JPH03294544A - Production of high-density fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject fabric excellent in softness, tenseness, stiffness, etc., by interlacing plural filament yarns having respective specific differences between shrinkage factor in boiling water and the maximum thermal stress value, knitting or weaving the resultant interlaced yarn and then heat-treating the prepared fabric. CONSTITUTION:The objective fabric is obtained by interlacing (A) high-shrinkage factor filament yarn having >=20% shrinkage factor in boiling water and >=0.4g/den maximum thermal stress and (B) low-shrinkage factor filament yarn having >=10% difference in shrinkage factor in boiling water from the value of the component (A) and >0.1g/den difference in the maximum thermal stress value similarly from the value of the component (A) so as to provide >=50 number of interlacements/m, affording yarn, knitting or weaving the resultant yarn and subjecting the prepared fabric to, e.g. relax dyeing finish treatment.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a high-density fabric made of synthetic multifilament fibers. More specifically, it relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric that has a peach-skin feel to the touch, moderate tension, resilience, and fullness, and is suitable for general clothing applications, mainly women's clothing, as well as high-end clothing applications such as sports clothing. It can be used for a range of purposes.

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, as a general fabric manufacturing method to obtain the above-mentioned texture and feel, there has been an attempt to obtain a fabric using a filament yarn that is shrinkable and has a single denier. Are known. For example, as seen in Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-13009 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-40778,
All of these are based on mixed fiber yarns of different fineness that have a specific boiling water shrinkage rate difference, and although they can give the fabric a moderate fluffy and soft feel, they are not suitable for high-density fabrics. It is insufficient in terms of obtaining a woven or knitted fabric with high density.

This is because, for example, the purpose of the inventions described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-13009 and Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-40778 is different from the present invention, and the former aims to improve bulky texture and quality. The latter was mainly aimed at improving napping properties, and both were proposed with a focus on boiling water shrinkage.

Problems to be Solved by the Invention The present inventors have made efforts to improve the shortcomings of the prior art described above, and to develop a method for manufacturing a fabric that is high-density and has an appropriate soft feel, firmness, and peach skin-like touch. As a result of our studies, we have arrived at the present invention, which aims to provide a fabric manufacturing method that is inexpensive, has excellent process passability, and can be applied to either woven or knitted fabrics.

Means for Solving the Problem In order to solve this problem, the present invention has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 2.
The difference in boiling water shrinkage rate between the high shrinkage filament yarn (A) having the characteristics of 0% or more and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.4 g/den or more and this high shrinkage filament yarn (^) is 10% or more. , and a low shrinkage filament yarn [8] with a difference in maximum thermal stress value of 0.1 g/den or more, the number of entanglements is 50/M
This method is characterized in that it is manufactured using yarns intertwined as described above, and then subjected to heat treatment.

As a result of intensive research for the purpose of the present invention, the present inventors found that in the commonly used method using a mixed fiber yarn with different shrinkage, the absolute value of the boiling water shrinkage rate was greater than the boiling water shrinkage rate difference. , and the absolute value of the thermal stress value representing another shrinkage behavior in addition to the difference in shrinkage rate and the difference thereof have been found to be the most important factors, leading to the present invention.

That is, the fundamentals for obtaining the high-density fabric that is the object of the present invention are the boiling water shrinkage value,
The thermal stress characteristic value is the most important factor, and the present invention can only be achieved by setting this value under specific conditions.

Therefore, in order to achieve the purpose of the present invention,
First, it is necessary that the boiling water shrinkage rate of the high shrinkage filament yarn constituting the differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarn is 20% or more, preferably 22 to 35%, and at the same time, the maximum value of thermal stress is at least The peak temperature is 100°C or higher and the maximum stress value is 0.4. /den is required,
Preferably it is 0.45-0.65 g/den. The present invention cannot be achieved unless all of these numerical values are satisfied at the same time. For example, even if the shrinkage rate of boiling water is 35%, if the maximum value of thermal stress is 0.4 g/den,
If sufficient shrinkage behavior is not obtained by heat treatment of the post-processed culm on the fabric, and even if the maximum thermal stress value is 0.4 g/den or more, the boiling water shrinkage rate is less than 20%, the former case is considered. Similarly, it was discovered that sufficient shrinkage behavior could not be obtained; in other words, the conventional technology that uses the boiling water shrinkage rate as a guideline is insufficient to shrink the assembled fabric; It has been found that the balance between shrinkage rate and thermal stress value within a specific range is most important.

Therefore, as mentioned above, if both the boiling water shrinkage rate and the thermal stress are lower than the values of the present invention, sufficient shrinkage force cannot be obtained. In order to obtain a fabric with a peach skin-like feel and high density, which is the objective of the present invention, the difference in boiling water shrinkage rate of high shrinkage filament yarn should be 10% or more and the thermal stress value should be 0.1t/den or more. It is necessary to have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 15% or more and a thermal stress value of 0.15t/den or more. When mixed with low shrinkage filament yarns that do not have such a numerical difference,
Although a high-density fabric can be obtained, the texture becomes a little rough and hard, and it becomes difficult to obtain the peach-skin feel that is the object of the present invention. This is an approximation of shrinkage characteristics, so
The so-called double-layer elliptical shape, in which the low-shrinkage filament yarn is located outside the high-shrinkage filament yarn, is also difficult to produce, and the above-mentioned difference in value is required at the minimum6.
Furthermore, the low-shrinkage filament yarn of the present invention is, as a matter of course, finer than the high-shrinkage filament yarn, and has a larger number of filaments.
It is necessary that the single yarn fineness of the high shrinkage filament yarn is 172 or less and the number of single yarns is 3 times or more, but as a feeding condition, the single yarn fineness is preferably 1.5 denier or less. Also,
In the present invention, it is also important to intertwine such high shrinkage filament yarns and low shrinkage filament yarns with a predetermined degree of entanglement. The fibrillated strands have the boiling water shrinkage rate and thermal stress value described above,
Because its shrinkage properties are excellent under any conditions, the entanglement is easily unraveled by heat treatment in the post-process.Therefore, the degree of entanglement is set higher than usual to improve weavability, knitting properties, etc. It is possible to improve process passability. In the present invention, the degree of entanglement is required to be 50 strands/M or more, which not only provides a sufficient fiber-mixing effect but also greatly improves process passability. Preferably 60
The range is good, from 100 to 100 pieces/M, and the degree of entanglement is 50 pieces/M.
If the fibers are less than M, the sufficient mixing effect required by the present invention cannot be obtained, and if the fibers are more than 100 fibers/M, residual entanglement will be noticeable in the final product, which may adversely affect the quality.

Effect With this configuration, the present invention is capable of shrinking as a fabric for the first time due to the synergistic effect of boiling water shrinkage, which shows the shrinkage characteristics of yarn in a state close to pi # stress, and stress against heat in a restrained state. Due to the characteristics of the high shrinkage filament yarn in the present invention, it controls the absolute value of the shrinkage of the fabric, and the difference in shrinkage rate in boiling water and thermal stress between the filament yarn and the low shrinkage filament yarn causes the shrinkage of the fabric to increase. After shrinkage, the low-shrinkage filament yarn produces minute loops, and the high-shrinkage filament yarn provides an appropriate sense of tension. In addition, by adding more than 50 entanglements/M,
The high-shrinkage filament yarns and the low-shrinkage filament yarns are not unevenly distributed, and the low-shrinkage filament yarns are easily located on the surface and the high-shrinkage filament yarns are located in the center on the fabric after heat treatment.

Example An embodiment of the present invention will be described below.

(A) As a high shrinkage filament yarn, a copolymer consisting of polyethylene terephthalate and isophthalic acid was spun, and then subjected to a drawing process to obtain a yarn consisting of 30 denier/12 filaments having the shrinkage characteristics shown in Table 1. The shrinkage characteristics were obtained by varying the stretching temperature, stretching ratio, etc. in a conventional manner when stretching the above-mentioned copolymer undrawn yarn. In addition, as a comparative example, a highly oriented undrawn yarn of the same brand and conventionally used polyethylene terephthalate was drawn by changing the drawing conditions using a conventional method. Yarns having the brands and shrinkage characteristics shown in Table 2 were obtained by ordinary spinning and drawing processes. In addition,
The boiling water shrinkage rate and the maximum thermal stress value were obtained by changing the stretching conditions, stretching ratio, and heat treatment temperature.

Incidentally, the boiling water shrinkage rate and maximum thermal stress value in Tables 1 and 2 were measured by the following method.

Boiling water shrinkage rate: According to the method described in JIS-11013.
It was measured.

Maximum thermal stress value: Using a thermal stress measuring instrument E-1 manufactured by Kanebo Engineering Co., Ltd., the maximum stress value was converted into stress per denier.

The high-shrinkage filament yarns and low-shrinkage filament yarns shown in Tables 1 and 2 were combined, and mixed fiber entangled yarns shown in Table 3 were produced as warp yarns for textiles.

Using warps A to J according to the combinations shown in Table 3 and Table 4, regular polyester yarn 100 d/w was used as the weft.
96f with strong twist S, 2.20007/N yarn, greige warp density 140 threads/inch, weft density 70 threads/inch
Weaving is carried out as usual, and
Table 4 shows the results of a dyeing process and an investigation of warp shrinkage, texture, appearance, etc. for the gray fabric.

Note-1 = Warp shrinkage rate was calculated as follows.

Note-2: The texture is determined by a sensitivity test. If the texture is satisfactory, mark it as ○, if it is slightly unsatisfactory, mark it as △, and if it is unsatisfactory, mark it as X.

Note-3: The appearance was examined in particular for irritation-like defects caused by differences in dyeing between high-shrinkage filament yarns and low-shrinkage filament yarns, and those with no noticeable irritation were marked as ○, those with slight irritation were marked as △, and those with strong irritation were evaluated. Items were evaluated as ×.

As is clear from the results shown in Table 4, both warp types A and B are unsuitable. That is, warp A has a boiling water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or less and a thermal stress difference of 0.12/den.
The boiling water shrinkage rate difference for warp type B is as follows.
However, since the thermal stress difference is less than 0.1 g/den, sufficient shrinkage cannot be obtained in either case, and as a result, the object of the present invention is not satisfied.

Next, warp types C, D, E, F, and I satisfy the purpose of the present invention, and all have a boiling water shrinkage rate difference of 10% or more and a thermal stress difference of 0.1 g. /den or more, a shrinkage rate of at least 30% or more is obtained on the fabric, and the firmness and peach skin feel are both satisfactory.Especially, warp types F and I have a boiling point. Good results were obtained with large differences in water shrinkage rate and thermal stress.

Next, warp type J focuses only on the boiling water number m rate difference, which has been done conventionally, and it is true that the boiling water shrinkage rate difference is more than 30%, but this is an important point of the present invention. Point of note 1
On the contrary, the thermal stress difference was larger on the low shrinkage filament side, and as a result, the shrinkage of the fabric in the warp direction was small, and the object of the present invention could not be obtained.

In addition, the influence of the degree of entanglement in the blending of high-shrinkage filament yarn and low-shrinkage filament yarn is as seen in the warp type GH, when the number of entanglements is less than 50 p/m, the fibers are mixed insufficiently. The irritation-like defects mentioned above become more noticeable,
At least 50 strands/M or more of entanglement is required, preferably 60 strands/M or more. The number of entanglements in the present invention is higher than that of ordinary differentially shrinkable mixed fiber yarns, but the reason for this is that the thermal stress difference, which is one of the features of the present invention, is taken into consideration. This is because the solution is easy and it is necessary to add interlace to the pre-crimped lines. In addition, the degree of entanglement in the present invention is defined as the degree of entanglement when a 1 m sample is taken,
A load of 0.2 f/den was applied and the yarn was hung vertically, and a hook having a load of the same number of grams as the single yarn denier was hung with the yarn roughly divided into two, and the number of times the hook was supported by entanglement was measured. Convert per m.

Effects of the Invention As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to achieve this only by limiting the balance between the boiling water number 1III rate difference and the thermal stress difference to specific values. Therefore, within this basic range, polyester filament The yarn or copolymerized polyester filament yarn, cross-sectional shape, raster, etc. are not limited in any way and can be freely combined, and of course, combination with polyamide filament yarn is also possible. In addition, in the above-mentioned example, a tri-coat knitted fabric with a gauge number was prototyped using warp type F, and as a result of relaxing dyeing finishing, it was found that, like the woven fabric, it had an unprecedented high density and peach color. We were able to obtain a tricoat knitted fabric with a rich skin feel.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Boiling water shrinkage rate is 20% or more, maximum thermal stress value is 0.4
The difference in boiling water shrinkage rate between a high shrinkage filament yarn having characteristics of g/den or higher and this high shrinkage filament yarn is 1
0% or more, and the difference in maximum thermal stress value is 0.1 g/den or more, and the number of entanglements is 50/M.
A method for producing a high-density fabric, which comprises knitting, weaving, and then heat-treating the intertwined yarns as described above.