JP3285018B2 - Polyester interwoven fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

The present invention relates to a multifilament yarn composed of polyester multifilament yarn, comprising a warp yarn comprising at least two components having different shrinkage characteristics, and a weft yarn comprising at least two components having different heat shrinkage. Soft bulge, high resilience, and high color development using crimpable conjugate multifilament yarns in which polyester polymers are joined in parallel or core / sheath in parallel or core / sheath And a polyester interwoven fabric having stretch. In more detail, compared to the conventional polyester multifilament weft using a strong twist yarn, there is a coreless swelling feeling and a soft touch, a comfortable stretch at the time of wearing and a suitable stretchability that is excellent in sewing. The present invention relates to a polyester cross-woven fabric which can be manufactured at a lower cost than the conventional woven fabric using a polyurethane elastic yarn or a woven fabric using a high-torque yarn as a false twisting yarn, and has good handleability in a weaving process. .

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Up to now, synthetic fiber woven fabrics have been
Although we have imitated all aspects of the appearance and touch of chemical fibers, in recent years we have been developing movements that have a unique feel of synthetic fibers, which is completely different from natural fibers in the texture and appearance sensation represented by touch. It is in. A typical method is to use a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, and when shrinking in the dyeing process, create a yarn length difference between the fibers and give a void between the fibers, and increase the air content to increase the fiber content. This is based on the idea of increasing the degree of freedom between the two and giving swelling.

According to this method, a different shrinkage mixed fiber is usually used as a warp yarn.
No. 39, JP-A-1-250433, etc., in a woven fabric using a different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn, the woven fabric obtained has a large shrinkage in the dyeing step, resulting in insufficient drapability of the obtained woven fabric. Since the normal multifilament yarn is strongly twisted and used, the multifilament yarn of the weft yarn is inevitably wire-like, so it becomes a woven fabric with a core and a hard texture, and the yarn generated by the precious shrinkage difference At present, the soft bulge obtained as the effect of the length difference has not been fully utilized. Moreover, since the strong twist yarn does not have elasticity, it was difficult to obtain stretchability.

[0004] Therefore, it has a soft surface touch but feels hard when grasped, and there is no stretch of the fabric at all, so there is no flexibility between the threads, and it is not possible to absorb the elongation strain due to the tension of the sewing thread during sewing. When the fabric is loose and the sewing thread is tight, it becomes a puckering defect, and the sewing product does not look tailored.

[0005] In pursuit of the uniqueness of synthetic fibers,
In terms of functionality, those that eliminate the disadvantages of conventional synthetic fibers,
For example, for water absorption, sweat absorption, antistatic properties, and antifouling properties, various approaches have been developed from both physical and scientific approaches.

[0006] Another concept of functionality is an approach based on properties that synthetic fibers are good at, that is, properties that natural fibers are not good at, such as stretchability.

[0007] With respect to stretchability, the use of polyurethane-based elastic fibers, ie, spandex covering yarns, has been the mainstream, and the woven fabric has a problem in terms of raw yarn and higher processing costs.

Further, for the purpose of cost reduction, a stretchable woven fabric utilizing crimp of false twisted yarn has been studied. However, in the case of a thin woven fabric, use of false twisted yarn only with weft yarn causes the appearance of surface texture. Usually, a fabric having sufficient elasticity cannot be obtained due to insufficient crimping force.

On the other hand, a method for producing a thin, highly stretchable woven fabric having high elasticity and using no false twist using a false twisted yarn is disclosed in Japanese Patent Publication No. 8-30297 and Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-195.
732 proposes this. In both of the proposed manufacturing methods, in order to obtain a high crimp rate and a high torque, the twisting conditions and the twisting or the twisting direction are devised. However, in the production process, false twisting after pre-twisting causes yarn breakage at the time of false twisting, and sometimes reduces production efficiency. In addition, since a high crimp and high torque false twist yarn is used in the twisting method, a yarn breakage problem at the time of twisting sometimes occurs. Furthermore, in weaving using weft yarns, only high-torque yarns require advanced technology for handling, and weaving stops are numerous during weaving. Difficult to produce. Furthermore, since false twisting is performed in spite of strong twisting, there is a drawback that the original feeling of flapping in texture is lost.

On the other hand, there is an example in which a conjugate yarn is subjected to temporary twist processing in order to impart a stretch property to a conjugate yarn in which two different components are arranged in parallel.
In this method, the same problem as in the false twisting method occurs.

Any of the above means for imparting stretchability is not suitable for the case where a hetero-shrink mixed fiber is used as the warp yarn.

[0012]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to use a yarn composed of polyester multifilaments having different shrinkage characteristics for at least two components in a warp yarn, and to provide a weft yarn with at least two components having different heat shrinkage. Using a crimpable conjugate multifilament in which the polyester polymer is joined in parallel or in a core / sheath, it has a natural surface feeling, a soft swelling feeling without a core, and even a moderate elasticity, An object of the present invention is to provide a polyester mixed woven fabric excellent in tailoring appearance.

[0013]

The present invention has the following arrangement to solve the above-mentioned problems. That is, the warp yarn is a yarn composed of polyester multifilaments having different shrinkage characteristics of at least two components, and the weft yarn is formed by joining at least two component polyester polymers different in heat shrinkage in parallel or core-sheath. together consist of the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn of a single yarn, the warp yarn has a twist number real 150~1,000T / M, twist coefficient α is the weft yarn is represented by the following formula 7,000 20,0
It is a polyester mixed woven fabric having an actual twist number of 00.

T = α · D ^−1/2 where T: actual twist number (T / M) α: twist coefficient D: fineness of multifilament (dtex)

[0015]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The warp yarn used in the present invention is formed from a yarn composed of polyester multifilaments having different shrinkage characteristics of at least two components, from 150 T / M to 1,1.
It has a real twist of 000 T / M. The yarn is used to give the fabric a soft touch and swelling effect.

The weft yarn used in the present invention is intended for a polyester multifilament yarn whose main repeating unit is made of polyethylene terephthalate, etc., and is a parallel or core-like yarn using at least two kinds of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkages. Stretch is obtained by heat-twisting and heat-treating the woven fabric using a single yarn of the crimp-expressing conjugate multifilament yarn joined in a sheath. When the crimp-expressing conjugate multifilament yarn constituting this woven fabric is twisted in an aggregated state and heat-treated, a helical crimp develops in the fiber length direction. Make it bigger.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The polyester multifilament yarn having different shrinkage properties of at least two components used in the present invention comprises a high shrinkage polymer obtained by copolymerizing polyethylene terephthalate with isophthalic acid and other acidic components, and a polyethylene low shrinkage component. Composite spinning with homopolymer, blended yarn obtained by drawing, or spinning the above copolymer alone, high shrinkage yarn obtained by drawing and yarn obtained by spinning and drawing the above polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer. As a low-shrink side, a mixed fiber obtained by compounding in a separate process, and a yarn obtained by spinning and drawing a polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer as a high-shrink side,
A mixed fiber obtained by combining a yarn obtained in the same manner as the yarn on the high shrinkage side with a low heat shrinkage by relaxing heat treatment in the same manner as the yarn on the high shrinkage side can be used.

The difference in the shrinkage characteristics of the two components is that the composite yarn preferably has a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or more and 25% or less, more preferably 13% or more and 23% or less. It is preferable that the difference in the boiling water shrinkage between the shrinking yarn and the low shrinking yarn is 10% or more, and furthermore, a combination of properties that the boiling water shrinkage on the high shrinkage side is large and the yarn length difference due to the difference in shrinkage is large is good. For this purpose, it is more preferable that the low shrinkage side has a property that the boiling water shrinkage is 0% or less and has a property of elongation by dry heat treatment after the boiling water treatment, in order to impart soft touch and swelling feeling. On the high shrink side, at least two or more polyester polymers used for weft yarns that are not high shrink yarns shrink in a helical structure like a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn joined in parallel or core / sheath. It may be something.

The warp yarn is 150 T / M or more and 1,000 or more.
It has a real twist of T / M or less. In the case of a multifilament yarn having a difference between the two components and the shrinkage characteristics, generally, there is a tendency that irritability due to a difference in dyeing of the original yarn on the high shrinkage and low shrinkage side tends to occur. This is preferable because it can alleviate this and facilitates the contraction of the conjugate multifilament used for the weft yarn. The irritability phenomenon is almost no problem when the number of twists is 400 T / M or more, but there is a difference in the level of shrinkage. When the number of twists exceeds 1,000 T / M, the swelling due to the difference in shrinkage is reduced, and the surface change due to twisting and the multifilament It is not preferable because it shifts to dry touch due to the convergence effect.

Next, the crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn used in the present invention is intended to be a polyester multifilament yarn whose main repeating unit is made of ethylene terephthalate and the like. Use a polymer. Examples of the polyester polymer having a different heat shrinkability include a polyester homopolymer having a different degree of polymerization, a copolymer obtained by copolymerizing a third component other than a terephthalic acid component and / or an ethylene glycol component, and other polymers. May be blended.

Specifically, as the polyester polymer having different heat shrinkability used in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate alone or ethylene terephthalate unit 80
Copolyesters containing at least mol% are preferred. As the copolymerization component of the copolyester, known components such as isophthalic acid, isophthalic acid having a metal sulfonate group, bisphenols, neopentyl glycol or 1,6-cyclohexanediol can be used. Also,
Other modifiers such as a matting agent, an ultraviolet absorber, a dye-improving component, and a pigment can be compounded in the polyester.

It is important that the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention has a property of developing a helical crimp by relaxation heat treatment. In order to obtain a conjugated multifilament yarn having such properties, the properties of the polyester polymer and the spinning / drawing conditions are important.

As the at least two-component polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage, one having a low-viscosity polyester and one having a high-viscosity component is preferably used. In the case of a homopolyester, the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.35 to 0.55, and the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.65 to 0.85. When the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.35, the melt viscosity is low, and thus, the yarn is difficult to be formed. On the other hand, when the intrinsic viscosity of the low-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.55, the conjugate multifilament has poor crimp developing ability, and the spiral crimp developing ability is reduced. On the other hand, if the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component exceeds 0.85, the melt viscosity becomes high, so that spinning and drawing become difficult. When the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyester component is less than 0.65, the crimp developing power tends to be poor.

The difference in intrinsic viscosity between the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component is preferably in the range of 0.2 to 0.4. However, when a copolyester component is used for one of the components, the intrinsic viscosity difference between the two components can be further reduced.

Here, the intrinsic viscosity [η] was determined as an orthochlorophenol solution at a temperature of 25 ° C.

With respect to the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn used here, there is a suitable composite ratio between the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component in spinning at least two kinds of polyester polymers. That is, the composite ratio of the low-viscosity polyester component and the high-viscosity polyester component is 35 to 65:65 by weight.
To 35, preferably 40 to 60:60 to 40.

In a polyester multifilament yarn in which at least two kinds of polyester polymers are composite-spun in a side-by-side type or a core / sheath type,
If the difference in viscosity between the low-viscosity polymer and the high-viscosity polymer is large between polymers with a high polyethylene terephthalate ratio, the boiling water shrinkage of the multifilament yarn itself in wet heat treatment is low, but the crimped coil diameter of the expressed crimp is large. Is obtained. In addition, when the copolymer is used as a high-viscosity polymer, the multifilament yarn has a high boiling water shrinkage ratio, and the resulting crimped coil diameter is small and fine. It is preferable because a new effect can be provided. The boiling water shrinkage of the conjugated multifilament yarn of the copolymer is preferably from 6% to 15%. If it is less than 6%, the desired swelling and stretchability cannot be obtained, and if it exceeds 15%, the form of the expressed crimp is too fine to obtain an effect. The boiling water shrinkage was measured according to JIS L1013 Skew shrinkage (Method A).

Further, the composite form of the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn may be any form in which at least two components are arranged in parallel or in a core / sheath manner. (Having a large coil diameter and a large number of expressed crimps) is preferable. The composite ratio and the arrangement of the two components are related to the size of the diameter of the spiral coil of the expressed crimp in the relaxation heat treatment of the conjugate fiber,
The larger the coil diameter, the greater the stretching effect.

The spinning speed for obtaining such a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn is usually 1000 m
/ Min or higher speed range from 2500 m / min or higher speed range.

The stretching of the spun undrawn yarn and semi-drawn yarn is performed as follows.
It is possible to stretch with a known stretching device, and the stretched yarn obtained at a strength and elongation level of the obtained stretched yarn with respect to the strength and elongation characteristics of the undrawn yarn and the semi-drawn yarn, and under the condition that no fluff is generated, It is desirable to set conditions under which a large shrinkage stress can be obtained by the relaxation heat treatment. The larger the shrinkage stress, the higher the crimp developing ability of the conjugated multifilament yarn, whereby a hollow structure of the helical coil due to the development of crimp can be obtained by the relaxation heat treatment of the woven fabric in the subsequent step. Conjugate multifilament yarn elongation is 30
% Or less is preferable because high shrinkage stress characteristics can be obtained.

As the drawn yarn, the fineness of a single fiber constituting the conjugated multifilament yarn is 1.1 to 15 dt.
ex is preferred, and more preferably 2 to 10 dtex. In the area thinner than 1.1 dtex, there is a point that it is difficult to make a thread with the current state of the art, but there is a limit in forming a spiral coil, and when it is larger than 15 dtex, it is softer than a straight structure in clothing use because of the spiral structure, The texture tends to be hard.

Further, it is preferable that the conjugate multifilament yarn has a higher shrinkage stress in order to increase the expression of latent crimp. Therefore, in the present invention, the contraction stress is 0.26c
It is preferable to be N / dtex or more.

The method for measuring the shrinkage stress is as follows:
The change in shrinkage stress when heated to around ℃ is detected by a U gauge (strain gauge) and recorded on an X, Y recorder. Trial length:
100mm, sound rising speed: 2.5 ° C / sec, initial load:
(0.0882 cN / dtex × 2). Read the maximum stress (cN) from the chart. (CN is centinewton) The elongation characteristic of the conjugated multifilament yarn of the present invention is preferably as small as possible, preferably 35%.
Or less, more preferably 30% or less, and still more preferably 2% or less.
7%. The elongation and the shrinkage stress are correlated. To increase the shrinkage stress, lower the temperature during stretching and increase the stretching ratio to increase the shrinkage stress and decrease the elongation.

As the conjugate multifilament yarn, by using a multifilament yarn having a helically crimped structure in which a single filament itself is used,
The effect of the stretch property and high resilience on the woven fabric can be further enhanced.

Next, weaving will be described. First, in forming a woven fabric, the above-mentioned conjugate multifilament yarn is twisted. The twist twist converges the filament yarn, and when the fabric is subjected to a relaxation heat treatment, the helical crimp caused by the difference in shrinkage between the two types of polyester polymers having different heat shrinkage is an aggregate when a multifilament yarn is formed. As a result, the individual filaments are kept in the aggregated form as much as possible without causing a phase shift as a spiral, thereby facilitating the development.

In general, the constituent yarns of a woven fabric are interlaced, and there are a weak binding portion and a strong binding portion. That is, in the woven fabric, the intersection of the warp yarn and the weft yarn has a strong binding force, and conversely, the uncrossed floating portion has a small binding force. In order to impart surface change or stretchability by the force of the original yarn used in a woven or knitted fabric, it is possible to impart a morphological change to a portion of the yarn having a small restraining force floating at the intersection.

[0038] In the case of a conventional fabric using a raw yarn, when a straight raw yarn having shrinkage properties is used, no change occurs on the surface and no stretch property is imparted. Further, when the straight raw yarn is twisted to form a fabric, when heat is applied, untwisting torque can cause the surface to change and change the surface, but it is difficult to impart stretchability. In addition, general false twisted yarns have crimps, but do not have the ability to express more than the original crimping performance, so that surface change and stretchability imparting power are small.
In particular, when the crimped yarn is subjected to twisting, the crimp development force is reduced due to the fiber restraining force of the twist, and when the twisting region is 500 T / M or more, the stretchability is not improved even after the relaxation heat treatment. I can't get it.

The same phenomenon occurs with conjugated multifilament yarns. When the crimping force is larger than the restraining force of the warp yarn when the spiral crimp develops, the warp yarn is lifted, the surface of the woven fabric changes, and the fabric becomes crimped, especially when there is a warp yarn on the convex part of the spiral The warp becomes high, however, it has been found that if the warp yarn intersects the concave portion of the spiral spiral, the warp yarn cannot be crimped and the spiral crimp can be easily developed. The floating portion having a small binding force is not crimped, and the spiral crimp expands and contracts to form a stretch of the woven fabric.

That is, the number of twists according to the present invention is an important factor that determines the pitch of the spiral spiral crimp, and at the same time, the pitch of the woven warp yarn intersection point and the spiral coil pitch due to the twist are matched. It is an important requirement to minimize grain and maximize stretch. In addition, by adding strong yarn to the normal yarn, it can be used for weft yarns and relaxed in the dyeing process, and by reducing the amount of alkali, the drape property can be given to the fabric by reducing the friction between fibers. It becomes wire-like by the
The warp yarn develops a difference in yarn length, resulting in a soft touch, but a bulge with a core, which is not preferable. In contrast, those containing the true twist to the conjugate multifilament yarn is void to take carp <br/> Le shape by contracting as a multi-filament aggregate by the helical structure shrinkage caused by shrinkage stress dyeing process Is expressed. For this reason, an effect of providing excellent resilience and a swelling feeling without a core is obtained. The actual twist number has an optimum value depending on the relationship with the fineness. Influences depending on fabric structure and density, but usually twist number T (T / M)
When α = α · D ^−1/2 , α is preferably in the range of 7,000 to 20,000 from the viewpoint of exhibiting the effect. Further, the direction may be either S or Z, but when driving into a weft, a plurality of S and Z twists are alternately arranged, or a plurality of S and Z twists are alternately arranged. It is more preferable to have a large shrinkage effect by untwisting in the relaxing step.

The method of twisting the conjugate multifilament yarn is not particularly limited, and can be carried out by a known technique. The twisting direction may be either S or Z.
After twisting, the twist setting may be performed, but the setting temperature is desirably as low as possible without problem in weaving.

The helical aggregate of the conjugated multifilament yarns subjected to the twisting may be subjected to a relaxation heat treatment to be developed. However, as a usual method, it is preferably carried out in a step of dyeing a woven fabric.

The processing step can be carried out under the usual conditions of general relaxation, intermediate set, alkali weight reduction, dyeing and finishing set. Relaxation treatment requires special attention, but by adopting conditions to relax the helical structure due to the untwisting force of the twisted twist and the emergence of latent crimp of the conjugate yarn, the bulge is increased. Easy to get structure. Although the relaxation treatment can be performed in a continuous spreading manner such as a normal open soaper, a system having a paddy effect by a liquid flow batch system is more preferable. In addition, the length of warp yarn and weft yarn are relatively high like Deshin,
Further, in the case of a woven fabric that requires fine grain on the surface of the woven fabric, it is preferable to take a step having a larger kneading action such as a washer.

In order to cause the actual twisted conjugate yarn of the weft yarn to shrink in a helical structure under dyeing conditions and develop a hollow tubular structure having a diameter as large as possible in the yarn axis direction, after a relaxation step,
It is important to carry out an alkali weight reduction treatment before dyeing, and it is preferable to carry out the weight reduction method by a liquid flow method and a continuous method of pad steam with low tension. After alkali reduction, dyeing is performed with a jet dyeing machine. The dyeing conditions may be those used for ordinary polyester fabrics.

Here, in the twisted structure of the multifilament yarn according to the present invention, the morphological concept of a helical spiral crimp having a helical multifilament aggregate is described.
This can be done by enlarging and photographing the cross section of the woven fabric after dyeing and the side surface of the yarn (multifilament aggregate) released from the woven fabric with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.

In order for the finishing process to be relaxed and develop a spiral spiral crimp even under the binding force of warp yarn,
The higher the shrinkage stress of the conjugated multifilament yarn is, the more preferable the property is because it increases the appearance of latent crimp.
The shrinkage stress is preferably set to 0.265 cN / dtex or more as described above.

In the present invention, the elongation rate is measured by
Three samples of 5.5 cm × 30 cm in width are taken in the weft direction of the woven fabric, and the same number of weft yarns is removed from both sides of the width to 5 cm. The sample is set to 20 cmL, and the sample is fixed to the grip with an initial load equivalent to the weight of a sample having a size of 5 cm x 1 m. Next, the film is stretched to 1.8 kg at a pulling speed of 20 cm / min, a gripping distance L1 at that time is measured, and an elongation ratio (%) is obtained by the following equation, and expressed as an average value of three sheets.

Elongation rate (%) = {(L1-L) / L} × 100

[0049]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below based on embodiments. (Example 1, Comparative Example) As warp yarns, two types of polymers obtained by copolymerizing a homopolymer of polyethylene terephthalate and isophthalic acid were separately melted, and an undrawn yarn co-spun from the same die was hot drawn. 55dte polyester multifilament yarn having different shrinkage characteristics of two components
Using x-24 filament bright yarn, 45
0T / M twisted, warp yarn density of 137 yarns /
It was set to be 2.54 cm. The characteristics of the polyester multifilament yarn having the difference in the two component shrinkage characteristics are that the total boiling water shrinkage is 21.2%, and the high shrinkage side multifilament yarn and the low shrinkage multifilament yarn as a single component each have a boiling water shrinkage of 23.2. 0%, 8.5%
Had.

The weft is based on the present invention.
Polyethylene terephthalate 10 having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47
After spinning a conjugated multifilament undrawn yarn in which a low-viscosity component composed of 0% and a high-viscosity component composed of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 are laminated in a parallel composite at a weight composite ratio of 50:50. A single yarn produced by drawing with a normal drawing machine to produce 55 dtex-12 filaments was used. The shrinkage stress of this multifilament was 0.38 cN / dtex. The single yarn of the multifilament yarn is used, and the single yarn is
1000T for S and Z twist with double twister after this plying
/ M, 1300 T / m, 1600 T / m, 1800 T /
m was twisted. Next, a twisting set was performed by a vacuum steam set at 80 ° C. for 40 minutes.

For comparison, an ordinary semi-dal type polyester multifilament yarn was used, and a double twister was used for S and Z twists of 110 dtex 96 filament yarns of 1600 T / m, 1800 T / m, and 2200 T.
/ M each were twisted. Next, the twisting set was performed by a vacuum steam set at 85 ° C. for 40 minutes.

These set yarns are used as weft yarns of the above-mentioned warp yarns. J. Using L, two weaves of S and Z were alternately woven at a weave density of 74 / 2.54 cm to form a greige machine, and the obtained greige was dyed.

The dyeing process is performed at 60 to 100 ° C. with a washer.
Untwisting and graining are continuously performed at 120 ° C while desizing and scouring, and then, after drying and intermediate setting, 20
%, Alkali dyeing was carried out, followed by dyeing at 130 ° C. with a liquid jet dyeing machine, drying, and finishing. However, the set width was adjusted as appropriate according to the condition of the wrinkles and the surface quality of the wrinkles in accordance with the contraction state of each green fabric.

The obtained woven fabric was obtained by subjecting the conjugate multifilament yarn of the present invention to real twisting, and the surface touch had a soft touch due to the differential shrinkage of the warp yarn, and there was no core. It had mild swelling, completely different resilience from the past, light weight, and high quality with a suitable stretch in the horizontal direction. On the other hand, the woven fabric obtained by adding a real twist to the normal polyester multifilament yarn of the comparative example has a graining effect on the surface which is larger than that of the embodiment, but the swelling feeling is paper-like with a cored touch. The material had a large drape, lacked resilience, and felt heavy. In addition, since there was no stretch property in the horizontal direction, sewing tailoring was required.

As a result of confirming the structure of the obtained weft of the woven fabric by a scanning microscope, in the examples, although there is a difference in the number of twists and the difference in the twisting form, the hollow yarn shrinks spirally and has a hollow tubular structure in the yarn axis direction. And the presence was not confirmed in the comparative examples. Example 2 A polymer consisting of 100% polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.64 was spun at a spinning speed of 3,
Winding was performed at 700 m / min to obtain a highly oriented undrawn yarn having a fineness of 55 dtex and 24 filaments. The results of the physical property measurement were a breaking strength of 2.9 cN / dtex (3.3 g / d), a breaking elongation of 109%, a boiling water shrinkage of 42%, and a birefringence (Δn) of 59 ×.
It was 10 ^-3 . This highly oriented undrawn yarn drum was mixed with a non-contact type heater AT5 from Aiki Seisakusho
A 01 type creel was set, the heater temperature was set to 180 ° C., and the overfeed ratio between the feed roller and the delivery roller was set to 20%, and heat treatment was performed. The highly oriented undrawn yarn subjected to the relaxation heat treatment was taken up alone, and the physical properties of the original yarn were measured. As a result, the shrinkage at 98 ° C boiling water was -1.6%, and the shrinkage at 180 ° C dry heat free shrinkage was -7.3%. % Spontaneous elongation. Then, the intrinsic viscosity [η] 0,
64 polyethylene terephthalate 100% polymer was simultaneously supplied in the form of a 33dtex, 6-filament high-shrink multifilament yarn obtained under normal spinning and drawing conditions, and over-fed to an interlacing nozzle installed between the second delivery rollers. The fiber was supplied and mixed by interlace. The entanglement conditions were changed under various conditions in order to change the performance of the interlace nozzle and the compressed air conditions, and to select conditions free of irritability due to the difference in dyeing property of the woven fabric. The raw yarn characteristics of the multifilament yarn of 33 dtex and 6 filament yarn as the supply yarn have a breaking strength of 4.7 cN.
/ Dtex (5.3 g / d), boiling water shrinkage 19.0%,
The dry heat shrinkage at 180 ° C. was 15.5%. The properties of the obtained two-fiber composite mixed processing yarn are as follows: fineness 100 dtex, breaking strength 1.8 cN / dtex (2 g / d), breaking elongation 3
The water shrinkage was 2.9% and the boiling water shrinkage was 10.5%. The cheese of the composite fiber yarn was divided and wound into a bobbin by a pan winder, and then twisted with a double twister 308 manufactured by Murata Manufacturing Co., Ltd. at a twist number of 600 T / M.
This twisted yarn was beamed (without gluing), beamed, and set as a water jet loom warp yarn.

As the weft yarn, a polyester multifilament yarn 110 dtex, 96 obtained by a normal spinning drawn yarn is used.
A conjugate multifilament yarn 55 dtex × 2 (110 dt) shown in Example 1 was produced using a woven (decin) standard weft produced by applying a strong twist to a filament yarn.
Ex), a plain woven yarn was woven using 1,300 T / M twisted yarn. Green density 130 × 86 (books / 2.54
cm), the dyeing process was carried out with a washer, preset at 180 ° C., weight loss of 20% alkali, drying at 130 ° C. no tension, and finishing at 160 ° C., and finished for printing. Finish density 155 × 100 (book / 2.54c
m). The stretch required for the fabric was kept to a minimum of about 7% in order to avoid processing defects due to the stretch of the fabric during printing. The obtained raised finish has a feeling of swelling, does not feel the core when grasped, the surface touch is a soft touch by spontaneous elongation, has a drape property, a resilient rich, moderate fabric elasticity, It had a tailored feel. At the same time, as a comparison, a polyester twisted polyester multifilament yarn 110 dtex and a 96 filament 2,600 T / M were used for the weft.
It does not feel the core of the weft in the swelling felt when compressing the dough, 3
It had a swelling feeling and drape property due to the three-dimensional crimped structure. When the weft of the finished fabric was photographed and observed with a scanning electron microscope manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd., it was found that the conjugated multifilament yarn having a hollow structure at the center was helically twisted. (Example 3) Polyester terephthalate 100% polymer having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.64 was converted into a polyester multifilament yarn 33 dte by a usual spinning and drawing method.
x, 72 filament yarn was obtained. The characteristics of the obtained yarn are fineness of 32.1 dtex and cutting strength of 3.9 cN / dtex.
(4.4 g / d), breaking elongation 49.1%, boiling water shrinkage 5.
7%, a dry heat shrinkage of 180 ° C. of 8.4%, and an entanglement value of 15. Further, as a mating yarn to be composite-processed with this yarn, polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.64 is a main component, and isophthalic acid and 2,2-bis [4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) phenyl are used as copolymerization components. ] High shrinkage multi-filament yarn 33dtex obtained by spinning and drawing a polymer of Proban, 6 filaments have actual measured fineness of 32.5dtex and cutting strength of 3.5c.
N / dtex (4.0 g / d), elongation at break was 36.2%, boiling water shrinkage was 19.5%, and dry heat shrinkage at 180 ° C. was 30.9%.

Of the two types of yarns, 33dtex-72
AT manufactured by Aiki Seisakusho whose filament side is shown in Example 2.
M / c with contact type heater for -501 type fiber mixing machine
While performing heat treatment at a hot plate heater temperature of 210 ° C. and an overfeed rate of 2%, a high shrinkage multifilament yarn 33dtex-6 filament yarn is merged by the first delivery roller, and then interleaved between the second delivery rollers under overfeed conditions. The confounding treatment was performed by a race nozzle. The obtained composite yarn has a fineness of 68.5 dtex and a cutting strength of 3.4.
cN / dtex, breaking elongation 33.3%, boiling water shrinkage 1
The characteristics were 8.1% and a confounding value of 50.

Using the obtained composite yarn as a warp yarn, a warp sizing method was used to prepare a warp yarn beam, which was set up in a water jet loom. A plain woven fabric was woven using the same weft yarn as that used in Example 2. The green density was 160 × 70 (books / 2.54 cm). Subsequently, the first relaxation was carried out at a liquid flow of 125 ° C. as a dyeing process condition.
The procedure was the same as in Example 2 except for the above. The density of the obtained woven fabric was 190 × 100 (lines / 2.54 cm). For comparison, a normal polyester multifilament yarn 110dtex-96 filament was used as the weft and 2,300 was used as the weft.
One using T / M strong yarn was prepared.

In the obtained woven fabric, although the comparative product has a soft peach-like surface touch, puckering occurs in the direction of the seam at the time of sewing due to a core-like hard texture, and the tailoring is inferior. In addition to the soft peach-like touch, the present invention has a drape with excellent resilience without a core with a rounded swelling feeling.It has been confirmed that the occurrence of puckering is improved even in a sewing test. I could do it. In addition, a hollow tubular structure was confirmed in the length direction of the weft in the SEM photograph of the cross section of the woven weft.

[0060]

According to the present invention, a helical multifilament yarn composed of a multifilament yarn having at least two components having a real twist and different in shrinkage characteristics and a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn having a real twist and different in heat shrinkage. Because it is composed of crimped yarn, its combined effect is superior to conventional woven fabrics using multi-filament yarns with a strong twist, a superior surface texture, swelling without core and soft touch and tightness. It has a light weight and moderate horizontal elasticity, so it can be used in light clothing applications such as shirts, blouses, dresses and linings, and lightweight, stretchy thin coats and jackets. It can be used for black formal black coloring, deep color, excellent sewing tailoring, and walking and care clothes etc. Comfortable wearing feeling is obtained as clothing to be used for the purpose, and inexpensive to manufacture new developments from that it can be expected.

────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (56) References JP-A-6-322661 (JP, A) JP-A-6-57581 (JP, A) JP-A-1-250433 (JP, A) JP-A-8- 170247 (JP, A) JP-A-2000-192350 (JP, A) JP-A-8-170248 (JP, A) JP-A-6-108358 (JP, A) JP-A-11-323696 (JP, A) Kaihei 11-43835 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D03D 1/00-27/18 D01F 8/00-8/18

Claims (9)

(57) [Claims] 1. A warp yarn comprising a polyester multifilament yarn having different shrinkage characteristics of at least two components, and a weft yarn comprising at least a two-component polyester polymer having different heat shrinkage in parallel or a core / sheath. Crimpable conjugated multifilament yarn alone bonded together
It is made of yarn , and the warp yarn is 150-1,000T /
A polyester mixed woven fabric having an actual twist number of M and a weft yarn having an actual twist number of 7,000 to 20,000 represented by the following formula. T = α · D ^-1/2 , where T: actual twist number (T / M) α: twist coefficient D: fineness of multifilament (dtex) 2. The polyester according to claim 1, wherein, in the polyester multifilament yarn having different shrinkage characteristics of at least two components of the warp yarn, the one having a higher boiling water shrinkage ratio contains a copolymer component. Interwoven fabric. 3. Polyester multifilament yarns having different shrinkage characteristics of at least two components of the warp yarns, wherein the smaller the boiling water shrinkage ratio has the spontaneous elongation characteristics of 1% or more. The polyester interwoven fabric according to claim 1 or 2. 4. The polyester multifilament yarn having different shrinkage characteristics of at least two components of the warp yarn, the larger the boiling water shrinkage ratio, the more the at least two component polyester polymers different in heat shrinkage are arranged in parallel or in the core. The polyester cross-woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is a crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn joined in a sheath. 5. The crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn of weft yarns, wherein the twisting direction is S twisted and Z twisted alternately, or a plurality of S twisted and Z twisted yarns. 5. The structure according to claim 1, wherein said structure is alternated.
A polyester mixed woven fabric according to any one of the above. 6. A two-component polyester polymer constituting the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn of the weft, wherein a polyester containing a copolymer component is used in a direction of a larger heat shrinkage ratio, and the crimping is performed. The boiling water shrinkage of the water-soluble conjugate multifilament yarn is 6% or more and 15%
The polyester mixed woven fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein: 7. The polyester cross-woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the crimpable conjugate multifilament yarn of the weft has a hollow tubular structure in the central part in the yarn axis direction. 8. The polyester interwoven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the crimped conjugate multifilament yarn of the weft yarn satisfies the following characteristics. Cutting elongation (TE): 30% or less Shrinkage stress (TS): 0.265 cN / dtex or more 9. The polyester mixed woven fabric according to claim 1, which has been subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment and a dyeing process.