JP5888866B2 - Dyeing and knitting fabric - Google Patents
Dyeing and knitting fabric Download PDFInfo
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- JP5888866B2 JP5888866B2 JP2011069360A JP2011069360A JP5888866B2 JP 5888866 B2 JP5888866 B2 JP 5888866B2 JP 2011069360 A JP2011069360 A JP 2011069360A JP 2011069360 A JP2011069360 A JP 2011069360A JP 5888866 B2 JP5888866 B2 JP 5888866B2
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本発明は、同浴染めによる同色性に優れた染色交編編地に関する。 The present invention relates to a dyed and knitted knitted fabric excellent in the same color by bath dyeing.
従来より、異種繊維糸の組み合わせからなる交織或いは交編の布帛を同色に染色するには、それぞれの繊維に対して染色可能な染料を用いて、同浴で多段で染色する或いは別浴でそれぞれの繊維を染色する、例えばポリエステル繊維糸とアクリル繊維糸の組み合わせをポリエステル繊維は分散染料で、アクリル繊維はカチオン染料でそれぞれ染色する（特許文献１）等の方法が採られている。 Conventionally, in order to dye an union or knitting fabric made of a combination of different types of fiber yarns to the same color, dye each dyed fiber in multiple stages in the same bath or in separate baths. For example, a combination of a polyester fiber yarn and an acrylic fiber yarn is dyed with a disperse dye and an acrylic fiber is dyed with a cationic dye (Patent Document 1).
また、異種繊維でありながら同種染料で染色可能な繊維の組み合わせを同浴で一段で染色する、例えばポリアミド繊維糸と木綿等のセルロース繊維糸との組み合わせを反応染料で染色する或いはカチオン染料可染型に改質のポリエステル繊維糸とアクリル繊維糸の組み合わせをカチオン染料で染色する（特許文献２）等の方法が知られている。 In addition, a combination of fibers that are dissimilar fibers but that can be dyed with the same kind of dye is dyed in one step in the same bath, for example, a combination of polyamide fiber yarn and cellulose fiber yarn such as cotton is dyed with reactive dye or dyeable with cationic dye There are known methods such as dyeing a combination of a modified polyester fiber yarn and an acrylic fiber yarn with a cationic dye (Patent Document 2).
しかしながら、これらの従来方法のうち、多段或いは別浴による方法では、同色にするための色目合わせに困難を来たし、また同浴一段による方法でも満足しうる同色が得られていないのが現状である。 However, among these conventional methods, the method using multiple stages or separate baths has caused difficulty in color matching for the same color, and the same color that is satisfactory even with the method using one stage of the same bath has not been obtained. .
本発明は、カチオン染料可染型に改質のポリエステル繊維糸とアクリル繊維糸の組み合わせの交編編地をカチオン染料で満足しうる同色に染色するためには、カチオン染料可染型のポリエステル繊維の染色性をアクリル繊維の染色性に近いものとし、また特定のカチオン染料を用いることにより達成しうることを見出したことによるものである。本発明の目的は、ポリエステル繊維糸とアクリル繊維糸の組み合わせの交編編地でありながら、同浴染めによる同色性に優れた染色交編編地を提供することにある。 In order to dye a knitted knitted fabric of a combination of a polyester fiber yarn modified with a cationic dyeable type and an acrylic fiber yarn to the same color that can be satisfied with the cationic dye, the present invention provides a polyester fiber dyeable with a cationic dye. This is because it has been found that the dyeing property can be achieved by using a specific cationic dye. An object of the present invention is to provide a dyed and knitted knitted fabric excellent in the same color by bath dyeing while being a knitted knitted fabric of a combination of polyester fiber yarn and acrylic fiber yarn.
本発明の要旨は、エチレンテレフタレートを主たる構成単位とし、ジカルボン酸成分として５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２〜２．５モル％およびアジピン酸３〜７モル％を含む共重合ポリエステルからなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸と、アクリロニトリルを９０質量％以上含むアクリロニトリル系重合体からなるアクリル短繊維紡績糸とを用いて構成した交編編地であって、主として表面側に前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸、裏面側に前記アクリル短繊維紡績糸が配された交編編地を、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料にて９０〜１１０℃の同浴で染色してなる染色交編編地にある。
The gist of the present invention is a polyester multifilament yarn comprising a copolymerized polyester comprising ethylene terephthalate as a main constituent unit and containing 2 to 2.5 mol% of 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 3 to 7 mol% of adipic acid as a dicarboxylic acid component. And a knitted knitted fabric made of an acrylic short fiber spun yarn made of an acrylonitrile-based polymer containing 90% by mass or more of acrylonitrile , the polyester multifilament yarn mainly on the front side and the acrylic short fiber on the back side. The knitted knitted fabric in which the fiber spun yarn is arranged is in a dyed knitted knitted fabric formed by dyeing with a cationic dye in which the cationic group is not blocked in the same bath at 90 to 110 ° C.
本発明によれば、アクリル繊維のカチオン染料可染性に近似のカチオン染料可染性のポリエステル繊維糸とアクリル繊維糸との交編編地を特定のカチオン染料での同浴染めにより同色性に優れた染色交編編地を提供することができる。 According to the present invention, a knitted knitted fabric of an acrylic fiber yarn and a cationic dye-dyeable polyester fiber yarn similar to the cationic dye dyeability of an acrylic fiber is made the same color by the same bath dyeing with a specific cationic dye. An excellent dyed / knitted / knitted fabric can be provided.
以下、本発明の実施の形態について、詳細に説明する。
〈共重合ポリエステル〉
本発明において、交編編地の構成糸であるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を構成する共重合ポリエステルは、エチレンテレフタレートを主たる構成単位とし、ジカルボン酸成分として５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を２〜２．５モル％およびアジピン酸を３〜７モル％含むことが必要である。
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
<Copolyester>
In the present invention, the copolymer polyester constituting the polyester multifilament yarn which is a constituent yarn of the knitted knitted fabric has ethylene terephthalate as a main constituent unit and 2-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid as a dicarboxylic acid component in an amount of 2 to 2.5 mol. % And 3-7 mol% adipic acid.
５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸を２〜２．５モル％とすることにより、カチオン染料の染着座席が導入されカチオン染料特有の鮮明性を奏するに足る染着性を有するものとなり、また５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸とともにアジピン酸を３〜７モル％とすることにより、９０〜１１０℃での染色を可能とし、また実用上何等支障のない繊維強度を保持する。 By setting 2-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 2 to 2.5 mol%, a dye dye seat is introduced, and the dye has a dyeing property sufficient to exhibit the sharpness characteristic of the cationic dye. By making 3 to 7 mol% of adipic acid together with sulfoisophthalic acid, dyeing at 90 to 110 ° C. is possible, and fiber strength that does not impede practically is maintained.
〈ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸〉
共重合ポリエステルからなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、ポリエチレンテレフタレートからマルチフィラメント糸を製造するのと同様の方法によって得られ、マルチフィラメント糸を得るにあたっての製糸方法、糸繊度等には特に限定はない。
<Polyester multifilament yarn>
Polyester multifilament yarn made of copolymerized polyester is obtained by the same method as that for producing multifilament yarn from polyethylene terephthalate, and there are no particular limitations on the yarn production method, yarn fineness, etc. for obtaining the multifilament yarn.
〈ポリエステル捲縮加工糸〉
本発明の交編編地において、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸は、捲縮加工糸であることが好ましく、捲縮加工糸であることにより編地に膨らみ感が付与される。捲縮加工糸は、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸を仮撚加工することにより得られ、その加工条件については特に限定されないが、例えば、仮撚温度１００〜１８０℃、仮撚数１５０００×Ｄ−１／２〜３５０００×Ｄ−１／２（ｔ／ｍ）、仮撚オーバーフィード率１〜３％の条件で仮撚加工する。なお、仮撚係数の糸条の繊度と仮撚数の関係は、次式で示される。
仮撚係数＝仮撚数（ｔ／ｍ）×（糸条の繊度（ｄｔｅｘ）÷１０×９）１／２
<Polyester crimped yarn>
In the knitted knitted fabric of the present invention, the polyester multifilament yarn is preferably a crimped yarn, and the knitted fabric is given a feeling of swelling by being a crimped yarn. The crimped yarn is obtained by false twisting a polyester multifilament yarn, and the processing conditions are not particularly limited. For example, the false twist temperature is 100 to 180 ° C., and the false twist number is 15000 × D −1/2. False twisting is performed under the conditions of ˜35000 × D −1/2 (t / m) and false twist overfeed rate of 1 to 3%. In addition, the relationship between the fineness of the false twist coefficient yarn and the number of false twists is expressed by the following equation.
False twisting coefficient = number of false twists (t / m) × (fineness of yarn (dtex) ÷ 10 × 9) 1/2
〈アクリロニトリル系重合体〉
本発明において、交編編地の構成糸であるアクリル短繊維紡績糸を構成するアクリロニトリル系重合体は、アクリロニトリルを９０質量％以上含む重合体であり、アクリル繊維本来の特性を損なわない限り、アクリロニトリルと共重合可能なモノマーを含む共重合体であってもよい。例えばかかるモノマーとして、アクリル酸メチル、アクリル酸エチル、アクリル酸ｎ−ブチル、アクリル酸２−ヒドロキシエチル等のアクリル酸エステル類、メタアクリル酸エチル、メタアクリル酸メチル、メタアクリル酸ｎ−ブチル、メタアクリル酸２−ヒドロキシエチル等のメタアクリル酸エステル類、アクリル酸、メタアクリル酸、マレイン酸、イタコン酸、アクリルアミド、スチレン、酢酸ビニル、塩化ビニル、塩化ビニリデン、臭化ビニル、臭化ビニリデン、フッ化ビニル、フッ化ビニリデン等が挙げられる。
<Acrylonitrile polymer>
In the present invention, the acrylonitrile polymer constituting the acrylic short fiber spun yarn which is the constituent yarn of the knitted knitted fabric is a polymer containing 90% by mass or more of acrylonitrile, so long as the original properties of the acrylic fiber are not impaired. It may be a copolymer containing a monomer copolymerizable with the. Examples of such monomers include acrylic acid esters such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, n-butyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, ethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, meta Methacrylic acid esters such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, acrylamide, styrene, vinyl acetate, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, vinyl bromide, vinylidene bromide, fluoride Examples thereof include vinyl and vinylidene fluoride.
〈アクリル短繊維紡績糸〉
アクリロニトリル系重合体からなるアクリル短繊維紡績糸は、特にその製造方法には限定はなく、アクリロニトリル系重合体を湿式紡糸等により紡糸して得られた繊維束を所定長バリアブル長にカットした短繊維を紡績して得られ、その紡績糸を得るにあたっての紡績方法、糸番手等には特に限定はない。
<Acrylic short fiber spun yarn>
An acrylic short fiber spun yarn made of an acrylonitrile polymer is not particularly limited in its production method, and a short fiber obtained by cutting a fiber bundle obtained by spinning an acrylonitrile polymer by wet spinning or the like into a predetermined variable length. There are no particular limitations on the spinning method, yarn count, etc. for obtaining the spun yarn.
（交編編地）
本発明における交編編地は、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２〜２．５モル％およびアジピン酸３〜７モル％を構成重合体に含むポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸とアクリリル短繊維紡績糸とが、主として表面側にポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸、裏面側にアクリル短繊維紡績糸が配されて、交編されている限り、その編組織には特に限定はなく、経編、丸編、横編、或いはこれらの変化組織等であってもよく、編地の使用目的に応じた風合い、意匠性を考慮して編組織、さらには編密度等が設定される。
(Co-knitting fabric)
Mixed knitting knitted fabric in the present invention, a polyester multifilament yarn and acrylyl short fibers spun yarn comprising 2 to 2.5 mol% 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 3 to 7 mol% of adipic acid structure polymer, mainly As long as the polyester multifilament yarn is arranged on the front side and the acrylic short fiber spun yarn is arranged on the back side and knitted, the knitting structure is not particularly limited, and warp knitting, circular knitting, flat knitting, or these It may be a changed structure or the like, and the knitting structure, the knitting density, and the like are set in consideration of the texture and design properties according to the purpose of use of the knitted fabric.
〈カチオン染料〉
本発明において、交編編地は、その染色物が同色性に優れるためには、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料にて染色されている必要がある。カチオン染料には、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料とカチオン基が封鎖されているカチオン染料、いわゆる分散型カチオン染料があり、より優れた同色性を得るうえでは、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料を用いることが必要である。かかるカチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料として、種々のカチオン染料のなかから選定して用いられ、例えば日成化成社製Ｎｉｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｂｌｕｅ ＦＣＲ、保土谷化学工業社製Ａｉｚｅｎ Ｃａｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｒｅｄ ＢＬＨ、Ａｉｚｅｎ Ｃａｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｙｅｌｌｏｗ ７ＧＬＨ、Ａｉｚｅｎ Ｃａｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｙｅｌｌｏｗ ＳＧＬＨ等が挙げられる。
<Cationic dye>
In the present invention, the knitted knitted fabric needs to be dyed with a cationic dye in which the cationic group is not blocked in order that the dyed product is excellent in the same color. Cationic dyes include cationic dyes whose cationic groups are not blocked and cationic dyes whose cationic groups are blocked, so-called dispersed cationic dyes. In order to obtain better color matching, the cationic groups are not blocked. It is necessary to use a cationic dye. Such cationic dyes in which the cationic group is not blocked are selected from various cationic dyes and used, for example, Nichinon Blue FCR manufactured by Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd. , Aizen Cachilon Yellow SGLH and the like.
〈染色〉
本発明において、染色交編編地は、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２〜２．５モル％およびアジピン酸３〜７モル％を構成重合体に含むポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸とアクリル短繊維紡績糸との交編編地を、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料にて９０〜１１０℃の同浴で染色してなるものである。本発明においては、多段或いは別浴での染色なしに、同浴一段で前記ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸とアクリル短繊維紡績糸を染色したことにより、煩雑な色目合わせもなく、また高温染色でないことにより、風合いの低下もない染色交編編地となしうる。
<staining>
In the present invention, the dyed knitted knitted fabric is composed of a polyester multifilament yarn containing 2-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid 2-2.5 mol% and adipic acid 3-7 mol% in a constituent polymer and an acrylic short fiber spun yarn. The knitted knitted fabric is dyed with a cationic dye whose cationic group is not blocked in the same bath at 90 to 110 ° C. In the present invention, by dyeing the polyester multifilament yarn and the acrylic short fiber spun yarn in one step in the same bath without dyeing in multiple stages or separate baths, there is no complicated color matching and high temperature dyeing, It can be a dyed and knitted knitted fabric with no decrease in texture.
〈ポリウレタン弾性糸の併用〉
本発明においては、染色交編編地に良好な伸縮性を付与するうえで、交編編地の構成の際に、単独のアクリル短繊維紡績糸に代えて、アクリル短繊維紡績糸と２〜３倍に引き伸ばされたポリウレタン弾性糸との引揃え糸を用いることが好ましい。アクリル短繊維紡績糸と引き伸ばされたポリウレタン弾性糸との引揃え糸を用いることにより、染色交編編地に良好な伸縮性が付与される。アクリル短繊維紡績糸とともに配されたポリウレタン弾性糸は、伸長性が極めて高く、小さな力で伸長するため、本発明の染色交編編地をスポーツ衣料等にしたときに身体の動きに違和感なく追従し、優れたボディフィット性を与える。
<Combined use of polyurethane elastic yarn>
In the present invention, in order to impart good stretchability to the dyed knitted knitted fabric, in the configuration of the knitted knitted fabric, instead of a single acrylic short fiber spun yarn, acrylic short fiber spun yarn and 2 to 2 It is preferable to use an aligned yarn with a polyurethane elastic yarn stretched three times. By using an aligned yarn of an acrylic short fiber spun yarn and a stretched polyurethane elastic yarn, good stretchability is imparted to the dyed knitted knitted fabric. Polyurethane elastic yarns arranged with acrylic staple fiber spun yarns are extremely stretchable and stretch with a small force. Therefore, when the dyed knitted and knitted fabric of the present invention is used as sports clothing, it follows the movement of the body without any discomfort. And gives excellent body fit.
〈再生セルロース繊維の併用〉
本発明においては、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２〜２．５モル％およびアジピン酸３〜７モル％を構成重合体に含むポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸と、アクリル短繊維紡績糸と、再生セルロース繊維のマルチフィラメント糸或いは紡績糸とを用いて構成した交編編地を、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料にて９０〜１１０℃の同浴で染色して良好な吸湿性を付与した染色交偏編地とすることができる。再生セルロース繊維としては、レーヨン、キュプラ等が挙げられ、繊維の表面形状、艶、繊度等については特に限定はなく交偏編地応じて選定される。
<Combination of regenerated cellulose fibers>
In the present invention, a polyester multifilament yarn comprising 2-2.5 mol% 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 3-7 mol% adipic acid in a constituent polymer, an acrylic short fiber spun yarn, and a multi-layer of regenerated cellulose fiber Dyeing and cross-knitting that gives good hygroscopicity by dyeing a knitted knitted fabric composed of filament yarn or spun yarn with a cationic dye in which cationic groups are not blocked in the same bath at 90 to 110 ° C. It can be the ground. Examples of the regenerated cellulose fiber include rayon and cupra, and the surface shape, gloss, fineness and the like of the fiber are not particularly limited and are selected according to the cross-knit fabric.
以下、本発明を実施例により具体的に説明する。なお、実施例における染色交編編地の同色性の評価は、次の方法に拠った。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples. The evaluation of the same color of the dyed knitted knitted fabric in the examples was based on the following method.
〈同色値Ａの測定〉
染色交偏編地からポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸とアクリル短繊維紡績糸をそれぞれ抜き取り、たて５０ｍｍ、よこ２００ｍｍ、厚さ３ｍｍの紙製の板に、それぞれの糸を板が透けないようになるまで巻いて糸巻きサンプルを作成した。
コニカミノルタセンシング社製分光測色計「ＣＭ−３６００ｄ」と日清紡メカトロニクス社製カラーマッチングシミュレーションソフト「Ｈｙｐｅｒ調色専科Ｗｉｎ９５システム」とを組み合わせたシステムを用い、ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の糸巻きサンプルの測色値Ｅａｂを１回測定し、この測色値をスタンダードとした。各々の糸巻きサンプルについて、スタンダードに対する差ΔＥａｂを５回測定し、その相加平均値を求めた。ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸の相加平均値とアクリル短繊維紡績糸の相加平均値の差を求め、小数点以下２桁目を四捨五入して同色値Ａとした。
<Measurement of same color value A>
Pull out the polyester multifilament yarn and acrylic short fiber spun yarn from the dyed and cross-knitted fabric, and wrap each yarn on a paper plate of 50 mm, width of 200 mm, and thickness of 3 mm until the plate is not transparent. A spool sample was made.
Using a system that combines Konica Minolta Sensing's spectrophotometer "CM-3600d" and Nisshinbo Mechatronics' color matching simulation software "Hyper Toning Senka Win95 System", the colorimetric value of a wound sample of polyester multifilament yarn Eab was measured once and this colorimetric value was used as a standard. For each wound sample, the difference ΔEab with respect to the standard was measured five times, and the arithmetic average value was obtained. The difference between the arithmetic average value of the polyester multifilament yarn and the arithmetic average value of the acrylic short fiber spun yarn was determined, and the second decimal place was rounded off to obtain the same color value A.
〈使用構成糸〉
交偏編地の編成に使用する糸は、下記のとおり。
ポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸（ＰＥＴ糸１）：三菱レイヨン・テキスタイル社製、５−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸２．３モル％、アジピン酸５モル％共重合ポリエチレンテレフタレートルからなるポリエステルマルチフィラメント糸（１１０ｄｔｅｘ／４８ｆ、単糸三角断面）ポリエステル捲縮加工糸（ＰＥＴ糸２）：ＰＥＴ糸１の仮撚加工糸（捲縮率（ＪＩＳ Ｌ１０１５測定法に準拠）２４．６％）
アクリル短繊維紡績糸（ＡＮ糸１）：三菱レイヨン社製、アクリロニトリル９４質量％含有アクリロニトリル系重合体からなるアクリル繊維紡績糸（単繊維繊度１ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ、糸番手１／６４）
アクリル短繊維紡績糸（ＡＮ糸２）：三菱レイヨン社製、アクリロニトリル９４質量％含有アクリロニトリル系重合体からなるアクリル繊維紡績糸（単繊維繊度０．８ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ、糸番手１／８０）
ポリウレタン弾性糸（ＰＵ糸）：日清紡社製、ポリウレタン弾性糸（３３ｄｔｅｘ）
キュプラ短繊維紡績糸（ＣＵ糸）：旭化成せんい社製、キュプラ繊維紡績糸（糸番手６０／１）
<Used yarn>
The yarns used for knitting the cross knitted fabric are as follows.
Polyester multifilament yarn (PET yarn 1): manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Textile Co., Ltd., polyester multifilament yarn (110 dtex / 48f, consisting of 2.3 mol% 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid and 5 mol% adipic acid copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate Single yarn triangular cross section) Polyester crimped yarn (PET yarn 2): False twisted yarn of PET yarn 1 (crimp rate (conforming to JIS L1015 measurement method) 24.6%)
Acrylic short fiber spun yarn (AN yarn 1): manufactured by Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., acrylic fiber spun yarn made of acrylonitrile-based polymer containing 94% by mass of acrylonitrile (single fiber fineness 1 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, yarn count 1/64)
Acrylic short fiber spun yarn (AN yarn 2): Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd., acrylic fiber spun yarn made of acrylonitrile polymer containing 94% by mass of acrylonitrile (single fiber fineness 0.8 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, yarn count 1/80)
Polyurethane elastic yarn (PU yarn): manufactured by Nisshinbo Co., Ltd., polyurethane elastic yarn (33 dtex)
Cupra staple fiber spun yarn (CU yarn): manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers, cupra fiber spun yarn (yarn count 60/1)
（実施例１）
ＰＥＴ糸１を用い、仮撚加工機（三菱重工業社製ＬＳ−６）にて、加工速度１１２ｍ／分、仮撚オーバーフィード率２％、１ｓｔヒーター温度（仮撚温度）１７５℃、２ｎｄヒーター温度１７０℃、仮撚数２９５０ｔ／ｍ（仮撚係数２．９４×１０４）、２ｎｄヒーター内オーバーフィード率１５％、巻取りオーバーフィード率７．３％の条件で仮撚加工を行い、前記のＰＥＴ糸２を作製した。
ＰＥＴ糸２、ＡＮ糸１、ＰＵ糸を用い、ＰＥＴ糸２を図１に示すリバーシブル編組織の給糸Ｎｏ．２、Ｎｏ．４、Ｎｏ．６に配し、ＡＮ糸１と２．５倍に引き伸ばしたＰＵ糸との引き揃え糸を同編組織のＮｏ．１、Ｎｏ．３、Ｎｏ．５に配し、丸編機（福原社製、２８Ｇ、３４インチ）にてバーシブル編地を編成した。得られた編地の生機は、主として表面側にＰＥＴ糸２、裏面側にＡＮ糸１とＰＵ糸が配され、ＰＥＴ糸２の混率が５８％（質量、以下同じ）、ＡＮ糸１の混率が３４％、ＰＵ糸の混率が８％であった。この生機を、常法により精錬後、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料（日成化成社製、Ｎｉｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｂｌｕｅ ＦＣＲ）を用い、無緊張下で染色温度１００℃の常圧で３０分間同浴一段でブルーに染色した。染色後裏面側に針布での起毛処理を施し、仕上げ巾１５０ｃｍ、４５ウエール／インチ、７０コース／インチ、目付２８３ｇ／ｍ２に仕上げ、染色交編編地を作製した。得られた染色交編編地は、鮮明な発色性を示すとともに、同色値Ａが０．８７で、表面側に配されたＰＥＴ糸２で形成された面と裏面側に顕れたＡＮ糸１で形成された面との同色性に優れたものであった。また、得られた染色交編編地は、表面側がＰＥＴ糸２の捲縮に基づくソフトな風合いで滑り性に優れ、膨らみ感があり、裏面側が裏面に顕れたＡＮ糸１に基づく膨らみ感、軽量感を有するものであり、また、染色が同浴一段での工程であるため経済性に優れ、染色物もＰＵ糸への汚染も少なく染色堅牢度に優れたものであった。
Example 1
Using PET yarn 1, with false twisting machine (LS-6 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.), processing speed 112m / min, false twist overfeed rate 2%, 1st heater temperature (false twist temperature) 175 ° C, 2nd heater temperature False twisting is performed under the conditions of 170 ° C., false twist number 2950 t / m (false twist coefficient 2.94 × 10 4 ), 2nd heater overfeed rate 15%, winding overfeed rate 7.3%, PET yarn 2 was produced.
PET yarn 2, AN yarn 1, and PU yarn were used, and PET yarn 2 was supplied with a reversible knitting structure yarn No. 1 shown in FIG. 2, no. 4, no. No. 6 in the same knitting structure is used as an aligned yarn of AN yarn 1 and PU yarn stretched 2.5 times. 1, no. 3, no. The knitted fabric was knitted with a circular knitting machine (Fukuhara, 28G, 34 inches). The raw fabric of the knitted fabric obtained is mainly composed of PET yarn 2 on the front side and AN yarn 1 and PU yarn on the back side. The mixing rate of PET yarn 2 is 58% (mass, the same applies hereinafter), and the mixing rate of AN yarn 1 Was 34%, and the PU yarn mixing ratio was 8%. This raw machine is refined by a conventional method and then a cationic dye (Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd., Nichilon Blue FCR) whose cationic group is not capped is used for 30 minutes under normal pressure at a dyeing temperature of 100 ° C. And stained blue. After dyeing, the back side was brushed with a needle cloth and finished to a finished width of 150 cm, 45 wale / inch, 70 course / inch, and a basis weight of 283 g / m 2 to prepare a dyed knit fabric. The obtained dyed and knitted knitted fabric has a clear color developability, and has the same color value A of 0.87, and the AN yarn 1 revealed on the surface and the back surface formed of the PET yarn 2 arranged on the front surface side. It was excellent in the same color property as the surface formed by. Further, the obtained dyed knitted knitted fabric has a soft texture based on the crimp of the PET yarn 2 and excellent slipperiness, and has a feeling of swelling, and a feeling of swelling based on the AN yarn 1 whose back side appears on the back surface, It has a light feeling, and is excellent in economic efficiency because dyeing is a one-step process in the same bath, and it has excellent dyeing fastness with little dyeing and contamination of PU yarn.
（比較例１）
実施例１において、染色の際に用いたカチオン染料を、カチオン基が封鎖されている分散型カチオン染料（日本化薬社製、Ｋａｙａｃｒｙｌ Ｂｌｕｅ ＧＳＬ−ＥＤ）に代えた以外は、実施例１と同様にしてバーシブル編組織の染色交編編地を作製した。得られた染色交編編地は、鮮明な発色性を示すとともに、表面側がＰＥＴ糸２の捲縮に基づくソフトな風合いで滑り性に優れ、膨らみ感があり、裏面側が裏面に顕れたＡＮ糸１に基づく膨らみ感、軽量感を有するものであったが、同色値Ａが１．４４であり、表面側の面と裏面側の面との間に色差があり、表面に色差杢を生じ、高級感に劣るものであった。
(Comparative Example 1)
In Example 1, the same procedure as in Example 1 was performed except that the cationic dye used in the dyeing was replaced with a dispersed cationic dye having a cationic group blocked (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd., Kayacryl Blue GSL-ED). In this way, a dyed / knitted / knitted fabric of a versatile knitted fabric was produced. The obtained dyed and knitted knitted fabric has a clear color developability, has a soft texture based on the crimping of the PET yarn 2 on the surface side, is excellent in slipperiness, has a feeling of swelling, and an AN yarn with the back side revealed on the back side 1 has a swell feeling and a light feeling based on 1, but the same color value A is 1.44, there is a color difference between the surface side surface and the back side surface, causing a color difference wrinkle on the surface, It was inferior to luxury.
（比較例２）
実施例１において、染色の際に用いたカチオン染料を、分散染料（紀和化学社製、Ｋｉｗａｌｏｎ Ｂｌｕｅ ３ＲＦ）に代えた以外は、実施例１と同様にしてバーシブル編組織の染色交編編地を作製した。得られた染色交編編地は、表面側がＰＥＴ糸２の捲縮に基づくソフトな風合いで滑り性に優れ、膨らみ感があり、裏面側が裏面に顕れたＡＮ糸１に基づく膨らみ感、軽量感を有するものであったが、発色性に劣り、表面側の面と裏面側の面との間に大きな色差があり、また中濃色系での染色堅牢度に劣るものであった。
(Comparative Example 2)
In Example 1, except that the cationic dye used for dyeing was replaced with a disperse dye (Kiwalon Blue 3RF, manufactured by Kiwa Chemical Co., Ltd.) Produced. The obtained dyed and knitted knitted fabric has a soft texture based on the crimping of the PET yarn 2 on the front side and excellent slipperiness, and has a feeling of swelling, and a feeling of swelling and lightness based on the AN yarn 1 that appears on the back side. However, the color developability was inferior, there was a large color difference between the surface on the front side and the surface on the back side, and the fastness to dyeing in the medium dark color system was inferior.
（比較例３）
実施例１において、染色の際に、分散染料（紀和化学社製、Ｋｉｗａｌｏｎ Ｂｌｕｅ ３ＲＦ）とカチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料（日成化成社製、Ｎｉｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｂｌｕｅ ＦＣＲ）との２種の染料を用い、同浴一段で染色した以外は、実施例１と同様にしてバーシブル編組織の染色交編編地を作製した。得られた染色交編編地は、表面側がＰＥＴ糸２の捲縮に基づくソフトな風合いで滑り性に優れ、膨らみ感があり、裏面側が裏面に顕れたＡＮ糸１に基づく膨らみ感、軽量感を有するものであったが、表面側が主として分散染料で染色されているため発色性に劣り、表面側の面と裏面側の面との間に色差があり、表面に色差杢を生じたものであった。
(Comparative Example 3)
In Example 1, at the time of dyeing, two kinds of dyes, a disperse dye (Kiwa Chemical Blue, Kiwalon Blue 3RF) and a cationic dye whose cationic group is not blocked (Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd., Nicholon Blue FCR) were used. A dyed knitted fabric with a versatile knitted fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the dyeing was performed in the same bath. The obtained dyed and knitted knitted fabric has a soft texture based on the crimping of the PET yarn 2 on the front side and excellent slipperiness, and has a feeling of swelling, and a feeling of swelling and lightness based on the AN yarn 1 that appears on the back side. However, since the surface side is mainly dyed with disperse dyes, color development is inferior, there is a color difference between the surface side surface and the back side surface, and color difference wrinkles are generated on the surface. there were.
（比較例４）
比較例２において、分散染料を用いた染色の際に、温度１２０℃の高圧染色とした以外は、実施例１と同様にしてバーシブル編組織の染色交編編地を作製した。得られた染色交編編地は、裏面側が裏面に顕れたＡＮ糸１が染色温度の影響により風合いが硬化し、膨らみ感に劣るものであり、また表面側の面と裏面側の面との間に大きな色差があり、高級感に劣るものであった。
(Comparative Example 4)
In Comparative Example 2, a dyed / knitted knitted fabric of a versatile knitted structure was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 except that high-pressure dyeing at a temperature of 120 ° C. was used for dyeing with a disperse dye. In the obtained dyed knitted knitted fabric, the AN yarn 1 whose back side is revealed on the back side is inferior in feeling of swelling because the texture is hardened due to the effect of the dyeing temperature, and the surface side surface and the back side surface are inferior. There was a large color difference between them, and it was inferior in luxury.
（実施例２）
ＰＥＴ糸１、ＡＮ糸２を用い、ＰＥＴ糸１を図２に示すモックロディ編組織の給糸Ｎｏ．１、Ｎｏ．３、Ｎｏ．４、Ｎｏ．６に配し、ＡＮ糸２を同編組織のＮｏ．２、Ｎｏ．５に配し、丸編機（福原社製、２８Ｇ、３０インチ）にて交編編地を編成した。得られた編地の生機は、主として表面側にＰＥＴ糸１、裏面側にＡＮ糸２が配され、ＰＥＴ糸１の混率が６９％、ＡＮ糸２の混率が３１％であった。この生機を、常法により精錬後、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料（日成化成社製、Ｎｉｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｂｌｕｅ ＦＣＲ）を用い、染色温度１００℃の常圧で３０分間同浴一段でブルーに染色し、その後仕上げ巾１４０ｃｍ、４６ウエール／インチ、６２コース／インチ、目付２２６ｇ／ｍ２に仕上げ、染色交編編地を作製した。得られた染色交編編地は、鮮明な発色性を示すとともに、同色値Ａが０．８７で、表面側に配されたＰＥＴ糸１で形成された面と裏面側に顕れたＡＮ糸１で形成された面との同色性に優れたものであった。また、得られた染色交編編地は、表面側がＰＥＴ糸１に基づくソフトな風合いで滑り性に優れ、裏面側が裏面に顕れたＡＮ糸２に基づく膨らみ感、軽量感を有するものであった。
(Example 2)
The PET yarn 1 and AN yarn 2 were used, and the PET yarn 1 was supplied with a mock-rod knitting structure No. 2 shown in FIG. 1, no. 3, no. 4, no. 6 and the AN yarn 2 2, no. The knitted knitted fabric was knitted with a circular knitting machine (28G, 30 inches, manufactured by Fukuhara). The raw fabric of the obtained knitted fabric was mainly arranged with PET yarn 1 on the front side and AN yarn 2 on the back side. The mixing rate of PET yarn 1 was 69% and the mixing rate of AN yarn 2 was 31%. This raw machine is refined by a conventional method, and then dyed blue in the same bath for 30 minutes at a normal temperature of 100 ° C. using a cationic dye (Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd., manufactured by Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd.) with a cationic group not blocked. Thereafter, a finished width of 140 cm, 46 wales / inch, 62 courses / inch, and a basis weight of 226 g / m 2 were finished to prepare a dyed and knitted knitted fabric. The obtained dyed and knitted knitted fabric has a clear color developability, and has the same color value A of 0.87, and the AN yarn 1 revealed on the surface and the back surface formed of the PET yarn 1 arranged on the front surface side. It was excellent in the same color property as the surface formed by. Further, the obtained dyed knitted knitted fabric had a soft texture based on the PET yarn 1 and excellent slipperiness, and had a feeling of swelling and lightness based on the AN yarn 2 which appeared on the back side. .
（実施例３）
ＰＥＴ糸１、ＡＮ糸２、ＣＵ糸を用い、ＰＥＴ糸１を図２に示すモックロディ編組織の給糸Ｎｏ．１、Ｎｏ．３、Ｎｏ．４、Ｎｏ．６に配し、ＡＮ糸２を同編組織のＮｏ．２に配し、ＣＵ糸を同編組織のＮｏ．５に配し、丸編機（福原社製、２８Ｇ、３０インチ）にて交編編地を編成した。得られた編地の生機は、主として表面側にＰＥＴ糸１、裏面側にＡＮ糸２とＣＵ糸が配され、ＰＥＴ糸１の混率が７４％、ＡＮ糸２の混率が１５％、ＣＵ糸の混率が１１％であった。この生機を、常法により精錬後、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料（日成化成社製、Ｎｉｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｂｌｕｅ ＦＣＲ）を用い、染色温度１００℃の常圧で３０分間同浴一段でブルーに染色し、さらに反応性染料（日本化薬社製、Ｋａｙａｃｉｏｎ Ｅ）を用い、温度６０℃で６０分間別浴二段でブルーに染色し、その後仕上げ巾１４０ｃｍ、４０ウエール／インチ、３４コース／インチ、目付１５０ｇ／ｍ２に仕上げ、染色交編編地を作製した。得られた染色交編編地は、鮮明な発色性を示すとともに、同色値Ａが０．８７で、表面側に配されたＰＥＴ糸１で形成された面と裏面側に顕れたＡＮ糸１で形成された面との同色性に優れたものであった。また、得られた染色交編編地は、表面側がＰＥＴ糸１に基づくソフトな風合いで滑り性に優れ、裏面側が裏面に顕れたＡＮ糸２に基づく膨らみ感、軽量感およびＣＵ糸に基づく吸湿性を有するものであった。
(Example 3)
PET yarn 1, AN yarn 2, and CU yarn were used. 1, no. 3, no. 4, no. 6 and the AN yarn 2 2 and CU yarn No. of the same knitting structure. The knitted knitted fabric was knitted with a circular knitting machine (28G, 30 inches, manufactured by Fukuhara). The resulting knitted fabric machine is mainly composed of PET yarn 1 on the front side, AN yarn 2 and CU yarn on the back side, PET yarn 1 mixing ratio of 74%, AN yarn 2 mixing ratio of 15%, CU yarn The mixture ratio was 11%. This raw machine is refined by a conventional method, and then dyed blue in the same bath for 30 minutes at a normal temperature of 100 ° C. using a cationic dye (Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd., manufactured by Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd.) with a cationic group not blocked. Furthermore, using a reactive dye (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd., Kaycation E), dyed blue at 60 ° C. for 60 minutes in two separate baths, and then finished width 140 cm, 40 wale / inch, 34 course / inch, The fabric was finished with a basis weight of 150 g / m 2 to prepare a dyed knitted knitted fabric. The obtained dyed and knitted knitted fabric has a clear color developability, and has the same color value A of 0.87, and the AN yarn 1 revealed on the surface and the back surface formed of the PET yarn 1 arranged on the front surface side. It was excellent in the same color property as the surface formed by. Further, the obtained dyed / knitted knitted fabric has a soft texture based on the PET yarn 1 on the front side and excellent slipperiness, and a feeling of swelling, lightness and moisture absorption based on the AN yarn 2 with the back side revealed on the back side. It had the property.
（実施例４）
実施例２において、編組織を図３に示すリバーシブル天竺編組織に代えた以外は、実施例２と同様にして交編編地を編成した。得られた編地の生機は、主として表面側にＰＥＴ糸１、裏面側にＡＮ糸２が配され、ＰＥＴ糸１の混率が６９％、ＡＮ糸２の混率が３１％であった。この生機を、常法により精錬後、カチオン基が封鎖されていないカチオン染料（日成化成社製、Ｎｉｃｈｉｌｏｎ Ｂｌｕｅ ＦＣＲ）を用い、染色温度１００℃の常圧で３０分間同浴一段でブルーに染色し、その後仕上げ巾１４０ｃｍ、３２ウエール／インチ、４６コース／インチ、目付１８２ｇ／ｍ２に仕上げ、染色交編編地を作製した。得られた染色交編編地は、鮮明な発色性を示すとともに、同色値Ａが０．８７で、表面側に配されたＰＥＴ糸１で形成された面と裏面側に顕れたＡＮ糸１で形成された面との同色性に優れたものであった。また、得られた染色交編編地は、表面側がＰＥＴ糸１に基づくソフトな風合いで滑り性に優れ、裏面側が裏面に顕れたＡＮ糸２に基づく膨らみ感、軽量感を有するものであった。
Example 4
In Example 2, a knitted fabric was knitted in the same manner as in Example 2 except that the knitting structure was replaced with the reversible sheet knitting structure shown in FIG. The raw fabric of the obtained knitted fabric was mainly arranged with PET yarn 1 on the front side and AN yarn 2 on the back side. The mixing rate of PET yarn 1 was 69% and the mixing rate of AN yarn 2 was 31%. This raw machine is refined by a conventional method, and then dyed blue in the same bath for 30 minutes at a normal temperature of 100 ° C. using a cationic dye (Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd., manufactured by Nissei Kasei Co., Ltd.) with a cationic group not blocked. Thereafter, a finished width of 140 cm, 32 wale / inch, 46 course / inch, and a basis weight of 182 g / m 2 were finished to prepare a dyed knitted knitted fabric. The obtained dyed and knitted knitted fabric has a clear color developability, and has the same color value A of 0.87, and the AN yarn 1 revealed on the surface and the back surface formed of the PET yarn 1 arranged on the front surface side. It was excellent in the same color property as the surface formed by. Further, the obtained dyed knitted knitted fabric had a soft texture based on the PET yarn 1 and excellent slipperiness, and had a feeling of swelling and lightness based on the AN yarn 2 which appeared on the back side. .
本発明の染色交編編地は、アクリル繊維のカチオン染料可染性に近似のカチオン可染性のポリエステル繊維糸とアクリル繊維糸との交編編地を、特定のカチオン染料を用いた同浴染めにより、同色性に優れた染色交編編地を提供することができ、鮮明な発色性を示すとともに、交編編地、特に編地を表面側にカチオン染料可染性のポリエステル繊維糸を配し、裏面側にアクリル繊維糸を顕出させて配したリバーシブル編地としたときには、表面側の裏面側とでの面の同色性に優れ、また表面側がソフトな風合いで滑り性に優れ、膨らみ感があり、裏面側が膨らみ感、軽量感を有するものであり、本発明によれば高級衣料として有用な素材を提供しえるものである。 The dyed and knitted knitted fabric of the present invention is prepared by using a specific cationic dye and a knitted knitted fabric of a cation dyeable polyester fiber yarn and an acrylic fiber yarn similar to the cationic dye dyeable property of an acrylic fiber in the same bath. By dyeing, it is possible to provide a dyed and knitted knitted fabric excellent in the same color, exhibiting clear color development, and a polyester dyeable yarn that is dyeable with a cationic dye on the surface side of the knitted knitted fabric, especially the knitted fabric When the reversible knitted fabric is arranged with the acrylic fiber yarn exposed on the back side, the surface has the same color on the back side, and the surface side has a soft texture and excellent slipperiness. There is a feeling of swelling, and the back side has a feeling of swelling and lightness, and according to the present invention, a material useful as high-grade clothing can be provided.
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| JPS5813739A (en) * | 1981-07-14 | 1983-01-26 | 旭化成株式会社 | Polyester fiber and acrylic fiber blended knitted fabric |
| JPS61138781A (en) * | 1984-12-04 | 1986-06-26 | 旭化成株式会社 | Production of improved blended product |
| JPS61239015A (en) * | 1985-04-11 | 1986-10-24 | Mitsubishi Rayon Co Ltd | Modified polyester fiber |
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