JP2001303378A - Conjugate yarn - Google Patents

Conjugate yarn

Info

Publication number
JP2001303378A
JP2001303378A JP2001034869A JP2001034869A JP2001303378A JP 2001303378 A JP2001303378 A JP 2001303378A JP 2001034869 A JP2001034869 A JP 2001034869A JP 2001034869 A JP2001034869 A JP 2001034869A JP 2001303378 A JP2001303378 A JP 2001303378A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
false
elongation
core
composite
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP2001034869A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Yasunori Yuki
康式 結城
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Asahi Kasei Corp
Original Assignee
Asahi Kasei Corp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority to JP2000-36345 priority Critical
Priority to JP2000036345 priority
Application filed by Asahi Kasei Corp filed Critical Asahi Kasei Corp
Priority to JP2001034869A priority patent/JP2001303378A/en
Publication of JP2001303378A publication Critical patent/JP2001303378A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a conjugate yarn having high stretchability, stretch recovery and processability and giving a cloth having excellent stretch-back feeling, bulkiness, softness, stretch and stiffness. SOLUTION: The conjugate yarn having a sheath-core structure is obtained by using a core yarn comprising a false-twisted yarn composed of a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and having a stretch elongation of >=100% and a tensile modulus of >=80%.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

【0001】[0001]

【発明の属する技術分野】本発明は、ポリエステル系仮
撚糸を芯糸とした複合糸に関する。より詳細には本発明
は、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維で構成された
仮撚糸を芯糸とし、高い伸長性と伸長回復性を有し、工
程性能が良好で、ストレッチバック感、膨らみ感、ソフ
ト性、張り、腰に優れた布帛を得られる複合糸に関す
る。
The present invention relates to a composite yarn using a polyester false twisted yarn as a core yarn. More specifically, the present invention uses a false-twisted yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as a core yarn, has high extensibility and elongation recovery, has good process performance, stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, and softness. The present invention relates to a composite yarn capable of obtaining a fabric excellent in tension, tension and waist.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】従来、ポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維
やナイロン繊維等の合成繊維フィラメントを芯糸にし、
綿、麻、ウール、絹等の天然繊維を鞘糸とした複合糸
は、天然繊維の持つ優れた風合いと吸放湿性等の機能特
性に加えて、合成繊維フィラメントの持つ強度、寸法安
定性、形態保持性等の機能性を併せ持った糸として、そ
の織編物は幅広い用途に広く用いられている。ところ
が、昨今ではスポーツ衣料用途のみならず一般衣料用途
でもストレッチ性に対する要求が高まっており、該複合
糸のごとく顕在捲縮や潜在捲縮を有していない合成繊維
フィラメントを芯糸にした複合糸では、満足できるスト
レッチ性、特に高い伸長性を得ることは困難であった。
2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, synthetic fiber filaments such as polyethylene terephthalate fiber and nylon fiber have been used as core yarns.
Composite yarns made of natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk are used as sheath yarns.In addition to the excellent texture and functional properties of moisture absorption and release possessed by natural fibers, the strength and dimensional stability of synthetic fiber filaments The woven or knitted fabric is widely used for a wide range of applications as a yarn having functions such as shape retention. However, in recent years, there has been an increasing demand for stretchability not only for sports clothing but also for general clothing, and a composite yarn using a synthetic fiber filament having no apparent crimp or latent crimp as the core yarn as the composite yarn is used. Then, it was difficult to obtain a satisfactory stretch property, particularly a high stretch property.

【0003】特開平9−87940号公報には、伸長回
復性に優れた合成繊維フィラメントとしてポリトリメチ
レンテレフタレート繊維、あるいはポリブチレンテレフ
タレート繊維を芯糸にした複合糸が提案されている。該
複合糸はポリエチレンテレフタレート繊維やナイロン繊
維のフィラメントを芯糸にした複合糸に比べれば多少ス
トレッチバック感は向上するが、伸長性自体は小さい。
複合糸の伸長性は芯糸であるフィラメントの伸長性に依
存するが、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維やポリ
ブチレンテレフタレート繊維は、ポリエチレンテレフタ
レート繊維やナイロン繊維に比べて際立って伸度が大き
いわけではないため、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート
繊維やポリブチレンテレフタレート繊維を原糸のまま用
いた複合糸では、その伸長性は依然不十分である。
[0003] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-87940 proposes a composite yarn using a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber or a polybutylene terephthalate fiber as a core yarn as a synthetic fiber filament having excellent elongation recovery properties. The composite yarn has a slightly improved stretch-back feeling as compared with a composite yarn using a filament of polyethylene terephthalate fiber or nylon fiber as a core yarn, but the extensibility itself is small.
Although the elongation of the composite yarn depends on the elongation of the filament as the core yarn, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and polybutylene terephthalate fiber do not have a significantly higher elongation than polyethylene terephthalate fiber and nylon fiber. On the other hand, composite yarns using polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers or polybutylene terephthalate fibers as raw yarns still have insufficient stretchability.

【0004】また、捲縮を持たないフィラメントの周囲
に短繊維が巻き付いた糸構造では、巻き返し、製織、製
編時等の工程中で該複合糸が伸長されたり、しごかれた
際に芯糸と鞘糸がずれやすいため、複合糸の外観が乱れ
たり、毛羽や切れ糸が発生しやすい等の工程性能上の問
題がある。特開平9−195142号公報には、ポリト
リメチレンテレフタレート糸条を芯糸とし、化学繊維及
び/又は天然繊維を鞘糸とした鞘芯複合糸が提案されて
いる。複合糸の製造方法の一例として仮撚機を用いて鞘
糸をオーバーフィードする方法が開示されているが、仮
撚条件や芯糸の捲縮特性、複合糸の伸縮特性については
何ら具体的な記載はない。また、芯糸の30%伸長時の
回復率や引張応力が高いために該複合糸で構成される織
編物が伸びすぎることはないとの記載があることから、
該複合糸が高い伸長性を有していないことは明らかであ
る。
In a yarn structure in which short fibers are wrapped around a filament having no crimp, a core is formed when the composite yarn is stretched or squeezed during a process such as rewinding, weaving, or knitting. Since the yarn and the sheath yarn are easily displaced, there are problems in the process performance such that the appearance of the composite yarn is disturbed and fluff or cut yarn is easily generated. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-195142 proposes a sheath-core composite yarn using a polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn as a core yarn and a synthetic fiber and / or a natural fiber as a sheath yarn. A method of overfeeding a sheath yarn using a false twisting machine as an example of a method for producing a composite yarn has been disclosed.However, the false twist conditions, the crimping characteristics of the core yarn, and the stretching characteristics of the composite yarn are not specific. There is no description. Further, since there is a description that the woven or knitted fabric composed of the composite yarn is not excessively stretched because the recovery rate and the tensile stress at the time of 30% elongation of the core yarn are high,
It is clear that the composite yarn does not have high extensibility.

【0005】特開2000−328376号公報におい
ても、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートフィラメントと
それよりも高伸度のフィラメントを交絡後、仮撚するこ
とによって、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維が芯
に位置する複合仮撚糸が開示されているが、やはり芯糸
の捲縮特性については何ら具体的な記載がない。また該
複合糸は、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維を単独
で仮撚した糸を芯糸に用いた複合糸に比べて芯糸の捲縮
が甘くならざるを得ないため、本発明の目的とする高い
伸長性は期待できない。更にアウター衣料用の織物では
ストレッチ性と同時に張り、腰が要求されるが、上記し
た従来の複合糸ではこの点についても不十分であり、更
に張り、腰の良好なものが要求されていた。
In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-328376, a composite false twisted yarn in which a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is located at the core is formed by interlacing a polytrimethylene terephthalate filament and a filament having a higher elongation than that, and then false twisting. However, there is no specific description about the crimp characteristics of the core yarn. In addition, since the composite yarn is inevitably crimped as compared with the composite yarn using the yarn obtained by false-twisting the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber alone as the core yarn, the object of the present invention is high. Extensibility cannot be expected. Further, in the case of a woven fabric for an outer garment, stretchability and waist are required at the same time as stretchability. However, the above-mentioned conventional composite yarn is insufficient in this respect as well, and a fabric having good tension and waist has been demanded.

【0006】[0006]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】本発明の目的は、かか
る問題を解決し、高い伸長性と伸長回復性を有し、工程
性能が良好で、ストレッチバック感、膨らみ感、ソフト
性、張り、腰に優れた布帛を得られる複合糸を提供する
ことにある。
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve such problems, to have high elongation and elongation recovery properties, to have good process performance, to provide stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tension, An object of the present invention is to provide a composite yarn from which a fabric having excellent waist can be obtained.

【0007】[0007]

【課題を解決するための手段】本発明者は、前記目的を
達成できる複合糸について鋭意研究を重ねた結果、ポリ
トリメチレンテレフタレート繊維で構成された特定の捲
縮特性を有した仮撚糸を芯糸に用い、他の繊維を鞘糸と
する複合糸とすることによって、従来達成できなかった
高い伸長性と伸長回復性を有し、工程性能が良好な複合
糸、及びストレッチバック感、膨らみ感、ソフト性、張
り、腰に優れた織編物を得られることを見出し、本発明
を完成するに至った。即ち本発明は、鞘芯構造の複合糸
であって、芯糸にポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維
で構成された伸縮伸長率100%以上、伸縮弾性率80
%以上の仮撚糸を用いることを特徴とする複合糸であ
る。
Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have conducted intensive studies on composite yarns that can achieve the above object, and as a result, have found that a false twisted yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and having a specific crimping property is used as a core. By using a composite yarn having another fiber as a sheath yarn, the composite yarn has high elongation and elongation recovery that could not be achieved conventionally, and has good process performance, and stretch back feeling and swelling feeling. The present inventors have found that a woven or knitted fabric having excellent softness, tension, and waist can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed. That is, the present invention relates to a composite yarn having a sheath-core structure, wherein the core yarn is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and has an elasticity of 100% or more, and an elasticity of 80 or more.
% Of false twisted yarn.

【0008】[0008]

【発明の実施の形態】以下、本発明を更に詳細に説明す
る。本発明で用いるポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊
維とは、トリメチレンテレフタレート単位を主たる繰り
返し単位とするポリエステル繊維をいい、トリメチレン
テレフタレート単位を約50モル%以上、好ましくは7
0モル%以上、更には80モル%以上、さらに好ましく
は90モル%以上のものをいう。従って、第三成分とし
て他の酸成分及び/又はグリコール成分の合計量が約5
0モル%以下、好ましくは30モル%以下、更には20
モル%以下、さらに好ましくは10モル%以下の範囲で
含有されたポリトリメチレンテレフタレートを包含す
る。
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail. The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in the present invention is a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit.
0 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more, more preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is about 5%.
0 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less.
It includes polytrimethylene terephthalate contained in an amount of not more than mol%, more preferably not more than 10 mol%.

【0009】ポリトリメチレンテレフタレートは、テレ
フタル酸又は例えばテレフタル酸ジメチルなどのその機
能的誘導体と、トリメチレングリコール又はその機能的
誘導体とを、触媒の存在下で、適当な反応条件下に重縮
合せしめることにより製造される。この製造過程におい
て、適当な一種又は二種以上の第三成分を添加して共重
合ポリエステルとしてもよいし、又、ポリエチレンテレ
フタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート等のポリトリ
メチレンテレフタレート以外のポリエステル、ナイロン
とポリトリメチレンテレフタレートとを別個に製造した
後、ブレンドしたり、複合紡糸(鞘芯、サイドバイサイ
ド等)してもよい。
Polytrimethylene terephthalate allows the polycondensation of terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof, such as dimethyl terephthalate, with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under suitable reaction conditions. It is manufactured by In this production process, an appropriate one or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or a polyester other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate, or a nylon and a polytriester. After separately producing methylene terephthalate, blending or composite spinning (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.) may be performed.

【0010】複合紡糸に関しては、特公昭43−191
08号公報、特開平11−189923号公報、特開2
000−239927号公報、特開2000−2569
18号公報等に例示されるような、第一成分がポリトリ
メチレンテレフタレートであり、第二成分がポリトリメ
チレンテレフタレート、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、
ポリブチレンテレフタレート等のポリエステル、ナイロ
ンを並列的あるいは偏芯的に配置したサイドバイサイド
型又は偏芯シースコア型に複合紡糸したものがあり、特
にポリトリメチレンテレフタレートと共重合ポリトリメ
チレンテレフタレートの組み合わせや、極限粘度の異な
る二種類のポリトリメチレンテレフタレートの組み合わ
せが好ましく、特に、特開2000−239927号公
報に例示されるような極限粘度の異なる二種類のポリト
リメチレンテレフタレートを用い、低粘度側が高粘度側
を包み込むように接合面形状が湾曲しているサイドバイ
サイド型に複合紡糸したものが、高度のストレッチ性と
嵩高性を兼備するものであり特に好ましい。
Regarding composite spinning, Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-191
08, JP-A-11-189923 and JP-A-2
000-239927, JP-A-2000-2569
No. 18, etc., the first component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, the second component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate,
Polyesters such as polybutylene terephthalate, and those that are compound-spun into side-by-side type or eccentric sea core type in which nylon is arranged in parallel or eccentrically, especially a combination of polytrimethylene terephthalate and copolymerized polytrimethylene terephthalate, A combination of two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities is preferable. In particular, two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities as exemplified in JP-A-2000-239927 are used, and the low viscosity side has a high viscosity. A composite yarn spun into a side-by-side type in which the joining surface shape is curved so as to enclose the side has both high stretchability and bulkiness, and is particularly preferable.

【0011】添加することができる第三成分としては、
脂肪族ジカルボン酸(シュウ酸、アジピン酸等)、脂環
族ジカルボン酸(シクロヘキサンジカルボン酸等)、芳
香族ジカルボン酸(イソフタル酸、ソジウムスルホイソ
フタル酸等)、脂肪族グリコール(エチレングリコー
ル、1,2−プロピレングリコール、テトラメチレング
リコール等)、脂環族グリコール(シクロヘキサンジメ
タノール等)、芳香族を含む脂肪族グリコール(1,4
−ビス(β−ヒドロキシエトキシ)ベンゼン等)、ポリ
エーテルグリコール(ポリエチレングリコール、ポリプ
ロピレングリコール等)、脂肪族オキシカルボン酸(ω
−オキシカプロン酸等)、芳香族オキシカルボン酸(P
−オキシ安息香酸等)等が挙げられる。又、1個又は3
個以上のエステル形成性官能基を有する化合物(安息香
酸等又はグリセリン等)も重合体が実質的に線状である
範囲内で使用出来る。
The third component that can be added includes:
Aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (such as oxalic acid and adipic acid), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (such as cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (such as isophthalic acid and sodium sulfoisophthalic acid), and aliphatic glycols (such as ethylene glycol and 1, 2-propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexane dimethanol, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4
-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω
-Oxycaproic acid), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P
-Oxybenzoic acid, etc.). Also one or three
Compounds having more than one ester-forming functional group (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

【0012】さらにポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊
維には、二酸化チタン等の艶消剤、リン酸等の安定剤、
ヒドロキシベンゾフェノン誘導体等の紫外線吸収剤、タ
ルク等の結晶化核剤、アエロジル等の易滑剤、ヒンダー
ドフェノール誘導体等の抗酸化剤、難燃剤、制電剤、顔
料、蛍光増白剤、赤外線吸収剤、消泡剤等の改質剤が添
加により含有されていてもよい。本発明においてポリト
リメチレンテレフタレート糸条は、還元粘度ηsp/c
が0.4〜2.5、好ましくは0.7〜1.8の前記の
ポリエステルを溶融紡糸して、1500m/分程度の巻
取り速度で巻取って未延伸糸を得た後、2〜3.5倍程
度で延撚する方法、紡糸−延撚工程を直結した直延法
(スピンドロー法)、巻き取り速度5000m/分以上
の高速紡糸法(スピンテイクアップ法)により製造され
る長繊維である。
The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber further includes a matting agent such as titanium dioxide, a stabilizer such as phosphoric acid,
UV absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments, fluorescent brighteners, and infrared absorbers A modifier such as an antifoaming agent may be contained by addition. In the present invention, the polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn has a reduced viscosity ηsp / c
Is from 0.4 to 2.5, preferably from 0.7 to 1.8, melt-spun and wound at a winding speed of about 1500 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn. A method of drawing by about 3.5 times, a direct drawing method (spin draw method) directly connecting a spinning-drawing step, and a length produced by a high-speed spinning method (spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more. Fiber.

【0013】溶融紡糸において、2000m/分、好ま
しくは2500〜4000m/分の巻取り速度で引取っ
て得られる部分配向未延伸糸を用いることもできる。こ
の場合には、仮撚加工は当然のことながら延伸仮撚法が
適用される。本発明で用いられるポリトリメチレンテレ
フタレート繊維の形態は、代表的には複数の単糸からな
る連続フィラメント糸、つまり長繊維である。繊維はそ
の単糸の断面が長さ方向に均一なものや太細のあるもの
でもよく、その断面形状は、丸型、三角、L型、T型、
Y型、W型、八葉型、偏平、ドッグボーン型等の多角形
型、多葉型、中空型や不定形なものでもよい。単糸の太
さは0.1dtex〜10dtex程度とするのが好ま
しく、高い伸長回復性を得るためには3dtex〜10
dtexとするのがより好ましい。
In the melt spinning, a partially oriented undrawn yarn obtained by drawing at a winding speed of 2000 m / min, preferably 2500 to 4000 m / min can be used. In this case, the stretch false twist method is applied as a matter of course for the false twist processing. The form of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in the present invention is typically a continuous filament yarn composed of a plurality of single yarns, that is, a long fiber. The fiber may have a single yarn having a uniform cross section in the length direction or a thick and thin cross section, and its cross section may be round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped,
It may be a polygonal type such as a Y type, a W type, an eight leaf type, a flat shape, a dog bone type or the like, a multi leaf type, a hollow type or an irregular type. The thickness of the single yarn is preferably about 0.1 dtex to 10 dtex, and in order to obtain high elongation recovery property, 3 dtex to 10 dtex.
dtex is more preferable.

【0014】本発明の複合糸の芯糸はポリトリメチレン
テレフタレート繊維で構成された特定の物性を有する仮
撚糸を用いることが必要である。該仮撚糸を用いること
によって、高いストレッチ性(即ち高い伸長性と伸長回
復性)、優れたストレッチバック感、大きな膨らみ感、
良好な張り、腰を持った布帛を得ることができる。スト
レッチ性を要求される布帛は高い伸長性、すなわち小さ
い応力で大きな伸びを得られ、かつストレッチバック感
の強いものが良いとされている。芯糸が特定の物性を有
する仮撚捲縮を有したポリトリメチレンテレフタレート
繊維の場合は、布帛内において複合糸は捲縮が縮む力に
よってある程度縮んでおり、布帛を伸ばす時はまず複合
糸の芯糸の捲縮が伸びるために小さな応力で伸長するこ
とができ、かつその伸びも大きい。
As the core yarn of the composite yarn of the present invention, it is necessary to use a false twist yarn having specific physical properties and composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. By using the false twisted yarn, high stretchability (that is, high stretchability and stretch recovery), excellent stretchback feeling, large swelling feeling,
A fabric with good tension and waist can be obtained. It is said that a fabric that requires stretchability has high elongation, that is, a fabric that can obtain a large elongation with a small stress and has a strong stretchback feeling. In the case where the core yarn is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having a false twist crimp having specific physical properties, the composite yarn is shrunk to some extent in the fabric due to the force of the crimp shrinkage. Since the crimp of the core yarn is elongated, the core yarn can be elongated with a small stress, and the elongation is large.

【0015】一方、捲縮を有しないフィラメント糸を芯
糸にした複合糸を用いた布帛では、伸長性は芯糸である
フィラメントの伸長性に依存するため、複合糸を伸長す
るためには大きな力が必要であり、かつその伸びもフィ
ラメントの伸長弾性限界以下、あるいは最大でも破断伸
度以下であり、高い伸長性は得られない。芯糸に捲縮を
有しないポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維を用いた
場合は、ヤング率がポリエチレンテレフタレート等と比
較して小さいために比較的小さな力で伸長できるが、複
合糸自体の伸びやすさは仮撚糸使いの複合糸と比べると
やはり小さいため、本発明の目的とする高い伸長性は得
られない。また、本発明の複合糸では、芯糸が捲縮を有
しているため、鞘糸を構成する単繊維との摩擦が生糸を
使った場合よりも大きくなり、巻き返し、製織、製編時
等の工程中で該複合糸が伸長されたり、しごかれた際に
芯糸と鞘糸がずれにくく工程性能が向上する。
On the other hand, in a fabric using a composite yarn in which a filament yarn having no crimp is used as a core yarn, the extensibility depends on the extensibility of the filament which is the core yarn. A force is required, and the elongation is less than the elongation elastic limit of the filament, or at most less than the elongation at break, and high extensibility cannot be obtained. When polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having no crimp is used for the core yarn, the Young's modulus is smaller than that of polyethylene terephthalate, etc., so that it can be stretched with a relatively small force. Since it is still smaller than a composite yarn using a twisted yarn, the high elongation targeted by the present invention cannot be obtained. Further, in the composite yarn of the present invention, since the core yarn has crimping, the friction with the single fiber constituting the sheath yarn is larger than that in the case of using raw yarn, and the yarn is rewound, woven, knitted, and the like. When the composite yarn is stretched or squeezed during the step, the core yarn and the sheath yarn are hardly displaced, and the process performance is improved.

【0016】芯糸に用いるポリトリメチレンテレフタレ
ート繊維の仮撚糸は、伸縮伸長率が100%以上である
ことが必要である。より好ましくは130%以上、更に
好ましくは150%以上である。伸縮伸長率が大きいほ
ど高い伸長性を有した複合糸となるが、伸縮伸長率が1
00%未満では本発明の目的とする高い伸長性を有した
複合糸は得られない。但し、仮撚温度や仮撚数が高すぎ
て捲縮が過度に大きくなった場合は、仮撚糸の強度、伸
度が低下して布帛の強度等に問題が出てくるため、伸縮
伸長率は300%以下であることが好ましい。また、伸
縮弾性率は80%以上であることが必要である。伸縮弾
性率は、捲縮を伸長したときの戻りやすさを表す指標で
あり、この値が大きいほどストレッチバック感の優れた
複合糸になり、伸縮弾性率が80%未満ではストレッチ
バック感に劣る複合糸となる。
The false-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used for the core yarn must have an expansion / contraction rate of 100% or more. It is more preferably at least 130%, further preferably at least 150%. The larger the stretch ratio is, the higher the stretchability of the composite yarn becomes.
If it is less than 00%, the composite yarn having high elongation, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be obtained. However, if the crimping temperature and the number of false twists are too high and the crimp becomes excessively large, the strength and elongation of the false twisted yarn will decrease and the strength of the fabric will become problematic. Is preferably 300% or less. The elastic modulus of elasticity needs to be 80% or more. The stretch elastic modulus is an index indicating the ease of return when the crimp is stretched. The larger this value is, the more excellent the stretchback feeling of the composite yarn is, and the less the elastic modulus is less than 80%, the poorer the stretchback feel is. It becomes a composite yarn.

【0017】ここで、伸縮伸長率、伸縮弾性率は、2.
6×10-4cN/dtexの荷重下で乾熱90℃×15
分処理を行い、無荷重で一昼夜放置した後、JIS−L
−1090の伸縮性試験方法(A法)に準じて測定した
ものである。仮撚加工の方法としては、一般に用いられ
ているピンタイプ、フリクションタイプ、ニップベルト
タイプ、エアー加撚タイプ等いかなる方法によるもので
もよい。また、1ヒーター仮撚、2ヒーター仮撚のいず
れであってもよいが、高い伸長性を得るためには1ヒー
ター仮撚の方が好ましい。仮撚ヒーター温度は、第1ヒ
ーターの出口直後の糸条温度が100℃以上200℃以
下、好ましくは120℃以上180℃以下、特に好まし
くは130℃以上170℃以下の範囲になるようにヒー
ター温度を設定することが好ましい。
Here, the expansion and contraction rate and expansion and contraction elastic modulus are as follows.
Dry heat 90 ° C × 15 under a load of 6 × 10 -4 cN / dtex
Minute treatment, and leave it overnight with no load.
It was measured according to the elasticity test method (Method A) of -1090. As a method of false twisting, any method generally used such as a pin type, a friction type, a nip belt type, and an air twist type may be used. Either one-heater false twist or two-heater false twist may be used, but in order to obtain high elongation, one-heater false twist is more preferable. The temperature of the false twist heater is set so that the yarn temperature immediately after the outlet of the first heater is in the range of 100 ° C to 200 ° C, preferably 120 ° C to 180 ° C, and particularly preferably 130 ° C to 170 ° C. Is preferably set.

【0018】また必要に応じて、本発明の伸縮伸長率、
伸縮弾性率を満足する範囲で第2ヒーターで熱セットし
て、2ヒーター仮撚糸としても良い。第2ヒーター温度
は100℃以上210℃以下、好ましくは第1ヒーター
の出口直後の糸条温度に対して−30℃以上+50℃以
下の範囲とするのが好ましい。第2ヒーター内のオーバ
ーフィード率(第2オーバーフィード率)は+3%以上
+30%以下とするのが好ましい。仮撚数Tは、ポリエ
チレンテレフタレート系ポリエステル繊維の仮撚加工で
通常に用いられる範囲でよく、次式で計算される。この
場合、仮撚数の係数Kの値が18500〜37000の
範囲であることが好ましく、仮撚糸の太さによって好ま
しい仮撚数Tが決定される。 T(T/m)=K/(仮撚糸の繊度(dtex))1/2
If necessary, the elongation and contraction ratio of the present invention
The second heater may be heat-set by a second heater within a range satisfying the elastic modulus to make a two-heater false twisted yarn. The temperature of the second heater is preferably in the range of 100 ° C. to 210 ° C., and more preferably in the range of −30 ° C. to + 50 ° C. with respect to the yarn temperature immediately after the outlet of the first heater. It is preferable that the overfeed rate (second overfeed rate) in the second heater is not less than + 3% and not more than + 30%. The number of false twists T may be in a range normally used for false twisting of polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester fiber, and is calculated by the following equation. In this case, the value of the coefficient K of the number of false twists is preferably in the range of 18500 to 37000, and the preferred number of false twists T is determined by the thickness of the false twisted yarn. T (T / m) = K / (fineness of false twisted yarn (dtex)) 1/2

【0019】本発明の複合糸の芯糸は、ポリトリメチレ
ンテレフタレート繊維100%で構成された仮撚糸(ヤ
ング率、伸度、染色性等の各種物性の異なるポリトリメ
チレンテレフタレート繊維を複合、例えば伸度の異なる
ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維同志のいわゆる伸
度差仮撚、フィード差、位相差仮撚したものも含む)が
最適であるが、必要に応じて、混率が50%以下、好ま
しくは30%以下の範囲内において他の繊維(下記の鞘
糸として例示した繊維)と公知の複合手段(例えばポリ
トリメチレンテレフタレート延伸糸とポリエチレンテレ
フタレート未延伸糸や半延伸糸(POY)との伸度差仮
撚等下記の鞘糸において例示した複合方法)により複合
したものでもよい。
The core yarn of the composite yarn of the present invention is a false twisted yarn composed of 100% polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber (polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having different physical properties such as Young's modulus, elongation, dyeing properties, etc.). The so-called elongation difference false twist, feed difference and phase difference false twist of polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers having different elongations are optimal, but if necessary, the mixing ratio is 50% or less, preferably 30% or less. % Or less, and the elongation difference between other fibers (fibers exemplified as the sheath yarns below) and a known composite means (for example, a polytrimethylene terephthalate drawn yarn and a polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn or a semi-drawn yarn (POY)) Compounding may be performed by the following method, such as false twisting.

【0020】鞘糸は特に限定されるものではなく、目的
とする商品の要求特性に合わせた糸構成とすればよく、
ナイロン、ポリエチレンテレフタレート、ポリトリメチ
レンテレフタレート、ポリブチレンテレフタレート等の
ポリエステル、アクリル等の合成繊維、レーヨン、キュ
プラ、アセテート等の化学繊維、または綿、麻、ウー
ル、絹等の天然繊維のいずれであっても良く、また、短
繊維、長繊維のいずれでも良く、長繊維の場合は、原糸
使い、仮撚糸や流体噴射加工糸等の嵩高加工糸使い、ス
ラブ糸等の意匠糸使い等、いずれであっても良い。さら
にはこれらの繊維を複合して用いても良い。複合方法に
ついては、従来公知の各種の複合方法を利用できるもの
であり、例えば交撚、混繊、混紡(サイロスパン、サイ
ロフィル含む)、複合仮撚(伸度差、フィード差、位相
差仮撚)、同時フィード又はフィード差流体噴射加工等
がある。
[0020] The sheath yarn is not particularly limited, and may have a yarn configuration adapted to the required characteristics of the target product.
Nylon, polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyester such as polybutylene terephthalate, synthetic fiber such as acrylic, chemical fiber such as rayon, cupra, acetate, or natural fiber such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk, etc. Also, any of short fibers and long fibers may be used, and in the case of long fibers, use of raw yarn, use of bulky processed yarn such as false twisted yarn or fluid jet processed yarn, use of designed yarn such as slab yarn, etc. There may be. Further, these fibers may be used in combination. As the compounding method, various conventionally known compounding methods can be used, and examples thereof include twisting, blending, blending (including silospan and silofil), and composite false twisting (elongation difference, feed difference, phase difference false twist). ), Simultaneous feed or feed difference fluid jetting.

【0021】芯糸と鞘糸の比率は、重量比で芯糸の比率
が5%〜80%の範囲とするのが好ましく、より好まし
くは芯糸の比率が20%〜60%の範囲である。芯糸の
比率が大きいほど弾性回復性に優れた複合糸となり、ス
トレッチバック感の優れた布帛が得られるが、あまり芯
糸の比率が大きすぎると鞘芯構造の複合糸になり難いば
かりでなく、鞘糸の風合いを充分に活かすことができな
い。逆に芯糸の比率が小さいほど伸長時の応力が低くな
り、低応力で伸長性の高い複合糸が得られるが、あまり
芯糸の比率が小さすぎると充分なストレッチバック感が
得られない。
The ratio of the core yarn to the sheath yarn is preferably in the range of 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 60%. . As the ratio of the core yarn increases, the composite yarn becomes more excellent in elastic recovery, and a fabric excellent in stretch back feeling can be obtained.However, when the ratio of the core yarn is too large, not only is it difficult to become a composite yarn having a sheath-core structure, but also In addition, the texture of the sheath yarn cannot be fully utilized. Conversely, the smaller the ratio of the core yarn, the lower the stress at the time of elongation, so that a composite yarn with low stress and high extensibility can be obtained. However, if the ratio of the core yarn is too small, a sufficient stretch-back feeling cannot be obtained.

【0022】本発明の複合糸の芯糸に用いる仮撚糸は追
撚して用いてもよく、特に仮撚糸の仮撚方向と逆方向に
追撚して用いると、さらに伸長性と伸長回復性が向上す
るので好ましい。この理由は、仮撚方向と逆方向に撚糸
することで芯糸の捲縮形態がばね様の螺旋構造をとるよ
うになり、より高い伸長性と回復性を得ることができる
ためである。追撚数としては、下記の式で算出される撚
係数K’が2700〜13000の範囲となるように追
撚するのが好ましい。 K’=撚糸数(T/m)×{仮撚糸の繊度(dte
x)}1/2
The false twisted yarn used as the core yarn of the composite yarn of the present invention may be twisted and used. In particular, when the false twisted yarn is twisted in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction, the stretchability and the elongation recovery property are further improved. This is preferred because The reason for this is that by twisting in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction, the crimped form of the core yarn has a spring-like spiral structure, and higher extensibility and recoverability can be obtained. As the number of twists, the twisting is preferably performed so that the twist coefficient K ′ calculated by the following equation is in the range of 2700 to 13000. K ′ = number of twisted yarn (T / m) × {fineness of false twisted yarn (dte
x)} 1/2

【0023】本発明の複合糸は、他の合成繊維を芯糸に
した複合糸と比べて特に鞘糸の風合いを活かした複合糸
となる。以下にその理由を説明する。複合糸の風合いや
手触り感は鞘糸の種類によって決まるが、芯糸のヤング
率が高いと鞘糸の風合いを阻害してしまう。本発明の芯
糸を構成するポリトリメチレンテレフタレート仮撚糸は
ヤング率が非常に小さいため、複合する相手素材の風合
いを極力阻害せずに相手素材の風合いを活かすことがで
きる。
The composite yarn of the present invention is a composite yarn that makes use of the texture of the sheath yarn, in particular, as compared with the composite yarn using other synthetic fibers as the core yarn. The reason will be described below. The feel and feel of the composite yarn are determined by the type of the sheath yarn, but if the Young's modulus of the core yarn is high, the feel of the sheath yarn is impaired. Since the polytrimethylene terephthalate false twist yarn constituting the core yarn of the present invention has a very small Young's modulus, the texture of the mating material can be utilized without disturbing the texture of the mating material as much as possible.

【0024】また、本来常圧で染色を行う素材をポリエ
チレンテレフタレート繊維等と複合して130℃程度の
高温で染色を行うと、やはり鞘糸の風合いを阻害してし
まう。例えば、綿やウール等の天然繊維は100℃を大
きく越える高温で染色すると著しく風合いが硬くなる問
題があり、アクリルも110℃を越える高温で染色する
と黄変する問題がある。本発明の芯糸を構成するポリト
リメチレンテレフタレート仮撚糸はポリエチレンテレフ
タレート仮撚糸と比較すると低温で染色が可能であり、
適正な染料を選ぶことによって濃色でも常圧染色あるい
は110℃以下の低温で染色が可能である。従って、本
発明の複合糸を比較的低温で染色を行うことによってこ
れらの問題を解決し、鞘糸の風合い、色相、光沢を活か
した複合糸を得ることができる。
Further, if a material which is originally dyed under normal pressure is combined with polyethylene terephthalate fiber and dyed at a high temperature of about 130 ° C., the texture of the sheath yarn is also impaired. For example, natural fibers such as cotton and wool have a problem that the texture becomes extremely hard when dyed at a high temperature greatly exceeding 100 ° C., and acrylic also has a problem that yellowing occurs when dyed at a high temperature exceeding 110 ° C. Polytrimethylene terephthalate false twist yarn constituting the core yarn of the present invention can be dyed at a lower temperature than polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn,
By selecting an appropriate dye, even a dark color can be dyed at normal pressure or at a low temperature of 110 ° C. or less. Therefore, these problems can be solved by dyeing the composite yarn of the present invention at a relatively low temperature, and a composite yarn utilizing the feel, hue, and gloss of the sheath yarn can be obtained.

【0025】本発明の複合糸は、ポリトリメチレンテレ
フタレート繊維で構成された仮撚糸をまず製造し、該仮
撚糸を芯糸として鞘糸に他の繊維を複合する方法で製造
するのが好ましい。具体的な製造方法としては、短繊維
の精紡工程で芯に該仮撚糸を挿入してコアスパンヤーン
とする方法、カバリング機等で該仮撚糸の周囲に紡績糸
あるいはフィラメント糸を巻き付けて芯鞘構造とする方
法、合撚糸機で紡績糸あるいはフィラメント糸をオーバ
ーフィードして該仮撚糸の周囲に巻きつける方法、該仮
撚糸と該仮撚糸よりも熱収縮率の低い紡績糸あるいはフ
ィラメント糸を合撚あるいはエア交絡した後、染色等の
熱処理によって芯鞘構造とする方法、流体噴射加工によ
って該仮撚糸に紡績糸あるいはフィラメント糸をオーバ
ーフィードして交絡させる方法等が適用できる。
The composite yarn of the present invention is preferably produced by first producing a false twisted yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and using the false twisted yarn as a core yarn to composite another fiber with a sheath yarn. Specific production methods include a method of inserting the false twisted yarn into a core in a short fiber spinning step to form a core spun yarn, and winding a spun yarn or a filament yarn around the false twisted yarn with a covering machine or the like. A method of forming a sheath structure, a method of overfeeding a spun yarn or a filament yarn with a knitting yarn machine and winding the yarn around the false twisted yarn, a method of forming the false twisted yarn and a spun yarn or a filament yarn having a lower heat shrinkage than the false twisted yarn. After twisting or air entanglement, a method of forming a core-sheath structure by heat treatment such as dyeing, a method of overfeeding a spun yarn or a filament yarn to the false twisted yarn by fluid jetting, and the like can be applied.

【0026】さらに、本発明と類似した糸構造を持つ複
合糸の製造方法として、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレー
ト繊維の仮撚加工時に同時に鞘糸成分を複合する方法、
例えばポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維と該繊維よ
りも高伸度のフィラメント糸を同時に仮撚して高伸度の
フィラメント糸を鞘糸とする方法(伸度差仮撚法)、ポ
リトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維の仮撚時に他のフィ
ラメント糸をよりオーバーフィードして鞘糸とする方法
(フィード差仮撚法)等が挙げられるが、このような方
法では芯糸の伸縮伸長率は本発明の要件を満足すること
ができないため、本発明の目的とする高い伸長性を有す
る複合糸は得られない。
Further, as a method for producing a composite yarn having a yarn structure similar to that of the present invention, a method of simultaneously compounding a sheath yarn component during false twisting of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber,
For example, a method in which a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and a filament yarn having a higher elongation than the fiber are false-twisted at the same time to make the high-elongation filament yarn a sheath yarn (elongation difference false twist method). A method in which another filament yarn is over-fed into a sheath yarn at the time of false twisting (feed difference false twisting method) is exemplified. In such a method, the expansion and contraction rate of the core yarn satisfies the requirements of the present invention. Therefore, the composite yarn having high elongation, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be obtained.

【0027】その理由は、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレ
ート繊維を単独で仮撚する場合に比べて、ポリトリメチ
レンテレフタレート繊維と他のフィラメント糸と先に複
合して仮撚加工を行うと、複合糸の総繊度が大きくなっ
た分だけ仮撚数を下げざるを得ないため、芯糸の捲縮が
相対的に甘くなり、捲縮数が少なく伸縮伸長率の小さい
仮撚糸にしかならないからである。また、伸度差仮撚法
やフィード差仮撚法では、加撚工程においてすでに複合
糸が鞘芯構造になっているため、芯糸はヒーターと直接
接することがなく、熱セット効果が不充分なものとな
り、やはり芯糸の捲縮が不充分なものとなるためであ
る。
[0027] The reason is that, compared to the case where the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is false-twisted alone, when the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and the other filament yarn are combined first and then false-twisted, the total amount of the composite yarn is increased. This is because the number of false twists must be reduced by an amount corresponding to the increase in the fineness, so that the crimp of the core yarn becomes relatively sweet, and the number of crimps is small, and only a false twisted yarn with a small expansion and contraction rate can be obtained. In addition, in the elongation difference false twisting method and the feed difference false twisting method, since the composite yarn already has a sheath-core structure in the twisting step, the core yarn does not directly contact the heater, and the heat setting effect is insufficient. This is because crimping of the core yarn becomes insufficient.

【0028】本発明の複合糸の芯糸に用いるポリトリメ
チレンテレフタレート繊維の仮撚糸は、以下の式で定義
するクリンプ係数が100〜200、好ましくは110
〜160を満足する捲縮数を有していることが好まし
い。 クリンプ係数=捲縮数(個/cm)×{芯糸の繊度(d
tex)}1/2 なお、捲縮数は以下の測定方法により求めた。試料を
2.6×10-4cN/dtexの荷重下で乾熱90℃×
15分処理を行い、無荷重で一昼夜放置する。その後、
捲縮を伸ばさないようにして単糸フィラメントを取り出
し、試料の単位繊度当たり1.764×10-3cN/d
tex(2mg/d)の初荷重を掛け、試料長25mm
当たりの捲縮の山と谷の合計数を数え、2で割った値を
捲縮数とし、単位長さ当たりの捲縮数(個/cm)に換
算する。測定は10回行い、その平均値を算出する。
The false-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used as the core yarn of the composite yarn of the present invention has a crimp coefficient defined by the following equation of 100 to 200, preferably 110:
It is preferable to have a number of crimps satisfying 160160. Crimp coefficient = number of crimps (pieces / cm) × {fineness of core yarn (d
tex)} 1/2 The number of crimps was determined by the following measuring method. The sample was dried at 90 ° C. under a load of 2.6 × 10 −4 cN / dtex.
Perform the treatment for 15 minutes, and leave it overnight with no load. afterwards,
The single filament was taken out without expanding the crimp, and 1.764 × 10 −3 cN / d per unit fineness of the sample.
tex (2mg / d) initial load, sample length 25mm
The total number of peaks and valleys per crimp is counted, and the value obtained by dividing by 2 is used as the number of crimps, which is converted into the number of crimps per unit length (pieces / cm). The measurement is performed ten times, and the average value is calculated.

【0029】ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート繊維を単
独で仮撚加工し充分な捲縮を有する仮撚糸は、捲縮数も
充分多いため、クリンプ係数は100以上を満足し、そ
の複合糸は高い伸縮性を有する。一方、他のフィラメン
トを複合した後に仮撚加工を行った糸は、充分な捲縮を
有せず捲縮数も少ないため、クリンプ係数は100未満
となり、その複合糸は伸縮性の低いものとなる。本発明
の複合糸は必要に応じて適当な撚数で撚糸して用いても
良い。コアスパンヤーンや合撚糸、あるいは複合後の撚
糸における撚り方向は、前述のように芯糸の仮撚方向と
逆方向に撚糸するのが好ましい。
A false-twisted yarn obtained by false-twisting a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber alone and having sufficient crimp has a sufficiently large number of crimps, so that the crimp coefficient satisfies 100 or more, and the composite yarn has high elasticity. Have. On the other hand, the yarn subjected to false twisting after compounding other filaments does not have sufficient crimp and has a small number of crimps, so the crimp coefficient is less than 100, and the composite yarn has low elasticity. Become. The composite yarn of the present invention may be used by twisting with an appropriate number of twists as necessary. As described above, the twist direction of the core spun yarn, the ply-twisted yarn, or the twisted yarn after compounding is preferably the opposite direction to the false twisting direction of the core yarn.

【0030】本発明の複合糸は、伸長率が30%以上、
好ましくは30〜100%、さらに好ましくは30〜7
5%であり、弾性回復率が70%以上、好ましくは80
〜100%である。この範囲内にある複合糸を用いて製
織された織物は、大きなストレッチ率を有し、回復率も
優れたものとなり、また、風合いも優れたストレッチバ
ック感があり、膨らみ感が大きく、ソフトで、張り、腰
に優れた風合いを持った極めて高品位な織物となる。
The composite yarn of the present invention has an elongation of 30% or more,
Preferably 30 to 100%, more preferably 30 to 7%
5%, and the elastic recovery rate is 70% or more, preferably 80%.
100100%. The woven fabric woven using the composite yarn within this range has a large stretch rate, an excellent recovery rate, and also has an excellent stretch back feeling, a large swelling feeling, and a soft feeling. It is an extremely high-quality fabric with an excellent texture on the back, tension and waist.

【0031】以下、本発明を実施例などにより具体的に
説明するが、本発明は実施例などにより何ら限定される
ものではない。尚、実施例及び比較例における評価は以
下の方法により行った。 (1)強度、伸度、初期引張抵抗度(ヤング率) JIS−L−1013、化学繊維フィラメント糸試験方
法、引張強さ、伸び率及び初期引張抵抗度の試験方法に
準じて測定した。測定は各々の試料につき10回ずつ行
い、平均値を算出した。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples and the like, but the present invention is not limited to the examples and the like. The evaluation in Examples and Comparative Examples was performed by the following method. (1) Strength, Elongation, Initial Tensile Resistance (Young's Modulus) Measured according to JIS-L-1013, a test method for chemical fiber filament yarn, tensile strength, elongation, and initial tensile resistance. The measurement was performed 10 times for each sample, and the average value was calculated.

【0032】(2)10%伸長時の弾性回復率 試料に8.82×10-2cN/dtexの初荷重をか
け、毎分20%の伸びの一定割合の速度で伸ばし、伸度
10%になったところで今度は逆に同じ速度で収縮させ
て、応力−歪曲線を描く。収縮中、応力が初荷重と等し
い8.82×10 -2cN/dtexにまで低下した時の
残留伸度をLとし、下記式で算出した。 10%伸長時の弾性回復率=(10−L)/10×10
0(%) 測定は各々の試料につき10回ずつ行い、平均値を算出
した。
(2) Elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation 8.82 × 10-2Initial load of cN / dtex
Stretch at a constant rate of 20% elongation per minute
When 10% is reached, reverse the contraction at the same speed
Draw a stress-strain curve. During shrinkage, the stress equals the initial load
8.82 × 10 -2when it drops to cN / dtex
The residual elongation was set to L and calculated by the following equation. Elastic recovery at 10% elongation = (10−L) / 10 × 10
0 (%) Measurement is performed 10 times for each sample, and the average value is calculated.
did.

【0033】(3)還元粘度ηsp/c ポリマーを90℃でo−クロロフェノール溶剤に1g/
デシリットルの濃度で溶解し、その後、得られた溶液を
オストワルド粘度管に移し35℃で測定し、下記式によ
り算出した。 ηsp/c=(T/T0 −1)/C T:試料溶液の落下時間(秒) T0 :溶剤の落下時間(秒) C:溶液濃度(g/デシリットル)
(3) Reduced viscosity ηsp / c 1 g / mol of a polymer was added to an o-chlorophenol solvent at 90 ° C.
After dissolving at a concentration of deciliter, the resulting solution was transferred to an Ostwald viscometer, measured at 35 ° C., and calculated by the following equation. .eta.sp / c = (T / T0 -1) / C T: Fall time of sample solution (seconds) T0: Fall time of solvent (seconds) C: Solution concentration (g / deciliter)

【0034】(4)複合糸の伸長回復性 複合糸を、無荷重で熱水処理(98℃×30分)を行
い、脱水乾燥後、24時間放置する。次に試料の単位繊
度当たり1.764×10-3cN/dtex(2mg/
d)の初荷重を掛け、試料長L0 =100mmで引張試
験機にセットし、引張速度50mm/分で伸長し、荷重
が試料の単位繊度当たり8.82×10-2cN/dte
x(0.1g/d)になった時点で停止し、伸びL1 を
読み取る。そのまま1分間放置した後、同じ速度で元の
長さまで戻し、3分間放置後、再び同じ速度で伸長し、
初荷重と同じ応力になった時点の伸びL2 を読み取り、
以下の式で伸長率(%)、弾性回復率を算出する。 伸長率(%)=L1 /L0 ×100 弾性回復率(%)=〔(L1 −L2 )/L1 〕×100 測定は各々の試料につき10回ずつ行い、平均値を算出
した。
(4) Elongation Recovery of Composite Yarn The composite yarn is subjected to hot water treatment (98 ° C. × 30 minutes) without load, dehydrated and dried, and then left for 24 hours. Next, 1.764 × 10 −3 cN / dtex (2 mg /
d) The initial load is applied, the sample is set in a tensile tester with a sample length L0 = 100 mm, and the sample is elongated at a tensile speed of 50 mm / min. The load is 8.82 × 10 -2 cN / dte per unit fineness of the sample.
Stop when it reaches x (0.1 g / d) and read the elongation L1. After standing for 1 minute, return to the original length at the same speed, and after 3 minutes, extend again at the same speed,
Read the elongation L2 when the stress becomes the same as the initial load,
The elongation (%) and the elastic recovery are calculated by the following equations. Elongation (%) = L1 / L0 × 100 Elastic recovery (%) = [(L1-L2) / L1] × 100 Measurement was performed 10 times for each sample, and the average value was calculated.

【0035】(5)布帛の伸長回復性 複合糸を用いた織物を経、緯それぞれの方向に幅20m
m、長さ150mmにカットし、把持長L0’=100
mmで引張試験機にセットし、引張速度100mm/分
で伸長し、荷重が試料の単位幅当たり4.9N/cm
(0.5kg/cm)になった時点で停止し、直ちに同
じ速度で元の長さまで戻す。記録した荷重−伸び曲線か
ら、荷重4.9cN/cmの時の伸びL1’、及び元の
長さまで戻す際に荷重が0になった時点の伸びL2’を
読み取り、以下の式でストレッチ率(%)、回復率を算
出する。 ストレッチ率(%)=(L1’/L0’)×100 回復率(%)=〔(L1’−L2’)/L1’〕×10
0 測定は各々の試料につき5回ずつ行い、平均値を算出し
た。
(5) Elongation recoverability of the fabric A fabric having a width of 20 m in each of the weft directions through the woven fabric using the composite yarn
m, cut to a length of 150 mm, gripping length L0 '= 100
mm in a tensile tester, stretched at a tensile speed of 100 mm / min, and the load was 4.9 N / cm per unit width of the sample.
(0.5 kg / cm), stop immediately and return to the original length at the same speed. From the recorded load-elongation curve, the elongation L1 ′ when the load was 4.9 cN / cm and the elongation L2 ′ when the load became 0 when returning to the original length were read, and the stretch ratio ( %), And the recovery rate is calculated. Stretch rate (%) = (L1 ′ / L0 ′) × 100 Recovery rate (%) = [(L1′−L2 ′) / L1 ′] × 10
0 measurement was performed five times for each sample, and the average value was calculated.

【0036】(6)布帛の風合い評価 複合糸を用いた織物のストレッチバック感、膨らみ感、
ソフト性、張り、腰について、5人のパネラーの官能評
価により10段階で判定した。最高点が10級、最低点
が1級とし、5人の平均値を算出した。
(6) Evaluation of texture of fabric Stretch back feeling, swelling feeling of woven fabric using composite yarn,
Softness, tightness, and waist were determined on a scale of 10 based on the sensory evaluation of five panelists. The highest score was 10th grade and the lowest score was 1st grade, and the average value of five people was calculated.

【0037】[0037]

【実施例1】ηsp/c=0.8のポリトリメチレンテ
レフタレートを、紡糸温度265℃、紡糸速度1200
m/分で紡糸して未延伸糸を得、次いで、ホットロール
温度60℃、ホットプレート温度140℃、延伸倍率3
倍、延伸速度800m/分で延撚して、84dtex/
24fの延伸糸を得た。延伸糸の強度、伸度、初期引張
抵抗度並びに10%伸長時の弾性回復率は、各々3.4
cN/dtex、42%、23cN/dtex並びに9
8%であった。
Example 1 Polytrimethylene terephthalate having ηsp / c = 0.8 was prepared by spinning at a temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200.
m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn, then hot roll temperature 60 ° C, hot plate temperature 140 ° C, draw ratio 3
And twisted at a stretching speed of 800 m / min to obtain 84 dtex /
A drawn yarn of 24f was obtained. The strength, elongation, initial tensile resistance and elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the drawn yarn were 3.4, respectively.
cN / dtex, 42%, 23 cN / dtex and 9
8%.

【0038】得られた延伸糸を、石川製作所製のピン仮
撚機IVF338を用いて、糸速度190m/分、仮撚
数3230T/m、第1オーバーフィード率が−1%、
第1ヒーター温度が170℃、仮撚方向がS方向の条件
で1ヒーター仮撚を行い、巻取りフィード率が+4.0
%の条件でパッケージに巻き取った。得られた仮撚糸の
伸縮伸長率は192%、伸縮弾性率は88%、捲縮数は
15.1個/cm、クリンプ係数は138であった。な
お、第1オーバーフィード率とは[(第1フィードロー
ラー周速−第2フィードローラー周速)/第2フィード
ローラー周速×100]で表され、巻取りフィード率は
[(第2フィードローラー周速−ワインダーローラー周
速)/第2フィードローラー周速×100]で表され
る。
Using a pin false twisting machine IVF338 manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, the obtained drawn yarn was subjected to a yarn speed of 190 m / min, a false twist number of 3230 T / m, a first overfeed rate of -1%,
One heater false twist is performed under the condition that the first heater temperature is 170 ° C. and the false twist direction is S direction, and the winding feed rate is +4.0.
It was wound up in a package under the conditions of%. The stretchable stretch ratio of the obtained false twisted yarn was 192%, the stretchable elastic modulus was 88%, the number of crimps was 15.1 / cm, and the crimp coefficient was 138. The first overfeed ratio is represented by [(first feed roller peripheral speed−second feed roller peripheral speed) / second feed roller peripheral speed × 100], and the winding feed ratio is [(second feed roller peripheral speed). Peripheral speed−winder roller peripheral speed) / second feed roller peripheral speed × 100].

【0039】次に、リング精紡機を用い、ウール紡績糸
の精紡工程に該仮撚糸を芯に挿入して複合糸(コアスパ
ンヤーン)を得た。使用したウールのクオリティは60
番、複合糸の番手はメートル番手1/48Nm(208
dtex)、撚数はZ方向に700T/mとした。得ら
れた複合糸をコーンワインダーでコーンに巻き直した
が、芯糸と鞘糸のずれは全く発生せず、工程性能は極め
て良好であった。複合糸の伸長率は48%と大きく、弾
性回復率は84%と優れたものであった。得られた複合
糸を経糸と緯糸に用いて、織組織が2/1のツイルの織
物を製織後、液流染色機を用いて以下の工程で染色、仕
上げ加工を行い、織密度が経31本/cm、緯27本/
cmの織物を得た。
Next, using a ring spinning machine, the false twisted yarn was inserted into a core in a spinning step of a wool spun yarn to obtain a composite yarn (core spun yarn). The quality of wool used is 60
The count of the composite yarn is 1/48 Nm (208
dtex), and the number of twists was 700 T / m in the Z direction. The obtained composite yarn was re-wound onto a cone using a cone winder, but no deviation between the core yarn and the sheath yarn occurred, and the process performance was extremely good. The elongation of the composite yarn was as large as 48%, and the elastic recovery was as excellent as 84%. After weaving a twill woven fabric having a weaving structure of 2/1 using the obtained composite yarn as a warp and a weft, dyeing and finishing are performed in the following steps using a liquid jet dyeing machine, and the weaving density is reduced to 31. Book / cm, weft 27 book /
cm of fabric.

【0040】染色工程:精錬(95℃)→プレセット
(150℃有幅セット)→分散染料染色(105℃)→
弱還元洗浄(80℃)→クロム染料染色(98℃)→ソ
ーピング(80℃)→乾燥(120℃)→仕上げセット
(150℃) 得られた織物のストレッチ率、回復率、風合い評価結果
を表.1に示す。経、緯とも大きなストレッチ率を有
し、回復率も優れたものであった。また、風合いも優れ
たストレッチバック感があり、膨らみ感が大きく、ソフ
トで、張り、腰に優れた風合いを持った極めて高品位な
織物であった。
Dyeing process: Refining (95 ° C) → Preset (150 ° C wide set) → Disperse dye dyeing (105 ° C) →
Weak reduction washing (80 ° C) → chrome dye dyeing (98 ° C) → soaping (80 ° C) → drying (120 ° C) → finishing set (150 ° C) Table showing the stretch rate, recovery rate and texture evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. . It is shown in FIG. It had a large stretch rate in both the process and the weft, and the recovery rate was also excellent. In addition, the fabric had an excellent stretch back feeling, a large swelling feeling, and was a very high-quality fabric having a soft, tight, and excellent waist texture.

【0041】[0041]

【実施例2】実施例1と同様にして56dtex/24
fのポリトリメチレンテレフタレート延伸糸を得た。延
伸糸の強度、伸度、初期引張抵抗度並びに10%伸長時
の弾性回復率は、各々3.5cN/dtex、44%、
22cN/dtex並びに98%であった。得られた延
伸糸を用い、糸速度180m/分、仮撚数3780T/
m、第1オーバーフィード率±0%、第1ヒーター温度
160℃とした以外は実施例1と同様にして仮撚糸を得
た。得られた仮撚糸の伸縮伸長率は156%、伸縮弾性
率は86%、捲縮数は16.6個/cm、クリンプ係数
は124であった。
Embodiment 2 56 dtex / 24 in the same manner as in Embodiment 1.
Thus, a polytrimethylene terephthalate drawn yarn of f was obtained. The strength, elongation, initial tensile resistance and elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the drawn yarn were 3.5 cN / dtex, 44%, respectively.
22 cN / dtex and 98%. Using the obtained drawn yarn, a yarn speed of 180 m / min and a false twist number of 3780 T /
m, a first overfeed rate ± 0%, and a first heater temperature of 160 ° C., to obtain a false twisted yarn in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretchable stretch ratio of the obtained false twisted yarn was 156%, the stretchable elastic modulus was 86%, the number of crimps was 16.6 / cm, and the crimp coefficient was 124.

【0042】次に、実施例1と同様に番手1/48Nm
(208dtex)、撚数Z700T/mのウールとの
複合糸(コアスパンヤーン)を得た。得られた複合糸の
工程性能は極めて良好であり、伸長率は50%と大き
く、弾性回復率も83%と優れたものであった。得られ
た複合糸を経糸と緯糸に用いて、実施例1と同様にして
織物を得た。評価結果を表.1に示す。得られた織物は
実施例1と同様にストレッチ率、回復率とも優れたもの
であり、また風合いの評価結果もストレッチバック感、
膨らみ感、ソフト性、張り、腰ともに優れた織物であっ
た。
Next, as in the first embodiment, the count is 1/48 Nm.
(208 dtex), a composite yarn (core spun yarn) with wool having a twist number of Z700 T / m was obtained. The process performance of the obtained composite yarn was extremely good, the elongation was as large as 50%, and the elastic recovery was as excellent as 83%. A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the obtained composite yarn was used for warp and weft. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretch rate and recovery rate as in Example 1, and the evaluation results of the texture showed a stretch back feeling,
The fabric was excellent in swelling, softness, tension, and waist.

【0043】[0043]

【実施例3】複合糸の鞘糸として単糸繊度1.7dte
x、繊維長51mmのアクリル短繊維(旭化成カシミロ
ン)を用いた以外は、実施例2と同様にして番手1/3
2Nm、撚数Z540T/mの複合糸を得た。得られた
複合糸を経糸と緯糸に用いて、織組織が2/1のツイル
の織物を製織後、液流染色機を用い、クロム染料の代わ
りにカチオン染料を用いた以外は実施例1と同様にして
染色、仕上げ加工を行い、織密度が経25本/cm、緯
23本/cmの織物を得た。評価結果を表.1に示す。
得られた織物は実施例1と同様にストレッチ率、回復率
とも優れたものであり、また風合いの評価結果もストレ
ッチバック感、膨らみ感、ソフト性、張り、腰ともに優
れた織物であった。
Example 3 A single yarn fineness of 1.7 dte was used as the sheath yarn of the composite yarn.
x, count 1/3 in the same manner as in Example 2 except that acrylic short fiber (Asahi Kasei Cashilon) having a fiber length of 51 mm was used.
A composite yarn having 2 Nm and a twist number of Z540 T / m was obtained. The obtained composite yarn was used for the warp and the weft, and after weaving a twill woven fabric having a woven structure of 2/1, a liquid jet dyeing machine was used, and a cationic dye was used in place of the chromium dye. Dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner to obtain a woven fabric having a woven density of 25 yarns / cm and a weft of 23 yarns / cm. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG.
The obtained woven fabric was excellent in the stretch ratio and the recovery ratio as in Example 1, and the evaluation result of the texture was a woven fabric excellent in stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tightness and waist.

【0044】[0044]

【実施例4】複合糸の芯糸として28dtex/12f
のポリトリメチレンテレフタレート延伸糸(強度3.3
cN/dtex、伸度45%、初期引張抵抗度22cN
/dtex、10%伸長時の弾性回復率97%)を用
い、仮撚条件を糸速度150m/分、仮撚数5190T
/m、第1オーバーフィード率±0%とした以外は実施
例1と同様にして仮撚糸を得た。次いで実施例3と同様
にして複合糸、及び織物を得た。評価結果を表.1に示
す。得られた織物は実施例1と同様にストレッチ率、回
復率とも優れたものであり、また風合いの評価結果もス
トレッチバック感、膨らみ感、ソフト性、張り、腰とも
に優れた織物であった。
Example 4 28 dtex / 12f as core yarn of composite yarn
Drawn polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn (strength 3.3)
cN / dtex, elongation 45%, initial tensile resistance 22cN
/ Dtex, elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation of 97%) and the false twisting conditions were as follows: yarn speed 150 m / min, false twist number 5190T
/ M and a first overfeed rate of ± 0%, to obtain a false twisted yarn in the same manner as in Example 1. Next, a composite yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in the stretch ratio and the recovery ratio as in Example 1, and the evaluation result of the texture was a woven fabric excellent in stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tightness and waist.

【0045】[0045]

【実施例5】仮撚条件を、第1ヒーター温度150℃と
した以外は実施例2と同様にして仮撚糸を得た。次いで
実施例3と同様にして複合糸、及び織物を得た。評価結
果を表.1に示す。芯糸の伸縮伸長率がやや小さいた
め、得られた複合糸の伸長率、及び織物のストレッチ率
がやや低いものの、ストレッチバック感、膨らみ感、ソ
フト性、張り、腰ともに優れた織物であった。
Example 5 A false twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the temperature of the false twist was changed to the first heater temperature of 150 ° C. Next, a composite yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. Although the stretch ratio of the core yarn was slightly small, the stretch ratio of the obtained composite yarn and the stretch ratio of the woven fabric were slightly low, but the woven fabric was excellent in stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tension, and waist. .

【0046】[0046]

【実施例6】仮撚糸の仮撚り方向をZ方向にした以外は
実施例1と同様にして複合糸、及び織物を得た。評価結
果を表.1に示す。得られた複合糸の伸長率、及び織物
のストレッチ率がやや低いものの、ストレッチバック感
は比較例対比優れており、膨らみ感、ソフト性、張り、
腰ともに優れた織物であった。
Example 6 A composite yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the direction of the false twist was changed to the Z direction. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. Although the elongation rate of the obtained composite yarn and the stretch rate of the woven fabric are slightly lower, the stretch back feeling is superior to the comparative example, and the swelling feeling, softness, tension,
The fabric was excellent in both waist.

【0047】[0047]

【比較例1】実施例1で用いたポリトリメチレンテレフ
タレート繊維の仮撚糸の代わりに、仮撚加工前のポリト
リメチレンテレフタレート繊維の原糸を用いた以外は実
施例1と同様に複合糸を作成し、織物を得た。評価結果
を表.1に示す。得られた複合糸は伸長率が小さく、コ
ーンワインダーでコーンに巻き直す際に部分的に芯糸と
鞘糸のずれが見られ、実施例1と比較して工程性能がや
や劣るものであった。また、得られた織物は、実施例1
と比較するとストレッチ率が小さく、風合いもストレッ
チバック感に劣り、ややペーパーライクで膨らみ感が小
さく、張り、腰も物足りない風合いであった。
Comparative Example 1 A composite yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the raw yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber before false twisting was used instead of the false-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in Example 1. The fabric was obtained. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. The obtained composite yarn had a low elongation rate, and a part of the core yarn and the sheath yarn was partially displaced when re-wound into a cone with a corn winder, and the process performance was slightly inferior to that of Example 1. . Moreover, the obtained woven fabric was obtained in Example 1.
In comparison with the, the stretch ratio was small, the texture was inferior to the stretch-back feeling, the swelling feeling was somewhat small with paper-like, and the tension and waist were unsatisfactory.

【0048】[0048]

【比較例2】実施例1で用いたポリトリメチレンテレフ
タレート繊維の仮撚糸の代わりに、ポリエチレンテレフ
タレート繊維の仮撚糸を用いた以外は実施例1と同様に
複合糸を作成し、織物を得た。なお、ポリエチレンテレ
フタレート繊維の仮撚糸は、84dtex/24fのポ
リエチレンテレフタレート延伸糸(強度4.1cN/d
tex、伸度25%、初期引張抵抗度88cN/dte
x、10%伸長時の弾性回復率42%)を用い、石川製
作所製のピン仮撚機IVF338で、糸速度190m/
分、仮撚数3230T/m、第1オーバーフィード率+
1%、第1ヒーター温度が210℃、仮撚方向がS方向
の条件で1ヒーター仮撚を行った。得られた複合糸をコ
ーンワインダーでコーンに巻き直したが、芯糸と鞘糸の
ずれはほとんど発生せず、工程性能は良好であったが、
伸長率が小さく、弾性回復率も低いものであった。ま
た、得られた織物は、ストレッチ率、回復率とも小さ
く、風合いは膨らみ感はあるものの、ストレッチバック
感に劣り、ソフト性が極めて小さく粗硬な風合いであっ
た。
Comparative Example 2 A composite yarn was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber was used instead of the false twisted yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in Example 1, and a woven fabric was obtained. . The false twist yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber is 84 dtex / 24f drawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn (strength 4.1 cN / d).
tex, elongation 25%, initial tensile resistance 88 cN / dte
x, elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation of 42%), and a yarn false speed of 190 m /
Min, false twist number 3230 T / m, first overfeed rate +
One heater false twist was performed under the conditions of 1%, a first heater temperature of 210 ° C., and a false twist direction of S direction. The obtained composite yarn was rewound around the cone with a corn winder, but the displacement between the core yarn and the sheath yarn hardly occurred, and the process performance was good.
The elongation rate was low and the elastic recovery rate was low. In addition, the obtained woven fabric had a small stretch ratio and a low recovery ratio, and although the texture had a swelling feeling, it was inferior in the stretch back feeling, had extremely low softness, and had a rough and hard texture.

【0049】[0049]

【比較例3】仮撚条件を、仮撚数3300T/m、第1
ヒーター温度140℃とした以外は実施例2と同様にし
て仮撚糸を得た。次いで実施例3と同様にして複合糸、
及び織物を得た。評価結果を表.1に示す。芯糸の伸縮
伸長率、伸縮弾性率が小さいため、得られた複合糸の伸
長率、弾性回復率が小さく、織物のストレッチ率、回復
率も低いものであった。風合い評価では、ソフト性は優
れているものの、膨らみ感がやや小さく、ストレッチバ
ック感、張り、腰に劣る織物であった。
[Comparative Example 3] The false twisting conditions were as follows: the number of false twists was 3300 T / m;
A false twist yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the heater temperature was changed to 140 ° C. Next, the composite yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3.
And a woven fabric. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. Since the stretch ratio and elastic modulus of the core yarn were small, the stretch ratio and elastic recovery ratio of the obtained composite yarn were small, and the stretch ratio and recovery ratio of the woven fabric were also low. In the evaluation of the texture, the fabric was excellent in softness, but slightly swelling, and was inferior in stretch back feeling, tightness and waist.

【0050】[0050]

【実施例7】実施例2と同様に56dtex/24fの
ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート延伸糸を仮撚後、16
7dtex/48fのポリエチレンテレフタレート仮撚
糸をエア交絡させて複合し、Z方向に700T/mの追
撚を行って鞘芯構造の複合糸を得た。得られた複合糸を
経糸と緯糸に用いて、織組織が2/1のツイルの織物を
製織後、液流染色機を用い、以下の工程で染色、仕上げ
加工を行い、織密度が経29本/cm、緯26本/cm
の織物を得た。評価結果を表.1に示す。
Example 7 In the same manner as in Example 2, a 56dtex / 24f polytrimethylene terephthalate drawn yarn was false-twisted,
A 7dtex / 48f polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn was air-entangled and combined, and 700 T / m additional twisting was performed in the Z direction to obtain a sheath-core composite yarn. The obtained composite yarn is used for the warp and the weft, and after weaving a twill woven fabric having a woven structure of 2/1, dyeing and finishing are performed in the following steps using a liquid jet dyeing machine. Book / cm, weft 26 book / cm
Was obtained. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG.

【0051】染色工程:精錬(95℃)→プレセット
(150℃有幅セット)→分散染料染色(105℃)→
弱還元洗浄(80℃)→乾燥(120℃)→仕上げセッ
ト(150℃) 得られた複合糸の伸長率は47%と大きく、弾性回復率
は81%と優れたものであった。また、織物はストレッ
チ率、回復率とも非常に優れたものであり、風合いの評
価結果もストレッチバック感、膨らみ感、ソフト性、張
り、腰ともに優れた織物であった。
Dyeing process: Refining (95 ° C) → Preset (150 ° C wide set) → Disperse dye dyeing (105 ° C) →
Weak reduction washing (80 ° C) → drying (120 ° C) → finishing set (150 ° C) The elongation of the obtained composite yarn was as large as 47%, and the elastic recovery was as excellent as 81%. Further, the woven fabric was very excellent in both the stretch ratio and the recovery ratio, and the evaluation results of the texture showed that the woven fabric was excellent in stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tension, and waist.

【0052】[0052]

【比較例4】56dtex/24fのポリトリメチレン
テレフタレート延伸糸と、155dtex/48fのポ
リエチレンテレフタレート高配向未延伸糸(伸度110
%)をエア交絡させて複合し、石川製作所製のピン仮撚
機IVF338を用いて、糸速度190m/分、仮撚数
2260T/m、第1オーバーフィード率が−1%、第
1ヒーター温度が160℃、仮撚方向がS方向の条件で
1ヒーター仮撚を行い、巻取りフィード率が+4.0%
の条件でパッケージに巻き取った後、Z方向に700T
/mの追撚を行って鞘芯構造の複合糸を得た。次いで実
施例7と同様にして織密度が経29本/cm、緯26本
/cmの織物を得た。評価結果を表.1に示す。
Comparative Example 4 A 56dtex / 24f polytrimethylene terephthalate drawn yarn and a 155dtex / 48f polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn (elongation 110
%) By air entanglement and compounding, using a pin false twister IVF338 manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, yarn speed 190 m / min, number of false twists 2260 T / m, first overfeed rate -1%, first heater temperature Is 160 ° C., and the false twist direction is the S direction, one heater false twist is performed, and the winding feed rate is + 4.0%.
After winding up the package under the condition of 700T in the Z direction
/ M was twisted to obtain a composite yarn having a sheath-core structure. Next, in the same manner as in Example 7, a woven fabric having a woven density of 29 ply / cm and a weft of 26 ply / cm was obtained. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG.

【0053】芯糸を構成するポリトリメチレンテレフタ
レート仮撚糸の伸縮伸長率、伸縮弾性率、及び得られた
複合糸の伸長率、弾性回復率は表.1に示すようにいず
れも低いものであった。また、織物のストレッチ率、回
復率も低く、風合い評価では、ソフト性は優れているも
のの、膨らみ感がやや小さく、ストレッチバック感、張
り、腰に劣る織物であった。
The expansion and contraction rate and expansion and contraction modulus of the polytrimethylene terephthalate false twist yarn constituting the core yarn, and the elongation and elastic recovery of the obtained composite yarn are shown in Table 1. As shown in FIG. 1, all were low. The stretch rate and recovery rate of the woven fabric were low, and in the hand evaluation, the woven fabric was excellent in softness, but had a slightly small swelling feeling and was inferior in stretch back feeling, tightness and waist.

【0054】[0054]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0055】[0055]

【発明の効果】本発明のポリトリメチレンテレフタレー
ト繊維の仮撚糸を芯糸にした複合糸は、高い伸長性と伸
長回復性を有し、工程性能が良好で、該複合糸を用いた
布帛は高いストレッチ性と伸長回復性を有し、ストレッ
チバック感、膨らみ感、ソフト性、張り、腰に優れたも
のである。また、低温で染色できるために鞘糸の風合
い、色相、光沢を活かした複合糸を得ることができる。
本発明の複合糸は、アウター用織物、横編みセーター、
スポーツ用衣料、インナー等の衣料や、椅子張り、カー
シート等のストレッチ性を要求される各種資材用途に有
用である。
The composite yarn of the present invention, in which the false-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is used as the core yarn, has high elongation and elongation recovery properties, and has good process performance. It has high stretchability and stretch recovery, and is excellent in stretchback feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tension, and waist. Further, since the dye can be dyed at a low temperature, it is possible to obtain a composite yarn utilizing the feel, hue and luster of the sheath yarn.
The composite yarn of the present invention is an outer woven fabric, a flat knit sweater,
It is useful for clothing such as sports clothing and innerwear, and for various material applications requiring stretchability, such as upholstery and car seats.

Claims (3)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 鞘芯構造の複合糸であって、芯糸にポリ
トリメチレンテレフタレート繊維で構成された伸縮伸長
率100%以上、伸縮弾性率80%以上の仮撚糸を用い
ることを特徴とする複合糸。
1. A composite yarn having a sheath-core structure, wherein a false-twisted yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and having a stretchable elongation of 100% or more and a stretchable elasticity of 80% or more is used as the core yarn. Composite yarn.
【請求項2】 芯糸が仮撚方向と逆の方向に追撚されて
いることを特徴とする請求項1記載の複合糸。
2. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the core yarn is twisted in a direction opposite to the false twist direction.
【請求項3】 複合糸の伸長率が30%以上、弾性回復
率が70%以上であることを特徴とする複合糸。
3. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn has an elongation of 30% or more and an elastic recovery of 70% or more.
JP2001034869A 2000-02-15 2001-02-13 Conjugate yarn Pending JP2001303378A (en)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
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JP2000036345 2000-02-15
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Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
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Publication Number Publication Date
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Family

ID=26585368

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Country Link
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Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002201548A (en) * 2000-11-06 2002-07-19 Asahi Kasei Corp Uphostery fabric
JP2004044063A (en) * 2002-05-14 2004-02-12 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Yarn-dyed fabric
WO2004094710A1 (en) * 2003-04-24 2004-11-04 Beaumont Gregory Lyons Improved hammock and spreading rod
JP2006193871A (en) * 2005-01-17 2006-07-27 Teijin Fibers Ltd Air interlaced slab textured yarn, method for producing the same and knit, woven fabric
WO2008007682A1 (en) 2006-07-12 2008-01-17 Toray Industries, Inc. False twist yarn and process for producing the same
JP2009133053A (en) * 2007-10-29 2009-06-18 Toray Ind Inc Leather-like sheet-like article, interior material, clothing material and industrial material which use the same and method for producing leather-like sheet-like article
WO2019139177A1 (en) 2019-03-01 2019-07-18 カイハラ産業株式会社 Stretchable fabric, and manufacturing method and manufacturing device for same

Cited By (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002201548A (en) * 2000-11-06 2002-07-19 Asahi Kasei Corp Uphostery fabric
JP2004044063A (en) * 2002-05-14 2004-02-12 Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp Yarn-dyed fabric
WO2004094710A1 (en) * 2003-04-24 2004-11-04 Beaumont Gregory Lyons Improved hammock and spreading rod
JP2006193871A (en) * 2005-01-17 2006-07-27 Teijin Fibers Ltd Air interlaced slab textured yarn, method for producing the same and knit, woven fabric
WO2008007682A1 (en) 2006-07-12 2008-01-17 Toray Industries, Inc. False twist yarn and process for producing the same
US7958714B2 (en) * 2006-07-12 2011-06-14 Toray Industries, Inc. False twisting yarn and production method thereof
JP2009133053A (en) * 2007-10-29 2009-06-18 Toray Ind Inc Leather-like sheet-like article, interior material, clothing material and industrial material which use the same and method for producing leather-like sheet-like article
WO2019139177A1 (en) 2019-03-01 2019-07-18 カイハラ産業株式会社 Stretchable fabric, and manufacturing method and manufacturing device for same

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