JP4263561B2 - Polyester crimped yarn, method for producing the same, and woven or knitted fabric containing the processed yarn - Google Patents

Description

The present invention is a polyester crimped yarn capable of imparting a texture such as glossiness, rayon-like glossiness, softness, softness and suppleness to a woven or knitted fabric, and capable of being dyed with a cationic dye at normal pressure. The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric containing the processed yarn.

  Conventionally, rayon fibers having a texture such as excellent gloss and softness have been used mainly in the clothing field such as inner lace. However, rayon fibers are not very high in fiber strength, and they are difficult to handle because they are easily deformed and wrinkled due to water absorption.

Therefore, materials have been proposed that are generally easy-to-handle synthetic fibers with excellent gloss. For example, Patent Document 1 describes a false twisted yarn made of polyester with a low content of inorganic compounds. Patent Document 2 describes a glossy yarn having a specific number of torque twists.
JP-A-6-322625 JP-A-7-243134

  However, these techniques inevitably cause a decrease in gloss due to high-temperature and high-pressure treatment during dyeing, and further, the texture such as softness and flexibility is insufficient.

The first gist of the present invention is a polyester multifilament comprising a 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as copolymerization components, and the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the multifilament is a triangular cross section. A polyester crimped yarn characterized by a shrinkage ratio of 0.5 to 4.0%, a hot water shrinkage ratio of 1.0 to 5.0%, and a processed yarn glossiness of 8.5 or more.

The second gist of the present invention is a polyester multifilament containing a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as copolymerization components , wherein the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the multifilament is a triangular cross-section. The multifilament is false twisted at a false twist temperature of 80 to 130 ° C. and a false twist number of 15000 × D ^{−1/2 to} 28000 × D ^−1/2 (T / m) (D: fineness (decitex)). It is in the manufacturing method of the polyester crimped yarn characterized by the above-mentioned.

  Furthermore, the third gist of the present invention resides in a woven or knitted fabric including the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention.

  The present invention provides a polyester crimped yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye at normal pressure, has an excellent gloss of rayon tone even after dyeing, and can impart a soft and supple texture to a woven or knitted fabric. can get.

  The polyester crimped yarn of the present invention needs to be composed of a polyester multifilament containing a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as copolymerization components.

  The 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component functions as a dyeing seat for the cationic dye. The adipic acid component disturbs the crystal of polyethylene terephthalate, lowers the orientation of the amorphous part, facilitates penetration of the dye into the fiber, improves atmospheric pressure dyeability, and softens the texture. Is.

  Since normal cationic dyeing is performed under a pressure of 120 ° C., the gloss is reduced by heating. However, the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention can be dyed at a dyeing temperature of 100 ° C. at normal pressure, so Excellent gloss can be obtained.

  In addition, copolymerization of adipic acid component with polyethylene terephthalate also has an effect on low-temperature setting property. When heat-setting the fibers obtained according to the present invention for woven or knitted fabric and stabilizing the shape, the heat-setting temperature is lowered. It becomes possible to do. Low temperature setting is a desirable property for knit applications, and when combined with materials other than polyester, such as acetate, acrylic, wool, etc., the temperature required for heat setting can be suppressed to the extent that physical properties of materials other than polyester do not deteriorate. It becomes. In addition, even when polyester fiber is used alone, it can be used for general knit equipment, and its application can be expected to expand.

  The copolymerization amount of the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is preferably 1.5 to 3.0 mol%. When the copolymerization amount of the 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component is less than 1.5 mol%, the dyeability with respect to the cationic dye is insufficient, and the softness and flexibility of the processed yarn tends to be insufficient. On the other hand, if it exceeds 3.0 mol%, the torque at the time of polymerization is remarkably increased due to the thickening effect of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, the actual degree of polymerization does not increase, and the fiber strength when fiberized tends to decrease.

  The copolymerization amount of the adipic acid component is preferably 2.0 to 7.0 mol%. When the copolymerization amount of the adipic acid component is less than 2.0 mol%, the dyeing at normal pressure does not sufficiently darken the color and the cationic dyeing property tends to be insufficient, while the copolymerization amount of adipic acid is 7. If it exceeds 0 mol%, the dyeing fastness tends to be insufficient, and other woven or knitted fabrics are likely to be contaminated.

  Furthermore, in the present invention, it is necessary that the residual crimp rate is 0.5 to 4.0% and the hot water shrinkage rate is 1.0 to 5.0%.

  The residual crimp rate is an index indicating the degree of crimp of the processed yarn, and is reflected in the feeling of fluffiness and flexibility when the knitted or knitted fabric is formed. If the residual crimp rate is less than 0.5%, the knitted fabric becomes paper-like because the feeling of fluffiness is lost. On the other hand, if it exceeds 4.0%, the irregular reflection of light becomes strong due to the three-dimensional crimped structure, and the glossiness is impaired.

  Furthermore, the hot water shrinkage rate is related to the shrinkage expression when the woven or knitted fabric is heat-treated in a dyeing process or the like, and affects the feeling of scum. If the hot water shrinkage rate is less than 1.0%, the knitted fabric will have an insufficient flaming feeling. If the hot water shrinkage rate exceeds 5.0%, the woven or knitted fabric will have a flaky feeling. The protruding yarns on the surface of the knitted fabric increase, and the diffused reflection of light on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric becomes strong, resulting in a loss of gloss.

Moreover, in this invention, it is preferable that the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber which comprises a polyester multifilament is a triangular cross section at the point which obtains the outstanding glossiness.

  In addition, it is preferable that the glossiness of the processed yarn measured by the 60-degree specular reflection method is 8.5 or more in order to give the woven or knitted fabric an excellent glossiness of rayon tone.

  Furthermore, the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention contains other components such as inorganic particles, conductive materials, antioxidants, weathering agents and antistatic agents and / or is attached to the surface within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention. May be.

The polyester crimped yarn of the present invention is a polyester multifilament containing a 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as a copolymer component, a false twist temperature of 80 to 130 ° C., and a false twist number of 15000 × D ^−. It is obtained by performing false twisting at ^{1/2 to} 28000 × D ^−1/2 (T / m).

  The 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component functions as a dyeing seat for the cationic dye. The adipic acid component disturbs the crystal of polyethylene terephthalate, lowers the orientation of the amorphous part, facilitates penetration of the dye into the fiber, improves atmospheric pressure dyeability, and softens the texture. Is.

In the present invention, by performing false twisting with a false twist number of 15000 × D ^{−1/2 to} 28000 × D ^−1/2 (T / m) at a false twist temperature of 80 to 130 ° C. Shrinkage and hot water shrinkage can be obtained.

  The false twisting temperature needs to be 80-130 ° C. If the false twisting temperature is less than 80 ° C, the heat setting effect during false twisting is low, and the knitted fabric becomes paper-like because there is no feeling of fluffiness in the processed yarn. Due to the three-dimensional crimped structure, diffused reflection of light becomes strong and glossiness is impaired.

The number of false twists is required to be 15000 × D ^{−1/2 to} 28000 × D ^−1/2 (T / m). If the number of false twists is less than 15000 × D ^−1/2 (T / m), sufficient false twist crimps cannot be obtained, and the knitted or knitted fabric becomes paper-like because there is no fluffiness in the processed yarn, resulting in 28000 × D ^{−1. If} it exceeds ^{/ 2} (T / m), the false twist crimping effect is high, and the diffuse reflection of light becomes strong due to the large three-dimensional crimped structure of the processed yarn, and the glossiness is impaired.

  Moreover, it is also possible to heat-set using a 2nd heater after false twisting according to the objectives, such as improvement of the post-process passage property by reduction of false twisting torque.

  Moreover, the woven or knitted fabric containing the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention may be determined in the range in which the desired texture and product appearance can be obtained in terms of the mixing ratio and woven / knitted fabric structure. Further, a woven or knitted fabric made of the polyester crimped yarn of the present invention alone, a woven or knitted fabric made of a twisted yarn of the processed yarn and other fibers, or a woven or knitted fabric using the processed yarn as a part of the woven or knitted fabric may be used. Various woven or knitted fabrics can be obtained within a range where the effect of the polyester crimped yarn of the invention can be obtained.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. Each physical property was determined by the following method.

(1) Glossiness of processed yarn A sample for gloss measurement in which processed yarns of a sample are arranged in parallel in a width of about 5 cm without any gap is prepared, and a fiber shaft is measured using a gloss meter (PG-1M, manufactured by Nippon Denshoku Industries Co., Ltd.). The measurement was performed by a 60-degree specular reflection method by irradiating light from a direction of 60 degrees with respect to the sample plane.

(2) Residual crimp rate Measured according to JIS-L-1015.

(3) Hot water shrinkage rate Measured according to JIS-L-1013.

(4) Texture evaluation Using the obtained processed yarn, knitting was performed with a 20-gauge single-pitch knitting machine, the knitted fabric was scoured (scouring temperature 70 ° C., scouring time 15 minutes), and then dyed under the following conditions. . Then, evaluation by handling and visual judgment was performed.

Cationic dye: Cathilon blue K-GLH (Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1.0% (based on the weight of the tubular knitted fabric)
Dyeing assistant: Ultra MT-N2 (manufactured by Daiwa Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g / L (for dye bath volume)
Bath ratio: 1:30
Treatment: 100 ° C. × 30 minutes (normal pressure staining)

Polyester multifilament yarn (triangular section 84 dtex 48 filament, 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid (hereinafter referred to as DMS) component copolymerization amount: 2.25 mol%, adipic acid component copolymerization amount: 5.0 mol%, dioxide dioxide Titanium content: 0.05% by weight), with Mitsubishi Heavy Industries LS-6 processing machine, processing speed 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate 3%, 1st heater temperature (false twist temperature) 110 ° C, 2nd Performs false twisting at a heater temperature of 140 ° C., a false twist number of 2560 T / m, a 2nd heater overfeed rate of 10%, a winding speed of 92.4 m / min, a residual crimp rate of 1.5%, and a hot water shrinkage rate. 2. 3% polyester crimped yarn was obtained.

  The crimped yarn obtained had an excellent gloss with a processed yarn glossiness of 9.3. As a result of texture evaluation, there was no particular problem during knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had an excellent rayon-like gloss feeling, a flaming feeling, a soft feeling and a soft feeling. Further, it had good color development characteristic of cationic dyeing.

LS made by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries using polyester multifilament yarn (triangular section 84 dtex 48 filament, DMS component copolymerization amount: 2.25 mol%, adipic acid component copolymerization amount: 5.0 mol%, no inorganic fine particles) -6 Processing machine, processing speed 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate 3%, 1st heater temperature 110 ° C, 2nd heater temperature 140 ° C, false twist number 2560T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate 10%, winding False twisting was performed at a speed of 92.4 m / min to obtain a polyester crimped yarn having a residual crimp rate of 1.4% and a hot water shrinkage rate of 2.6%.

  The obtained crimped yarn had excellent gloss with a processed yarn glossiness of 10.5. As a result of texture evaluation, there was no particular problem during knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had an excellent rayon-like gloss feeling, a flaming feeling, a soft feeling and a soft feeling. Further, it had good color development characteristic of cationic dyeing.

LS made by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries using polyester multifilament yarn (triangular section 190 dtex 48 filament, DMS component copolymerization amount: 2.25 mol%, adipic acid component copolymerization amount: 5.0 mol%, no inorganic fine particles contained) -6 processing machine, processing speed 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate 3%, 1st heater temperature 120 ° C, 2nd heater temperature 150 ° C, false twist number 1470T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate 10%, winding False twisting was performed at a speed of 94.0 m / min to obtain a polyester crimped yarn having a residual crimp rate of 1.0% and a hot water shrinkage rate of 3.6%.

  The obtained crimped yarn had excellent gloss with a processed yarn glossiness of 10.2. As a result of texture evaluation, there was no particular problem during knitting, and the obtained knitted fabric had an excellent rayon-like gloss feeling, a flaming feeling, a soft feeling and a soft feeling. Further, it had good color development characteristic of cationic dyeing.

(Comparative Example 1)
Using a polyester multifilament yarn (round section 84 dtex 72 filament, no DMS component copolymerization, no adipic acid component copolymerization, titanium dioxide content: 0.46% by weight), an LS-6 processing machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Processing speed 100m / min, false twist overfeed rate 2%, 1st heater temperature 215 ° C, false twist number 3100T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate 0% (heater does not heat), take-up speed 95.6m / The yarn was false twisted to obtain a polyester crimped yarn having a residual crimp rate of 54.4% and a hot water shrinkage rate of 16.2%.

  The obtained crimped yarn had a glossiness of a processed yarn of 6.1 and an insufficient glossiness. When the texture evaluation was performed, the obtained knitted fabric had a feeling of softness and softness due to false twist crimp, but was insufficient in terms of glossiness and suppleness. Further, it was hardly dyed with a cationic dye.

(Comparative Example 2)
Using the same polyester multifilament yarn as in Example 1, with a LS-6 processing machine manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, a processing speed of 100 m / min, a false twist overfeed rate of 4%, a first heater temperature of 160 ° C., a second heater temperature of 155 ° C., Polyester crimping with false twisting of 26.8T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate of 12%, winding speed of 92m / min, residual crimp rate of 16.8%, hot water shrinkage rate of 2.2% A processed yarn was obtained.

  The crimped yarn thus obtained had a glossiness of processed yarn of 8.2 and an insufficient gloss. When the texture evaluation was performed, the obtained knitted fabric had a feeling of softness and softness due to false twist crimp, but was insufficient in terms of glossiness and suppleness.

(Comparative Example 3)
LS-6 processed by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries using polyester multifilament yarn (round cross section 84 dtex 24 filament, DMS component: 2.25 mol%, no adipic acid component copolymerization, titanium dioxide content: 0.46 wt%) Machine with a processing speed of 100 m / min, false twist overfeed rate of 2%, 1st heater temperature of 110 ° C., 2nd heater temperature of 140 ° C., false twist number of 2560 T / m, 2nd heater overfeed rate of 10%, winding speed of 92. False twisting was performed at 4 m / min to obtain a polyester crimped yarn having a residual crimp rate of 1.3% and a hot water shrinkage rate of 1.0%.

  Since the obtained crimped yarn does not copolymerize the adipic acid component, dyeing with a normal pressure cationic dye becomes insufficient, and dyeing is performed under a pressure of 120 ° C., which is a normal cationic dyeing condition. As a result, the glossiness of the processed yarn was 6 and the glossiness was insufficient.

Claims (3)

It consists of a polyester multifilament containing a 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as a copolymerization component, the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber constituting the multifilament is a triangular cross section, and the residual crimp rate is 0.5-4. A polyester crimped yarn characterized by 0%, hot water shrinkage of 1.0 to 5.0%, and a processed yarn glossiness of 8.5 or more. A polyester multifilament containing a 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid component and an adipic acid component as a copolymerization component, wherein the cross-sectional shape of a single fiber constituting the multifilament is a triangular cross section, a false twisting temperature of 80 to 130 ℃, false twist number is 15000 × D ^-1/2 ~ 28000 × D ^-1/2 A process for producing a polyester crimped yarn, wherein false twisting is performed at (T / m) (D: fineness (decitex)). A woven or knitted fabric comprising the polyester crimped yarn according to claim 1.