JPH0768655B2 - Special false twisted yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION <Industrial field of application> The present invention has little crimp due to false twisting, even though it is a false twisted textured yarn, and feels and looks like a drawn yarn (hereinafter , Such a state may be referred to as drawn yarn-like or silk-like.) A feminine-like silk-like garment that exhibits a good bulge that cannot be achieved by an ordinary drawn yarn when used as a woven or knitted fabric. The present invention relates to a textured yarn suitable for.

<Problems to be Solved by Conventional Techniques and Inventions> As a method for producing a sublimated structured textured yarn, a method of false twisting a plurality of filament yarns is known, and usually 18
False twisting is generally performed at a false twist temperature of 0 to 230 ° C. and a normal twist number. When this method is used, different textures can be created depending on the yarns to be combined and false twisting conditions, but almost all of them are hemp-like textured yarns that use gluing, and woollike textured yarns with a large crimp Therefore, it has been difficult to obtain a textured yarn like a drawn yarn with less crimp by these conventional methods.

<Means for Solving Problems> The inventors of the present invention have conducted research for the purpose of producing a structurally processed yarn that is like a drawn yarn and that can express sublime after forming a fabric. The invention was reached. That is, the present invention is obtained by compounding two polyester filament yarns having different elongations and false twisting or draw false twisting, one polyester filament yarn serving as a core yarn, and the other polyester filament yarn. A structured processed yarn in which a filament yarn becomes a side yarn and is wound around the core yarn, and has a crimping ratio (K ₁ value) defined below of 4% or less and a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 7
% Or more and specific gravity of 1.3750 or less, and a silk-like special false twisted yarn in which a core yarn and side yarns are entangled.

K ₁ value: A sample was wound up by a wind winder until it reached 5000 denier, and a load of 10 g was hung at the center of the lower end of the wind, and this load was fixed at the center of the top, and a load of 0.001 g / d was applied. In the hanging state
Perform hot water treatment at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. Then, after leaving it to stand at room temperature with no load and drying it, a load of 10 g is applied again, and the yarn length after standing for 5 minutes is measured, and this is defined as L ₁ (mm). Then 1k
When the thread length after applying a load of g for 30 seconds and measuring it as L ₂ (mm), K ₁ (%) = {(L ₂ −L ₁ ) / L ₂ } × 100 This K ₁ value is It indicates the size of shrinkage due to the crimpability of the yarn. It shows the difference between the length when a large load is applied and no crimping is applied, and the length when an extremely small load (equivalent to no load) is applied. It is shown.

The K ₁ value of ordinary sublimated structured textured yarn (wool-like textured yarn) is 7 to 20%. Some of them have a textured yarn of 5% or less, but these are glue yarns and false twist two-step heater high heat treatment yarns, both of which are obtained by high false heat treatment of one or two false twists and have a K ₁ value. Even if the value is low, as a result of high heat treatment, the boiling water shrinkage ratio and the specific gravity deviate greatly from the ranges specified in the present invention. When the K ₁ value exceeds 4%, since the crimpability is high, the textured yarn becomes sublime and the textured yarn does not become a drawn yarn-like textured yarn having low crimpability.

In order to obtain a unique silky-tone good texture for the purpose of the present invention, high heat treatment should not be performed in both the first and second stages, and the low crimpability and the post-treatment heat treatment after weaving A relatively large change in shrinkage heat, which is different from general processed yarns, is important, and for that purpose it is necessary that the boiling water shrinkage rate is 7% or more and the specific gravity is 1.3750 or less. . When the boiling water shrinkage is less than 7% or the specific gravity exceeds 1.3750, the shrinkage after weaving is low, and it becomes difficult to obtain a swelling and characteristic texture. I can't get the thread. More preferably, boiling water shrinkage is 7
% Or more and a specific gravity of 1.370 or less.

Generally, when two filament yarns with different elongations are false-twisted, the yarns with lower elongation become core yarns and the yarns with higher elongation become side yarns, which are twisted around the outer circumference. If the yarn is excessively drawn from the core yarn, a difference in yarn length will inevitably occur. If there is a difference in yarn length, the handleability is very poor unless entanglement treatment is applied, and the core yarn and side yarns are severely separated from each other and fluff is generated, and the obtained fabric has streaky dyed spots. Is easy to occur. The entanglement treatment is preferably performed before false twisting or drawn false twisting, and when applied after false twisting, fluff tends to occur frequently. However, since the generation of the fluff brings about a spun-like texture similar to a silk-textured texture, an entanglement treatment may be applied after false-twisting when the spun-like silk-textured texture is extremely important. .

Next, a typical method for obtaining the false twist textured yarn of the present invention will be described. First, multiple yarns containing two polyester filament yarns with a difference in elongation at break of 50% or more are combined and entangled, and then at low temperature twist set temperature in the range of 80 to 150 ° C. And the following formula Tw: False twist Dr: False twist or draw (simultaneous or continuous) with a low twist number that satisfies the fineness (denier) of the yarn after drawing
Obtained by false twisting. When performing the entanglement treatment before drawing, if the draw ratio is 1.5 or more, especially 2.0 or more, the entanglement point is destroyed and the bundle focusing property is deteriorated. Therefore, the low elongation yarn to be the core yarn is about 2500 m / min or more. It is desirable to use high speed undrawn yarn. However, when the drawn yarn is used as the core yarn, the physical properties of the drawn yarn are already 8 to 10% in boiling water shrinkage and 1.
Since it is close to 380, it is easy to deviate from the range of the boiling water shrinkage ratio defined by the present invention of 7% or more and the specific gravity of 1.3750 or less. In such a case, a suitable side yarn is used, and by averaging the yarn with the side yarn, the range can be within the range specified in the present invention, and a good cloth can be obtained from such a processed yarn. As is clear from this, the specific gravity referred to in the present invention is an average value of the core yarn and the side yarns, that is, an average value in consideration of the quantity ratio.

The textured yarn of the present invention has a two-layer structure in which one of the two filament yarns serves as the core yarn and the other serves as the side yarn. Therefore, in order to obtain further characteristics when a fabric is formed from these yarns, it is desirable that the single fineness of these fiber bundles satisfy the following formula.

Dr (1) ≥ 1.3 Dr (1): Single fineness of core yarn after drawing (denier) Dr (2) ≤ 1.3 Dr (2): Single fineness of side yarn after drawing (denier) Dr (1)> Dr (2) ) That is, by increasing the size of Dr (1) (core yarn), the stiffness of the woven or knitted fabric can be strengthened, and by decreasing the size of Dr (2) (side yarn) (high count), the softness of the woven or knitted fabric can be increased. it can. More preferably, Dr (1) ≧ 2.0, Dr (2) ≦ 1.0
Is.

Further, in the present invention, the proportion of the yarn serving as the core yarn is preferably 30 to 70% by weight of the structured yarn.

The polyester fiber constituting the processed yarn of the present invention is a fiber composed of a polymer having ethylene terephthalate units as a main component and, of course, a small amount of other portions (for example, isophthalic acid and sulfoisophthalic acid) for modification.
May be copolymerized, and other polymers and additive components may be mixed.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to examples.

Example 1 Let A be a 50 denier, 24-filament stretched yarn (elongation: 29.5%, single fineness: 2.1 denier) composed of a polyethylene terephthalate bright polymer obtained by a conventional method. Next, 80 denier and 72 filament high-speed spun unstretched yarn (125% elongation, 1.1 denier monofilament) wound at a speed of 3000 m / min and made of polyethylene terephthalate bright polymer, which was also obtained by a conventional method, were designated as B. To do.

These A and B are combined, and the number of entanglements is 70 in a free state only by the unwinding tension from the creel at 2.0 kg / cm ² pressure in advance.
After performing the entanglement treatment of / m, false twisting was performed under the following conditions.

False Twisting Conditions Twist number 1600 T / m Overfeed 6.0% Heater temperature 95 ° C. In the obtained processed yarn, A was the core yarn and B was the side yarn and was wound around the core yarn, and the physical properties were as follows.
Further, the monofilaments of the core yarn and the side yarns in the processed yarn were about 2 denier for the core yarn and about 1 denier for the side yarn, respectively. The physical properties of the obtained textured yarn were as follows.

K ₁ = 1.1% Boiling water shrinkage = 8.5% Specific gravity = 1.3656 This yarn was drawn yarn-like and had a silky texture, and was extremely excellent as a feminine-like silk-like raw yarn for clothing.

Example 2 A high-speed spinning raw yarn of 75 denier and 36 filaments (elongation: 144%, single fineness: 2.1 denier) wound at a spinning speed of 3200 m / min using a polyethylene terephthalate bright polymer obtained by a conventional method is designated as C. A medium-speed spinning raw yarn of 85 denier and 48 filaments (elongation 230%, single fineness 1.8 denier) wound at a spinning speed of 2000 m / min using the same polymer is designated as D.

These C and D are combined and an interlace nozzle is used.
Overfeed rate 2%, air pressure 2.5kg / cm ² entanglement number 55
After performing the entanglement treatment of the number of pieces / m, simultaneous drawing and false twisting were performed under the following conditions.

False twist condition Stretching ratio 1.45 Heater temperature 120 ℃ Twist number 2100T / m Speed 200m / min In the obtained processed yarn, C is the core yarn and D is the side yarn and is wound around the core yarn. The physical properties are as follows. Met.
The individual finenesses of the core yarn and the side yarn in the processed yarn were about 1.4 denier for the core yarn and about 1.1 denier for the side yarn.

K ₁ = 2.9% Boiling water shrinkage = 8.5% Specific gravity = 1.3683 This processed yarn was also a drawn yarn and had an excellent silk-like feel.

As a result of producing a habutae woven fabric using the false twist textured yarns obtained in Examples 1 and 2 without twisting, as a result, a soft silk-spun fabric having a sublime property which cannot be considered as a non-twisted fabric is obtained. Was given.

Comparative Example 1 Simultaneous drawing false twisting was performed in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the false twisting number was 2450 T / m and the heater temperature was 190 ° C. The resulting processed yarn has a crimp ratio K1 value of 6.5%,
It had a boiling water shrinkage of 5.4% and a specific gravity of 1.3895 and was a typical sublime spunlike yarn.

 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (72) Inventor Nobuhiko Yokota, Kuraray Co., Ltd. 1621 Sakata, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture (72) Osamu Takemura 1-1239 Umeda, Kita-ku, Osaka City, Osaka Prefecture Kuraray Co., Ltd. (56) References JP-A-56-20627 (JP, A) JP-A-57-25433 (JP, A) JP-A-60-126340 (JP, A) JP-A-59-137532 (JP, A) JP-A-56-154531 (JP, A) JP-A-58-144112 (JP, A) JP-B-48-3868 (JP, B2)

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A polyester filament yarn obtained by combining two polyester filament yarns having different elongations and false twisting or drawing false twisting, one polyester filament yarn being a core yarn, and the other polyester filament yarn. Is a textured yarn in which the side yarn is wound around the core yarn and has a crimping ratio (K ₁ value) defined below of 4% or less and a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 7
% Or more and a specific gravity of 1.3750 or less, and a silk-like special false twisted yarn characterized in that the core yarn and the side yarn are entangled. K ₁ value: A sample was wound up by a wind winder until it reached 5000 denier, and a load of 10 g was hung at the center of the lower end of the wind, and this load was fixed at the center of the top, and a load of 0.001 g / d was applied. In the hanging state
Perform hot water treatment at 90 ° C for 30 minutes. Then, after leaving it to stand at room temperature with no load and drying it, a load of 10 g is applied again, and the yarn length after standing for 5 minutes is measured, and this is defined as L ₁ (mm). Then 1k
When the yarn length after applying a load of g for 30 seconds and measuring it as L ₂ (mm), K ₁ (%) = {(L ₂ −L ₁ ) / L ₂ } × 100