JPS63282331A - Special false twisted processed yarn - Google Patents

Special false twisted processed yarn

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Publication number
JPS63282331A
JPS63282331A JP11626887A JP11626887A JPS63282331A JP S63282331 A JPS63282331 A JP S63282331A JP 11626887 A JP11626887 A JP 11626887A JP 11626887 A JP11626887 A JP 11626887A JP S63282331 A JPS63282331 A JP S63282331A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
yarns
denier
core
false
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP11626887A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPH0768655B2 (en
Inventor
大北 順二
晋 四衢
横田 宣彦
武村 治
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kuraray Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Kuraray Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kuraray Co Ltd filed Critical Kuraray Co Ltd
Priority to JP62116268A priority Critical patent/JPH0768655B2/en
Publication of JPS63282331A publication Critical patent/JPS63282331A/en
Publication of JPH0768655B2 publication Critical patent/JPH0768655B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Fee Related legal-status Critical Current

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Abstract

(57)【要約】本公報は電子出願前の出願データであるた
め要約のデータは記録されません。
(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 〈産業上の利用分野〉 本発明は、仮撚加工糸であるにもかかわらす仮撚加工か
行なわれておらず単なる延伸糸のような風合および外観
(以下このような状態を延伸糸様と称す)を有する、ポ
リエステル繊維を主体とする嵩高性構造加工糸に関する
ものであり、本発明の構造加工糸は主としてフエミニン
調のシルクライクな衣料用分野に供せられるものである
[Detailed Description of the Invention] <Industrial Application Field> The present invention provides a texture and appearance similar to that of a simply drawn yarn (hereinafter referred to as "false-twisted yarn"), which is a false-twisted yarn but has not been subjected to the false-twisting process. The present invention relates to a bulky structured yarn mainly composed of polyester fibers, which has a "drawn yarn-like" state), and the structured yarn of the present invention is mainly used in the field of feminine silk-like clothing. It is something.

〈従来の技術および発明が解決すべき問題点〉嵩高性構
造加工糸を製造する手法として、複数の繊維糸条を合糸
仮撚する方法が知られており、通常180〜230℃の
仮撚温度および通常の撚数で仮燃するのが一般的である
。この方法を用いると組合せる糸条および仮撚条件等に
より異なる風合を生み出すことができるが、その殆んど
全てが膠着を利用した麻調風合糸、捲縮嵩高性の大さな
ウールライク風合糸であり、嵩高性を有し延伸糸様であ
り細論の構造加工糸は得鑵い。
<Prior art and problems to be solved by the invention> As a method for producing bulky structured yarn, a method of plucking and false twisting a plurality of fiber yarns is known, and usually false twisting at 180 to 230°C It is common to pre-combust at a normal temperature and twist number. Using this method, different textures can be created depending on the yarns combined and the false twisting conditions, but almost all of them are linen-like textured yarns that utilize glue, and wool with large crimped bulk. It is a like textured yarn, has bulkiness, and resembles a drawn yarn, making it a good choice for detailed structured yarns.

く問題点を解決するための手段〉 本発明者らは、延伸糸様であり、嵩高性を有する構造加
工糸を得ることを目的として研究を行なった結果、本発
明に到達した。すなわち本発明は、一方のポリエステル
繊維糸条が芯糸となり、他方のポリエステル繊維糸条が
側糸となって該芯糸に巻き付いてなる構造加工糸であっ
て、捲縮率LKs値)が5%以下、清水収縮率が6%以
上および比重が1.3750以下であり、かつ芯糸と側
糸が絡合されていることを特徴とする絹調嵩高性特殊仮
撚加工糸である。ここでKlとは、認巻取機で5000
デニール(d)の認となるまで試料を巻取った後、認の
下端中央に10gの荷重を吊して上部中央でこの認を固
定し、o、o o t yハの荷重か掛った状態で90
℃にて30分間熱水処理を行なう。ついで無荷重状態で
室温に放置して乾燥した後、ふたたび10gの荷重を掛
け5分間放置後の糸長を測定上これをLl(tm)とす
る。次に1kgの荷重を掛け30秒間放置後の糸長を測
定しL2 (1m)とする。K、は次式により求められ
る。
Means for Solving Problems> The present inventors conducted research with the aim of obtaining a structured yarn that is like a drawn yarn and has bulkiness, and as a result, they arrived at the present invention. That is, the present invention provides a structured yarn in which one polyester fiber yarn serves as a core yarn and the other polyester fiber yarn serves as a side yarn and is wound around the core yarn, and has a crimp rate (LKs value) of 5. % or less, a fresh water shrinkage rate of 6% or more, a specific gravity of 1.3750 or less, and a silk-like bulky special false-twisted yarn characterized by having core yarns and side yarns intertwined. Here, Kl means 5000 for a certified winder.
After winding up the sample until it reaches a denier (d), hang a 10g load at the center of the lower end of the denier, fix it at the upper center, and apply a load of o, o o t yc. So 90
Hydrothermal treatment is carried out at ℃ for 30 minutes. Then, after drying by leaving at room temperature without any load, a load of 10 g was applied again and the yarn length after being left for 5 minutes was measured and designated as Ll (tm). Next, a load of 1 kg was applied and the yarn length was measured after being left for 30 seconds and determined as L2 (1 m). K is determined by the following equation.

K、(ト)= ((L2−LH)/Lz ) X 10
0このに、値は、ヤーンの捲縮性による縮みの大ざざを
示すもので、大荷重を掛は捲縮を無にした時の長さと極
(少荷重(無荷重にも相当)を掛けた時の長ざの差を示
すものである。
K, (g) = ((L2-LH)/Lz) X 10
0 This value indicates the roughness of shrinkage due to the crimpability of the yarn, and the value obtained by multiplying a large load by the length when no crimp is applied (multiplying the length by a small load (also equivalent to no load)) This shows the difference in length when

通常の嵩高性構造加工糸(ウールライク風合糸)のKl
値は7〜20%である。なかには5%以下の構造加工糸
もあるが、それらは膠着糸や仮撚2段ヒーター高熱処理
系であり、いずれも仮撚1段または2段の高熱処理によ
り得られるものであり、Kl値が5%以下であっても高
熱処理の結果海水収縮率および比重が本発明で規定する
範囲から大きく外れるものである。K、値が5%を越え
る場合には、捲縮性が高(、加工糸ライクとなり、延伸
糸様のものとはならない。より好ましくはKl<49り
である。
Kl of ordinary bulky structured yarn (wool-like textured yarn)
The value is 7-20%. There are some structured yarns with less than 5%, but these are adhesive yarns or false-twisted two-stage heater high-heat treatment systems, and they are all obtained by high-heat treatment of one or two stages of false twisting, and the Kl value is low. Even if it is 5% or less, the seawater shrinkage rate and specific gravity as a result of high heat treatment are far outside the range defined by the present invention. When the K value exceeds 5%, the crimpability is high (it becomes like a textured yarn and does not become like a drawn yarn. More preferably, Kl<49).

本発明に於ける目的の独特の絹紡調の良好な風合を得る
ためには、1段および2段共に高熱処理を行なってはな
らず、低捲縮性でかつ製織後の後加工熱処理によって一
般的な加工糸とは異なる比較的大きな収縮熱変化が重要
であって、その為には清水収縮率が6%以上および比重
が1.3750以下であることが必要である。清水収縮
率が6%未満の場合や比重が1.3750を越える場合
には、生機製織後の収縮が少なく、ふくらみのある特徴
ある風合か得難いものとなり、共に本発明の目的とする
延伸糸様構造加工糸は得られない。より好ましくは清水
収縮率7%以上、比重1.370以下である。
In order to obtain the good texture of the unique silk spinning that is the object of the present invention, high heat treatment must not be performed in both the first and second stages, and low crimpability and post-processing heat treatment after weaving must be avoided. Therefore, it is important to have a relatively large shrinkage heat change different from that of general processed yarns, and for this purpose, it is necessary that the fresh water shrinkage rate be 6% or more and the specific gravity be 1.3750 or less. If the fresh water shrinkage rate is less than 6% or if the specific gravity exceeds 1.3750, the shrinkage after gray weaving will be small and the characteristic bulge texture will be difficult to obtain, both of which will result in a drawn yarn that is the object of the present invention. It is not possible to obtain textured yarns with a similar structure. More preferably, the fresh water shrinkage rate is 7% or more and the specific gravity is 1.370 or less.

一般に伸度の異なる二本の糸を合糸仮撚すると、伸度の
小なる糸が芯糸となり、伸度の大なる糸が側糸となり外
周に懲られるため、外周に廻った糸が芯糸より過大延伸
されることにより、必然的に糸長差が生じることとなる
。糸長差が存在する場合、絡合処理を付与しなければ取
扱い性が非常に不良であり、芯糸と側糸の脂分れや毛羽
の発生が激しく、得られた布帛に筋状の染色斑が多発し
易い。絡合処理は、仮撚または延伸仮撚の前に実施する
のが望ましく、仮撚後に付与すると毛羽が多発する傾向
となる。しかしながらこの毛羽の発生はスパンライクな
より絹紡調に近い風合をもたらすため、スパンライクな
絹糸調の風合を極めて重要視する場合には、仮撚後に絡
合処理を付与してもよい。
Generally, when two yarns with different elongations are combined and false-twisted, the yarn with the lower elongation becomes the core yarn, and the yarn with the greater elongation becomes the side yarn and is twisted around the outer periphery. Excessive stretching of the yarn inevitably results in a difference in yarn length. If there is a difference in yarn length, it will be very difficult to handle unless entangling treatment is applied, and the core yarn and side yarns will become oily and fluffy, and the resulting fabric will have streaks of dyeing. Spots tend to occur frequently. It is desirable that the entanglement treatment be performed before false twisting or stretch false twisting; if it is applied after false twisting, fuzz tends to occur frequently. However, the generation of this fluff results in a texture that is closer to silk spinning than spun-like, so if a spun-like silk-like texture is extremely important, an entanglement treatment may be applied after false twisting. .

次に本発明の仮撚加工糸が得られる代表的な方法につい
て説明する。まず、破断伸度差が50%以上である二本
のポリエステル繊維糸条を含む複数本の糸条を合糸して
絡合処理し、そののち80〜150℃の範囲での低温撚
セツト温度で、かつ下記式 %式% Dr:延伸後の糸条の繊度(デニール]を満足する低撚
数で仮撚または延伸(同時または連続)仮撚を行なうこ
とにより得られる。延伸の前に絡合処理を行なう場合、
延伸倍率が1.5以上、特に2.0以上とすると絡合点
が破壊され、集束性が悪化するので、芯糸となる低伸度
糸は約25001rLZ分以上の高速紡糸未延伸糸を用
いることが望ましい。しかし、芯糸に延伸糸を用いた場
合、延伸糸の物性として既に清水収縮率が8〜10%及
び比重が1.380近いものとなっているため、本発明
で規定する潜水収縮率6%以上、比重1.375 Q以
下という範囲から逸脱し易いこととなるが、このような
場合には側糸として適当なものを用い、これとの金糸に
よる平均化により本発明で規定する範囲とすることがで
き、このような加工糸からも良好な布帛が得らする。こ
のことからも明らかなように、本発明で言う比重とは、
芯糸と側糸の平均値、すなわち量比を加味し−た平均値
である。
Next, a typical method for obtaining the false twisted yarn of the present invention will be described. First, a plurality of yarns, including two polyester fiber yarns with a difference in elongation at break of 50% or more, are twined and entangled, and then twisted at a low temperature in the range of 80 to 150°C. and the following formula % formula % Dr: Obtained by false twisting or drawing (simultaneous or continuous) false twisting at a low number of twists that satisfies the fineness (denier) of the yarn after drawing. When performing combined processing,
If the draw ratio is 1.5 or more, especially 2.0 or more, the entanglement points will be destroyed and the bundling property will deteriorate, so use high-speed spun undrawn yarn of about 25001 rLZ or more as the low elongation yarn to serve as the core yarn. This is desirable. However, when a drawn yarn is used as the core yarn, the physical properties of the drawn yarn already include a fresh water shrinkage rate of 8 to 10% and a specific gravity of nearly 1.380. As mentioned above, it is easy for the specific gravity to deviate from the range of 1.375 Q or less, but in such a case, use an appropriate side thread and average it with gold thread to bring it within the range specified in the present invention. A good fabric can also be obtained from such processed yarn. As is clear from this, the specific gravity referred to in the present invention is
This is the average value of the core yarn and side yarn, that is, the average value taking into account the quantity ratio.

本発明の綿調で延伸糸様の嵩高性構造加工糸は、二本の
糸条のうち一方が芯糸となり、他方が側糸となって、二
層構造糸となっている。そこでこれらの糸から布帛にし
た場合のより一層の特徴を出すために、こ几らの繊維束
の単繊度は下記式を満足することが望ましい。
The cotton-like, drawn yarn-like bulky structured textured yarn of the present invention has two yarns, one of which serves as a core yarn and the other as a side yarn, resulting in a two-layered yarn. Therefore, in order to bring out even more characteristics when fabrics are made from these yarns, it is desirable that the single fineness of these fiber bundles satisfies the following formula.

Dr(1)≧1.3  Dr(1):芯糸の延伸後車繊
度(デニール)Dr(2J≦1.3  Dr(2):側
糸の延伸後車繊度(デニール)L)r(1)> Dr(
2) すなわち1)rfll (芯糸)を大きくすることによ
り織編物の腰を強くし、Dr12) C側糸)を小さく
(ハイカウント化)することにより繊編物のソフト感を
増すことができる。より好ましくはJ)r(1)≧2.
0、Dr(2)≦1.0である。
Dr(1)≧1.3 Dr(1): Thickness (denier) of the core yarn after drawing Dr(2J≦1.3) Dr(2): Thickness (denier) of the side thread after drawing L) r(1 )>Dr(
2) That is, 1) By increasing rflll (core yarn), the stiffness of the woven or knitted fabric can be strengthened, and by decreasing (higher count) Dr12) C side yarn), the soft feel of the woven or knitted fabric can be increased. More preferably J)r(1)≧2.
0, Dr(2)≦1.0.

また、本発明において、芯糸となる糸条の割合としては
、構造加工糸の30〜70重量%が好ましい。
Further, in the present invention, the proportion of the yarn serving as the core yarn is preferably 30 to 70% by weight of the structured yarn.

本発明の加工糸を構成しているポリエステル繊維は、エ
チレンテレフタレート単位を主体とするポリマーからな
る繊維であり、もちろん変性のために少量の他の成分(
たとえばイソフタル酸やスルフオイソフタル酸など)か
共重合されていてもよ(、また他のポリマーや添加剤成
分が混合されていてもよい。
The polyester fibers constituting the processed yarn of the present invention are fibers made of a polymer mainly composed of ethylene terephthalate units, and of course contain a small amount of other components for modification.
For example, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid, etc.) may be copolymerized (or other polymers or additive components may be mixed).

以下、実施例により本発明をざらに説明する。Hereinafter, the present invention will be briefly explained with reference to Examples.

実施例1 常法により得られたポリエチレンテレフタレートブライ
トポリマーからなる50デニール、24フイラメントの
延伸糸(伸度29.5%〕をAとする。次に、やはり常
法により得られたポリエチレンテレフタレートブライト
ポリマーから成る3000m/分の速度で巻取った80
デニール、72フイラメントの高速紡糸未延伸糸(伸度
125%)をBとする。
Example 1 Let A be a 50 denier, 24 filament drawn yarn (elongation 29.5%) made of polyethylene terephthalate bright polymer obtained by a conventional method.Next, a polyethylene terephthalate bright polymer also obtained by a conventional method 80 coiled at a speed of 3000 m/min.
A denier, 72 filament high speed spun undrawn yarn (elongation 125%) is designated as B.

これらΔとBを合糸し、予め2 、0 ky/d圧にて
、クリールからの解舒張力のみによるプリーな状態で絡
合数70個/等の絡合処理を行なった後・次の条件にて
仮撚を行なった。
After doubling these Δ and B yarns and performing an intertwining process of 70 entanglements/etc. at a pressure of 2.0 ky/d in advance using only the unwinding tension from the creel, the following False twisting was performed under certain conditions.

仮撚条件 撚   数 t s o o T/mオーバ
ーフィード     6.0%ヒ一タ一温度   95
℃ 得られた加工系の物性は次の如くであった。
False twisting conditions Number of twists T/m overfeed 6.0% heat 95
The physical properties of the resulting processed system were as follows.

K1=t、t% 沸水収縮率=8.5% 比重= 1.
365 にの糸は延伸糸様でかつ綿調の風合を有してお
り、フエミニン調のシルクライクな衣料用原糸として極
めて優れていた。
K1=t, t% Boiling water shrinkage rate=8.5% Specific gravity=1.
The yarn of No. 365 had a drawn yarn-like and cotton-like texture, and was extremely excellent as a raw yarn for feminine silk-like clothing.

実施例2 常法によりiらrしたポリエチレンテレフタレートブラ
イトポリマーを用い紡速3200m/分によって巻取っ
た75デニール、36フイラメント(伸度144%)の
高速紡糸原糸をCとする。同様のポリマーを用い、紡速
2000fi/分によって巻取った85デニール、48
フイラメント(伸度230%)の中速紡糸原糸をDとす
る。
Example 2 C is a high-speed spun raw yarn of 75 denier and 36 filaments (elongation 144%) that was wound at a spinning speed of 3200 m/min using a polyethylene terephthalate bright polymer treated in a conventional manner. An 85 denier, 48
A medium-speed spinning yarn of filament (elongation 230%) is designated as D.

これらCとDを合糸し、インターレースノズルを用い、
オーバーフィード率2%、空気圧2.5kg/dで絡合
I!55個/mの絡合処理を行なった後、次の条件にて
延伸同時仮撚を行なった。
Combine these C and D, use an interlace nozzle,
Entanglement I at overfeed rate 2% and air pressure 2.5kg/d! After performing the entanglement treatment at a rate of 55 pieces/m, simultaneous stretching and false twisting was performed under the following conditions.

仮撚条件 延伸倍率  1.45 ヒーター池1)!     120℃ 撚    数  2 t o o T、4速   度 
  200雇/分 得られた加工糸の物性は次の如くであった。
False twisting conditions Stretching ratio 1.45 Heater pond 1)! 120℃ Number of twists: 2 to o T, 4 speeds
The physical properties of the processed yarn obtained at 200 threads/min were as follows.

K1=2.9%  沸水収縮率=8.5% 比重= 1
.3683この加工糸も延伸糸様で綿調の風合に優れた
ものであった。
K1=2.9% Boiling water shrinkage rate=8.5% Specific gravity=1
.. 3683 This processed yarn also resembled a drawn yarn and had an excellent cotton-like texture.

実施例1及び2で得られた仮撚加工糸を無撚のまま経緯
使いの羽二重織物を作製した結果、無撚織物とは思えぬ
嵩高性をソフトな絹紡調の布帛が得られた。
As a result of producing a warp-textured habutae woven fabric using the false-twisted processed yarns obtained in Examples 1 and 2 without twisting, a soft silk-like fabric with a bulkiness that is unexpected from a non-twisted fabric was obtained. Ta.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 1、一方のポリエステル繊維糸条が芯糸となり、他方の
ポリエステル繊維糸条が側糸となって該芯糸に巻き付い
てなる構造加工糸であって、捲縮率(K_1値)が5%
以下、沸水収縮率か6%以上および比重が1.3750
以下であり、かつ芯糸と側糸が絡合されていることを特
徴とする絹調嵩高性特殊仮撚加工糸。 2、芯糸を構成するポリエステル単繊維繊度(Dr(1
);単位:デニール)が側糸を構成するポリエステル単
繊維繊度(Dr(2);単位:デニール)より大きく、
かつ下記式を満足している特許請求の範囲第1項記載の
絹調嵩高性特殊仮撚加工糸。 Dr(1)≧1.3、Dr(2)≦1.3
[Claims] 1. A structured yarn in which one polyester fiber yarn serves as a core yarn and the other polyester fiber yarn serves as a side yarn and is wound around the core yarn, and has a crimp rate (K_1 value) is 5%
Below, boiling water shrinkage rate is 6% or more and specific gravity is 1.3750
A silk-like bulky special false-twisted yarn having the following properties and characterized in that the core yarn and the side yarn are intertwined. 2. Polyester single fiber fineness (Dr(1)
); unit: denier) is larger than the polyester single fiber fineness (Dr(2); unit: denier) constituting the side yarn,
The silk-like bulky special false twisted yarn according to claim 1, which satisfies the following formula. Dr(1)≧1.3, Dr(2)≦1.3
JP62116268A 1987-05-12 1987-05-12 Special false twisted yarn Expired - Fee Related JPH0768655B2 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP62116268A JPH0768655B2 (en) 1987-05-12 1987-05-12 Special false twisted yarn

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP62116268A JPH0768655B2 (en) 1987-05-12 1987-05-12 Special false twisted yarn

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS63282331A true JPS63282331A (en) 1988-11-18
JPH0768655B2 JPH0768655B2 (en) 1995-07-26

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP62116268A Expired - Fee Related JPH0768655B2 (en) 1987-05-12 1987-05-12 Special false twisted yarn

Country Status (1)

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JP (1) JPH0768655B2 (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH02269829A (en) * 1989-04-05 1990-11-05 Kuraray Co Ltd Polyester textured yarn of sheath-core structure
JP2019183366A (en) * 2018-04-11 2019-10-24 帝人フロンティア株式会社 Fabric, manufacturing method thereof, and textile product

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5620627A (en) * 1979-07-26 1981-02-26 Teijin Ltd Spun like composite yarn
JPS56154531A (en) * 1980-04-23 1981-11-30 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Sewing yarn
JPS5725433A (en) * 1980-07-21 1982-02-10 Teijin Ltd False twisted two layered structure yarn showing deep black color
JPS58144112A (en) * 1982-02-12 1983-08-27 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Polyester mixed yarn
JPS59137532A (en) * 1983-01-26 1984-08-07 帝人株式会社 Special bulky yarn and production thereof
JPS60126340A (en) * 1983-12-14 1985-07-05 ユニチカ株式会社 Production of core yarn

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5620627A (en) * 1979-07-26 1981-02-26 Teijin Ltd Spun like composite yarn
JPS56154531A (en) * 1980-04-23 1981-11-30 Mitsubishi Rayon Co Sewing yarn
JPS5725433A (en) * 1980-07-21 1982-02-10 Teijin Ltd False twisted two layered structure yarn showing deep black color
JPS58144112A (en) * 1982-02-12 1983-08-27 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Polyester mixed yarn
JPS59137532A (en) * 1983-01-26 1984-08-07 帝人株式会社 Special bulky yarn and production thereof
JPS60126340A (en) * 1983-12-14 1985-07-05 ユニチカ株式会社 Production of core yarn

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH02269829A (en) * 1989-04-05 1990-11-05 Kuraray Co Ltd Polyester textured yarn of sheath-core structure
JP2019183366A (en) * 2018-04-11 2019-10-24 帝人フロンティア株式会社 Fabric, manufacturing method thereof, and textile product

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