JP2001303378A - Conjugate yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a conjugate yarn having high stretchability, stretch recovery and processability and giving a cloth having excellent stretch-back feeling, bulkiness, softness, stretch and stiffness. SOLUTION: The conjugate yarn having a sheath-core structure is obtained by using a core yarn comprising a false-twisted yarn composed of a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and having a stretch elongation of >=100% and a tensile modulus of >=80%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a composite yarn using a polyester false twisted yarn as a core yarn. More specifically, the present invention uses a false-twisted yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber as a core yarn, has high extensibility and elongation recovery, has good process performance, stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, and softness. The present invention relates to a composite yarn capable of obtaining a fabric excellent in tension, tension and waist.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, synthetic fiber filaments such as polyethylene terephthalate fiber and nylon fiber have been used as core yarns.
Composite yarns made of natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk are used as sheath yarns.In addition to the excellent texture and functional properties of moisture absorption and release possessed by natural fibers, the strength and dimensional stability of synthetic fiber filaments The woven or knitted fabric is widely used for a wide range of applications as a yarn having functions such as shape retention. However, in recent years, there has been an increasing demand for stretchability not only for sports clothing but also for general clothing, and a composite yarn using a synthetic fiber filament having no apparent crimp or latent crimp as the core yarn as the composite yarn is used. Then, it was difficult to obtain a satisfactory stretch property, particularly a high stretch property.

[0003] Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-87940 proposes a composite yarn using a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber or a polybutylene terephthalate fiber as a core yarn as a synthetic fiber filament having excellent elongation recovery properties. The composite yarn has a slightly improved stretch-back feeling as compared with a composite yarn using a filament of polyethylene terephthalate fiber or nylon fiber as a core yarn, but the extensibility itself is small.
Although the elongation of the composite yarn depends on the elongation of the filament as the core yarn, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and polybutylene terephthalate fiber do not have a significantly higher elongation than polyethylene terephthalate fiber and nylon fiber. On the other hand, composite yarns using polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers or polybutylene terephthalate fibers as raw yarns still have insufficient stretchability.

In a yarn structure in which short fibers are wrapped around a filament having no crimp, a core is formed when the composite yarn is stretched or squeezed during a process such as rewinding, weaving, or knitting. Since the yarn and the sheath yarn are easily displaced, there are problems in the process performance such that the appearance of the composite yarn is disturbed and fluff or cut yarn is easily generated. Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 9-195142 proposes a sheath-core composite yarn using a polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn as a core yarn and a synthetic fiber and / or a natural fiber as a sheath yarn. A method of overfeeding a sheath yarn using a false twisting machine as an example of a method for producing a composite yarn has been disclosed.However, the false twist conditions, the crimping characteristics of the core yarn, and the stretching characteristics of the composite yarn are not specific. There is no description. Further, since there is a description that the woven or knitted fabric composed of the composite yarn is not excessively stretched because the recovery rate and the tensile stress at the time of 30% elongation of the core yarn are high,
It is clear that the composite yarn does not have high extensibility.

In Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2000-328376, a composite false twisted yarn in which a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is located at the core is formed by interlacing a polytrimethylene terephthalate filament and a filament having a higher elongation than that, and then false twisting. However, there is no specific description about the crimp characteristics of the core yarn. In addition, since the composite yarn is inevitably crimped as compared with the composite yarn using the yarn obtained by false-twisting the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber alone as the core yarn, the object of the present invention is high. Extensibility cannot be expected. Further, in the case of a woven fabric for an outer garment, stretchability and waist are required at the same time as stretchability. However, the above-mentioned conventional composite yarn is insufficient in this respect as well, and a fabric having good tension and waist has been demanded.

[0006]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to solve such problems, to have high elongation and elongation recovery properties, to have good process performance, to provide stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tension, An object of the present invention is to provide a composite yarn from which a fabric having excellent waist can be obtained.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems The present inventors have conducted intensive studies on composite yarns that can achieve the above object, and as a result, have found that a false twisted yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and having a specific crimping property is used as a core. By using a composite yarn having another fiber as a sheath yarn, the composite yarn has high elongation and elongation recovery that could not be achieved conventionally, and has good process performance, and stretch back feeling and swelling feeling. The present inventors have found that a woven or knitted fabric having excellent softness, tension, and waist can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed. That is, the present invention relates to a composite yarn having a sheath-core structure, wherein the core yarn is composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and has an elasticity of 100% or more, and an elasticity of 80 or more.
% Of false twisted yarn.

[0008]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail. The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in the present invention is a polyester fiber having a trimethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit.
0 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more, more preferably 90 mol% or more. Therefore, the total amount of the other acid component and / or glycol component as the third component is about 5%.
0 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less.
It includes polytrimethylene terephthalate contained in an amount of not more than mol%, more preferably not more than 10 mol%.

Polytrimethylene terephthalate allows the polycondensation of terephthalic acid or a functional derivative thereof, such as dimethyl terephthalate, with trimethylene glycol or a functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst under suitable reaction conditions. It is manufactured by In this production process, an appropriate one or more third components may be added to form a copolymerized polyester, or a polyester other than polytrimethylene terephthalate such as polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate, or a nylon and a polytriester. After separately producing methylene terephthalate, blending or composite spinning (sheath core, side-by-side, etc.) may be performed.

Regarding composite spinning, Japanese Patent Publication No. 43-191
08, JP-A-11-189923 and JP-A-2
000-239927, JP-A-2000-2569
No. 18, etc., the first component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, the second component is polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyethylene terephthalate,
Polyesters such as polybutylene terephthalate, and those that are compound-spun into side-by-side type or eccentric sea core type in which nylon is arranged in parallel or eccentrically, especially a combination of polytrimethylene terephthalate and copolymerized polytrimethylene terephthalate, A combination of two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities is preferable. In particular, two kinds of polytrimethylene terephthalates having different intrinsic viscosities as exemplified in JP-A-2000-239927 are used, and the low viscosity side has a high viscosity. A composite yarn spun into a side-by-side type in which the joining surface shape is curved so as to enclose the side has both high stretchability and bulkiness, and is particularly preferable.

The third component that can be added includes:
Aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (such as oxalic acid and adipic acid), alicyclic dicarboxylic acids (such as cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid), aromatic dicarboxylic acids (such as isophthalic acid and sodium sulfoisophthalic acid), and aliphatic glycols (such as ethylene glycol and 1, 2-propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, etc.), alicyclic glycols (cyclohexane dimethanol, etc.), aliphatic glycols containing aromatics (1,4
-Bis (β-hydroxyethoxy) benzene, etc.), polyether glycols (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, etc.), aliphatic oxycarboxylic acids (ω
-Oxycaproic acid), aromatic oxycarboxylic acids (P
-Oxybenzoic acid, etc.). Also one or three
Compounds having more than one ester-forming functional group (such as benzoic acid or glycerin) can also be used as long as the polymer is substantially linear.

The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber further includes a matting agent such as titanium dioxide, a stabilizer such as phosphoric acid,
UV absorbers such as hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, crystallization nucleating agents such as talc, lubricating agents such as aerosil, antioxidants such as hindered phenol derivatives, flame retardants, antistatic agents, pigments, fluorescent brighteners, and infrared absorbers A modifier such as an antifoaming agent may be contained by addition. In the present invention, the polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn has a reduced viscosity ηsp / c
Is from 0.4 to 2.5, preferably from 0.7 to 1.8, melt-spun and wound at a winding speed of about 1500 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn. A method of drawing by about 3.5 times, a direct drawing method (spin draw method) directly connecting a spinning-drawing step, and a length produced by a high-speed spinning method (spin take-up method) with a winding speed of 5000 m / min or more. Fiber.

In the melt spinning, a partially oriented undrawn yarn obtained by drawing at a winding speed of 2000 m / min, preferably 2500 to 4000 m / min can be used. In this case, the stretch false twist method is applied as a matter of course for the false twist processing. The form of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in the present invention is typically a continuous filament yarn composed of a plurality of single yarns, that is, a long fiber. The fiber may have a single yarn having a uniform cross section in the length direction or a thick and thin cross section, and its cross section may be round, triangular, L-shaped, T-shaped,
It may be a polygonal type such as a Y type, a W type, an eight leaf type, a flat shape, a dog bone type or the like, a multi leaf type, a hollow type or an irregular type. The thickness of the single yarn is preferably about 0.1 dtex to 10 dtex, and in order to obtain high elongation recovery property, 3 dtex to 10 dtex.
dtex is more preferable.

As the core yarn of the composite yarn of the present invention, it is necessary to use a false twist yarn having specific physical properties and composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber. By using the false twisted yarn, high stretchability (that is, high stretchability and stretch recovery), excellent stretchback feeling, large swelling feeling,
A fabric with good tension and waist can be obtained. It is said that a fabric that requires stretchability has high elongation, that is, a fabric that can obtain a large elongation with a small stress and has a strong stretchback feeling. In the case where the core yarn is a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having a false twist crimp having specific physical properties, the composite yarn is shrunk to some extent in the fabric due to the force of the crimp shrinkage. Since the crimp of the core yarn is elongated, the core yarn can be elongated with a small stress, and the elongation is large.

On the other hand, in a fabric using a composite yarn in which a filament yarn having no crimp is used as a core yarn, the extensibility depends on the extensibility of the filament which is the core yarn. A force is required, and the elongation is less than the elongation elastic limit of the filament, or at most less than the elongation at break, and high extensibility cannot be obtained. When polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having no crimp is used for the core yarn, the Young's modulus is smaller than that of polyethylene terephthalate, etc., so that it can be stretched with a relatively small force. Since it is still smaller than a composite yarn using a twisted yarn, the high elongation targeted by the present invention cannot be obtained. Further, in the composite yarn of the present invention, since the core yarn has crimping, the friction with the single fiber constituting the sheath yarn is larger than that in the case of using raw yarn, and the yarn is rewound, woven, knitted, and the like. When the composite yarn is stretched or squeezed during the step, the core yarn and the sheath yarn are hardly displaced, and the process performance is improved.

The false-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used for the core yarn must have an expansion / contraction rate of 100% or more. It is more preferably at least 130%, further preferably at least 150%. The larger the stretch ratio is, the higher the stretchability of the composite yarn becomes.
If it is less than 00%, the composite yarn having high elongation, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be obtained. However, if the crimping temperature and the number of false twists are too high and the crimp becomes excessively large, the strength and elongation of the false twisted yarn will decrease and the strength of the fabric will become problematic. Is preferably 300% or less. The elastic modulus of elasticity needs to be 80% or more. The stretch elastic modulus is an index indicating the ease of return when the crimp is stretched. The larger this value is, the more excellent the stretchback feeling of the composite yarn is, and the less the elastic modulus is less than 80%, the poorer the stretchback feel is. It becomes a composite yarn.

Here, the expansion and contraction rate and expansion and contraction elastic modulus are as follows.
Dry heat 90 ° C × 15 under a load of 6 × 10 ^-4 cN / dtex
Minute treatment, and leave it overnight with no load.
It was measured according to the elasticity test method (Method A) of -1090. As a method of false twisting, any method generally used such as a pin type, a friction type, a nip belt type, and an air twist type may be used. Either one-heater false twist or two-heater false twist may be used, but in order to obtain high elongation, one-heater false twist is more preferable. The temperature of the false twist heater is set so that the yarn temperature immediately after the outlet of the first heater is in the range of 100 ° C to 200 ° C, preferably 120 ° C to 180 ° C, and particularly preferably 130 ° C to 170 ° C. Is preferably set.

If necessary, the elongation and contraction ratio of the present invention
The second heater may be heat-set by a second heater within a range satisfying the elastic modulus to make a two-heater false twisted yarn. The temperature of the second heater is preferably in the range of 100 ° C. to 210 ° C., and more preferably in the range of −30 ° C. to + 50 ° C. with respect to the yarn temperature immediately after the outlet of the first heater. It is preferable that the overfeed rate (second overfeed rate) in the second heater is not less than + 3% and not more than + 30%. The number of false twists T may be in a range normally used for false twisting of polyethylene terephthalate-based polyester fiber, and is calculated by the following equation. In this case, the value of the coefficient K of the number of false twists is preferably in the range of 18500 to 37000, and the preferred number of false twists T is determined by the thickness of the false twisted yarn. T (T / m) = K / (fineness of false twisted yarn (dtex)) ^1/2

The core yarn of the composite yarn of the present invention is a false twisted yarn composed of 100% polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber (polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber having different physical properties such as Young's modulus, elongation, dyeing properties, etc.). The so-called elongation difference false twist, feed difference and phase difference false twist of polytrimethylene terephthalate fibers having different elongations are optimal, but if necessary, the mixing ratio is 50% or less, preferably 30% or less. % Or less, and the elongation difference between other fibers (fibers exemplified as the sheath yarns below) and a known composite means (for example, a polytrimethylene terephthalate drawn yarn and a polyethylene terephthalate undrawn yarn or a semi-drawn yarn (POY)) Compounding may be performed by the following method, such as false twisting.

[0020] The sheath yarn is not particularly limited, and may have a yarn configuration adapted to the required characteristics of the target product.
Nylon, polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polyester such as polybutylene terephthalate, synthetic fiber such as acrylic, chemical fiber such as rayon, cupra, acetate, or natural fiber such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk, etc. Also, any of short fibers and long fibers may be used, and in the case of long fibers, use of raw yarn, use of bulky processed yarn such as false twisted yarn or fluid jet processed yarn, use of designed yarn such as slab yarn, etc. There may be. Further, these fibers may be used in combination. As the compounding method, various conventionally known compounding methods can be used, and examples thereof include twisting, blending, blending (including silospan and silofil), and composite false twisting (elongation difference, feed difference, phase difference false twist). ), Simultaneous feed or feed difference fluid jetting.

The ratio of the core yarn to the sheath yarn is preferably in the range of 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably in the range of 20% to 60%. . As the ratio of the core yarn increases, the composite yarn becomes more excellent in elastic recovery, and a fabric excellent in stretch back feeling can be obtained.However, when the ratio of the core yarn is too large, not only is it difficult to become a composite yarn having a sheath-core structure, but also In addition, the texture of the sheath yarn cannot be fully utilized. Conversely, the smaller the ratio of the core yarn, the lower the stress at the time of elongation, so that a composite yarn with low stress and high extensibility can be obtained. However, if the ratio of the core yarn is too small, a sufficient stretch-back feeling cannot be obtained.

The false twisted yarn used as the core yarn of the composite yarn of the present invention may be twisted and used. In particular, when the false twisted yarn is twisted in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction, the stretchability and the elongation recovery property are further improved. This is preferred because The reason for this is that by twisting in the direction opposite to the false twisting direction, the crimped form of the core yarn has a spring-like spiral structure, and higher extensibility and recoverability can be obtained. As the number of twists, the twisting is preferably performed so that the twist coefficient K ′ calculated by the following equation is in the range of 2700 to 13000. K ′ = number of twisted yarn (T / m) × ｛fineness of false twisted yarn (dte
x)｝ ^1/2

The composite yarn of the present invention is a composite yarn that makes use of the texture of the sheath yarn, in particular, as compared with the composite yarn using other synthetic fibers as the core yarn. The reason will be described below. The feel and feel of the composite yarn are determined by the type of the sheath yarn, but if the Young's modulus of the core yarn is high, the feel of the sheath yarn is impaired. Since the polytrimethylene terephthalate false twist yarn constituting the core yarn of the present invention has a very small Young's modulus, the texture of the mating material can be utilized without disturbing the texture of the mating material as much as possible.

Further, if a material which is originally dyed under normal pressure is combined with polyethylene terephthalate fiber and dyed at a high temperature of about 130 ° C., the texture of the sheath yarn is also impaired. For example, natural fibers such as cotton and wool have a problem that the texture becomes extremely hard when dyed at a high temperature greatly exceeding 100 ° C., and acrylic also has a problem that yellowing occurs when dyed at a high temperature exceeding 110 ° C. Polytrimethylene terephthalate false twist yarn constituting the core yarn of the present invention can be dyed at a lower temperature than polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn,
By selecting an appropriate dye, even a dark color can be dyed at normal pressure or at a low temperature of 110 ° C. or less. Therefore, these problems can be solved by dyeing the composite yarn of the present invention at a relatively low temperature, and a composite yarn utilizing the feel, hue, and gloss of the sheath yarn can be obtained.

The composite yarn of the present invention is preferably produced by first producing a false twisted yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, and using the false twisted yarn as a core yarn to composite another fiber with a sheath yarn. Specific production methods include a method of inserting the false twisted yarn into a core in a short fiber spinning step to form a core spun yarn, and winding a spun yarn or a filament yarn around the false twisted yarn with a covering machine or the like. A method of forming a sheath structure, a method of overfeeding a spun yarn or a filament yarn with a knitting yarn machine and winding the yarn around the false twisted yarn, a method of forming the false twisted yarn and a spun yarn or a filament yarn having a lower heat shrinkage than the false twisted yarn. After twisting or air entanglement, a method of forming a core-sheath structure by heat treatment such as dyeing, a method of overfeeding a spun yarn or a filament yarn to the false twisted yarn by fluid jetting, and the like can be applied.

Further, as a method for producing a composite yarn having a yarn structure similar to that of the present invention, a method of simultaneously compounding a sheath yarn component during false twisting of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber,
For example, a method in which a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and a filament yarn having a higher elongation than the fiber are false-twisted at the same time to make the high-elongation filament yarn a sheath yarn (elongation difference false twist method). A method in which another filament yarn is over-fed into a sheath yarn at the time of false twisting (feed difference false twisting method) is exemplified. In such a method, the expansion and contraction rate of the core yarn satisfies the requirements of the present invention. Therefore, the composite yarn having high elongation, which is the object of the present invention, cannot be obtained.

[0027] The reason is that, compared to the case where the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is false-twisted alone, when the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and the other filament yarn are combined first and then false-twisted, the total amount of the composite yarn is increased. This is because the number of false twists must be reduced by an amount corresponding to the increase in the fineness, so that the crimp of the core yarn becomes relatively sweet, and the number of crimps is small, and only a false twisted yarn with a small expansion and contraction rate can be obtained. In addition, in the elongation difference false twisting method and the feed difference false twisting method, since the composite yarn already has a sheath-core structure in the twisting step, the core yarn does not directly contact the heater, and the heat setting effect is insufficient. This is because crimping of the core yarn becomes insufficient.

The false-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used as the core yarn of the composite yarn of the present invention has a crimp coefficient defined by the following equation of 100 to 200, preferably 110:
It is preferable to have a number of crimps satisfying １６０160. Crimp coefficient = number of crimps (pieces / cm) × ｛fineness of core yarn (d
tex)｝ ^{1/2 The} number of crimps was determined by the following measuring method. The sample was dried at 90 ° C. under a load of 2.6 × 10 ⁻⁴ cN / dtex.
Perform the treatment for 15 minutes, and leave it overnight with no load. afterwards,
The single filament was taken out without expanding the crimp, and 1.764 × 10 ⁻³ cN / d per unit fineness of the sample.
tex (2mg / d) initial load, sample length 25mm
The total number of peaks and valleys per crimp is counted, and the value obtained by dividing by 2 is used as the number of crimps, which is converted into the number of crimps per unit length (pieces / cm). The measurement is performed ten times, and the average value is calculated.

A false-twisted yarn obtained by false-twisting a polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber alone and having sufficient crimp has a sufficiently large number of crimps, so that the crimp coefficient satisfies 100 or more, and the composite yarn has high elasticity. Have. On the other hand, the yarn subjected to false twisting after compounding other filaments does not have sufficient crimp and has a small number of crimps, so the crimp coefficient is less than 100, and the composite yarn has low elasticity. Become. The composite yarn of the present invention may be used by twisting with an appropriate number of twists as necessary. As described above, the twist direction of the core spun yarn, the ply-twisted yarn, or the twisted yarn after compounding is preferably the opposite direction to the false twisting direction of the core yarn.

The composite yarn of the present invention has an elongation of 30% or more,
Preferably 30 to 100%, more preferably 30 to 7%
5%, and the elastic recovery rate is 70% or more, preferably 80%.
１００100%. The woven fabric woven using the composite yarn within this range has a large stretch rate, an excellent recovery rate, and also has an excellent stretch back feeling, a large swelling feeling, and a soft feeling. It is an extremely high-quality fabric with an excellent texture on the back, tension and waist.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples and the like, but the present invention is not limited to the examples and the like. The evaluation in Examples and Comparative Examples was performed by the following method. (1) Strength, Elongation, Initial Tensile Resistance (Young's Modulus) Measured according to JIS-L-1013, a test method for chemical fiber filament yarn, tensile strength, elongation, and initial tensile resistance. The measurement was performed 10 times for each sample, and the average value was calculated.

(2) Elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation 8.82 × 10^-2Initial load of cN / dtex
Stretch at a constant rate of 20% elongation per minute
When 10% is reached, reverse the contraction at the same speed
Draw a stress-strain curve. During shrinkage, the stress equals the initial load
8.82 × 10 ^-2when it drops to cN / dtex
The residual elongation was set to L and calculated by the following equation. Elastic recovery at 10% elongation = (10−L) / 10 × 10
0 (%) Measurement is performed 10 times for each sample, and the average value is calculated.
did.

(3) Reduced viscosity ηsp / c 1 g / mol of a polymer was added to an o-chlorophenol solvent at 90 ° C.
After dissolving at a concentration of deciliter, the resulting solution was transferred to an Ostwald viscometer, measured at 35 ° C., and calculated by the following equation. .eta.sp / c = (T / T0 -1) / C T: Fall time of sample solution (seconds) T0: Fall time of solvent (seconds) C: Solution concentration (g / deciliter)

(4) Elongation Recovery of Composite Yarn The composite yarn is subjected to hot water treatment (98 ° C. × 30 minutes) without load, dehydrated and dried, and then left for 24 hours. Next, 1.764 × 10 ⁻³ cN / dtex (2 mg /
d) The initial load is applied, the sample is set in a tensile tester with a sample length L0 = 100 mm, and the sample is elongated at a tensile speed of 50 mm / min. The load is 8.82 × 10 ^-2 cN / dte per unit fineness of the sample.
Stop when it reaches x (0.1 g / d) and read the elongation L1. After standing for 1 minute, return to the original length at the same speed, and after 3 minutes, extend again at the same speed,
Read the elongation L2 when the stress becomes the same as the initial load,
The elongation (%) and the elastic recovery are calculated by the following equations. Elongation (%) = L1 / L0 × 100 Elastic recovery (%) = [(L1-L2) / L1] × 100 Measurement was performed 10 times for each sample, and the average value was calculated.

(5) Elongation recoverability of the fabric A fabric having a width of 20 m in each of the weft directions through the woven fabric using the composite yarn
m, cut to a length of 150 mm, gripping length L0 '= 100
mm in a tensile tester, stretched at a tensile speed of 100 mm / min, and the load was 4.9 N / cm per unit width of the sample.
(0.5 kg / cm), stop immediately and return to the original length at the same speed. From the recorded load-elongation curve, the elongation L1 ′ when the load was 4.9 cN / cm and the elongation L2 ′ when the load became 0 when returning to the original length were read, and the stretch ratio ( %), And the recovery rate is calculated. Stretch rate (%) = (L1 ′ / L0 ′) × 100 Recovery rate (%) = [(L1′−L2 ′) / L1 ′] × 10
0 measurement was performed five times for each sample, and the average value was calculated.

(6) Evaluation of texture of fabric Stretch back feeling, swelling feeling of woven fabric using composite yarn,
Softness, tightness, and waist were determined on a scale of 10 based on the sensory evaluation of five panelists. The highest score was 10th grade and the lowest score was 1st grade, and the average value of five people was calculated.

[0037]

Example 1 Polytrimethylene terephthalate having ηsp / c = 0.8 was prepared by spinning at a temperature of 265 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1200.
m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn, then hot roll temperature 60 ° C, hot plate temperature 140 ° C, draw ratio 3
And twisted at a stretching speed of 800 m / min to obtain 84 dtex /
A drawn yarn of 24f was obtained. The strength, elongation, initial tensile resistance and elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the drawn yarn were 3.4, respectively.
cN / dtex, 42%, 23 cN / dtex and 9
8%.

Using a pin false twisting machine IVF338 manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, the obtained drawn yarn was subjected to a yarn speed of 190 m / min, a false twist number of 3230 T / m, a first overfeed rate of -1%,
One heater false twist is performed under the condition that the first heater temperature is 170 ° C. and the false twist direction is S direction, and the winding feed rate is +4.0.
It was wound up in a package under the conditions of%. The stretchable stretch ratio of the obtained false twisted yarn was 192%, the stretchable elastic modulus was 88%, the number of crimps was 15.1 / cm, and the crimp coefficient was 138. The first overfeed ratio is represented by [(first feed roller peripheral speed−second feed roller peripheral speed) / second feed roller peripheral speed × 100], and the winding feed ratio is [(second feed roller peripheral speed). Peripheral speed−winder roller peripheral speed) / second feed roller peripheral speed × 100].

Next, using a ring spinning machine, the false twisted yarn was inserted into a core in a spinning step of a wool spun yarn to obtain a composite yarn (core spun yarn). The quality of wool used is 60
The count of the composite yarn is 1/48 Nm (208
dtex), and the number of twists was 700 T / m in the Z direction. The obtained composite yarn was re-wound onto a cone using a cone winder, but no deviation between the core yarn and the sheath yarn occurred, and the process performance was extremely good. The elongation of the composite yarn was as large as 48%, and the elastic recovery was as excellent as 84%. After weaving a twill woven fabric having a weaving structure of 2/1 using the obtained composite yarn as a warp and a weft, dyeing and finishing are performed in the following steps using a liquid jet dyeing machine, and the weaving density is reduced to 31. Book / cm, weft 27 book /
cm of fabric.

Dyeing process: Refining (95 ° C) → Preset (150 ° C wide set) → Disperse dye dyeing (105 ° C) →
Weak reduction washing (80 ° C) → chrome dye dyeing (98 ° C) → soaping (80 ° C) → drying (120 ° C) → finishing set (150 ° C) Table showing the stretch rate, recovery rate and texture evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric. . It is shown in FIG. It had a large stretch rate in both the process and the weft, and the recovery rate was also excellent. In addition, the fabric had an excellent stretch back feeling, a large swelling feeling, and was a very high-quality fabric having a soft, tight, and excellent waist texture.

[0041]

Embodiment 2 56 dtex / 24 in the same manner as in Embodiment 1.
Thus, a polytrimethylene terephthalate drawn yarn of f was obtained. The strength, elongation, initial tensile resistance and elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the drawn yarn were 3.5 cN / dtex, 44%, respectively.
22 cN / dtex and 98%. Using the obtained drawn yarn, a yarn speed of 180 m / min and a false twist number of 3780 T /
m, a first overfeed rate ± 0%, and a first heater temperature of 160 ° C., to obtain a false twisted yarn in the same manner as in Example 1. The stretchable stretch ratio of the obtained false twisted yarn was 156%, the stretchable elastic modulus was 86%, the number of crimps was 16.6 / cm, and the crimp coefficient was 124.

Next, as in the first embodiment, the count is 1/48 Nm.
(208 dtex), a composite yarn (core spun yarn) with wool having a twist number of Z700 T / m was obtained. The process performance of the obtained composite yarn was extremely good, the elongation was as large as 50%, and the elastic recovery was as excellent as 83%. A woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the obtained composite yarn was used for warp and weft. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretch rate and recovery rate as in Example 1, and the evaluation results of the texture showed a stretch back feeling,
The fabric was excellent in swelling, softness, tension, and waist.

[0043]

Example 3 A single yarn fineness of 1.7 dte was used as the sheath yarn of the composite yarn.
x, count 1/3 in the same manner as in Example 2 except that acrylic short fiber (Asahi Kasei Cashilon) having a fiber length of 51 mm was used.
A composite yarn having 2 Nm and a twist number of Z540 T / m was obtained. The obtained composite yarn was used for the warp and the weft, and after weaving a twill woven fabric having a woven structure of 2/1, a liquid jet dyeing machine was used, and a cationic dye was used in place of the chromium dye. Dyeing and finishing were carried out in the same manner to obtain a woven fabric having a woven density of 25 yarns / cm and a weft of 23 yarns / cm. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG.
The obtained woven fabric was excellent in the stretch ratio and the recovery ratio as in Example 1, and the evaluation result of the texture was a woven fabric excellent in stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tightness and waist.

[0044]

Example 4 28 dtex / 12f as core yarn of composite yarn
Drawn polytrimethylene terephthalate yarn (strength 3.3)
cN / dtex, elongation 45%, initial tensile resistance 22cN
/ Dtex, elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation of 97%) and the false twisting conditions were as follows: yarn speed 150 m / min, false twist number 5190T
/ M and a first overfeed rate of ± 0%, to obtain a false twisted yarn in the same manner as in Example 1. Next, a composite yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in the stretch ratio and the recovery ratio as in Example 1, and the evaluation result of the texture was a woven fabric excellent in stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tightness and waist.

[0045]

Example 5 A false twisted yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the temperature of the false twist was changed to the first heater temperature of 150 ° C. Next, a composite yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 3. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. Although the stretch ratio of the core yarn was slightly small, the stretch ratio of the obtained composite yarn and the stretch ratio of the woven fabric were slightly low, but the woven fabric was excellent in stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tension, and waist. .

[0046]

Example 6 A composite yarn and a woven fabric were obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the direction of the false twist was changed to the Z direction. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. Although the elongation rate of the obtained composite yarn and the stretch rate of the woven fabric are slightly lower, the stretch back feeling is superior to the comparative example, and the swelling feeling, softness, tension,
The fabric was excellent in both waist.

[0047]

Comparative Example 1 A composite yarn was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the raw yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber before false twisting was used instead of the false-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in Example 1. The fabric was obtained. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. The obtained composite yarn had a low elongation rate, and a part of the core yarn and the sheath yarn was partially displaced when re-wound into a cone with a corn winder, and the process performance was slightly inferior to that of Example 1. . Moreover, the obtained woven fabric was obtained in Example 1.
In comparison with the, the stretch ratio was small, the texture was inferior to the stretch-back feeling, the swelling feeling was somewhat small with paper-like, and the tension and waist were unsatisfactory.

[0048]

Comparative Example 2 A composite yarn was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a false twisted yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber was used instead of the false twisted yarn of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in Example 1, and a woven fabric was obtained. . The false twist yarn of polyethylene terephthalate fiber is 84 dtex / 24f drawn polyethylene terephthalate yarn (strength 4.1 cN / d).
tex, elongation 25%, initial tensile resistance 88 cN / dte
x, elastic recovery rate at 10% elongation of 42%), and a yarn false speed of 190 m /
Min, false twist number 3230 T / m, first overfeed rate +
One heater false twist was performed under the conditions of 1%, a first heater temperature of 210 ° C., and a false twist direction of S direction. The obtained composite yarn was rewound around the cone with a corn winder, but the displacement between the core yarn and the sheath yarn hardly occurred, and the process performance was good.
The elongation rate was low and the elastic recovery rate was low. In addition, the obtained woven fabric had a small stretch ratio and a low recovery ratio, and although the texture had a swelling feeling, it was inferior in the stretch back feeling, had extremely low softness, and had a rough and hard texture.

[0049]

[Comparative Example 3] The false twisting conditions were as follows: the number of false twists was 3300 T / m;
A false twist yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the heater temperature was changed to 140 ° C. Next, the composite yarn was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3.
And a woven fabric. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG. Since the stretch ratio and elastic modulus of the core yarn were small, the stretch ratio and elastic recovery ratio of the obtained composite yarn were small, and the stretch ratio and recovery ratio of the woven fabric were also low. In the evaluation of the texture, the fabric was excellent in softness, but slightly swelling, and was inferior in stretch back feeling, tightness and waist.

[0050]

Example 7 In the same manner as in Example 2, a 56dtex / 24f polytrimethylene terephthalate drawn yarn was false-twisted,
A 7dtex / 48f polyethylene terephthalate false twist yarn was air-entangled and combined, and 700 T / m additional twisting was performed in the Z direction to obtain a sheath-core composite yarn. The obtained composite yarn is used for the warp and the weft, and after weaving a twill woven fabric having a woven structure of 2/1, dyeing and finishing are performed in the following steps using a liquid jet dyeing machine. Book / cm, weft 26 book / cm
Was obtained. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG.

Dyeing process: Refining (95 ° C) → Preset (150 ° C wide set) → Disperse dye dyeing (105 ° C) →
Weak reduction washing (80 ° C) → drying (120 ° C) → finishing set (150 ° C) The elongation of the obtained composite yarn was as large as 47%, and the elastic recovery was as excellent as 81%. Further, the woven fabric was very excellent in both the stretch ratio and the recovery ratio, and the evaluation results of the texture showed that the woven fabric was excellent in stretch back feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tension, and waist.

[0052]

Comparative Example 4 A 56dtex / 24f polytrimethylene terephthalate drawn yarn and a 155dtex / 48f polyethylene terephthalate highly oriented undrawn yarn (elongation 110
%) By air entanglement and compounding, using a pin false twister IVF338 manufactured by Ishikawa Seisakusho, yarn speed 190 m / min, number of false twists 2260 T / m, first overfeed rate -1%, first heater temperature Is 160 ° C., and the false twist direction is the S direction, one heater false twist is performed, and the winding feed rate is + 4.0%.
After winding up the package under the condition of 700T in the Z direction
/ M was twisted to obtain a composite yarn having a sheath-core structure. Next, in the same manner as in Example 7, a woven fabric having a woven density of 29 ply / cm and a weft of 26 ply / cm was obtained. Table showing the evaluation results. It is shown in FIG.

The expansion and contraction rate and expansion and contraction modulus of the polytrimethylene terephthalate false twist yarn constituting the core yarn, and the elongation and elastic recovery of the obtained composite yarn are shown in Table 1. As shown in FIG. 1, all were low. The stretch rate and recovery rate of the woven fabric were low, and in the hand evaluation, the woven fabric was excellent in softness, but had a slightly small swelling feeling and was inferior in stretch back feeling, tightness and waist.

[0054]

[Table 1]

[0055]

The composite yarn of the present invention, in which the false-twisted polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is used as the core yarn, has high elongation and elongation recovery properties, and has good process performance. It has high stretchability and stretch recovery, and is excellent in stretchback feeling, swelling feeling, softness, tension, and waist. Further, since the dye can be dyed at a low temperature, it is possible to obtain a composite yarn utilizing the feel, hue and luster of the sheath yarn.
The composite yarn of the present invention is an outer woven fabric, a flat knit sweater,
It is useful for clothing such as sports clothing and innerwear, and for various material applications requiring stretchability, such as upholstery and car seats.

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A composite yarn having a sheath-core structure, wherein a false-twisted yarn composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber and having a stretchable elongation of 100% or more and a stretchable elasticity of 80% or more is used as the core yarn. Composite yarn. 2. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the core yarn is twisted in a direction opposite to the false twist direction. 3. The composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the composite yarn has an elongation of 30% or more and an elastic recovery of 70% or more.