JPH07305265A - Production of acetate crepe fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a method for producing a acetate crepe fabric which has been difficult to obtain hitherto. CONSTITUTION:An acetate multifilament yarn (A) having <=1.5 de single yarn denier is blended and entangled with a polyester multifilament yarn (B) having <=3.0de single yarn denier and <=1.2% shrinkage factor in boil water so that conjugate weight ratio A:B of both yarns is in the range of 60:40 to 75:25 to apply high level twist to blended yarn, and then, twist of the blended yarn is stopped and the blended yarn and weft are woven and the resultant woven fabric is subjected to relax treatment (preferably temperature-raising relax treatment) to develop crepe.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing an acetate textured fabric, and more specifically, it uses a mixed strong twisted yarn composed of an acetate multifilament yarn and a polyester multifilament yarn, and has a soft texture and a drape. The present invention relates to a method for producing an acetate wrinkle woven fabric having a uniform, sharp and wrinkle texture.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Acetate fibers are excellent in softness, drapeability, hygroscopicity, luster, dyeability and the like, and are widely used mainly in the field of Japanese clothing.

However, acetate fibers have almost no untwisting power when they are made into strong-twisted yarns, and acetate crimped woven fabrics using the strongly-twisted yarns have not been produced so far.

On the other hand, acetate fibers are low in strength and easily wrinkle, and therefore, they are often used by mixing and compounding with other fibers such as polyester fibers.

For example, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. 62-299527 describes a composite mixed yarn of cellulosic fibers and polyester fibers spun at a spinning winding speed of 7,000 m / min or more. JP-A-4-136227 and JP-A-4-257334 describe a composite yarn in which an acetate fiber is arranged in the surface layer part and a polyester fiber is arranged in the center part.

However, even if a strong twist is applied to these composite yarns, the untwisting power is still weak and the texture is hard, and a satisfactory textured woven fabric cannot be obtained.

For example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-257334 discloses a state in which a polyester fiber is arranged in the center and a large number of loops are formed in the outer periphery in order to improve the depth of color when dyed black. It has been described that a woven fabric having a satin texture is woven, scoured and dyed using a composite strong twisted yarn in which an acetate fiber is arranged. Also becomes hard.

[0008]

Therefore, the present invention has a soft feeling and drape characteristic of acetate fiber,
Moreover, it is an object of the present invention to produce an acetate textured fabric having a uniform and sharp texture.

[0009]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of various studies to solve the above problems, the present inventor has found that an acetate multifilament yarn having a small single yarn denier and a polyester multifilament yarn having a low boiling water shrinkage ratio are mixed. In a twisted yarn formed by strong-twisting and heat-fixing a fine / entangled yarn, it has been found that the untwisting force of coexisting acetate multifilament yarns can be jointly untwisted by utilizing the untwisting force of polyester multifilament yarns. It came to completion.

That is, according to the present invention, acetate multifilament yarn (A) having a single yarn denier of 1.5 de or less and polyester multi having a single yarn denier of 3.0 de or less and a boiling water shrinkage of 1.2% or less. The filament yarn (B) is mixed and entangled within a composite weight ratio A: B of the acetate multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) within the range of 60:40 to 75:25, and then, After imparting a strong twist, twisting is stopped, weaving by weaving into the weft, relax treatment of the obtained woven fabric, to provide a method for producing an acetate wrinkled woven fabric characterized by expressing wrinkles, the twisting is It is desirable to perform the treatment at 70 ° C. or lower and to perform the relaxation treatment at the time of scouring and dyeing. Further, it is preferable to perform the relaxation treatment while raising the temperature, because uniform wrinkles are generated.

The acetate multifilament yarn (A) used in the present invention includes a multifilament yarn composed of diacetate or triacetate,
The single yarn denier needs to be 1.5 de or less, preferably 0.6 to 1.5 de, and more preferably 0.8 to 1.3 de. If the single yarn denier is too large, the feel becomes hard and the soft feel and drape characteristic of the acetate fiber cannot be obtained, and even if the polyester multifilament (B) is untwisted, the acetate multifilament yarn has It becomes difficult to untwist following and it is difficult to develop sharp and uniform wrinkles.

The total denier (yarn denier) of the acetate multifilament yarn (A) is preferably 50 to 100 de in order to obtain the soft texture and drape characteristic of the acetate fiber.

On the other hand, as the polyester multifilament yarn (B) used in the present invention, a polyester multifilament yarn whose main repeating unit is an ethylene terephthalate unit is preferably used, and a small amount other than the terephthalic acid component and / or the ethylene glycol component. The third component may be copolymerized. Further, it may be a mixture of a small amount of another type of polymer.

The polyester multifilament yarn (B) is required to have a single yarn denier of 3.0 de or less, preferably 2.5 de or less, and more preferably 0.8 to 1.3 de. If the single yarn denier is too large, not only will the texture become harder, but the integrity with the acetate multifilament yarn (A) will be lost, and the filament will be separated from the acetate multifilament yarn during untwisting, resulting in an overall mixed fiber composite yarn. Is not sufficiently untwisted, and uniform and sharp wrinkles do not appear.

The total denier (yarn denier) of the polyester multifilament yarn (B) is preferably 30 to 100 de in order to develop the soft texture and drape characteristic of acetate fibers.

Furthermore, what is particularly important in the present invention is that
The boiling water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament yarn (B) is set to 1.2% or less, preferably 1.0%.
Or less, more preferably 0.8% or less. When the boiling water shrinkage ratio exceeds 1.2%, the polyester multifilament yarn (B) exhibits shrinkage behavior and no wrinkles appear.

Polyester multifilament yarn (B)
In order to lower the boiling water shrinkage, the polyester multifilament yarn spun and stretched by a conventional method may be subjected to a relaxation heat treatment at a predetermined relaxation rate and temperature.

The composite weight ratio A: B of the acetate multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) is 60:40 to 75:25, preferably 6
It is 5:35 to 70:30. If the proportion of the acetate multifilament yarn (A) becomes too large, the untwisting power of the mixed fiber composite yarn will be insufficient, the expression of wrinkles will decrease, and uniform and sharp wrinkles cannot be obtained. If the proportion of B) is too large, the soft feel and drape characteristic of the acetate fiber cannot be obtained.

To mix and entangle the acetate multifilament yarn (A) with the polyester multifilament yarn (B) having a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 1.2% or less, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 36-12230 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-43787
The interlacing nozzle described in Japanese Patent Publication or the like may be used to mix and entangle the fibers.

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of a process for producing a mixed and entangled composite yarn of an acetate multifilament yarn (A) used in the present invention and a low boiling water shrinkage polyester multifilament yarn (B). And the polyester multifilament yarn B ′ is applied to the first roll 1 and the second roll 2
In between, the heater 3 performs relaxation heat treatment at a predetermined relaxation rate and temperature to reduce the boiling water shrinkage rate to 1.2% or less, and at the same time, to supply the acetate multifilament yarn A to the second roll 2. The polyester multifilament yarn B that has been subjected to the relaxation heat treatment is combined, and both are uniformly mixed and entangled by the interlacing nozzle 5 provided between the second roll 2 and the third roll 4, and the winder 6 To wind up.

According to this method, the relaxation heat treatment for reducing the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament yarn (B) and the acetate multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) are uniformly mixed. This is convenient because the process of entanglement can be performed in one step.

It should be noted here that the acetate multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) must be mixed and entangled with each other. For example, acetate multifilament yarn And a normal polyester multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 4 to 6% are mixed and entangled, and then relaxation heat treatment is performed to reduce the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester multifilament yarn. When the filament yarn is located and the acetate multifilament yarn is located on the outer periphery, it becomes a composite yarn, and even if strong twist is applied to this to untwist, the untwisting power of the polyester multifilament yarn acts on the acetate multifilament yarn on the outer periphery. No untwisting of the composite yarn as a whole, and even if wrinkles appear, it is extremely weak. , Feeling also becomes a hard thing.
In particular, it is preferable that the acetate multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) are uniformly mixed and entangled at the single yarn level.

The mixed filament of the acetate multifilament yarn (A) thus prepared and the low boiling water shrinkage polyester multifilament yarn (B) is provided with strong twist to the entangled composite yarn to stop the twisting.

The range of the twist number (T) is not particularly limited,
The range represented by the following formula is suitable, and the twisting temperature is preferably 70 ° C. or lower, which is lower than the usual twisting temperature, and particularly preferably 65 ° C. or lower for 35 to 45 minutes. .

[0025]

## EQU1 ## T (t / m) = α√de (α = 150 to 300) where de represents the denier of the composite yarn.

This strongly twisted yarn is used, for example, as a weft yarn of a woven fabric, or as a weft yarn and a warp yarn, one or two S,
Weaving is performed by alternately driving Z twists or by twisting in the same direction, and relaxing treatment is performed at a temperature higher than the twisting temperature to untwist and develop wrinkles.

The weft density of the woven fabric may be adjusted to a cover factor (CF) of 800 to 1200 in order to develop a sharp grain. The cover factor (CF) is calculated by the following formula.

[0028]

## EQU2 ## CF = N√de Here, de represents the denier of the weft, and N represents the weft density (pieces / inch).

The expression of grain is carried out by performing a relaxing treatment in a hot water having a temperature higher than the twisting temperature of the hard-twisted yarn using a washer or the like. It is preferable to express wrinkles at the time of dyeing because the treatment process can be shortened.

Further, it is preferable to carry out this relaxation treatment while raising the temperature, because more uniform and sharp wrinkles are generated. For example, a method of raising the temperature from about 40 ° C. to about 98 ° C. in 40 to 60 minutes is exemplified.

As the acetate grain textured fabric which can be produced by the method of the present invention, crepe crepe, crepe crepe, quail crepe, demon crepe crepe, feuille crepe crepe,
Examples include Chirimen Georgette, Yangyanagi Georgette, Yangyanagi Crepe, and Soccer GC.

[0032]

In the present invention, the acetate multifilament yarn (A) having a small single yarn denier and the boiling water shrinkage ratio are as low as the acetate multifilament yarn (A), and there is no difference in yarn length, and the single yarn denier is also acetate. Acetate multifilament yarn that does not generate untwisting torque itself even when strong twist is applied because the polyester multifilament yarn (B), which is not significantly different from that of the multifilament yarn (A), is mixed and entangled. (A) will be untwisted integrally with the untwisting force of the polyester multifilament yarn, which is peculiar to the acetate fiber,
A textured fabric with a soft texture and drape can be obtained.

In addition, in the relaxation treatment for expressing wrinkles, the reason why uniform and sharp wrinkles are expressed when the treatment is performed while raising the temperature is that acetate multifilament yarn (A) originally having no untwisting torque is used for polyester multifilament. Since the untwisting force of the yarn (B) is used to untwist the polyester multifilament yarn (B), the polyester multifilament yarn (B) will be untwisted first and the unwinding of the acetate multifilament yarn (A) will occur. Twist cannot follow it and uniform wrinkles are hard to appear, but if the relaxation treatment is performed while gradually raising the temperature, the untwist of the acetate multifilament yarn (A) is sufficient for untwisting of the polyester multifilament yarn (B). This is because the strongly twisted yarn can be uniformly untwisted as a whole.

[0034]

The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the following examples.

[Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2] Bright acetate multifilament yarn 55 de / 55f (single yarn denier 1.0 de) and semi-dal polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn 30 de / 12f (single yarn denier 2.5 de) ) And were uniformly mixed and entangled by the device shown in FIG. In this case, the relaxation rate between the first roller 1 and the second roller 2 and the temperature of the heater 3 are variously changed,
The boiling water shrinkage of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was changed as shown in Table 1.

2,600 tons of the obtained mixed fiber and entangled composite yarn
/ M of strong twist was applied, and the twist stop set was performed at 60 ° C for 40 minutes.

This strongly twisted yarn was prepared with a warp density of 84 yarns / inch,
A woven fabric was obtained by alternately driving S and Z twists in both warp and weft with a weft density of 73 threads / inch.

While shrinking and dyeing this woven fabric, while raising the temperature from 70 ° C. to 98 ° C., the shrinkage ratio in the warp direction is 20 to 2
5% and the shrinkage in the weft direction were treated to be 20 to 35% to develop wrinkles.

The results are shown in Table 1. When polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 1.2% or less was mixed and entangled (Examples 1 to 3).
Shows a uniform and sharp wrinkle, and a soft and drapable wrinkle fabric (Chiffon Georgette) peculiar to acetate fiber is obtained, but the boiling water shrinkage rate of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn exceeds 1.2%. In the case (Comparative Examples 1 and 2), a difference in yarn length was generated between the filament yarns, and the acetate multifilament yarn was formed in the outer layer portion.
The polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was separated at the center, and no sharp grain appeared and the texture was hard.

[0040]

[Table 1]

[Examples 4 to 11 and Comparative Examples 3 to 4] In Example 1, the single yarn denier of the acetate multifilament yarn and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was changed as shown in Table 2, and other conditions were carried out. A woven fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 and subjected to a relaxation treatment.

The results are as shown in Table 2, where the single yarn denier of the acetate multifilament yarn is 1.5 de or less and the single yarn denier of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn is 3.0 de or less (Examples 4 to 1).
In 1), a uniform and sharp texture was developed, and a soft textured drape characteristic of acetate fiber was obtained, but the single yarn denier of both multifilament yarns was too large (Comparative Examples 3 to 4). Had no sharp texture and had a hard texture.

[0043]

[Table 2]

[Examples 12 to 15 and Comparative Examples 5 to 6] In Example 1, the total denier of the acetate multifilament yarn and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was changed, and the composite weight ratio of both filament yarns is shown in Table 3. The fabric was made in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the above conditions were changed, and the relaxation treatment was performed.

The results are shown in Table 3, and the composite weight ratio of the acetate multifilament yarn and the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn was 60:40 to 75:
When it is within the range of 25 (Examples 12 to 15), the soft feel and drape characteristic peculiar to the acetate fiber are obtained,
Uniform and sharp wrinkles were developed, but when the proportion of the acetate multifilament yarn was too large (Comparative Example 5), uniform and sharp wrinkles were not obtained, and conversely when the proportion of polyethylene terephthalate filament yarn was too large. (Comparative Example 6), the soft texture and drapability peculiar to the acetate fiber were not obtained.

[0046]

[Table 3]

[0047]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, it is possible to produce an acetate textured fabric having a soft and drapeable texture and a uniform and sharp texture, which has not been obtained in the past, and it is possible to produce an outerwear for women. , And can be used for various clothing applications.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic view showing an example of an apparatus for producing mixed fiber and entangled composite yarn used in the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 1st roll 2 2nd roll 3 Heater 4 3rd roll 5 Interlace nozzle 6 Winder A Acetate multifilament thread B Polyester multifilament thread

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. An acetate multifilament yarn (A) having a single yarn denier of 1.5 de or less and a polyester multifilament yarn (B) having a single yarn denier of 3.0 de or less and a boiling water shrinkage of 1.2% or less. And the composite weight ratio A: B of the acetate multifilament yarn (A) and the polyester multifilament yarn (B) is 60:40 to 7.
Characterized by blending and entanglement within a range of 5:25, then applying strong twist, stopping twisting, weaving by weaving into weft, and relaxing treatment of the resulting woven fabric to develop grain. And a method for producing an acetate wrinkle fabric. 2. The method for producing an acetate grained woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the twisting after applying the strong twist is performed at 70 ° C. or lower. 3. The method for producing an acetate grained fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the relaxation treatment is carried out during scouring and dyeing. 4. The method for producing an acetate grained woven fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the relaxation treatment is performed while raising the temperature.