JPH06322661A - Production of stretchable woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce stretchable woven fabric having excellent stretchability, swelling feeling and silk-like handle, etc. CONSTITUTION:A different shrinkage combined filament yarn obtained by combining a latent crimpable conjugate type modified cross section polyester-based fiber A with a latent crimpable conjugate type modified cross section polyester- based fiber B having boiling water shrinkage 5% higher than that of the fiber A is prepared as a warp. The fibers A and B have cross section satisfying shape modification ratio of 1.5-3.0. In the fiber A, crimp percent after treating with boiled water for 30min is >=15% and in the fiber B, this crimp percent is >=20%. The combined filament yarn having different shrinkage has <10000 twist coefficient K. On the one hand, polyester-based hard twist yarn having 10000-25000 twist coefficient K is prepared as weft. Woven fabric obtained by weaving these both yarns is subjected to alkali treatment to reduce the weight in an amount of 5-40%. The woven fabric after reducing the weight is subjected to dyeing finishing under condition capable of giving steam heating of >=100 deg.C to provide the objective stretchable woven fabric having objective characteristics.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woven fabric having an excellent stretchability and an excellent silk-like appearance, feeling, swelling and lightweight.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, various methods have been adopted for imparting excellent stretchability to a woven fabric. For example, there is a method of using a polyurethane-based yarn having excellent elasticity as a yarn constituting a woven fabric. However, this polyurethane yarn has a drawback that the texture is hard as a property peculiar to polyurethane, and thus the texture of the woven fabric is lowered, or the drape property of the woven fabric is reduced. In order to avoid this drawback, it has been practiced to weave a woven fabric by using a polyurethane yarn and a polyester yarn together. However, there is a difference in dyeability between the polyurethane-based yarn and the polyester-based yarn, and the dyeing process becomes complicated when dyeing the fabric, or the desired color (often a dark color) is dyed. It had the drawback of becoming difficult.

Further, it is also practiced to impart elasticity to a woven fabric by using a false twisting yarn as a yarn constituting the woven fabric. A false twisting yarn has a torque inherent in twisting and untwisting, and this torque imparts elasticity to the yarn. However, this torque not only contributes to the stretchability of the woven fabric, but also tends to be transferred to the texture on the surface of the woven fabric. Therefore, the woven fabric composed of the false twist textured yarn has good stretchability, but has a drawback that the surface is likely to be wrinkled. In order to avoid this drawback, the woven fabric is subjected to a heat treatment to reduce the torque in the false twisted yarn, but in this case, the disadvantage of occurrence of wrinkles is reduced, but the original purpose is However, there is a drawback that the elasticity is lowered. In addition, in order to balance the torque in the false twisted yarn, S twist and Z twist are given as false twist directions, and the yarns are combined into twin yarns to weave a woven fabric. ing. However, since each torque is balanced, there is a drawback that the stretchability of the woven fabric is insufficient. That is, the target elongation rate of 20% or more,
In particular, it has been difficult to obtain an elongation rate of 25 to 35%.
Moreover, the elongation recovery was also insufficient.

[0004]

Therefore, there is a method for obtaining a stretchable woven fabric by using a yarn composed of crimpable fibers without using a polyurethane yarn or a false twisted yarn. Being tried. For example, there has been attempted a method in which a woven fabric is woven with a yarn composed of a composite fiber having a latent crimping property, and the woven fabric is heat-treated to develop crimps in the composite fiber. However, even with the commonly used latently crimpable conjugate fiber, a woven fabric having sufficient stretchability could not be obtained. The reason for this is that when a yarn made of latently crimpable conjugate fibers is used for the warp and / or the weft, the yarns are restrained by the woven structure and the crimping performance originally possessed by the conjugate fiber is sufficiently exhibited. It is thought that this is because the crimped composite fiber does not inherently have high elasticity.

Therefore, the applicant of the present invention has a non-twisted or sweet-twisted fiber obtained by mixing two kinds of latently crimpable composite polyester fibers having a specific crimping performance and different boiling water shrinkages. A woven fabric using polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarns and strongly twisted polyester-based yarns is subjected to a specific treatment to fully crimp latent crimpable composite polyester-based fibers present in the woven fabric. We have proposed a method of exerting good performance and imparting good stretchability to the woven fabric (Japanese Patent Application No. 4-283976). That is, the present invention is a latent crimpable composite polyester fiber A having a crimping performance of which the elastic modulus after boiling water treatment for 30 minutes is 50% or more and the crimping rate is 30% or more; A mixture of latently crimpable composite polyester fiber B having a crimping performance such that the boiling water shrinkage is 5% or more, the elastic modulus after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is 50% or more, and the crimping rate is 30% or more. And a polyester-based differential shrinkage mixed filament yarn having a twist coefficient K of less than 10000, which is expressed by the formula (2), and a twist coefficient of 1, which is expressed by the formula (2), which is described later.
0000 to 25000 polyester strong twist yarn, using one of the yarn as a warp and the other yarn as a weft, weaving a woven fabric, and then subjecting the woven fabric to an alkali weight reduction treatment,
The woven fabric is reduced by 5 to 40%, and then the woven fabric is subjected to a dyeing finishing process under the condition that a temperature of moist heat of 100 ° C. or more is given for 30 minutes or more, and at this time, the latent crimpability which constitutes the woven fabric. A method for producing a stretchable woven fabric, characterized in that the composite type polyester fibers A and B are contracted and crimps are developed.

The present inventors have attempted to improve the present invention in order to produce a woven fabric having good silky appearance and texture as well as good stretchability. Then, a non-twisted or sweet twisted polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed fiber obtained by mixing two types of latently crimpable composite atypical polyester-based fibers having a fiber cross-section with a specific shape and different boiling water shrinkage ratios. Alkali weight reduction treatment and dyeing finish processing similar to those adopted in the above invention using a woven fabric using a yarn and a strongly twisted polyester yarn, and using one of them as a warp and the other as a weft. By applying, it is possible to impart the same stretchability, swelling feeling and lightweight feeling to the woven fabric obtained by the method according to the invention, and to impart a silky appearance and texture to the woven fabric. The heading has arrived at the present invention.

[0007]

[Means for Solving the Problems] That is, according to the present invention, the cross section is a trilobal shape satisfying the degree of variation P represented by the following formula (1), and the crimping rate after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is 15% or more. The latent crimping complex type atypical polyester fiber A having the crimping ability of 1. and a cross section having a trilobal shape satisfying the degree of variation P shown by the following formula (1), and the crimping rate after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes Has a crimping performance of 20% or more and has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 5% or more higher than that of the fiber A, and is mixed with a latent crimpable complex type atypical polyester fiber B, and the following formula (2) Using a polyester-based heterogeneous-shrink mixed yarn having a twist coefficient K of less than 10,000 and a polyester-based strongly twisted yarn having a twist coefficient K of 10,000 to 25,000 shown by the following formula (2), one of the yarns is used. A woven fabric is woven using the other yarn as the warp and the weft is then subjected to alkali reduction treatment to reduce the woven fabric by 5 to 40%, Thereafter, the woven fabric is subjected to a dyeing finishing process under the condition that a temperature of moist heat of 100 ° C. or more is applied, and at this time, the latent crimpable composite type atypical polyester fibers A and B constituting the woven fabric are contracted and wound. The present invention relates to a method for producing a stretchable fabric, which is characterized by shrinking. Note 1.5 ≤ P ≤ 3.0 (1) [However, P represents the ratio of the diameters of the circumscribed circle and the inscribed circle of the trilobal shape. ) T = K (1 / D ^1/2 ) ... (2) [where T is the length of the yarn
It represents the number of twists per 1 m, and D represents the denier of the yarn. ]

The polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn used in the present invention is a latent crimpable composite type atypical polyester fiber A.
And a latently crimpable composite type atypical polyester fiber B having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 5% or more higher than that of the fiber A. For example, a multifilament yarn comprising a multifilament yarn composed of latently crimpable composite variant atypical polyester fiber A and a multifilament yarn composed of latently crimpable composite variant atypical polyester fiber B is mixed and bundled, Used as a polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn. The difference in boiling water shrinkage between the fiber A and the fiber B must be 5% or more, and preferably 10% or more. If the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the fiber A and the fiber B is less than 5%, the slackness of the fiber A caused by the difference in boiling water shrinkage after shrinking is reduced, and the resulting fabric has a swelling feeling and a lightweight feeling. Is reduced, which is not preferable.
As a method of imparting a difference in boiling water shrinkage to the fibers A and B, after obtaining an unstretched composite variant polyester fiber,
A general method is to change the stretching conditions such as the stretching ratio and the stretching temperature when stretching. The boiling water shrinkage of the fibers A and B is measured by the following method. That is, fix one end of the yarn and hang it at the other end with a load of 1/10 (g / d) of the yarn as the initial load, measure the intervals of 500 mm correctly and mark both ends, and take the initial load. , After soaking it in boiling water for 30 minutes, take it out and lightly wipe off the water with a paper or cloth,
After naturally drying in a horizontal state, the initial load is applied again to measure the length lmm between the both ends, and the shrinkage rate of boiling water is calculated by the following formula.
This formula is as follows: Boiling water shrinkage (%) = [(500-l) / 500] x
Is 100.

Further, the latent crimpable complex type atypical polyester fiber A constituting the polyester asymmetric shrinkage mixed yarn is
It has crimping performance as shown below. That is, 30 boiling water
It has crimping performance such that the crimping ratio after the minute treatment is 15% or more. On the other hand, the latent crimping complex type heterotypic polyester fiber B, which is another fiber constituting the polyester-based hetero-shrink mixed filament yarn, is crimped such that the crimping rate after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is 20% or more. Has performance. Therefore, fiber A and fiber B
May have the same crimp ratio, and the fiber B
In some cases, the crimp ratio of the fiber is larger than that of the fiber A. Since the crimp rate has a certain degree of correlation with the boiling water shrinkage rate, generally, the fiber B having a higher boiling water shrinkage rate also has a higher crimp rate. Here, the crimping rate after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes is measured by the following method. That is, the fiber A or B squeezed 5 times with a measuring machine is left for 30 minutes with a load of 1/6000 (g / D) applied, and then placed in boiling water for 30 minutes while maintaining this state. To process. Then air dry for 30 minutes,
A load of 1/500 (g / D) is applied and the length (b) is measured. Next, after removing the load of 1/500 (g / D), a load of 1/20 (g / D) is applied and the length (c) is measured. Then, the crimp ratio is calculated by the following formula. That is, crimp ratio (%)
= [(C-b) / c] × 100. In the present invention,
If the crimping rate of the fiber A after the boiling water treatment for 30 minutes is less than 15%, or if the crimping rate of the fiber B after the boiling water treatment for 30 minutes is less than 20%, the yarn after the crimping appears The extensibility is poor, and thus the resulting fabric is also poor in extensibility, making it difficult to impart good stretchability to the fabric.

The latent crimpable composite type atypical polyester fibers A and B described above have a trilobal cross section and satisfy the atypical degree P expressed by the following equation. This formula is 1.5 ≦
P ≦ 3.0 [where P represents the ratio of the diameter of the circumscribed circle to the inscribed circle of the trilobal shape] ]. As a specific example of the trilobal shape, the shapes shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 are adopted. In the figure, 3 is the circumscribed circle of the trilobal cross section, and φ ₁ is the diameter of this circumscribed circle. And, 4 is the inscribed circle of the trilobal cross section, and φ ₂ is the diameter of this inscribed circle. Therefore, P
= Φ ₁ / φ ₂ and the value of P is in the range of 1.5 to 3.0. If the degree of irregularity P is less than 1.5, the gloss and feel of the resulting stretchable fabric will not be silky, which is not preferable. On the other hand, if the degree of irregularity P is larger than 3.0, it becomes difficult to give the desired crimping ratio to the fibers A and B, and the fibers A and B are easily fluffed during weaving, which is not preferable. In the present invention, it is more preferable that the degree of variant P be in the range of 1.5 to 2.5.

[0011] The latent crimpable composite type atypical polyester fibers A and B are composite type fibers obtained by combining a first component and a second component having a hot water shrinkage different from that of the first component. . The combination method must be such that the fibers are crimped in a spiral shape or the like due to the difference in hot water shrinkage between the first component and the second component. That is, it is necessary to impart crimp performance to the fibers A and B. Specific examples of such fibers A and B will be described below with reference to FIGS. 1 to 3. That is, a polyester-based first component 1 having a low intrinsic viscosity [η] (portion shown in white in the figure ... a low-shrinking component) and a polyester-based second component 2 having high intrinsic viscosity (portion shown by a diagonal line in the figure) A highly-shrinkable component) is used to form a polyester fiber having an irregular cross section joined in a side-by-side type. Especially, the intrinsic viscosity [η] is 0.
Polyester type second component 2 of 70 or more and intrinsic viscosity [η]
A polyester fiber having a modified cross-section in which the first component 1 having a ratio of 0.60 or less is joined in a side-by-side type can be suitably used. The polyester-based second component 2 having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.70 or more uses, for example, a polymer in which 85 mol% or more of the structural unit is polyethylene terephthalate and the other 15 mol% or less is another polyester. Obtainable.
The first component 1 having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.60 or less can be obtained by using, for example, a polymer in which 95 mol% of structural units are polyethylene terephthalate. The intrinsic viscosity [η] here is measured in a solvent of equal weight mixture of phenol and tetrachloroethane at 20 ° C.

The different shrinkage mixed filament yarn formed of the latently crimpable composite atypical polyester fiber A and the latently crimpable composite atypical polyester fiber B has a twist coefficient K represented by the following formula of 1000.
It is less than 0. This formula is T = K (1 / D ^1/2 ).
[However, T represents the number of twists per 1 m of yarn length, and D
Represents the denier of the yarn. ]. Therefore, the different-shrinkage mixed-fiber yarn is non-twisted or has relatively little twist (sweet twist). When the twist coefficient of the differently shrinkage mixed filament yarn is 10,000 or more, shrinkage and crimp are less likely to occur in the fibers A and B in the subsequent dyeing and finishing step, which is not preferable.

On the other hand, the polyester-based strongly twisted yarn used in the present invention is twisted in a twist coefficient K in the range of 10,000 to 25,000. Here, the twist coefficient K is the above T = K (1 /
Is represented by D ^1/2). When the twisting coefficient K is less than 10,000, a difference in shrinkage of the polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn is less likely to occur, and a woven fabric excellent in swelling feeling, tension and waist feeling cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the twist coefficient K exceeds 25,000, the texture of the hard twist yarn is hardened,
This is not preferable because weavability is significantly reduced by the generation of snare. Furthermore, it is preferable that the strongly twisted yarn is heat set after being twisted. If heat setting is not performed, the strongly twisted yarns are entangled with each other due to the development of torque in the weaving process, and the weavability tends to be deteriorated. The heat setting is preferably performed under the conditions of a temperature of 80 to 85 ° C. and a time of 30 to 45 minutes. Various conventionally known polyester fibers are used as the polyester fibers constituting the polyester strongly twisted yarn. Alternatively, a latently crimped composite type atypical polyester fiber that constitutes a polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn may be used to obtain a polyester-based strongly twisted yarn.

A woven fabric is woven by using the polyester-based different-shrinkage mixed filament yarn and the polyester-based strongly twisted yarn described above, and using one of them as a warp and the other as a weft. For example,
When a polyester-based different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is used as the warp, a strongly twisted yarn is used as a weft, and when a polyester different shrinkage mixed fiber yarn is used as the weft, a strongly twisted yarn is used as a warp. is there. Any conventionally known woven structure can be adopted as the woven structure.

The woven fabric thus obtained is subjected to alkali reduction treatment. For the alkali reduction treatment, a conventionally known method can be appropriately adopted. Further, it is desirable to perform relaxing scouring and, if necessary, presetting before the alkali weight reduction treatment. In the case of a woven fabric composed of multifilament yarns, a washer or the like is generally used during the relaxation treatment. In this alkali weight loss treatment, the weight loss rate of the fabric is set to 5 to 40%. When the weight reduction rate is less than 5%, between the latent crimpable composite type irregular type polyester fibers A and A constituting the polyester type irregular shrinkage mixed filament yarn,
Sufficient voids are not formed between A and B and between B and B, and latent crimping complex type heteropolyester fibers A, A each other, between A, B and B, B They interfere with each other and cannot exhibit sufficient crimping performance, which is not preferable. In addition, if the weight loss rate exceeds 40%, the resulting woven fabric will have a reduced bulging feel and tension and waist, and at the same time will have reduced strength, which is not practical.

After the alkali weight reduction treatment, a dyeing finishing process is performed. The dyeing / finishing process may be performed under conventionally known general conditions. However, at the time of dyeing and finishing, a temperature of at least 100 ° C wet heat must be applied to the woven fabric. That is, the latently crimpable complex type atypical polyester fibers A and B constituting the polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn used in the present invention show a predetermined crimping rate after the treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes. Therefore, unless the temperature of moist heat of 100 ° C. or higher is applied to the woven fabric, the fibers A and B are not sufficiently crimped, and the fibers A and B cannot be given a predetermined crimping rate. Furthermore, since the latent crimping complex type atypical polyester fibers A and B show a difference in shrinkage due to the treatment with boiling water, it is necessary to impart a wet heat temperature of 100 ° C. or more to the woven fabric. Especially, the temperature of moist heat of 100 ℃ or higher is 3
It is preferably applied to the fabric over a period of 0 minutes or longer. Further, this dyeing and finishing process is preferably carried out using a jet dyeing machine or the like with a tension as low as possible. This is because if high tension is applied to the woven fabric, the development of crimps and the development of shrinkage may be inhibited, or the developed crimps may disappear. It should be noted that it is also preferable to add an elastic agent or the like to the woven fabric to improve the quality of the woven fabric at the time of finishing, as long as the physical properties, feel, fastness and the like of the woven fabric are not adversely affected.

[0017]

【Example】

Example 1 A polyester-based second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.76 (polyester consisting of 12 mol% of isophthalic acid component, 88 mol% of a terephthalic acid component and a diol component such as diethylene glycol) and an intrinsic viscosity of [η] 0.69. Using a polyester-based first component, a melt-composite spinning method has a trilobal cross-section as shown in FIG. 1, and the polyester-based first component and the polyester-based second component are joined in a side-by-side manner. A stretched fiber (unstretched filament) was obtained.
Using this unstretched fiber, the stretching ratio and the stretching temperature were changed to obtain the following two types of fibers. That is, a latent crimpable composite type atypical polyester fiber A having a boiling water shrinkage of 8.7%, a crimping ratio of 17.7%, and a degree of atypicalness P of 2.1, and a boiling water shrinkage of 41
%, The crimping ratio was 25.0%, and the degree of atypicalness P was 2.1 to obtain latently crimpable composite atypical polyester fiber B. And fiber A
And fiber B are bundled with 18 filaments each, and 75
A polyester-based differential shrinkage mixed filament yarn of denier / 36 filament was obtained. This polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn was prepared as a warp without twisting.

On the other hand, a strongly twisted yarn obtained by applying a twist number of 2500 T / M (twisting coefficient K of 21650) to the polyester-based differently shrinkage mixed yarn yarn was prepared as a weft yarn. Then, the fabric was woven to obtain a warp density of 110 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 80 yarns / inch. This woven fabric is Andon-wrapped and used with a carrier of 1 g / l at a temperature of 100 ° C for 2 hours with a rotary washer.
Relaxation treatment was performed under the condition of 0 minutes. Then, using a solution in which caustic soda 1 g / l and a surfactant 1 g / l are used in combination, with a circular jet dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd., scouring is performed under conditions of a wet heat of 80 ° C. and a time of 20 minutes,
Dried. Then, with a tenter manufactured by Ichikin Kogyo Co., Ltd., without applying tension to both the warp and the weft, dry heat at 180 ° C for 20 hours.
Heat setting was performed under the condition of second. Next, alkali weight reduction treatment by the twisting method was applied to this woven fabric for 25.4.
% Reduced.

Thereafter, a disperse dye solution having the following composition was used,
Using a circular jet dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho Co., Ltd., dyeing was performed under the conditions of a heat of humidity of 130 ° C. and a time of 30 minutes. Note Dianix Navyblue BG-SE (Mitsubishi Kasei Co., Ltd. disperse dye) 3.0% owf Sun Salt RZ-8 (Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd. leveling agent) 0.5 g / l Acetic acid (48%) 0.2 cc / l -70 (one-bath reducing detergent manufactured by Yatasha Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) 5g / l, wet heat at 80 ° C for 2 hours
After reducing and washing under the condition of 0 minutes, it was dried. Then, using a heat setter manufactured by Ichikin Kogyo Co., Ltd., finish setting was performed under conditions of dry heat 170 ° C. and time 20 seconds without applying tension on both the background and the plain dyeing stretchable fabric. The stretch rate and the stretch recovery rate of this stretchable woven fabric are as shown in Table 1, and showed good stretchability. In addition, as shown in Table 1, a good swelling feeling, a dry feeling, and gloss were exhibited, and the appearance and texture were also good.

[0020]

[Table 1] The measuring methods for the items described in Table 1 are as follows. [Elongation rate (%)]: Based on JIS L-1018, a load of 1.5 kg was applied for measurement. The elongation rate was measured in the warp direction. [Elongation recovery rate (%)]: JIS L-1018 for a sample of length l ₀
Apply a 1.5kg load according to the law. And the growth rate of 80
The length of the sample is measured by extending to%, and this length is designated as l ₁ . In the stretched state, leave for 1 minute, then remove the weight and leave for 3 minutes. Then, the length of the sample is measured, and the length is set to l ₂ . Using the lengths l ₀ , l ₁ and l ₂ of the samples measured above, the elongation recovery rate is calculated by the following equation. Elongation recovery rate = [(l ₁ −l ₂ ) / (l ₁ −l ₀ )] × 100. The elongation recovery rate was also measured in the longitudinal direction. [Swelling feeling]: A woven fabric (reference woven fabric) obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the strongly twisted yarn used in Example 1 was used as the warp and weft, It was judged as follows. ⊚: extremely superior to the reference woven fabric, ∘: superior to the reference woven fabric, Δ: comparable to the reference woven fabric, ×: slightly inferior to the reference woven fabric [Dry feeling]: A standard woven fabric was used, and a sensory test was performed to judge as follows. ⊚: equivalent to the reference woven fabric, ∘: slightly inferior to the reference woven fabric, Δ: considerably inferior to the reference woven fabric, ×: extremely inferior to the reference woven fabric. [Gloss]: A standard woven fabric was used, and the sensory evaluation was performed as follows. ⊚: equivalent to the reference woven fabric, ∘: slightly inferior to the reference woven fabric, Δ: considerably inferior to the reference woven fabric.

Example 2 In place of the strongly twisted yarn used in Example 1, a regular polyester multifilament yarn (75 denier / 36 filaments) with a twist number of 2500 T / M (twist coefficient K of 21650) was applied. A plain dyeable stretchable fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the strip was used. The stretch rate and the stretch recovery rate of this stretchable woven fabric are as shown in Table 1, and showed good stretchability. Further, as shown in Table 1, it had a good swelling feeling, and the dry feeling and gloss were almost good.

Comparative Example 1 Instead of the latently crimpable composite polyester fibers A and B having the irregular cross section used in Example 1, a circular cross section (degree of irregularity P =
Example 1 except that the latent crimpable composite type polyester fibers a and b in which the polyester-based first component and the polyester-based second component used in Example 1 are joined in a side-by-side type are used in 1). A stretchable fabric was obtained in the same manner as in. The boiling water shrinkage of the latently crimpable composite polyester fiber a used in Comparative Example 1 was 8.6%, and the crimping ratio was 35%. The latent crimpable composite polyester fiber b had a boiling water shrinkage of 40% and a crimping ratio of 43%. The elongation rate and the like of the woven fabric obtained by the above method are as shown in Table 1, and although the stretchability and the swelling feeling were good, the dry feeling and gloss were inferior.

Comparative Example 2 75 denier / 36 filaments composed only of latently crimpable complex type modified polyester fiber B used in Example 1 in place of the polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn used in Example 1 A stretchable woven fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the non-twisted multifilament yarn was used. The elongation rate and the like of this woven fabric are as shown in Table 1 and were inferior in extensibility and swelling feeling.

Comparative Example 3 The same as Example 1 except that the polyester type second component having an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 0.69 and the polyester type first component having an intrinsic viscosity of [η] 0.59 were used. Method of latent crimping composite type atypical polyester fiber A '
And latently crimpable composite type atypical polyester fiber B '. Fiber A'has a boiling water shrinkage of 8% and a crimp rate of 12%,
The degree of variant P was 1.8. Further, the boiling water shrinkage rate of the fiber B ′ was 18%, the crimp rate was 18%, and the degree of irregularity P was 1.8.
Then, each of the fibers A ′ and the fibers B ′ was mixed and bundled into 18 filaments to obtain a polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn of 75 denier / 36 filaments. This polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn was prepared as a warp without twisting.

Then, from weft preparation to dyeing and finishing,
A plain dyeable stretchable fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1. Table 1 shows the stretch ratio, stretch recovery ratio, and bulge of this stretchable fabric.
And the stretchability was inferior to that of the stretchable fabric according to Example 1.

Comparative Example 4 A woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the regular polyester multifilament yarn used in Example 2 was used as the weft yarn instead of the strongly twisted yarn used in Example 1. Obtained. As shown in Table 1, this woven fabric was inferior to the stretchable woven fabric according to Example 1 in terms of extensibility, swelling feeling and gloss.

[0027]

As described above, the method for producing a stretchable woven fabric according to the present invention is a latent crimpable composite polyester having a cross-section of which has a specific degree of irregularity and a specific crimping rate. A non-twisted or sweet-twisted polyester different shrinkage mixed filament yarn composed of the system fibers A and B and a strongly twisted polyester yarn are used to weave a woven fabric with one warp and the other weft, and then latent It is a method of causing the crimpable composite polyester fibers A and B to exhibit the crimping performance. Therefore, since the composite polyester fiber constituting the woven fabric exhibits a high crimping rate, and the strongly twisted yarn hardly hinders the developed crimping performance, the fully developed crimping allows the woven fabric to have a high crimping rate. It has the effects of exhibiting extensibility and high elongation recovery and being excellent in stretchability. Furthermore, the cross section of the latently crimpable composite type polyester fibers A and B used has a trilobal shape with a certain degree of irregularity, and the elastic fabric obtained has a good dry feeling and gloss. It has the effect of exhibiting a silky texture.

Further, in the present invention, an important point is that the woven fabric is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment before the crimping is manifested. By this treatment, the woven fabric has a good feel, and the latent crimpable composite type irregular type polyester fibers A, A, A, B and B, B in the polyester type different shrinkage mixed yarn Fine voids are formed. Therefore, due to the presence of the voids, crimps are well expressed when the crimps are expressed. That is, the presence of the voids makes it difficult for adjacent latent crimpable composite type atypical polyester fibers to be bound to each other when the crimps appear. Therefore, the two types of latent crimping composite type atypical polyester fibers A and B can be sufficiently exerted without impairing the crimping performance.
It is possible to provide the resulting woven fabric with high elongation and high elongation recovery.

In the method for producing a stretchable woven fabric according to the present invention, a polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn is used as a warp or a weft, and a strongly twisted polyester yarn is used as a weft or a warp. The woven fabric is contracted and crimped. Therefore, a strongly twisted yarn in which a strong twist is imparted between the fibers is unlikely to cause contraction and crimp expression, and a polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed yarn yarn selectively causes contraction and crimp expression. Therefore, the slack is generated in the strongly twisted yarn, and the resulting stretchable fabric is provided with a feeling of swelling and lightness. In addition, since there are strong twisted yarns in which the occurrence of crimps does not occur so much in the stretchable fabric, it is possible to obtain an effect of being excellent in tension and waist feeling.

Further, the polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn used in the present invention is a latent shrinkable composite type atypical polyester fiber A having a low shrinkage and a high shrinkage, which has a boiling water shrinkage of 5% or more. It is composed of a shrinkable composite type atypical polyester fiber B. Therefore, when shrinkage is caused in the polyester-based heterogeneous-shrink mixed filament yarn together with crimping, the fiber A has a low shrinkage ratio.
Becomes longer than the fiber B, and the fiber A is "slack". Therefore, the resulting stretchable woven fabric has the effect of being further imparted with a feeling of swelling and a feeling of lightweight.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a view showing an example of a cross section of a latently crimpable composite polyester fiber A or B used in the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a diagram showing an example of a cross section of latently crimpable composite polyester fiber A or B used in the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a diagram showing an example of a cross section of latently crimpable composite polyester fiber A or B used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

3 Trilobal circumscribed circle 4 Trilobal inscribed circle φ ₁ Outer circle diameter φ ₂ Inscribed circle diameter

Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁵ Identification number Office reference number FI technical display location D03D 15/04 102 A 7199-3B D06C 29/00 Z // D06M 101: 32

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A trilobal shape whose cross section satisfies a degree of variation P shown by the following formula (1), and has a crimp ratio of 15% after treated with boiling water for 30 minutes.
A latent crimping complex type atypical polyester fiber A having the above crimping performance, and a three-lobe shape having a cross section satisfying the degree of atypicality P shown by the following formula (1), and crimping after treatment with boiling water for 30 minutes. Rate 20
% And a latent crimpable composite type heteropolyester fiber B having a boiling water shrinkage of 5% or more higher than that of the fiber A, and are represented by the following formula (2). A polyester-based heterogeneous shrinkage mixed filament yarn having a twist coefficient K of less than 10,000 and a polyester-based strongly twisted yarn having a twist coefficient K of 10,000 to 25,000 shown by the following formula (2) are used, and one of the yarns is used as a warp. Weaving a woven fabric using the other yarn as a weft yarn, and then subjecting the woven fabric to an alkali weight reduction treatment to reduce the woven fabric by 5 to 40%, and then dyeing and finishing the woven fabric under a condition that a temperature of 100 ° C. or more in moist heat is applied. A process for producing a stretchable woven fabric, which comprises subjecting a latent crimpable complex type atypical polyester fiber A and B constituting the woven fabric to shrinking and crimping at the same time. Note 1.5 ≤ P ≤ 3.0 (1) [However, P represents the ratio of the diameters of the circumscribed circle and the inscribed circle of the trilobal shape. ] T = K (1 / D ^1/2 ) ... (2) [where T is the length of the yarn
It represents the number of twists per 1 m, and D represents the denier of the yarn. ]