JPH03119132A - Bulky composite yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a soft and flexible spun silk like composite yarn having dry touch and proper tension, stiffness and drape properties by forming a specific polyester multifilament and spun yarn into a composite yarn. CONSTITUTION:The aimed interlaced or twisted composite yarn being a composite yarn consisting of (A) polyester multifilament (content in composite yarn: 20-80%) composed of >=5 filaments having <=3 denier single yarn and (B) spun yarn (content in composite yarn: 80-20%) having >=3g/denier breaking strength and being >=0% in hot water shrinkage of the ingredients A and B, >=5% in difference of dry heat shrinkage between the ingredients B and A, 10-100/m in interlace pin count and 500-15000 in number of twist X D<1/2> (D is denier of composite yarn).

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a spun silk-like bulky composite yarn that is soft and flexible, has a dry touch, and has appropriate elasticity, stiffness, and drapability.

(Prior Art) Synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon have been used for various purposes such as clothing and industrial materials due to their excellent properties.

Silk-like texture is one of the targets for clothing applications, and various companies are investigating it, and in some fields, it has been found that silk-like texture has surpassed that of silk. For example, composite yarns made of multiple polyester multifilamen with different heat shrinkage properties have excellent properties such as bulge, bulk, and warm feel.
It has a unique texture and is widely used. Also, mixed yarns of polyester filaments that are elongated and filaments that are shrunk by heat treatment are also known;
Publication No. 0, JP-A-56-112537, JP-A-6
0-28515, etc. Although these products had a soft and flexible texture, the loops made of elongated and protruding filaments gave a slimy feel, and the heat treatment caused a large difference in yarn length, causing the yarns to separate, making it difficult to handle them in subsequent processes. There was a problem with sexuality.

Composite yarns of spun yarn and multifilament, and composite yarns of high shrinkage spun yarn and low shrinkage multifilament are also known, but the yarns tend to separate easily, causing problems in handling in subsequent processes. In particular, highly shrinkable spun yarns are easily hardened by heat treatment, making it difficult to control their texture.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional drawbacks, and is a spun silk-like bulky composite material that is soft, flexible, has an elegant dry touch, and has appropriate elasticity, waist, and drapability. The object of the present invention is to provide a novel bulky composite yarn that is a yarn and has no problems in passing through subsequent processes.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention has the following configuration in order to solve the problems. That is, it is a composite yarn composed of multifilament A and spun yarn B whose yarn physical properties satisfy the following range, and the composite yarn is intertwined and/or twisted with a high tangle number and a twist number within the following range. It is a bulky composite yarn characterized by the fact that

Multifilament A: single filament 3 denier or less, 5 or more
- Polyester multifilament consisting of filaments [Content in composite yarn: 20-80% C denier ratio] ... (A) Spun yarn B: Breaking strength is 3
g/denier or more (content rate in composite yarn: 8
0-20 [denier ratio])
...(B) SHW (A) 30% SHD (A) 50
%SHW(B)≧0% 5) ID(B)-8HD (,A) Number of 35% confounds 10
~100 ml/m Number of twists Explain.

FIG. 1 is a model diagram after the polyester composite yarn of the present invention is heat-treated to develop a yarn length difference.

In FIG. 1, A is a multifilament that mainly constitutes the sheath, and has been substantially elongated by high-temperature heat treatment (multifilament after spontaneous elongation). B is a spun yarn that mainly constitutes the core, and is a spun yarn that has been shrunk by heat treatment.

First, the heat shrinkage characteristics of the constituent yarns, which is the most important requirement in the present invention, will be described. The multifilament A constituting the bulky composite yarn of the present invention has a small shrinkage rate difference with the spun yarn B during normal sizing and other processes, and the multifilament A substantially exhibits shrinkage behavior. Even when sizing is done at the yarn stage, yarn length differences (bulge,
Even when compared to ordinary hetero-shrinkable blended yarns, which are completely heat-shrinkable, they do not produce many loops, loops, etc., and are much easier to handle and weave during weaving. That is, if a yarn length difference (loop) occurs in the yarn state, it goes without saying that the loops rub against each other during 15-beam weaving and get caught in guides, combs, etc., and the shedding becomes poor, resulting in a significant reduction in process passability.

Furthermore, when ordinary heat-shrinkable multifilament undergoes heat treatment during sizing, etc., the heat set is almost fixed, and even when subjected to high-temperature heat treatment of about 160 to 180 degrees Celsius during final setting, the yarn length difference is not much greater than that at the initial heat setting. However, by including multifilaments like the composite yarn of the present invention, which shrink in hot water but elongate in high-temperature heat treatment equivalent to final set, multifilaments can be formed by finishing at a higher temperature than the shrunk fabric surface as a whole. Filament A protrudes in a loop shape, providing a soft and flexible touch as if it were the surface of a peach. For this purpose, 30% SHW (A) and 50% SHD (A) are essential. SHD for further swelling and bulkiness
(B)-8HD (A) ≧5% is required, and if it is less than 5%, swelling and bulkiness are poor, and therefore it is excluded from the present invention. However, if it is too large, the protruding loops from the surface will be too large and problems such as "shininess" will easily occur during ironing, so it is preferably 50% or less. Also, for the same reason, SH
W(A) is preferably 5% or less, and 5HD(A) is preferably -159A or more.

Next, it is preferable that the elongation at break of the multifilament A is 50% or more in order to obtain a soft and flexible texture. Generally, in order to obtain a soft feel with polyester, it is easier to obtain a filament with a small SHW and a large elongation at break. As described in detail above, it is the spontaneously elongated multifilaments that form loops and cover the surface of the fabric, and the touch of these multifilaments greatly influences the touch of the fabric. However, if the elongation at break is too large, the handling properties will deteriorate, so it is preferably 100% or less, more preferably 80% or less.

Next, the yarn B which essentially forms the core must be a spun yarn. This is due to the synergistic effect of the natural touch and appearance of the spun yarn and the soft touch of the multifilament that forms the sheath, resulting in an unprecedentedly soft, flexible, and dry bulky composite yarn. .

The spun yarn mentioned here is not particularly limited, and includes cotton, wool, linen,
Natural fibers such as silk and rayon, cell and loin fibers may be used, but synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon that exhibit heat-shrinkable behavior are preferred. In particular, natural fibers and cellulose fibers are preferably blended with heat-shrinkable fibers such as polyester or composited with multifilaments in order to have heat-shrinkable properties. Further, the method of manufacturing the spun yarn may be a conventional ring or open-end method, or a bound spun yarn called a jet spinner. Next, it is preferable that the elongation at break of the spun yarn B is 40% or less, in order to prevent yarn unevenness due to elongation of the composite yarn in subsequent processes such as winding, weaving, knitting and weaving.

Furthermore, this is to prevent problems such as the knees coming off in the product after it is made into a fabric. Furthermore, since the breaking strength of the composite yarn also depends almost on the spun yarn B, the breaking strength of the spun yarn should be at least 3 g.
/denier and the denier ratio of the composite yarn must be 20% or more.

Of course, if the breaking strength is high, the proportion of spun yarn B may be slightly lower, but if it is less than 20%, it will be affected by the elongation force of multifilament A and bulge due to the difference in yarn length will not be expressed, so it is excluded from the present invention.

The hot water shrinkage rate and 160°C dry heat shrinkage rate of spun yarn B are preferably 3~θO% and 4~80%, respectively, but depending on the required texture, or when the SHD of multifilament A is small (with large elongation). (time), I don't care about this. Next, the multifilament A must have an lj yarn denier of 3 deniers or less and a filament number of 5 or more. First, I41 yarn denier is excluded from the present invention because if it exceeds 3 denier, the elongation at break is large, and even if the Young's modulus is low, the texture becomes rough and hard. However, if the filament is too thin, even a filament with an irregular cross section, which will be described later, will have no stiffness, so a denier of O12 or more is preferable. However, 3
It is fine if it contains 1 denier or more (denier mix), and the average is 3 denier or less. Further, the number of filaments may be small if the spun yarn B is thin, but if it is not at least 5, the effect of covering the yarn surface (cloth surface) will be reduced and it is excluded from the present invention. Furthermore, it is preferred that the filament has an irregular cross-section with at least one quadrant on the outer circumferential surface of the cross-section. In particular, filaments with a high breaking elongation such as the composite yarn of the present invention are soft but tend to feel slimy, so by making the cross-sectional shape irregular, the number of point contacts between the filaments increases, resulting in a soft, dry touch. . The irregular cross section herein refers to a triangular, hexagonal, flattened, hollow, etc. cross-sectional shape having at least one four parts on the outer peripheral surface of the cross-section.

Next, it is preferable that this composite yarn has a substantially core/sheath structure, because the loops tend to protrude from the surface of the fabric due to the presence of a large amount of multifilament A in the surface layer of the composite yarn. . Furthermore, the term "substantially having a core/sheath structure" as used herein means that the interface between the core and the V! ' This does not mean only a structure in which one part is divided into two parts, that is, spun yarn B and multifilament A, but the two components are mixed in the entire composite yarn, especially near the interface, and spun yarn B is divided into two parts. It also means a structure in which multifilament A is mainly arranged in the core part and multifilament A is mainly arranged in the sheath part. Within 1/3 radius from the center of the composite yarn, spun yarn B is larger than multifilament A in terms of weight ratio, and composite It is within the scope of the present invention that the multifilaments within 1/3 radius from the surface of the yarn are larger than the spun yarn B. The core/sheath structure and the denier ratio described above were measured by fixing the composite yarn with epoxy resin, cutting the cross section randomly 100 times, and observing it with an optical microscope.
From this, calculate the average value and state. Also, the degree of entanglement is 10-1
00:+/m1 Number of twists: (500-15,000) #D
It is also essential that the yarn be interlaced and/or twisted.

Since this condensed yarn is a composite of spun yarn and multifilament yarn, it is preferable to twist the yarn after interlacing, since it is less likely to be entangled, although it depends on the denier ratio, filament ratio, and number of filaments. In the case of only intertwining, if it is less than 10, the threads are likely to separate, significantly impairing process passability. However, on the contrary, the degree of confounding is 10
If it exceeds 0, interlacing spots will become noticeable on the fabric, and the monofilaments of multifilament A may break, resulting in fluff, which is not preferable. In addition, in the case of twisted yarns, since they tend to become intertwisted, it is preferable to create a tension difference or spread the multifilament A using sucker, fluid, electric force, etc. and then overlap it with spun yarn B, but this state should not be fixed. Therefore, if the number of twists exceeds at least 500/JD, it will be difficult to produce yarn length differences, and this is excluded from the present invention. In addition, the twisting direction may be determined by considering the tension balance if it is the same as the twisting direction of the spun yarn, or if it is in the opposite direction, it is necessary to keep it within the above range.

Next, as described in detail above, the spun yarn B constituting the inner layer is not particularly limited in material, structure, or manufacturing method, but preferably contains polyester fibers, and to further emphasize bulkiness, hollow fibers are used. In order to further emphasize the dry hand, at least 1
It is also preferable to use a yarn with an irregular cross section that has four parts. Furthermore, the interlaced yarn of the present invention contains multifilament A component and spun yarn B.
If necessary, both or one of the components may contain a copolymer of 5-sodium sulfonic acid metal salt, isophthalic acid, etc., or polyester fiber containing a fine powder inert substance.

Next, an example of a preferred method for manufacturing the composite yarn of the present invention will be described.

A schematic side view of a preferable composite yarn manufacturing apparatus of the present invention is illustrated in FIG. To produce polyester multifilament A with excellent spontaneous elongation, first, the spinning speed is 1500 to 40.
The undrawn yarn spun at approximately 00 m/min is drawn at a drawing temperature Tg.
-Tg+20℃ and elongation at break after stretching 30-45%, Δ
Stretch within the range of nO,LO to 0.14. Spinning speed 20
If it is less than 00 m/win, the physical properties after stretching will be unstable and thickness unevenness will become large, which is not preferable. 4000 again
If m/win is exceeded, the heat shrinkage rate after stretching will be low and spontaneous stretching/
The benign properties become low, and the texture of the mt knitted fabric is not as desired. Preferably it is 2000 to 4000 m/mln. The stretching temperature needs to be higher than Tg for stretching stability, and at temperatures higher than Tg+20°C, crystallization progresses and spontaneous extensibility decreases. Further, the stretching temperature is important for spontaneous elongation, and from the viewpoint of operability such as yarn breakage during stretching, an elongation at break of 30% or more is preferable, but an elongation at break of 45% or more is undesirable because yarn unevenness occurs. Next, Δn is 0.10
-0.14; outside this range, spontaneous elongation stability due to relaxing heat treatment is lacking. Next, a relaxing heat treatment using a non-contact heater that gives spontaneous elongation property varies depending on the denier, speed, and required elongation rate, but the heater temperature is 170~(Tm -1
0) 'C is preferred.

If the heater temperature is higher than (Tm-10)"C, the heat of the heater will melt the multifilament while the heater is stopped, reducing restartability.
Cannot be used industrially.

In addition, the relaxing take-up roller speed Vy is 100 to 150.
0 m/m! n. Relax non-contact type heater length HL is preferably 0.1 to 2 m.

The overfeed rate is preferably 20 to 60% in order to develop spontaneous elongation and stabilize the operability of relaxing heat treatment. It should be noted that a contact heater needs to be a non-contact heater because the multifilament running resistance causes insufficient yarn tension in the heater, causing roller winding and yarn breakage.

This polyester multifilament A and spun yarn B separately obtained by a known method are mixed in a denier ratio of 20 to 80%/
The total number of confounds is 10-10 so that it is 80-20%.
0 co/m or/and multifilament when not intertwined) A is substantially opened in a known manner and combined with the spun yarn to produce 500/v'D~1
Twisting is done in the same process or in separate processes within the range of 5000/7D.

With the above configuration, it is possible to obtain a spun silk-like bulky composite yarn that is excellent in handleability, spontaneous elongation, and productivity, and has a soft, flexible, dry touch, and appropriate elasticity, waist, and drape properties.

The configuration and effects of the present invention will be further explained with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited by the following examples.

(Example) Note that the measurement method implemented in the present invention is as follows.

(1) Breaking elongation According to JIS-L-1013 (1981), the sample length (gauge length) was 2 using Toyo Baldwin Tensilon.
The S-8 curve was measured at a tensile speed of 200 mm/min and the elongation at break was calculated.

■ Heat shrinkage rate (SHW), dry heat shrinkage rate (SHD) JIS
- According to L-1073, the following was carried out. That is, take a skein wound eight times with an initial load of 1/log/denier using a wrap reel with an appropriate frame circumference, apply a load of 1/30 g/denier to the skein, and measure its length of 1° (■).

Then, the load was removed, and the skein was immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes with a load of 1/1000 g/denier applied. After that, remove the skein from the boiling water, cool it down, and then use it again.
Apply a load of 30g/denier and calculate the length j'+(
m+a) is defined as δil+. 5) ID uses the same method as SHW to catch a cold! . to measure (關). Then 1/1
Dry heat 160 with a load of 000g/denier applied.
Heat treat in oven at 'C. Then, after cooling, 1/
The length when applying a load of 30g/denier! □
Measure (,,). The hot water shrinkage rate (SHW) and the dry heat shrinkage rate (SHD) are calculated by the following formula.

(3) Degree of entanglement Take out a thread of appropriate length and mark it at 1m intervals, then submerge it in water and measure the constriction of the multifilament A between the markings.

Measure 5 times and use the average value as the degree of confounding.

Noondon≠≠ Example 1-2 Comparative Examples 1-7 Heat-stretched multifilament using a normal polyester was spun at a winding speed of 3000 m/ml in a conventional manner, and the denier, DE, and SHW were drawn using a stretching-relaxing machine.

The spinning discharge amount, stretching ratio, relaxation rate, relaxation temperature, and setting time were changed so that S HD had the physical properties shown in Table 1. Spun yarn B is a 1.4 denier 58 length polyester stable lOO%.
It was processed using the stretch-relax machine shown in the figure. Here, Air Jet FG-1 manufactured by Fiber Guide Co., Ltd. was used as the air nozzle 7, and the air pressure and the feed ratio between the feed roller 6 and the delivery roller 8 were adjusted so as to obtain the target degree of entanglement. The physical properties of the raw yarn used, the yarn quality of the obtained composite yarn, and the texture of a fabric that was twisted in a conventional manner and then woven with deshin and dyed were evaluated.

In addition, as for process passability, particular evaluations were made regarding twisting, winding, and weaving properties, and the overall evaluations in terms of process passability and texture are listed in Table 1. Example 1.2 is within the scope of the invention:
Both the texture and process passability were good. In Comparative Example 1, the number of multifilament A filaments is small, so almost no filaments appear on the fabric surface, and in Comparative Example 2, the soft opening is missing because the single filament denier is thick. Therefore, as in Comparative Example 1, almost no effect of multifilament A was observed. In Comparative Example 3, the DT of the spun yarn B was low, and therefore the tension of the composite yarn was also low, resulting in frequent yarn breakage on the loom. In Comparative Example 4, multifilament A was elongated by heat treatment at 100° C., so there were many loops during sizing, and there were also problems with shedding on a loom. Comparative Example 5 is a multifilament with a high temperature (180℃
), but on the shrinkage side, there was almost no difference in heat shrinkage rate from the spun yarn, and the texture was the same as when the spun yarn and filament were aligned, and the soft and flexible texture of the present invention could not be obtained. Comparative example 6
Because there was no intertwining or twisting, the yarns separated, significantly impeding processability.

(Effects of the Invention) As described above, the bulky composite yarn of the present invention has a softer, more flexible and dry touch than conventional differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarns (including heat-stretched yarns and spun yarns), as well as moderate firmness, waist, and This has the remarkable effect of producing a knitted fabric with good drapability and excellent process passability.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a model diagram of the bulky composite yarn of the present invention that is heat-treated to develop yarn length differences. FIG. 2 is a roadside view showing an example of the manufacturing apparatus. A: Heat-stretched multifilament B: Spun yarn C: Bulky composite yarn of the present invention 3: Hot roller 5: Non-contact heater 7: Air jet nozzle

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) A composite yarn composed of multifilament A and spun yarn B whose yarn physical properties satisfy the following range, and the composite yarn is characterized by being intertwined and/or twisted within the following range. Bulky composite yarn. Multifilament A: Polyester multifilament consisting of a single filament of 3 denier or less and 5 or more filaments (content in composite yarn 20-80% [denier ratio])
) (A) Spun yarn B: Spun yarn with a breaking strength of 3 g/denier or more (content rate in composite yarn 80-20% [denier ratio])
(B) SHW(A)≧0%SHD(A)≦0% SHW(B)≧0% SHD(B)−SHD(A)≧5% Number of entanglements 10 to 100/m Number of twists×√D= 500-15,000 SHW: Hot water (100°C) shrinkage rate (%) SHD: Dry heat (160°C) shrinkage rate (%) D: Denier of composite yarn