JPH0424283A - Production of spun yarn fabric-like cloth - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain a spun yarn fabric-like cloth rich in voluminous feeling by weaving the cloth from specific combined yarn of crimped yarn prepared from multifilament yarn constructed from split type fiber splittable into superfine fiber and multifilament yarn having physical properties different from those of the aforementioned yarn and then subjecting the resultant fabric to splitting and shrinking steps. CONSTITUTION:Both crimped yarn prepared by false twist texturing multifilament yarn constructed from splittable type fiber of joined superfine fiber (1b) having <=0.3d single filament size after splitting and multifilament yarn constructed from thick-size fiber having a higher shrinkage factor in boiling water and a larger size than those of the superfine fiber at a higher feed ratio of the aforementioned crimped yarn are fed to a well-known fluid turbulent nozzle to provide combined yarn having the multifilament yarn as core yarn, the crimped yarn as sheath yarn and many small-sized loops due to the crimped yarn formed on the surface thereof. The resultant combined yarn is then used as warp yarn and/or weft yarn and woven and the obtained cloth is then subjected to alkali treatment to split and produce superfine fiber and shrink the thick-size fiber with hot water. Thereby, the objective soft cloth having spun yarn fabric-like hand is obtained in spite of the filament yarn used.

Description

[Detailed description of the invention] [Industrial application field]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a fabric that exhibits a spun-like texture while using multifilament yarns.

[Conventional technology]

Conventionally, various methods have been proposed as methods for obtaining spun-like fabrics using multifilament yarns. In particular, methods using ultrafine fibers have been proposed as follows. For example, in the method described in JP-A-64-14367, both a general multifilament yarn and a multifilament yarn made of fibrillated composite fibers are bulk-processed simultaneously using an air injection method to form fibrils. A process of obtaining a composite yarn in which the type composite fiber serves as a sheath and a general multifilament yarn as the core, and after weaving this composite yarn as a weft, the fibrillated composite fiber is subjected to an alkali weight reduction treatment to become fibrillated. A spun-like fabric is produced by the process of making ultrafine fibers. In addition, the method described in JP-A-1-186897 uses both ordinary multifilament yarns and multifilament yarns made of split polyester composite fibers.
Two or more fibers are pulled together, false twisted and interlaced to obtain a composite yarn, and after weaving using this composite yarn, the splittable composite fiber is subjected to alkali weight loss treatment and split to form ultrafine fibers. This process produces spun-like fabrics. However, in method (2), since the fibrillated composite fibers used are in a straight state, coarse loops are likely to be formed on the surface of the composite yarn. Coarse loops make it difficult to handle the composite yarn; for example, when unwinding the composite yarn from a package, the loops become entangled with each other, causing yarn breakage and unwinding spots, which can reduce the operating rate in the weaving process. , and also had the disadvantage of deteriorating the quality of the obtained fabric. In addition, since both the fibrillated composite fibers and general multifilament yarns used are in a straight line, the yarn density of the composite yarns is high, making it difficult to fibrillate, or the fabric obtained does not have a sufficient polyurethane feel. there were. In addition, method (2) had the disadvantage that it was difficult to obtain a spun-like fabric because no loop fuzz was present on the surface of the composite yarn. Furthermore, since false twisting is performed when manufacturing composite yarns, heat is applied to general multifilament yarns at this point, causing them to shrink, making it difficult for them to shrink after the fabric has been created, resulting in shrinkage of the fabric. This has the disadvantage that it becomes difficult to give a sense of volume.

[Problem to be solved by the invention]

Therefore, the present invention aims to obtain a composite yarn by using a special yarn as a multifilament yarn composed of splittable fibers in combination with a multifilament yarn having physical properties different from this yarn. The present invention aims to improve weaving properties by forming small loops in the yarn, and to provide a spun-like fabric with a rich sense of volume without hindering the splitting of splittable fibers.

[Means to solve the problem]

That is, the present invention includes the steps of false twisting a multifilament yarn made of splittable fibers made by joining ultrafine fibers with a fineness of 0.3 denier or less to prepare a crimped yarn;
a step of preparing a multifilament yarn composed of large fineness fibers that have a higher hot water shrinkage rate than the ultrafine fibers and a fineness larger than the ultrafine fibers; a step of supplying both to a fluid agitation nozzle such that the supply rate of the crimped yarn is higher than that of the crimped yarn to form a loop fluff of the crimped yarn to obtain a composite yarn; weaving as warp and/or weft to obtain a fabric, splitting the splittable fibers in the fabric to generate the ultrafine fiber group, and applying hot water to the fabric to produce the thick fibers. The present invention relates to a method for producing a spun-like fabric, which comprises a step of shrinking a spun-like fabric. The crimped yarn prepared in the present invention is composed of splittable fibers formed by joining ultrafine fibers. The fineness of this ultrafine fiber is 0.3 denier or less. If the fineness exceeds 0.3 denier, it is undesirable because the obtained fabric will not have softness or sliminess. It can be obtained by processing.In other words, crimp is applied to the yarn by false twisting.The conditions for this false twisting are as follows: the number of false twists is 10,000.
It is preferable that the number of false twists is 10,000/(D is the fineness of the splittable fiber.)
D'''), it tends to be difficult to obtain small loops in the subsequent step of obtaining a composite yarn.As the splittable fibers constituting the crimped yarn, various conventionally known ones can be used. For example, a hollow split type fiber made of a plurality of wedge-shaped ultra-fine fibers (1b) bonded together with a binder (1a) as shown in Fig. 1, or a wedge-shaped ultra-fine fiber (lb) as shown in Fig. 2 can be used. A plurality of split fibers are used, which are made by bonding a plurality of split fibers with a bonding agent (LA).
By removing 1a), the splittable fibers are split and become bundles of ultrafine fibers (1b). In addition, in the splittable fiber, the weight ratio of the ultrafine fiber (1b) and the binder (1a) is as follows: ultrafine fiber (lb):binder (la) = 70~
95: It is preferable to set it as 30-5. If the proportion of the bonding agent (1a) is greater than this range, the amount of the bonding agent (1a) removed in the subsequent dividing step will increase, resulting in a tendency to be uneconomical.
If the proportion of 1a) is lower than this range, the splittable fibers tend to be difficult to split. Although various conventionally known compositions can be used as the composition of the ultrafine fibers, it is particularly preferable to use polyester type ultrafine fibers in the present invention. In particular, the ultrafine fiber (1b) is made of a polyester polymer with low alkali solubility, and the binder (1a) is made of a polyester polymer with high alkali solubility. It is preferable to do so. As polyester polymers with low alkali solubility,
A polyester containing at least 95 mol% of ethylene terephthalate structural units is generally used, and as a highly alkali-soluble polyester polymer, 1 to 5 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid and 10 to 40% by weight of polyethylene glycol are used. Copolymerized polyesters containing polyesters are commonly used. When such polyester-based splittable fibers are used, a bundle of ultrafine fibers is produced by removing the binder (Ia) with an alkaline aqueous solution or the like. In the present invention, apart from the crimped yarn made of the above-mentioned splittable fibers, a multifilament yarn made of thick fibers having a fineness larger than that of the ultrafine fibers (1b) is prepared. The hot water shrinkage rate of this thick fiber is larger than the hot water shrinkage rate of the ultrafine fiber (1b). Specifically, the fineness of the thick fiber is preferably 1 denier or more. When the fineness of the thick fiber is less than 1 denier, the resulting fabric tends to lack stiffness or tension. Further, the hot water shrinkage rate of the thick fiber is preferably 3% or more greater than the hot water shrinkage rate of the ultrafine fiber (1b). When the difference in hot water shrinkage rate is less than 3%, the gaps between the filaments of the composite yarn obtained in the subsequent process become small, and the splittable fiber tends to be difficult to split. Further, there is a tendency that it becomes difficult to impart a sense of volume to the resulting fabric. Here, the method for measuring the hot water shrinkage rate is as follows. That is, fix one end of the fiber and attach (1/10) g to the other end.
/ d [However, d is denier. ] Apply the initial load, measure 500mm correctly, and mark two points. Thereafter, the initial load is removed and the sample is immersed in boiling water for 30 minutes, then taken out, lightly drained with absorbent paper or cloth, and air-dried in a horizontal position. After that, apply the initial load again and measure the length between the two points! Plan the government. More than! The measurement of = is carried out 10 times each, and the shrinkage rate is calculated using the formula [(500-ml 1500 ) x100, and the average value is taken as the hot water shrinkage rate (%). As for the composition of the thick fiber, any of the conventionally known compositions can be used, but especially when it is desired to obtain a heathered texture,
It is preferable to use cationically dyeable polyester or polyamide. Moreover, when it is desired to obtain a plain-colored fabric, it is preferable to use general polyester. Both the crimped yarn and the multifilament yarn prepared as described above are supplied to a fluid agitation nozzle to obtain a composite yarn. At this time, in the present invention, the supply rate of the crimped yarn must be greater than the supply rate of the multifilament yarn. In particular, the supply rate of crimped yarn is 3 to 30% higher than that of multifilament yarn.
% is preferable. When the supply rate is less than 3%, loop fluff tends to be less likely to be formed on the surface of the resulting composite yarn. Moreover, if the supply rate exceeds 30%, there will be a tendency for small loop fluff to be less likely to be formed. Specifically, the overfeed rate of the multifilament yarn to the fluid disturbance nozzle is set to 0-10%,
The overfeed rate of the crimped yarn to the fluid disturbance nozzle is set to 3.
It is preferable to set it to 30%. Note that the fluid disturbance nozzle used in this step may be a conventionally known one such as a Taslan nozzle, and any type may be used as long as it can form a loop fluff. In particular, it is preferable to use the fluid agitation nozzle described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 34-8969. The composite yarn obtained by the above method has an appearance as shown in Figure 3, with the multifilament yarn (X) serving as the core yarn,
The crimped yarn (Y) becomes a sheath yarn, the multifilament yarn (X) and the crimped yarn (Y) are mixed and intertwined, and the crimped yarn (Y) forms a small loop fluff. (W) is formed on its surface. Next, this composite yarn is woven as a warp and/or a weft,
Get the dough. At this time, the weaving may be carried out using composite yarns only for the warp or weft, or it may be weaved using composite yarns for both the warp and weft. In this weaving process, the process of first winding the composite yarn into a package and then unwinding it for weaving is called ``funetsuri.'' After this, the splittable fibers in the obtained fabric are split. This dividing means may employ a conventionally known method. For example, splittable fibers as shown in FIG. 1 or 2, made of a polyester polymer with low alkali solubility as the ultrafine fibers (1b), are used, and as the binder (1a), When using a polyester polymer having high alkali solubility, it is preferable to dissolve and remove the binder (1a) with an alkaline solution and divide the polyester fibers. When dividing with an alkaline solution, it is preferable to use an alkaline aqueous solution with a concentration of 1 to 10 g/l. Further, it is preferable that this division be performed simultaneously with the refining step, or in a continuous or batch manner after desizing refining and intermediate setting. In particular, the former method is preferred from the economic point of view. At the same time as or after splitting the splittable fibers, the fabric is immersed in warm water to shrink. To shrink the fabric at the same time as dividing it, the fabric can be immersed in an alkaline aqueous solution at a certain temperature or higher. In addition, in order to shrink the dough after dividing it, the dough may be immersed in warm water. When shrinking the fabric, the thick fibers have a higher hot water shrinkage rate than the ultrafine fibers (1b), so the thick fibers mainly contract, and the ultrafine fibers (1b) rise to the surface of the fabric. Therefore, the obtained fabric has a texture similar to downy hair and is a spun-like fabric with a sense of volume.

[Effect]

In the present invention, a multifilament yarn and a crimped yarn are used in combination, and the supply rate of the crimped yarn is increased and the crimped yarn is supplied to a fluid agitation nozzle to obtain a composite yarn. A small loop fuzz consisting of crimped threads is formed. For example, even when a composite yarn is wound into a package, the small-sized loop fluff does not have a negative effect on the unwinding property of the composite yarn. In addition, since the crimped yarns are mixed and entangled in the composite yarn,
The gap between each filament is large, so that the splitting process is rarely hindered when splitting the splittable fibers. Furthermore, in the present invention, since the thick fibers constituting the core yarn of the composite yarn have a higher hot water shrinkage rate than the ultrafine fibers constituting the sheath yarn of the composite yarn, the fibers constituting the core yarn of the composite yarn have a higher hot water shrinkage rate. When the fabric is subjected to hot water shrinkage after treatment, the ultrafine fibers, which have a low hot water shrinkage rate, increase their lift.

【Example】

As the splittable fibers, splittable fibers as shown in FIG. 2 were used. Here, the component of the wedge-shaped ultrafine fiber (1b) is polyethylene terephthalate. Also, bonding agent (1a)
The component is a copolymerized polyester consisting of 28% by weight of polyethylene glycol and 2% by mole of sulfoisophthalic acid. The weight ratio of the ultrafine fiber (1b) and the binder (1a) is: ultrafine fiber (lb): binder (la) = 4
: It is 1. This splittable fiber was used to make a multifilament yarn of 70 denier/48 filaments, and this yarn was subjected to a false twisting process at a false twist number Z=2000T/M to form a crimped yarn. Fine crimps were formed in each filament in this crimped yarn, and many gaps were also formed between the filaments. The hot water shrinkage rate (synonymous with the hot water shrinkage rate of ultrafine fibers) of this crimped yarn was measured and found to be 4%. On the other hand, a 50 denier/24 filament multifilament yarn made of thick fiber was prepared. The component of the large fineness fiber is a copolymer of polyethylene terephthalate and 10 mol% of isophthalic acid, and the cross-sectional shape of the large fineness fiber is circular. Further, the hot water shrinkage rate of this thick fiber was 8%. Both the crimped yarn and the multifilament yarn described above were simultaneously supplied to a fluid agitation nozzle described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 34-8969. At this time, the overfeed rate of the crimped yarn was 25%, and the overfeed rate of the multifilament yarn was 8%. In addition, the air pressure at the fluid disturbance nozzle is 6 kg/d.
Met. The composite system thus obtained has a multifilament yarn as the core yarn, a crimped yarn as the sheath yarn, and a large number of small loops made of the crimped yarn formed on the surface of the composite yarn. was. This composite yarn was then wound into a package. This composite yarn is used as the weft, and a polyester multifilament yarn of 75 denier/72 filament with a circular cross-sectional shape of the single filament is used as the warp, and the warp density is 1.
The fabric was woven using a water jet loom with a weft density of 20 threads/inch, a weft density of 85 threads/inch, and a plain weave structure. 20 In the weaving process, almost no trouble occurred when unwinding the weft from the package. Soak this fabric in the following alkaline aqueous solution for 20 minutes,
At the same time as desizing and refining, splitting of splittable fibers and hot water shrinkage of thick fibers were performed. When the weft yarns were extracted from the fabric after this dividing treatment and observed under a microscope, it was found that the bonding agent (1a) had been completely removed. In addition, many ultrafine fibers (1b) with irregular cross sections were observed. When the fineness of 50 ultrafine fibers (1b) was measured, the average value was 0.14 denier. This fabric is then preset dyed using the same recipe as for general polyester multifilament fabrics.
Made the final touches. The obtained woven fabric had a downy texture and was a spun-like woven fabric with a rich sense of volume.

【Effect of the invention】

The composite yarn used in the present invention has not large loop fluff but small loop fluff formed on its surface. Therefore, even if a composite yarn is wound into a package, the small loop fluff will not have a negative effect on the unwinding performance of the composite yarn, thereby preventing various troubles that may occur during weaving due to a decrease in unwinding performance. It is possible to prevent the weaving efficiency from decreasing. Furthermore, since the crimped yarns are mixed and entangled in the composite yarn used in the present invention, the gaps between each filament are large, and the dividing process is less likely to be hindered when dividing the splittable fibers. Therefore, the production of ultrafine fibers in the splittable fibers is less likely to be inhibited. Furthermore, in the present invention, since the thick fibers constituting the core yarn of the composite yarn have a higher hot water shrinkage rate than the ultrafine fibers constituting the sheath yarn of the composite yarn, the fibers constituting the core yarn of the composite yarn have a higher hot water shrinkage rate. When the fabric is subjected to hot water shrinkage after treatment, the ultrafine fibers, which have a low hot water shrinkage rate, increase their lift. Therefore, the spun-like fabric according to the present invention has a soft texture due to the formation of ultrafine fibers and the condition on the surface of the ultrafine fibers. It has the effect of giving a downy hair-like texture, slimy feel, etc.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIGS. 1 and 2 show an example of a cross section of a splittable fiber used in the present invention. FIG. 3 is a schematic external view showing an example of a composite yarn used in the present invention. (lb)--ultrafine fiber, (la)-binder. (W), -m-loop fluff. (X) - Multifilament yarn (Y) - Crimped yarn

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] A step of preparing a crimped yarn by false twisting a multifilament yarn made of splittable fibers made by joining together ultrafine fibers with a fineness of 0.3 denier or less, and a step of preparing a crimped yarn; a step of preparing a multifilament yarn composed of thick fibers having a hot water shrinkage rate higher than that of the superfine fibers and a fineness larger than that of the ultrafine fibers;
a step of supplying the crimped yarn to a fluid agitation nozzle at a higher supply rate to form a loop fluff of the crimped yarn to obtain a composite yarn; /or weaving as a weft to obtain a fabric; splitting the splittable fibers in the fabric to generate the ultrafine fiber group; and applying hot water to the fabric to shrink the thick fibers. A method for producing a spun-like fabric, characterized by the following steps: