Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a sports coat which is soft to touch and has certain degradation performance, and the invention also aims to provide a manufacturing method of the sports coat.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the utility model provides a soft environmental protection motion jacket of sense of touch, includes the jacket body that forms by the surface fabric concatenation, the surface fabric is including weaving surface course and bottom that the complex is in the same place, and the surface course is interweaved through first yarn and forms, and the bottom interweaves through the second yarn and forms, first yarn includes the polyamide fibre yarn, the second yarn includes polylactic acid fiber yarn.
As a preferable mode of the present invention, the fabric is a knitted fabric, the nylon yarn in the first yarn has a specification of 50D/24F, the nylon yarn is a draw textured yarn, the first yarn further includes a spandex yarn of 20D, the polylactic acid fiber yarn in the second yarn has a specification of 45S/1, the polylactic acid fiber yarn is spun by a short fiber of 1.8dtex × 38mm in specification in a compact siro spinning mode, and the second yarn further includes a spandex yarn of 20D.
As a preferable mode of the invention, the fabric further comprises connecting yarns interwoven on the surface layer and the bottom layer, the connecting yarns are 70D/48F nylon yarns, the nylon yarns are draw textured yarns, and the surface layer and the bottom layer are both weft plain stitch tissues.
As another preferable mode of the present invention, the fabric is a woven fabric, the first yarn and the second yarn are both weft yarns, and the woven fabric further includes warp yarns interwoven with both the first yarn and the second yarn.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the warp yarn and the first yarn are 30D/10F nylon yarn, the nylon yarn is draw textured yarn, the polylactic acid fiber yarn has a specification of 75D/72F, and the polylactic acid fiber yarn is spun from polylactic acid fiber filaments.
In a preferred aspect of the present invention, the first yarn is interwoven with the warp yarn in a plain weave, and the second yarn is interwoven with the warp yarn in a twill weave.
The invention also provides a manufacturing method of the soft-touch environment-friendly sports coat, which splices the fabrics into a coat body, and the manufacturing of the fabrics comprises the following steps,
A. weaving, namely weaving by using a circular knitting machine with an upper dial and a lower needle cylinder, and circularly weaving by using the circular knitting machine to form a grey cloth with a surface layer, a bottom layer and connecting yarns, wherein 3 paths of the grey cloth are one cycle, the 1 st path uses 70D/48F polyamide yarns to weave a 1+1 rib row, the polyamide yarns are draw textured yarns, and the weight of the polyamide yarns is 28% of the weight of the grey cloth; feeding 45S/1 polylactic acid fiber yarns and 20D spandex together in a path 2, wherein the polylactic acid fiber yarns are spun by polylactic acid fiber short fibers, the spandex is below during feeding, the polylactic acid fiber yarns are above, and are knitted by weft plain stitch through an upper dial, the weight of the polylactic acid fiber yarns is 45% of that of the grey cloth, and the weight of the spandex is 4% of that of the grey cloth; in the 3 rd path, 50D/24F polyamide yarns and 20D spandex are fed together, and are knitted by weft plain stitch knitting through a lower needle cylinder, the spandex yarns are on the upper side and on the lower side during feeding, the polyamide yarns are drawn textured yarns, the weight of the polyamide yarns is 21% of that of the grey cloth, and the weight of the spandex is 2% of that of the grey cloth;
B. removing oil, namely removing the oil by an oil removing machine and removing the oil on the grey cloth by falling the cloth in a cylinder to boil;
C. presetting, namely presetting the grey cloth at the presetting temperature of 125 ℃;
D. dyeing nylon by using acid dye, wherein the dyeing temperature is 98 ℃;
E. and (3) neutralization: carrying out middle shaping immediately after the chinlon dyeing is finished, wherein the shaping temperature is 125 ℃;
as a preferable mode of the invention, the step E is followed by a step F, wherein the step F is carried out by dyeing the polylactic acid fiber yarn by using the disperse dye at the dyeing temperature of 108-112 ℃, and the step F is followed by a step G, wherein the step G is finished at the finishing temperature of 125 ℃.
The invention also provides another method for manufacturing the soft-touch environment-friendly sports coat, which splices the fabrics into a coat body, and the manufacturing of the fabrics comprises the following steps,
A. weaving, namely weaving grey cloth by adopting a shuttle weaving device, wherein the warp adopts 30D/10F nylon yarn, the weft comprises first yarn and second yarn, the warp and the first yarn are both 30D/10F nylon yarn, the nylon yarn is draw textured yarn, the second yarn is 75D/72F polylactic acid fiber yarn, the polylactic acid fiber yarn is spun by polylactic acid fiber filament, the warp and the first yarn are vertically interwoven by plain weave to form a surface layer, the warp and the second yarn are interwoven by twill weave to form a bottom layer, the weight of the nylon yarn is 81% of the weight of the grey cloth, and the weight of the polylactic acid fiber yarn is 19% of the weight of the grey cloth;
B. removing oil, namely removing the oil by an oil removing machine and removing the oil on the grey cloth by falling the cloth in a cylinder to boil;
C. presetting, namely presetting the grey cloth at the presetting temperature of 125 ℃;
D. dyeing nylon by using acid dye, wherein the dyeing temperature is 98 ℃;
E. and (3) neutralization: carrying out middle shaping immediately after the chinlon dyeing is finished, wherein the shaping temperature is 125 ℃;
as a preferable mode of the invention, the step E is followed by a step F, wherein the step F is carried out by dyeing the polylactic acid fiber yarn by using the disperse dye at the dyeing temperature of 108-112 ℃, and the step F is followed by a step G, wherein the step G is finished at the finishing temperature of 125 ℃.
By adopting the technical scheme of the invention, the nylon has skin-friendly, cool, light and wear-resistant effects, although the nylon contains more hydrophilic group amide-CONH and more polar group amino-NH2The absorbent can absorb more water to form direct and indirect water absorption, has better hygroscopicity, but has compact fiber structure and less gaps among fibers, only less indirect water absorption becomes capillary water, most water exists on the surface of the fibers to influence air permeability, so that the effects of dampness and tightness are brought, the absorbed water is not easy to volatilize and has poor quick-drying property, the daily wearing experience is damp and stuffy, and the wearer sweats and sticks to the skin when doing sports; the polylactic acid fiber is environment-friendly, skin-friendly, antibacterial and flame-retardant, can be compared favorably with terylene due to the moisture regain of 0.5 percent, does not absorb water or regain moisture, but has a circular cross section, a spot on the surface and a longitudinal existenceIrregular spots and discontinuous stripes, a large number of non-crystalline parts, a large number of gaps among fibers and in the fibers, strong wicking effect, moisture permeability and air permeability far exceeding those of terylene, and comfortable wearing in daily life and sports; therefore, the nylon is used as the surface layer, the polylactic acid fiber is used as the bottom layer, the nylon cover polylactic acid fiber structure is formed, the advantage complementation of the two materials is realized, and the polylactic acid fiber is degradable, so that the sports coat material is more environment-friendly. The invention also provides a manufacturing method of the sports coat, which has the advantages of simple process and convenient material taking.
Detailed Description
In order to further explain the technical scheme of the invention, the following detailed description is combined with the accompanying drawings.
Referring to fig. 1 to 5, the soft-touch environment-friendly sports coat comprises a coat body 10 formed by splicing fabrics, wherein the fabrics comprise a surface layer and a bottom layer which are woven and compounded together, the surface layer is formed by interweaving first yarns 10, the bottom layer is formed by interweaving second yarns 20, the first yarns 10 comprise nylon yarns, and the second yarns 20 comprise polylactic acid fiber yarns.
Because polylactic acid fiber is blended or interwoven with cellulose fiber such as cotton, viscose, modal and the like, alkali is used in dyeing and finishing, and the pH value of polylactic acid is weak acid, acid resistance and alkali resistance, so that the polylactic acid fiber is difficult to spin in matching; when the polyester is blended or interwoven with polyester, the polyester has dark color, especially black color, the dyeing temperature of the polyester can be only reached when the polyester is higher than 125 ℃ and reaches 130 ℃, and the polyester has safe processing temperature higher than 125 ℃ of polylactic acid, so that the hand feeling is obviously hardened and embrittled; when the acid dye is blended or interwoven with chinlon, the dyeing temperature of the acid dye is 95-100 ℃, alkali is rarely used in the dyeing and finishing process, the dyeing and finishing process is relatively proper, and the acid dye and the dyeing and finishing process are relatively proper in matching; therefore, the invention selects the collocation mode of the polylactic acid fiber yarn and the chinlon.
The chinlon has skin-friendly, cool, light and wear-resistant effects, although the chinlon contains more hydrophilic group amide-CONH and more polar group amino-NH2The absorbent can absorb more water to form direct and indirect water absorption, has better hygroscopicity, but has compact fiber structure and less gaps among fibers, only less indirect water absorption becomes capillary water, most water exists on the surface of the fibers to influence air permeability, so that the effects of dampness and tightness are brought, the absorbed water is not easy to volatilize and has poor quick-drying property, the daily wearing experience is damp and stuffy, and the wearer sweats and sticks to the skin when doing sports.
The polylactic acid fiber yarn is environment-friendly, skin-friendly, antibacterial and flame-retardant, can be compared with terylene due to the moisture regain of 0.5%, does not absorb water or regain moisture, but has a circular cross section, specks on the surface, irregular spots and discontinuous stripes longitudinally, a large number of non-crystalline parts, a large number of gaps among fibers and in the fibers, strong wicking effect, moisture permeability and air permeability far superior to those of the terylene, and is comfortable to wear in daily life and sports;
therefore, the invention selects the double-sided cloth, the nylon as the surface layer and the polylactic acid fiber yarn as the bottom layer to form the nylon cover polylactic acid fiber structure, thereby realizing the advantage complementation of the two materials.
Referring to fig. 2 to 3, as a first embodiment of the present invention, the fabric is a knitted fabric, the nylon yarn in the first yarn 10 has a specification of 50D/24F, the nylon yarn is a draw textured yarn, the nylon yarn is a delustering yarn, the first yarn 10 further includes a 20D spandex yarn, the polylactic acid fiber yarn in the second yarn 20 has a specification of 45S/1, and the second yarn 20 further includes 20D spandex.
As a preferred mode of the invention, the fabric further comprises connecting yarns 30 interwoven on the surface layer and the bottom layer, the connecting yarns 30 are 70D/48F nylon yarns, the nylon yarns are draw textured yarns, the connecting yarns 30 are semi-dull yarns, the fabric is endowed with natural and soft luster, the aurora of the chemical fiber fabric is eliminated, the fabric is attractive and durable, and the connecting yarns 30 are positioned in the middle layer, so that the cost can be reduced and the cost performance of the product is improved without full dull. In the invention, the surface layer and the bottom layer are both weft plain stitch tissues.
According to the invention, the natural bending similar to cotton fiber is obtained by the chinlon yarn through a false twist deformation method, and the fluffy yarn structure enables the surface layer to obtain flexible hand feeling, thereby being beneficial to improving the air permeability, the skin-friendly property and the shape-keeping property; secondly, the denier number and the F number are medium, so that the surface layer further obtains soft and tough handfeel, and the skin-friendly property and the shape-keeping property are further improved; then, the gloss of the adopted yarn is extinction, the gloss sense of the chemical fiber fabric is eliminated, the visual style of cotton imitation is obtained, the natural extinction of the yarn is more matched with that of polylactic acid fiber yarn, and the product grade is improved; finally, spandex is added to impart excellent elasticity to the facing layer.
Preferably, in this embodiment, the polylactic acid fiber is staple fiber, and the polylactic acid fiber yarn is spun by the staple fiber. The longer and thicker the fiber length of the short fiber, the less likely to pilling, therefore, the upper limit of the cotton type short fiber is preferably selected in the invention, the specification is 1.8dtex multiplied by 38mm, namely the linear density is 1.8dtex, the length is 38mm, according to the GB/T14464 and 2008 standard requirement, the superior product of the high-strength cotton type is achieved, the strength is high, the defects are few, the preventability is good, the yarn quality is high, the problems of pilling and weak strength are fundamentally improved, and the obtained touch feeling is soft and skin-friendly like cotton. Preferably, the polylactic acid fiber is compact siro spinning, which is a mode combining the siro spinning and the compact spinning, firstly, a process similar to the compact spinning is adopted to enable all fibers in strands to be in a parallel compact state, then, the process similar to the siro spinning is adopted, two strands are fed in parallel and twisted synchronously and in the same direction to form yarn with a double-strand structure, the fibers on the surfaces and inside of the strands are arranged orderly, stressed uniformly and tightly clasped, the fibers on the surfaces form the double-strand structure, the structure is extremely compact, the evenness, the hairiness, the strength, the wear resistance and the pilling resistance of the short fibers of the polylactic acid fiber are greatly improved, and the method is far better than the siro spinning and the compact spinning, and the cloth cover of a bottom layer is flat, smooth, soft in touch and good in air permeability. The yarn count of the polylactic acid fiber yarn is 45S/1, the polylactic acid fiber yarn is most commonly used in the market, the thickness of the yarn is in a medium level, and the polylactic acid fiber yarn is beneficial to obtaining good shape retention and soft hand feeling of a bottom layer.
Referring to fig. 5, as a second embodiment of the present invention, the fabric is a woven fabric, the first yarn 10 and the second yarn 20 are both weft yarns, and the woven fabric further includes a warp yarn 40 interwoven with both the first yarn 10 and the second yarn 20.
In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the warp 40 and the first yarn 10 are both 30D/10F nylon yarns, the nylon yarns are draw textured yarns, the nylon yarns are semi-dull yarns, the polylactic acid fiber yarns are 75D/72F in specification, and the polylactic acid fiber yarns are spun from polylactic acid fiber filaments. According to the invention, the polylactic acid fiber filament has good yarn strength, yarn breakage is not easy to weave, the woven cloth cover is flat and not easy to pilling, and the obtained touch feeling is soft; the natural bending of the nylon similar to cotton fiber is obtained by a false twist texturing method, and the fluffy yarn structure enables the surface layer to obtain flexible hand feeling, thereby being beneficial to improving the air permeability, the skin-friendly property and the shape retention property; then, the denier number and the F number are higher, soft and tough handfeel is further obtained, and the skin-friendly property and the shape-keeping property are further improved; finally, the adopted luster is the natural luster of the polylactic acid fiber, so that the polylactic acid fiber is more attractive and durable.
Preferably, as a preferred aspect of the present invention, in the interlacing point, the warp yarn 40 is floating above the yarn (in fig. 5, the black filled square indicates that the warp yarn 40 is floating on the second yarn 20, and the gray filled square indicates that the warp yarn 40 is floating on the first yarn 10), the warp yarn 40 is sinking below the weft yarn, two warp yarns 40 are interlaced with the first yarn 10 in one repeat, and the manner of interlacing the warp yarn 40 with the first yarn 10 is: a first warp yarn 40 interweaves with two first yarns 10 in a floating-sinking manner, and a second warp yarn 40 interweaves with two first yarns 10 in a floating-sinking manner; four of the warp yarns 40 interweave with four of the second yarns 20 in a repeat pattern, the warp yarns 40 interweave with the second yarns 20 by: a first one of the warp yarns 40 interweaves with four of the second weft yarns in a float-sink-float manner, a second one of the warp yarns 40 interweaves with four of the second weft yarns in a float-sink-float manner, a third one of the warp yarns 40 interweaves with four of the second weft yarns in a sink-float-sink manner, and a fourth one of the warp yarns 40 interweaves with four of the second weft yarns in a sink-float manner.
The invention also provides a manufacturing method of the soft-touch environment-friendly sports coat, which splices the fabrics into the coat body 10, the manufacturing of the fabrics comprises the following steps,
A. weaving, namely weaving by using a circular knitting machine with an upper dial and a lower needle cylinder, and circularly weaving by using the circular knitting machine to form a grey cloth with a surface layer, a bottom layer and 30 connecting yarns, wherein 3 paths of the grey cloth are one cycle, the 1 st path uses 70D/48F polyamide yarns to weave a 1+1 rib row, the polyamide yarns are draw textured yarns, and the weight of the polyamide yarns is 28% of the weight of the grey cloth;
feeding 45S/1 polylactic acid fiber yarns and 20D spandex together in a 2 nd path, wherein the polylactic acid fiber yarns are short fibers, the spandex is under the polylactic acid fiber yarns when the polylactic acid fiber yarns are fed, the polylactic acid fiber yarns are over the polylactic acid fiber yarns, and the polylactic acid fiber yarns are knitted into loops by weft plain needles through an upper dial; in this example, the weight of the polylactic acid fiber yarn is 45% of the weight of the gray fabric, and the weight of the spandex is 4% of the weight of the gray fabric;
the 3 rd path is fed with 50D/24F nylon yarn and 20D spandex together, the spandex yarn is on when being fed, the nylon yarn is under, and the loop is formed by weft plain knitting through a lower needle cylinder; in the embodiment, the nylon yarn is drawn textured yarn, the weight of the nylon yarn is 21% of the weight of the grey cloth, and the weight of the spandex is 2% of the weight of the grey cloth;
when weaving, the invention firstly improves weaving effect and cloth surface evenness: the polylactic acid fiber yarn has weak strength, high elongation at break and poor moisture absorption (moisture regain of 0.5 percent), is completely serious in static electricity and easy to break during weaving, has low weaving efficiency, is serious in cloth cover horizontal stripes and poor in flatness, the surface layer and the connecting yarn 30 of the invention adopt nylon DTY filaments, have high yarn strength, high elongation at break and good moisture absorption (moisture regain of 4.5 percent), are slight in static electricity and difficult to break during weaving, only the polylactic acid fiber staple fiber yarn selected for the bottom layer can adopt a waxing process, the use of the polylactic acid staple fiber yarn is reduced to the greatest extent, and during weaving, the phenomena of static electricity and yarn breakage can be obviously relieved, the weaving efficiency is improved, and the cloth cover flatness is improved.
Secondly, the complementary advantages of the nylon and the polylactic acid fiber yarn are realized: the nylon surface layer can be ironed, the dyeing and finishing temperature is low (95-100 ℃), the cloth surface is smooth and bright, the touch is smooth and cool, the nylon surface layer is wear-resistant, free of pilling, fading and wool sticking, the bottom layer is made of polylactic acid fiber yarns, ironing is not needed, dyeing or light-colored dyeing is not needed, printing is not needed, the defects that the temperature is not high-temperature resistant and the dyeing and finishing temperature is not higher than 125 ℃ are overcome, the touch of the bottom layer is soft like cotton, the advantages of skin friendliness, antibiosis, flame resistance and quick drying of polylactic acid are fully exerted, the nylon surface layer is extremely comfortable to wear next to the skin, and accordingly the advantage complementation of nylon and polylactic.
Then, it has excellent shape retention: the surface layer nylon filament yarn and the DTY yarn have fluffy structures, the denier number and the F number are moderate, the surface layer is endowed with flexible hand feeling, and in addition, the spandex fed together is added, so that the contraction effect is strong, the surface layer is extremely compact and has good resilience, and good shape retention is obtained;
finally, there is good comfort: the middle layer connecting yarn 30 forms a coil by a 1+1 rib weave, and the middle comparison layer is fluffy, so that the fabric has good heat retention property; the middle layer is fluffy, and the surface bottom layer is extremely compact and is formed by stringing coils, so that the fabric has better air permeability; the middle layer is fluffy and has better extensibility, and spandex is padded on the upper bottom layer, so that the fabric has good elasticity and can move freely; the surface layer has soft and smooth touch, the bottom layer has cotton touch, the whole fabric has flexible touch, and the flexibility of the whole fabric is very close to that of human skin, so that the fabric has skin-friendly touch, and the wearing experience is extremely comfortable; 45% of the polylactic acid fiber yarn amount enables the whole fabric to be natural and have good antibacterial performance, and the wearing experience is not smelly; bottom polylactic acid fiber yarn, account for than 45%, the moisture regain is 0.5%, between the fibre, the fibre inner space is many, the wicking effect is strong, fast dry nature is close the dacron, the moisture permeability far exceeds the dacron, human stealthy sweat can be conducted the intermediate level fast when wearing, and the fluffy space of intermediate level structure is many to be led wet nature well and the polyamide fibre material moisture absorption is better, conduct the surface course to stealthy sweat fast, the surface course polyamide fibre moisture absorption is good, absorb stealthy sweat fast, form the surface course moist and the dry and comfortable effect of bottom, the wearing experience is extremely comfortable.
Furthermore, in having a stylish appearance: the surface layer and the middle layer are dyed with nylon, the bottom layer polylactic acid fiber yarn is not dyed to form a white bottom double-color effect, or the bottom layer polylactic acid fiber yarn is dyed with a light color to form a surface bottom dark double-color effect, or the bottom layer polylactic acid fiber yarn is dyed with another color system to form a surface bottom heterochromatic double-color effect, and the appearance is fashionable and novel.
B. Removing oil, namely removing the oil by an oil removing machine and removing the oil on the grey cloth by falling the cloth in a cylinder to boil;
C. pre-setting, namely pre-setting the grey cloth, wherein the pre-setting temperature is 125 ℃, the spandex can adopt low-temperature spandex, so that the cloth cover can be fully retracted, and the hand feeling of the polylactic acid fiber yarn can be hardly influenced during pre-setting;
D. dyeing nylon, wherein polylactic acid fiber is one of polyester fiber, and needs to be dyed by disperse dye, the nylon can be dyed during dyeing, so as to ensure that the nylon is not stained, only a two-bath two-step method of dyeing the nylon first and then dyeing the polylactic acid fiber yarn is adopted for dyeing, therefore, after the presetting is finished, the nylon is dyed by acid dye in a dye vat at first, the dyeing temperature is as low as 98 ℃, alkali is hardly used in the dyeing process, the influence on the properties of the polylactic acid such as hand feeling and the like is small, the dyeing is finished and the water washing is sufficient, the stained floating color is sufficiently removed, and the next dyeing of the polylactic acid fiber yarn is ensured to obtain better color fastness;
E. and (3) neutralization: immediately carrying out middle shaping after the chinlon dyeing is finished, wherein the shaping temperature is 125 ℃, so that the problem of wrinkling caused by dyeing is solved, and the cloth cover is retracted;
as a preferred mode of the invention, the method further comprises a step F after the step E, wherein the step F is to dye the polylactic acid fiber yarn, the polylactic acid fiber yarn is dyed by using disperse dyes, the dyeing temperature is 108-112 ℃, so as to ensure the dyeing uniformity, the dyeing is completed and sufficiently washed, the loose color stained on the chinlon or the polylactic acid fiber yarn is sufficiently washed, so as to ensure that good color fastness is obtained, and the method further comprises a step G after the step F, wherein the step G is to be definite, and the setting temperature is 125 ℃.
The finished fabric product of the invention comprises 49% of chinlon, 45% of polylactic acid fiber yarn and 6% of spandex, wherein the front surface of the fabric is dark, the fabric surface is smooth and clean and has smooth and compact touch, the back surface is light color, and the fabric surface is smooth and compact and has cotton touch. The gram weight of the invention is 300g/m2The sports coat can be used as a spring and autumn knitted sweater, a knitted jacket and knitted pants, has the selling price of 300-500 yuan, is acceptable by common consumers and has higher cost performance.
The results of the functional tests of the fabrics of the first embodiment are shown in Table 1
TABLE 1
The invention also provides another method for manufacturing the soft-touch environment-friendly sports coat, which splices the fabrics into the coat body 10, and the manufacturing of the fabrics comprises the following steps,
A. weaving, namely weaving the grey cloth by using a weaving device, wherein in fig. 5, the warp yarn 40 is represented by numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 arranged in the weft direction, the first yarn 10 is represented by numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4 arranged in the warp direction, the second yarn 20 is represented by A, B, C, D letters arranged in the warp direction, the interweaving point of the warp yarn 40 and the first yarn 10 is a color square (the warp yarn 40 is at the top), and the interweaving point of the warp yarn 40 and the second yarn 20 is a color square (the warp yarn 40 is at the top). The warp 40 adopts 30D/10F nylon yarns, the weft comprises a first yarn 10 and a second yarn 20, the warp 40 and the first yarn 10 are 30D/10F nylon yarns, the nylon yarns are draw textured yarns, the second yarn 20 is 75D/72F polylactic acid fiber yarns, the polylactic acid fiber is a filament, the warp 40 and the first yarn 10 are vertically interwoven to form a surface layer in a plain weave, the warp 40 and the second yarn 20 are interwoven to form a bottom layer in a twill weave, the twill weave forms twill-shaped small lifting points, the weft floating length obtained by interweaving is very long, the second yarn 20 is much thicker than the first yarn 10, the plain weave floating length obtained by interweaving the warp 40 and the first yarn 10 is very short, the weft floating length of the twill-shaped small lifting points is beautiful to cover the plain weave floating length, and the reverse side of the second yarn 20 is embodied by the characteristics of the twill-shaped small lifting points, namely the characteristics of the polylactic acid fiber, thereby forming a double structure of the surface layer nylon and the bottom layer polylactic acid fiber. In the invention, the weight of the nylon yarn is 81 percent of the weight of the grey cloth, and the weight of the polylactic acid fiber yarn is 19 percent of the weight of the grey cloth;
in this embodiment, first, promote weaving effect and cloth cover roughness: the warp 40 and the first yarn 10 of the invention are nylon DTY filaments, the yarn strength is high, the elongation at break is large, the moisture absorption is good (the moisture regain is 4.5 percent), the static electricity is slight during weaving, only the polylactic acid fiber filaments selected by the second yarn 20 can adopt a waxing process, the use of the polylactic acid filaments is reduced, the static electricity and yarn breakage phenomena can be obviously reduced during weaving, the weaving efficiency is improved, and the cloth surface smoothness is improved;
secondly, the complementary advantages of the nylon and the polylactic acid fiber yarn are realized: the nylon surface layer can be ironed, the dyeing and finishing temperature is low (95-100 ℃), the cloth cover is smooth and bright, the touch is smooth and cool, the nylon surface layer is wear-resistant and free of pilling, fading and wool sticking, the bottom layer is made of polylactic acid fiber yarns, ironing, dyeing or light-colored dyeing and printing are not needed, the defects that the temperature is not high-temperature resistant and the dyeing and finishing temperature is not higher than 125 ℃ are overcome, the touch of the bottom layer is soft like cotton, the advantages of skin affinity, antibiosis, flame resistance and quick drying of polylactic acid are fully exerted, close-fitting wearing is extremely comfortable, and accordingly the advantage complementation of nylon and polylactic acid fiber yarns is achieved;
then, it has excellent shape retention: warp 40 and first yarn 10 nylon filament, DTY yarn structure is fluffy, the denier number and F number are smaller, the surface layer is endowed with flexible hand feeling, the second yarn 20 is spun by polylactic acid fiber filament, the DTY yarn structure is fluffy, the denier number and F number are higher, the bottom layer is endowed with flexible hand feeling, and in addition, warp and weft interweaving of the warp 40 and the first yarn 10 and the second yarn 20 results in stable structure and excellent shape retention of the whole fabric, so that the defects that a nylon material is easy to deform and wrinkle are overcome; finally, there is good comfort: the surface layer is tightly interwoven in a plain weave mode, and the bottom layer is interwoven with twill-shaped small lifting points, so that the fabric is fluffy, and has good air permeability; the surface layer is soft and smooth in touch, the bottom layer is soft in touch, the whole fabric is flexible in touch and close to the flexibility of human skin, so that the fabric is skin-friendly in touch, and the wearing experience is extremely comfortable; the use amount of the polylactic acid fiber yarn of 19 percent enables the whole fabric to be natural and have good antibacterial performance, and the wearing experience is not smelly; the bottom polylactic acid fiber yarn accounts for 19%, the moisture regain is 0.5%, gaps among fibers and in the fibers are many, the wicking effect is strong, the quick-drying property is close to terylene, the moisture conductivity far exceeds that of terylene, invisible sweat of a human body can be quickly conducted to a surface layer when the invisible sweat-absorbent garment is worn, the surface layer polyamide fiber absorbs moisture well, the invisible sweat is quickly absorbed, the effect that the surface layer is wet and the bottom layer is dry and comfortable is formed, and the wearing experience is extremely comfortable.
Furthermore, in having a stylish appearance: the warp 40 and the first yarn 10 are thin in yarn count and made of nylon materials, and have a certain transparent effect naturally, so that the lifting point mechanism of the back side is hidden and is transparent to the front side, the gloss is natural, soft and attractive, or the surface layer nylon is dyed, the bottom layer polylactic acid fiber yarn is not dyed to form a white bottom double-color effect, or the bottom layer polylactic acid fiber yarn is dyed to form a light bottom double-color effect, or the bottom layer polylactic acid yarn is dyed to form a surface bottom two-color effect of another color system, and the appearance is fashionable and novel.
B. Removing oil, namely removing the oil by an oil removing machine and removing the oil on the grey cloth by falling the cloth in a cylinder to boil;
C. pre-setting, namely pre-setting the grey cloth, wherein the pre-setting temperature is 125 ℃, the spandex can adopt low-temperature spandex, so that the cloth cover can be fully retracted, and the hand feeling of the polylactic acid fiber yarn can be hardly influenced during pre-setting;
D. dyeing nylon, wherein the polylactic acid fiber is one of polyester fibers, and needs to be dyed by using disperse dyes, the nylon can be dyed during dyeing, so that the nylon is not stained, only a two-bath two-step method of dyeing the nylon first and then dyeing the polylactic acid fiber yarn is adopted for dyeing, after the presetting is finished, the nylon is dyed by using acid dyes in a dye vat at first, the dyeing temperature is as low as 98 ℃, alkali is hardly used in the dyeing process, the influence on the properties of the polylactic acid fiber yarn such as hand feeling and the like is small, the dyeing is finished by fully washing, stained loose colors are fully removed, and the next dyeing of the polylactic acid fiber yarn is ensured to obtain better color fastness;
E. and (3) neutralization: immediately carrying out middle shaping after the chinlon dyeing is finished, wherein the shaping temperature is 125 ℃, so that the problem of wrinkling caused by dyeing is solved, and the cloth cover is retracted;
as a preferred mode of the invention, the method further comprises a step F after the step E, wherein the step F is to dye the polylactic acid fiber yarn, the polylactic acid fiber yarn is dyed by using disperse dyes, the dyeing temperature is 108-112 ℃, so as to ensure the dyeing uniformity, the dyeing is completed and sufficiently washed, the loose color stained on the chinlon or the polylactic acid fiber yarn is sufficiently washed, so as to ensure that good color fastness is obtained, and the method further comprises a step G after the step F, wherein the step G is to be definite, and the setting temperature is 125 ℃.
In the embodiment, the obtained fabric finished product is 81% of chinlon 19% of polylactic acid fiber yarns, the warp density is 226 pieces/inch, the weft density is 180 pieces/inch, the front side is flat and smooth and has smooth and compact touch, and the back side is flat and compact and has soft touch. The gram weight of the fabric of the embodiment is 69g/m2It can be used as wind coat and jacket in spring, summer and autumn.
The results of the functional tests on the second example fabric are shown in Table 2
TABLE 2
The product form of the present invention is not limited to the embodiments and examples shown in the present application, and any suitable changes or modifications of the similar ideas should be made without departing from the patent scope of the present invention.