JP3329412B2 - Polyester composite yarn - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester composite yarn, and more particularly to a polyester capable of providing a woven / knitted fabric having a soft feeling, a swelling feeling, a dry feeling, a moderate feeling of tightness and a natural heather appearance. Related to composite yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Polyester multifilaments are used for clothing, living materials, and industrial materials, taking advantage of their excellent properties. A composite yarn comprising a plurality of polyester multifilaments having different heat shrinkage rates is mainly used for apparel, has a texture excellent in bulkiness and the like, and is widely used. However, when all the filaments constituting the composite multifilament shrink, the difference in the shrinkage rate present in the composite multifilament cannot be sufficiently manifested in the dyeing process due to the binding force of the structure of the woven or knitted fabric, and the yarn The difference in length may be insufficient, and the woven or knitted fabric may have insufficient swelling.

[0003] As a technique for improving the swelling feeling of a woven or knitted product as compared with the above-mentioned composite multifilament, a composite yarn formed by a combination of a polyester filament that expands by heat and a polyester multifilament that contracts by heat is also known. As a typical example of such a composite multifilament, there is JP-B-4-18051.
The latent bulky polyester composite yarn for the woven or knitted fabric of the publication is dyed, compared with the conventional different shrinkage conjugate yarn by performing a setting treatment, whereby the yarn length difference in the woven or knitted fabric can be easily expressed, Dramatic improvement in swelling is recognized.

On the other hand, as a technique for giving a polyester multifilament a heather appearance like a natural fiber or a marbling appearance, a so-called thick and thin yarn having thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction is also well known. 4-18
In JP-A-051, No. 6, line 24 to line 39, an example in which a thick and thin yarn is applied as a heat-shrinkable multifilament is described. In this case, the texture rich in swelling and the natural appearance like a natural fiber or a marbling appearance are shared, but one problem remains.

[0005] That is, the feeling of tightness is insufficient, and the texture tends to be loose. In other words, the heat-extended yarn in the publication was subjected to relaxation heat treatment, and had a breaking elongation of 50%.
This is what exists. On the other hand, thick and thin yarns, which are heat-shrinkable yarns, are obtained by non-uniform stretching or the like. As a result, the unstretched portions are thickened, so that the breaking elongation is usually 50% or more. Is easily deformed easily with respect to the load, which is considered to lead to a lack of tension.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention is intended to solve the above-mentioned problems, and comprises a heat-expanding polyester filament and a heat-shrinkable polyester filament of thick and thin yarn to provide a sense of swelling and naturalness. It makes the fiber-like appearance and stiffness shared.

[0007]

That is, the present invention provides the following formula:
(1) A entangled composite yarn comprising at least a polyester multifilament A satisfying (3) and a polyester multifilament B having a thick and thin spot in a fiber axis direction,
The degree of entanglement (Di) in which the cross section of the filament constituting the polyester multifilament B has a hollow cross section
Is 20 to 100 fibers / m. SHD (A) ≦ 0 [%] ………………………… (1) SHD (B)> 0 [%] ……………………… (2) SHD (B) −SHD (A) ≧ 5.0 [%] ………… (3) UR (B) ≧ 20.0 [%] (4) (However, SHD (A) is the dry heat shrinkage [%] of polyester multifilament A at 160 ° C, and SHD (B) is polyester multifilament B UR (B) indicates a thick and thin spot [%] of the polyester multifilament B).

[0008] The polyester composite yarn of the present invention is a polyester multifilament A having heat elongation properties and a polyester multifilament B having heat shrink properties.
And at least the following. The thermal elongation characteristic of the polyester multifilament A is defined by the fact that the SHD measured by a measuring method described below is 0% or less. Polyester multifilament B
Is defined by the fact that the SHD is greater than 0%. When the polyester composite yarn of the present invention is dyed after knitting and weaving, the yarn length difference is easily expressed in comparison with the conventional non-shrinkage composite yarn woven / knitted fabric composed of only filaments having heat shrinkable properties. , Which significantly improves the swelling feeling.

SH of polyester multifilament A
D needs to be 0% or less, more preferably -15.0% or more and -2.0% or less.
If it is less than -15.0 [%], swelling feeling is extremely good, but pilling defects are likely to occur in the woven or knitted fabric, which is not preferable. If the SHD exceeds 0%, it is difficult to impart a yarn length difference during the dyeing process as in the case of the conventional hetero-shrinkage composite yarn, so that the feeling of swelling is insufficient, and the intended object of the present invention cannot be achieved.

SH of polyester multifilament B
D needs to be more than 0 [%], and more preferably, it is not less than 3.0 [%] and not more than 70.0 [%]. 0
[%] Or less means that all the filaments constituting the composite yarn become heat-expandable filaments, which is not preferable because the feeling of tension is insufficient. Also, 70.0
If it exceeds [%], the processing shrinkage during dyeing of the woven or knitted fabric is too large, and handling becomes difficult.

The difference between the SHD of the polyester multifilament B and the SHD of the polyester multifilament A is 5.
It must be present at 0% or more. 5.0
When the SHD of the polyester multifilament A is less than 0 [%] and the SHD of the polyester multifilt B is larger than 0 [%], a sufficient yarn length difference cannot be exhibited, and It becomes a woven or knitted fabric with poor feeling.

It is necessary that the polyester multifilament B has thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction. This is to give the woven or knitted fabric a natural fiber-like heather-like or marbling-like appearance. The presence of thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction is based on the fact that the UR measured by the method described below is 15.0% or more.
Defined. If it is less than 15.0%, the difference in dyeing in the fiber axis direction is unclear, and a heather-like or marbling-like appearance cannot be obtained. More preferably, it is 20.0 [%] or more and 70.0 [%] or less. If it exceeds 70.0 [%], it is not preferable because insufficient strength and insufficient stiffness occur.

It is important that the cross section of the filament constituting the polyester multifilament B has a hollow cross section. This is due to the fact that the hollow cross-section filament has an advantage of increasing the feeling of tightness based on the higher bending rigidity as compared with the solid cross-section filament of the same denier. In the polyester composite yarn of the present invention, both the polyester multifilament A and the polyester multifilament B are multifilaments having an elongation at break of about 50% or more. Feeling lacks. In particular, the polyester multifilament B, in which the yarn length becomes shorter in the composite yarn after the dyeing process, has a large relationship with the stiffness of the woven or knitted fabric. Can be The area ratio of the hollow portion is preferably about 5.0% to about 70.0% based on the whole filament. If it is less than 5.0 [%], the difference from the solid cross-section yarn is small, and the effect of improving the feeling of tightness is unfavorably reduced. On the other hand, if it exceeds 70.0 [%], a burst in a hollow portion occurs in a post-process or when worn, and problems such as fluffing and pilling occur, which is not preferable. The outer peripheral shape of the hollow cross-sectional filament is not particularly limited, and any of a general round cross section, a polygonal cross section, a multi-lobe cross section, and a specially-shaped cross section can be applied. The cross-sectional shape of the hollow portion is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a polygonal cross section, a multi-leaf cross section, and a special deformed cross section in addition to a round cross section. The number of hollow portions in the cross section of the filament is not particularly limited, and may be one or more. The presence of the hollow cross section has an effect of making the woven or knitted fabric feel lighter in addition to the effect of improving the feeling of tension.

The polyester composite yarn of the present invention needs to be entangled with a fluid, and the number of entanglements is required to be not less than 20 [ke / m] and not more than 100 [ke / m] with respect to Di described later. It is. By the fluid entanglement treatment, the integrity of the filaments constituting the composite yarn can be increased, and the handleability in the subsequent process can be ensured. When the Di is less than 20 [ke / m], the effect of improving the handleability in the post-process such as twisting, knitting and weaving is thin, and therefore is excluded from the present invention. 100 [ke / m]
Exceeding the present invention is excluded from the present invention because the texture tends to be hard. More preferably 30 [ke / m] or more, 80
[Q / m] or less.

[0015] The polyester in the present invention is a polymer having an ester bond and has a dyeing property or a dyeing property that can be developed for use in clothing. Polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, isophthalic acid copolymer polyethylene Terephthalate, 5
-Representative examples thereof include sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate. Matting agents, antistatic agents and the like may be added to these polymers. More preferably, a polyester to which a micropore-forming agent is added can be given. The term "micropore forming agent" as used herein refers to an inorganic fine particle capable of mainly showing fine irregularities on the surface of the constituent filaments by alkali reduction treatment during dyeing, and examples of which include silica and kaolinite, but are most preferable. Is Kaolinite. After the alkali treatment, the kaolinite-containing polyester filament forms fine pores elongated in the fiber axis direction on the filament surface. The fine pores on the surface of the filament have the effect of giving the woven or knitted fabric a dry feeling like a spun yarn. The polyester multifilament B constituting the polyester composite yarn of the present invention gives a dry feeling to the composite yarn woven or knitted fabric due to its thick and thin feeling effect, but the presence of micropores on the filament surface further improves the try feeling. Kaolinite-containing polyester can be used for one or both of polyester multifilament A and polyester multifilament B.

The denier of the polyester multifilament A constituting the polyester composite yarn of the present invention is from about 0.1 denier to about 5.0 denier. The cross-sectional shape may be any of a multi-lobal cross-section, a polygonal cross-section, a hollow cross-section, and a specially-shaped cross-section in addition to an ordinary round cross-section. It is preferable that the polyester multifilament A has thick and fine spots in the fiber axis direction from the viewpoint of improving the dry feeling and improving the appearance of natural heather or marbling.

The denier of the filament constituting the polyester multifilament B is preferably relatively large in view of its bending stiffness, and may be, for example, about 1.0 to 10.0 denier.

The weight content of each of the polyester multifilament A and the polyester multifilament B in the composite yarn is preferably at least 10%.
Multifilaments and spun yarns other than the polyester multifilament A and the polyester multifilament B may be included.

Next, an example of the method for producing the polyester composite yarn of the present invention will be described.

The polyester multifilament A is obtained by melt-spinning polyester and subjecting the cold-drawn high-shrink yarn to relaxation heat treatment. The spinning speed of melt spinning is 25
A so-called POY of 00 to 4000 [m / min] can be suitably used. The stretching is performed while preheating at a temperature close to the glass transition temperature to fix the stretching point, and is drawn without heat setting to obtain a high shrinkage stretched yarn. 20% of the high shrinkage drawn yarn
The treatment is performed using a non-contact type heater at a high relaxation rate as described above. The heater temperature is related to the denier of the high shrinkage drawn yarn, the yarn speed, and the dimensions of the heater. However, it is preferable that the temperature condition is such that only the orientation is loosened so that crystallization does not proceed as much as possible. It is necessary that the SHD of the relaxed heat-treated yarn be 0% or less.

The polyester multifilament B is obtained by melt-spinning a polyester, stretching the polyester unevenly, and, if necessary,
It is obtained by heat setting and adjusting the shrinkage. At the time of melt spinning, for example, if the hole shape of the spinning nozzle is C-shaped, a hollow cross-sectional filament having a round cross-section in both the outer peripheral shape and the hollow shape of the filament can be obtained. An undrawn yarn having a spinning speed of about 2000 to 3500 [m / min] can be suitably used. For non-uniform stretching, set the preheating temperature between room temperature and glass transition temperature, select a low stretching ratio before and after the natural stretching ratio of the undrawn yarn while rubbing with a frictional resistor, and adjust the shrinkage by heat setting as necessary. , The SHD is greater than 0% and the UR is 15.0% or more. At this time, SH of polyester multifilament A
It is necessary that SHD is larger than D by 5.0% or more.

Polyester multifilament A and polyester multifilament B obtained as described above
And a fluid entanglement process is performed. As the fluid entanglement processing nozzle, a so-called interlacer nozzle or a Taslan nozzle can be suitably used. The composite yarn subjected to the fluid entanglement treatment has a Di of 2
It is necessary to be 0 [ke / m] or more and 100 [ke / m] or less.

The composite yarn is twisted, knitted, woven and dyed as required. When the twist number is twisted, the denier of the composite yarn is D, and when the twist number is T, TXD1 / 2 is 3500.
It is preferably about 0 or less. It is preferable to carry out an alkali treatment at the time of the dyeing process to reduce the weight, from the viewpoint of softening the texture and improving the drapability. When some or all of the filaments constituting the composite yarn are polyester containing kaolinite, they form micropores on the surface of the filaments,
Dry feeling is improved. It is preferable to keep the weight loss rate at about 30% in order to maintain a feeling of tension. By being dyed, the polyester multifilament B has a difference in dyeing in the fiber axis direction.

Next, the measuring method used in the present invention will be described. [SHD] (dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C) Initial load 1/10 [g / de with wrap reel around appropriate frame
n], remove the 8 turns of scalpel, and add 1/30 [g / de
n] and a length L0 [cm] is measured. Then, the load was removed and 1/1000 g / de
n) is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes under a load of [n]. Then remove the moss from the boiling water, cool it,
A load of 1/30 [g / den] is applied again, and the length L1 [cm] at that time is measured. Then 60 [° C]
And heat-treated in an oven at 160 ° C. for 20 minutes under a load of 1/1000 g / den. Next, after cooling, 1/30 [g / d
en] and a length L2 [cm] at that time is measured. The boiling water shrinkage and SHD (160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage) are calculated as follows. Boiling water shrinkage [%] = {(L0−L1) / L0} × 100 SHD [%] = {(L0−L2) / L0} × 100

[Di] (degree of entanglement) A yarn of an appropriate length is taken out and 1/1000 [g /
[den] and hang vertically. Then, an appropriate needle is inserted into the thread, slowly lifted, and the distance l [cm] traveled until the load is lifted is measured 20 times, and the average value L [cm] is calculated. Di is calculated by the following equation. Di [ケ / m] = 100 / (2 × L)

[UR] (thick and thin spots)
Measure by normal test. A slot is selected according to the denier of the multifilament, and measurement is performed at a yarn speed of 50 [m / min] for 2 minutes while applying a false twist, and 2.5 [cm]
/ Min]. At that time, adjust so that the average denier of the multifilament is drawn in the center of the chart. When the obtained chart of 5 cm is divided into two equal parts, and the maximum value of each section is H1, H2 and the minimum value is L1, L2, UR (thick spot) is calculated by the following equation. UR [%] = (| H1 + H2 |) / 2 + (| L1 + L2
|) / 2

[0027]

The present invention will be described below by way of specific examples.

[0028]

Example 1 A polyethylene terephthalate bright resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62 was melt-discharged from 18 three-lobe cross-section nozzle holes, cooled, and cooled to 3000 [m / min].
The polyester POY was obtained. The PO
Y was drawn at a preheating temperature of 80 ° C. and a draw ratio of 1.66 times to obtain a high-density drawn multifilament of 20 denier / 18 filaments. The high shrinkage stretched multifilament is prepared by using a yarn speed of 300 [m / min], a relaxation rate of 45 [%], a non-contact type heater length of 25 [cm], and a heater temperature of 260.
Relaxation heat treatment was performed at [° C] to obtain a relaxed heat-treated yarn having 30 denier / 18 filaments and an SHD of -4.2 [%]. On the other hand, a polyethylene terephthalate semi-dal resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62 is melted and discharged from 18 C-shaped nozzle holes, cooled, and taken up at a speed of 2600 [m / min]. To obtain a polyester undrawn yarn composed of a hollow cross-sectional filament having the following formula: The undrawn polyester yarn is applied to a frictional resistor heated to 110 ° C. at a preheating temperature of 76 ° C. and a draw ratio of 1.65 × 5.
The roller was contacted over a length of 0 [cm], stretched, and the temperature of the roller where the stretching was substantially completed was set to 100 [° C.] to obtain a non-uniform stretched yarn of 75 denier / 18 filaments. The SHD of the unevenly drawn yarn was 10.0 [%], and the UR was 30.0 [%]. The relaxed heat-treated yarn and the non-uniform drawn yarn are aligned and the air pressure is 3.0 kg / cm using an interlace nozzle at an overfeed rate of 0.4%.
² ) to obtain a composite yarn of 105 denier / 36 filaments. Di was 55 [ke / m].
The composite yarn is twisted at S1500 [T / m and subjected to 70 [° C.]
A wet heat setting was performed for 40 minutes, and the fabric was woven into a 2/2 twill structure at a warp density of 174 [lines / inch] and a weft density of 96 [lines / inch] to obtain a greige fabric. The greige fabric was subjected to relaxation, presetting, alkali weight reduction treatment (15%), and high-pressure dyeing with a disperse dye to brown to obtain a dyed product.
The dyed product had excellent softness, swelling, dryness and tightness, and had a favorable marbling appearance.

[0029]

Example 2 The same as Example 1 except that the non-uniform drawn yarn of Example 1 was changed to polyethylene terephthalate containing 2.0% by weight of kaolinite having an average particle size of 0.3 μm. An anti-dyeing product was obtained. Observation with an electron microscope showed that fine pores were formed on the surface of some of the constituent filaments of the dyed product, and that the dyed product had a more improved dry feeling than the dyed product of Example 1. .

[0030]

Example 3 For both the heat-treated relaxed yarn and the non-uniform drawn yarn of Example 1, a polyethylene terephthalate containing 2.0% by weight of kaolinite having an average particle size of 0.3 μm was used. Was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.
Observation with an electron microscope shows that fine pores are formed on the surface of all the constituent filaments of the dyed fabric, which is a very preferable one that further improves the dry feeling as compared with the dyed fabrics of Examples 1 and 2. there were.

[0031]

Comparative Example 1 Dyeing was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the heat-treated relaxed yarn of Example 1 was replaced with a drawn polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn having 30 denier / 18 filaments and an SHD of 3.0%. Got anti. The dyeing treatment was unsatisfactory in softness and swelling.

[0032]

Comparative Example 2 In place of the heat-treated relaxed yarn of Example 1, a heat-extensible yarn having 30 denier / 18 filaments and an SHD of -1.0 [%] was used.
[%]. The dyeing treatment was poor in softness and swelling.

[0033]

Comparative Example 3 In contrast to Example 1, a relaxed heat-treated yarn and a non-uniformly drawn yarn were simply combined and wound up without fluid entanglement treatment. In the twisting step, the unwinding property of the composite yarn was poor, yarn breakage occurred, and the weaving property was not good.

[0034]

Comparative Example 4 The dyeing process was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the cross section of the filaments constituting the non-uniform drawn yarn of Example 1 was changed to a solid circular filament and the weaving density was slightly corrected. Obtained. The dyed product had good softness, swelling, dryness, and marbling appearance, but lacked firmness and had a rough texture.

[0035]

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 5 Instead of the non-uniformly drawn yarn of Example 1, the fiber was almost uniformly oriented in the fiber axis direction and had a UR of 5.5% and a SHD of 10.0.
A dyed product was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except for changing the% to 75 denier / 18 filament polyethylene terephthalate multifilament. The dyed product had good monotonous appearance without softness, swelling and tightness, but lacked dryness and no marbling.

[0036]

As described above, the polyester composite yarn of the present invention is a composite yarn formed by a combination of a heat-extensible yarn and a heat-shrinkable yarn, so that it is possible to provide a woven / knitted fabric excellent in softness and swelling. or,
Since the heat-shrinkable yarn has thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction,
It has a dry feeling and a natural heather or marbling appearance. Since the multifilament having the thick and thin spots in the fiber axis direction, which is a heat-shrinkable yarn, is composed of a hollow cross-sectional filament, it has a moderate tension feeling. The polyester composite yarn of the present invention is a novel one that can be used for a wide range of uses such as women's clothing, men's clothing, and living materials.

Continuation of the front page (72) Inventor Hiroshi Yoshida 2-2-2 Dojimahama, Kita-ku, Osaka-Toyo Spinning Co., Ltd. In-house Examiner Kenji Sano (56) References JP-A-4-333634 (JP, A) JP JP-A-1-250425 (JP, A) JP-A-2-307930 (JP, A) JP-A-3-137237 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D02G 1 / 18 D01F 6/62 D02G 3/04

Claims (2)

(57) [Claims] 1. An entangled composite yarn comprising at least a polyester multifilament A satisfying the following formulas (1) to (3) and a polyester multifilament B having thick and thin spots in a fiber axis direction, wherein the polyester multifilament is A polyester composite yarn, wherein the filament constituting B has a hollow cross section, and has a degree of entanglement (Di) of 20 to 100 / m. SHD (A) ≦ 0 [%] ………………………… (1) SHD (B)> 0 [%] ……………………… (2) SHD (B) −SHD (A) ≧ 5.0 [%] ………… (3) UR (B) ≧ 20.0 [%] (4) (However, SHD (A) is the dry heat shrinkage [%] of polyester multifilament A at 160 ° C, and SHD (B) is polyester multifilament B (160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage [%], UR (B) indicates thick and thin spots [%] of polyester multifilament B.) 2. The polyester composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein one or both of the polyester multifilament A and the polyester multifilament B are made of a polyester containing kaolinite.