JP2543540B2 - Highly repulsive polyester fabric - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a highly repulsive polyester woven fabric obtained by weaving a polyester false twist textured yarn.

(Prior Art) Conventionally, a polyester woven fabric has been problematic because it lacks in resilience as compared with a wool woven fabric or the like. That is, in the case of a woolen fabric, since the wool fibers constituting the fabric can be crimped after being formed into a fabric, a fabric that is soft and rich in repulsion can be obtained. Various attempts have been made even for polyester fabrics in order to obtain the flexibility and resilience of wool fabrics.

One of them is a woven fabric made of false twisted yarn, but the false twisted yarn of polyester has a characteristic that it is homogeneous because it is an artificial fiber, and the woven fabric made of the false twisted yarn has sufficient resilience. Not only can it not be done, but it also has the drawback that the homogeneity suffers, resulting in an unfavorable texture called synthetic fiber. Therefore, to avoid its homogeneity as much as possible,
Attempts have been made to improve the feeling by using fluff and mixing two or more kinds having different denier. However, satisfactory results have not yet been obtained. Further, in order to increase the bulkiness and the repulsion property of the false twist textured woven fabric, an attempt has been made to use an extremely thick denier fiber. However, the one using thick denier fiber has a slightly improved resilience,
The texture is remarkably coarse and hard and is not completely satisfactory.

(Object of the Invention) An object of the present invention is to improve the drawbacks of the conventional false twist textured yarn woven fabric and propose a soft and highly repulsive polyester woven fabric.

(Structure of the Invention) The present invention relates to a highly oriented polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having a birefringence Δn satisfying Δn ≧ 0.08 and a medium orientation polyester multifilament not yet having a birefringence Δn in the range of 0.08> Δn ≧ 0.03. A woven fabric comprising a composite false-twist crimped yarn including a tightly entangled portion and an unentangled mixed fiber portion obtained by simultaneous drawing and false-twisting of a drawn yarn, and comprising the composite false-twist crimped yarn. Among the polyester multifilament yarns to be produced, the highly oriented polyester multifilament system has a single yarn denier D ₁ of 10.0 (de) ≧ D ₁ ≧ 5.0
(De) is satisfied, and by the medium orientation polyester multifilament system, D ₁ / D ₂ ≧ 3.5 between the single yarn denier D ₂ and
Using a thick denier fiber having a relationship satisfying
The different types of polyester filaments have different cross-sectional deformation degrees, and the average cross-sectional deformation degree a / b of the thick denier fibers is a / b ≦ 1.
5 and the non-entangled mixed fiber portion is 50% in the yarn length direction.
A highly repulsive polyester woven fabric comprising the above-existing yarns.

The composite false twist crimped yarn used in the present invention has a birefringence Δn.
However, a highly oriented polyester multifilament undrawn yarn satisfying Δn ≧ 0.08 and a birefringence Δn of 0.08> Δn ≧ 0.
It is obtained by simultaneously drawing and false-twisting a medium-oriented polyester multifilament undrawn yarn in the range of 03.
The highly oriented polyester multifilament undrawn yarn is
Single yarn denier D ₁ after drawing false twist is 10.0 (de) ≧
It is a thick denier fiber satisfying D ₁ ≧ 5.0 (de), while on the other hand, it is D between the single-strand denier of the intermediate-oriented polyester multifilament unstretched yarn D ₂ (single-strand denier after stretch false twisting). It is important that there is a denier difference that satisfies ₁ / D ₂ ≧ 3.5.

Highly oriented undrawn yarn with birefringence Δn of Δn ≧ 0.08 can be obtained by ultra high speed spinning with a take-up speed of 4,500 m / min or more, and birefringence Δn of 0.08> Δn ≧ 0.03 The drawn yarn can be obtained by high-speed spinning at a take-up speed of 2,500 m / min or more and less than 4.500 m / min.

The present invention is a composite false twist crimp obtained by using these polyester filament unstretched yarns, aligning them, supplying them to an interlace nozzle to impart entanglement, and then crimping them by a known simultaneous stretching false twisting method. The composite false-twisted processed yarn in which the processed yarn is used includes a densely entangled portion and a non-entangled mixed fiber portion in the yarn axis direction, and the densely entangled portion is 40 yarns in the woven fabric. / m or more, but the ratio in the length direction of the tightly entangled portion and the non-entangled mixed fiber portion along the yarn axis direction requires that the non-entangled mixed fiber portion be present at 50% or more. It is more preferable that the entangled mixed fiber portion is present at 60% or more.

FIG. 1 is a side view showing a morphological example of a composite false twist crimped yarn used in the present invention, wherein the composite false twist crimped yarn is composed of a tightly entangled portion 1 and a non-entangled mixed fiber portion 2. It has become.

FIG. 2 is a sectional view showing a cross-sectional view of the non-entangled mixed fiber portion. In the non-interlaced mixed fiber portion shown in FIG. 2, the thick denier fiber 3 and the fine denier fiber 4 are in a mixed fiber state, and the filaments are arranged without being intimately entangled with each other. Therefore, in the non-entangled mixed fiber portion 2, the composite false twist crimped yarn is extracted from the woven fabric, subjected to a repeated load and then made into a tension-free state, and then unraveled to separate each filament into a kind. It will be in the state of.

Further, the composite false twisted diameter processed yarn used in the present invention is the second
As shown in the figure. Although the cross-section is deformed by the drawn false twisting process, the cross-section deformation degree of the thick denier fiber is
It is important that they differ from the fine denier fibers. The cross-sectional deformation degree of the fine denier fiber is greater than the cross-sectional deformation degree of the thick denier fiber, and the shape of the deformation is also
It takes various forms.

On the other hand, the average cross-sectional deformation degree a / b of the thick denier fiber is a / b
It is necessary that ≦ 1.5, and more preferably,
The cross-sectional deformation degree a / b is a / b ≦ 1.3. The cross-section deformation degree referred to here is, as shown in FIG.
It is represented by the ratio of the length (major axis) a in the longest direction of the cross section and the length (minor axis) b in the direction orthogonal to the major axis. FIG. 3 is a sectional view for explaining the degree of sectional deformation. It is clear from the above description that the average cross-sectional deformation degree a / b of the fine denier fiber is a / b> 1.5.

Incidentally, these fine denier fibers, the use ratio of the thick denier fibers is determined in the range of 70:30 to 30:70, preferably,
Those in the range of 70:30 to 50:50 are used.

(Operation of the Invention) Since the woven fabric of the present invention has the above-mentioned constitution, it has a good texture, and in particular, can be obtained as a woven fabric having a repulsion property which has never been obtained. When the single yarn denier of the fibers constituting the woven fabric is 5 (de) or more, the woven fabric is usually coarse and hard. However, in the woven fabric of the present invention, a single yarn denier of 5 (de) or more is used as one kind of constituent fibers, but there is no such coarseness and hardness, and even though it is a false twisted woven fabric, it has a worsted span. You can get a feeling like.

In particular, the resilience of the woven fabric of the present invention cannot be obtained by the conventional false twist woven fabric. It is considered that this is because the composite false twist crimped yarn used in the present invention has a non-entangled mixed fiber portion having a unique structure. The non-entangled mixed fiber portion has a thick denier fiber having a single yarn denier D ₁ of 5.0 or more,
Single yarn denier D ₂ is mixed with 1 / 3.5 fine denier fiber, and there is no close entanglement between the fibers in this part, and the degree of freedom is large. Furthermore, with the thick denier fiber,
The fine denier fibers differ in the degree of cross-sectional deformation that occurs during draw false twisting, and the cross-sectional deformation of the fine denier fibers varies and is not a uniform shape.

Furthermore, the degree of cross-sectional deformation of thick denier fibers is small,
The advantage of thick denier that contributes to resilience can be used effectively.

With such a structure, it is presumed that in the non-entangled mixed fiber portion, the inter-fiber voids in the woven fabric become large, and the repulsion property of the fiber becomes extremely large.

Moreover, the inter-fiber void structure of these non-entangled mixed woven parts is spun to disappear in the woven fabric by arranging the tightly entangled parts between the non-entangled mixed fiber parts, and has good resilience. Is what gives rise to.

(Example) Polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having birefringence Δn of Δn = 0.085 [single yarn denier D ₁ after false twisting
= 5.1 (de), number of filaments = 12], and birefringence Δn
Is a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn with Δn = 0.035 [single yarn denier after false twisting D ₂ = 1.3 (d
e), the number of filaments = 72], and the filaments are aligned and fed to the entanglement treatment nozzle to be treated so that 60 entangles / m of entanglement are imparted after processing, and then the draw ratio = 1.30, false twist temperature. = 180
The composite false twist crimped yarn was obtained by performing draw false twisting under conditions of ℃ (total denier: 160 de). The obtained composite false twist crimped yarn had a densely entangled portion of 60 pieces / m and a non-entangled mixed fiber portion of 80%.

This composite false twist crimped yarn is subjected to 300 T / M additional twist,
2/2 due to the density of 96 warps / 3.8 cm, weft density 90 warps / 3.8 cm
It was woven into a twill structure and finished through normal dyeing and finishing processes.

Further, during the dyeing and finishing step, the same procedure as described above was carried out except that the alkali weight loss treatment with a weight loss rate of 5% was performed. The physical properties of the resulting woven fabric are shown in Table 1.

For comparison, a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having a birefringence Δn of Δn = 0.045 [single yarn denier D ₁ = 4.6 (de) after false twisting, number of filaments = 15]
And a polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having a birefringence Δn of Δn = 0.012 [single yarn denier after false twisting
D ₂ = 1.90 (de), number of filaments = 48]
It is aligned and supplied to the entanglement treatment nozzle, and after being processed so that 65 entangles / m are entangled, it is subjected to draw false twisting under the conditions of a draw ratio of 1.65 and a false twist temperature of 170 ° C to obtain a composite false twist. A crimped yarn was obtained. (Total denier: 173de) 300T / M additional twist was applied to the obtained composite false twist, and it was woven into a 2/2 twill with a density of 92 warps / 3.79 cm, weft density 87 warps / 3.79 cm. Dyeing and finishing processes were carried out in the same manner as in the example.

The obtained woven fabric was inferior in resilience and was not sufficiently satisfactory. The test results are also shown in Table 1.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a side view showing an example of the form of a composite false twist crimped yarn used in the present invention, and FIG. 2 is a cross section of a non-entangled mixed fiber portion of the composite false twist crimped yarn used in the present invention. And FIG. 3 are sectional views for explaining the degree of sectional deformation. 1 …… Closely entangled part 2 …… Mixed fiber non-entangled part

 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of front page (56) Reference JP-A-1-132845 (JP, A) JP-A-55-112325 (JP, A) JP-A-62-289635 (JP, A) JP-A-63- 126939 (JP, A)

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A highly oriented polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having a birefringence Δn satisfying Δn ≧ 0.08 and a medium orientation polyester multifilament undrawn yarn having a birefringence Δn in the range of 0.08> Δn ≧ 0.03. A woven fabric comprising a composite false-twist crimped yarn including a tightly entangled portion and a non-entangled mixed fiber portion obtained by simultaneous drawing false-twist processing, the polyester multi-filament constituting the composite false-twist crimped yarn. Among the yarns based on the highly oriented polyester multifilament system, the single yarn denier D ₁ is 10.0 (de) ≧ D ₁ ≧ 5.0
(De) is satisfied, and by the medium orientation polyester multifilament system, D ₁ / D ₂ ≧ 3.5 between the single yarn denier D ₂ and
Using a thick denier fiber having a relationship satisfying
The different types of polyester filaments have different cross-sectional deformation degrees, and the average cross-sectional deformation degree a / b of the thick denier fibers is a / b ≦ 1.
5 and the non-entangled mixed fiber portion is 50% in the yarn length direction.
A highly repulsive polyester woven fabric comprising the above-existing threads.