JP2897841B2 - Method for producing high density fabric - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial applications]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a method for producing a high-density fabric having excellent firmness and waist, and mainly having nylon 6 filament yarns on the surface, and having good feeling and appearance.

[Prior art]

Conventionally, a take-up speed during spinning of 3500 m / min or more, using a multi-filament yarn composed of nylon 6 filament yarn obtained by a so-called one-step high-speed spinning method,
A knitted fabric is knitted. However, since nylon 6 filament yarn has a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.1 g / d or less, the amount of shrinkage during heat treatment of a knitted fabric is small, and tension and waist are reduced. It has been difficult to produce certain high density fabrics. For this reason, a knitted fabric is knitted and woven using a mixed yarn in which a nylon 6 filament yarn and a high shrinkage yarn are air-entangled,
A method has been proposed in which the knitted fabric is subjected to a hot water treatment to shrink the fabric (Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-40778). If this method is adopted, it is theoretically considered that the highly shrinkable yarn shrinks greatly to give the fabric firmness and stiffness, while a nylon 6 filament yarn having a small shrinkage amount appears on the surface of the fabric. However, in practice, when a polyester filament yarn which is generally commercially available as a high shrinkage yarn is used, there is a tendency that nylon 6 filament yarn and polyester filament yarn are mixedly present on the surface of the obtained knitted fabric. there were. Therefore, when this knitted fabric is dyed,
There is a drawback that irritation and the like occur due to a difference in dyeability between the nylon 6 filament yarn and the polyester filament yarn. There is also a disadvantage that the obtained fabric does not always have a high density.

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

As a result of studying the reason why nylon 6 filament yarn and polyester filament yarn are mixed and manifested on the surface of the knitted fabric and the reason why the obtained fabric does not necessarily have a high density, the present inventors have found that generally commercially available polyester filaments It was found that the maximum thermal stress value of the filament yarn was low. Based on this finding, a polyester filament yarn having a high maximum thermal stress value is mixed with a nylon 6 filament yarn to knit and knit a knitted fabric. Tried to manufacture. However, it has not been possible to produce a high-density fabric having the desired elasticity and waist as well as good feeling and appearance. That is, a desired high-density fabric could not be obtained by a general hot water treatment, that is, a normal pressure treatment at 100 ° C. or less or a pressure treatment at 100 ° C. or more. Specifically, when hot water treatment is performed at normal pressure at 100 ° C. or less, the knitted fabric does not shrink sufficiently and does not have a high density, and mainly nylon 6 filament yarn can be exposed on the surface. Did not. Also, 100 ℃
When the hot water treatment is performed by the above-described pressure treatment, the nylon 6 filament yarn is embrittled and the feeling becomes hard, and the unevenness due to the sudden shrinkage is generated on the cloth surface. there were. Therefore, the present invention uses a mixed yarn of a polyester filament yarn and a nylon 6 filament yarn which satisfies certain conditions, such as a maximum thermal stress, and shrinks it under a specific condition to have firmness and stiffness. In addition, they succeeded in obtaining a high-density fabric having good feeling and appearance.

[Means for Solving the Problems]

That is, the present invention has a birefringence of 0.035 to 0.045, a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less, and a maximum thermal stress value of
A low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn satisfying the three conditions of 0.1 g / d or less, a boiling water shrinkage ratio of 20% or more, a peak temperature of 100 ° C or more, and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.4 A knitted woven fabric containing at least 35% by weight or more of a mixed yarn obtained by mixing a high shrinkage polyester filament yarn satisfying the three conditions of being at least g / d,
The present invention relates to a method for producing a high-density fabric, which comprises performing shrinkage treatment with superheated steam at 130 to 220 ° C. and then performing dyeing. The low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn used in the present invention satisfies the following three conditions. That is, the birefringence is 0.035 to 0.045, the boiling water shrinkage is 10% or less, and the maximum thermal stress value is 0.1 g / d or less. Birefringence of low shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn is 0.03
If it is less than 5, the yarn quality is liable to change with time, and a fabric having an excellent hand cannot be obtained, which is not preferable. Further, those having a birefringence exceeding 0.045 are difficult to produce by a one-step high-speed spinning method and are not rational. Boiling water shrinkage of low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn is 10
%, The difference in shrinkage from the highly shrinkable polyester filament yarn used in the present invention is reduced, and it is difficult to make the nylon 6 filament yarn mainly manifest on the surface of the fabric. Here, the boiling water shrinkage is measured by the following method. That is, increased wound by a predetermined length the yarn in skein above machine, its length under an initial load 1 g / d is l _0, then treated for 15 minutes in hot water boiling in the unrestrained state, After that, air dry and the length under the initial load of 1 g / d is l ₁
Is a value calculated by the following equation. Boiling water shrinkage (%) = [(l ₀ −l ₁ ) / l ₀ ] × 100. Maximum thermal stress value of low shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn
If it exceeds 0.1 g / d, the shrinkage behavior of the highly shrinkable polyester filament yarn used in the present invention may be adversely affected. Here, the maximum thermal stress value is measured by the following method. That is, using a commercially available dry heat shrinkage stress meter, the sample was set to a 15 cm diameter ring, the initial tension was set to 60 mg / d, and the temperature was raised at a rate of 300 ° C./60 sec.
The measurement is performed under the conditions described above, and the maximum stress value generated is measured. The nylon 6 filament yarn as described above can be easily produced by a so-called one-step high-speed spinning method in which the take-up speed during melt spinning is 3500 m / min or more. The cutting elongation of such a nylon 6 filament yarn is 40 to 70%.
It is about. The highly shrinkable polyester filament yarn used in the present invention satisfies the following three conditions. That is, the boiling water shrinkage is 20% or more, and the peak temperature is 10%.
0 ° C. or more, and the maximum thermal stress value is 0.4 g / d or more. The boiling water shrinkage of the highly shrinkable polyester-based filament needs to be 20% or more, and particularly preferably 22 to 60%. When the boiling water shrinkage ratio is less than 20%, the difference in shrinkage from the low shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn used in the present invention decreases, and it becomes difficult to make the nylon 6 filament yarn mainly manifest on the surface of the fabric. The measuring method of the boiling water shrinkage rate is as described above. The peak temperature of the high-shrinkable polyester filament yarn needs to be 100 ° C. or higher. Peak temperature is 1
If the temperature is lower than 00 ° C., there is a possibility of shrinkage at a low temperature, shrinkage in a step other than the shrinkage step, for example, a knitting step, the property of the polyester filament yarn is reduced before the shrinkage step, or during dyeing processing. In such cases, the knitted fabric may be wrinkled, which is not preferable. Here, the peak temperature is a temperature at which the maximum dry heat shrinkage is shown. As a measurement method, in the same manner as the water-saving shrinkage measurement described above,
The temperature at which the maximum shrinkage is shown is detected by variously changing the processing temperature. The maximum thermal stress value of the high shrinkable polyester filament yarn needs to be 0.4 g / d, preferably 0.4 g / d.
It is preferably from 0.7 to 0.7 g / d, most preferably from 0.45 to 0.65 g / d. If the maximum thermal stress value is less than 0.4 g / d, sufficient shrinkage cannot be given to the knitted fabric, and it becomes difficult to make the nylon 6 filament yarn appear mainly on the surface, which is not preferable. The method for measuring the maximum thermal stress value is as described above. The polyester filament yarn used in the present invention needs to satisfy the above three conditions. For example, even if the boiling water shrinkage is 40%, the maximum thermal stress value is 0.4 g / d
When the amount is less than the above range, the knitted fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk. Also, even if the maximum thermal stress value is 0.4 g / d or more, if the boiling water shrinkage is less than 20%, sufficient shrinkage cannot be given to the knitted fabric. That is, in order to impart the shrinkage aimed at by the present invention to the knitted fabric, the conventional reference value of boiling water shrinkage alone is not sufficient, and both the boiling water shrinkage ratio and the maximum thermal stress value are in specific ranges. Is necessary. The high shrinkage polyester filament yarn as described above can be obtained by melt-spinning a specific polyester polymer. That is, it can be obtained by using a terpolymer polyester in which the total of ethylene glycol and terephthalic acid is 85 mol% or more, and the amount of isophthalic acid or the like is 15 mol% or less. The above-described low shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn and high shrinkage polyester filament yarn are mixed to prepare a mixed yarn. As a method for producing a mixed yarn, a multifilament yarn composed of a low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn and a multifilament yarn composed of a high-shrinkage polyester filament yarn may be mixed or twisted. As the multifilament yarn, a melt-spun yarn may be used or a false-twisted yarn may be used. In particular, when a false-twisted yarn is used as a low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn and a non-false-twisted yarn is used as a high-shrinkage polyester-based multifilament yarn, a low shrinkage is obtained. Nylon 6 filament yarn tends to appear on the surface of the mixed yarn, and it is preferable to use this to apply the present invention, since a fabric having a good feeling can be obtained. The single yarn fineness of the low shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn and the high shrinkage polyester filament yarn is preferably about 1.0 to 5.0 denier (d). In particular, it is preferable to make the single-filament fineness of the low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn appearing on the surface of the fabric smaller than that of the high-shrinkage polyester-based filament yarn because the feel of the fabric becomes soft. The mixing ratio of the low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn and the high-shrinkage polyester-based filament yarn in the mixed yarn is preferably set to 60 or less when the total fineness of the former is 100. If the mixing ratio of the high shrinkage polyester filament yarn exceeds 60 in total fineness, there is a possibility that a large amount of the high shrinkage polyester filament yarn will appear on the surface of the obtained fabric. This mixed yarn must be contained in the knitted fabric at least 35% by weight or more. If the amount of the mixed yarn is less than 35% by weight, the knitted fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk, which is not preferable. Further, as the knitting structure of the knitted fabric, conventionally known various ones can be arbitrarily adopted. In addition, after knitting and weaving, it is preferable not to dry or sizing at high temperature. This is because there is a possibility that the shrinkage of the highly shrinkable polyester filament yarn may be hindered. This knitted fabric is subjected to a shrinkage treatment using superheated steam at 130 to 220 ° C. In the shrinking treatment, it is preferable to keep the knitted fabric free, that is, to keep the knitted fabric free as much as possible. When the temperature of the superheated steam falls below 130 ° C,
It is not preferable because sufficient shrinkage cannot be given to the knitted fabric. When the temperature of the superheated steam exceeds 220 ° C., rapid shrinkage occurs, and irregularities are likely to be generated on the fabric surface,
Not preferred. If hot water is used without using superheated steam, good shrinkage cannot be given to the knitted fabric. That is, if hot water having a temperature of less than about 90 ° C. is used, the knitted fabric cannot be sufficiently shrunk. If hot water having a temperature of about 100 ° C. or more is used, the low-shrinkable nylon 6 filament yarn is brittle. The texture of the resulting fabric is reduced, or the knitted fabric shrinks sharply, and large irregularities in a non-uniform texture appear on the surface of the fabric. After shrinking the knitted fabric, a high-density fabric is obtained by performing dyeing by a conventionally known method using a disperse dye, an acid dye, or the like, or performing a conventionally known finishing process.

【Example】

Example A nylon 6 filament yarn of 70 denier / 34 filaments composed of a low shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn having a birefringence of 0.045, a boiling water shrinkage of 9.2% and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.07 g / d was prepared. This nylon 6 filament yarn was produced by a one-step high-speed spinning method with the spinning take-off speed set at 4500 m / min. In addition, the cutting elongation of the low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn was 58%. On the other hand, a polyester obtained by adding 12 mol% of an isophthalic acid component in addition to the ethylene glycol component and the terephthalic acid component was melt-spun to obtain a highly shrinkable polyester filament yarn. The boiling water shrinkage of this highly shrinkable polyester filament yarn was 25%, the peak temperature was 132 ° C., and the maximum thermal stress value was 0.5 g / d. Then, a 30-denier / 12-filament polyester-based multifilament yarn composed of the high-shrinkable polyester-based filament yarn was prepared. The nylon 6 filament yarn and polyester multifilament yarn were aligned and interlaced to obtain a mixed yarn. Using this mixed yarn as a warp and a weft, a plain fabric having a warp density of 120 yarns / inch and a weft density of 85 yarns / inch was woven. This plain fabric was subjected to a shrinkage treatment by an HTS steamer (continuous superheated steaming) at a temperature of 180 ° C. for a time of 1 minute. As a result, the plain fabric is
%, Shrink 28% in the weft direction, warp density 154 / inch, weft density 117
Book / inch. Using a circular dyeing machine manufactured by Hisaka Seisakusho, 1 g / l of caustic soda and 1 g / l of Sun Mall FL (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd., surfactant) were applied to the thus contracted plain fabric. Using it, scouring was performed under the conditions of a temperature of 80 ° C. and a time of 20 minutes. Next, using the above-mentioned dyeing machine, dyeing was carried out at a temperature of 90 ° C. for a time of 30 minutes and with an acidic dye. The resulting fabric is
It had moderate firmness and waist, had little irritation and grain on the surface, and had good feeling and appearance. Comparative Example 1 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in the example, except that the shrinkage treatment of the plain woven fabric was performed at a temperature of 90 ° C. for 1 minute with hot water. As a result, the shrinkage of the plain fabric is insufficient, that is,
%, The shrinkage was only 10% in the weft direction. Therefore, the plain fabric after shrinkage had a warp density of 132 yarns / inch and a weft density of 98 yarns / inch. Moreover, the obtained fabric lacked firmness and waist, and the surface of the fabric exhibited creasing due to uneven shrinkage. Comparative Example 2 The conditions for the shrinkage treatment of the plain fabric were a temperature of 110 ° C. and a time of 10 hours.
A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in the example, except that shrinkage treatment was performed with hot water for a minute and using a jet dyeing machine. As a result, the plain fabric shrinks sufficiently, i.e., 40
%, Shrank 30% in the weft direction. Therefore, the plain fabric after shrinkage had a warp density of 156 fibers / inch and a weft density of 120 fibers / inch. However, the texture of the obtained fabric was hard, and large unevenness in a non-uniform and depressed texture due to rapid shrinkage was observed on the surface of the fabric. Comparative Example 3 A fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example, except that a high shrinkage polyester filament yarn having a boiling water shrinkage of 40% and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.3 g / d was used. As a result, the shrinkage of the plain fabric is insufficient, that is, 17
%, Only 10% shrunk in the weft direction. Therefore, the plain fabric after shrinkage had a warp density of 132 fibers / inch and a weft density of 100 fibers / inch. In addition, the obtained fabric lacked firmness and waist, and its surface was irritated.

[Action and effect of the invention]

As described above, the method for producing a high-density fabric according to the present invention comprises mixing a low-shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn having specific physical properties with a high-shrinkage polyester filament yarn having specific physical properties. The knitted fabric using a fixed amount of the mixed yarn is subjected to a shrinkage treatment with superheated steam at 130 to 220 ° C. Accordingly, the high shrinkage polyester filament yarn shrinks with a large displacement, while the low shrinkage nylon 6 filament yarn hardly displaces relatively. Accordingly, a yarn length difference occurs between the former filament yarn and the latter filament yarn, the latter filament yarn covers the former filament yarn, and the nylon 6 filament yarn appears on the surface of the knitted fabric. As a result, the knitted fabric after shrinkage exhibits the characteristics of nylon 6 filament yarn in appearance, and the surface thereof exhibits the characteristics of nylon 6 filament yarn even in dyeing and finishing. In addition, the composition of the knitted fabric becomes high in density due to the large shrinkage of the high-shrinkable polyester filament yarn, and the resulting fabric can be firm and stiff. As a result, the fabric obtained by the method according to the present invention has firmness and stiffness, has an excellent surface feel, has little irritation and grain, and is useful for clothing and the like.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────の Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification symbol FI D03D 15/00 D03D 15/00 A D06P 5/00 101 D06P 5/00 101 (56) References JP-A-54-112266 (JP) , A) JP-A-62-289647 (JP, A) (58) Fields investigated (Int. Cl. ⁶ , DB name) D06C 29/00 D02G 1/18 D02G 3/04 D01F 6/60 D01F 6/62 D03D 15/00 D06P 5/00

Claims (1)

(57) [Claims] 1. A low-shrinkable nylon that satisfies three conditions: a birefringence of 0.035 to 0.045, a boiling water shrinkage of 10% or less, and a maximum thermal stress value of 0.1 g / d or less. 6 filament yarns, boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more, peak temperature of 100 ° C or more, maximum thermal stress value of 0.4g /
A knitted woven fabric containing at least 35% by weight or more of a mixed yarn obtained by mixing a high-shrinkable polyester filament yarn satisfying the three conditions of at least d is 130 to 220.
A method for producing a high-density fabric, comprising performing shrinkage treatment with superheated steam at a temperature of ° C. and then performing dyeing.