JP4263561B2 - Polyester crimped yarn, method for producing the same, and woven or knitted fabric containing the processed yarn - Google Patents
Polyester crimped yarn, method for producing the same, and woven or knitted fabric containing the processed yarn Download PDFInfo
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- JP4263561B2 JP4263561B2 JP2003295155A JP2003295155A JP4263561B2 JP 4263561 B2 JP4263561 B2 JP 4263561B2 JP 2003295155 A JP2003295155 A JP 2003295155A JP 2003295155 A JP2003295155 A JP 2003295155A JP 4263561 B2 JP4263561 B2 JP 4263561B2
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- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 title claims description 39
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims description 32
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title description 2
- WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N adipic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CCCCC(O)=O WNLRTRBMVRJNCN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 36
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 claims description 20
- 235000011037 adipic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000001361 adipic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 17
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 14
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 11
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 7
- 206010016322 Feeling abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 6
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 6
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000004804 winding Methods 0.000 description 5
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 description 4
- GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titan oxide Chemical compound O=[Ti]=O GWEVSGVZZGPLCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 3
- -1 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229920000139 polyethylene terephthalate Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 description 3
- 238000002788 crimping Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000013078 crystal Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000010419 fine particle Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000006116 polymerization reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000001028 reflection method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 2
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M Acetate Chemical compound CC([O-])=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylic acid group Chemical group C(C=C)(=O)O NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002216 antistatic agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004020 conductor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000006872 improvement Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002484 inorganic compounds Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910010272 inorganic material Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010954 inorganic particle Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001678 irradiating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000087 stabilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Description
本発明は、レーヨン調の優れた光沢感と、フクラミ感、ソフト感や、しなやかさといった風合いを織編物に付与可能で、常圧でカチオン染料を用いた染色が可能なポリエステル捲縮加工糸及び同加工糸を含む織編物に関する。 The present invention is a polyester crimped yarn capable of imparting a texture such as glossiness, rayon-like glossiness, softness, softness and suppleness to a woven or knitted fabric, and capable of being dyed with a cationic dye at normal pressure. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric containing the processed yarn.
従来から、インナーレース等の衣料分野を中心に、優れた光沢感とソフト感といった風合いを兼ね備えたレーヨン繊維が多く用いられてきた。しかし、レーヨン繊維は繊維強度があまり高くないこと、並びに吸水することで伸縮挙動による変形、シワの発生等が起こり易く取り扱いが難しいものであった。 Conventionally, rayon fibers having a texture such as excellent gloss and softness have been used mainly in the clothing field such as inner lace. However, rayon fibers are not very high in fiber strength, and they are difficult to handle because they are easily deformed and wrinkled due to water absorption.
そこで、一般に取り扱いの容易な合成繊維で優れた光沢を有する素材提案が為されてきた。例えば、特許文献1には無機化合物の含有量の少ないポリエステルからなる仮撚加工糸が記載されている。また、特許文献2には特定のトルク撚り数を有する光沢糸が記載されている。
しかし、これらの技術では、染色を行なう際の高温高圧処理による光沢低下が避けらないものであり、さらに、ソフト感やしなやかさといった風合いも不十分なものである。 However, these techniques inevitably cause a decrease in gloss due to high-temperature and high-pressure treatment during dyeing, and further, the texture such as softness and flexibility is insufficient.
本発明の第1の要旨は、共重合成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分及びアジピン酸成分を含むポリエステルマルチフィラメントからなり、マルチフィラメントを構成する単繊維の断面形状が三角断面であり、残留捲縮率が0.5〜4.0%、熱水収縮率が1.0〜5.0%、加工糸光沢度が8.5以上であることを特徴とするポリエステル捲縮加工糸にある。 The first gist of the present invention is a polyester multifilament comprising a 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as copolymerization components, and the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the multifilament is a triangular cross section. A polyester crimped yarn characterized by a shrinkage ratio of 0.5 to 4.0%, a hot water shrinkage ratio of 1.0 to 5.0%, and a processed yarn glossiness of 8.5 or more.
また本発明の第2の要旨は、共重合成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分及びアジピン酸成分を含むポリエステルマルチフィラメントであって、マルチフィラメントを構成する単繊維の断面形状が三角断面であるポリエステルマルチフィラメントを、仮撚温度80〜130℃、仮撚数が15000×D−1/2〜28000×D−1/2(T/m)(D:繊度(デシテックス))で仮撚加工を行うことを特徴とするポリエステル捲縮加工糸の製造方法にある。 The second gist of the present invention is a polyester multifilament containing a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as copolymerization components , wherein the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the multifilament is a triangular cross-section. The multifilament is false twisted at a false twist temperature of 80 to 130 ° C. and a false twist number of 15000 × D −1/2 to 28000 × D −1/2 (T / m) (D: fineness (decitex)). It is in the manufacturing method of the polyester crimped yarn characterized by the above-mentioned.
さらに本発明の第3の要旨は、本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸を含む織編物にある。 Furthermore, the third gist of the present invention resides in a woven or knitted fabric including the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention.
本発明は、常圧でカチオン染料を用いた染色が可能で、染色後もレーヨン調の優れた光沢感を有し、ソフトで且つしなやかな風合いを織編物に付与可能なポリエステル捲縮加工糸が得られる。 The present invention provides a polyester crimped yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye at normal pressure, has an excellent gloss of rayon tone even after dyeing, and can impart a soft and supple texture to a woven or knitted fabric. can get.
本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸は、共重合成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分及びアジピン酸成分を含むポリエステルマルチフィラメントからなることが必要である。 The polyester crimped yarn of the present invention needs to be composed of a polyester multifilament containing a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as copolymerization components.
5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分は、カチオン染料に対する染着座席として機能する。アジピン酸成分はポリエチレンテレフタレートの結晶に乱れを付与し、非晶部の配向を低下させ、染料の繊維内部への浸透を容易にし、常圧可染性を向上させ、さらに、風合いをソフトにするものである。 The 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component functions as a dyeing seat for the cationic dye. The adipic acid component disturbs the crystal of polyethylene terephthalate, lowers the orientation of the amorphous part, facilitates penetration of the dye into the fiber, improves atmospheric pressure dyeability, and softens the texture. Is.
通常のカチオン染色は、染色温度120℃の加圧下で行うため、加熱により光沢が低下するが、本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸は、染色温度100℃、常圧で染色可能なため、染色後も優れた光沢が得られるものである。 Since normal cationic dyeing is performed under a pressure of 120 ° C., the gloss is reduced by heating. However, the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention can be dyed at a dyeing temperature of 100 ° C. at normal pressure, so Excellent gloss can be obtained.
また、アジピン酸成分をポリエチレンテレフタレートに共重合すると、低温セット性にも効果があり、本発明により得られる繊維を織編物にしてから形態安定化のために熱セットする場合、熱セット温度を低くすることが可能となる。ニット用途において低温セット性は好ましい物性であり、アセテート、アクリル、ウール等のポリエステル以外の素材と複合する場合、熱セットに必要な温度をポリエステル以外の素材の物性が低下しない程度に抑えることが可能となる。また、ポリエステル繊維の単独使いにおいても、一般的なニット用設備に対応が可能となり用途拡大が期待できる。 In addition, copolymerization of adipic acid component with polyethylene terephthalate also has an effect on low-temperature setting property. When heat-setting the fibers obtained according to the present invention for woven or knitted fabric and stabilizing the shape, the heat-setting temperature is lowered. It becomes possible to do. Low temperature setting is a desirable property for knit applications, and when combined with materials other than polyester, such as acetate, acrylic, wool, etc., the temperature required for heat setting can be suppressed to the extent that physical properties of materials other than polyester do not deteriorate. It becomes. In addition, even when polyester fiber is used alone, it can be used for general knit equipment, and its application can be expected to expand.
5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分の共重合量は1.5〜3.0モル%が好ましい。5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分の共重合量が1.5モル%未満では、カチオン染料に対する染色性が不足するとともに、加工糸のソフト感やしなやかさが不十分なものとなりやすい。一方、3.0モル%を超えると5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸の増粘効果により重合時のトルクが著しく高くなり、実際の重合度が上がらず、繊維化した時の繊維強度が低下しやすい。 The copolymerization amount of the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is preferably 1.5 to 3.0 mol%. When the copolymerization amount of the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is less than 1.5 mol%, the dyeability with respect to the cationic dye is insufficient, and the softness and flexibility of the processed yarn tends to be insufficient. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3.0 mol%, the torque at the time of polymerization is remarkably increased due to the thickening effect of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, the actual degree of polymerization does not increase, and the fiber strength when fiberized tends to decrease.
また、アジピン酸成分の共重合量は、2.0〜7.0モル%が好ましい。アジピン酸成分の共重合量が2.0モル%未満では、常圧染色をした場合十分に濃色染色されないと共に、カチオン染色性も不十分となりやすく、一方、アジピン酸の共重合量が7.0モル%を越えると、染色堅牢度が不十分となりやすく、他の織編物を汚染しやすい。 The copolymerization amount of the adipic acid component is preferably 2.0 to 7.0 mol%. When the copolymerization amount of the adipic acid component is less than 2.0 mol%, the dyeing at normal pressure does not sufficiently darken the color and the cationic dyeing property tends to be insufficient, while the copolymerization amount of adipic acid is 7. If it exceeds 0 mol%, the dyeing fastness tends to be insufficient, and other woven or knitted fabrics are likely to be contaminated.
さらに本発明では、残留捲縮率が0.5〜4.0%、熱水収縮率が1.0〜5.0%であることが必要である。 Furthermore, in the present invention, it is necessary that the residual crimp rate is 0.5 to 4.0% and the hot water shrinkage rate is 1.0 to 5.0%.
残留捲縮率は加工糸の捲縮の程度を示す指標であり、織編物にしたときのフクラミ感や柔軟さに反映される。残留捲縮率が0.5%未満であると、フクラミ感が無くなるために織編物がペーパーライクとなる。一方、4.0%を超えると3次元的な捲縮構造により光の乱反射が強くなり光沢感が損なわれる。 The residual crimp rate is an index indicating the degree of crimp of the processed yarn, and is reflected in the feeling of fluffiness and flexibility when the knitted or knitted fabric is formed. If the residual crimp rate is less than 0.5%, the knitted fabric becomes paper-like because the feeling of fluffiness is lost. On the other hand, if it exceeds 4.0%, the irregular reflection of light becomes strong due to the three-dimensional crimped structure, and the glossiness is impaired.
更に、熱水収縮率は、織編物を染色工程等で加熱処理したときの収縮発現に関係し、フクラミ感に影響するものである。熱水収縮率が1.0%未満であると、織編物のフクラミ感が不十分なものとなり、熱水収縮率が5.0%を超えると、織編物にフクラミ感は得られるものの、織編物表面に構成糸条の飛び出しが多くなり、織編物表面の光乱反射が強くなり光沢感が損なわれる。 Furthermore, the hot water shrinkage rate is related to the shrinkage expression when the woven or knitted fabric is heat-treated in a dyeing process or the like, and affects the feeling of scum. If the hot water shrinkage rate is less than 1.0%, the knitted fabric will have an insufficient flaming feeling. If the hot water shrinkage rate exceeds 5.0%, the woven or knitted fabric will have a flaky feeling. The protruding yarns on the surface of the knitted fabric increase, and the diffused reflection of light on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes strong, resulting in a loss of gloss.
また本発明では、ポリエステルマルチフィラメントを構成する単繊維の断面形状が、三角断面であることが、優れた光沢を得る点で好ましい。 Moreover, in this invention, it is preferable that the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber which comprises a polyester multifilament is a triangular cross section at the point which obtains the outstanding glossiness.
なお光沢は、60度鏡面反射法にて測定を行なった加工糸光沢度が、8.5以上あることがレーヨン調の優れた光沢感を織編物に付与するうえで好ましい。 In addition, it is preferable that the glossiness of the processed yarn measured by the 60-degree specular reflection method is 8.5 or more in order to give the woven or knitted fabric an excellent glossiness of rayon tone.
さらに本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸は、本発明の効果を損なわない範囲で、無機粒子、導電性物質、酸化防止剤、耐候剤、帯電防止剤等の他成分が含有及び/或いは表面付着されていても良い。 Furthermore, the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention contains other components such as inorganic particles, conductive materials, antioxidants, weathering agents and antistatic agents and / or is attached to the surface within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention. May be.
また、本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸は、共重合成分として5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分及びアジピン酸成分を含むポリエステルマルチフィラメントを、仮撚温度80〜130℃、仮撚数が15000×D−1/2〜28000×D−1/2(T/m)で仮撚加工を行うことによって得られる。 The polyester crimped yarn of the present invention is a polyester multifilament containing a 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as a copolymer component, a false twist temperature of 80 to 130 ° C., and a false twist number of 15000 × D −. It is obtained by performing false twisting at 1/2 to 28000 × D −1/2 (T / m).
5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸成分は、カチオン染料に対する染着座席として機能する。アジピン酸成分はポリエチレンテレフタレートの結晶に乱れを付与し、非晶部の配向を低下させ、染料の繊維内部への浸透を容易にし、常圧可染性を向上させ、さらに、風合いをソフトにするものである。 The 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component functions as a dyeing seat for the cationic dye. The adipic acid component disturbs the crystal of polyethylene terephthalate, lowers the orientation of the amorphous part, facilitates penetration of the dye into the fiber, improves atmospheric pressure dyeability, and softens the texture. Is.
本発明では、仮撚温度80〜130℃で、仮撚数15000×D−1/2〜28000×D−1/2(T/m)の仮撚加工を行うことにより、目的とする残留捲縮率、熱水収縮率が得られる。 In the present invention, by performing false twisting with a false twist number of 15000 × D −1/2 to 28000 × D −1/2 (T / m) at a false twist temperature of 80 to 130 ° C. Shrinkage and hot water shrinkage can be obtained.
仮撚温度は80〜130℃が必要である。仮撚温度が80℃未満では仮撚時の熱セット効果が低く、加工糸のフクラミ感が無くなるために織編物がペーパーライクとなり、130℃を超えると熱セット効果が高い為、加工糸の大きな3次元的捲縮構造により光の乱反射が強くなり光沢感が損なわれる。 The false twisting temperature needs to be 80-130 ° C. If the false twisting temperature is less than 80 ° C, the heat setting effect during false twisting is low, and the knitted fabric becomes paper-like because there is no feeling of fluffiness in the processed yarn. Due to the three-dimensional crimped structure, diffused reflection of light becomes strong and glossiness is impaired.
また、仮撚数は15000×D−1/2〜28000×D−1/2(T/m)が必要である。仮撚数が15000×D−1/2(T/m)未満では十分な仮撚捲縮を得られず、加工糸のフクラミ感が無くなるために織編物がペーパーライクとなり、28000×D−1/2(T/m)を超えると、仮撚捲縮効果が高い為、加工糸の大きな3次元的捲縮構造により光の乱反射が強くなり光沢感が損なわれる。 The number of false twists is required to be 15000 × D −1/2 to 28000 × D −1/2 (T / m). If the number of false twists is less than 15000 × D −1/2 (T / m), sufficient false twist crimps cannot be obtained, and the knitted or knitted fabric becomes paper-like because there is no fluffiness in the processed yarn, resulting in 28000 × D −1. If it exceeds / 2 (T / m), the false twist crimping effect is high, and the diffuse reflection of light becomes strong due to the large three-dimensional crimped structure of the processed yarn, and the glossiness is impaired.
また、仮撚トルクの低減による後工程通過性の向上等の目的に応じて、仮撚後に第2ヒーターを用いて熱セットを行なうことも可能である。 Moreover, it is also possible to heat-set using a 2nd heater after false twisting according to the objectives, such as improvement of the post-process passage property by reduction of false twisting torque.
また、本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸を含む織編物は、その混率並びに織編物組織を、目的の風合いや製品外観が得られる範囲で決定すればよい。また、本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸単独からなる織編物、または該加工糸と他繊維との合撚糸からなる織編物、該加工糸を織編物の一部に用いた織編物でもよく、本発明のポリエステル捲縮加工糸の効果が得られる範囲内で種々の織編物を得ることが可能である。 Moreover, the woven or knitted fabric containing the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention may be determined in the range in which the desired texture and product appearance can be obtained in terms of the mixing ratio and woven / knitted fabric structure. Further, a woven or knitted fabric made of the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention alone, a woven or knitted fabric made of a twisted yarn of the processed yarn and other fibers, or a woven or knitted fabric using the processed yarn as a part of the woven or knitted fabric may be used. Various woven or knitted fabrics can be obtained within a range where the effect of the polyester crimped yarn of the invention can be obtained.
以下に本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。なお、各物性は次の方法で求めた。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. Each physical property was determined by the following method.
(1)加工糸光沢度
試料の加工糸を約5cmの幅に隙間なく平行に並べた光沢測定用試料を作成し、光沢計(PG−1M、日本電色工業製)を用いて、繊維軸と直角方向で、且つ試料平面に対して60度の方向から光をあて、60度鏡面反射法にて測定を行なった。
(1) Glossiness of processed yarn A sample for gloss measurement in which processed yarns of a sample are arranged in parallel in a width of about 5 cm without any gap is prepared, and a fiber shaft is measured using a gloss meter (PG-1M, manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.). The measurement was performed by a 60-degree specular reflection method by irradiating light from a direction of 60 degrees with respect to the sample plane.
(2)残留捲縮率
JIS−L−1015に準拠して測定した。
(2) Residual crimp rate Measured according to JIS-L-1015.
(3)熱水収縮率
JIS−L−1013に準拠して測定した。
(3) Hot water shrinkage rate Measured according to JIS-L-1013.
(4)風合い評価
得られた加工糸を用い、20ゲージの一口通編み機で製編し、この編み地を精練(精練温度70℃、精練時間15分)し、次いで下記条件で染色を行った。その後、ハンドリングならびに目視判定による評価を行なった。
(4) Texture evaluation Using the obtained processed yarn, knitting was performed with a 20-gauge single-pitch knitting machine, the knitted fabric was scoured (scouring temperature 70 ° C., scouring time 15 minutes), and then dyed under the following conditions. . Then, evaluation by handling and visual judgment was performed.
カチオン染料:Cathilon blue K−GLH(保土ヶ谷化学工業社製) 1.0%(筒編地重量に対して)
染色助剤 :Ultra MT−N2(大和化学工業社製)0.5g/L(染浴容積に 対して)
浴比 :1:30
処理 :100℃×30分(常圧染色)
Cationic dye: Cathilon blue K-GLH (Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1.0% (based on the weight of the tubular knitted fabric)
Dyeing assistant: Ultra MT-N2 (manufactured by Daiwa Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / L (for dye bath volume)
Bath ratio: 1:30
Treatment: 100 ° C. × 30 minutes (normal pressure staining)
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸(三角断面84デシテックス48フィラメント、5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸(以下、DMSと称す)成分共重合量:2.25モル%、アジピン酸成分共重合量:5.0モル%、二酸化チタン含有量:0.05重量%)を用いて、三菱重工製LS−6加工機で、加工速度100m/分、仮撚オーバーフィード率3%、1stヒーター温度(仮撚温度)110℃、2ndヒーター温度140℃、仮撚数2560T/m、2ndヒーター内オーバーフィード率10%、巻き取り速度92.4m/分にて仮撚加工を行い、残留捲縮率1.5%、熱水収縮率2.3%のポリエステル捲縮加工糸を得た。 Polyester multifilament yarn (triangular section 84 dtex 48 filament, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid (hereinafter referred to as DMS) component copolymerization amount: 2.25 mol%, adipic acid component copolymerization amount: 5.0 mol%, dioxide dioxide Titanium content: 0.05% by weight), with Mitsubishi Heavy Industries LS-6 processing machine, processing speed 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate 3%, 1st heater temperature (false twist temperature) 110 ° C, 2nd Performs false twisting at a heater temperature of 140 ° C., a false twist number of 2560 T / m, a 2nd heater overfeed rate of 10%, a winding speed of 92.4 m / min, a residual crimp rate of 1.5%, and a hot water shrinkage rate. 2. 3% polyester crimped yarn was obtained.
得られた捲縮加工糸は、加工糸光沢度9.3で優れた光沢感があった。風合い評価を行なったところ、製編時に特に問題なく、得られた編み地は、レーヨン調の優れた光沢感と、フクラミ感、ソフト感としなやかさといった風合いを有していた。また、カチオン染色特有の発色性の良さを有するものであった。 The crimped yarn obtained had an excellent gloss with a processed yarn glossiness of 9.3. As a result of texture evaluation, there was no particular problem during knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had an excellent rayon-like gloss feeling, a flaming feeling, a soft feeling and a soft feeling. Further, it had good color development characteristic of cationic dyeing.
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸(三角断面84デシテックス48フィラメント、DMS成分共重合量:2.25モル%、アジピン酸成分共重合量:5.0モル%、無機微粒子含有無し)を用いて、三菱重工製LS−6加工機で、加工速度100m/分、仮撚オーバーフィード率3%、1stヒーター温度110℃、2ndヒーター温度140℃、仮撚数2560T/m、2ndヒーター内オーバーフィード率10%、巻き取り速度92.4m/分にて仮撚加工を行い、残留捲縮率1.4%、熱水収縮率2.6%のポリエステル捲縮加工糸を得た。 LS made by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries using polyester multifilament yarn (triangular section 84 dtex 48 filament, DMS component copolymerization amount: 2.25 mol%, adipic acid component copolymerization amount: 5.0 mol%, no inorganic fine particles) -6 Processing machine, processing speed 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate 3%, 1st heater temperature 110 ° C, 2nd heater temperature 140 ° C, false twist number 2560T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate 10%, winding False twisting was performed at a speed of 92.4 m / min to obtain a polyester crimped yarn having a residual crimp rate of 1.4% and a hot water shrinkage rate of 2.6%.
得られた捲縮加工糸は、加工糸光沢度10.5で優れた光沢感があった。風合い評価を行なったところ、製編時に特に問題なく、得られた編み地は、レーヨン調の優れた光沢感と、フクラミ感、ソフト感としなやかさといった風合いを有していた。また、カチオン染色特有の発色性の良さを有するものであった。 The obtained crimped yarn had excellent gloss with a processed yarn glossiness of 10.5. As a result of texture evaluation, there was no particular problem during knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had an excellent rayon-like gloss feeling, a flaming feeling, a soft feeling and a soft feeling. Further, it had good color development characteristic of cationic dyeing.
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸(三角断面190デシテックス48フィラメント、DMS成分共重合量:2.25モル%、アジピン酸成分共重合量:5.0モル%、無機微粒子含有無し)を用いて、三菱重工製LS−6加工機で、加工速度100m/分、仮撚オーバーフィード率3%、1stヒーター温度120℃、2ndヒーター温度150℃、仮撚数1470T/m、2ndヒーター内オーバーフィード率10%、巻き取り速度94.0m/分にて仮撚加工を行い、残留捲縮率1.0%、熱水収縮率3.6%のポリエステル捲縮加工糸を得た。 LS made by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries using polyester multifilament yarn (triangular section 190 dtex 48 filament, DMS component copolymerization amount: 2.25 mol%, adipic acid component copolymerization amount: 5.0 mol%, no inorganic fine particles contained) -6 processing machine, processing speed 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate 3%, 1st heater temperature 120 ° C, 2nd heater temperature 150 ° C, false twist number 1470T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate 10%, winding False twisting was performed at a speed of 94.0 m / min to obtain a polyester crimped yarn having a residual crimp rate of 1.0% and a hot water shrinkage rate of 3.6%.
得られた捲縮加工糸は、加工糸光沢度10.2で優れた光沢感があった。風合い評価を行なったところ、製編時に特に問題なく、得られた編み地は、レーヨン調の優れた光沢感と、フクラミ感、ソフト感としなやかさといった風合いを有していた。また、カチオン染色特有の発色性の良さを有するものであった。 The obtained crimped yarn had excellent gloss with a processed yarn glossiness of 10.2. As a result of texture evaluation, there was no particular problem during knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had an excellent rayon-like gloss feeling, a flaming feeling, a soft feeling and a soft feeling. Further, it had good color development characteristic of cationic dyeing.
(比較例1)
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸(丸断面84デシテックス72フィラメント、DMS成分共重合無し、アジピン酸成分共重合無し、二酸化チタン含有量:0.46重量%)を用いて、三菱重工製LS−6加工機で、加工速度100m/分、仮撚オーバーフィード率2%、1stヒーター温度215℃、仮撚数3100T/m、2ndヒーター内オーバーフィード率0%(ヒーターは加温しない)、巻き取り速度95.6m/分にて仮撚加工を行い、残留捲縮率54.4%、熱水収縮率16.2%のポリエステル捲縮加工糸を得た。
(Comparative Example 1)
Using a polyester multifilament yarn (round section 84 dtex 72 filament, no DMS component copolymerization, no adipic acid component copolymerization, titanium dioxide content: 0.46% by weight), an LS-6 processing machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Processing speed 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate 2%, 1st heater temperature 215 ° C, false twist number 3100T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate 0% (heater does not heat), take-up speed 95.6m / The yarn was false twisted to obtain a polyester crimped yarn having a residual crimp rate of 54.4% and a hot water shrinkage rate of 16.2%.
得られた捲縮加工糸は、加工糸光沢度6.1で光沢感が不十分なものであった。風合い評価を行なったところ、得られた編み地は、仮撚捲縮によるフクラミ感、ソフト感を有するものの、光沢感やしなやかさといった点では不十分なものであった。また、カチオン染料では殆ど染色されないものであった。 The obtained crimped yarn had a glossiness of a processed yarn of 6.1 and an insufficient glossiness. When the texture evaluation was performed, the obtained knitted fabric had a feeling of softness and softness due to false twist crimp, but was insufficient in terms of glossiness and suppleness. Further, it was hardly dyed with a cationic dye.
(比較例2)
実施例1と同じポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を用いて、三菱重工製LS−6加工機で、加工速度100m/分、仮撚オーバーフィード率4%、1stヒーター温度160℃、2ndヒーター温度155℃、仮撚数2600T/m、2ndヒーター内オーバーフィード率12%、巻き取り速度92m/分にて仮撚加工を行い、残留捲縮率16.8%、熱水収縮率2.2%のポリエステル捲縮加工糸を得た。
(Comparative Example 2)
Using the same polyester multifilament yarn as in Example 1, with a LS-6 processing machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, a processing speed of 100 m / min, a false twist overfeed rate of 4%, a first heater temperature of 160 ° C., a second heater temperature of 155 ° C., Polyester crimping with false twisting of 26.8T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate of 12%, winding speed of 92m / min, residual crimp rate of 16.8%, hot water shrinkage rate of 2.2% A processed yarn was obtained.
得られた捲縮加工糸は、加工糸光沢度8.2で光沢感が不十分なものであった。風合い評価を行なったところ、得られた編み地は、仮撚捲縮によるフクラミ感、ソフト感を有するものの、光沢感やしなやかさといった点では不十分なものであった。 The crimped yarn thus obtained had a glossiness of processed yarn of 8.2 and an insufficient gloss. When the texture evaluation was performed, the obtained knitted fabric had a feeling of softness and softness due to false twist crimp, but was insufficient in terms of glossiness and suppleness.
(比較例3)
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸(丸断面84デシテックス24フィラメント、DMS成分:2.25モル%、アジピン酸成分共重合無し、二酸化チタン含有量:0.46重量%)を用いて、三菱重工製LS−6加工機で、加工速度100m/分、仮撚オーバーフィード率2%、1stヒーター温度110℃、2ndヒーター温度140℃、仮撚数2560T/m、2ndヒーター内オーバーフィード率10%、巻き取り速度92.4m/分にて仮撚加工を行い、残留捲縮率1.3%、熱水収縮率1.0%のポリエステル捲縮加工糸を得た。
(Comparative Example 3)
LS-6 processed by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries using polyester multifilament yarn (round cross section 84 dtex 24 filament, DMS component: 2.25 mol%, no adipic acid component copolymerization, titanium dioxide content: 0.46 wt%) Machine with a processing speed of 100 m / min, false twist overfeed rate of 2%, 1st heater temperature of 110 ° C., 2nd heater temperature of 140 ° C., false twist number of 2560 T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate of 10%, winding speed of 92. False twisting was performed at 4 m / min to obtain a polyester crimped yarn having a residual crimp rate of 1.3% and a hot water shrinkage rate of 1.0%.
得られた捲縮加工糸は、アジピン酸成分を共重合していないため、常圧のカチオン染料での染色が不十分となり、通常のカチオン染色の条件である120℃の加圧下で染色を行ったところ、加工糸光沢度6で光沢感が不十分なものとなった。 Since the obtained crimped yarn does not copolymerize the adipic acid component, dyeing with a normal pressure cationic dye becomes insufficient, and dyeing is performed under a pressure of 120 ° C., which is a normal cationic dyeing condition. As a result, the glossiness of the processed yarn was 6 and the glossiness was insufficient.
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