JPH05209366A - Production of highly resilient wool-like woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide the subject woven fabric comprising polyester blended yarns bearing a combination of woolly high resilience, firm texture, bulkiness, soft touch, and deep dyeability. CONSTITUTION:The objective woven fabric can be obtained by (A) applying medium to high twists on air jet-interlaced yarn made up of, as sheath yarns, relaxedly heat-treated yarns from polyester semi-drawn yarns <=5% in boiling water shrinkage rate and >=2 denier in single fiber fineness and, as core yarns, isophthalic acid-copolymerized polyester yarns or polyester yarns formable of microvoids produced by caustic reduction >=8.0% in boiling water shrinkage rate and 3.0-10.0 denier in single fiber fineness, followed by (B) weaving and then caustic reduction.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing highly repulsive wool-like, especially carded fabric, which exhibits a deep dyeing effect without flicker, and is suitable for sewing (press atari). The present invention relates to a method for producing a highly repulsive woven fabric having a touch and texture of wool which does not come out.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art A woven fabric, which is conventionally called wool-like yarn made of false twisted polyester filaments, does not have a high-grade appearance and lacks resilience if it remains bulky. Then, there is a problem that the bulkiness is insufficient. Then, Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-19733, the same 6
A false twist wound composite yarn has been developed as disclosed in, for example, JP-A-0-22096. However, even with such a yarn, in the case of the sweet twisted yarn, as in the case of the false twisted yarn, only the appearance without a high-grade feeling and the texture without a waist due to lack of repulsion due to the high bulkiness are obtained, and the wool feeling is obtained. It was far from.

On the other hand, a high-class appearance can be expressed by imparting a medium twist to a strong twist to the composite yarn and then subjecting it to alkali weight reduction processing to control bulkiness and repulsion.

However, even in this case, in order to express a strong repulsion property, it is necessary to impart a strong twist, but when the strong twist is imparted, the yarn becomes tightly packed and becomes hard, and the bulkiness is lowered. To do. Further, if such a strongly twisted woven fabric is strongly subjected to alkali reduction processing, the bulkiness is obtained, but the repulsion property is reduced and unnecessary drape property is produced. On the other hand, if the alkali reduction treatment is weakened, the repulsion property is exhibited but the bulkiness is insufficient, and as a result, it is at a level far from the wool texture in the present situation.

Therefore, in order to solve these drawbacks, it has been proposed to make the monofilament fineness of the core yarn thicker than the monofilament fineness of the sheath yarn. However, in this case, there is a new problem that unevenness occurs due to the difference in dyeing density due to the difference in single fiber fineness between the sheath yarn and the core yarn.

[0006]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to medium to strong twists,
Furthermore, by overcoming the above-mentioned problems that occur when the alkali weight reduction processing is adopted, that is, the problem of the antinomy that lies between the bulkiness and the repulsion property, there is no press hit and high wool-like repulsion property and bulkiness. The present invention aims to provide a material that has a deep dyeing effect and is free from irritation.

[0007]

According to the present invention, as a sheath yarn, a relaxation heat treated yarn of a polyester semi-drawn yarn having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 5% or less and a single fiber fineness of 2 de or more is used as a core yarn to shrink the boiling water. Rate is 8.0% or more, single fiber fineness is 3.0 to
An air-entangled yarn of 10.0 de, in which isophthalic acid is copolymerized, or a polyester yarn exhibiting a high bathochromic property by producing microvoids on the yarn surface due to alkali reduction is arranged, the thickness of the yarn ( 2,450 / depending on de)
Twisting in the range of (de) ^{1/2 to} 28,000 / (de) ^1/2 is applied, and this is used for warp and / or weft, and then weaved, relaxed, and then subjected to alkali weight loss. A method for producing a highly repulsive wool-like woven fabric is provided.

In producing the wool-like woven fabric of the present invention, first, the boiling water shrinkage is 5% or less, and the single fiber fineness is 2d.
e or more, preferably 2.5 to 4.5 de, a half-stretched relaxation heat-treated yarn of polyester filament yarn as a sheath yarn, while having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 8.0% or more, preferably 10
Polyester filament yarn having a monofilament fineness of 3.0 to 10.0 de at -16% and isophthalic acid being copolymerized or having microvoids on the yarn surface due to alkali weight loss and exhibiting a high bathochromic property is used as the core yarn. Prepare and subject both to air entanglement treatment.

Next, the obtained air entangled yarn is 2,450 / (de) depending on its thickness (denier, de).
Weaving is carried out by using medium to strong twist yarns in the range of ^{1/2 to} 28,000 / (de) ^1/2 for warp and / or weft. Then, the finally obtained woven fabric is subjected to alkali weight loss.

In the present invention, the sheath yarn of
As the relaxation heat-treated yarn of the polyester semi-drawn yarn, for example, a polyester semi-drawn yarn having a single fiber fineness of about 2 de or more, obtained at a take-up speed of 2,200 to 4,500 m / min, has an overfeed amount of 0.5 to 5.0. %, Non-contact type heater temperature 160 to 210 ° C., 0.01 to 0.30 seconds.

In this case, examples of the polyester constituting the filament include a normal polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer and the above-mentioned polymer obtained by copolymerizing the third component. Isophthalic acid is particularly preferable as the third component. Further, a polymer that forms microvoids on the filament surface after the alkali weight loss (polymer having a fine pore-forming agent introduced) is also preferably used.

On the other hand, the core yarn must be made of polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5 to 30 mol% of isophthalic acid, or a polymer which forms microvoids by the subsequent alkali reduction treatment. Regarding the latter, for example, JP-A-57-1124
No. 64, No. 57-103518 and the like.

The physical properties of the core yarn must be such that the boiling water shrinkage ratio is 8.0% or more, preferably 10 to 20%, and the single fiber fineness is 3.0 to 10.0 de. Further, the core yarn preferably has an elongation of 45 to 60%.

The above and above yarns are together subjected to an air entanglement treatment. In this case, the usage ratio of both is: = 2
It may be 5:75 to 75:25 (weight). The air entanglement may be either interlacing or Taslan processing.

It should be noted that the amount of feed relating to the difference in length between the sheath yarn and the core yarn is generally such that the overfeed amount of the sheath yarn is 10% or less, and that of the core yarn is 1.0. %
It is preferable to adjust the overfeed difference between the sheath yarn and the core yarn in the range of 1.0 to 9.0%.

The air entangled yarn thus obtained has
2,450 / (de) ^1/2 depending on its thickness (de)
In the range of ˜28,000 / (de) ^1/2 , strong twisting is performed to obtain a twisted yarn, and this twisted yarn may be subjected to post-treatment such as sizing and heat setting, if necessary.

In the present invention, such a twisted yarn is warped and / or
Alternatively, it is woven by using it as a weft and subjected to a relaxing heat treatment, or simultaneously with this, alkali weight reduction is performed. In this case, the alkali weight loss rate may be appropriately selected from the range of 5 to 30% by weight depending on the desired repulsion property, bulkiness and the like.
Naturally, the single fiber fineness of the core yarn and the sheath yarn is
Even after the alkali weight reduction treatment, each is 3 de or more,
And must be maintained above 2 de.

[0018]

As is apparent from the above description, the present invention uses the silky texture of the different shrinkage mixed fiber which has been conventionally adopted as a means for obtaining the silky texture having the drape effect. It was devised so as to have a completely different wool-like texture, and succeeded in expressing a wool-like woven fabric very similar to a worsted woven fabric by an additive combination of medium to strong twist and alkali weight reduction processing.

The significance of each constituent element of the present invention for expressing wool-like texture and characteristics will be described below.

First, the following required characteristics can be mentioned as the wool-like texture and characteristics. A. General required characteristics No irritability. There is a deep-dyeing effect (deep color effect) in any hue. In particular, it is well known that the black bathochromic effect is required for wool. There is no press hit when sewing.

B. Wool touch Span and sliminess Bulkiness and softness Elastic waist and repulsion

However, the relationship between the above-mentioned required characteristics and each constituent element of the present invention is as follows. A- (elimination of irritability) A combination of a relaxation heat treatment (sheath yarn) of a polyester semi-drawn yarn and a polyester filament yarn copolymerized with isophthalic acid, or a polyester yarn (core yarn) that produces microvoids on its surface due to alkali reduction.

As is well known, the fatal defect of the conventional hetero-shrinkage mixed yarn is irritability caused by the difference in physical properties between the core and the sheath. In the present invention, this problem of irritability is solved by utilizing the fact that the dye exhaustion rates of both yarns are close to each other at a high level.

In addition, the relaxation heat treatment yarn of the polyester semi-drawn yarn is used for the sheath yarn which is present in a relatively large amount on the yarn surface, not only eliminates the irritability but also gives the peculiar fiber structure a preferable result in the texture. With this unique fiber structure,
This means that the crystal molecules are randomly oriented, which may cause a particular slimy feeling and self-expansion. By the way, in the ordinary drawn yarn, the crystal molecules are almost oriented along the fiber axis direction.

A- (Dark dyeing effect) As described in A-, both the core yarn and the sheath yarn show a high level of dye exhaustion rate. Particularly, in the relaxation heat-treated yarn of the polyester semi-drawn yarn which is the sheath yarn, the dye is uniformly exhausted in the filament cross section because the crystal molecules are randomized as described above.

A- (elimination of press-fit) This is because the single fiber fineness of the sheath yarn is 2.0 de or more.
If the monofilament fineness of the sheath yarn is too small, the monofilament of the sheath yarn appears as a loop on the surface of the fabric in the heat treatment after forming the fabric, which causes the warp during sewing.

B- (Expression of span feeling and slimy feeling) A span feeling can be obtained by the air-entangled structure of the sheath yarn and the core yarn. At the same time, a special slimy feeling is emphasized by the unique fiber structure of the sheath yarn itself.

B- (Securing bulkiness and softness) The boiling water shrinkage ratio of the sheath yarn is set to a range of 3% or less to (extends to the self-stretching region), while that of the core yarn is set to 8% or more. ..

Here, it is necessary that the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester semi-drawn yarn of the sheath yarn is 5% or less by the relaxation heat treatment after the yarn is combined with a yarn having a high boiling water shrinkage as a core yarn to form a woven fabric. This is to give bulkiness. Therefore,
If the boiling water shrinkage ratio of the sheath yarn is high, even if the boiling water shrinkage difference between the core yarn and the sheath yarn is high, the sheath yarn shrinks by the heat treatment after forming the woven fabric, and the desired bulkiness cannot be obtained. Self-extensible yarns are preferred.

On the other hand, as the core yarn, the boiling water shrinkage rate is 8.0.
% Polyester yarn is arranged. However, if the boiling water shrinkage ratio is too high, the elongation recovery is poor at the time of making the fabric, and distortion (laughter) occurs, so the upper limit is set to at most 25%. On the other hand, when the boiling water shrinkage ratio is less than 8%, the difference in yarn length from the sheath yarn becomes small, and wool-like bulkiness cannot be obtained. From this viewpoint, the yarn having the boiling water shrinkage ratio is arranged. The preferable range of the boiling water shrinkage ratio is 12 to 20%.

In the air entanglement processing of these yarns, the overfeed amount of the sheath yarn is 10% or less, the overfeed amount of the core yarn is 1.0% or more, and the overfeed difference between the sheath yarn and the core yarn is The most appropriate span touch and airy feeling can be imparted when performing 2-feed air entanglement processing of 1.0 to 9.0%. In addition, the yarn obtained by air-entanglement processing under such conditions is likely to be polarized in each component of the core-sheath because the conventional false twist wound composite yarn has a difference of about 15 to 20%. The woven fabric is poorly kneaded, the resulting woven fabric does not have the drawback of being fluffy, the yarn is entirely kinked, and has a structure closer to that of wool.

In this case, the overfeed amount of the sheath yarn is 1
If it exceeds 0%, the loop feeling becomes too strong and the touch becomes uncomfortable, and the fastener phenomenon occurs. In addition, the weaving tends to be poor during weaving, and squeezing tends to occur. On the other hand, if the overfeed amount of the core yarn is less than 1%, the entanglement with the sheath yarn is not successful.

However, due to the appearance of bulkiness and softness due to the air entanglement process, it is undeniable that the repulsion and the waist of the woven fabric are hindered, as described at the beginning. Therefore, it is the imparting of medium to strong twist before weaving and the alkali weight reduction process after weaving that relaxes and restores the reduced elasticity and rebound while maintaining bulkiness and softness.

B- (Securement of tension and resilience) Basically, the single fiber fineness of the core yarn controls the tension and resilience of the woven fabric. From this viewpoint, the monofilament fineness of the core yarn is 3.
It is necessary to be 0 to 10.0 de. This is 3.
If it is too thin as less than 0 de, the elasticity and resilience of wool-like cannot be obtained no matter how the number of twisted yarns is adjusted after the fact. On the other hand, if it exceeds 10.0 de, wrinkles with a crease are generated when the fabric is formed. Considering these points, the single fiber fineness of the core yarn is preferably 3.0 to 6.0 de in the separate-drawing method and 4.0 to 10.0 de in the direct-drawing method.

However, simply setting the single fiber fineness of the core yarn to 3.0
Wool-like resilience and firmness cannot be obtained simply by keeping the amount at ~ 10.0 de. In other words, by relaxing the bulk of the fabric by heat treatment (bulkup),
This is because the resilience and the elasticity are reduced accordingly. It is the above-mentioned medium-to-strong twist yarn before weaving and the alkali weight-reducing process after weaving to overcome this trade-off.

That is, by imparting a medium to strong twist in advance, the resilience and the decrease in the elasticity caused by the relaxation heat treatment are compensated for, and on the other hand, the soft feeling which is hindered by the twisted yarn,
The decrease in bulkiness is intended to be recovered by the alkali weight loss of the air-entangled yarn having the twisted yarn structure.

In connection with the present invention, a polyester semi-drawn yarn is arranged as a sheath yarn of an air-entangled yarn having a core-sheath structure to obtain a fabric having an improved wrinkle recovery property.
No. 526 is disclosed. It is also described in the same publication that a polyester yarn obtained by copolymerizing a third component to make it highly shrinkable may be used as the core yarn, and isophthalic acid is exemplified as one of the third components. ..

However, this publication merely discloses, as the object of the invention, "improvement of wrinkle recovery", and does not suggest the problem of satisfying the characteristics of the overall wool-related products as in the present invention. .. further,
In the publication, the single fiber fineness of the sheath yarn and the core yarn, which is an essential requirement for solving the problem of the present invention, a specific twisting range,
There is no teaching about the effect of the combination of the alkali reduction of the cloth and the cloth.

[0039]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples. Example 1 80 de obtained by spinning at a spinning speed of 3,200 m / min
/ 24 filament (single fiber fineness 3.3 de) polyester semi-drawn yarn, overfeed amount 1.5%, set temperature 185 ° C. (plate heater), heat treatment time 0.
A yarn which was treated for 05 seconds and had a boiling water shrinkage of 0% was used as a sheath yarn. On the other hand, another drawing thread 75d having a boiling water shrinkage of 15%, which was obtained from a polyester copolymerized with 10.0% of isophthalic acid
The e / 15 filament (single fiber fineness 5 de) was used as the core yarn. Under the core yarn overfeed amount of 3% and the sheath yarn overfeed amount of 7%, compressed air pressure of 8 kg / cm ² ,
Taslan processing was performed at a speed of 400 m / min to obtain an air-entangled mixed fiber having a core-sheath structure.

The obtained air-entangled mixed yarn is 1,200 T /
M [15,300 / (de) ^1/2 ; de = 163] twisted yarn is used as warp and weave, with a 2/2 twill structure, greige density warp 42.2 / cm, weft 21.9 / Cm was woven.
This greige machine was pre-relaxed for 20 seconds at 100 ° C., relaxed for 40 minutes at a top temperature of 120 ° C. with a circular relaxer, air-dried, and then pre-set for a sufficient period of time to shrink to a weft, and then an alkali weight loss of 13% by weight was performed. Then, dyeing was performed for 60 minutes at 135 ° C. using a disperse dye with a jet dyeing machine to finish.

The dyed cloth obtained was free of irritability, and the dyed cloth had a black coloring property with an L value of 9.87, and also had favorable elasticity, high repulsion property and bulkiness. It was a woven fabric similar to. Table 1 shows the evaluation of each texture characteristic. Also, this dyed cloth is heated at 150 ° C. for 5 hours with a dry iron.
When press aging was evaluated by a test method comparing with a limit sample under the condition of a pressure of 14 g / cm ² for a second, no aging phenomenon was observed at all.

Example 2 75 de / 12 filaments having a boiling water shrinkage of 16% (single fiber fineness) obtained by extra-drawing from a polyester undrawn yarn blended with 0.5% by weight of dimethyl calcium phosphate as a core yarn. Example 1 except using 6.3 de)
Yarn processing and fabric finishing were performed in the same manner as in 1. to obtain a dyed fabric (L value = 9.91). The obtained dyed cloth was obtained in Example 1.
Similar to the above, it had the intended effect of the present invention.

Comparative Example 1 In Example 1, the sheath fiber monofilament denier was 1.5 de
The same operation as in Example 1 was performed except that

Comparative Example 2 In Example 1, the single yarn denier of the core yarn was 2.5 de
The same operation as in Example 1 was performed except that

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 In Example 1, the sheath fiber monofilament denier was 1.5 d.
e, the same operation was performed except that the core yarn was 2.5 de.

Comparative Example 4 In Example 1, the number of twisted yarns was 131 T / m [2,200
/ (De) ^1/2 ], the same operation as in Example 1 was performed.

Comparative Example 5 In Example 1, the number of twisted yarns was 2362 T / m [30,0].
00 / (de) ^1/2 ], except that the same operation as in Example 1 was performed.

The following feelings of the dyed fabrics obtained in Comparative Examples 1 to 5 and Example 1 were evaluated. At the same time, the texture of the woolen fabric corresponding to the dyed fabric of Example 1 was measured in the same manner, and each texture of the woolen fabric was evaluated as 5th grade. The results are shown in Table 1.

Each texture was judged by the following method. Spun feeling The feeling of fluff on the surface of the woven fabric was subjected to a sensory evaluation and graded into 5 grades. Feeling slimy HV (hand value) is measured and graded from KES (men's winter suit texture). Bulkiness The bulkiness was graded to 5 by measuring the levels of wool worsted (St) and each level.

Soft feeling WC (compression work) of the compression characteristic of KES was graded into 5 grades. Tension BES of bending property of KES was graded to grade 5. Waist KES (men's winter suit texture) was measured for HV and graded as 5th grade. Repulsion property 2HB (hysteresis width) of bending property of KES was graded into 5th grade.

[0051]

[Table 1]

[0052]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, a conventional technique known as a means for obtaining a wool-like texture to some extent, that is, a false-twisted composite yarn is imparted with medium to strong twist, then woven, and alkali-reduced. In the process, in place of the false twist wound composite yarn, by adopting an air entangled yarn in which the single fiber fineness of the sheath yarn and the core yarn is specified, this entangled structure gives post-medium to strong twist, after weaving. Provided is a wool-like woven fabric which is remarkably improved by being compatible with the alkali weight reduction treatment of.

This means that, although the present invention uses polyester filament yarn as a starting raw yarn, synthetic wool is used as a natural wool by approximating the texture and characteristics of natural wool composed of short fibers. It means opening the way, and its industrial significance is enormous.

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Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A relaxation heat treated yarn of a polyester semi-drawn yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 5% or less and a single fiber fineness of 2 de or more as a sheath yarn, and using a boiling water shrinkage of 8.0% or more as a core yarn. An air-entangled yarn having a fineness of 3.0 to 10.0 de and having an isophthalic acid copolymerized, or having a polyester yarn exhibiting a high bathochromic property by producing microvoids on the yarn surface due to alkali weight loss, 2,450 / (de) ^{1/2 to} 28,000 / (d depending on the thickness (de) of the thread
e) A highly repulsive wool-like woven fabric characterized by being twisted within the range of ^1/2 , weaving this using it for warp and / or weft, then relaxing heat treatment, and then subjecting to alkali weight loss. Manufacturing method. 2. The air-entangled yarn has an overfeed amount of the sheath yarn of 10% or less, an overfeed amount of the core yarn of 1.0% or more, and an overfeed difference between the sheath yarn and the core yarn of 1.0 to.
The method for producing a highly repulsive wool-like woven fabric according to claim 1, which is air entangled at 9.0%.