JP2003113550A - Polyester woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a polyester woven fabric obtained by using a false-twisted yarn of a polyester fiber, stably produced without causing fluff and yarn break, having good drape properties, excellent bulky feeling and excellent soft feeling as the fabric, and further having a new feeling different from a woven fabric obtained by using a conventional false-twisted yarn. SOLUTION: This polyester woven fabric is constituted of the false-twisted yarn of a polyester multifilament, having 8-80% shrinkage in boiling water. The false-twisted yarn is obtained by installing a twist-setting tool at the position different from the point from which the yarn parts from a heater, and positioned between the heater and a false-twisting tool, and continuously carrying out the draw-false-twist texturing by using the twist-setting tool as a starting point of the twist when an undrawn yarn of the polyester fiber is subjected to the false twisting before twisting by the false twisting tool after heating the yarn by a heater at 60-140 deg.C.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a polyester fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a polyester woven fabric which has a good drape property, is excellent in softness and swelling, and has a new sensation different from that of the conventional woven fabric using false twisted yarn.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, in the continuous false-twisting process or the simultaneous false-twisting process of synthetic fiber yarn, the twisted yarn is heated, stretched and twist-heat-fixed, and then untwisted. The method is mainly adopted. Moreover, in the conventional false twisting process, when the processing speed is increased, by increasing the processing tension for stable processing and twisting on the heater plate, fluff due to stretch cutting of the single fiber or thermal deterioration of the yarn is generated. Thread breakage easily occurs. Further, since the reduction of the heat setting time is compensated, the heating heater length becomes long.

Further, the false-twisted yarn obtained by the conventional false-twisting method has a high crimping property, and when it is made into a fabric, if crimping occurs during the steps of relaxing, presetting, weight reduction and dyeing. At the same time, shrinkage occurs, and there is a problem that the drape property deteriorates due to the rough texture of the fabric. On the other hand, the conventional drawn yarn does not have a fluff, but does not have a bulge and has problems such as a flat texture.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION Therefore, an object of the present invention is to make it possible to stably produce false-twisted synthetic fiber yarns without generating fluffs or broken yarns, and to obtain good drapeability when used as a fabric. It is an object of the present invention to provide a polyester woven fabric which is excellent in swelling and softness and has a new feel that is different from the conventional woven fabric using false twisted yarn.

[0005]

Means for Solving the Problems When an undrawn yarn of polyester fiber is heated by a heating body at 60 ° C. to 140 ° C. before twisting and then false twisted by a false twisting tool, the yarn is separated from the heating body. Different from the above point, a twisting prevention device is provided at a position between the heating body and the false twisting tool, and the twisting twisting device is used as a twisting start point to continuously perform the drawing false twisting process. Is a polyester woven fabric characterized in that the shrinkage rate of boiling water of the false twisted yarn is 8% to 80%.

[0006]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION The present invention will be described in more detail below.

In order to achieve the above object, the method for producing the false twisted yarn used in the present invention is as follows. In the continuous drawing false twisting process of the undrawn yarn of the polyester fiber, after heating the undrawn yarn before twisting. The twisting device is provided at a position different from the point where the heating body and the yarn separate from each other between the heating body and the false twisting tool, and the false twisting process is continuously performed with the twisting stop device as a twisting start point. It is something to do.

The apparatus for producing false twisted yarn used in the present invention is a false twisting device for drawing and false twisting an undrawn yarn of polyester fiber, wherein a heating body for heating the undrawn yarn before twisting is temporarily used. A twist stopper is provided at a position between the heating element and the false twist tool, which is different from the point where the yarn separates from the heating element, while being provided on the upstream side of the twist tool, and the twist stopping apparatus is used as a twisting start point. The drawing false twist is performed.

As the polyester fiber, polyethylene terephthalate single yarn such as polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing isophthalic acid or polyethylene glycol can be applied. Further, as the undrawn yarn, an undrawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of 800 to 2000 m / min, a semi-drawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of 2000 to 4000 m / min, or the like can be applied. In the processing, it is preferable to use a semi-drawn yarn because the characteristics of the present invention can be exhibited.

In the false twisting process of the present invention, the heating temperature is 60.
C. to 140.degree. C. If the heating temperature is lower than 60 ° C., the shrinkage rate of boiling water becomes too high and the woven fabric becomes hard, which is not preferable. On the other hand, when the temperature exceeds 140 ° C, the shrinkage rate of boiling water becomes too low and the texture does not bulge like the conventional drawn yarn, which is not preferable. Preferably from 60 ° C
It is 140 degreeC, More preferably, it is 80 degreeC-110 degreeC.

Further, the shrinkage rate of boiling water of the false twist textured yarn applied to the present invention is in the range of 8% to 80%. A boiling water shrinkage of less than 8% is not preferable because the texture does not swell. Further, if it exceeds 80%, the woven fabric becomes hard, which is not preferable. More preferably 20% to 60%
Are preferable because the features of the present invention can be exhibited.

Further, since the polyester fiber yarn is heated in a non-twisted state, a uniform and sufficient amount of heat can be applied to all single yarns in the yarn. In addition, since the twisting start point is the point at which the yarn of the anti-twist device provided at a position different from the point where the yarn on the heating element separates, the retrogression of twisting to the heating element can be prevented, and fluff and broken yarn can be prevented. Does not occur. Further, since the twist fixing is performed by the heat received from the yarn heating element, the twist fixing force is small. Therefore, the fabric obtained by the present invention does not have the drapability and swelling feeling as in the case of using the conventional false twisted yarn, does not have a high crimping property due to the deterioration of the soft feeling, has a good drapeability, and has a swelling feeling. It is excellent in softness and can exhibit a new feeling different from that of the conventional cloth using false twisted yarn.

The fabric using the false twist textured yarn has a better drape, a swelling feeling and a softer feeling than the conventional real fiber yarn (raw yarn) or the conventional false twist textured yarn. The texture of the woven fabric is not limited to plain weave, twill, and satin design, and other various modified designs can be adopted from a wide range. Of these, a satin structure and a winged structure are particularly preferable from the viewpoint of texture. As the satin structure, 5 sheet satin, 8 sheet satin or the like can be used.

As the weaving method, any conventionally known method can be used. As the loom, any of a fly shuttle type, an air jet type, a water jet type, a rapier type, and a sulzer type loom may be used.

The obtained raw fabric can be finished by a usual dyeing process. Further, since the greige machine uses continuous drawn false twisted yarn, the process shrinkage rate in the dyeing process is 10% to 40%. A work shrinkage of less than 10% is not preferable because the texture does not bulge. Further, if it exceeds 40%, the woven fabric becomes hard, which is not preferable. A processing shrinkage of 15% to 25% is more preferable from the intended use. In addition,
The processing shrinkage is the processing shrinkage from the raw fabric of the dyeing processing steps from scouring to dyeing to finishing in dyeing and finishing, and is the width shrinkage and / or the length shrinkage of the woven fabric.

The use of such a woven fabric is preferable when it is used for outer garments, overall inner garments, curtains and the like, because the effects of the present invention can be satisfactorily exhibited.

A processing shrinkage of 20% to 25% for curtains and cloths is preferable because the effects of drape, swelling and softness can be exhibited well.

[0018]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. The evaluations shown in the following examples and comparative examples were carried out by the following methods. (1) False Twistability The ratio of false twisted yarns in which yarn breakage or fluff did not occur when obtaining a false twisted yarn of 3.0 kg winding using undrawn yarn was determined by false twistability (%). And 99.5% or more was passed. (2) Expansion / contraction recovery rate (referred to as CR (%)) Initial tension using a measuring machine: (0.088 × fineness dtex)
With cN, make a case with a length of 50 cm and a winding number of 10 times,
This is immersed in hot water of 90 ° C. for 20 minutes, drained with a blotter paper or cloth, and naturally dried in a horizontal state. This mast roll is put in water at room temperature, and a sample length: a is measured with a specified initial load and a constant load applied. Next, the constant load is removed, and the sample is left in water with only the initial load applied for 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, the material length: b is measured, and the expansion / contraction recovery rate CR (%) is calculated by the following formula. . For the initial load and constant load, use those obtained by the following formula.

CR (%) = ((ab) / a) × 100 Initial load (cN) = (Fineness dtex / 1.111) × 0.
002 × 0.9807 × number of windings × 2 constant load (cN) = (fineness dtex / 1.111) × 0.
1 × 0.9807 × number of windings × 2 (3) crimp extension rate (referred to as TR (%)) Initial tension using a measuring machine: (0.088 × x fineness dte
x) With cN, a cassette with a cassette length of 50 cm and a winding number of 20 is prepared, an initial load is applied, and a dry heat treatment is performed at 150 ± 2 ° C. for 5 minutes. After the dry heat treatment, the sample length: a in the state where the initial load is applied is measured. Next, the initial load is removed and the sample length: b is measured with a constant load applied.
Calculate (%). For the initial load, use the one obtained by the following formula.

TR (%) = ((b−a) / b) × 100 Initial load (cN) = (fineness dtex / 1.111) × 0.
00166 × 0.9807 × number of windings × 2 constant load (cN) = (fineness dtex / 1.111) × 0.
1 x 0.9807 x number of windings x 2 (4) Soft feeling and swelling feeling was sensory judged by 10 texture judges, ◎: extremely good ○: good △: somewhat good ×: poor (5) drool -Pease properties were sensory-evaluated in 1 to 5 grades.

Grade 5: No dullness, great drapeability and extremely good Grade 4: No dullness, great and drapeable Grade 3: Cryptia, drapability ordinary Grade 2: Poor dullness and poor drapeability 1st grade: Large lumpiness and very poor drapeability [Example 1] <Yarn making and false twisting> A polymer of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 added with 0.4 wt% of titanium oxide at a spinning speed of 3000 m / min. 150 obtained by melt spinning
Dtex, 36-filament unstretched yarn is stretched using a false twisting continuous processing device, the temperature of the heating roll is 110 ° C., the temperature of the take-up roll is room temperature, the stretching ratio is 1.69 times, and the stretching speed is 820 m / min. Using a rotating roller guide for the device, a triaxial friction type disk type false twisting device for the false twisting tool,
With a disk rotation speed of 7,000 rpm, a spindle type winding device was used to wind up a 3.0 kg roll.
A false twist textured yarn of 93.5 dtex and 36 filaments was obtained. The false twistability was also very good at 99.8%, and no fluff was observed in the obtained bun. The obtained false twisted yarn had a CR of 33% and a TR of 2.8%. <Woven / Dyed> The obtained false twist textured yarn was used as a warp yarn and a weft yarn, and was woven with a water jet loom. At this time, the fabric structure is satin fabric, and the fabric density is 224 warps /
The setting was 2.54 cm and the weft density was 90 / 2.54 cm. The resulting greige is scoured / jet dyed by a conventional method with a disperse dye to give a finishing density of 243 pieces / 2.54 cm and a weft density of 10.
Finished by dyeing and processing into 0 / 2.54 cm blue-color.
The processing shrinkage ratio in dyeing is 8.5 in the longitudinal direction.
% And 11.1% in the weft direction.

Comparative Example 1 <Yarn Making / False Twist> The same unstretched polyethylene terephthalate yarn as in Example 1 was used with a conventional false twisting device, the false twist heater temperature was 210 ° C., the draw ratio was 1.80 times, and the processing speed was 600 m
/ Min, a false twisting process was carried out at a disk rotation speed of the false twisting tool of 7,000 rpm to obtain a false twisting yarn of 85 dtex 36 filaments. The obtained false twisted yarn CR
Was 33% and TR was 34%. <Weaving and dyeing> Conventional false twisted yarn (84dtex-36
Weaving was performed in the same manner as in Example 1 using f). The fabric structure and fabric density at this time were set in the same manner as in the example. The obtained greige was dyed and finished by the same treatment and method as in Example 1. The processing shrinkage in dyeing was 5.0% in the warp direction and 7.0% in the weft direction.

[Comparative Example 2] Conventional real fiber yarn (raw yarn 84dt)
Ex-36f) was used and woven in the same manner as in Example 1. The fabric structure and fabric density at this time were set in the same manner as in the example. Further, the obtained raw machine was treated in the same manner as in Example 1,
It was dyed and finished by the method. The above results are summarized in Table 1. The processing shrinkage in dyeing was 3.0% in the warp direction and 4.0% in the weft direction.

[0024]

[Table 1]

[Evaluation Results] As described above, the polyester false twisted yarn woven fabric obtained from the continuous drawing false twisting process of the present invention has good drapeability, is excellent in swelling feeling and softness, and is conventionally drawn or false twisted. An excellent blu-coloured fabric was obtained with a new feel different from that of the yarn. Moreover, the dyeability was also excellent. In addition, weaving and dyeing workability could be processed smoothly without any problems. In Comparative Example 1, the conventional woven fabric using false-twisted yarn has a high degree of crimpability, and therefore, in the fabric evaluation, fluffiness is large, and in Comparative Example 2, the feeling of swelling and softness are poor, and the drapeability is also poor. It was a woven fabric.

[0026]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, a woven fabric using polyester false twisted yarn obtained from a continuous drawing false twisting process has good drapeability, is excellent in swelling feeling and softness. Provides an excellent polyester woven fabric having a different new sensation and can be widely used in clothing and curtain applications.

   ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continued front page    F-term (reference) 4L036 AA01 MA05 MA25 MA33 PA07                       PA14 PA18 RA04 UA01 UA06                 4L048 AA21 AA46 AA47 AA50 AA55                       AB07 AB21 BA01 BA02 CA00                       DA01 DA19 EA01

Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. An undrawn yarn of polyester fiber is twisted before twisting.
When the false twist is applied by the false twisting tool after being heated by the heating element at 0 ° C. to 140 ° C., the twisting device is provided at a position between the heating element and the false twisting tool, which is different from the point that the yarn is separated from the heating element. And using a polyester multi-filament false twisted yarn that continuously performs stretch false twisting using the twisting prevention device as a twisting start point, and the boiling water shrinkage rate of the false twisted yarn is 8% to 80%.
A polyester woven fabric, which is a woven fabric composed of 10% by weight. 2. The polyester woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein a processing shrinkage ratio in dyeing processing of a raw machine using the false twist textured yarn is 10% to 40%. 3. The polyester woven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the woven design is satin or winged design.