JP2002004145A - Woven or knitted fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide an organdy-toned woven or knitted fabric having an excellent stretching property and soft feeling which are not attained from the conventional false twist monofilament, by using a PTT-conjugate monofilament yarn. SOLUTION: The woven or knitted fabric is produced by using a conjugate monofilament yarn produced by sticking polyester polymers to each other along the longitudinal direction of the fibers in a side-by-side state. The polyester polymers are different from each other, and one of them is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric using a conjugated monofilament yarn (hereinafter, these are sometimes collectively referred to as a woven or knitted fabric).

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, monofilament yarns in synthetic filaments have been widely used for thin fabrics mainly composed of polyester and mainly composed of organdy.
In addition, monofilament yarn and its woven fabric have established an important position as a fashion material in a fashion trend in which a sense of scalp and layering are required. However, in recent years, with the addition of stretch performance to the fabric characteristics being standardized, there has been a demand for organdy fabrics. Hitherto, as a means for imparting stretch to an organdy fabric, a method of using a false twisted monofilament yarn obtained by subjecting a multifilament raw yarn to false twisting and then dividing the yarn. However, false-twisted monofilament yarns exhibit a crimped shape on the fabric surface due to their inherent crimp characteristics, have a strong coarse-hardness feeling, lack a soft feeling, and have been developed only for limited uses.

[0003] In addition, a false twisting monofilament yarn requires a false twisting step, which results in an investment of a false twisting equipment, a variation in quality, and the like, and also causes an increase in cost.

On the other hand, as a conjugate yarn of a polyamide-based monofilament yarn, a small amount is now being developed for stockings for knitted fabrics utilizing its stretchability and softness. However, there has been no development of conjugated polyamide monofilament yarns for use in woven or knitted fabrics.

[0005]

The present inventors have made intensive studies to solve the above-mentioned conventional problems, and as a result, have reached the present invention.

An object of the present invention is to provide an organdy-like woven or knitted fabric having a large stretch property and a soft texture which cannot be achieved by a conventional false twisted monofilament yarn by using a conjugated monofilament yarn. It is.

[0007]

The present invention employs the following configuration to achieve the above object. That is, weaving is characterized by using a conjugate monofilament yarn in which different polyester-based polymers, one of which is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded in a side-by-side type along the fiber length direction. It is a knit.

The fineness of the conjugate monofilament yarn is preferably 11.1 to 44.4 dtex.

The temperature at which the conjugate monofilament yarn exhibits the maximum shrinkage stress is 110 ° C. or more, and the maximum value of the shrinkage stress is 0.25 cN / dte.
It is preferably at least x.

[0010] Furthermore, the woven or knitted fabric is preferably warp and / or
Alternatively, it is preferable to have a stretch ratio of 5% or more in the weft direction.

[0011]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION A side-by-side type monofilament yarn is formed by laminating polymers having different intrinsic viscosities, copolymerization components, copolymerization ratios, etc., and develops a crimp due to a difference in their elastic recovery characteristics and shrinkage characteristics. Things. In the case of a side-by-side conjugate fiber having an intrinsic viscosity difference, stress is concentrated on the high intrinsic viscosity side during spinning and drawing, so that the internal strain differs between the two components. Therefore, the high-viscosity side largely shrinks due to the difference in elastic recovery rate after stretching and the difference in heat shrinkage rate in the heat treatment step of the woven or knitted fabric, causing distortion within the single fiber to take a form of three-dimensional coil crimp. The diameter of the three-dimensional coil and the number of coils per unit fiber length may be determined by the difference in shrinkage (including the difference in elastic recovery rate) between the high shrinkage component and the low shrinkage component. Is small,
The number of coils per unit fiber length increases.

A coil crimp required as a stretch material has a small coil diameter, a large number of coils per unit fiber length (excellent elongation characteristics, good appearance), and good coil set resistance (expansion and contraction). The set amount of the coil according to the number of times is small, and the stretch retention is excellent), and the hysteresis loss at the time of recovery from extension of the coil is small (excellent elasticity and good fit). By satisfying all of these requirements and having the properties of polyester, such as moderate tension, drapability, and high color fastness, a stretch material excellent in total balance can be obtained.

Here, in order to satisfy the above-mentioned coil characteristics, characteristics of a high shrinkage component (high viscosity component) are important. Since the expansion and contraction characteristics of the coil are dominated by the expansion and contraction characteristics of the high contraction component with the low contraction component as a fulcrum, the polymer used for the high contraction component is required to have high extensibility and recoverability.

The inventors of the present invention have conducted intensive studies to satisfy the above-mentioned properties without impairing the properties of the polyester. As a result, a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PTT) as a high shrinkage component was obtained. Found to be used.

Here, the PTT in the present invention is a polyester obtained by using terephthalic acid as a main acid component and 1,3-propanediol as a main glycol component. However, it may contain a copolymer component capable of forming another ester bond at a ratio of 20 mol%, more preferably 10 mol% or less. Examples of the copolymerizable compound include, for example, isophthalic acid, succinic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, adipic acid, dimeric acid, sebacic acid,
-Dicarboxylic acids such as sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, and diols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butanediol, neopentyl glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, polyethylene glycol, and polypropylene glycol, but are not limited thereto. . If necessary, titanium dioxide as a matting agent, fine particles of silica or alumina as a lubricant, hindered phenol derivatives, coloring pigments and the like as antioxidants may be added.

The low-shrinkage component (low-viscosity component) is not particularly limited as long as it is a fiber-forming polyester having good interfacial adhesion with PTT, which is a high-shrinkage component, and a stable spinning property. However, in consideration of mechanical properties, chemical properties and raw material prices, polyethylene terephthalate (hereinafter abbreviated as PET) having a fiber forming ability is preferable.

The composite ratio of the two components is determined in terms of the spinning properties and the dimensional homogeneity of the coil in the fiber length direction.
Low shrinkage component = 75: 25 to 35:65 (% by weight) is preferable, and 65:35 to 45:55 is more preferable.

The cross-sectional shape of the PTT side-by-side type conjugate fiber used in the present invention may be a round cross section, a triangular cross section, a multi-lobal cross section, a flat cross section, a Dharma cross section, an X cross section or any other irregular cross section. From the balance between expression and hand, a semi-circular side-by-side with a round cross section, a hollow side-by-side for light weight and heat retention, and a side-by-side with a triangular cross section for dry feel are preferably used.

As described above, in order to overcome the cloth restraining force and exhibit coil crimp, it is preferable that the PPT side-by-side type conjugate fiber has a high shrinkage stress. In order to increase the crimp development in the heat treatment step of the fabric, the temperature at which the maximum of the shrinkage stress is preferably 110 ° C. or more,
The maximum value of the contraction stress is preferably 0.25 cN / dtex or more, more preferably the maximum value of the contraction stress is 0.28 cN / dtex or more, and still more preferably 0.3 or more.
0 cN / dtex or more.

The shrinkage stress was measured with a thermal stress meter manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd. at a heating rate of 150 ° C./min. The sample was a loop of 10 cm × 2, and the initial tension was fineness (dtex [decitex]) × 0.9 × (1
/ 30) gf.

As the drawn yarn, the fineness of the PTT conjugate monofilament yarn is 11.1 to 44.4 dtex.
Is preferred, and more preferably 16.5-33.3 dte.
x. In the region thinner than 11.1 dtex, the properties as a monofilament yarn cannot often be exhibited, and the handling in the weaving and weaving process is so sophisticated that it is difficult to develop it for use in clothing. Also, 44.4 dte
If it is larger than x, the bending stiffness becomes too strong, and even when it is made into a fabric, it has a rugged form, which is unsuitable for use in clothing, which is not preferable.

The smaller the elongation characteristic of the PTT conjugate monofilament yarn of the present invention, the better.
It is preferably at most 35%, more preferably at most 30%, even more preferably at least 27%.

Next, as a method for obtaining a stretched PTT conjugate monofilament yarn, there is no problem if the fiber separation technique employed in the conventional PET monofilament yarn is applied. Specifically, 111 dte as the original yarn
An X-5 filament PTT conjugation multifilament yarn is spun-drawn to make a drawn yarn wound on a pirn or a drum, and then set on a separating machine to be separated into a 22.2 dtex monofilament yarn. And roll it up in a pan. Here, the winding shape of the drawn yarn of the original yarn is preferably a drum winding that can be rotated and unwound without generating unwinding, in order to improve the separability in the subsequent process. Also,
Non-entangled yarn is preferred for the base yarn.

The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized by having a stretch ratio of 5% or more in the warp and / or weft directions. If the stretch ratio is 5% or less, it is not preferable because a comfortable feeling when worn as a functional fabric cannot be obtained.
Preferably, the stretch ratio is 10% or more.

The stretch ratio (%) is determined by the following method.

Stretch rate (%) = [(L1−L) / L] × 100 where L: gripping distance (mm) L1: gripping distance when stretched to 1.8 kg (m
m) The PTT conjugate monofilament yarn according to the present invention is suitably used as a warp and / or weft of a woven fabric, a stitch supply yarn, an insertion yarn, and a back yarn of a knit. In the manufacturing process of the woven or knitted fabric, the process conditions of a generally used monofilament yarn may be applied. The model of the weaving machine is not particularly limited.

The fabric structure and density are selected depending on the required texture, and are not limited. However, in order to sufficiently exhibit the effect of crimping in the dyeing process,
It is better to set it to a sweeter eye than usual. In this case, it is preferable to set the density of the greige machine so that the density of the greige machine is different from that of the fabric structure, and the density of the woven fabric after dyeing is not less than a level that does not cause misalignment when sewn and worn. Specific textile structures to be applied include plain, twill, satin textures and their variations. Examples of the knitted structure include a warp knit denbi, an atlas, a half structure and its changed structure, and a circular knitted sheet, rubber, a double-sided structure and its changed structure, and the like.

The woven greige can then be processed in the usual polyester fabric dyeing process and conditions. Specifically, as a standard dyeing process, scouring and relaxing (for example, 60 to 10 in the form of spread such as Softer m / c)
0 ° C), preset (dry heat 170-200 ° C), alkali reduction (N reduction 0-20%), dyeing (liquid jet dyeing machine 130
~ 135 ° C), shrink surfer (overfeed relax), and finishing set (150-180 ° C)
It is.

In the present invention, however, it is important that the crimping of the PTT conjugate monofilament yarn is sufficiently performed as a processing condition, and attention should be paid to the setting of the relaxing condition. That is, in order to express the crimp in the dyeing process, it is important to sufficiently exhibit the crimp expression ability of the original yarn such as the shrinkage stress of the original yarn and the number of expressed crimps. It is preferable to develop crimps in advance by wet heat treatment in the scouring / relaxation step. Specifically, it is most preferable to carry out a relaxing heat treatment with moist heat of 100 ° C. or more to sufficiently crimp, and then carry out alkali weight loss and dyeing.

In order to impart soft resilience to the thin fabric, it is preferable to carry out the above-mentioned alkali weight reduction treatment. After relaxing and presetting, test and decide on different weight loss rates. In addition, for dyeing, by using a liquid jet dyeing machine, the rubbing effect can be enhanced, and the crimp expression can be enhanced.

[0031]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described below more specifically based on examples.

Example 1 Intrinsic viscosity (IV) is 1.18
Homo PTT and homo PE having an intrinsic viscosity (IV) of 0.60
T is melted separately, and the mixture is discharged at a spinning temperature of 280 ° C. from a 5-hole composite spinneret at a composite ratio (% by weight) of 50:50, and is taken out at a spinning speed of 1400 m / min.
A 5 filament PTT side-by-side composite undrawn yarn was obtained. Further, using a hot roll-hot plate stretching machine (yarn length: 20 cm, surface roughness: 3S), the film was stretched at a hot roll temperature of 85 ° C., a hot plate temperature of 145 ° C., and a draw ratio of 3.0 times to 111 dtex, 5 d. Filament (filament fineness 2
(2.2dtex) to obtain a drawn yarn of a conjugated multifilament yarn wound with PTT pan. Both spinning and drawing exhibited good spinnability, and no yarn breakage occurred.

The obtained PTT side-by-side type conjugate fiber showed an excellent crimp developing ability with a maximum temperature of shrinkage stress of 130 ° C. and a maximum value of shrinkage stress of 0.33 cN / dtex.

22. The PTT conjugated multifilament yarn is subjected to fiber separation using a twisted fiber separating machine.
A 2dtex PTT conjugated monofilament yarn was obtained.

Next, this PTT conjugated monofilament yarn was used for both the warp and the weft, and an organdy fabric having a flat structure was woven. The density at this time is 96 × 9
It was 3 / in. The obtained greige was dyed as follows. That is, the greige is set to 110 by the liquid flow batch method.
C., heat-treated at 190.degree. C., intermediately heat-set at 190.degree. C. by a pin tenter method, reduced the alkali by 5%, and dyed at 130.degree. Finish anti-density is 101 × 9
7 / in. The obtained organge fabric became rich in soft feeling and stretchability due to the appearance of crimp. The stretch ratio of the obtained woven fabric was 13 in the vertical direction:
%, Landscape orientation: 17%.

(Comparative Example 1)
When 2dtex raw silk polyester monofilament yarn was subjected to the same woven fabric standard and dyeing processing as in Example 1, the soft feeling and the stretchability were insufficient.

(Comparative Example 2) 22.
The 2dtex false-twisted polyester monofilament yarn which had been subjected to the same woven fabric standard and dyeing as in Example 1 had stretchability but had rough surface touch and lacked a soft feeling.

[0038]

According to the present invention, the use of PTT conjugated monofilament yarn makes it possible to rationalize the cost and to obtain a thin fabric having a soft feeling and a stretch property at a low cost.

Continued on the front page F-term (reference) 4L002 AA07 AB02 AB05 AC01 AC07 DA01 EA06 FA01 4L041 AA07 BA02 BA05 BA09 BA46 BA60 BC20 BD14 CA06 CA08 DD01 DD04 DD10 DD15 EE15 4L048 AA22 AA30 AA34 AA44 AA47 AA55 AB10 AB11 CA01 DA02 EB05

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A conjugate monofilament yarn in which different polyester polymers, one of which is a polyester mainly composed of polytrimethylene terephthalate, are bonded in a side-by-side type along a fiber length direction. Weaving and knitting. 2. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the conjugate monofilament yarn has a fineness of 11.1 to 44.4 dtex. 3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the temperature at which the conjugate monofilament yarn exhibits the maximum shrinkage stress is 110 ° C. or more, and the maximum value of the shrinkage stress is 0.25 cN / dtex or more. 3. The woven or knitted fabric according to 2. 4. The woven or knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven or knitted fabric has a stretch ratio of 5% or more in the warp and / or weft directions.