was evaluated by touch or visual, and judged according to the following criteria.
(Natural heather tone with deep color)
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Normal ×: Bad

(Drape with a feeling of falling)
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Normal ×: Bad

(Fukurami feeling, resilience)
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Normal ×: Bad

<Example 1>
High thermal shrinkage of copolymerized polyester terephthalate (PET) (extreme viscosity: 0.63) containing 8 mol% isophthalic acid and 5 mol% 2,2-bis [4- (B-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl] propane as copolymerization components. It was used as a sex polyester, and polyester terephthalate (PET) (extreme viscosity: 0.53) was used as a low heat shrinkable polyester. Then, composite spinning was performed while joining both polyesters in a side-by-side type, and a cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugated yarn YA (elongation: 118.2%) of 56 decitex 28 filaments was prepared.

Cationic dyed polyester undrawn yarn YB, which has an elongation of 120.5% and is copolymerized with 1.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as an acidic component using ethylene terephthalate as the main repeating unit (78 decitex 36). Filament) was prepared. Using the two supplied yarns YA and YB, the composite heathered yarn (113 decitex 64 filament) of the present invention was obtained under the yarn processing conditions shown in Table 1 according to the process shown in FIG. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

The evaluations in Examples and Comparative Examples are summarized in Tables 1 and 2.

<Example 2>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, the combination of polyester is the same as in Example 1, and 56 decitex 10 filaments (elongation 115.2%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, a 156 decitex 72 filament (elongation 123.4%) was used. Accordingly, the processing conditions as shown in Table 1 were adopted to obtain a composite heathered yarn of 188 decitex 82 filaments. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Example 3>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, the combination of polyester is the same as in Example 1, and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, a yarn having 30 decitex and 30 filaments (elongation: 119.8%) was used. Accordingly, the processing conditions as shown in Table 1 were adopted to obtain a composite heathered yarn of 65 decitex 42 filaments. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Example 4>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, the combination of polyester is the same as in Example 1, and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, a 78 decitex 8-filament yarn (elongation 120.3%) was used. A composite heathered yarn of 113 decitex 20 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 except for the above. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Example 5>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, the combination of polyester is the same as in Example 1, and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, 78 decitex 36 filaments (elongation 120.5%) were used. A composite heathered yarn of 113 decitex 48 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 except for the above. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Example 6>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, the combination of polyester is the same as in Example 1, and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, a 156 decitex 72 filament yarn (elongation 123.4%) was used. A composite heathered yarn of 188 decitex 84 filament was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 2 except for the above. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Example 7>
The number of false twists under the simultaneous false twist processing conditions is Z twist-2379 (T / m), the false twist coefficient is 24951, and other than that, the composite heather processing of 113 decitex 48 filaments is performed under the same processing conditions as in Example 1. I got a thread. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Example 8>
The number of false twists under the simultaneous false twist processing conditions is Z twist-1526 (T / m), the false twist coefficient is 16005, and other than that, the composite heather processing of 113 decitex 48 filaments is performed under the same processing conditions as in Example 1. I got a thread. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Example 9>
A composite heathered yarn of 113 decitex 48 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 except that the air pressure was set to 0.39 MPa under the simultaneous false twist processing conditions. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 1 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative example 1>
As the cationic undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination is the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 40 filaments (elongation 117%) are used, and the cationic dyed polyester is highly oriented undrawn. As the yarn YB, 78 decitex 36 filaments (elongation 120.5%) were used. A processed yarn of 113 decitex 76 filament was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 except for the above. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative example 2>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination of the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 5 filaments (elongation 116.2%) was used, and the other yarns were used in Example 1. Under the same processing conditions as above, a processed yarn of 113 decitex 41 filament was obtained. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative example 3>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination is the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, one with 78 decitex 100 filaments (elongation: 121.9%) was used, and other than that, a processed yarn with 113 decitex 112 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative example 4>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination is the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, a 156 decitex 14 filament yarn (elongation 122.7%) was used, and a processed yarn of 188 decitex 26 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 2 except for the undrawn yarn YB. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative example 5>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination is the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, a yarn having 30 decitex 12 filaments (elongation: 119.7%) was used, and accordingly, a processed yarn with 65 decitex 24 filaments was obtained under the processing conditions as shown in Table 2. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative Example 6>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, the combination of polyester is the same as in Example 1, and 20 decitex 10 filaments (elongation 107.2%) are used, and the cation dyed polyester is highly oriented. As the undrawn yarn YB, a 240 decitex 120 filament yarn (elongation 127.5%) was used. Along with this, a processed yarn of 253 decitex 130 filament was obtained under the processing conditions as shown in Table 2. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative Example 7>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination of the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) was used, and under simultaneous false twisting conditions. A processed yarn of 113 decitex 48 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 except that the air pressure was 0.49 MPa. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative Example 8>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination of the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) was used, and under simultaneous false twisting conditions. A processed yarn of 113 decitex 48 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 except that the air pressure was 0.10 MPa. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative Example 9>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination of the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) was used, and under simultaneous false twist processing conditions. A processed yarn of 113 decitex 48 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 except that the number of false twists was Z twist-900 (T / m) and the false twist coefficient was 7949. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative Example 10>
As the cation-undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination of the same as in Example 1 and 56 decitex 12 filaments (elongation 116.9%) was used, and under simultaneous false twisting conditions. The number of false twists is Z twist-3624 (T / m), and the false twist coefficient under the simultaneous false twist processing conditions is 32006. A processed yarn of 113 decitex 48 filaments was obtained under the same processing conditions as in Example 1 except for the above. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

<Comparative Example 11>
As the cationic undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA, a polyester combination is the same as in Example 1 and 84 decitex 24 filaments (elongation 115%) are used, and the cationic dyed polyester is highly oriented undrawn. A 140 decitex 36 filament yarn (elongation 130%) was used as the yarn YB, and 177 decitex 60 filaments were obtained under the processing conditions as shown in Table 2. Then, using this composite heathered yarn, a plain woven fabric having a structure as shown in Table 2 was obtained and subjected to sensory evaluation.

Since the woven and knitted fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 9 contain the composite heathered yarn of the present invention as a constituent fiber, they have a natural heather tone with a deep color and are rich in fluffiness (repulsion) and a feeling of falling. It was able to express drape. In particular, in Examples 2 and 6, since the content of the cationic dyeable yarn was in a particularly preferable range, the K / S value and the L * value were in a more preferable range, and the deep color tone was further excellent. Met.

On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, since the single fiber fineness of the cationic undyed yarn was too fine, the drape property was obtained, but the natural heather tone was poor, and the fluffy feeling was also slightly poor. Further, in Comparative Example 2, since the single fiber fineness of the cationic undyed yarn was too thick, it had drapeability but lacked a natural heather tone and a fluffy feeling.

In Comparative Example 3, since the single fiber fineness of the cationic dyeable yarn was too fine, there was a drape property and a fluffy feeling, but the natural heather tone was poor. Further, in Comparative Example 4, since the single fiber fineness of the cationic dyeable yarn was too thick, it had drapeability but lacked a fluffy feeling and a natural heather tone.

In Comparative Example 5, since the content of the cationic dyed yarn was too low, there was a fluffy feeling, but the drape property with a rich drop feeling and the natural heather tone were poor. Further, in Comparative Example 6, since the content of the cationic dyeable yarn was too high, the fluffy feeling and the natural heather tone were poor, and the drape property was also slightly poor.

In Comparative Example 7, since the number of entangled yarns of the composite heathered yarn was too large, there was a feeling of fluffiness, but the natural heather tone was poor, and the drape property with a rich feeling of falling was also slightly poor. Further, in Comparative Example 8, although there was drapeability, the number of entangled yarns of the composite heathered yarn was too small, so that the feeling of fluffiness and the natural heather tone were poor.

In Comparative Example 9, since the false twist coefficient was small, the crimp ratio of the composite heathered yarn was small, and although there was drape, the feeling of fluffiness was poor, and the natural heather tone was also slightly poor. Further, in Comparative Example 10, since the false twist coefficient under the simultaneous false twisting processing condition was large, the crimping rate of the composite heathered yarn was high, and although there was a fluffy feeling, the drape property and the natural feeling of falling were rich. It became a poor heather.

In Comparative Example 11, the crimping rate of the cationic undyed yarn was excessively high, and the crimping rate of the composite heathered yarn was excessively high. , The heather tone became too precise, and the natural heather tone became poor.

YA Cationic undyed highly oriented undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YB Cationic dyeable polyester Highly oriented undrawn yarn 1 1st supply roller 2 Heat treatment heater 3 1st take-up roller 4 2nd supply roller 5 False twist heater 6 False twist pin device 7 2nd take-up roller 8 Fluid nozzle 9 3rd take-up roller 10 Take-up roller 11 Package

Claims (1)

Cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn with a single fiber fineness of 1 to 10 dtex and a crimp rate of 0 to 5%, and cationic undyed polyester with a single fiber fineness of 1 to 7 dtex and a crimp rate of 15 to 55%. It is a composite heat-processed yarn containing a conjugated yarn, and is a composite yarn.
The content of the cationic dyeable polyester filament yarn is 65 to 90%, and the content is 65 to 90%.
The number of entangled yarns of the composite heathered yarn is 80 to 170 / m.
A method for producing a composite heathered yarn having a crimp ratio of the composite heathered yarn of 5 to 19.9%, which comprises the following steps (a) to (c). Manufacturing method of processed yarn.
(A) Cationic undyed high-orientation undrawn polyester conjugate yarn YA having a single fiber fineness of 1.5 to 10 dtex is subjected to a thermal drawing treatment at a draw ratio of 1.5 to 1.7 times and a heat treatment temperature of 140 to 160 ° C. Step of obtaining drawn yarn (b) The drawn yarn and the cationic dye dyeable polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn YB having a single yarn fineness of 1 to 10 dtex are subjected to the following conditions (i) to (iv). Step of obtaining false twisted yarn by performing simultaneous false twisting (i) 0.04 ≦ T1 ≦ 0.15
(Ii) 16000 ≤ TW ≤ 26000
(Iii) -1 % ≤ OF ≤ 1%
(Iv) 140 ° C ≤ HT ≤ 160 ° C
However, T1: torsional tension (cN / dtex), TW: false twist coefficient, OF: overfeed rate at false twist, HT: false twist temperature (° C.).
(C) Step of mixing and entwining the false twisted yarn

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