KR101977060B1 - Method Of Manufacturing Coposite yarn Fabrics Having Good Elasticity And Touchness - Google Patents
Method Of Manufacturing Coposite yarn Fabrics Having Good Elasticity And Touchness Download PDFInfo
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- KR101977060B1 KR101977060B1 KR1020170092556A KR20170092556A KR101977060B1 KR 101977060 B1 KR101977060 B1 KR 101977060B1 KR 1020170092556 A KR1020170092556 A KR 1020170092556A KR 20170092556 A KR20170092556 A KR 20170092556A KR 101977060 B1 KR101977060 B1 KR 101977060B1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
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- D03D15/08—
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
- D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
- D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
- D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
- D06C7/02—Setting
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Abstract
본 발명은 스판덱스섬유를 사용하지 않아도 우수한 신축성을 나타낼 수 있게 되며, 텐셀의 실크같이 부드러운 촉감과 면보다 뛰어난 흡수성 그리고 강한 내구성 등의 우수한 물성을 가지는 원단을 제공하는 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention can exhibit excellent stretchability without using spandex fibers, and relates to a method of providing a fabric having excellent physical properties such as silk-like soft touch of tencel, excellent absorbency on the surface and strong durability.
Description
본 발명은 스판덱스섬유를 사용하지 않아도 우수한 신축성을 나타낼 수 있게 되며, 텐셀의 실크같이 부드러운 촉감과 면보다 뛰어난 흡수성 그리고 강한 내구성 등의 우수한 물성을 가지는 원단을 제공하는 방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention can exhibit excellent stretchability without using spandex fibers, and relates to a method of providing a fabric having excellent physical properties such as silk-like soft touch of tencel, excellent absorbency on the surface and strong durability.
기존의 방적사를 사용한 직편물제품에 기능성을 부여하기 위해서는 소재의 변화 또는 가공에서 기능성 부여를 통한 제품개발이 주를 이루었으며, 특히 신축성과 관련하여서는 주로 스판덱스 커버링얀을 사용한 신축성직물의 제조가 주를 이루어왔다.In order to impart functionalities to knitted products using conventional yarns, the development of products through imparting functionality in the change or processing of the materials has been mainly made. Especially, in relation to the elasticity, the manufacture of stretchable fabrics mainly using spandex covering yarn .
그러나 스판덱스를 함유한 직물은 중량감, 염색불량, 터치감저하 및 견뢰도문제를 안고 있어 이의 해결책이 요구되어 연구가 지속되고 있지만 뛰어난 신축성으로 인해 그 사용량이 지속적으로 증가하고 있으므로 이를 대체하기 위한 소재의 개발이 요구되는 실정이다.However, spandex-containing fabrics suffer from the problems of weight, stain resistance, touch sensitivity, and fastness, and their solutions have been demanded. However, since the use of spandex has been continuously increased due to excellent stretchability, development of materials Is required.
한편, 친환경소재로서 최근 각광을 받고 있는 텐셀단섬유는 유칼립투스에서 얻은 100% 천연 펄프를 원료로 하여 생산된 셀룰로오스계섬유로서, 실크같이 부드러운 촉감과 면보다 뛰어난 흡수성 그리고 강한 내구성 등의 특징이 있으며, 친환경적이면서 99.9%의 항균성을 가지며, 높은 건·습강도, 형태안전성 등 여러 장점을 가지고 있다.On the other hand, Tencel staple fibers, which are recently attracting attention as eco-friendly materials, are cellulosic fibers produced from 100% natural pulp obtained from eucalyptus. They have soft touch like silk, excellent absorbency and strong durability. It has 99.9% antibacterial activity, and has many advantages such as high dryness, wet strength, and shape safety.
텐셀 섬유의 구체적인 예로는, 시판 리오셀계 섬유로서 렌징사의 TENCEL, 한일합섬의 코셀, Zimmer사의 Alceru, Akzo사와 아사히사의 Newcell 등을 포함한다. 또한 리오셀 섬유의 피브릴레이션을 억제한 렌징사 텐셀 A-100, 텐셀스탠다드, 텐셀 LF 등도 포함된다. 이러한 텐셀 섬유는 일반적으로 니트용으로 사용되고 있으며 에어제트 제직시 바람에 날려 위사로 사용하여 제직하기 어려운 문제를 안고 있었다. Specific examples of the tencel fiber include TENCEL of Lenzing Co., Koseel of Korea-Japan Synthetic Fiber, Alceru of Zimmer, Akzo of New Zealand, and Newcell of Asahi Co., It also includes Lenzing Satelcel A-100, TENCEL STANDARD and TENCEL LF, which suppress the fibrous relation of the lyocell fiber. These tencel fibers are generally used for knitting, and they have a problem that it is difficult to weave them by using them as wind-blown weft yarns when weaving air jets.
그러므로 본 발명에서는 텐셀단독으로 위사로 공급하는 경우의 문제점을 해결하면서도 스판덱스섬유를 사용하지 않아도 우수한 신축성을 나타낼 수 있게 되며, 텐셀의 실크같이 부드러운 촉감과 면보다 뛰어난 흡수성 그리고 강한 내구성 등의 우수한 물성을 가지는 원단을 제공하는 것을 기술적과제로 한다.Therefore, in the present invention, it is possible to exhibit excellent stretchability without using spandex fibers while solving the problem of supplying the tencel by weft alone, and it is possible to provide a fabric having excellent properties such as soft touch like silk of tencel, It is a technical task to provide a fabric.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 경사로서 면방적사를 사용하고,Therefore, according to the present invention, surface yarns are used as warp yarns,
위사로서 텐셀/자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유 혼방사를 사용하여 에어젯트 직기에서 600~700RPM으로 메인에어압 4.5~5.5㎏, 서브노즐 압 2.45~2.60㎏ 조건으로 옥스퍼드 조직으로 제직한후, rapid에서 60℃ 2.5KG 압력의 조건으로 염색하고, 180~190℃에서 분당 40~50M 속도의 조건으로 열셋팅한 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 및 터치감이 우수한 복합 방적사원단의 제조방법이 제공된다.As a weft, the weft yarn was woven into an Oxford fabric under the condition of a main air pressure of 4.5 to 5.5 kg and a subnozzle pressure of 2.45 to 2.60 kg at 600 to 700 RPM in an air jet loom using a Tencel / spiral crimped polyester multifilament short fiber blend, At a temperature of 60 DEG C under a pressure of 2.5KG, and thermally set at a temperature of 180 to 190 DEG C at a rate of 40 to 50M per minute. The present invention provides a method for producing a composite yarn excellent in stretchability and touch feeling.
이하 본 발명을 보다 상세히 설명하기로 한다.Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
본 발명은 스판덱스사를 사용하지 않고도 신축성이 우수하고 천연섬유의 우수한 촉감을 나타낼 수 있는 복합원단의 제조방법에 관한 것이다.The present invention relates to a method of producing a composite fabric which is excellent in stretchability without using spandex yarn and which can exhibit excellent tactile properties of natural fibers.
본 발명은 경사로서 면방적사를 사용하고, 위사로서 텐셀/자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유 혼방사를 사용하여 제직힌 것으로서 위사로서 사용되는 텐셀/자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유 혼방사에 의해 우수한 신축성을 발현하는 것이다. The present invention relates to a tencel / spontaneously crimped polyester-based multifilament short fiber blend which is woven using a cotton yarn as a warp yarn and woven using a Tencel / spontaneously crimped polyester multifilament short staple fiber blend as a weft And exhibits elasticity.
본 발명에서 사용되는 텐셀/자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유 혼방사는텐셀단섬유와 자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유의 혼합방적사로서 링방적사나 에어젯트방적사를 사용할 수 있다. The tencel / spontaneously crimped polyester based composite short fiber blend used in the present invention can be a ring spun yarn or an air jet spun yarn as mixed spun yarns of tencel staple fibers and spontaneously crimped polyester based composite staple fibers.
텐셀단섬유는 유칼립투스에서 얻은 100% 천연 펄프를 원료로 하여 생산된 셀룰로오스계섬유로서, 실크같이 부드러운 촉감과 면보다 뛰어난 흡수성 그리고 강한 내구성 등의 특징이 있으며, 친환경적이면서 99.9%의 항균성을 가지며, 높은 건·습강도, 형태안전성 등 여러 장점을 가지고 있다. Tencel staple fiber is a cellulose-based fiber produced from 100% natural pulp obtained from eucalyptus. It has soft touch like silk, excellent absorbency and strong durability. It is environment-friendly and has antibacterial property of 99.9% · It has various advantages such as wet strength and form safety.
텐셀 섬유의 구체적인 예로는, 시판 리오셀계 섬유로서 렌징사의 TENCEL, 한일합섬의 코셀, Zimmer사의 Alceru, Akzo사와 아사히사의 Newcell 등을 포함한다. 또한 리오셀 섬유의 피브릴레이션을 억제한 렌징사 텐셀 A-100, 텐셀스탠다드, 텐셀 LF 등도 포함된다.Specific examples of the tencel fiber include TENCEL of Lenzing Co., Koseel of Korea-Japan Synthetic Fiber, Alceru of Zimmer, Akzo of New Zealand, and Newcell of Asahi Co., It also includes Lenzing Satelcel A-100, TENCEL STANDARD and TENCEL LF, which suppress the fibrous relation of the lyocell fiber.
이러한 텐셀 섬유는 일반적으로 니트용으로 사용되고 있으며 에어제트 제직시 바람에 날려 위사로 사용하여 제직하기 어렵다. 이에 본 발명에서는 텐셀 섬유와 자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유를 혼방하여 제직시 위사로 사용하여 에어제트 제직시 날림을 방지할 수 있어서 효과적인 제직이 가능하도록 하였다.Such tencel fibers are generally used for knitting, and it is difficult to weave them by using air as a weft yarn when air-jetted. Therefore, in the present invention, the tencel fibers and the spunbonded polyester-based composite staple fibers are blended and used as weft yarns to prevent air bleeding during air jet weaving, thereby enabling effective weaving.
상기 자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유는 제1성분 폴리머 및 제2성분 폴리머로 구성된 사이드 바이 사이드 형태의 폴리에스테르계 복합 단섬유이다. 제1성분 폴리머는 고유점도가 0.96~1.20인 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트(PTT)이고, 제2성분 폴리머는 고유점도가 0.40~0.55인 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트(PET), 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트(PTT) 및 폴리부틸렌테레프탈레이트(PBT) 중 선택된 어느 하나인 것을 사용하여 사이드 바이 사이드 형태로 복합방사한 것이다. The spontaneously highly crimped polyester-based composite staple fiber is a polyester-based composite staple fiber of side-by-side type composed of a first component polymer and a second component polymer. Wherein the first component polymer is PTT having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.96 to 1.20 and the second component polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) and PTT having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.40 to 0.55, And polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), which are combined in a side-by-side form.
상기 자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유는 방사된 미연신 토우를 연신 배향 및 크림프 부여를 통해 제조된 단섬유로 상기 텐셀단섬유와 혼방하여 방적사를 제조한 후 이완 열처리 공정을 통해 미세 권축 발현 거동으로 신축특성을 부여하도록 한 것이다.The spontaneously crimped polyester-based composite staple fiber is produced by spinning a spinning yarn by blending the spinning untreated tow with the tencel staple fiber by using staple fibers produced by stretching orientation and crimping, So that the elasticity is given.
이렇게 위사로서 텐셀/자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유 혼방사를 사용하여 에어젯트 직기에서 600~700RPM으로 메인에어압 4.5~5.5㎏, 서브노즐 압 2.45~2.60㎏ 조건으로 옥스퍼드 조직으로 제직한후, rapid에서 60℃ 2.5KG 압력의 조건으로 염색하고, 180℃에서 분당 40M 속도의 조건으로 열셋팅하게 되면 위사의 자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유부분이 미세 권축 발현 거동으로 신축특성을 부여하게 되어 스판덱스섬유를 사용하지 않아도 우수한 신축성을 나타낼 수 있게 되는 것이다. As the weft, the weft yarn was woven into an Oxford fabric under the condition of a main air pressure of 4.5 to 5.5 kg and a sub nozzle pressure of 2.45 to 2.60 kg at 600 to 700 RPM in an air jet loom using a Tencel / spontaneously crimped polyester multifilament short staple fiber blend, Rapidly dyeing under the conditions of 60 ° C and 2.5KG pressure and heat setting at a rate of 40M / min at 180 ° C., the spontaneous high-cohesive polyester-based composite short fiber portion of the weft imparts stretching properties to the micro- It is possible to exhibit excellent stretchability without using spandex fibers.
그러므로 본 발명에 의하면, 위사의 자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유부분이 미세 권축 발현 거동으로 신축특성을 부여하게 되어 스판덱스섬유를 사용하지 않아도 우수한 신축성을 나타낼 수 있게 되며, 텐셀의 실크같이 부드러운 촉감과 면보다 뛰어난 흡수성 그리고 강한 내구성 등의 우수한 물성을 살리면서도 텐셀단독으로 위사로 공급하는 경우의 문제점을 해결할 수 있는 효과가 있다.Therefore, according to the present invention, the spontaneously crimped polyester-based composite short staple fiber portion of the weft yarn gives a stretchable property due to the behavior of the fine crimp to manifest stretchability without using the spandex fiber, It is possible to solve the problem in the case of supplying the weft yarn as weft yarn while maintaining excellent physical properties such as excellent absorbency and durability.
도 1은 본 발명에 의해 제조된 복합 방적사원단의 표면사진이다.1 is a photograph of a surface of a composite yarn fabric produced by the present invention.
다음의 실시예에서는 본 발명의 신축성 및 터치감이 우수한 복합 방적사원단을 제조하는 비한정적인 예시를 하고 있다.The following examples illustrate non-limiting examples of producing a composite yarn fabric excellent in stretchability and touch feeling of the present invention.
[실시예 1][Example 1]
경사로서 면방적사(40수)를 사용하고, 위사로서 텐셀/자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유 혼방사(50수)를 사용하여 에어젯트 직기에서 600RPM으로 메인에어압 4.5KG, 서브노즐 압 2.45KG 조건으로 옥스퍼드 조직으로 제직한후, rapid에서 60℃ 2.5KG 압력의 조건으로 염색하고, 180℃에서 분당 40M 속도의 조건으로 열셋팅하여 복합원단을 완성하였다. 완성된 원단의 물성을 측정하여 표 1에 나타내었다.(40 number) yarns were used as warp yarns, and Tencel / spontaneously crimped polyester multifilament polyester short fibers (50 yarns) were used as weft yarns in an air jet loom at 600 RPM in main air pressure of 4.5 KG, sub nozzle pressure of 2.45 Kg The fabric was woven into Oxford fabric under the conditions of rapid temperature of 60 ° C and 2.5KG pressure, and heat set at 180 ° C at 40M per minute to complete the composite fabric. The properties of the finished fabric were measured and are shown in Table 1.
오염(면) 4Fading 4 ~ 5, contamination 4 ~ 5,
Pollution (cotton) 4
Claims (2)
위사로서 텐셀/자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유 혼방사를 사용하여 에어젯트 직기에서 600~700RPM으로 메인에어압 4.5~5.5㎏, 서브노즐 압 2.45~2.60㎏ 조건으로 옥스퍼드 조직으로 제직한후, rapid에서 60℃ 2.5KG 압력의 조건으로 염색하고, 180~190℃에서 분당 40~50M 속도의 조건으로 열셋팅한 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 및 터치감이 우수한 복합 방적사원단의 제조방법. Cotton yarns were used as warp yarns,
As a weft, the weft yarn was woven into an Oxford fabric under the condition of a main air pressure of 4.5 to 5.5 kg and a subnozzle pressure of 2.45 to 2.60 kg at 600 to 700 RPM in an air jet loom using a Tencel / spiral crimped polyester multifilament short fiber blend, At a temperature of 60 ° C under a pressure of 2.5KG and thermally set at 180 to 190 ° C at a rate of 40 to 50M per minute.
상기 자발고권축 폴리에스테르계복합단섬유는 제1성분 폴리머 및 제2성분 폴리머로 구성된 사이드 바이 사이드 형태의 폴리에스테르계 복합 단섬유로서 제1성분 폴리머는 고유점도가 0.96~1.20인 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트(PTT)이고, 제2성분 폴리머는 고유점도가 0.40~0.55인 폴리에틸렌테레프탈레이트(PET), 폴리트리메틸렌테레프탈레이트(PTT) 및 폴리부틸렌테레프탈레이트(PBT) 중 선택된 어느 하나인 것을 특징으로 하는 신축성 및 터치감이 우수한 복합 방적사원단의 제조방법. The method according to claim 1,
The spontaneously highly crimped polyester-based composite staple fiber is a side-by-side polyester-based composite staple fiber composed of a first component polymer and a second component polymer. The first component polymer is a polytrimethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.96 to 1.20 (PTT), and the second component polymer is any one selected from polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) and polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.40 to 0.55 Which is excellent in stretchability and touch feeling.
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Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002155449A (en) * | 2000-11-17 | 2002-05-31 | Toray Ind Inc | Woven fabric |
| JP2003336142A (en) * | 2002-05-14 | 2003-11-28 | Asahi Kasei Corp | Woven fabric |
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| WO2013090422A1 (en) | 2011-12-13 | 2013-06-20 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Stretchable and dimensionally stable woven fabric made from polytrimethylene terephthalate based core spun yarns. |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2002155449A (en) * | 2000-11-17 | 2002-05-31 | Toray Ind Inc | Woven fabric |
| JP2003336142A (en) * | 2002-05-14 | 2003-11-28 | Asahi Kasei Corp | Woven fabric |
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