JPH02160942A - Textured yarn with natural fiber-like structure - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject textured yarn with specified crimp modulus, boiling off shrinkage and spontaneous elongation extensibility excellent in natural fiber like flexibility and mellow feeling by false twisting filaments having mutual yarn-length difference. CONSTITUTION:Feed raw yarns 5 and 6 for the outer layer yarn and the core yarn are doubled using feed rollers (R1), then introduced to a false twist heater (H) and a false twist unit (S) and subjected to simultaneous drawing and twisting to obtain the objective yarn with 0.1-10% crimp modulus, 4.0-20% boiling off shrinkage at 98 deg.C and 0-10% spontaneous elongation extensibility.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Field of Industrial Application) The present invention relates to a polyester structured false-twisted yarn, and more specifically, it has a low crimp modulus, a high hot water shrinkage rate, and a polyester yarn with a high potential spontaneous The present invention relates to a polyester multifilament yarn having elongation ability.

(Conventional technology) The aim of conventional polyester structured yarn is to
By adding crimp and yarn length difference (difference in length between side yarn and core yarn), the aim is to create spaces between fibers, apparent thickness, and bulk. And I tried to find an advantage in these dogs. Specifically, in terms of the false twisting process (including false twisting at the same time as stretching), processing with a high number of false twists results in high crimp and large yarn length difference, resulting in high performance, strong and robust properties. Therefore, a false twist setting temperature higher than a high temperature (the crystallization temperature of polyester) is used. The intention is to increase and strengthen the deformation space and amount within the fabric. In other words, it is an attempt to imitate the amount of deformation and space that wool fabrics have.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) However, this idea is extremely unevenly distributed and lacks the basic phenomena of textiles. The biggest one is that it lacks the concept of suppleness and mellowness as a textile. All natural products, including wool, have a swelling/membrane swelling mechanism, which allows them to swell through water during the textile finishing process. There is. On the other hand, in conventional polyester structured yarns, the fibers and yarns collide violently in the fabric due to their own high crimping and strong bulk. This phenomenon is the main cause of conventional yarn fabrics becoming stiff, and is also the reason why they are unable to obtain the suppleness and roundness of the texture found in natural products.

In addition, yarns have traditionally been considered short-circuited in terms of swelling behavior and texture. In other words, the puffy texture found in natural products starts from an undistorted initial stage of deformation and undergoes repulsive deformation in response to external forces in various ways, whereas fabrics made from conventional polyester structured yarns simply exhibit a large amount of deformation. It only pursues the behavior, not the behavior itself.

For example, conventional polyester structural yarns have severe bumps and are in a hard state with distortions from the initial stage of deformation.

As mentioned above, the purpose of the present invention is not to simply eliminate the defects of conventional structural yarns, but also to actively incorporate the suppleness and rounded texture of natural fibers. It is something to do. In addition, in solving these problems,
The present invention does not attempt to find an answer in the direction toward which conventional structural threads are aimed, but rather finds an answer with a completely different idea.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention provides a polyester false twisted structured textured yarn composed of two or more filaments, which has a yarn length difference between at least two filaments, and has a crimp modulus of elasticity. 0
．． The polyester structured yarn is characterized by having a hot water shrinkage rate of 1 to 10%, a hot water shrinkage rate of 4.0 to 20% at 98°C, and a spontaneous elongation rate of 0 to 1°.

The present invention will be explained in detail below.

First, FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of a two-layered false twisted yarn according to the present invention. In the figure, (1) is a core thread, and (2) is a side thread. The core threads are less crimped than the side threads, and are mostly located near the center of the thread. The crimp of the side yarns is sharper than that of the core yarns, and they tend to be located in the outer layer of the yarn due to the length difference (yarn length difference).The main feature of the present invention is the yarn physical properties that exist together with the yarn structure. This is because the crimp elastic modulus is very small compared to conventional yarns, and the hot water shrinkage is large, and it is in the completely opposite direction to the direction that conventional yarns aim. The crimp modulus of conventional polyester processed yarn is 5.
0-60% and 98°C hot water shrinkage rate is 0.5-3%, whereas the yarn of the present invention has a shrinkage rate of about 0.1-10%, respectively.
, 4 to 20 inches. Additionally, a notable physical property of the present invention is the potential for spontaneous elongation. Specifically, it is the ability of the yarn to stretch after hot water treatment, that is, the ability to spontaneously increase in length, and generally the larger the ability, the better. In the present invention, about 0 to 10% is used.

If the hot water shrinkage rate exceeds 20%, the fabric becomes tight and stiff during fabric finishing. On the other hand, if it is less than 4%, the woven sheave will not be large and the stretchability of the fabric will be poor. Preferably 6. '0 to 14%. Regarding the crimp elasticity modulus, if it exceeds 10, the performance will be similar to that of conventional textured yarn fabrics, and the features of the present invention will not be obtained; Without this, it is difficult to obtain the characteristics of structural yarn. Preferably it is 0.5 to 8%. As for the spontaneous elongation rate, if it is less than 0.0, the woven structure will become clogged) and the flexibility will be impaired. On the other hand, if the length exceeds 10 inches, it becomes difficult to prevent wrinkles due to loosening during the presetting process. Good performance is o, 1-8%.

The woven fabric made of yarn of the present invention has a unique yarn structure and physical properties, and behaves uniquely in the finishing process, thereby satisfying the above-mentioned problems. Figures 2 (8) to (q are schematic diagrams showing cross-sections of fabrics made using the yarn of the present invention, respectively ia
It shows the changes in the state of gray fabric, relax (free hot water treatment), and preset processes in the upper process of objects. Also, (8) indicates the warp, and (4) indicates the weft. The undulating shape (hereinafter referred to as woven waves) caused by the warp threads intertwining with the weft threads is small in the greige stage and becomes large in the relaxing process. This is a phenomenon in which the yarn of the present invention has a large hot water shrinkage rate, and the length and width of the fabric become close to each other. In this process, the conventional yarn is highly crystallized and highly crimped.
Due to the false twisting process, it becomes very bulky. In an attempt to increase the volume within the space limited by the interlocking of warp and weft threads, the individual fibers and threads violently press against each other in an attempt to exclude the others. This phenomenon is more severe as the crimp modulus is higher, the hot water shrinkage rate is lower, and the fibers are highly crystalline. That is, conventionally, only one thread was used. The yarn of the present invention is
Although it has crimps, it is a yarn that is bulky and has a low crimp elasticity. In other words, although it has crimps and yarn length difference spaces, it is a yarn with a property that there is little push-pull between fibers and yarns. In addition, heat shrinkage, which is a feature of the present invention, suppresses the bulky force of crimp, and extremely reduces the pressure and friction between fibers and yarns. Combined with the increased weaving waves, the fibers and threads can move more easily, increasing the degree of freedom.

Furthermore, the decisive event of the present invention lies in the following presetting step. This step is a step to remove wrinkles generated in the previous step and to adjust the length and width of the fabric, and is a step in which dimensions are regulated and dry heat treatment is applied.

In this process, if the yarns have bulky or shrinkable properties, the amount of pressure between the fibers and the yarns will increase. Also, in order to remove "wrinkles," the yarn is stretched to a certain extent, which usually causes flattening of the woven structure. Conventionally, yarns are highly crystallized, and become hard due to the bulking force and flattening of the structure. The threads of the present invention elongate spontaneously and act in a direction that loosens the individual fibers and threads.In other words, the threads and fibers can move easily without damaging the woven wave.

This acts in the direction of increasing the degree of freedom of the tab. Therefore, a phenomenon equivalent to the swelling-membrane swelling mechanism of natural fiber fabrics occurs, resulting in a fabric in which strain is removed and the individual fibers and individual threads have a degree of freedom. This results in the suppleness and softness of natural fabrics. More specifically, in addition to the above-mentioned yarn physical properties, the more the relaxation step is sufficiently performed in the processing step, the more suppleness and mellowness can be obtained. For example, high-temperature, high-pressure relaxation or tumbler-style treatment while thoroughly kneading the cloth.

The crimp modulus, 98°C hot water shrinkage rate and spontaneous elongation rate are measured as follows.

(1) Winder's elastic modulus (K) A skein with a circumference of 1 meter is made by winding the thread 90 times.
Immerse in hot water at 90°C for 30 minutes under a load of 0019'/d. Remove the load and air dry at room temperature.

Next, the length tl of the skein under a load of 0.001 P/d is measured, and then the length t2 of the skein under a load of 0.1 f/d is measured. The crimp modulus is given by the following equation.

(2) 98℃ hot water shrinkage rate (S) Make a skein with a circumference of 1 meter by wrapping it 90 times. 0.
Measure the length to of the skein under a load of 1 f/d. 0.
000! Immerse in hot water at 98°C for 30 minutes under a load of M/d. Remove the load and air dry at room temperature. followed by 0
．． Measure the length R3 of the skein under a load of 1 f/d. 98
℃ hot water shrinkage rate is given by the following formula.

o-13 3 = xioo (%) (8) Spontaneous elongation rate (B) Take the yarn to a length of 1 meter and 1! /d load, 9
Treat with hot water at 8°C for 30 minutes and air dry at room temperature. Subsequently, the thread length (t4) was measured by suspending a load of 5 cm/d, and then dry heat treatment was performed at 180° C. for 3 minutes under the same load, and the length (t6) under the same load was measured. At this time, the spontaneous elongation rate (B) is given by the following equation.

B, =”-t4X100(%) Next, a method for manufacturing the yarn of the present invention will be described.

FIG. 3 is a diagram schematically showing an example of an apparatus for manufacturing the yarn of the present invention. In the figure, ■ is the supplied yarn that will become the side yarn, ■ is the supplied yarn that will be the core yarn, R1 is the supply roller, H is the heater, S is the false twisting unit, R2 is the delivery roller, and ■ is the two-layer imitation processed yarn. be. The supplied raw yarns (1) and (2), which become the side yarns and the core yarn, are generally undrawn yarns having different elongations at break (the side yarns have the same degree of elongation). The two supplied yarns are guided to a supply roller (R1) and are combined. Next, the false twisting heater () I), the false twisting unit (S), the delivery roller (R)
2), a drawing and simultaneous false twisting process is performed to obtain a two-layer textured yarn. In conventional false-twisted yarns and structured yarns, the false-twist cent temperature (false-twist heater temperature) is higher than the crystallization temperature of polyester (180°C), resulting in highly crystalline and highly crimpable yarns. It was created and built. In order to obtain the physical properties of the present invention, the physical properties of the supplied yarn as well as the conditions for false twisting (including false twisting at the same time as stretching) are important.

In short, it is important that the low-crystallinity yarn be stretched to low-crystallization and false-twisted. Since it is a low-crystallization false twisted yarn, the winding elastic modulus is low, and the hot water shrinkage rate is high due to low-crystallization stretching. Furthermore, since low crystallization drawing and false twisting have been applied, the yarn after heat shrinkage has the ability to spontaneously elongate. Specific false-twisting processing conditions include stretching and simultaneous false-twisting or stretching at a false-twisting set temperature of 160°C or lower, preferably 150°C or lower, and higher than the secondary transition temperature of polyester (approximately 80°C front shoulder). It is appropriate to perform false twisting. Simultaneous false-twisting below the secondary transposition temperature causes extremely large hot water shrinkage, making the fabric hard during finishing. The above conditions are excellent for having the above physical properties in a well-balanced manner.

Further, in order to obtain the yarn of the present invention, drawing and false twisting can be performed separately. Specifically, the case is shown in FIG. 3 in which the core yarn supply raw yarn is subjected to false twisting using drawn yarn. In this case, what is important is that the drawn yarn has low crystallinity and large heat shrinkage.

Specifically, although it is determined depending on the drawing speed, yarns drawn at a drawing temperature of 170° C. or lower are usually suitable. In this case, even if the yarn is drawn at a temperature below the secondary transposition temperature, it can have the above-mentioned physical properties by being heated to a temperature above the secondary transposition temperature in the next false twisting step. More specifically, undrawn yarn using a relatively high spinning take-up speed, e.g. 1200-5500 m/min.
False twisting of the drawn yarn, preferably obtained at 1900 to 3500 m/min, provides the above-mentioned physical properties, particularly the spontaneous elongation ability.

Furthermore, the undrawn yarn used in combination with this drawn yarn is suitably a yarn obtained at a winding speed of 2500 m/min or higher according to the High Speed Spinning Yarn Convention. This is because the heat shrinkage of side yarns from undrawn yarns spun at low speeds is extremely severe.

Note that the number of false twists is not particularly limited in the present invention, and a silk-like yarn can be obtained where the number of false twists is small.
A worsted yarn is obtained where the number of false twists is high. Specifically, the number of false twists (T/M) is approximately (120(1-
2200)X(150/Dr)1/2(T/1vl),
The latter is approximately (1800-2700) x (150/1
) r) 1/2 (T/M) is appropriate. However, Dr is the structural yarn fineness.

FIG. 3 is schematically shown for convenience in explaining the method for manufacturing the yarn of the present invention, and the present invention is not limited thereto. Specifically, for example, the raw yarn to be supplied is not limited to two types, side yarn and core yarn, but may be composed of three or more types of side yarn, intermediate yarn, and core yarn, that is, the target yarn is It may be a structural yarn with three or more layers, as long as it satisfies the substantial yarn length difference and the above-mentioned physical properties. Further, the supplied raw yarn may be a yarn obtained by spinning polymers having different breaking elongations using the same spinneret. In addition, the supply roller shown in Figure 3 (
One roller (Ro) is provided in front of R1), and Ro and R
Fluid processing may be performed between 1 and 1, and delivery roller (R
2) Another roller (R3) may be provided later and fluid treatment may be performed between R2 and R3. That is, the filaments constituting the structural threads of the side threads and core threads may be continuous or partially entangled or entwined in the longitudinal direction. Rather, a yarn having such a configuration is useful because it improves the handling of the yarn in twisting, weaving, etc. processes. Fluid processing includes what is commonly called interlace processing and taslan processing.

The side yarns and the core yarn may be different in terms of heat shrinkage behavior, and the present invention may be used as long as the yarn as a whole satisfies the above structure and physical properties.

As mentioned above, the present invention relates to a polyester yarn, and the term "polyester" as used herein means polyethylene terephthalate or a polyester polymer having ethylene terephthalate units as a main repeating unit.

Further details of the present invention will be explained by referring to examples.

EXAMPLES AND COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES Using the raw yarns shown in Table 1, structured polyester yarns were manufactured using the manufacturing apparatus shown in FIG. The manufacturing conditions at that time were as shown in Table 1.

Table 1 shows the performance and fabric evaluation of the obtained structural yarn.

In the following, Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 will be described in detail.

Example 1: Polyethylene terephthalate with different elongations at break for the side threads and core thread (undrawn) Using VF filament, low crystallization due to low false twist set temperature and low number of false twists, and simultaneous false twisting during stretching. This is what was done. The obtained yarn had a striated form with crimps and a difference in yarn length, and its physical properties were a low crimp elastic modulus, a high hot water absorption rate, and a spontaneous elongation of 1.8 inches. In addition, when we examined the texture and touch of the fabric, we found that the fabric had roundness, mellowness, and suppleness that could not be expressed by a single sheet of softness. And it truly had the texture of a silk fabric.

Example 2: Same as Example 1, but interlace processing was applied prior to simultaneous drawing and false twisting to impart mixed fiber entanglement between side yarns and core yarns, and improve handling during weaving of twisted yarns. It is. The yarn shape and physical properties obtained were dragon-like, and the texture of the fabric, similar to Example 1, had the roundness and suppleness of a silk fabric.

Comparative Example 1: This is a case of a conventional textured yarn, the false twist setting temperature is also 195°C, which is a high crystallization condition, and the yarn is highly crimped. The fabric was crimped during the fabric processing process and became bulky, resulting in extremely tight spots between the fibers and yarns, and the surface was hard and lacked flexibility.

Comparative Example 2: A conventional structured yarn subjected to high crystallization and high crimp false twisting. Although the fabric was softer than Comparative Example 1 due to the difference in yarn length, the fabric did not have any roundness or suppleness.

Example 3: Similar to Example 2, a drawing and simultaneous false twisting process with low crystallization and a low number of false twists was performed. In this case as well, it had a rounded feel and flexibility as in Example 2. The crimp modulus and filament degree were slightly higher than those of Actual Example 1, and when viewed as a natural fiber fabric, it was a fabric with a high quality worsted yarn texture.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram showing a side view of a double-layered false twisted yarn which is an example of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view schematically showing state changes in the greige (A), IJ Lux (B), and Precera (C) processes of the fabric using the yarn of the present invention. FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the structural yarn manufacturing apparatus of the present invention. Figure 1 Figure 2 Patent Applicant RiRa Shi Co., Ltd.

Claims (2)

[Claims] (1) Polyester false-twisted structure composed of two or more types of filaments After processing, there is a yarn length difference between at least two types of filaments, and the crimp modulus is 0.1
~10%, 98°C hot water shrinkage rate is 4.0~20%,
A structured polyester yarn characterized by a spontaneous elongation rate of 0 to 10%. (2) The structured polyester yarn according to claim 1, which has interlaced portions in the yarn length direction.