JP3501012B2 - Composite yarn and woven / knitted fabric comprising the composite yarn - Google Patents

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a composite yarn having a soft swelling feeling without tension, waist and core, and a woven or knitted fabric made of the composite yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, polyester fiber has been used as a mainstream of synthetic fiber because it has many excellent properties, and in recent years, particularly in the field of clothing, it has been modified and improved to have high sensitivity. A texture material has been developed and is popular under the so-called "new synthetic fiber".

This "new synthetic fiber" is different from the conventional product in the production of polyester fiber by enhancing the elemental technology of the manufacturing technology of the raw yarn and linking it with the elemental technology of the higher-order processing stage for manufacturing the woven or knitted fabric. It has been accepted by the market because it has a completely new element. This high-quality "new synthetic fiber" has a problem in terms of cost and stability of quality because it is a complicated combination of sophistication of raw yarn and high-order processing. Especially, in terms of cost, a new effect is obtained. The method of adding value is carried out by performing a composite false twisting process or a composite fiber mixing process by using a plurality of raw yarns for giving.

The main purpose of using a yarn as a form of a composite yarn is to obtain a composite effect of soft touch while having a feeling of swelling and tension on a woven or knitted fabric, which is impossible with a single yarn. Attempts have been made to combine it with various types of yarn. In particular, synthetic fibers have long been pursued in terms of characteristics with natural fibers, but since the development of "New Synthetic Fiber", a cycle has been completed, in which recycled fiber-based chemical fibers, especially rayon and acetate There is a movement to pursue texture.

Further, since the rayon filament yarn and the acetate filament yarn which have been conventionally produced have a different feeling of textiles from synthetic fibers, they are developed in a unique field, apart from "new synthetic fiber". Due to the problem of easy care such as high shrinkage upon washing, problem of abrasion strength, and easy wrinkling, it has come to be compounded with polyester filament yarn. In particular, “Synthetic fiber” has been actively performed since it was put on the market, but the soft feeling has been improved by combining it with the different shrinkage mixed fiber type “Synthetic fiber”, but it is still the core. However, we are not able to meet the demands for stretchability.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention is directed to a conjugate multifilament yarn (A) made of polyester.
And a recycled fiber filament yarn (B) such as rayon or acetate, which is a conjugate multifilament yarn (A) by a relaxing heat treatment.
Is located relatively in the inner layer of the composite yarn and develops self-crimping,
Recycled fiber filament yarn (B) is located in the relatively outer layer of the composite yarn, and it has a soft swelling feeling without tension, waist, and core, and a lightweight feeling. An object of the present invention is to provide a composite yarn having properties and a woven / knitted fabric made of the composite yarn.

[0007]

The constitution of the present invention which achieves the above object is as follows. That is, the composite yarn of the present invention is a composite multifilament yarn (A) composed of at least two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties, and is combined with the recycled fiber filament yarn (B) without false twisting. And twist coefficient α = 3,0
That you have been twisted to a composite yarn, characterized in 00～25,000, it includes the following preferred embodiments. (1) The expressed crimp number CB and shrinkage stress TS of the conjugated multifilament yarn (A) satisfy the following (a) and (b).

(A) 8 ≤ CB (peaks / cm) ≤ 30 (b) TS (cN) ≥ 0.265 cN / dtex (2) The crimping number CA of the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) is 2.5. -10 peaks / cm, apparent shrinkage S
C is 40% or more, and boiling water fiber shrinkage ratio SW is 2% to 8
%. ( 3 ) When the composite yarn is treated with boiling water at 98 ° C., 3-1
Have 0% shrinkage. ( 4 ) The composite yarn described above is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment and has a hollow structure in the center. ( 5 ) A woven or knitted fabric composed of the composite yarn described above.

[0009]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In the present invention, the conjugated multifilament yarn (A) composed of at least two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkability is, for example, side-by-side type or core-sheath type. Polyester conjugate multifilament yarn or the like can be applied. This conjugate multifilament yarn (A) is intended for a polyester multifilament yarn whose main repeating unit is ethylene terephthalate, and is composed of at least two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage properties.

As the combination of the polymers having different heat shrinkability, polyester homopolymers having different degrees of polymerization, copolymers of a third component other than the terephthalic acid component and / or the ethylene glycol component, It may be a blend of other polymers or a combination thereof.

Specific examples of polyester polymers having different heat-shrinking properties which are preferably used in the present invention include polyethylene terephthalate alone and copolyesters containing 80 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate units.

As the copolymerization component of the copolyester, components such as isophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, bisphenols, neopentyl glycol or 1,6-cyclohexanediol can be used. Further, other improving materials such as a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dyeability improving component and a pigment can be mixed in the polyester.

Next, the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) used in the present invention will be described.

The conjugate multifilament yarn (A) of the present invention has a coiled three-dimensional crimping expression power due to the difference in heat shrinkage characteristics, and is subjected to boiling water treatment to obtain
Targets are those that develop and manifest crimps by this latent crimping expression ability.

A woven or knitted fabric is formed by interlacing the yarns constituting the woven or knitted fabric, but such a woven or knitted fabric generally has a weak binding force portion and a strong binding force portion. That is, in the woven fabric, the binding force is strong at the intersection of the warp and the weft, and conversely, the binding force is small at the floating portion which is not crossed. In the knitted fabric, the binding point of the loop intersection is also strong.

In order to impart soft swelling and stretchability to the woven or knitted fabric depending on the characteristics of the raw yarns used for the woven or knitted fabric, it is not the above-mentioned crossing points or crossing points of the woven or knitted fabric, and the non-binding portion of the woven or knitted fabric. It is made possible by the presence of crimp in the yarn. In the conventional fabrication using a raw yarn, when a straight raw yarn having shrinkage is used as a component that imparts a bulge to the composite yarn, the woven and knitted fabric will have a bulge feeling due to heat shrinkage, and the shrinkable fiber will have a soft texture. In the woven or knitted fabric, the structure is such that the woven crimp and the loop structure are contracted straight and run linearly, which serves as a core, which results in the swelling feeling being hindered.

On the other hand, recycled fiber filament yarns such as rayon and acetate fibers are different from synthetic fibers.
It is difficult to greatly change the physical properties of the fiber by improving the raw material and the manufacturing method. In particular, even if an attempt is made to give a difference in shrinkage to the recycled fiber filament yarn as a means for imparting a feeling of swelling, the recycled fiber filament yarn has no means for changing the shrinkage ratio.

Therefore, a woven or knitted fabric using recycled fiber filament yarn has a soft swelling feeling without a core, a tight elasticity,
The present invention has been achieved as a result of diligent studies in order to provide characteristics such as a lightweight feeling and appropriate stretchability.

That is, the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) was composited with the recycled fiber filament yarn (B) without false twisting, and the resulting composite yarn was woven or knitted to form a woven or knitted product, and subsequently. A crimp is developed by a wet heat relaxation treatment and then dyed to obtain a predetermined woven or knitted fabric having a coreless bulge, tension and waist. In order to give the woven and knitted fabric such characteristics as soft swelling without core, tightness, light weight, and appropriate stretchability, the latent tension of the conjugate multifilament yarn that constitutes the center of the composite yarn It is important to increase contraction power. Then, in order to enhance the latent crimp development power of the conjugate multifilament yarn, it is necessary to enhance the crimp development ability of the conjugate multifilament yarn itself. Therefore, in the present invention, the conventional conjugate multifilament is used. A yarn having a greater crimp development than the yarn is used. In the present invention, with respect to the conjugate multifilament yarn (A), the expression crimp number CB, which is obtained after boiling water treatment (relax heat treatment), is preferably 8 to 30 peaks / cm.
It is particularly preferable to use a conjugate multifilament yarn having a latent expression ability of 13 to 27 peaks / cm.

This crimping ability enables crimping even under the restraining force of the woven fabric. In order to develop the crimping under the restraining force, the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) The contraction stress TS (cN) is
It is preferably 0.265 cN / dtex or more, more preferably 0.291 cN / dtex or more (cN: centinewton).

If the expressed crimp number and shrinkage stress of the above-mentioned conjugated multifilament yarn (A) are too small, the conjugate may be obtained by twisting the composite yarn into a woven fabric and then subjecting it to a relaxation heat treatment in the dyeing step. Coil-like crimp due to shrinkage of multifilament yarn is less likely to appear,
As a result, it becomes difficult to impart a predetermined bulge and stretchability to the woven fabric.

The conjugate multifilament yarn (A) of the present invention has a crimp number CA of 2.5 to 10 threads /
It is preferably cm. In the present invention, as the raw yarn having such characteristics, two component polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage characteristics are laminated in parallel to form a composite, or a core component is formed to be eccentrically arranged in a sheath component. The conjugated multifilament yarn thus prepared is preferably used. However, even when the conjugate multifilament yarn is used, a polymer having a normal limiting viscosity of about 0.65, which is the normal intrinsic viscosity of the polyester multifilament yarn, is spun, and the problem due to fluff that becomes a problem in terms of passability in the knitting / weaving process occurs. In order to reduce the amount, the contraction stress of the original yarn also becomes small when the drawing condition is loosened so that the breaking elongation of the yarn is 35% or more.

In the present invention, as described above, if the shrinkage stress of the conjugate multifilament yarn is too small, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient spiral three-dimensional crimp, so that the draw ratio is changed according to the spinning speed under the drawing conditions. Then, the cutting elongation is 35% or less and the shrinkage stress is 0.265 cN / dt.
ex or more, preferably 30% or less, 0.291 cN / d
tex or more, more preferably 27% or less, 0.309
By carrying out a high draw ratio of not less than cN / dtex, a predetermined conjugate multifilament yarn intended in the present invention can be obtained.

As the at least two-component polyester polymer having different heat shrinkability, a combination in which one is a low-viscosity polyester component and the other is a high-viscosity polyester component is preferably used. In the case of the homopolyester component, the intrinsic viscosity of the low viscosity polyester component is 0.35.
˜0.55, and the intrinsic viscosity of the high viscosity polyester component is preferably 0.65 to 0.85. When the intrinsic viscosity of the low viscosity polyester component is less than 0.35, the melt viscosity becomes low,
Thread-making becomes difficult. Further, when the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.55, the crimping power of the conjugate multifilament becomes poor, and the semi-visualization and latent crimping power decrease. Further, if the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.85, the melt viscosity becomes high and spinning and drawing become difficult. Further, if the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.65, the crimping power becomes poor. The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the low viscosity polyester component and the high viscosity polyester component is 0.20
A range of 0.40 is preferred. However, when a copolyester component is used for one of the components, it is possible to make the intrinsic viscosity difference between the two components closer.

The intrinsic viscosity [η] is an orthochlorophenol solution obtained at a temperature of 25 ° C.

In addition, the composite ratio of the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component of the conjugate multifilament yarn is 3 by weight in terms of latent crimp development power.
5-50: 65-50 are preferable, and 40-50: 60-
40 is more preferred.

The conjugated multifilament yarn of the present invention also preferably has an apparent shrinkage SC of 40% ≤SC. The apparent shrinkage ratio is a characteristic index showing the three-dimensional crimp development ability of the conjugated multifilament yarn when heat-treated. If the apparent shrinkage is less than 40%, the latent crimping ability is inferior, and it does not sufficiently crimp in a three-dimensional coil, and particularly contributes to the dominant force of restructuring development by the shrinkage behavior with other fibers in the composite yarn. It's hard to do.

Further, the conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention has a boiling water fiber shrinkage ratio SW of 2% ≤SW≤.
It is preferably 8%. Side-by-side or eccentric type conjugate multifilament yarns composed of two or more polymers with different intrinsic viscosities undergo a heat treatment, resulting in a three-dimensional coiled crimp due to the difference in shrinkage of each polymer. However, it cannot be said that the shrinkage ratio is large, and there is an optimum shrinkage ratio for obtaining a large coil diameter. Conjugate yarns having a large crimp coil diameter are important in the properties of intrinsic viscosity difference and fine contraction, and therefore 2% or more is preferable. On the other hand, when it exceeds 8%, the diameter of the coil is small even if the fiber has a different shrinkage and the three-dimensional crimping occurs, and it is difficult to obtain the desired bulge and stretchability, which is not preferable.

(1) Crimp number of original yarn CA (peaks / cm): 70 mm or more of multifilament (easy to measure)
The cut monofilaments are placed on a glass plate, and the peaks and valleys for 1 cm are read, and the total is halved. It is calculated for 10 single fibers and calculated as the average value.

(2) Potentially expressed crimp number CB (peaks / cm):
The conjugated multifilament yarn is treated with boiling water for 15 minutes. After taking out, it is immersed in cold water for 1 minute.
70mm of conjugate multifilament after air-drying
Cut the above into a length (easy to measure), put the cut filament single yarn on a glass plate, project it on a screen with a projector, read the peaks and valleys for 1 cm, and halve the total.
To do. Calculate the value for 10 filament filaments,
Calculate as the average value.

(3) Shrinkage stress TS (cN): Changes in shrinkage stress when the conjugate multifilament yarn is heated from room temperature to around 250 ° C. are detected by a U gauge (strain gauge) and recorded in an X, Y recorder. . Test length: 100m
m), heating rate 2.5 ° C./sec, initial load: (0.08
The temperature is raised at 82 cN / dtex × 2). The maximum stress (g) and peak temperature (° C) are read from the chart (cN is centinewton).

(4) Apparent shrinkage ratio SC (%): 1.2 times per cycle
A 10-turn cassette is sampled with a 5 m measuring instrument. (0.00
The original length: a is measured by applying a load of 0882 cN / dtex × 10 × 2). Treat with boiling water for 15 minutes, then in cold water 1
Soak for a minute and air dry, then load: (0.000882c
N / dtex × 10 × 2) is applied to measure the original length: b. The apparent shrinkage is calculated by the following formula. Apparent shrinkage rate SC (%) = (ab) / a × 100 (5) Boiling water shrinkage rate S
W (%): Collect the same sample as the apparent shrinkage measurement. The original length: a is measured by applying a load (0.176 cN / dtex × 10 × 2). After treating with boiling water for 15 minutes and allowing to cool, load: (0.176 cN / dtex × 10 × 2)
And measure the original length: b. The boiling water fiber shrinkage is calculated by the following formula. Boiling water shrinkage rate SW (%) = (ab) / a × 100 Next, as the recycled fiber filament yarn (B) used as the sheath side raw yarn in the present invention, domestic and overseas manufacturers produce and sell it. It is possible to target general varieties that are doing. For example, in the case of rayon, regenerated cellulose fibers by the viscose method, regenerated cellulose fibers by the copper ammonia method, and regenerated cellulose fibers by a new method using an organic solvent developed in recent years are targeted. It is more preferable that the rayon multifilament yarn is obtained by rewinding the cake obtained as a product by conventional spinning, or a kneaded yarn or a high-speed kneaded yarn obtained by recent technological progress, which is excellent in quality. Further, as the acetate fiber, acetyl cellulose obtained by acetylating natural pulp is used, which is usually called diacetate or triacetate depending on the degree of acetylation. The fineness of both rayon and acetate can be selected, and the filament yarn can be selected according to the design requirements for the fabric weight and the texture required for the woven or knitted fabric.

Regarding the monofilament fineness of the conjugated multi-filament yarn (A) which constitutes the composite yarn, the thicker the yarn, the greater the crimping force in the woven or knitted fabric, and the effect of imparting a feeling of swelling, tension, waist and stretchability. And specifically, 2 to 15 dtex is preferable.

Further, the thickness (single fiber fineness) of the single filaments constituting the recycled fiber filament yarn (B) is also important as an element to exert the effect as a woven fabric. For the single fiber fineness, the fineness is selected when a soft texture is required, and the thickness is selected when a relatively dry touch is required. Generally, 1 to 5.5 dtex is suitable.

The composition ratio of the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) constituting the core side and the recycled fiber filament yarn (B) constituting the sheath side is 30 to 50 around 50:50.
The range of 70:70 to 30 is suitable, but 20 to 40:80 to 60 is preferable for acetate filament yarn. Since the acetate fiber is generally saponified with alkali, it cannot be treated in a region having a high alkali concentration. On the other hand, polyester fibers have the property that the texture and drapability cannot be obtained without alkali treatment.
Therefore, in a woven or knitted fabric in which polyester fibers and acetate fibers are mixed, it is difficult to reduce the weight by alkali treatment.
The proportion of polyester fibers is reduced and the proportion of acetate fibers is increased.

Further, in the composite state of the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) and the recycled fiber filament yarn (B), it is sufficient that the composite multifilament yarn (A) and the recycled fiber filament yarn (B) are aligned so that there is no problem in the subsequent process passability. Alternatively, the entanglement treatment may be performed by the compressed air treatment. Regarding the degree of entanglement in this case, recycled fiber filament yarns such as rayon and acetate fibers have low shear strength and are prone to fluff. When the composite yarn is subjected to additional twisting to woven or knit a woven or knitted product, the lower the degree of entanglement, the harder it becomes to have a structure in which the core raw yarn multifilaments are dispersed in the occurrence of crimping,
In addition, crimping is likely to occur in the form in which the sheath-side raw yarn is wrapped around, which is preferable. As described above, the degree of entanglement when the additional twist is used in the woven or knitted fabric is preferably 80 or less, and 5
0 or less is more preferable.

In the present invention, after the composite yarn is subjected to post-twisting and is made into a woven or knitted product, it is subjected to a relaxation treatment by moist heat in the dyeing step, and this is dyed to form a hollow structure in the center of the composite yarn. Can be held. This is due to the effect of the coiled three-dimensional crimped conjugate multifilament yarn constituting the core side, and the feature of this composite yarn having a hollow structure is the conjugate multifilament yarn on the core side. Has a coiled crimp, so that a structure in which recycled fiber filament yarn is wound around the sheath side with a difference in yarn length is adopted. It is possible to have appropriate stretchability. The number of additional twists for obtaining the composite yarn having this hollow structure can be within the range where the twist coefficient α is 3,000 to 25,000, and 8,000 to 16 for obtaining a larger hollow structure. 1,000
Is more preferable. The twist coefficient α is calculated by the following equation.

Α = T × D ^1/2 where α: twisting factor T: twist number (t / m) D: fineness of crimped composite yarn (D is dtex) When twisting factor α is larger than 25,000, As the fiber binding force becomes stronger, the crimp expression of the conjugate multifilament yarn becomes less and the bulge becomes insufficient.

Further, the shrinkage property of the composite yarn is preferably 3 to 10% by boiling water treatment at 98 ° C. When it is less than 3%, the conjugate multifilament yarn cannot sufficiently exhibit the three-dimensional coiled crimp in the composite structure, and when it is more than 10%, the three-dimensional coiled crimp of the conjugate multifilament yarn is expressed. The diameter is small and it is difficult to obtain the desired effect. When the size is further increased, the stretch cannot be exhibited due to the stretch structure of the fiber due to the shrinkage of the composite partner other than the shrinkage of the conjugate multifilament.

In addition, before applying the composite twisted yarn, the conjugate multifilament yarn is preliminarily prepared with 100 to 1,000 T.
By additionally twisting / M, it is possible to reduce the number of additional twists of the composite yarn and obtain a soft woven or knitted fabric.

FIG. 1 shows a conjugate multifilament yarn as a triacetate multifilament yarn 110d.
It is a drawing-substituting photograph showing an example of the hollow structure of the composite yarn of the present invention which is twisted in parallel with tex-26f and subjected to rack element treatment by boiling water shrinkage.

Next, as the method for producing the composite yarn of the present invention, when the conjugate multifilament yarn is a drawn yarn, the conjugate multifilament yarn and the recycled fiber filament yarn are aligned by a blending machine or a drawing machine. Also, the mixed yarn processing, and the usual weaving preparation step can be performed by a general twisting step. To align and twist both yarns, first align and wind both yarns with a pan winder, and then use a double twister to twist the yarns. Either method can be used.

The crimped composite yarn according to the present invention can be used as a warp and / or a weft of a woven fabric. The weaving and knitting step is a generally used warp preparation step, and it is preferable to perform sizing in a region where the number of twists is a sweet twist, and other process conditions may be standard. In the case of a composite yarn using rayon filament yarn, a weaving machine other than a so-called water jet loom is recommended as the type of loom, and there is no particular limitation in the case of a composite yarn using acetate filament yarn.

The texture and density of the woven or knitted material are selected according to the desired texture and are not limited, but in order to fully exert the crimping effect in the dyeing process, the texture and the density are less than normal. Better to set. In particular,
In the case of rayon type, this tendency is strong because it easily swells by wet heat. In addition, although it depends on the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, it is preferable to set the density of the greige so that when sewn and worn as the dyed woven or knitted fabric, a density not exceeding the problem of misalignment does not occur.

The woven and knitted raw fabric can be processed by the dyeing process and conditions used for "new synthetic fiber". For example,
In a standard dyeing process, scouring, relaxing (for example, 60 to 100 ° C in a spreader like a soft machine), preset (dry heat 170 to 200 ° C), dyeing (jet dyeing machine 13
0 to 130 ° C.), shrink surfers (overfeed relaxing), and finishing sets (150 to 180 ° C.). However, in the present invention, the alkali reduction treatment which is usually applied to polyester fibers is not preferable. In particular, in the case of acetate fibers, the processing of alkali side is not preferable for the texture. Also, the dyeing temperature is preferably not higher than 130 ° C. in the case of the acetate fiber composite yarn, and if possible, it is desirable to select and carry out the dye having the same color as the polyester under the temperature condition up to 125 ° C.

As the processing conditions, it is most important that the crimped composite yarn is sufficiently crimped, and the relaxation heat treatment conditions should be carefully set. In that sense, in the relaxation treatment, it is preferable to perform sufficient post-processing such as dyeing after the crimp is sufficiently developed. The relaxation heat treatment temperature at this time is preferably 100 ° C to 120 ° C.

In the present invention, these processing conditions depend on the composition of the composite yarn, the structure of the woven and knitted fabric, and the density.
It is decided by testing by changing the relaxation heat treatment condition and the weight loss rate after presetting. In the dyeing process, by using a jet dyeing machine, it is possible to enhance the brushing effect and enhance the bulkiness of the crimped composite yarn.

This woven or knitted fabric is not only used in heavy clothing such as suits, jackets, bottoms and coats, but also in light clothing such as shirts and blouses. It is used in many fields with high quality.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically by way of examples.

[0050]

Example 1 A low-viscosity component consisting of 100% polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.45 and a high-viscosity component consisting of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 were combined at a weight ratio of 50:50. The conjugate multifilament unstretched yarn stuck to the side-by-side type was spun and stretched to obtain a stretched yarn of 50 dtex-12F. The raw yarn characteristic of the crimped yarn is a fineness of 51.
6 dtex, crimping number 3.2 crests / cm, expression crimping number 1
5.2 peaks / cm, shrinkage stress 0.441 cN / dtex
(Peak temperature 155 ° C.), boiling water fiber shrinkage rate was 4.6%, and apparent shrinkage rate was 65.2%. 31% by weight of the polyester crimped yarn thus obtained and 110 dte of triacetate yarn manufactured by Hoechst of Germany as a composite mating yarn
Using 69% by weight of x and 26 filaments, a 160dtex crimped composite yarn was used as a post-twisted yarn having a twist coefficient α of 15,200 in a draw-aligning plying machine in a weaving preparation step. The boiling yield of the composite plied yarn was 5.2%. 2/2 using this additional twist yarn
A fabric weaving machine with a twill structure was prototyped. The boiling yield of the crimped composite yarn was 3.7%.

Using a conventional dyeing equipment, the trial-made greige machine is first covered with triacetate so that wrinkles do not occur in the spread state.
Refining relaxation was performed at 0 ° C., followed by 120 ° C. jet relaxation, dry heat 190 ° C. preset, 130 ° C. jet dyeing, and 160 ° C. finish setting to obtain a dough. In addition, the obtained fabric has a soft, coreless bulge that cannot be obtained with triacetate, has extremely firm and plump repulsion, and has an excellent dry feel and drape unique to triacetate. The fabric had a stretchability of 10% in the warp direction and 15% in the weft direction. In addition, when the cross section of the woven fabric was confirmed by a SEM microscopic structure photograph (FIG. 1), a void having a hollow structure due to the occurrence of a coiled crimp of the crimped yarn was confirmed in the central portion of the composite structured yarn.

(Embodiment 2) 50 dtex as in Embodiment 1
28% by weight of conjugate multifilament yarn of -12F and recycled fiber based viscose rayon RB125 denier (137 dtex) -25 manufactured by Kuraray Co., Ltd.
Using 72% by weight of the filament yarn, both of the above-mentioned raw yarns were aligned by a PAN winder which is usually used as a filament yarn dividing machine in the weaving preparation step, and wound into a PAN. The composite yarn wound around the pan was further twisted with a double twister for filament. The twisting conditions are 1,200 T / M (twisting coefficient α = 15,800) in each of the twisting numbers S and Z, and as the condition of the double twister, the number of rotations of the spindle is set to be higher than usual so that the fluff of the rayon filament yarn is not generated. 8,000 lower eyes
It was set at rpm and the twisting tension was controlled to a low value. The boiling yield of this composite plied yarn was 6.3%. The twisted yarn pirn was left in the rear aging chamber for 48 hours to stabilize the twisting torque for additional twisting, and then warped in the warp preparation step, warped, and subjected to steps such as beaming and set on a rapier loom. The woven fabric is made by weaving the weft yarns, which are the same as the warp yarns, such as the warp yarns, the rayon filament yarns 137dtex, and the wool 1/60 count yarns, which are twisted in S and Z800T / M, one by one alternately. did. The raw material had a width of 115 cm and a warp × weft density of 101 × 87 / 2.54 cm.

Next, this raw fabric was dyed. Since wool was mixed, no alkali was used for processing, and the temperature was taken into consideration when processing. In addition, the previous process was spread
The processing was carried out at 0 to 100 ° C., and processed so as to be sufficiently relaxed in the length direction. Preset at 170 ° C,
The fabric was dyed at 115 ° C with a jet dyeing machine and finished at 160 ° C. The amount of finish was 92 cm in width, warp × weft density 126 × 101 / 2.54 cm. The obtained woven fabric has a soft swelling feeling without a core, and further has a stretch property in the length direction, which has been impossible to obtain with conventional rayon filament additional twist yarns, and has drape property and repulsion property. A woven fabric was obtained that was excellent and very tailored to the sewn product. As a result of investigating the factors that contribute to the stretchability, bulge, and rebound of this woven fabric, it was confirmed that the structure of the warp had a form similar to that of the composite yarn shown in FIG.

[0054]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, side-by-side or core / sheath composite spinning of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkability
After the polyester multifilament yarn obtained by stretching is combined with a recycled fiber filament yarn, a woven or knitted fabric is obtained,
By relaxing again in the dyeing process, the woven and knitted fabric has a soft bulge with no core, and is rich in elasticity and resilience,
A new woven and knitted fabric with surface changes, dry touch and stretchability can be obtained.

The woven and knitted fabric has a light weight feeling and a comfortable stretchable feeling and tailoring not only in the field of heavy clothing such as suits, jackets, bottoms and coats but also in the field of light clothing applications such as shirts and blouses. Has a sense of quality.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 shows a conjugate multifilament yarn as a triacetate multifilament yarn 110dtex-2.
It is a drawing substitute photograph which shows an example of the hollow structure of the composite yarn which carried out the parallel twist with 6f, and carried out the rack element processing by boiling water contraction.

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Claims (5)

(57) [Claims] 1. A heat-shrinkable characteristics at least two different Ri Do from polyester polymer, condensation number Ken expression CB and
The shrinkage stress TS is a composite filament yarn (B) that does not undergo false twisting of a conjugate filament yarn (A) satisfying the following (a) and (b) ,
A composite yarn characterized by being twisted with a twist coefficient α = 3,000 to 25,000. (A) 8 ≤ CB (peaks / cm) ≤ 30 (b) TS (cN) ≥ 0.265 cN / dtex 2. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the conjugate multifilament yarn (A) satisfies the following (C) to (E). (C) Crimp number CA: 2.5 ≦ CA (mountain / cm) ≦ 10
Peak / cm (d) Apparent shrinkage rate SC: 40% ≤ SC (e) Boiling water fiber shrinkage rate SW: 2% ≤ SW ≤ 8% Wherein when processed with the composite yarn 98 ° C. boiling water, the composite yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it has a 3-10% shrinkage. 4. A composite yarn, wherein the composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 3 is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment and has a hollow structure in a central portion. 5. A woven or knitted fabric composed of the composite yarn according to any one of claims 1 to 4 .